Hello, I need your help.
I send my car to repaired, and when I received the car the radio was broken.
They said that turning on the battery they turned the polarity, and I opened the radio and had a burned component.
Needed to identify the component that is missing in L1.
Can someone confirm by an equal radio please?
Or someone know where I can get the scheme of this radio?
Thanks for all the help you can give me.
It looks like its a Klyde unit, it should say on the board. Whay dont you get a new component and replace it ?
typos1 said:
It looks like its a Klyde unit, it should say on the board. Whay dont you get a new component and replace it ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi typos1, yes it's a Klyde unit. But I do not know what component's value / reference, so I was asking for help to see if someone was telling me by an equal mainboard, what's the component's value / reference.
SPACSYSTEM said:
Hi typos1, yes it's a Klyde unit. But I do not know what component's value / reference, so I was asking for help to see if someone was telling me by an equal mainboard, what's the component's value / reference.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a later rev of that board (KD-HCT-MB 2015/07/18 Rev-3.1) and it is somewhat different in that area. In fact there is no L1 on my board. L1 is most certainly an inductor, and it is also most likely there just to filter out high frequency noise. If so the value is probably not critically important -- any inductance value would be better than none. And at least to test, you might be able to get it to work with nothing more than a jumper across the pads.
As for schematic diagrams, I think your only choice is to draw it yourself. Use an ohmmeter to beep out the traces from L1 and then draw out the surrounding circuit diagram from that. Yes it is slow and tedious, but it would help tell us what the inductor's purpose is.
dhmsjs said:
I have a later rev of that board (KD-HCT-MB 2015/07/18 Rev-3.1) and it is somewhat different in that area. In fact there is no L1 on my board. L1 is most certainly an inductor, and it is also most likely there just to filter out high frequency noise. If so the value is probably not critically important -- any inductance value would be better than none. And at least to test, you might be able to get it to work with nothing more than a jumper across the pads.
As for schematic diagrams, I think your only choice is to draw it yourself. Use an ohmmeter to beep out the traces from L1 and then draw out the surrounding circuit diagram from that. Yes it is slow and tedious, but it would help tell us what the inductor's purpose is.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks dhmsjs,
Okay, I'll try to draw the circuit and then post it here so you can help me.
Thank you very much for all the support and help.
Thanks,
SPAC
Related
Hi,
The impedence matching resistor that is last in the chain to the antenna pad on my Falcon's mainboard has been knocked off. I am looking for either a schematic or a broken board so that i can work out what part it is. It is a surface mount sized part and my best guess is that its a resistor for impedence matching, I could be wrong though.
Does anyone know how I could get this info? The repair people say they only replace the board, and they have no boards. I am getting desparate enough that i am also interested in a similiar part from any other HTC cdma product..
Hope someone here knows this kind of thing...
Thanks
Josh
quick diagram
The resistor Value
I have measured the last resistor in the chain and got an in circuit value of 0.7 ohms, I would say that the true value is 0.75 ohms as my meter only goes down to xxx.x on this range and 75 is one of the preferred values. I will get a photo of the board when I get a chance at work to confirm we are both talking about the same component. Just to let you know there are some empty pads in that area.
Does your Falcon have a SIM card slot as mine is a NZ telecom model with no SIM card slot the phone number coded into the firmware.
Hope this helps,
Dave
Thanks so much, yes my Falcon is the same as yours, a NZ telecom version. I'm pretty sure we are talking about the same part as i also saw the other empty pads. Im going to go have a look to see whether we have an equivalent part in the factory i work in. hopefully it'll work, if not i wont blame ya.
I notice your signature highlights the builtin gps in the falcon. have you ever found any use for it? i sort of assumed it was useless (at least here in NZ)..
Cheers,
Josh Neal
GPS and photo
I believe the GPS is for emergency use that is it is for the rescue services to get a fix on your location.
Good luck and let me know how you get on, if you can’t get it sorted I will sell my Falcon as it is not being used by me and of course being in the UK I can’t make use of the phone function.
I have also included a picture of the resistor in question.
Here it is!
Things we now know for sure.
1. It Does not have BT.
2. It uses SPDIF out of the middle pin.
3. It has a TOSLINK 3.5mm connector for line out/ digital optical audio out.
4. It uses a PULSUS PSM702 chip and a COREDRIVER GC89C510A0 microcontroller
buy it?
now does anybody knows where i can buy the piece in picture number 3??
lionheart7282 said:
now does anybody knows where i can buy the piece in picture number 3??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That would make this DIY even better!
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1493797
Looks like that chip connected to the pogo dock is a coreriver SC.
http://www.coreriver.com/product-lines/top_CORERIVERmcu.html
I can make out GC89C??? so probably a midas 2.2 or 2.4 programmable microprocessor.
Looks like we will need to follow the lead from here to get a dock working properly.
Hey, Could you send me some higher resolution pictures of the board? I am specifically interested in the small chip near were the pogo pin cable gets attached to the main board. Or the numbers off of it would be good
Also, do you have access to an oscilloscope or logic analyzer? I have been trying to get a dock to play with myself, but it is taking some time
silverchris said:
Hey, Could you send me some higher resolution pictures of the board? I am specifically interested in the small chip near were the pogo pin cable gets attached to the main board. Or the numbers off of it would be good
Also, do you have access to an oscilloscope or logic analyzer? I have been trying to get a dock to play with myself, but it is taking some time
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried reading the all thee numbers off it but it is obscured by what looks like a black marker dot. All I can read is GC89C5, I believe there are at least 3 more numbers/letters.
I do not have access to either an oscilloscope or logic analyzer.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using XDA
EDIT: After a closer look and some better lighting we have a GC89C510A0
Sorry, I meant the one near the mark "U9" above VBUS +5V
silverchris said:
Sorry, I meant the one near the mark "U9" above VBUS +5V
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It reads 0524P, Looks like a ESD chip.
If any of you actually make one of the diy versions you should sell them since i won't buy samsungs way to overpriced
for me, by me and I love you
Hello, I recently purchased (from Asus) and installed a replacement LCD + digitizer on my N7. It went together easier than expected and I was happy with the results until I noticed that while multi-touching the screen it wigs out a bit. I cannot play Minecraft PE and move and look around at the same time for example. I cannot zoom in or out on pics without the picture jumping around like in a seizure like state for another example. Any ideas? I don't want to have to open it again but I will do what is necessary to fix this issue.
Thank you.
Asus don't sell parts to consumers so I don't know where you got it. Sounds like the part is faulty but check everything's connected properly and no damage to any of the flex ribbons.
DrFredPhD said:
Asus don't sell parts to consumers so I don't know where you got it. Sounds like the part is faulty but check everything's connected properly and no damage to any of the flex ribbons.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sold by Asus through Amazon. If I had enough posts to send the link I would but due to rules I cannot.
ElatedSacrifice said:
Sold by Asus through Amazon. If I had enough posts to send the link I would but due to rules I cannot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Im not exactly saying your mistaken. I just question why asus would need to use amazon to sell parts? I have bought plenty of screens from amazon. One thing that is relatively certain, aftermarket parts. That doesn't mean bad in most cases just not oem. There is a touchscreen fix in either general or this Q&a. You may want to give that a try.
ElatedSacrifice said:
It went together easier than expected
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe it only looked like easy and something went wrong when assembling it by yourself.
I am willing to admit that I did something wrong I've got a friend who is more experienced at these things who is going to take a look. As far as the screen goes the seller was marked as Asus. Thanks for all the insight so far I looked up more dead spot issues with the N7 and it seems like I'm not the only one.
have you seen this? http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2535835 or this http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2428133. hope you get it settled!
jblaze10 said:
have you seen this? http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2535835 or this http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2428133. hope you get it settled!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! I will try this later today and hopefully it works.
after reading the article I am sure the ribbon cable connection is my issue but does anyone think thermal paste would be a decent adhesive for the cable connection?
ElatedSacrifice said:
after reading the article I am sure the ribbon cable connection is my issue but does anyone think thermal paste would be a decent adhesive for the cable connection?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How does thermal paste make an adhesive? And why do you need that for a cable connection? A thermal paste transfers heat from one surface to another. A cable connection generates no heat. Also, some thermal pastes conduct current. If you smear an amount of such stuff on the connector, you might cause the pins to short. 'm confused.
graphdarnell said:
How does thermal paste make an adhesive? And why do you need that for a cable connection? A thermal paste transfers heat from one surface to another. A cable connection generates no heat. Also, some thermal pastes conduct current. If you smear an amount of such stuff on the connector, you might cause the pins to short. 'm confused.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What I'm Looking for is an adhesive for the ribbon cable connevtion . one of the articles above explains the dead spot issue I am having. Sorry for the dumb question I don't have a lot of experience working inside of things like this but I figured the tablet was trash if I couldn't fix it anyways so I might as well give it shot for the experience.
Hi,
My unit has a built in Mic, (little hole on the front).
It sounds like I'm underwater, I've seen a post about cutting capacitors which is beyond my skills.
Is it worth buying an external mic, and wiring it in, assuming there is a port at the back. Or will the result be the same as its all in the circuitry?
Thanks.
As long as you don't make the mod your mic is still going to sound bad. The external mic
is normally in parallel with the built in. One of things you do during the modification is to
separate the internal from the external, hence the removal of the capacitor/Short. Take it to a shop and modify it.
Is it the case in 100% of the KGL HUs? I have a newer Erisin HU and have no C32 on Board so I was a little bit confused if in my case both Microphones run parallelly.
halloj said:
As long as you don't make the mod your mic is still going to sound bad. The external mic
is normally in parallel with the built in. One of things you do during the modification is to
separate the internal from the external, hence the removal of the capacitor/Short. Take it to a shop and modify it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ChrisKay1988 said:
Is it the case in 100% of the KGL HUs? I have a newer Erisin HU and have no C32 on Board so I was a little bit confused if in my case both Microphones run parallelly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Since you didn't tell the brand I just went for the symptom. Do you have the same BT-board as in the picture
from the modification thread. It might be another SMD-component in your case. Sometimes it's a capacitor,
sometimes a 0 Ohm resistor.
halloj said:
Since you didn't tell the brand I just went for the symptom. Do you have the same BT-board as in the picture
from the modification thread. It might be another SMD-component in your case. Sometimes it's a capacitor,
sometimes a 0 Ohm resistor.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Brand is Erisin ES 2698V - so a KGL unit. My BT Boards looks similar like that in the picture but differs in the C32 capacitor and in descriptions (I have no descriptions like MIC+ and so on on the Pins). The HU is actually built in my car so I cannot take a pic for you - sorry.
ChrisKay1988 said:
The Brand is Erisin ES 2698V - so a KGL unit. My BT Boards looks similar like that in the picture but differs in the C32 capacitor and in descriptions (I have no descriptions like MIC+ and so on on the Pins). The HU is actually built in my car so I cannot take a pic for you - sorry.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When you pull it out, beep it from the same pin as in the picture of the BT board. That way you will find
your component, being a cap, short or a = Ohm resistor.
hey,
okay I'll try it. Can you please quote the picture in this thread? I can't find it anymore
Edit: FOUND IT: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=55769802&postcount=3964
halloj said:
When you pull it out, beep it from the same pin as in the picture of the BT board. That way you will find
your component, being a cap, short or a = Ohm resistor.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
halloj said:
When you pull it out, beep it from the same pin as in the picture of the BT board. That way you will find
your component, being a cap, short or a = Ohm resistor.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, okay I just disassembled my HU and beeped some components.
I found it finally:
It's C102! the one side beeps at Pin 4 of BT-Module, the other side beeps on microphone "SGN"
I will remove this and bridge the mic with a wire... thanks a lot!
ChrisKay1988 said:
Hey, okay I just disassembled my HU and beeped some components.
I found it finally:
It's C102! the one side beeps at Pin 4 of BT-Module, the other side beeps on microphone "SGN"
I will remove this and bridge the mic with a wire... thanks a lot!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good. Write it down in the BT-thread, your HU brand and the cap-number for others to find it easy. :laugh:
Hello Everyone
I've a head unit from Autopumpkin: MTCC-KLD6-V2.91 RK3188 Android 5.1.1, and I'm really happy with this head unit.
No crashes and also no hangups that suck your battery empty over night (i had this many times with other, first headunit).
So I'm actually try to make a CAN->HU converter for the steering wheel buttons.
I've my ATmega microcontroller at the moment in the state where he is able to decode the can-signal of my car and filter the steering wheel buttons out.
So, now I'm on the interface between microcontroller and head unit.
I try to do that with a digital potentiometer like MCP413X so that I can digitally setup different resistor values.
Now my question:
Does someone know the resistor values that are usable for this or the space between certain values?
Is there a standard for that?
Thank you in advance
Regards
Remo
Just buy the canbus adapter and call it a day
Hello w0ng3r
w0ng3r said:
Just buy the canbus adapter and call it a day
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your constructive reply.
Do you even have a name?
If we would always buy everything that already exists, we would still be sitting in the forest with the fig leaf.
Regards
Remo
No shame in taking the easy way out, you obviously lack the technical skills. No need to be butt hurt.