Develop Bugs

Microphone Question

Hi,
My unit has a built in Mic, (little hole on the front).
It sounds like I'm underwater, I've seen a post about cutting capacitors which is beyond my skills.
Is it worth buying an external mic, and wiring it in, assuming there is a port at the back. Or will the result be the same as its all in the circuitry?
Thanks.

As long as you don't make the mod your mic is still going to sound bad. The external mic
is normally in parallel with the built in. One of things you do during the modification is to
separate the internal from the external, hence the removal of the capacitor/Short. Take it to a shop and modify it.

Is it the case in 100% of the KGL HUs? I have a newer Erisin HU and have no C32 on Board so I was a little bit confused if in my case both Microphones run parallelly.
halloj said:
As long as you don't make the mod your mic is still going to sound bad. The external mic
is normally in parallel with the built in. One of things you do during the modification is to
separate the internal from the external, hence the removal of the capacitor/Short. Take it to a shop and modify it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

ChrisKay1988 said:
Is it the case in 100% of the KGL HUs? I have a newer Erisin HU and have no C32 on Board so I was a little bit confused if in my case both Microphones run parallelly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Since you didn't tell the brand I just went for the symptom. Do you have the same BT-board as in the picture
from the modification thread. It might be another SMD-component in your case. Sometimes it's a capacitor,
sometimes a 0 Ohm resistor.

halloj said:
Since you didn't tell the brand I just went for the symptom. Do you have the same BT-board as in the picture
from the modification thread. It might be another SMD-component in your case. Sometimes it's a capacitor,
sometimes a 0 Ohm resistor.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Brand is Erisin ES 2698V - so a KGL unit. My BT Boards looks similar like that in the picture but differs in the C32 capacitor and in descriptions (I have no descriptions like MIC+ and so on on the Pins). The HU is actually built in my car so I cannot take a pic for you - sorry.

ChrisKay1988 said:
The Brand is Erisin ES 2698V - so a KGL unit. My BT Boards looks similar like that in the picture but differs in the C32 capacitor and in descriptions (I have no descriptions like MIC+ and so on on the Pins). The HU is actually built in my car so I cannot take a pic for you - sorry.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When you pull it out, beep it from the same pin as in the picture of the BT board. That way you will find
your component, being a cap, short or a = Ohm resistor.

hey,
okay I'll try it. Can you please quote the picture in this thread? I can't find it anymore
Edit: FOUND IT: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=55769802&postcount=3964
halloj said:
When you pull it out, beep it from the same pin as in the picture of the BT board. That way you will find
your component, being a cap, short or a = Ohm resistor.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

halloj said:
When you pull it out, beep it from the same pin as in the picture of the BT board. That way you will find
your component, being a cap, short or a = Ohm resistor.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, okay I just disassembled my HU and beeped some components.
I found it finally:
It's C102! the one side beeps at Pin 4 of BT-Module, the other side beeps on microphone "SGN"
I will remove this and bridge the mic with a wire... thanks a lot!

ChrisKay1988 said:
Hey, okay I just disassembled my HU and beeped some components.
I found it finally:
It's C102! the one side beeps at Pin 4 of BT-Module, the other side beeps on microphone "SGN"
I will remove this and bridge the mic with a wire... thanks a lot!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good. Write it down in the BT-thread, your HU brand and the cap-number for others to find it easy. :laugh:

Windows CE double din headunit

Hi there
Got one of these units, mainly the ouku one.
it has key+ and key- steering wires, does anyone know if an autoleads patch cable can drive this?
I drive a ford focus 2003 mk1 facelift. already got an autoleads steering interface I used for my previous headunit, if there was a patchlead available then it would sure make life easier.
I read somewhere that these units can react to pioneer or panasonic patch leads. This true? makes sense since it works on voltage drops.
any help greatly appreciated.

No worries! worked it out.
Anyone who drives a ford of my year either in the US or UK. then basically the steering remote has 3 wires from it, one is speed control and not needed (green/white), the other two are the switches. simply wire up these two to key1 (key+) and ground. and you should be set. Thankfully these are just analogue switches, and will work out the box.

Anyone with a dead px3 who can locate the SPDIF pin? (Expose the Balls)

Hi, I recently installed an MTCD px3 unit in my car but the audio quality is not that great. I'm looking at the option of a USB DAC but that appears to have its own set of issues and complexity.
I do note though that the RK3188 chip includes an SPDIF function and this does appear as an audio device in /proc/asound/cards so if the pins (balls) are exposed somewhere on the px3 module board then it should be just a matter of soldering to the right points to create an SPDIF interface.
If someone has a totally bricked unit would you consider doing some research? I.e. using some heat to the remove the RK3188 BGA chip and locating the ball that relates to SPDIF and seeing if it can be traced to a track?
The SPDIF transmitter is located at ball N20. You can find the datasheet by googling "RK3188 Datasheet" (sorry I can't post links yet). So who can "expose the balls"?
Alternatively if someone has a dead board/unit they would give away, I'd be happy to pay shipping for you to send it to me (in New Zealand) and I'll do the research and share my findings with the community.
Also looking for someone who understands what would be required on the software side of things to actually use the interface. Some kind of ALSA magic I guess?
Note - I do understand the limitation. I.e. this only applies to audio within Android, not the radio or bluetooth etc. My approach would be to install a physical switch so I could switch my car amp between the analog and digital outputs.

mcraenz said:
Hi, I recently installed an MTCD px3 unit in my car but the audio quality is not that great. I'm looking at the option of a USB DAC but that appears to have its own set of issues and complexity.
I do note though that the RK3188 chip includes an SPDIF function and this does appear as an audio device in /proc/asound/cards so if the pins (balls) are exposed somewhere on the px3 module board then it should be just a matter of soldering to the right points to create an SPDIF interface.
If someone has a totally bricked unit would you consider doing some research? I.e. using some heat to the remove the RK3188 BGA chip and locating the ball that relates to SPDIF and seeing if it can be traced to a track?
The SPDIF transmitter is located at ball N20. You can find the datasheet by googling "RK3188 Datasheet" (sorry I can't post links yet). So who can "expose the balls"?
Alternatively if someone has a dead board/unit they would give away, I'd be happy to pay shipping for you to send it to me (in New Zealand) and I'll do the research and share my findings with the community.
Also looking for someone who understands what would be required on the software side of things to actually use the interface. Some kind of ALSA magic I guess?
Note - I do understand the limitation. I.e. this only applies to audio within Android, not the radio or bluetooth etc. My approach would be to install a physical switch so I could switch my car amp between the analog and digital outputs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi.. my Android Radio just recently crashed. If you like.. i can give it to you.
Its a Hot Audio Android Radio PX3 RK3188.

Thanks very much. I've sent a PM.
Cheers,
Rhys

do you located SPDIF transmitter? Is possibile to connect directly an external DSP such Audison P8.9?

Bump

Would like to better understand canbus integration, please help educate me

I've searched and searched but only find bits and pieces of information. So far, I haven't been able to connect enough dots to understand how this works.
Back in 2016 I purchased an Android head unit from Auto Pumpkin. I stumbled upon it by pure accident, thought it looked slick, and decided give it a shot. The radio body was Chevrolet specific so it popped right into my Express van. It also came with a canbus decoder box which I didn't know anything about but hooked up anyway and was impressed by the integration. Door status, reverse overlays, brightness control, and some other cool stuff.
Fast forward to last year, I bought another head unit for a new Chevy van but I couldn't find one that came with the canbus integration so it's installed as a standalone radio. The unit has the canbus pins on the back, but the corresponding wire harness didn't have any conductors to match up with them. It also didn't come with any type of canbus decoder. The config area in Factory Settings is still there, though.
That brings me to my first question: Are the pins on units like these still ready/capable to be connected to *something* even though the wire harnesses that come with them don't have the specific wires for it? What I'm asking is, if I purchase a Chevrolet canbus decoder separately, can I hook it up (adding the required wires) and expect it to work?
Lastly, I recently purchased yet another head unit, this time from Dasita, for my RV. It's built on a Ford chassis. Same as before, the radio has the pins (and they're labeled as canbus!), but the wire harness doesn't have wires connected to those pins.
Is there a Ford canbus decoder available somewhere, and, with some tinkering, is it possible to get the vehicle to talk to the head unit?

nomaxtech said:
Is there a Ford canbus decoder available somewhere, and, with some tinkering, is it possible to get the vehicle to talk to the head unit?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup, just make sure you order the right one for your head unit.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000875414226.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.2d785d7aDFgDYy&algo_pvid=8d9f7a38-3a25-48c1-8c5b-a0f1372ec0d7&algo_expid=8d9f7a38-3a25-48c1-8c5b-a0f1372ec0d7-3&btsid=0b0a556e16134130756217144e212d&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

Mercedes ml350 (2006) with Harmon Kardin. All working but Steering wheel and CANBUS connection.

I just purchased a very cheap chinese android head unit from walmart.com (The price seems to have dropped even further, if it's the same one) and have it all installed in my ML350. I purchased, separately, an Optical Decoder box and have it also installed. I'm getting audio just fine (although of course it's just dropped to left and right..lost my full surround) but my steering wheel controls aren't working, nor is the CANBUS seeming to work. It's got a "Oudi" branded canbus decoder (Or at least the box is printed as one).
I don't see any Key1 or Key2, SWC or similar wires. The head unit is advertised as working with Steering wheel controls and canbus functions. From what I've read thus far, it's supposed to be able to communicate with canbus as is. It has 2 very long wires, Can-H and Can-L in addition to the ones that plugged into the harness..I don't think I had to do anything with them but I did see where someoene else having the same type ran them under the glove box to the long caterpillar like connection bar for Can-H and Can-L within the system. That didn't make any difference. I see some harnesses have a 2.5mm stereo jack to plug into the head unit also for steering controls but this doesn't have that etiher. Most seem to say that since the unit has steering learning that it all works through the canbus.
I've checked all pinouts and from what I can tell I've got them all correct. The can l and h were in wrong spots when I got it but got that fixed and at least the stereo is working.
Radio reception is less than spectacular, but it works. The stereo came with the adapter for that. My vehicle of course has that antenna amp on the back hatch under the window..always worked before. Also curious why this signal gets so back with that simple antenna adapter?
Anyhow, I'm overall happy with the unit (a bit slow at times, being a 1Gx16G model bug but handling that)
I've been in communication with the seller who keeps asking for videos, pics, and now wants me to purchase a new canbus at "any parts store" locally to try and they'll reimburse me. I dont' see anywhere that you can buy a canbus decoder anywhere locally.
I have such a hard time finding anyone with the same radio/wiring harness and this vehicle and can't understand why I'm having such issues with the installation SEEMS so simple. Yes I've gone into Protocol Settings in System settings and set to the "oudi" decoder. It only has 2 options. Mercedes-Smart, and Mercedes Fully Compatible. Neither works. It saves, doesn't require restart but I've tried rebooting as well. Even shutting off car when the radio is rebooting and starting it all together again.
Has anyone had any luck like choosing a different CANBUS? Like is it even worth going through them all? Surely the oudi box doesnt' have different hardware inside that might still work, but not be "oudi"?
I check data, etc I just get "no original vehicle setting function"

Did you ask the corresponding sellers about the matched CANBUS when you buy the android head unit? I've also been through this before, I purechased an aftermarket headunit from a Chinese brand called ATOTO, and I purchased their headunit for its affordable price, everything worked great, good connection to my phone, huge 10.1 inch screen display and good sound quality except the SWC interface. I have triple checked the connections and have tried two different Canbus interfaces that I have, and have tried both the key wires and the 3.5mm jack, the SWC interface simply doesn't work.
Then I contacted their support team and they also told me to buy a new canbus, and they told me to search on http://www.metraonline.com and https://pac-audio.com/, finally I got a new canbus and problem solved.
Hope this may help.

I have .. but they've been just.. run around after run around .asking for videos, pictures, wiring diagrams... Finally they say that it doesn't communicate with the Mercedes I this model....but ..it literally is custom bezeled for my model..comes with canbus decoder...states in the title of the item on walmart.com as for my particular video and that it keeps original steering wheel button function and all other factory features and canbus connection. So they're just lying to keep from having to send another canbus. Now just telling me to pack it up nicely and ship it back within 24 hours with tracking number to get refund. Heh.ill definitely check out your links tho! Thank you!

skybase said:
I have .. but they've been just.. run around after run around .asking for videos, pictures, wiring diagrams... Finally they say that it doesn't communicate with the Mercedes I this model....but ..it literally is custom bezeled for my model..comes with canbus decoder...states in the title of the item on walmart.com as for my particular video and that it keeps original steering wheel button function and all other factory features and canbus connection. So they're just lying to keep from having to send another canbus. Now just telling me to pack it up nicely and ship it back within 24 hours with tracking number to get refund. Heh.ill definitely check out your links tho! Thank you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm sorry for that bro! If the headunit you bought is an universal one then it should be compatible with most of the cars. Good luck and wish you can get this thing fixed soon!

WhiteSky0719 said:
I'm sorry for that bro! If the headunit you bought is an universal one then it should be compatible with most of the cars. Good luck and wish you can get this thing fixed soon!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I find a kit (Best Buy has the same one I see, but it'll cost me $400 (at best buy) or over $600 on this site...for a $100 radio..damn..... haha weird thing though is that I don't think I have any SWC wires or 2.5mm jack or anything like that on the radio. Supposedly it worked through the Canbus...but...these kits all have that separate box as well. So....solution$$$ haha Thank you for this site though. It definitely reinforced for me the kit that I'm just gonna have to get. Plus side, I need this kit for ANY stereo I put in. Regardless if Android, no name or brand name standard deck.

skybase said:
I find a kit (Best Buy has the same one I see, but it'll cost me $400 (at best buy) or over $600 on this site...for a $100 radio..damn..... haha weird thing though is that I don't think I have any SWC wires or 2.5mm jack or anything like that on the radio. Supposedly it worked through the Canbus...but...these kits all have that separate box as well. So....solution$$$ haha Thank you for this site though. It definitely reinforced for me the kit that I'm just gonna have to get. Plus side, I need this kit for ANY stereo I put in. Regardless if Android, no name or brand name standard deck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh.... that's.... well you can also go check eBay, cheaper than most of shopping site, forget about the cheap **** it provides, the kits and hrness there should be cheaper. $400 is too much for a kit... If next time you need to upgrade another headunit, except Pioneer, Kenwood,etc. you can definitely go and try the brand atoto, although it is also a Chinese brand, happy with their serivice for now. Don't give up so soon bro! Try eBay again for the kits, lol.