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Wilson electronics makes an adapter that will plug into the external antenna jack under the back cover. I tried it, and it worked great... until I disconnected it. Then the internal antenna would no longer work. It's like the act of plugging it in destroyed the phone's ability to use its internal antenna. It would work when I reconnected the external antenna, but when I disconnected it, the phone would only get any signal strength when I was right under a cell tower.
Anyone else try one of their adapters with the Captivate? If so, what were the results?
-nfs
Sent from wherever I was when I sent it.
I had no idea that input jack was there until you said anything. What happens if you switch airplane mode on and off after the disconnect of the adapter?
nappent said:
I had no idea that input jack was there until you said anything. What happens if you switch airplane mode on and off after the disconnect of the adapter?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't remember if I tried it, but it was restarted many times. I would think that power cycling the phone would have essentially the same effect.
Sent from wherever I was when I sent it.
I saw this but never had the courage to try it. Did you pull the battery and try the 3 button fix?
photo please?
This should clarify things
TommyZee said:
photo please?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's the round gold connector at the bottom right of the SIM card. The adapter (FME on the other end) is available here:
http://www.wpsantennas.com/359919-samsung-captivate-galaxy-s-antenna-adapter-cable.aspx
After one BAD experience, I'm not eager to try again. I was sort of hoping that my experience was a fluke and that other people had been more successful.
Why?
capnoob said:
I saw this but never had the courage to try it. Did you pull the battery and try the 3 button fix?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Never occurred to me to do that, since the phone booted and it would work when very near a cell tower.
This struck me as either a defect in manufacture, or a design flaw... either in the phone or in the connector. I suspect it was mechanical in nature, and that once the act of connecting the adapter disconnected the internal antenna, something caused it to stay disconnected.
I wonder if this might have happened?
Read the part under "How To Know If a Cellular Yagi Will Work With Your Phone"
http://www.ehelpfultips.com/how_to_use_cell_phone_yagi_direc.htm
capn1 said:
I wonder if this might have happened?
Read the part under "How To Know If a Cellular Yagi Will Work With Your Phone"
http://www.ehelpfultips.com/how_to_use_cell_phone_yagi_direc.htm
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello,
I was using a dual band antenna without an amplifier, so there should not have been too much SWR. I've used this antenna for years with another phone AND an amplifier without problems.
The evidence clearly indicates that phone's transmitter was not burned out due to too much SWR or anything else, because it would still work just fine when reconnected to the external antenna. Ditto for the phone's receiver section; it worked fine whenever it was connected to the external antenna. Once connected, thereafter the signal bars went to zero when it was disconnected. Also, as I mentioned, the phone would still function normally, if I was VERY near a cell tower.
The only conclusion I can make is that the connector was designed to disconnect the internal antenna when an external antenna is connected. Somehow the connector or the electronics failed to ever reconnect it when the external was disconnected.
Sent from wherever I was when I sent it.
try reflashing a modem
It's NOT a firmware problem
I know you guys are trying to help, but it's not a firmware problem. It's a hardware problem. I was just trying to see if anyone else had a similar experience. I just talked with Wilson Electronics, and the guy I spoke with acknowledged that the connector or board can be damaged on the Captivate. He also volunteered that they don't recommend direct connection with that phone. Well, that's kind of odd, since I only learned of the connector by calling them up and asking which one to use with the phone.
Even though I did not buy the adapters from them, I bought them on the recommendation of one of their people, so I have contacted them to get my money back. We'll see; they haven't responded officially yet. I suppose I can contact the vendor, but they were not the ones who told me it would work...
They have another way to inductively connect the phone. The only problem is that my old amplifier won't work for that. I'll have to get a model 801201 instead of my old 812201 which will run another $250 or so, with a cradle and/or velcro attached inductive connector.
comdei said:
try reflashing a modem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well guess what!!?? You are in luck!!!
Theres something you can do with hardware problems..
CALL SAMSUNG
your phone is under 1 year old. you have a warranty. call them. flash to stock . and get it replaced then
Why don't you try reflashing the modem or rom? People are offering you solutions and you seem stuck on it being a hardware issue. A rom or modem re-flash takes a few mins of your time. Not to start anything but I do support for a living and it bugs the hell out of me when people jump the gun and won't try other solutions.
I am stuck on the evidence as to what the nature of the problem is. Did you read what I posted previously?
Let me tell you a little more. At the time I had the problem, the phone was still on the factory firmware. The phone had never been flashed.
All the available evidence points to a hardware problem. The fact that the phone worked when in close proximity to a cell tower, that as soon as there was any distance between the tower and the phone there were no signal bars, but if I plugged the external antenna in there was immediately good signal...the fact that the connector manufacturer has admitted that their adapter could damage the board... I don't mean to be unapreciative, but I do support, too (a well a writing the software itself), and I've learned to really think about the available information when trying to deduce the nature of a problem, and it seems to me that you are stuck on a conclusion that the evidence doesn't support.
Besides, I am not looking for help here. As I wrote previously, I was trying to find out if anyone has had a similar experience. If my experience was a fluke, then I would have been willing to try connecting the replacement phone. See, the problem has been solved, but I don't want to have it again.
Now that the manufacturer has admitted that their connector could damage the board, I have decided to get a different type of amplifier which allows an inductive connection. That should prevent further problems of this nature. It's an expensive solution, but an antenna with a bi-directional amp is really useful when you are in a remote area with a faint signal. When the signal is too weak for that, it's time to use the ham radio... but that's another topic, and yes, I have been known to take my jeep off road... way way off the road.
nappent said:
Why don't you try reflashing the modem or rom? People are offering you solutions and you seem stuck on it being a hardware issue. A rom or modem re-flash takes a few mins of your time. Not to start anything but I do support for a living and it bugs the hell out of me when people jump the gun and won't try other solutions.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sent from wherever I was when I sent it.
nfs_phone said:
Now that the manufacturer has admitted that their connector could damage the board, I have decided to get a different type of amplifier which allows an inductive connection. That should prevent further problems of this nature. It's an expensive solution, but an antenna with a bi-directional amp is really useful when you are in a remote area with a faint signal. When the signal is too weak for that, it's time to use the ham radio... but that's another topic, and yes, I have been known to take my jeep off road... way way off the road.
.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So samsung admitted it is a known problem? Are you sending it in for warranty then?
Trusselo said:
So samsung admitted it is a known problem? Are you sending it in for warranty then?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was referring to the manufacturer of the adapter, not the phone. Samsung was made aware of the problem when I was trouble-shooting the problem. The tech I was talking to blamed the problem on me for using third party accessories not authorized by Samsung. However, since I had been acting in good faith, he did authorize my sending the phone in for warranty repair. I don't know if they can be counted upon to always do that.
I am left wondering how often this problem happens. I used the antenna connector on the back of my Motorola V3xx thousands of times with no issues. It seems really odd to have just connected the Cappy once and suffered such a problem. One key difference is that I don't think that the V3xx disconnected the internal antenna when you connect the external one.
Sent from wherever I was when I sent it.
I've seen similar behavior when one of my foster kids mistook the antenna for a screw while disassembling a blackberry.
The antenna jack is a "normalizing " jack in that when you plug something in a circuit is disconnected and when you unplug it restores the circuit.
if there was a problem with the adapter and it applied too much pressure to the middle pin then it may not have normalized and you would only get signal if you sat under a tower.
This is exactly what happened with the poor blackberry.
Glad to hear Sammy is covering it with warranty, other wise you would have been the proud owner of the only door wedge that plays angry birds.
Sent from my GT-I9000 using XDA App
Interesting. Not sure I understand what you mean by normalizing nor"middle" pin, but it was pretty clear that the internal antenna was no longer connected. Of course the unit was not entirely useless as a phone, but the requirement of having to always have it connected to an external antenna to get it to work did make it a tad cumbersome to use...
pawadca said:
I've seen similar behavior when one of my foster kids mistook the antenna for a screw while disassembling a blackberry.
The antenna jack is a "normalizing " jack in that when you plug something in a circuit is disconnected and when you unplug it restores the circuit.
if there was a problem with the adapter and it applied too much pressure to the middle pin then it may not have normalized and you would only get signal if you sat under a tower.
This is exactly what happened with the poor blackberry.
Glad to hear Sammy is covering it with warranty, other wise you would have been the proud owner of the only door wedge that plays angry birds.
Sent from my GT-I9000 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sent from wherever I was when I sent it.
I'd agree that it's a hardware problem, it may actually be that the internal antenna is burned out. I had a similar problem with the wifi on my old ipod.
I used an aftermarket charger which shorted something inside the device. Consequently, the battery would not hold a charge for longer than 15 minutes AND the it would not recognize a wifi signal, unless I held the ipod within inches of the router. Similar to what you experience with the cell towers, except on a smaller scale.
Good luck.
Burning out the antenna itself would require the kind of amperage generated by a lightning strike. Much more likely that even in your situation some circuitry connecting your antenna to the phone blew out.
In my case there was no overvoltage, just a mechanical connection. I think something just got bent beyond its ability to bend back from... I'm guessing here, but I can see a bar inside the antenna connector. When the center pin of the adapter is pushed into the connector, it will make contact with that bar (the bar is at the side of the opening at 90 degrees to the center pin of the adapter) and pushes it to the side to some extent. I am not sure, but I think that maybe it was pushed a tiny bit too far, and it wasn't able to spring back to its original position. I am assuming that when it is pushed to the side it causes the connection to the internal antenna to be disconnected and that its contact with the center pin of the adapter is the connection to the antenna. I am further concluding that if it doesn't spring back to its original position, that the internal antenna is never reconnected.
jwolfburg said:
I'd agree that it's a hardware problem, it may actually be that the internal antenna is burned out. I had a similar problem with the wifi on my old ipod.
I used an aftermarket charger which shorted something inside the device. Consequently, the battery would not hold a charge for longer than 15 minutes AND the it would not recognize a wifi signal, unless I held the ipod within inches of the router. Similar to what you experience with the cell towers, except on a smaller scale.
Good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sent from wherever I was when I sent it.
Hey everyone,
First time post but I have a question I think others might be interested in as well. I'd like to create a simple method of charging my phone wirelessly in my vehicle but I have a few questions before I make a couple purchases.
1.)Will the LG WCP-300 charge through a galaxy s4 otterbox defender case?
2.) Will the Samsung Wireless Charging Back Cover be able to work with my galaxy s4 otterbox defender case (perhaps with a little pressure applied)? I've seen a post online where a user was able to get it to work. Anybody on XDA try it out?
3.)If I stuck a NFC tag on the LG WCP-300, will wireless charging still work fine? Will NFC work fine?
4.) Will the LG WCP-300 charge my phone if I have it plugged into the Pioneer DEH-X6500BT USB port? I know it may not charge quickly, but what I'm leaning towards is having GPS, bluetooth, NFC and music streaming from spotify while having the battery charge at least not decrease, or have it decrease slower.
5.) Will the NFC tag work through my galaxy s4 otterbox defender case and Samsung Wirless Charging Back Cover?
I've heard of the OwlPad, but the reason I don't want to use that particular setup is because I'm trying to cut down on the amount of cables running in my car (the reason I'm going wireless, and I've got a radar detector already hooked up and don't want to use a cigarette lighter socket adapter to run two gadgets). I know a cigarette lighter socket adapter might be able to charge it quicker, but if the USB port can provide enough power to at least keep the battery from draining while running GPS, bluetooth, NFC and music streaming from spotify, then I prefer that route. I'd also like to stick to the products mentioned since I'm kinda trying to avoid third party products.
Thank's in advance, and looking forward to hear back.
Thought I would add my findings encase anybody else has similar ideas they want to undertake!
1.) I can confirm the LG WCP-300 charges through the Otterbox defender case for my Galaxy S4.
2.)The samsung wireless charging back cover (by samsung for the galaxy s4, no third party) does indeed fit with the otterbox defender case for the galaxy s4. It fit it 100% okay, but you will feel a bit more weight and notice a difference. It feels like more girth, although it locks into place and has not came apart. I will warn that it is a snug fit, so if it doesn't work for you the first time, keep at it. It doesn't bulge, but you just gotta see it to know what im talking about, I'd say give it a shot. I found a half off accessory code online and bought it directly from samsung.
3.) have not tried a NFC chip on the wireless charger yet.
4.)The LG WCP-300 does work with the pioneer USB port. But be warned!! I thought the USB port wasn't going to work (10 foot cable is recommended if you want to run the cable and try hiding it, that's what I did), because the wireless pad didn't work on my first attempt. Gave up, brought it inside to use. The USB cable inside didn't work. I had tested it before, and it did work. Odd.... Turns out, a good amount of the USB cables have to much plastic near the micro USB head which prevent the cable from going into the wireless charger all the way. Shaved some of the plastic on the cable in my car and.....got it to work. Wireless charging working in the vehicle via USB port.
5.)NFC does work through the case. Tried it with a Nexus 7 tablet and communications worked as long as it sat at the sweet spot (which I'm sure is fairly standard).
The next step for me is fallowing the guide to root the phone (thanks XDA community!!) and then fallow a different users guide on xda (Sorry, I'd post links and directly link but I haven't reached the post limit to do so quite yet) to allow unlock the phone via NFC while the phone is locked and the screen is off.
NFC running 24/7-->Place on Wireless charger with NFC chip-->Unlocks phone, sets it to not turn the screen off, turns off wifi, turns on bluetooth and connects to receiver, and starts spotify. Remove phone from NFC and all settings revert back.
Will post back (or create new post?) when it's all accomplished, maybe a video if people are interested??
I'm interested in pictures, sounds like a neat idea.
Knievel_Spirit said:
Thought I would add my findings encase anybody else has similar ideas they want to undertake!
1.) I can confirm the LG WCP-300 charges through the Otterbox defender case for my Galaxy S4.
2.)The samsung wireless charging back cover (by samsung for the galaxy s4, no third party) does indeed fit with the otterbox defender case for the galaxy s4. It fit it 100% okay, but you will feel a bit more weight and notice a difference. It feels like more girth, although it locks into place and has not came apart. I will warn that it is a snug fit, so if it doesn't work for you the first time, keep at it. It doesn't bulge, but you just gotta see it to know what im talking about, I'd say give it a shot. I found a half off accessory code online and bought it directly from samsung.
3.) have not tried a NFC chip on the wireless charger yet.
4.)The LG WCP-300 does work with the pioneer USB port. But be warned!! I thought the USB port wasn't going to work (10 foot cable is recommended if you want to run the cable and try hiding it, that's what I did), because the wireless pad didn't work on my first attempt. Gave up, brought it inside to use. The USB cable inside didn't work. I had tested it before, and it did work. Odd.... Turns out, a good amount of the USB cables have to much plastic near the micro USB head which prevent the cable from going into the wireless charger all the way. Shaved some of the plastic on the cable in my car and.....got it to work. Wireless charging working in the vehicle via USB port.
5.)NFC does work through the case. Tried it with a Nexus 7 tablet and communications worked as long as it sat at the sweet spot (which I'm sure is fairly standard).
The next step for me is fallowing the guide to root the phone (thanks XDA community!!) and then fallow a different users guide on xda (Sorry, I'd post links and directly link but I haven't reached the post limit to do so quite yet) to allow unlock the phone via NFC while the phone is locked and the screen is off.
NFC running 24/7-->Place on Wireless charger with NFC chip-->Unlocks phone, sets it to not turn the screen off, turns off wifi, turns on bluetooth and connects to receiver, and starts spotify. Remove phone from NFC and all settings revert back.
Will post back (or create new post?) when it's all accomplished, maybe a video if people are interested??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The NFC will only read the chip so long as to enable the mode. It does not act as a proximity sensor and will not "revert" back to it's normal operation. Keeping an NFC chip in range the phone will ignore it after it first reads it. You will either need NFC Tasker or some other app to make it a "switching" tag where you can lift your phone off, tap it again to return to normal mode and then go on your way, or another tag stuck somewhere else to trigger going back to normal, maybe perhaps on the car keys?
Yes the post that talks about unlocking the phone has tasker involved with reverting the settings back. On another post it mentions unlocking the phone by keeping NFC on 24/7. The app I'm looking at is NFC Unlocking by MohammadAG, and work also done by Madfish73.
http://www.xda-developers.com/android/unlock-your-phone-using-nfc/
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2122019
I should also mention that I'm trying to follow the directions here (http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2306247) to add home-screen rotation, but as they mention cyanogenmod, I'm not sure if this will work with the stock touchwiz on the galaxy s4....any thoughts?
Ultimate rotation control worked great for my galaxy s1, but the s4 is a little buggy. Nova launcher works great for the homescreen rotation, but the lockscreen rotation is absent in nova launcher. Looking to have both rotate.
Knievel_Spirit said:
Yes the post that talks about unlocking the phone has tasker involved with reverting the settings back. On another post it mentions unlocking the phone by keeping NFC on 24/7. The app I'm looking at is NFC Unlocking by MohammadAG, and work also done by Madfish73.
http://www.xda-developers.com/android/unlock-your-phone-using-nfc/
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2122019
I should also mention that I'm trying to follow the directions here (http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2306247) to add home-screen rotation, but as they mention cyanogenmod, I'm not sure if this will work with the stock touchwiz on the galaxy s4....any thoughts?
Ultimate rotation control worked great for my galaxy s1, but the s4 is a little buggy. Nova launcher works great for the homescreen rotation, but the lockscreen rotation is absent in nova launcher. Looking to have both rotate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
NFC unlock works perfectly fine. I don't think you understood what I was saying, the NFC system triggers once per touch to the tag, and that's it. You can leave NFC on 24/7, all it will do is waste just a tiny bit of battery each hour throughout the day. When you touch the tag (on your wireless charger in this case), it will trigger once to unlock and do all the things you want it to do, but when you remove the phone, it will do NOTHING. NFC does not care when the tag has been removed from it's field, just the initial connection to exchange data, that's it. NFC is a fire-and-forget-it system, it does not track anything other than the initial touch. It will not work to pull the phone away and "viola, locked and normal again," it just doesn't work that way, you'll either need NFC Tasker or some other app to create a switching tag (so you tap it again to 'switch' back to normal), OR configure another tag say on your keys to lock the phone and return it to normal.
Cynagen said:
NFC unlock works perfectly fine. I don't think you understood what I was saying, the NFC system triggers once per touch to the tag, and that's it. You can leave NFC on 24/7, all it will do is waste just a tiny bit of battery each hour throughout the day. When you touch the tag (on your wireless charger in this case), it will trigger once to unlock and do all the things you want it to do, but when you remove the phone, it will do NOTHING. NFC does not care when the tag has been removed from it's field, just the initial connection to exchange data, that's it. NFC is a fire-and-forget-it system, it does not track anything other than the initial touch. It will not work to pull the phone away and "viola, locked and normal again," it just doesn't work that way, you'll either need NFC Tasker or some other app to create a switching tag (so you tap it again to 'switch' back to normal), OR configure another tag say on your keys to lock the phone and return it to normal.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did the second link I provided above not run special actions when NFC is removed (I think you're thinking of a different method...)? I fallowed the link from a site, Google "Lifehacker Run an Action When You Remove Your Phone from an NFC Tag" and it should show what I'm talking about. Yes, I am FULLY aware when you remove your phone from a NFC tag, it doesn't run a task because the tag is braindead, and only does what it's programmed too. Hence, you need your phone to say "Hey, I was removed from my NFC tag, let me run another special command!" via special applications that would signal the phone to do so. The reason I want NFC running 24/7 (even while the phone is locked, normally it has to be unlocked to accept a NFC command) is because its convenient not to unlock my phone to run said task (I belive the Moto X has a similar feature with the Motorola Skip). I know i could double tap the NFC tag to revert settings back (via, again, a app), but its not as seamless as just removing it and going on my merry way.
I'm just trying to ace this in one go around, but seeing as phase 1 of my ongoing saga is accomplished in this post, I think I'll create a new post so the title can attract some more help. Thanks guys! And Exel i will do one better and post a video. I'll try to remember to send it over to demonstrate my methods, but only once I'm satisfied with the results :good: .
Knievel_Spirit said:
Did the second link I provided above not run special actions when NFC is removed (I think you're thinking of a different method...)? I fallowed the link from a site, Google "Lifehacker Run an Action When You Remove Your Phone from an NFC Tag" and it should show what I'm talking about. Yes, I am FULLY aware when you remove your phone from a NFC tag, it doesn't run a task because the tag is braindead, and only does what it's programmed too. Hence, you need your phone to say "Hey, I was removed from my NFC tag, let me run another special command!" via special applications that would signal the phone to do so. The reason I want NFC running 24/7 (even while the phone is locked, normally it has to be unlocked to accept a NFC command) is because its convenient not to unlock my phone to run said task (I belive the Moto X has a similar feature with the Motorola Skip). I know i could double tap the NFC tag to revert settings back (via, again, a app), but its not as seamless as just removing it and going on my merry way.
I'm just trying to ace this in one go around, but seeing as phase 1 of my ongoing saga is accomplished in this post, I think I'll create a new post so the title can attract some more help. Thanks guys! And Exel i will do one better and post a video. I'll try to remember to send it over to demonstrate my methods, but only once I'm satisfied with the results :good: .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Second link on review appears to have some solid tools and tweaks to accomplish this goal successfully. I look forward to seeing the results, I know one friend that would probably go for this in a heartbeat.
Try Llama. Not the easiest UI to get on with, but very powerful and free.
You could use a llama variable and 'removed from wireless charger' condition to know that it was removed from the NFC: 1) when NFC tag comes on, set a llama variable. 2) when removed from charger and llama variable is set, do whatever you need (including reverting the variable). If that's the only wireless charger you use, then you don't even need to use any llama variable.
Among other things, I use Llama to deactivate pattern lock when connected to home wifi, and activating it when disconnected from home wifi after a certain delay. This could be done with many apps of course (Tasker, AutomateIt, etc).
lost_ said:
Try Llama. Not the easiest UI to get on with, but very powerful and free.
You could use a llama variable and 'removed from wireless charger' condition to know that it was removed from the NFC: 1) when NFC tag comes on, set a llama variable. 2) when removed from charger and llama variable is set, do whatever you need (including reverting the variable). If that's the only wireless charger you use, then you don't even need to use any llama variable.
Among other things, I use Llama to deactivate pattern lock when connected to home wifi, and activating it when disconnected from home wifi after a certain delay. This could be done with many apps of course (Tasker, AutomateIt, etc).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Llama looks great! If my methods don't work out I'll look at it as a alternative. I'm start to root right now. Hoping to have it running by the end of the day.
Root finished! 2 hours later. Not bad for a first time root :highfive:
Exel said:
I'm interested in pictures, sounds like a neat idea.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Took some time but I just finished. I'll try to make time this week to create something to show you. It'd be great for truck drivers I was thinking who have longer drives than the typical commuter.
I would like to buy a nexus 7 to hack it into my wifes car permanently. I am worried about the stock battery in the extreme temp changes. Is there a way I could remove the battery and just have the car battery be it's battery? I can't imagine it draining the battery too much over a day or so.
stupid idea i must say...........
leaving all voltage/current/temperature issues aside, if u somehow do make it work, ur tab's gonna turn off every time when u switch off the ignition (at traffic lights, jams etc).
why not just buy a dashboard dock for ur tab, and a car charger(which is connected via the cigarette lighter outlet), u can leave tht charger connected if u wish.
aritro88 said:
stupid idea i must say...........
leaving all voltage/current/temperature issues aside, if u somehow do make it work, ur tab's gonna turn off every time when u switch off the ignition (at traffic lights, jams etc).
why not just buy a dashboard dock for ur tab, and a car charger(which is connected via the cigarette lighter outlet), u can leave tht charger connected if u wish.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Clearly you have no idea what you are talking about, so please refrain from shedding your "brilliance" moving forward. This is nothing new, and people are doing this all over the place.
There are applications to allow the tablet to remain charged while in ignition->off mode, while not draining the vehicle's power (read: trickle charging, essentially). Who the hell turns off their car at traffic lights/jams? I don't know a single person that does this.
There are TONS of advantages to installing a N7 into your vehicle as your primary audio/nav/etc. source. Internet radio, hands free call/SMS over stereo, navigation, etc. all in one for a mere couple hundred dollars.
Do some research before you just slam someone's idea.
OP: Check out an app called Tasker. It allows you to configure the tablet to see vehicle ignition and at that condition, brighten the screen, turn on WiFi/Bluetooth/GPS/etc., and then turn all that stuff off, and go into a low voltage mode. This will take care of your battery concerns.
tasker
Yes I know about tasker and I am sure I can get that to work for ignition on and off. Maybe I need to rephrase my question and shed some more light.What I am wondering is if there is a good way to run it with no battery and use the car completely for power or if it is even possible. I know that tasker will get its info from it if there is power on the charge port but what if I don't use that? What if I give it power directly from the car where the battery should be. Is it possible for me to do that? The only reason I was thinking of doing that is because it would be permanent and I do not want the battery to explode in the summer heat. Could I run the tab with just power over USB and no battery? So that ignition sends power to the Tab and it has no tablet battery ? I have not purchased the tablet yet and was hoping to figure this all out before I start hacking it to pieces. I am not scared to solder or do any of that but I do not know how the tablet will work with no battery so I was hoping someone else would. Thanks
aritro88 said:
stupid idea i must say...........
leaving all voltage/current/temperature issues aside, if u somehow do make it work, ur tab's gonna turn off every time when u switch off the ignition (at traffic lights, jams etc).
why not just buy a dashboard dock for ur tab, and a car charger(which is connected via the cigarette lighter outlet), u can leave tht charger connected if u wish.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do not shut off my car as I do not live in a big city with traffic jams or any of that. I am not worried about voltage/current as I am sure I can figure that out or modify a current 12v to usb charger. Temperature I am also not worried about as I can add heatsinks to everything and fans if needed. I am a little worried about the battery sitting in the car in the heat and that is why I am asking these questions.
StopHammertime said:
Who the hell turns off their car at traffic lights/jams? I don't know a single person that does this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
either u (and the people you know) r very rich, or u hav got a SUPER eco friendly fuel saving car that i dont know about. everyone turns off their ignition when they are stuck at jams n lights.
my guess, u own a normal run off the mill car. so switch off ur engine when required, it'll save u abt 800-1000$ worth of fuel in a year
There are TONS of advantages to installing a N7 into your vehicle as your primary audio/nav/etc. source. Internet radio, hands free call/SMS over stereo, navigation, etc. all in one for a mere couple hundred dollars.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
not to mention the laborious process of rewiring ur car's electrical systems, dashboard trims etc...........
my process will cost a maximum of abt 10-15$, and at max 2mins of install time. (use a "line-in" cable to route ur tab's audio via the cars existing stereo system)
JohnnyTightlips said:
What I am wondering is if there is a good way to run it with no battery and use the car completely for power or if it is even possible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
try it with ur cell phone. connect and charger and pull out the battery, see what happens....
JohnnyTightlips said:
I am a little worried about the battery sitting in the car in the heat and that is why I am asking these questions.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
??? Heat on the battery will do what ??? I have had a GPS on the dash of my car solid, parked outdoors, for 2 years. Still works fine when plugged in to the 12v adapter, and even holds a charge. Heat may shorten "life" of battery, but if it is also connected to a power cource of the car, should be FINE.:good:
Well from the looks of it no one has a real answer so I am just going to mess around with one when I get it and see what works best for me. I do not mind rewiring the entire car as I planned to do that with new speakers and an amp etc. I have done many car audio installs and I actually enjoy doing it. I think what I will probably end up doing is keeping the battery in it and if it does go bad I can just replace it. The way I see it is it is a pretty cheap tablet to mess around with compared to the thousand plus I would spend on a double din to do the same thing. Plus if I don't like how it works on my test bench then I will just use it as a tablet and not put it in the car. Thanks for the help. Also I don't know a single person who shuts their cars off at stop lights. I am sure it is great on the car to start and stop the motor every 2 minutes. You do realize you use very little gas when at idle. Anyways, thanks for the ideas.
Is this a serious post? Obviously if I am looking to hack a 200$ tablet I am not worried about cost too much. Also your idea is easy but I want it to be integrated and clean. I want it to look nice and not just have wires and mount sitting there.
aritro88 said:
either u (and the people you know) r very rich, or u hav got a SUPER eco friendly fuel saving car that i dont know about. everyone turns off their ignition when they are stuck at jams n lights.
my guess, u own a normal run off the mill car. so switch off ur engine when required, it'll save u abt 800-1000$ worth of fuel in a year
not to mention the laborious process of rewiring ur car's electrical systems, dashboard trims etc...........
my process will cost a maximum of abt 10-15$, and at max 2mins of install time. (use a "line-in" cable to route ur tab's audio via the cars existing stereo system)
try it with ur cell phone. connect and charger and pull out the battery, see what happens....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
aritro88 said:
either u (and the people you know) r very rich, or u hav got a SUPER eco friendly fuel saving car that i dont know about. everyone turns off their ignition when they are stuck at jams n lights.
my guess, u own a normal run off the mill car. so switch off ur engine when required, it'll save u abt 800-1000$ worth of fuel in a year
not to mention the laborious process of rewiring ur car's electrical systems, dashboard trims etc...........
my process will cost a maximum of abt 10-15$, and at max 2mins of install time. (use a "line-in" cable to route ur tab's audio via the cars existing stereo system)
try it with ur cell phone. connect and charger and pull out the battery, see what happens....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is this real life? are you serious right now? You have got to either be trolling, or just a complete idiot.
You should have to pass at least a 4rd grade grammar test to post on this forum, because posts like these are just embarrassing to the forum.
aritro88 said:
either u (and the people you know) r very rich, or u hav got a SUPER eco friendly fuel saving car that i dont know about. everyone turns off their ignition when they are stuck at jams n lights.
my guess, u own a normal run off the mill car. so switch off ur engine when required, it'll save u abt 800-1000$ worth of fuel in a year
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
2001 Corvette, I'm not rich, I'm a DIY'er. Isn't that what this forum is for? People that like to do projects and things themselves? Are you not from the US? Literally, no one does that but you. It doesn't take much fuel for a vehicle to sit at idle. In fact, it generally consumes MORE fuel to start a vehicle rather than let it idle for a few minutes rather than turn it off, wait a minute, turn it on, drive a bit, repeat, etc. Care to argue with me about this? I'm an ASE certified technician and will teach you a thing or two.
aritro88 said:
not to mention the laborious process of rewiring ur car's electrical systems, dashboard trims etc...........
my process will cost a maximum of abt 10-15$, and at max 2mins of install time. (use a "line-in" cable to route ur tab's audio via the cars existing stereo system)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Rewiring my car? Haha. No. There's no rewiring involved other than adding an adapter. I think even a 4 year old could handle that task. Dashboard trims should not need modification on most newer vehicles, as most newer vehicles come with a double din or larger console that will either allow for direct fitment, or fitment with a simple install kit. My car requires modification, but it's easy work. It's not for the average Joe when it comes to modifying plastics, no, but you can hire people to do that. Also, again, this is a PROJECT. If you don't like it, shut up about it and don't post. The OP wants to do this, let him do it. Congrats on your cool 2 minute idea, but guess what, it's going to look stupid compared to an in-dash installation. Don't believe me?
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versus
---------- Post added at 10:31 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:25 AM ----------
e30andrew said:
Is this real life? are you serious right now? You have got to either be trolling, or just a complete idiot.
You should have to pass at least a 4rd grade grammar test to post on this forum, because posts like these are just embarrassing to the forum.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
:good:
lol'd @ 4rd grade
Awesome post.. I see you went the whole nexus dash route, did you end up going with a permanent solution or is the tablet just hiding in there? I wanted to do this for my wife and make it as friendly as possible. I was looking at using the ElementalX kernel so that I could add usb storage while charging, is that what you did? I would also be using co-pilot for gps since I can just download the maps. Did you add a usb-dac to yours? I figured if I am going to spend some money on nice speakers and an amp or two I might as well get the best audio quality. My biggest concern is that this project will be wife proof and it will work well for her on a daily use. I would love to get her steering controls working too but that may be a stretch. I actually love to tinker with this stuff so if it takes a couple weeks to get it working with ignition on off etc and music, gps, etc etc I am totally cool with that. I have done 4 carputer intalls before this but this will be my first tablet job. I figure if it goes well and I really like it then I will do the same to my car.
StopHammertime said:
2001 Corvette, I'm not rich, I'm a DIY'er. Isn't that what this forum is for? People that like to do projects and things themselves? Are you not from the US? Literally, no one does that but you. It doesn't take much fuel for a vehicle to sit at idle. In fact, it generally consumes MORE fuel to start a vehicle rather than let it idle for a few minutes rather than turn it off, wait a minute, turn it on, drive a bit, repeat, etc. Care to argue with me about this? I'm an ASE certified technician and will teach you a thing or two.
Rewiring my car? Haha. No. There's no rewiring involved other than adding an adapter. I think even a 4 year old could handle that task. Dashboard trims should not need modification on most newer vehicles, as most newer vehicles come with a double din or larger console that will either allow for direct fitment, or fitment with a simple install kit. My car requires modification, but it's easy work. It's not for the average Joe when it comes to modifying plastics, no, but you can hire people to do that. Also, again, this is a PROJECT. If you don't like it, shut up about it and don't post. The OP wants to do this, let him do it. Congrats on your cool 2 minute idea, but guess what, it's going to look stupid compared to an in-dash installation. Don't believe me?
versus
---------- Post added at 10:31 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:25 AM ----------
:good:
lol'd @ 4rd grade
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
JohnnyTightlips said:
Awesome post.. I see you went the whole nexus dash route, did you end up going with a permanent solution or is the tablet just hiding in there? I wanted to do this for my wife and make it as friendly as possible. I was looking at using the ElementalX kernel so that I could add usb storage while charging, is that what you did? I would also be using co-pilot for gps since I can just download the maps. Did you add a usb-dac to yours? I figured if I am going to spend some money on nice speakers and an amp or two I might as well get the best audio quality. My biggest concern is that this project will be wife proof and it will work well for her on a daily use. I would love to get her steering controls working too but that may be a stretch. I actually love to tinker with this stuff so if it takes a couple weeks to get it working with ignition on off etc and music, gps, etc etc I am totally cool with that. I have done 4 carputer intalls before this but this will be my first tablet job. I figure if it goes well and I really like it then I will do the same to my car.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually, that's the build I'm basing mine off of. Mine is going to be very similar, though I did have to do a bit of dash modification to make it fit (I should be done this week and will be posting pics/build thread). The one in the photo is "permanent" (though he simply hot glued brackets to it and it could easily be removed), and mine will be permanent. For $200, I have no issue keeping the thing installed permanently. My current 2013 has CM11 on it, but I haven't tested it with USB OTG (waiting on another cable to arrive), though if it doesn't work, I'll just use the ElementalX kernel with a stock ROM, since I'm sure that will work. Timur is working on a 2013 ROM as well. However, that's exactly what the plan is. 1TB external HDD with the accessory wire switching on a relay to engage the charging/screen on profile for the tablet, then upon key off, kill relay, and switching profile to off profile. I'm using a ByByte QUAD 7850 mini-amp to power everything. (LINK)
Regarding steering wheel controls, though I hear it's possible, I'm told it is a MAJOR project. I'm not going to bother with that, myself.
Sounds awesome, I will be excited to read your write up. I am curious to know how good that little amp will be. I was thinking of doing a 5 channel amp but I really didn't want to tear up the interior to run all the wires. Will you be using stock speakers? Are you using the 3.5mm jack or going to move toward a usb-dac? I will probably just go with a 64gb usb pen drive since my wife will only be doing music and very few movies if ever. I will also be adding fm to mine. Seems like all of this can be easily tested before it is in a car so I might have to take the plunge and start tinkering. Hook me up with a link when you get your write up going. Thanks
StopHammertime said:
Actually, that's the build I'm basing mine off of. Mine is going to be very similar, though I did have to do a bit of dash modification to make it fit (I should be done this week and will be posting pics/build thread). The one in the photo is "permanent" (though he simply hot glued brackets to it and it could easily be removed), and mine will be permanent. For $200, I have no issue keeping the thing installed permanently. My current 2013 has CM11 on it, but I haven't tested it with USB OTG (waiting on another cable to arrive), though if it doesn't work, I'll just use the ElementalX kernel with a stock ROM, since I'm sure that will work. Timur is working on a 2013 ROM as well. However, that's exactly what the plan is. 1TB external HDD with the accessory wire switching on a relay to engage the charging/screen on profile for the tablet, then upon key off, *****. I'm using a ByByte QUAD 7850 mini-amp to power everything. (LINK)
Regarding steering wheel controls, though I hear it's possible, I'm told it is a MAJOR project. I'm not going to bother with that, myself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
JohnnyTightlips said:
Sounds awesome, I will be excited to read your write up. I am curious to know how good that little amp will be. I was thinking of doing a 5 channel amp but I really didn't want to tear up the interior to run all the wires. Will you be using stock speakers? Are you using the 3.5mm jack or going to move toward a usb-dac? I will probably just go with a 64gb usb pen drive since my wife will only be doing music and very few movies if ever. I will also be adding fm to mine. Seems like all of this can be easily tested before it is in a car so I might have to take the plunge and start tinkering. Hook me up with a link when you get your write up going. Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The guy who's build I'm replicating used the mini amp, said it was just fine. It's basically the same as the built-in amps on a regular head unit. I may switch to aftermarket speakers/amp/sub in the future, though, so stock speakers for now. Since it has a factory Bose setup, I had to buy a PAC ROEM-VET1 adapter to lower the frequency, which allows me to use the factory speakers.
Yup, definitely can mostly be bench tested first. I haven't done much research on FM. Have you? Any thoughts on how to accomplish that? I really don't care if I never have FM in my car again, but I'm curious to know how people are accomplishing that.
Will do on the link. :good:
StopHammertime said:
The guy who's build I'm replicating used the mini amp, said it was just fine. It's basically the same as the built-in amps on a regular head unit. I may switch to aftermarket speakers/amp/sub in the future, though, so stock speakers for now. Since it has a factory Bose setup, I had to buy a PAC ROEM-VET1 adapter to lower the frequency, which allows me to use the factory speakers.
Yup, definitely can mostly be bench tested first. I haven't done much research on FM. Have you? Any thoughts on how to accomplish that? I really don't care if I never have FM in my car again, but I'm curious to know how people are accomplishing that.
Will do on the link. :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I looked into it and people have used something like this DVB-T Realtek RTL2832U Elonics R820T 50MHz-2200MHz HD TV DAB SDR RTL-SDR Project and used it for radio with SDR TOUCH I ordered one already and will see how well it works on a PC before I get the tablet. You would need to get a usb hub working in order to plug it in and your hdd. I learned a lot from Nexus 7 clean car install with backup cam. He is using the older nexus but I am sure a lot of the same stuff applies as long as you have a kernel that supports it which there is now. My wife could not live without NPR so she has to have radio. It is also nice to have radio and not need data, then you know if there are any weather events or crazy things going on.
aritro88 said:
stupid idea i must say...........
.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Search YouTube. Some really cool in dash tablet setups out there. They even have modules avail now where you can use your steering wheel controls with the tablet. For a 200$ tablet, N7 not a bad deal for an in dash car setup. There is a great market out there for supplies and Installers on this exact topic!! Some make them removable, some pop into sight when you turn the key.!! I would love to have the time to take on an in dash Android setup, fun project to say the least.
I suppose it would only be a stupid idea for the non Android lovers and boring dudes lacking the love for technology. Negative kids these day
JohnnyTightlips said:
Is this a serious post? Obviously if I am looking to hack a 200$ tablet I am not worried about cost too much. Also your idea is easy but I want it to be integrated and clean. I want it to look nice and not just have wires and mount sitting there.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
He is trolling.
Sent from my Nexus 7 (2013) using Tapatalk 4
Yes, it's possible, but has some side-effects
Edit: Sorry, didn't see this whole forum section is about the 2013 Nexus 7. But it still might be relevant if anyone dares to do the same hack on a new Nexus 7...
To answer the original question: Yes, it's possible to power the Nexus 7 (old) without battery, but it involves sending power directly to the battery connection inside the Nexus 7, and it seems to have some side-effects.
The battery is a one-cell lithium polymer, which has a max charge of 4.23 V. I hoped the Nexus wouldn't fry when connecting 5 V, and it has worked fine the few minutes I've tested it. No smell of burnt electronics
Here is what I did:
Tear off the tape around the battery cable. You'll see it's soldered to a pcb-board, and the two black and two red wires are soldered together. The two wires in the middle is probably some kind of data-connection to the battery. Will investigate this further later.
Then I soldered loose the cables, so I could use the battery-connector, and soldered both red and black wires to red and black wires in a USB-cable. Drilled a hole in the back-cover right below the NFC-antenna. The back-cover is filled with all sorts of antennas, so scratch carefully with a knife before drilling. Attached some pictures of the process.
Side-effects I've noticed so far:
- It thinks the battery is at 0% and not charging.
- The clock is reset when you turn off the power. But if you have internet it will update from NTP within a minute or so.
- My computer (OS X) can't detect it anymore. So I suspect it doesn't work in USB device-mode anymore, but I'm able to connect a USB-keyboard with an OTG-cable, so it seems to work in host-mode.
Does anyone else have any experience with this, or any ideas why it doesn't work in device-mode? I'm considering adding a small connector so I can use the two extra wires from the battery to the data-wires of the USB-cable (and disconnect when not in use), and then solder a USB female cable to the original battery. That way I can (hopefully) connect the Nexus 7 to my computer when needed, and possibly analyze what the two extra wires is actually used for.
I have CM for Android 4.2, and Timur's USB-rom, but it's probably not needed for this hack, and I will probably install a stock rom if I get this working properly.
Be careful, and don't blame me if you fry your Nexus (or anything else). Be sure to turn off any fast-charge hacks when the battery is disconnected.
You've done some more testing?
I am also trying to connect directly to the car my nexus.
Thanks for the reply
gregersrygg said:
Edit: Sorry, didn't see this whole forum section is about the 2013 Nexus 7. But it still might be relevant if anyone dares to do the same hack on a new Nexus 7...
To answer the original question: Yes, it's possible to power the Nexus 7 (old) without battery, but it involves sending power directly to the battery connection inside the Nexus 7, and it seems to have some side-effects.
The battery is a one-cell lithium polymer, which has a max charge of 4.23 V. I hoped the Nexus wouldn't fry when connecting 5 V, and it has worked fine the few minutes I've tested it. No smell of burnt electronics
Here is what I did:
Tear off the tape around the battery cable. You'll see it's soldered to a pcb-board, and the two black and two red wires are soldered together. The two wires in the middle is probably some kind of data-connection to the battery. Will investigate this further later.
Then I soldered loose the cables, so I could use the battery-connector, and soldered both red and black wires to red and black wires in a USB-cable. Drilled a hole in the back-cover right below the NFC-antenna. The back-cover is filled with all sorts of antennas, so scratch carefully with a knife before drilling. Attached some pictures of the process.
Side-effects I've noticed so far:
- It thinks the battery is at 0% and not charging.
- The clock is reset when you turn off the power. But if you have internet it will update from NTP within a minute or so.
- My computer (OS X) can't detect it anymore. So I suspect it doesn't work in USB device-mode anymore, but I'm able to connect a USB-keyboard with an OTG-cable, so it seems to work in host-mode.
Does anyone else have any experience with this, or any ideas why it doesn't work in device-mode? I'm considering adding a small connector so I can use the two extra wires from the battery to the data-wires of the USB-cable (and disconnect when not in use), and then solder a USB female cable to the original battery. That way I can (hopefully) connect the Nexus 7 to my computer when needed, and possibly analyze what the two extra wires is actually used for.
I have CM for Android 4.2, and Timur's USB-rom, but it's probably not needed for this hack, and I will probably install a stock rom if I get this working properly.
Be careful, and don't blame me if you fry your Nexus (or anything else). Be sure to turn off any fast-charge hacks when the battery is disconnected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here is my quick review on the new Avantree Audition bluetooth headphones!
Pros:
-Bluetooth 4.0 with NFC
-One tap connect and disconnect!
-42 hours battery life
-Connect via wire when battery's out! Also works with normal 3.5mm devices w/out bluetooth!
-Rich bass and crisp audio!
-Works perfectly with our Nexus 5! Demo in video above, half way through!
-79$ or 49£, budget price and high quality! Can be bought at avantree.com or mobilefun's website!
Cons:
-Bit tight on the fit initially.. Hoping it will loosen up as time goes by
-Noise cancellation and ambient sound blocking is so good, it's scary! I feel like i'm in another world putting these on. Maybe there's an app to listen to ambient sounds and stuff?
-You can't hear yourself too well when on voice call, due to noise cancellation. Be careful, you might be yelling lol!
-No other cons really.. It's a fantastic accessory!
The actual build quality feels solid and not really cheap. It's full matte so fingerprints will happen if you've got greasy fingers. But it's easy to clean and stays neat. The inbuilt mic is fantastic for hangouts video calling, or general voice calls as well. The mic is at a curved outward position, very intelligent design!
I bought this device from avantree when their price was still 69$, lucky me
Any questions, do ask!
NFC in this case is a gimmick. once you connect a bluetooth device to your phone its going to connect / disconnect based on whether it's turned on or not, making the NFC connect useless after initial setup.
saranwrap said:
NFC in this case is a gimmick. once you connect a bluetooth device to your phone its going to connect / disconnect based on whether it's turned on or not, making the NFC connect useless after initial setup.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could have a similar argument against wireless chargers saying they're power inefficient, it's better to use a cable... but it's just ease of use and the convenience factor. Doesn't feel gimmicky at all imho, Here's my real world scenario;
I'm headed out, I grab my phone and headphones, just tap and put it on. It's paired instantly. A lot easier than holding down the power button
Without nfc I would have to:
-Power on the headset, wait for it to blink blue to make sure it's ready to connect
-Turn on bluetooth and make sure it's connected
It makes the ease of use about 25% more, hence my inclusion of it as a pro.
crazyguns said:
You could have a similar argument against wireless chargers saying they're power inefficient, it's better to use a cable... but it's just ease of use and the convenience factor. Doesn't feel gimmicky at all imho, Here's my real world scenario;
I'm headed out, I grab my phone and headphones, just tap and put it on. It's paired instantly. A lot easier than holding down the power button
Without nfc I would have to:
-Power on the headset, wait for it to blink blue to make sure it's ready to connect
-Turn on bluetooth and make sure it's connected
It makes the ease of use about 25% more, hence my inclusion of it as a pro.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nothing like wireless charger you use every day.
Do you mean to tell me the nfc powers on the device automatically? Nfc needs power to function. either way you are turning on the headset which will automatically connect it to any devices it has been set up with by nature of how bluetooth works. Your scenario doesn't make any sense and nfc initializing is nothing more than 1 time gimmick.
Great review, but I agree the nfc connection is just a gimmick. Bluetooth headsets connect automatically anyways. It saves a few seconds from the initial setup but it's exactly the same afterwards.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
saranwrap said:
Nothing like wireless charger you use every day.
Do you mean to tell me the nfc powers on the device automatically? Nfc needs power to function. either way you are turning on the headset which will automatically connect it to any devices it has been set up with by nature of how bluetooth works. Your scenario doesn't make any sense and nfc initializing is nothing more than 1 time gimmick.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes but i'm not touching the power button on the device at all. This obviously means it powers on when nfc is connected, I also get a bluetooth toast saying "Connecting to Avantree Audition" which wouldn't happen if it was just turning on bluetooth. You can see this in the video.
androidguy10 said:
thinking of getting this because of the bluetooth / corded option.
One of your con was "it's a bit tight". I wonder if it's suitable for people wearing glasses.
Also, when did you get your for $69. I'm not in a rush so I can wait until the price drops again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it was an initial launch price, i ordered it as soon as they announced, next day it was upped..
As for the glasses, I've got glasses too and it's alright, didn't really notice too much of a difference. They do hold the glasses tight so if you've got thick frames it could be a slight issue.
The tightness is now going away. It's slowly becoming more flexible, definitely more comfortable than it was on day one!
crazyguns said:
it was an initial launch price, i ordered it as soon as they announced, next day it was upped..
As for the glasses, I've got glasses too and it's alright, didn't really notice too much of a difference. They do hold the glasses tight so if you've got thick frames it could be a slight issue.
The tightness is now going away. It's slowly becoming more flexible, definitely more comfortable than it was on day one!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Theese are quite interesting: where did you buy them?
Still listed system $79
http://www.avantree.com/Product-bluetooth-wireless-NFC-headphones-Avantree-Audition_938.html
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
crazyguns said:
Yes but i'm not touching the power button on the device at all. This obviously means it powers on when nfc is connected, I also get a bluetooth toast saying "Connecting to Avantree Audition" which wouldn't happen if it was just turning on bluetooth. You can see this in the video.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You still have to pick it up to put it on, and I assume everyone does it like me where you just tick the power as you pick it up. There is no waiting for anything making it a seemless transition. The only way it could be more convenient is if I left it on my head all the time and it turned on/off based on reading my mind. If anything, this is less convenient if you depend on the NFC since you actually need to be near the phone to use it. I have plenty of times left my phone on the charger, grabbed my earpiece from my pocket, and started using it without having to take my phone off the wireless charger, flip it over, and tap it to it.
snives said:
You still have to pick it up to put it on, and I assume everyone does it like me where you just tick the power as you pick it up. There is no waiting for anything making it a seemless transition. The only way it could be more convenient is if I left it on my head all the time and it turned on/off based on reading my mind. If anything, this is less convenient if you depend on the NFC since you actually need to be near the phone to use it. I have plenty of times left my phone on the charger, grabbed my earpiece from my pocket, and started using it without having to take my phone off the wireless charger, flip it over, and tap it to it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This doesn't have a "tick the power" mechanism, I dont remember a bluetooth headset that did. Usually you have to press and hold the call/power button for 3 seconds for it to power up and connect to a device, or keep holding it for the device to be in pair mode.. Avoid all of that by just a tap of the phone to the headset in this case.
End of the day, it all comes down to personal preference. I think NFC is a huge advantage in terms of ease of use, and if it seems gimmicky to you then I guess it's not for you.
Not sure whether you guys still reading this or not, but i'm gonna go with TS on this one. The convenient of never have to turn on your phone bluetooth and let the NFC function do its work. Plus the only people that would actually get this are people that want the wireless convenience.
Another note, i can't seem to get this headset working with my laptop running windows 7 pro 64bit. Does TS have the same problem?
On christmas of 2018, I got an LED view case to match my purple Verizon S9. It's a good case, has stopped a few drops, and has cool features, however I've always been intrigued by the technology behind it. Simply by being placed on the phone it can receive and I think even send data for the clock and music controller, and must receive power (3v at 40mA according to the label inside it) for the LED display. My guess as to how this is done is through the use of the phone's NFC, and the wireless charging coil for power transfer. The wireless charging theory is supported by the fact that if you enable the case's display while it's on a wireless charger, the charging will momentarily cease and resume when the display turns back off. Neat, right?
Here's what has me more excited, however. The S10 released with a wireless power sharing feature as you all may be aware of, but it has occurred to me that the S9 may actually be equipped with something very close to the same hardware, or at least similar in principle, since it seems it almost definitely can send power through inductive coupling. Whether it can send the higher volts and amps for charging is another question, though, and if that can be discovered, here's what I'm really wondering and what makes me debate if this falls under development: Could software potentially be altered to fully enable reverse hardware on the S9, S9+ and Note 9? I'm really curious just how much the actual charging coil and driver circuitry in the S9 is capable of, particularly if it's even remotely possible to tweak its operation with ROMs or firmware and suchwhat.