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i need to take apart my ks20. want to repaint the chrome like frame that goes around the phone (lg used some cheap paint, it comes off really easy). I have looked at the service manual, but couldn't get anywhere. After taking out the battery and sim card, there are to screws on top that i removed, i tried to remove the back plastic cover (the one with the camera opening) and no luck, it doesn't budge.
does someone know how to do this? i think the service manual is somewhere on the site, but i have no idea how to proceed.
thanx a lot
Try
http://rapidshare.de/files/38526183/EN_KS20_SVC_ENG_1123_1.0_.pdf.html
thanx for the link, but i have looked at the manual and can't make up anything of it
it doesn't say how to go about taking it apart, all it shows is a diagram with all the pieces
is there anyone here who knows or at least has an idea about this, i really need to get it repainted (i hate scratched phones)
thanx a lot
Maybe some one can answer this question? I also need to disassemble my KS20 - because of dirt on camera lens...
The disassembly is fairly straightforward - remove the battery, remove the visible screws, run a special tool along the black plastic and unclip. It's not easy, but it will come off. The back cover houses thermal pad, because KS20 gets quite hot from time to time. I guess LG didn't anticipate that happening, so the pad is a bit of a last resort solution from them, quite unorthodox.
As far as middle silver strip is concerned, it houses a flex, so unless you know what you are doing - don't bother touching beyond the back cover.
hi, i dissambled my ks20 today.. and i think there's a problem...
my screen wont turn on anymore...there are still sounds and even the touch screen is working..its just that my screen is not showing anything...
i think the connection between the screen and the motherboard was loose...
but then again, i cannot find the connector... can someone help me with this...
Hi,
Read this KS20
By.
tqso much....
i just receive my digitizer today... but i have no idea to repair it myself...can u guide me?
We took my ks20 apart. The screen opened up a bit when it was removed, so perhaps it's broken. We did manage to get the digitizer off however..
Problem is the digitizer was glued with a helluva lot of glue. How will we get it to stick when we put it back? I read some use double-sided tape, but won't that be way too thick?
Glue seems to be the only solution, but what kind and how much? The screen also seemed to have been glued in place.
Will any kind of super glue work? Only a couple of drops perhaps? I'm pretty sure the phone won't be tight after this but..
Anyone who's done this procedure.. What did you use? We're gonna finish this tomorrow so I'm very grateful for any advice.
bump
This is important.
Hello!
Has anyone seen a disassembly guide / dismantlling guide for an xperia play? I have had a quick look and havent seen one. A video one would be really good and one that looks at the digitizer / glass would be best for me as I seem to have broken mine already, oops!
Cheers
That sucks.
If you have Rogers they have a replacement policy. I would try that before you take it apart. Good luck. I haven't seen any guides yet. It is a pretty new phone.
You have a teardown here, it may be useful: http://www.ubmtechinsights.com/teardowns/sony-xperia-play-teardown/
I have found this, but would still like to see a video if one exists?
http://www.repairyourmobile.net/sony-ericsson-disassembly/sony-ericsson-xperia-play-disassembly/
Cheers
You can get a brand new OEM Sony Ericsson Touch Digitizer Screen on eBay from here: http://cgi.ebay.ca/OEM-Touch-Digiti...ultDomain_0&hash=item27bb11025c#ht_4868wt_905
I just ordered an OEM Xperia PLAY Black Housing Set from them and it's on its way. Funny how those "takedown" photos don't show you how they disconnected the sliding screen from the gamepad base. I got stuck at that part and have no idea how they were able to remove it. LOL
Rogers replacement policy doesn't give you the same model.... They have designated refurbished models available at no cost per person per life... You can only use it once... Unless the customer support was lying to me, that is what she told me.
Sent from my R800i using XDA App
Have you dealt with rogers before? The have no issue flatout lying to your face. I cant tell you how many times I got screwed over by those ****ers. So I get the feeling you'd be SOL
Sent from my R800i using XDA App
The only reason I switched over to Rogers was to get the Xperia PLAY for $99.99 on a 3 year agreement. I've been with Fido eversince and even though they're owned by Rogers now, I can say that Fido deals with their customers way better than Rogers does. When my 3 year agreement is done I'm going back with Fido. I already network unlocked my Xperia PLAY so if I still have it by then all I have to do is get a Fido SIM card.
Xperia Play disassembly pictures
Hey,
I am in the middle of taking apart my Xperia Play to replace the screen. Now, I got everything separated and taken apart except the screen half. I am having problem removing these silver rivets, which look like screws with a covering but the covering doesn't peel/come off. I have attached pictures of these in hopes that someone knows how to remove them.
Additionally, if anyone has experience replacing an Xperia Play screen, I'd love the advice.
Thanks in advance.
McD
Screen
Hi
Dont take the rivets OFF! If you just slide the control pad part off the metal casing you can get to the 2 screws you need to get to.
I have just finished replacing my screen and it is the scariest screen i have ever replaced as you need to go from back to front lol
I have attached a pic of my finished product, sorry i should of taken photos during it but i was shaking lol
Flava0ne said:
The only reason I switched over to Rogers was to get the Xperia PLAY for $99.99 on a 3 year agreement. I've been with Fido eversince and even though they're owned by Rogers now, I can say that Fido deals with their customers way better than Rogers does. When my 3 year agreement is done I'm going back with Fido. I already network unlocked my Xperia PLAY so if I still have it by then all I have to do is get a Fido SIM card.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I desperately hope that you did not get locked down to a 3 year agreement to just get this phone. As fun as this phone is (and likely to be used long past when I get another phone, just for Emulators and random games), it is not worth a 3 year contract. 2, I can understand. 1 would be more proper. 3 years is nuts in this industry. They have made back their offset of cost within 1.5 years usually.
Video!!
Hi
For anyone else who might benifit from this, here you go:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3n5ZfkqhzE
Edd
eddieo said:
Hi
For anyone else who might benifit from this, here you go:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3n5ZfkqhzE
Edd
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for that video link, I think it'll really help other people who might need to do some repairs on their own to their Xperia PLAY. I just wish that I came across that video earlier when I had to disassemble mines, I was so nervous when I was doing it cause all I had to go by where those pictures posted earlier and it left out a whole lot that I had to figure out myself.
Replacing Digitizer
Hello, Flava0ne
Do I have to take entire phone apart to replace digitizer? Is there simpler way to do it? Screen is fine - only digitizer is broken. Can it be removed from the top or bottom top access only?
Thank you
WOW sorry, too many tabs open. Wrong topic!!!
(Disregard this post)
Two questions: How far can you go without breaking a warranty seal and how many internal water damage indicators / liquid sensors are there? I just need to check since they are threatening $300 if they find anything and I work in the cold and frequently see condensation. I do avoid condensation actively and don't even allow it in the bathroom when showering.
---------- Post added at 03:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:03 PM ----------
OK, I went as far as I dared by completely taking apart the bottom piece (gamepad, camera, microSD slot, SIM slot, headset/remote jack, primary and secondary microphone, antennas, speakers, microUSB, etc) and, so far, I have found three. It was pretty easy up to this point and I didn't notice any kind of warranty seal.
I just removed all T6 screws from the back and lifted the catches along the bottom (headset/microUSB) side using my fingernail. One corner should be loose and you can start there and slide with no marring (didn't need my plastic pry tool). I don't know why, exactly, but the internal L & R switches are stuck to black adhesive films covering openings in this black piece but I was able to lift and unstick them without touching the films. Anyway, when you remove and flip this piece over, you should see a white square just below the mSD and SIM card slot. It's actually visible through a pinhole on the other side. If it's pink/red, you've got a problem, even if it's caused by condensation (they will still void your warranty for "water damage"). When I touched it, a plastic film on the back slipped off but stuck back on. The whole thing seems like it peels off quite easily.
Anyway, I would wiggle the power button loose before moving on. Next, there are now two tiny cross-head screws that I used a PH00x50 driver on. Yes, one of them was clearly accessible as soon as you removed the battery, but why remove it until you are ready to remove both? Once those are out, let the headphone jack dangle off its ribbon cable and lift the PCB enough to disconnect the display connector from the PCB... just stick something wide and flat in there and twist. Be careful not to damage the tiny ribbon cable that connects the touchpad area from the gamepad because it still needs to be disconnected. Now, this is OPPOSITE of how many larger but similar connectors work, so pay attention: To disconnect it, locate the tiny darker-colored flap of plastic on the opposite side of the connector from where the cable goes in. Lift it from the opposite side toward the side where the cable inserts. It will stand straight up and then you can slide the cable out. If you have to remove it, the headphone/remote jack appears to work the same way.
Anyway, this should completely free the PCB and leave the gamepad shell attached to the display. The gamepad shell should be free from the front half of the phone now as well, leaving only the sliding metal mounting bracket.
Now, a couple of interesting things here: I can clearly tell that one of the T6 screws by the volume button was protruding too far and caused a visible sliding scratch on the underside of my top shell. It may make sense to loosen these a bit on a new phone before this happens. You can also see if imperfections in the white Teflon sliding bumps are causing scratches on the front (my first phone did not, my second did in no time).
Now, let's go back to the gamepad faceplate. The buttons should easily fall out if you want them too, but I was only interested in finding the water sensors and here are two more: one is right by the microphone hole and the other in diagonally opposite under the Playstation Certified logo. They look identical to the one on the back piece.
I'm sure that there is at least one in the LCD assembly as well, but mine is well sealed and I didn't want to lift any of those silvery-gray stickers covering the screws when I have a warranty replacement on the way. I've gone far enough to satisfy my curiosity.
---------- Post added at 03:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:01 PM ----------
A couple notes on re-assembly:
As expected, it's a bit more difficult, especially because you don't have leverage to reconnect the display when it is in place. The last fold of the cable it supposed to fit UNDER the metal bracket and the slide mechanism doesn't really work if it isn't (a certain panel will not slide back if it is not folded under). I'm not sure how it affects it but it does. You will need a thin, long, flat utensil like a plastic butter knife or something to either A) provide leverage to connect the connector or B) tuck the cable back under the bracket after connecting it. You need to have already connected the touchpads and oriented the gamepad faceplate around/under the bracket, though it will not be secured. The phone also needs to be in the open position. When you tuck the cable under, slide it to the closed position and back. If the cable seated properly, the PCB and gamepad faceplate should sit pretty flat and should no longer be falling off of the bracket even though it isn't really secured.
The D-pad needs to be arranged properly as well. One side is cut. If you look closely, there are three holes in the four inner corners that align with three plus-shaped pegs, so you can't get it wrong if you pay attention.
The power/lock button isn't going to stay in place until you secure the bottom housing, so leave it off until just before you are ready to do that to avoid losing it.
Be careful not to seal dust in the camera lens. Don't forget to put the cross-head screws back before you do the back housing because you can't easily access one. Remember to keep the four black screws by the L, R, and volume buttons a little loose if you had a problem with them scratching the other half of the phone.
Be sure to download the Xperia Play test program from the Google Market and verify that all buttons and touch inputs function properly.
I'll be sure to wear my Looxcie next time.
I feel sorry for you blokes taking apart the xperia
it's going to be a royal pain in the ass. especially when you reach that "point"
the point where you have **** all over the table and you are like god how did i get this deep into disassembly
then the part when you are shaking / nervous about breaking a part, or worse yet. you end up breaking it. i would be real scared lol.
all i can say is go real slow. REAL slow
and if anything wont move. dont force it lol
Hogwarts said:
I feel sorry for you blokes taking apart the xperia
it's going to be a royal pain in the ass. especially when you reach that "point"
the point where you have **** all over the table and you are like god how did i get this deep into disassembly
then the part when you are shaking / nervous about breaking a part, or worse yet. you end up breaking it. i would be real scared lol.
all i can say is go real slow. REAL slow
and if anything wont move. dont force it lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe I've just taken apart too many laptops and gadgets before but I never felt that way when I got the back piece completely apart... or maybe "that point" is only after you get into the front assembly. I did the rear in bed with the screws laying on the covers beside me and didn't even lose the arrangement of a single one.
Anyway, moments after getting my RMA replacement shipped email notification this morning, I dropped my R800at that is supposed to be getting sent back and now the touch digitizer is shattered. I've ordered a replacement but I'm hoping that I'll be sending it back with the original from the RMA replacement. Does anyone know if the R800a or R800at will fit a R800 Z1i chassis? These are all over eBay. Also, is there any tamper seal? I understand that there are screws under the silver/gray stickers on the front piece but those look easy enough to reapply.
Did I mention that they wanted to turn my RMA down for the flaking paint on the front buttons alone? The night before I called to RMA for an alarm issue (two days ago), the battery door cracked right at the pry point. I remove it more often than most because I carry a second official battery and a Sony Ericsson EP900 charger, so it failed under normal wear-and-tear, but they wanted to say that I couldn't RMA for my main issue (alarm dismisses itself) because of that EVEN THOUGH THE RMA UNITS DON'T INCLUDE A BATTERY COVER!
Damn. Sony Ericsson can be picky. I babied the thing and only just now dropped it. Perhaps AT&T is a little too cautious with the terms of Sony's warranty (it is processed through them but the rules come from Sony).
CZroe said:
Maybe I've just taken apart too many laptops and gadgets before but I never felt that way when I got the back piece completely apart... or maybe "that point" is only after you get into the front assembly. I did the rear in bed with the screws laying on the covers beside me and didn't even lose the arrangement of a single one.
Anyway, moments after getting my RMA replacement shipped email notification this morning, I dropped my R800at that is supposed to be getting sent back and now the touch digitizer is shattered. I've ordered a replacement but I'm hoping that I'll be sending it back with the original from the RMA replacement. Does anyone know if the R800a or R800at will fit a R800 Z1i chassis? These are all over eBay. Also, is there any tamper seal? I understand that there are screws under the silver/gray stickers on the front piece but those look easy enough to reapply.
Did I mention that they wanted to turn my RMA down for the flaking paint on the front buttons alone? The night before I called to RMA for an alarm issue (two days ago), the battery door cracked right at the pry point. I remove it more often than most because I carry a second official battery and a Sony Ericsson EP900 charger, so it failed under normal wear-and-tear, but they wanted to say that I couldn't RMA for my main issue (alarm dismisses itself) because of that EVEN THOUGH THE RMA UNITS DON'T INCLUDE A BATTERY COVER!
Damn. Sony Ericsson can be picky. I babied the thing and only just now dropped it. Perhaps AT&T is a little too cautious with the terms of Sony's warranty (it is processed through them but the rules come from Sony).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've always said this phone is cheaply made and now i have more proof
mine came brand new out of the box with a blemish on the screen
I'm not picky so i just kept it.
Its a blemish in the LCD screen not the digitizer or glass
and yeah the cheap ass plastic assembly is not helping either.
they should have used aluminum or something. more durable
OK, so I finished the job. I did not see any more water indicators in the top shell and I did not find a single tamper-resistant label in the entire device. I left the slider assembly intact (I think it's riveted) and I didn't peel the flex PCB out of the top shell or off of the touchoads, but it was what anyone would consider "fully disassembled." I seem to have misplaced my camera but video will be coming when I find and edit it.
So I just got the 8.4 LTE model, and after some initial excitement I noticed that there's some kind of blue/grayish tape coming out from between the frame and the front panel:
(Can't link image as a new user, sorry)
i.imgur.com/j9UQby3.jpg
Anyone else encountered this? There seem to be no teardowns as of yet, so I have no idea if it's something extra that's safe to pull off with extreme force (which it seems to require), or if it's a part of some actual component...
Alternatively, has anyone been able to remove the back panel and/or frame and look inside?
I have never seen this on my tab s (10.5 WiFi). I think someone put some tape there when packaging it or it come from the package. I would suggest taking it back and ask them why its there because there shouldn't be one on the tab s. Pulling it off may break something with the screen. I can't tell if the the tape is inside or just on the outside part. Hope this helps!
I cracked the screen on my Zenfone 2, ordered Chinese replacement..didn't work (or so I thought) ordered another from a US supplier,hooked it in & still nothing..is there some kind of trick to installing or am I missing something? I see a faint light flicker, then nothing. When I removed the screen I didn't notice there was another seal screw next to the camera so unfortunately I kinda of pulled and yanked until I figured that's what was holding the cover onto the frame. it's not mentioned anywhere, but I removed the screw & the cover. . So do you think this phone is salvageable? Did I fudge something up by yanking? Just need someone who is familiar with the process to help me out
any thoughts?
Hey guys, I hope someone can help!
My phone no longer vibrates, if I do *#*#3424#*#* and do the vibration test, it doesn't do anything unless I tap the top right corner of the phone.
Obviously this is a hardware defect, but if I send it off to repair through carphone warehouse, should I take the phone back to stock? Has anyone has experience of using them and being rooted causing an issue?
Thanks guys!
I had the same issue. I had to open up the phone to fix it, but didn't need to do much more than actually opening it.
Bear in mind this will void your warranty.
Here's what I did:
Turn off the phone.
Remove the SIM and SD card trays.
Take a guitar pick or thin plastic object and gently (but with a small amount of pressure), pry up the black plastic piece on the top of the phone, it's held down with some adhesive, so you might need to peel it a bit.
You will find two size 4 torx screws under there, one on each side, recessed into the housing. Remove them.
Now use your plastic implement to start peeling off the back of the case. It works best if you dig it into the seam, then once you have it in there, run it around the edge to release the clips holding the case together.
Once the back is off, you will find the vibration module in the upper right of the circuitry you find inside, it's a small black cylinder with a silver head on it.
It's held in place with rubber bumpers on either side. Take your plastic implement and gently lift it from its housing.
Now rotate the head a few times between your fingers to loosen it up, also giving the head a very gentle push and pull - VERY GENTLE.
Now put the vibration unit carefully back into its housing.
Clip the rear casing of the phone back on. This can very tricky to get all the clips to snap back into place. Don't do what I did and use pliers. My phone now has a small dent in it. Whoops!
Once the rear casing is back in place, replace the two screws in the top of the phone, followed by the black plastic piece you removed at the beginning.
Power the phone back on, and with a bit of luck, your vibration unit will be unstuck and working again.
I sent it in for warranty repair... Hopefully they don't care it's rooted!
Thanks for this though, very useful if/when it happens again
my vibration was not working also, even in the service menu to test vibration. had all the work to go back to stock to send it do warranty, but the format to stock was enough for him to start vibrating again...
Who the hell knows!
Don't worry- List of answers found Vibrate not work
It ended up being a hardware issue. Sent it off to carphone warehouse in the UK. They agreed with the fault being hardware and sent me a replacement under HTC warranty.
I sent the phone in whilst rooted, s-off and ARHD installed
Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
aliveanddead86 said:
It ended up being a hardware issue. Sent it off to carphone warehouse in the UK. They agreed with the fault being hardware and sent me a replacement under HTC warranty.
I sent the phone in whilst rooted, s-off and ARHD installed
Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How long was the turnaround time? I sent mine through the carrier here (vodafone PT) 19/12 and still haven't heard anything from them...
pmoreirac said:
How long was the turnaround time? I sent mine through the carrier here (vodafone PT) 19/12 and still haven't heard anything from them...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It took about a week to get there, then a few days sat around at their place, then they sent me a new one. So around 2 weeks.
But it wasn't over the Xmas period!
It also depends what Vodafone do with it, they might send it off to HTC direct. I have had bad experiences of them before with my desire HD. They basically lost the phone and took 3 months to replace it. "We've just moved warehouses so it'll take a bit longer than normal" was the constant line I had from them!
Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
aliveanddead86 said:
It took about a week to get there, then a few days sat around at their place, then they sent me a new one. So around 2 weeks.
But it wasn't over the Xmas period!
It also depends what Vodafone do with it, they might send it off to HTC direct. I have had bad experiences of them before with my desire HD. They basically lost the phone and took 3 months to replace it. "We've just moved warehouses so it'll take a bit longer than normal" was the constant line I had from them!
Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So strange because I've just noticed my vibrate has stopped working too. Tried running the diagnostic test and it doesn't work. The really bizarre part to me is that if you restart/power on the phone, it has a quick vibration buzz so that must imply my motor isn't broken but it's the software causing an issue. I'm running ARHD 14, but MIke's about to release the new Android M update so when that's out, I'll clean wipe and report if it's fixed
kash20 said:
So strange because I've just noticed my vibrate has stopped working too. Tried running the diagnostic test and it doesn't work. The really bizarre part to me is that if you restart/power on the phone, it has a quick vibration buzz so that must imply my motor isn't broken but it's the software causing an issue. I'm running ARHD 14, but MIke's about to release the new Android M update so when that's out, I'll clean wipe and report if it's fixed
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You haven't put power saver on? As I know that disables vibrate
Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
I've noticed banging the top of your phone agaisnt a hard surface provides a temporary fix (please don't do this and damage your device. I'm not responsible enough) it actually fixed my issue for a minute. Hopefully with enough banging I won't have to open the device up to fix it
Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
Didn't help mine
bilibox said:
I've noticed banging the top of your phone agaisnt a hard surface provides a temporary fix (please don't do this and damage your device. I'm not responsible enough) it actually fixed my issue for a minute. Hopefully with enough banging I won't have to open the device up to fix it
Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Contacted HTC have to put up $600 until they get old phone. So maybe i wait until M10 is out replace and just sale it new...
Look out of nowhere my phone also presented this problem, I will try here.
kutuup said:
I had the same issue. I had to open up the phone to fix it, but didn't need to do much more than actually opening it.
Bear in mind this will void your warranty.
Here's what I did:
Turn off the phone.
Remove the SIM and SD card trays.
Take a guitar pick or thin plastic object and gently (but with a small amount of pressure), pry up the black plastic piece on the top of the phone, it's held down with some adhesive, so you might need to peel it a bit.
You will find two size 4 torx screws under there, one on each side, recessed into the housing. Remove them.
Now use your plastic implement to start peeling off the back of the case. It works best if you dig it into the seam, then once you have it in there, run it around the edge to release the clips holding the case together.
Once the back is off, you will find the vibration module in the upper right of the circuitry you find inside, it's a small black cylinder with a silver head on it.
It's held in place with rubber bumpers on either side. Take your plastic implement and gently lift it from its housing.
Now rotate the head a few times between your fingers to loosen it up, also giving the head a very gentle push and pull - VERY GENTLE.
Now put the vibration unit carefully back into its housing.
Clip the rear casing of the phone back on. This can very tricky to get all the clips to snap back into place. Don't do what I did and use pliers. My phone now has a small dent in it. Whoops!
Once the rear casing is back in place, replace the two screws in the top of the phone, followed by the black plastic piece you removed at the beginning.
Power the phone back on, and with a bit of luck, your vibration unit will be unstuck and working again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
...