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Im a long time lurker, and been following alot of posts... let me just say that you guys really are geniuses...this is day 2 of having my tmobile tp2.. and i been reading your forums since yesterday morning non stop....
If you have the time im interested in this...
1- i seen a post on speeding up the time your usb charges your tp2. But didnt see the cab or the reg edit string.. if there is one... is there?
2- info for adding items, or removing "call history" from home screen? maybe replacing with more comon things like messaging...
3- any way to constantly keep a stock listed in the tf stock tab? instead of always having tgo type in the same stock?
4- i just bought tt6 for an older phone...obviously it wont work with tp2. and i dont want to pay $ for a new program. i spent it all on teh phone..
does WVGAFIX3 work? or any other programs top change res before starting TT6?
5- with out downloading or running programs.. when on homescreen, "camera" and "allpeople" are always on the bottom green bar.. can i replace them with somethign more usefull?
seriously....you guys are awesome...
Would also like to know how to speed up USB charging. Think i read somewhere you get 1000mah per hour with the charger and 500mah with USB charging.
yeah, home charger that came with the device is rated on the make as 1A, or 1000mah... and i do know that usb is 500mah.. or .5a standard..
but when using my tp2 while connected to usb, it sometimes gets a pop up message saying charge supply insufficient...
perhaps cable doesnt fit well in the phone? either way, usb charging is very slow...
USB ports on a computer cannot output more then 500Mah. this has nothing to do with the phone.
the Wall charger can only output 1000Mah, again, this has nothing to do with the phone. just the way it is.
if you wanted to charge the battery faster you could get a battery charger for Rccars. you will not get the battery to charge faster through conventional means.
FYI, the fastest you can safely charge the battery in the Tp2 is 1500Mah. (1C) or you will risk damaging the battery and limited recharge cycles.
By any chance are you sharing the same USB port with other devices through a USB hub?
not sharing any other devices on the usb port....
what you say makes sense, and i wouldnt use a charger more then 1000mah... not worth the risk...
MAYBE its all relative since working with it in hand constantly and charging usb wise...
ill actually test mine tomorrow and time how ling it takes to charge usb from 0 to 100%
just a note : current is measured in Amps or milliamps (ma) , mah is milliamp hours and refers to battery capacity. Chargers output ma , not mah.
Getting the insufficient power popup when trying to charge via USB means the computer isn't giving out enough current to the USB. Try using different USB ports... i've known some USB ports are able to give more power on the same computer... depending on what header theyre plugged into on the PC motherboard.
Try to find an original HTC Universal (Imate JasJar etc.) charger. It is rated for 1500ma. I use it once a month for my Touch HD (a somewhat higher amperage recharge can condition a weak battery but it gets pretty hot....so beware!) and I am still using my HD (9 months old) like it is new.
Regards,
Gordo
Hi Loueber,
in regards to point 4 I have used WVGAFIX3 with TT6, it basically swaps you phone to lower resolution leaving a black bar at the bottom of the display. But it does then allow older QVGA apps such ass TT6 to be run.
Hope that helps
This program should take care of you: http://www.nuerom.com/BlogEngine/page/nuePowernueBattery.aspx
without that the USB hub will only power up to 500ma, with that it'll go up to 1000ma like it would off a wall charger.
Not from USB, the wall charger offers a slightly higher voltage, and from that the phone knows it can draw down a higher amperage. The Nuerom power driver will maximize the power you can draw from USB, but it still will not draw over 500ma from USB.
Even if split the four wires from the USB charge cable, and hook power wires up to a 5.1V 1000ma wall charger, and the data wires to your computer it will STILL only draw 500ma. The phone has multiple different safety mechanisms to prevent draw of over 500ma from a USB port.
In short, the only way to charge at faster then 500ma is from a wall charger. Unless somoene hacks the power drivers for the TP2/Rhodium in a way that contravenes the built in safety mechanisms.
I used a female to female usb adapter.. usb to mini-b adapter.. and finally a Y adapter that came with a cheap (10$) SATA-to-USB hard drive enclosure.. It allows the HD to pull max current and not operate in wimpy .5A mode. This is useful for 7200rpm 2.5 inch hds.. but I digress.. One end is data+power, another is power only.. Pull the data plug and the charging light remains constant.. That tells me the TP2 is utilizing power from both sources. The same works for pulling the power-only plug.. I'm tempted to hook up the data port to the wall adapter and test out that 1.5A someone mentioned earlier..
I'll try it out tonight..
btw: I'm currently looking for a program to show me the power input.. So far, tbattery isn't playing nice with my 1% battery driver.
Blades said:
btw: I'm currently looking for a program to show me the power input.. So far, tbattery isn't playing nice with my 1% battery driver.
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Doesn't the previously mentioned nuePower control panel app do it?
There is some misconception on this.
In the USB connector at the phone, there is a pin that if grounded tells the phone to charge at a max of 1 amp. If it is floated, it charges at a max of 500ma. If you go over 500ma, you risk damaging some laptop USB ports, thus the reason for the limit when using a USB cable. The supplied charger grounds that pin and goes up to 1 amp.
So it doesn't matter if you have a 5.1 volt supply, or a 4.9 volt supply, or 1 amp available or 20 amps available. It will charge at 1 amp, or 500 ma. max depending on the charge mode pin.
The pinout that I have calls it pin B. It is the pin next to the ground.
http://www.hardwarebook.info/ExtUSB
I don't recall where I got it, but I have an inline plug that I can insert in the USB plug that has a switch. Flip that switch, and the current goes up to 1 amp from the USB port.
Theres a program called batteryinfo.exe located in \Windows. Its pretty simple.. but it does show the info I need. It does create a log file in \.. Safe to delete whenever (assuming app is closed). So far, I haven't seen anything above 1 amp.. Theres discharge current (how much mA your device is using) and charge current. They usually add up to around 1A.
This NC pin.. if this were grounded by the HTC AC adapter, wouldn't the other end (USB) of the cable have 5 pins?
I have the htc AV connector.. I'm sure that has all the necesary wires in the jacket. I don't want to cut it up yet tho..
It would probably be better to cut up a 'dongle'. I would make an rj45 connector for each row of pins. Once you have some cat5/5e/6 cable to play with, the possibilities are endless..
Any more info on this nc pin?
Recently bought a camping lantern that runs on a built in 6v 4.5 AH lead acid battery. It also has a USB connector which is for charging cell phones. I initially thought that the USB would be giving off a safe 5v but on testing it turns out that it is 6 volts straight from the battery.
Is this safe to use occasionally while camping? Will that extra 1 volt kill the battery or is there some mechanism inside the phone to regulate that voltage to a safe level?
Good question....hope someone has the answer for you.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda app-developers app
executionist said:
Recently bought a camping lantern that runs on a built in 6v 4.5 AH lead acid battery. It also has a USB connector which is for charging cell phones. I initially thought that the USB would be giving off a safe 5v but on testing it turns out that it is 6 volts straight from the battery.
Is this safe to use occasionally while camping? Will that extra 1 volt kill the battery or is there some mechanism inside the phone to regulate that voltage to a safe level?
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Of course there should be.You get more than 6v in a power socket around the house.
Gkikas said:
Of course there should be.You get more than 6v in a power socket around the house.
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No one plugs their phone directly to the wall socket :/ Thats what the charger is for, it only gives 5v to the phone. Just need to know if it can regulate that 6v to a safe level.
*edit. I think no one here would know about the hardware aspects of a phone. Can someone point me to a forum or anywhere where they may know the answer to a question like this?
May I asked how you measured this?
I'd love to check what output my 12v chargers are outputting
TieNN89 said:
May I asked how you measured this?
I'd love to check what output my 12v chargers are outputting
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A multimeter and a stripped usb cable
executionist said:
A multimeter and a stripped usb cable
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ah yeah
My brain has already flicked off for the day LOL
if you use IRC, try the freenode server in the ##electronics channel. they should help you out there. pretty nice ppl in general there.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda app-developers app
?
I'm interested as well. Will 6 volts @ 500mAh fry the phone?
Ok, I am an electronic engineer so a few comments.
I have no idea what kind of charging circuit is in our phones, could probably look it up but ..... in my opinion only 10% above 5V is to be considered safe.
Now you are talking about a 6V battery. That battery is not always 6V. A nice example is the 12V battery in your car which is 12.8V when fully charged. Another example are the cells inside our phones which have a nominal Voltage of 3.7V but are charged to 4.2V.
The Voltage they put on those things is the nominal Voltage.
I would check if there is no electronic circuit in that lamp since I would not connect anything directly to a battery at all.
If you go camping I would check this thing coolook pb-2000. Insert 4 x 18650 batts and you can do a couple of recharges. Very good box for the price and you can salvage 18650 from broken laptop batt packs ... but google and youtube a bit before you do that to make sure you do it the right way.
I'm also interested, any news?
You can see the specs of this type of batteries here. The 6V is nominal, as already mentioned above. The maximum noted is 6.9V and TBH, i would be rather reluctant to test is my SGS3 charging circuit likes the idea of being fed with 40% higher voltage than usual.
Are you sure there is nothing in the lantern that would limit the voltage under load? Could be something as simple as 2 diodes in series, in this case measuring the voltage on the open circuit, totally unloaded, with a DMM that barely draws microamps from it, would show the battery voltage. Try drawing some current from it (use a resistor, a USB LED lamp, etc) while measuring. I seriously doubt a self-respecting vendor would setup a USB port on that thing that would potentially output 40% more than specs, really.
PS: if the port is, indeed, fed straight from that battery, i would rather avoid hooking my SGS3 to it. Even though, it would probably survive.
---------- Post added at 07:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:59 PM ----------
lukesan said:
I have no idea what kind of charging circuit is in our phones...
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MAX77686. Good luck finding the datasheet. And good luck trying to guess if there is anything else potentially fed straight from the USB connector. The bottom line is - i wouldn't dare
Solder this to red wire https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zener_diode
OFC you need 5V model
GR0S said:
Solder this to red wire https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zener_diode
OFC you need 5V model
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Not if it doesn't have a resistor in series. And wait. if the battery is at 6.8 Volt and you have a 5.1 Volt zener and it is charging at 1 Amp so you will need a power resistor. You will have a lot of loss of energy because it will go away in heat.
You could use a dc-dc convertor but believe me forget about it and get one of those charging banks where you can put in your own cells.
lukesan said:
Not if it doesn't have a resistor in series. And wait. if the battery is at 6.8 Volt and you have a 5.1 Volt zener and it is charging at 1 Amp so you will need a power resistor. You will have a lot of loss of energy because it will go away in heat.
You could use a dc-dc convertor but believe me forget about it and get one of those charging banks where you can put in your own cells.
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I'm not sure about how practical it would be to be cutting usb cables and wiring zener diodes just to use this lamp....
I think I had a charger that supplied too much voltage (I'm not positive I didn't measure the voltage output or anything), but I can say that the phone did not like it. It would eventually charge somewhat, but the touch screen wouldn't work and would go bezerk if touched lol.
Again I'm not sure how much V it supplied, but I would assume it was more than 6V. It didn't really damage the phones either, I would try it.
Here's your answer, definitively:
6v at the source (the lantern in this case) will probably be 5v or less at the phone because of the resistance in the USB cable itself. The longer the cable is the higher the resistance will be and thus the more voltage you lose to it. Also, the cheaper the cable (the thinner the wires) the more voltage you will lose per foot.
Here's some specs you can plug into THIS VOLTAGE CALCULATOR:
The USB definition specifies up to 5.3v.
Most USB cables will use 30awg wire or maybe 28awg for the better ones.
Depending on which of the sources I've read, some USB cables/chargers use one pair of wires for charging, and some will use two pairs. You can see that using two pairs of conductors drastically improves the voltage transmission but even still, at 28awg over a 6foot cable you're still losing .75v which puts you at 5.25v and well within the USB spec.
So the lantern is fine to use with your phone with your average 6-foot USB cord.
If you're like me and prefer 10-15 foot USB cords in some places you would actually benefit from a 6v or even 7v power supply at the wall. I've found that even on the OEM Samsung wall charger, when I use a 10-foot cable I don't get enough juice to actually charge my S4. With the screen on the battery charge level still drops. The Galaxy Charge Rate app shows something like 500ma charge rate and that's because there's not enough voltage / too much voltage-drop across the long cable. (Radio Shack sells a modular, adjustable voltage wall-wart power supply as well as USB and micro-USB adapters for it. I'm starting to experiment with it and the long cables.)
USB voltage vs charging current
This is an old thread, but I can confirm that my moto G charges at 6v. Apparently the original Motorola charger outputs 5.75v. I hooked up a variable power supply to my phone. The data lines are shorted together to indicate a high current power source is present. The moto G will test load the power supply before settling on a stable charging current. One that does not cause the voltage to sag excessively. When I applied 5v the charging current was approximately 600 mA. At 6v the charging current was approx 1200 mA. The charging current was measured directly on the phone using an app called ampere.
So I conclude that Motorola use this tactic to ensure their phones charge fastest with their chargers. On the up side, its fun watching my phone go from 40% to 100% in 45 minutes
Can someone tell me why is it that when i charge my phone when USB connected to PC its takes hours together to charge and Wall Charger takes 1/4th of that time why is that can anybody tell me what is the login behind it and which is best way to charge ?
USB only outputs 5v, which is why it takes makes longer. You have more power outputted from the ac adapter therefore it charges quicker. Simple as that. They will both eventually charge the device, but it's recommended you use the wall charger all it's faster, no one likes to wait
+1
U cannot compare usb charging with ur charger as output voltage varies across both n btw usb is jst an alternative for charger it's not a replacement
Sent from my LT22i using Tapatalk 2
You can use a custom kernel and change charging current.
Sent from my GT-N7100
Ok thanks Guys to know what is the main difference
Technically, voltage has little to do with charging. The amperage is what counts. USB on a computer gives ~500 milliamp, where ac chargers give 1-2 amps
Sent from my SGH-I997 using xda app-developers app
For a more detailed answer...
All compatible chargers output the same voltage, 5 volts. (Otherwise they just would burn out the charging circuits in the phone. It can happen both if there's too much volts and if there's too little, but for very different reasons.) However, voltage is not the only characteristic of electricity, the other most important is current, that is, amperes. Think of volts as 'water pressure' and amperes as 'amount of water pumped per minute' through a water pipe -- with real water, those are connected, with electricity they're quite separate.
Every source of stabilized electricity you will find in any kind of power supply will have a set voltage it outputs electricity at, and maximum current it can output. Trying to draw more current than it can supply can damage the power supply, so your phone limits the current it attempts to draw when it detects a standard USB port -- to what the USB standard says it should be able to safely supply. For standard ports, it's 500mA. Galaxy Note II by default plays it safe and draws 425mA. The stock AC charger is rated at 2000mA, and Note draws 1700mA when it detects one. This specifically affects the speed of charging -- AC chargers will charge battery faster, because three times more power gets in.
The USB standard was written before everyone and their mother started using it as a charger, and today, USB ports can usually handle more than 425mA, and on some computers they can supply just as much power as the stock AC charger. There are a few standard ways to detect how much current can a phone safely draw from an USB socket, but not all of them are universally accepted or correctly implemented, so the phone always plays it safe when it can't be sure. If you install a custom kernel, you can directly tell it how much power to draw if you know your USB port can handle it.
:good: :good::good::good::good::good:
aukhan said:
:good: :good::good::good::good::good:
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You can use the app Galaxy Charging Current (GCC) from the S3 thread which can measure the output of the incoming current. It will also allow you to detect faulty cables and chargers, as you will be able to see different ratings with different cables and chargers.
Testing on typical USB ports will get you a reading of 460, while the original charger and a good cable will give you 1800 (about the max current draw for the Note 2).
If you use a known good charger and get a lousy reading, it indicates a bad cable. I once had a cable give a readout of 100. I promptly threw it away.
Yes i am using that thanks nyways
I was charging my phone overnight and a power outage happened. By the time the power came back I wasnt awake so I couldnt take off the charger. Will my phone be harmed by any means?
Note: I have a proper electrical fuse(i dont know the english name... Sorry bout that. The one which will shut the electric down if there is an insane amount of electric.)
It's the same as plugging in and out the charger. Power goes off and comes up. Nothing wrong with that.
If the concern is a power surge (after the power interruption), the phone's charger regulates the voltage and amps it outputs.
On the charger, you will see the input and output volts and amps. On the stock charger, input voltage can range from 100 to 240V; and output is regulated to 5V and 1Amp.
From what I'm reading, a power surge (after a power outage) is only around 5-10 volts above the "normal" voltage. And mains voltage is often less than its supposed to be (rated voltage) in many cases. For instance, the standard home voltage in US is 120V, but may actually be as low as 107V. So a surge may not even be above the rated 120 voltage, anyway.
Lightning strike is a different story. But as you mentioned, your home's circuit breakers or fuses prevent huge overcurrents; otherwise every electrical appliance in your house would be destroyed.
Just a quick question about the power consumption on these sticks. I'm aware it's supposed to require 1A. Most TVs have a 0.5A USB port. Now I'm pretty sure I tested them before and got the low power message. However tonight on two different TVs, two different Fire Sticks, but using shorter leads (1x 1m and 1x ~0.1m) and both appear to work fine. Not even a lower power/incompatible charger message!
Am I missing something or harming the devices this way? My theory is the shorter leads loose less juice by the time it reaches the stick.
I have no idea about their power consumption, just wanted to add, that i plugged in my stick into the usb out of a sat receiver. When checking on updates, it gave the low power message as well. But plugged in long enough, it updated anyway (that was at the time of the stagefright vulnerabilities).
To the question: the shorter cables or with less resistivity could well be the answer. Unless, if either the tv/my sat usb out varies in peak (eg. when turning on?) or the stick is "charged" after some time.
The power brick that comes with it says it's 5 watt, 5 volt, 1.0 amp.
So any USB port that outputs constant 1 amp should work fine.
Ludacrisvp said:
The power brick that comes with it says it's 5 watt, 5 volt, 1.0 amp.
So any USB port that outputs constant 1 amp should work fine.
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That's what I was led to believe. However it works with 0.5amp w/ shorter lead - with no errors. Both a 1meter and 0.1meter have worked successfully for me.
santamanga said:
I have no idea about their power consumption, just wanted to add, that i plugged in my stick into the usb out of a sat receiver. When checking on updates, it gave the low power message as well. But plugged in long enough, it updated anyway (that was at the time of the stagefright vulnerabilities).
To the question: the shorter cables or with less resistivity could well be the answer. Unless, if either the tv/my sat usb out varies in peak (eg. when turning on?) or the stick is "charged" after some time.
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I've seen the low power message with other chargers, and even the official Amazon charger a few times, but not once message with a shorter lead on 0.5amp USB
I am running the Stick with my HDD-USB-Port at my old Samsung. No need for a separate PSU in particular