Related
anyone else experiencing a problem with car chargers? my phone charges fine off of wall and usb charging but as soon as i plug in my car charger is lights up, 2 secs later light goes off and after that it just keeps doing it with wall and usb. i have to reboot my phone and/or pull my batter out......anyone have a solution for this?
The car charger probably can't supply enough amps or it is under/over volts causing the charge circuit to freak out.
Also noticed this behavior if phone is too hot. Refuses to charge with flashing orange light until temperature falls below a certain threshold... Seems to be around 100 degrees.
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App
Bump!
Noticed this twice in the last couple of weeks. My wall chargers (supplied, aftermarket, Zune, etc) all work fine, as does charging from any USB port.
Car charger, on the other hand, both a Sprint/HTC aftermarket and a Walmart special, seem to have some troubles.
The EVO registers as charging, shows the charging icon, and admits to charging (AC). However, the charge never increases, and using the phone will actually decrease the charge. Left plugged in, the phone will totally discharge and automatically power off. All while the amber charging light is solidly on.
EVO: Rooted stock 2.2 with netarchy's latest BFS kernel.
Car: 2008 Nissan Maxima. Voltage fairly steady on the 12v receptacles.
What gives!
Have you tried car charging it on different kernels?
Could it be that the car doesn't provide clean, consistant power? With usb, power goes through a vreg circuit (the psu, the mobo), on a wall charger, there is a vreg circuit within the adapter that would compensate for fluctuations in AC voltage.
If I'm not mistaken, the car-to-usb adaptors are little more than a resistor circuit to cut the voltage down. The 12V provided by a car will always fluctuate, so maybe the simple resistor circuit doesn't provide adequate compensation.
Just my $0.02
Anybody come across a car charger that is high current like the HTC wall charger?
Most car chargers are classified as "rapid".
Anything designed to charge an iPad (2.1A versus the typical 1A) will give you plenty of juice. I use the Scosche reVIVE II with Pandora, Bluetooth, and GPS Navigation all on and still have enough power to positively charge my battery.
Fair warning, though, this will cause the phone to get real hot (I've had the overheating warning lights flash twice so far), so make sure you have plenty of ventilation around the phone, keep it out of the sun, etc etc.
Any charger that is at least 1 amp. will do. The phone 'pulls' a max of around 0.85 amps. No need for more then 1 amp.
If it has a replaceable cable, it must be the heaviest gauge, shortest cable, that you can use. I have seen long cheap thin cables that drop over a volt, and the Thunderbolt charges really slowly.
The charger or cable have to state that they for rapid charging. To rapid charge, you need to have the USB D- and D+ lines shorted. If that are not shorted, the Thunderbolt limits the charge current to around 0.35 amps. thinking it is connected to a PC. If they are shorted, letting the Thunderbolt know it can be rapid charged, you get up there around 0.85. You can easily modify the charger for high rate if it is good for at least an amp.
And in the end is heat. Heat and lots of it. It will damage the battery. So put it out of the sun and in cool air like near a vent.
Motorola Rapid Charger on Amazon is the best. I bought two.
http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Vehi...Q9CA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1309959388&sr=8-1
Review off Amazon
Genuine Motorola charger in retail packaging. 4.75-5.25V 950mA output, works w/ most micro-USB phones like Incredible, etc., June 11, 2010
By
David Pearlman "sound fanatic" (Arlington, MA) - See all my reviews
(TOP 500 REVIEWER) (VINE VOICE) (REAL NAME)
Amazon Verified Purchase(What's this?)
There are so many sketchy sellers selling phone chargers out there, that it can be a bit scary. The problem is that if the charger is poorly made, the output of the charger can be out of spec and can, in some cases, fry the phone you connect to it.
For that reason, when it comes to phone chargers, you should stick to name brands. (They are all made in China, but the name brand ones are usually subject to stricter QA).
When I found this charger on Amazon, SOLD BY AMAZON, I jumped on it. It's a MICRO USB car charger, made for Motorola and sold under the Motorola name, in retail packaging. The rated output is 4.75-5.25V and 950mA.
This charger should work fine with most any phone that uses the MICRO USB connector. The key number to pay attention to is the second one, the rated amperage. This is the MAXIMUM amount of current that the phone can request from the charger. A typical USB port on a PC provides as little as 100mA, and few provide more than 500mA. So this charger should charge your phone faster than when it's connected to a PC. A few phones out now can use up to 1000mA. But that just means they CAN use that amount. If 950mA is provided, they'll still charge, just a bit more slowly.
Note that the amperage (second number) merely tells you how much the charger CAN supply, if requested. The phone itself is responsible for asking for the current. That is to say, if this charger can provide 950mA, but your phone can only use 300mA--no problem. Your phone asks for 300mA and the charger provides all of what is requested. If, on the other hand, your phone can use 1000mA, this charger will provide all it can, which is 950mA--a wee bit less than the max asked for. That's also not a problem; it just means your phone will charge a little bit (not much in this case) more slowly. The rated voltage for this charger is presented in a range of 4.75-5.25V. The "ideal" voltage for a USB charger of any type if 5V. And most chargers for home use are rated right at 5V. But car chargers work in a noisier environment and thus you have the range. This is where a cheapo charger can really do damage, as some of them are poorly regulated and can provide voltages that are WAY out of spec. Again, when you can get a name brand charger from a seller you can trust (Amazon) for such a reasonable price, it's very foolish to consider the cheapo no-names.
This is an excellent quality name brand travel micro USB charger at a price that beats the no-name junk from third party sellers. What's not to like?
BE SURE TO ORDER IT FROM AMAZON AND NOT ONE OF THE THIRD PARTY SELLERS, as some of those have been known to make mistakes with respect to what they ship relative to the listing. I can confirm that Amazon is shipping the P513 /89143N charger, as pictured.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ddgarcia05 said:
Motorola Rapid Charger on Amazon is the best. I bought two.
http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Vehi...Q9CA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1309959388&sr=8-1
Review off Amazon
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've been contemplating buying this one, but I'd like to ask you if it charges your battery with navigation+music going? I have a usb charger in my truck, and with both of those going it just manages to keep my battery level where its at, sometimes losing a % or two.
kr0n1c said:
I've been contemplating buying this one, but I'd like to ask you if it charges your battery with navigation+music going? I have a usb charger in my truck, and with both of those going it just manages to keep my battery level where its at, sometimes losing a % or two.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From what I've read in the past here on XDA and on the reviews for the charger (on amazon) you shouldn't have a problem. The second review for the charger on amazon states that the reviewer was looking for a charger which actually charged his phone will using GPS and that he found it. It's a very well built charger and cheap. It's made my Motorola and sold by Amazon so buy with confidence.
kr0n1c said:
I've been contemplating buying this one, but I'd like to ask you if it charges your battery with navigation+music going? I have a usb charger in my truck, and with both of those going it just manages to keep my battery level where its at, sometimes losing a % or two.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It does indeed charge. I've had it since my original Droid and was concerned when I updated to the TB but it will charge the TB no matter what you're doing (I've had Nav running while on a phone call with BT and searching the internet and it still showed it was charging). Just be prepared for your phone to get HOT!! Great charger.
worwig said:
Any charger that is at least 1 amp. will do. The phone 'pulls' a max of around 0.85 amps. No need for more then 1 amp.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually, the phone will pull more than 850 mA. You're probably basing that on using a battery monitor, which only shows the flow of current into/out of the battery. I've seen 800 mA into the battery at the same time I have display, GPS and a phone call going, which is definitely more than an additional 50 mA. It wouldn't surprise me if the phone can take advantage of something more than 1A, since I see a battery drain of more than 200 mA with all of that going when not on the charger.
kr0n1c said:
I've been contemplating buying this one, but I'd like to ask you if it charges your battery with navigation+music going? I have a usb charger in my truck, and with both of those going it just manages to keep my battery level where its at, sometimes losing a % or two.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have that Motorola charger and am a heavy GPS user. It charges the battery as if it were plugged into the wall. You'll be very satisfied.
mike.s said:
Actually, the phone will pull more than 850 mA. You're probably basing that on using a battery monitor, which only shows the flow of current into/out of the battery. I've seen 800 mA into the battery at the same time I have display, GPS and a phone call going, which is definitely more than an additional 50 mA. It wouldn't surprise me if the phone can take advantage of something more than 1A, since I see a battery drain of more than 200 mA with all of that going when not on the charger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, that was measured at the 5 volt power supply, based upon a lab power supply. I did a lot of experimenting when I developed the charger and phone mount for my motorcycle. And to get the 850ma from the power supply, I used a very short, maybe 8 inch, USB cable, and a charge voltage close to 5.3 volts. With 5 volts at the power supply, it would only pull about 650ma from the power supply. That was due to the voltage drop in the USB cable. With the 5.3 volts at the power supply, I was getting close to an actual 5 volts at the Thunderbolt. I never measured the current at the battery, but I could see it being a bit more then the 850ma in, if there were a switch mode supply in there.
Though I like the Battery Monitor widget as a rough guide, I never tested to see if the battery current and the battery monitor are accurate.
Does anyone know if the included HTC ac adapter and cable will charge faster than using your pc with the included USB cable?
happimeal said:
Does anyone know if the included HTC ac adapter and cable will charge faster than using your pc with the included USB cable?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Absolutely.
A PC USB port is limited to under 500ma. The Thunderbolt appears to to limit PC USB draw to about 350ma. I haven't measured the actual current in the HTC charger, but it is a high current charger, and charges my Thunderbolt very quickly. Battery Monitor widget shows high battery charge rates. I suspect it is getting near the max rate up near 1 amp.
worwig said:
Absolutely.
A PC USB port is limited to under 500ma. The Thunderbolt appears to to limit PC USB draw to about 350ma. I haven't measured the actual current in the HTC charger, but it is a high current charger, and charges my Thunderbolt very quickly. Battery Monitor widget shows high battery charge rates. I suspect it is getting near the max rate up near 1 amp.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
HTC charger states 5V/1A on the charger itself.
You can use the Palm car charger for $3.75+tax, free shipping. it is 5V/1A, same rating as the HTC wall charger.
Go here for 25% off
http://www.wireless.att.com/cell-ph...otion/accessories.jsp?source=EC0A0011600jtl10
Add product here, must add to cart to see 25% discount.
http://www.wireless.att.com/cell-ph...027&q_sku=sku4720234&q_manufacturer=&q_model=
Also, if so inclined, you can lop the top off of the charger so that you can use any usb cable (ipod, iphone, anything)
dpham00 said:
HTC charger states 5V/1A on the charger itself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That doesn't mean much. That is the MAX the charger can output. The amount that the Thunderbolt will pull varies. If it thinks it is plugged into a USB, it will be less then 500ma. even if the charger is capable of 10 amps.
worwig said:
That doesn't mean much. That is the MAX the charger can output. The amount that the Thunderbolt will pull varies. If it thinks it is plugged into a USB, it will be less then 500ma. even if the charger is capable of 10 amps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i have used the Palm car charger, checking with bmw, it shows around 850ma, same as on my htc charger.
worwig said:
Any charger that is at least 1 amp. will do. The phone 'pulls' a max of around 0.85 amps. No need for more then 1 amp.
If it has a replaceable cable, it must be the heaviest gauge, shortest cable, that you can use. I have seen long cheap thin cables that drop over a volt, and the Thunderbolt charges really slowly.
The charger or cable have to state that they for rapid charging. To rapid charge, you need to have the USB D- and D+ lines shorted. If that are not shorted, the Thunderbolt limits the charge current to around 0.35 amps. thinking it is connected to a PC. If they are shorted, letting the Thunderbolt know it can be rapid charged, you get up there around 0.85. You can easily modify the charger for high rate if it is good for at least an amp.
And in the end is heat. Heat and lots of it. It will damage the battery. So put it out of the sun and in cool air like near a vent.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
um, i am aware that any charger that will do 1A will do. that was my question, what car charger will do 1A. Alot of times, they dont have that info listed on pages that are selling them.
and the whole thing about the D- and D+ shorted together, i do not believe. the HTC cable that came with the phone does rapid charging and i use it for data all the time too. if they D- and D+ was shorted, i would not be able to use it for data transfer. not unless the HTC charger shorts them internally inside the charger.
leoingle said:
unless the HTC charger shorts them internally inside the charger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bingo!!
leoingle said:
um, i am aware that any charger that will do 1A will do. that was my question, what car charger will do 1A. Alot of times, they dont have that info listed on pages that are selling them.
and the whole thing about the D- and D+ shorted together, i do not believe. the HTC cable that came with the phone does rapid charging and i use it for data all the time too. if they D- and D+ was shorted, i would not be able to use it for data transfer. not unless the HTC charger shorts them internally inside the charger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, it is hard to find the current info online or even on the package sometimes.
Yes, it is shorted in the charger. I have seen it done in the cable and the cable can't be used for data of course. Not sure why anyone would do that, but they do.
Hi,
I've lost my charger, and I don't know if I can charge it with a charger with 5v - 1A or not, what I do know is that charging with USB is 5v - 500mA.
What's the power of the SE Arc original charger?
On the charger it says output 5V 1A
Is that what your looking for
It's Exactelly what I'm looking for thank you very much
The original SE charger for the arc is the GreenHeart charger EP800. It has got an output of 5V; 850mA.
As far as I know, there's no SE charger with an output of 1A. I've seen chargers with 500mA, 700mA and the 850mA.
My charger got fried during a power surge while holidaying in India so after asking around on the forum, I bought a Nokia AC-10N charger with an output of 5V, 1200mA. I've been using it without any problems. Pretty happy with it. Charges the phone much faster.
Thank you, that helps very much, but I heared charging the phone with higher voltage or higher Amperage can charge it faster, but it lowers the battery life on the long terme, it's appreciated to charge it with lower power in order to preserve battery life
MehdiArc said:
Thank you, that helps very much, but I heared charging the phone with higher voltage or higher Amperage can charge it faster, but it lowers the battery life on the long terme, it's appreciated to charge it with lower power in order to preserve battery life
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Totally true on all counts. You can really use ANY usb charger to charge your Arc, but the higher the mA the faster it will charge. And the higher the mA, the less overall life your battery will have. If it's normally supposed to be good for 5000 recharges, it might drop to 4000 recharges (just numbers pulled out of thin air).
The "Normal" standard for USB power is 0.5A (or 500mA). The iPad for example uses 1.0A, or twice as much as standard. Now in the iPad's case, it refuses to charge with anything less. I don't know if that's true for the Arc or not...if so, and the SE charger is rated at 850mA, then that's probably as low as you'd want to go just to be on the safe side.
Personally, I'm willing to use the iPad's charger and charge a bit faster for a bit lower useful battery lifetime. A new battery I can buy....time spent waiting for my phone to be charged I can't get back
The amperage rating on a charger defines the maximum current the charger is capable of supplying. A 1A charger doesnt force 1A down the throat of whatever's connected to it, if you connect something can only manage to pull a maximum of 500mA then it will only get 500mA.
Consumer power supplies are generally constant voltage. E.g. a 5V charger will supply 5V to anything connected to it. The amount of current that the device will draw at 5V is the amount it was designed to draw, up to the limit that the charger can supply. If the charger cant supply enough, generally you just get slower charging (though some poorly designed devices will just refuse to charge at all). What *will* tend to destroy your device quickly is a voltage mismatch, e.g. connecting a 5V phone to a 12V charger.
You can get constant current power supplies. These ramp up the voltage in order to force the required current out regardless of what's attached to it (even if that's a human being). They are scary.
daveybaby said:
The amperage rating on a charger defines the maximum current the charger is capable of supplying. A 1A charger doesnt force 1A down the throat of whatever's connected to it, if you connect something can only manage to pull a maximum of 500mA then it will only get 500mA.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactelly what I was thinking, thanks.
Now I think I can charge my Arc with 1A without any problem, since it's gonna take only 850 mA from it
Recently bought a camping lantern that runs on a built in 6v 4.5 AH lead acid battery. It also has a USB connector which is for charging cell phones. I initially thought that the USB would be giving off a safe 5v but on testing it turns out that it is 6 volts straight from the battery.
Is this safe to use occasionally while camping? Will that extra 1 volt kill the battery or is there some mechanism inside the phone to regulate that voltage to a safe level?
Good question....hope someone has the answer for you.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda app-developers app
executionist said:
Recently bought a camping lantern that runs on a built in 6v 4.5 AH lead acid battery. It also has a USB connector which is for charging cell phones. I initially thought that the USB would be giving off a safe 5v but on testing it turns out that it is 6 volts straight from the battery.
Is this safe to use occasionally while camping? Will that extra 1 volt kill the battery or is there some mechanism inside the phone to regulate that voltage to a safe level?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course there should be.You get more than 6v in a power socket around the house.
Gkikas said:
Of course there should be.You get more than 6v in a power socket around the house.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No one plugs their phone directly to the wall socket :/ Thats what the charger is for, it only gives 5v to the phone. Just need to know if it can regulate that 6v to a safe level.
*edit. I think no one here would know about the hardware aspects of a phone. Can someone point me to a forum or anywhere where they may know the answer to a question like this?
May I asked how you measured this?
I'd love to check what output my 12v chargers are outputting
TieNN89 said:
May I asked how you measured this?
I'd love to check what output my 12v chargers are outputting
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A multimeter and a stripped usb cable
executionist said:
A multimeter and a stripped usb cable
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ah yeah
My brain has already flicked off for the day LOL
if you use IRC, try the freenode server in the ##electronics channel. they should help you out there. pretty nice ppl in general there.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda app-developers app
?
I'm interested as well. Will 6 volts @ 500mAh fry the phone?
Ok, I am an electronic engineer so a few comments.
I have no idea what kind of charging circuit is in our phones, could probably look it up but ..... in my opinion only 10% above 5V is to be considered safe.
Now you are talking about a 6V battery. That battery is not always 6V. A nice example is the 12V battery in your car which is 12.8V when fully charged. Another example are the cells inside our phones which have a nominal Voltage of 3.7V but are charged to 4.2V.
The Voltage they put on those things is the nominal Voltage.
I would check if there is no electronic circuit in that lamp since I would not connect anything directly to a battery at all.
If you go camping I would check this thing coolook pb-2000. Insert 4 x 18650 batts and you can do a couple of recharges. Very good box for the price and you can salvage 18650 from broken laptop batt packs ... but google and youtube a bit before you do that to make sure you do it the right way.
I'm also interested, any news?
You can see the specs of this type of batteries here. The 6V is nominal, as already mentioned above. The maximum noted is 6.9V and TBH, i would be rather reluctant to test is my SGS3 charging circuit likes the idea of being fed with 40% higher voltage than usual.
Are you sure there is nothing in the lantern that would limit the voltage under load? Could be something as simple as 2 diodes in series, in this case measuring the voltage on the open circuit, totally unloaded, with a DMM that barely draws microamps from it, would show the battery voltage. Try drawing some current from it (use a resistor, a USB LED lamp, etc) while measuring. I seriously doubt a self-respecting vendor would setup a USB port on that thing that would potentially output 40% more than specs, really.
PS: if the port is, indeed, fed straight from that battery, i would rather avoid hooking my SGS3 to it. Even though, it would probably survive.
---------- Post added at 07:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:59 PM ----------
lukesan said:
I have no idea what kind of charging circuit is in our phones...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
MAX77686. Good luck finding the datasheet. And good luck trying to guess if there is anything else potentially fed straight from the USB connector. The bottom line is - i wouldn't dare
Solder this to red wire https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zener_diode
OFC you need 5V model
GR0S said:
Solder this to red wire https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zener_diode
OFC you need 5V model
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not if it doesn't have a resistor in series. And wait. if the battery is at 6.8 Volt and you have a 5.1 Volt zener and it is charging at 1 Amp so you will need a power resistor. You will have a lot of loss of energy because it will go away in heat.
You could use a dc-dc convertor but believe me forget about it and get one of those charging banks where you can put in your own cells.
lukesan said:
Not if it doesn't have a resistor in series. And wait. if the battery is at 6.8 Volt and you have a 5.1 Volt zener and it is charging at 1 Amp so you will need a power resistor. You will have a lot of loss of energy because it will go away in heat.
You could use a dc-dc convertor but believe me forget about it and get one of those charging banks where you can put in your own cells.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure about how practical it would be to be cutting usb cables and wiring zener diodes just to use this lamp....
I think I had a charger that supplied too much voltage (I'm not positive I didn't measure the voltage output or anything), but I can say that the phone did not like it. It would eventually charge somewhat, but the touch screen wouldn't work and would go bezerk if touched lol.
Again I'm not sure how much V it supplied, but I would assume it was more than 6V. It didn't really damage the phones either, I would try it.
Here's your answer, definitively:
6v at the source (the lantern in this case) will probably be 5v or less at the phone because of the resistance in the USB cable itself. The longer the cable is the higher the resistance will be and thus the more voltage you lose to it. Also, the cheaper the cable (the thinner the wires) the more voltage you will lose per foot.
Here's some specs you can plug into THIS VOLTAGE CALCULATOR:
The USB definition specifies up to 5.3v.
Most USB cables will use 30awg wire or maybe 28awg for the better ones.
Depending on which of the sources I've read, some USB cables/chargers use one pair of wires for charging, and some will use two pairs. You can see that using two pairs of conductors drastically improves the voltage transmission but even still, at 28awg over a 6foot cable you're still losing .75v which puts you at 5.25v and well within the USB spec.
So the lantern is fine to use with your phone with your average 6-foot USB cord.
If you're like me and prefer 10-15 foot USB cords in some places you would actually benefit from a 6v or even 7v power supply at the wall. I've found that even on the OEM Samsung wall charger, when I use a 10-foot cable I don't get enough juice to actually charge my S4. With the screen on the battery charge level still drops. The Galaxy Charge Rate app shows something like 500ma charge rate and that's because there's not enough voltage / too much voltage-drop across the long cable. (Radio Shack sells a modular, adjustable voltage wall-wart power supply as well as USB and micro-USB adapters for it. I'm starting to experiment with it and the long cables.)
USB voltage vs charging current
This is an old thread, but I can confirm that my moto G charges at 6v. Apparently the original Motorola charger outputs 5.75v. I hooked up a variable power supply to my phone. The data lines are shorted together to indicate a high current power source is present. The moto G will test load the power supply before settling on a stable charging current. One that does not cause the voltage to sag excessively. When I applied 5v the charging current was approximately 600 mA. At 6v the charging current was approx 1200 mA. The charging current was measured directly on the phone using an app called ampere.
So I conclude that Motorola use this tactic to ensure their phones charge fastest with their chargers. On the up side, its fun watching my phone go from 40% to 100% in 45 minutes
Can someone tell me why is it that when i charge my phone when USB connected to PC its takes hours together to charge and Wall Charger takes 1/4th of that time why is that can anybody tell me what is the login behind it and which is best way to charge ?
USB only outputs 5v, which is why it takes makes longer. You have more power outputted from the ac adapter therefore it charges quicker. Simple as that. They will both eventually charge the device, but it's recommended you use the wall charger all it's faster, no one likes to wait
+1
U cannot compare usb charging with ur charger as output voltage varies across both n btw usb is jst an alternative for charger it's not a replacement
Sent from my LT22i using Tapatalk 2
You can use a custom kernel and change charging current.
Sent from my GT-N7100
Ok thanks Guys to know what is the main difference
Technically, voltage has little to do with charging. The amperage is what counts. USB on a computer gives ~500 milliamp, where ac chargers give 1-2 amps
Sent from my SGH-I997 using xda app-developers app
For a more detailed answer...
All compatible chargers output the same voltage, 5 volts. (Otherwise they just would burn out the charging circuits in the phone. It can happen both if there's too much volts and if there's too little, but for very different reasons.) However, voltage is not the only characteristic of electricity, the other most important is current, that is, amperes. Think of volts as 'water pressure' and amperes as 'amount of water pumped per minute' through a water pipe -- with real water, those are connected, with electricity they're quite separate.
Every source of stabilized electricity you will find in any kind of power supply will have a set voltage it outputs electricity at, and maximum current it can output. Trying to draw more current than it can supply can damage the power supply, so your phone limits the current it attempts to draw when it detects a standard USB port -- to what the USB standard says it should be able to safely supply. For standard ports, it's 500mA. Galaxy Note II by default plays it safe and draws 425mA. The stock AC charger is rated at 2000mA, and Note draws 1700mA when it detects one. This specifically affects the speed of charging -- AC chargers will charge battery faster, because three times more power gets in.
The USB standard was written before everyone and their mother started using it as a charger, and today, USB ports can usually handle more than 425mA, and on some computers they can supply just as much power as the stock AC charger. There are a few standard ways to detect how much current can a phone safely draw from an USB socket, but not all of them are universally accepted or correctly implemented, so the phone always plays it safe when it can't be sure. If you install a custom kernel, you can directly tell it how much power to draw if you know your USB port can handle it.
:good: :good::good::good::good::good:
aukhan said:
:good: :good::good::good::good::good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can use the app Galaxy Charging Current (GCC) from the S3 thread which can measure the output of the incoming current. It will also allow you to detect faulty cables and chargers, as you will be able to see different ratings with different cables and chargers.
Testing on typical USB ports will get you a reading of 460, while the original charger and a good cable will give you 1800 (about the max current draw for the Note 2).
If you use a known good charger and get a lousy reading, it indicates a bad cable. I once had a cable give a readout of 100. I promptly threw it away.
Yes i am using that thanks nyways