A while ago I broke the screen on my Nexus 7 LET, I ordered a new screen on ebay and installed it and all was good, except for Wi-Fi. During the repair I damaged on of the cables (the one one the left, looking from the back, as per the attached photo) I tried replacing the wire, but it didn't work (I didn't really expect it to) then I tried swapping it with the similar one on the right. Success! I had Wi-Fi back.
I think the cable I cannibalised was probably for the GPS, given that's no longer working.
I've found this site http://www.asusparts.eu/en/partfinder/Asus/Pad/Nexus/ME571KL (Nexus 7C 2013)#Cable but there are no pictures so I work out which one to get. Is there a repair manual? Or a better parts list? Or even an alternate supplier?
Alternatively if someone has a dead (water damaged?) LTE version I could cannibalise for parts I might be interested in buying it, my back cover was badly cracked in the drop, when I broke the screen.
Related
I recently recieved a T-Mobile Touch Pro 2 from a trusted E-Bay seller. When I recieved the phone it worked perfectly, but the digitizer screen was cracked up. I found the T-Mobile model digitizer online and replaced it. Now the phone is DEAD. I have checked and rechecked EVERY ribbon cable and connection I can find and have insured all is attached properly. Battery has a full charge and works (tested it on my Dash 3g as they use the same battery). I even tried plugging it in and turning it on with.without the battery in and still nothing! Am I sunk?
I am hoping someone may have the answer... maybe I am overlooking something like a bone head? I really would appreciate any and all input. Thanks.
ight dude, been here with an iphone. first, do your self a favor and disconnect the new TS and replace the old one. did it work?
if yes, you have a problem, and it can be isolated to the new TS. if no, yu just did something wrong OR you shocked the mobo. Try not ot to do that.
Most likely though, it is a reassembly issue. I remember hwen i did this to my tilt, there was hell to pay and i thought i broke it. not so much. Just had a switch constantly being pressed in that shouldn't have been and didn't allow the device to POST.
Also, if you cna, how did you replace the TS part? i am about to do that to a Tilt2 and a touch pro 2 (same phone)
hi, have searched and searched on the forum but no real answer to my problem.
i dropped my htc one x and the glass cracked, so i sent it away to a supposed reputable firm (i didnt realise htc repaired phones aswell otherwise i would have sent it there)
anyway the lcd display and brightness worked perfectly, the company have replaced the screen and now the backlight no longer works and flickers when touched or cpu is being used.
they have said it is the display IC, and coil etc,
they say that this was caused by the phone being dropped, and not by them and they have charged me (they take payment before sending phone back), they initially took the phone back, and 3 weeks later they have decided to wash there hands of it, have put the phone back together shodily tell me i have to put up with the phone as it is, and refuse me a refund.
they acknowledge that the ic was fine before they took it apart, but blame it on the nature of the phone design as to why it now doesn't work.
i would post link to another forum explainingg the possible issue (has no explanation of cause though) and pics of the phone has been returned to me, but i can't because im a noob
Basicly the question is,
Who is at fault?
And how could the ic get shorted out,
The backlight flickering is likely to be poor installation of the new screen.
Again this is an old example I'm referring to here. I used to replace the screens on the Nokia n95 quite regularly.
You get the screen assembly and the ribbon cable which attached to the motherboard.
If the ribbon cable was not seated 100% perfectly I would get the exact same symptoms you are describing.
No backlight. Pressing down on the screen would either get it to flicker or come on for a while.
It shows a poor connection. I took the screen back out and repositioned the cable back in. Reassembled and then it was fine after
Sent from my HTC One X using xda app-developers app
sx_turbo said:
Basicly the question is,
Who is at fault?
And how could the ic get shorted out,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi mate did you managed to get this sorted I am having the exact trouble same issue with a company call Elite Phones and Computers.
They are saying that the IC shorted out and the only repair would have to be a replacement board.
sx_turbo said:
hi, have searched and searched on the forum but no real answer to my problem.
i dropped my htc one x and the glass cracked, so i sent it away to a supposed reputable firm (i didnt realise htc repaired phones aswell otherwise i would have sent it there)
anyway the lcd display and brightness worked perfectly, the company have replaced the screen and now the backlight no longer works and flickers when touched or cpu is being used.
they have said it is the display IC, and coil etc,
they say that this was caused by the phone being dropped, and not by them and they have charged me (they take payment before sending phone back), they initially took the phone back, and 3 weeks later they have decided to wash there hands of it, have put the phone back together shodily tell me i have to put up with the phone as it is, and refuse me a refund.
they acknowledge that the ic was fine before they took it apart, but blame it on the nature of the phone design as to why it now doesn't work.
i would post link to another forum explainingg the possible issue (has no explanation of cause though) and pics of the phone has been returned to me, but i can't because im a noob
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
had the same ..from now ill always send it to htc if something is broken again it costs the same i found out
I have been looking around, but no place specifically answers this exact question.
Long story short I have a t-mobile Mainboard that I want to save from a phone with a broken screen that I have. From what I understand the other components work as well (camera, speaker and whatever else). I understand that I can purchase an LCD/digitizer with assembly and carefully place the components into there to make sure the phone works but it would cost me around $120 for the parts + whatever time it takes me to replace the components. My second option which I am asking to see if it is indeed possible, would be to take the mainboard from the T-999 and replace it with a SCH-I535/SPH-L710 that I would purchase (most likely with bad ESN - costing me the same amount) but it would mean that I would not have to deal with screen replacement and I have a higher likelihood of having a good quality screen. (I have never been happy with the quality of screen replacements from ebay). It makes no difference if it doesn't work, but someone with the experience of working with different models should be able to answer this question.
Why not buy T999 with bad ESN ?
Perseus71 said:
Why not buy T999 with bad ESN ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am trying but T999 with bad IMEI's are not only more expensive but a lot of them also have broken screens so im back where I started. I am just stating these two because I can find them cheaply and easy to find as well.
In that case, you could try taking the Display & Digitizer from those phones and put it in your phone. Don't try to transplant your motherboard into that phone unless you have a good reason to do so.
It functions but you have to use a case and...
I did this a about a week ago. Here's how it went.
I bought a SPH-L710 without realizing it did not have a sim card slot. The screen had one slight crack and everything else worked.
After receiving it, I bought a T999 with a cracked screen/ non-working digitizer and everything else worked (the seller heard sounds when it powered on.)
I disassembled both and put the T999 mainboard on the L710 screen digitizer. Most of the screws line up. The two screws that don't line up are:
1. at the bottom near the TOP of the USB port. The hole in the board and the hole in the digitizer are on opposite sides of the USB port. This cannot be remedied, where the screw goes through the board, there's no hole on the digitizer, and you can't put a hole through the mainboard to meet up with the one on the digitizer. You could try but I think there's a circuit on the board there, or not enough room.
The two holes on the SIDES of the USB port will line up only when you squeeze thee mainboard and digitizer together while installing the screws.
2. on the side near the power button, there is a screw that goes there, but on the T999 mainboard near where the screw goes, there's something that looks like a button cell battery about 3mm wide and 1.5-2mm tall. It stuck in a hole made for it in the T999 digitizer, but the L710 digitizer does not have a recess in it to fit this button cell so the T999 mainboard sticks up slightly, enough that if you put the screw in the hole in the side, then the power switch on the mainboard will not stick down far enough, and when you push the power button on the outside of the case, it won't engage the power switch on the mainboard. To remedy this, leave out the screw on the side of the mainboard.
Because the mainboard is slightly bent due to the button cell battery, you need to have a case that compresses the phone together so the power button will engage the power switch properly. I used a "waterproof" chinese knockoff case I got on e$ay for $13. It's not waterproof, but the phone didn't get ruined even thought I tested the waterproof-ness of the case before I put the phone in and it passed, so maybe a genuine otterbox case would have been better. But the case does OK to compress everything enough that the power button and power switch work all the time. With the case on, you can't tell the phone is missing screws internally.
Verdict: everything works properly except the camera doesn't focus properly, it only works in Macro focus, I don't know if I should take the camera module from the L710 and try it or if it won't move because of the stress of the mainboard being slightly bent all time due to the button cell battery. It did focus properly for the few few days I had it.
One other issue: I can't get Windows 7 to recognize it, so I can't use Odin to root it, I've tried all the drivers, I've tried all the modes. I have no idea if this is a Windows issue or if it is somehow caused by the Frankenstein's Monster-ness of the hardware.
So yes, it can be done, with a "rugged" style case and with a few issues. I have no experience with the I535 at all.
I hope this helps,
rollinns
I could not have asked for a better reply. Thanks so much!!!!
Glad I could help
I was looking for this info about 3 weeks ago and didn't really look that hard since i was pretty sure everyone would give me the same replies you got before I replied. But for my entire life I've been asking questions no one else has asked, so I'm used to just having to do stuff to get answers. In this case, it helped you too.
If I had to do it over again, I think I'd try the whole process w/o the L710 parts. Maybe the I535 will work, and I still could drill a recess into the L710 digitizer if I had a mill, but I don't have access to mine now and won't for a while, and I'm not sure I trust the drill press to not crack the digitizer.
Also - NFC is less reliable than it was with my S2, meaning it doesn't work all the time - it's harder to beam contact info to another phone, but QI wireless charging works flawlessly.
My hope is to put some NFC tags in the truck along with a wireless charger so I can listen to internet radio as I drive, i.e. - a tag to turn off wifi, turn on bluetooth, turn on the app that streams music to my JVC car stereo and turn on the "TuneIn" app. and then I can still charge my phone without worrying about wires.
I bought my brother a second-hand M8. It had a cracked screen but it was really cheap. I put the new screen in and a new SIM card reader. Everything worked fine for months and out of the blue the screen stopped responding to touch. Everything else worked fine as far as I could tell. Even in TWRP touch was gone so I figured maybe it was a cheap screen or something like that. I took it apart and the backlight was falling apart. Ordered a new screen that had the frame with it to save time on reassembly and because the old one was a little tweaked. Same problem, ran the RUU from Windows, ran different RUU's from several threads via Fastboot. Ran the latest firmware package on Santods thread and still nothing. It has to be the motherboard at this point right? The display and digitizer cables go right into the motherboard and the only cable that looks replaceable goes up int the daughter board with the cameras and top speaker assembly. Am I missing something or should I just scrap this mess?
4/5/16: I have since purchased a used motherboard from eBay. This has corrected the issue with the digitizer not working. The SIM card will not be recognized now is the problem I am fighting with. It was giving me this issue before on the old phone but it was off and on. I got it to work once with the new motherboard installed. I have RUU's and everything. This motherboard is S-ON and I don;t want to waste another $25 on Sunshine if the problem isn't software related. I have also replaced the daughterboard and the flex cable as well as used a different SIM Card reader. I am out of ideas at this point.
Does anyone know if there is a way to make sure a motherboard from eBay will work?
No one has any idea?
In my case, as I took my M8 apart because of cracked screen and as I put it back together my M8 couldn't recognize my Sim and what helped in my case was that I've put a piece of thicker tape on my Sim just so it is thicker than it was and since then everything works flawlessly.
Hope this helps you,
Regards Talpes
ok, after nearly 5 years of using, i had have problems with the USB port of my N7000.
It was impossible to get a good power contact during recharging my battery.
So i ordered a replacement part for it. So far, so good.
But after replacing, i have only Edge (G2) and no G3/Umts any longer!
Have compared the new one against the old one twice but with the same result.
So i looked into the WWW and found different replacements with the same problem!!!
It looks like, that it is impossible to get the old original quality.
Ok, ~7$ is not expensive, but anyhow! Now i can charge but not surf in the net.
~34KB/s is 10 times less than with H+:silly:
I think, it seems to be a plagiarism with really bad quality.
So be careful if you will buy some (declared as a "original"!) replacement part.
I'm guessing Samsung (or the distributor) does not make the parts anymore so to keep with the demand there are attempts to create more of it by other opportunistic companies.
When replacing the connector you may have bent the connectors for the antenna or forgot to connect them. Check you motherboard brass connectors's health and the celular antenna's cable if it is connected right.
I think this phone being forgotten as so many dev leave and for the part replacement might be non ori at all. Within 5 years I got 4 times replacement for USB port & 3 times internal spraker, normally I let the phone repairman do at phone shop nearest my home. Lately they give discount for regular customer. Speaking about regular customer it also means this phone has nearly R.I.P as I always change the same part of replacement. Last week the 4th times USB replacement. What to do as I am unaffordable to buy new phone.
What are you doing with your phone bro. For all this time I have replaced the usb connector once and the display and this is my only repairs for this phone.
I ran into the same issue.
To my knowledge, there are at least 4 different revisions of the USB charging PCB. Some are incompatible with the device you own, because of regional differences between devices.
I had to buy two, one from china, one locally from a smartphone repair shop owner (cool guy!), as the china one didn't work. Only 1 or 2 bars GPRS when standing right next to the cell tower.
With the one bought locally, I have worse reception than with the original part, but it is very much acceptable and works in at least 90% of all areas I'm in.
Both replacement parts have different model numbers than the original one that was built into my note originally. Some sellers have pictures of another model number, so it suggests, that there at least 4 versions out there.
To further elaborate on my findings:
Two times so far, I experienced one very weird and almost esoterical bug.
This happened both times after reasonably long uptimes on bauners NightOwl 7.1.2 ROM (some version released early 2018).
I have the reception indicator once in the status bar at the top of the screen and one time in the notification area. For some weird mysterical reason, it can happen, that both of these indicators develop their own interpretations of the signal. It might happen, that the status bar will say e.g. H and the notification area will report something like E. The other way around it might happen as well. Telephony is not possible in such situations.
It is very weird and some online searches suggest, that this might be the note itself, not the software. It seems like several of samsungs devices are prone to this problem, not only the n7000. A reboot solves the problem, but I wanted to point this out as I thought the notification area signal reception indicator would merely mirror the status bar reception indicator, that is definitely not the case, so you might want to check for both signal indicators to be more certain about your issues. I'm sure nobody expects this, so a quick heads up.
Greetz