[Q] T mobile board in a Verizon frame, Antenna issues? - T-Mobile, Samsung Galaxy SIII

I put a t mobile board in a Verizon frame, due to cracked digitizer.
I had to cut out part of the frame with my dremel. I got it all to fit in. I used the t mobile back, With the antenna's.
The phone boots and runs good, screen, sound, wi fi.
Everything works, except I get no signal for cell service.
Help, why don't it get cell service?

Slow50 said:
I put a t mobile board in a Verizon frame, due to cracked digitizer.
I had to cut out part of the frame with my dremel. I got it all to fit in. I used the t mobile back, With the antenna's.
The phone boots and runs good, screen, sound, wi fi.
Everything works, except I get no signal for cell service.
Help, why don't it get cell service?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well for starters, you know that verizon and tmobile runs different networks right? (former is CDMA, the latter is GSM) So right off the bat there may be hardware differences.

There are a number of "pins" or bracket looking type things on your mobo. You may need to bend some upwards a little to ensure proper contact.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

DocHoliday77 said:
There are a number of "pins" or bracket looking type things on your mobo. You may need to bend some upwards a little to ensure proper contact.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did that once, but that is all I can think of to cause that. I tore the T mobile lcd out completely to see if there was anything in the frame. There was not.
thank you for your reply.

Actually, on the mid and back housings there are places that connect. Some look like metal tabs, others look like a grey mesh.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

Related

Signal boosting experiment.

Well, it's 6 am here and I decided to do a little experiment with my phone to boost my signal.
I simply placed aluminum foil over the signal connector thingy and it did happen to boost it up to 3 steady bars, when I would normally get about 1.
This may or may not work for you. Let me know if this actually worked for you.
Sent from my ADR6350 using XDA Premium App
Pictures would be great. There are two antenna connectors in the back cover, one near the bottom and one near the top.
Didnt work for me
arent you supposed to put toothpaste in the foil and wrap it good?
jesand83 said:
Pictures would be great. There are two antenna connectors in the back cover, one near the bottom and one near the top.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, that's exactly were I placed them and closed the cover. It molds right in.
Sent from my ADR6350 using XDA Premium App
voxigenboy said:
arent you supposed to put toothpaste in the foil and wrap it good?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know anything about that.
Sent from my ADR6350 using XDA Premium App
wouldn't that put both the ground and signal in contact with each other? possible to post a quick picture?
There are 4 contacts under the phone, and 4 on the back cover. 2 of them (next to the camera) are linked. I suspect the contacts next to the camera are the looped GPS antenna.
The other 2 contacts are separate radios. One is wifi and the other is mobile (they are not looped). These should not be bridged (this can cause problems, actually). I think the outer contact is mobile and the inner (has the longer yellow strip on stock back cover) is wifi.
I've been kinda studying the back cover antenna thing and I've come to a bit of a strange conclusion: I knew the yellow bit was conductive paint or ink, but I'm suspecting that the yellow bit is the entire antenna as I can't find any other connectivity, wires, etc.
I know I've been defending this device in terms of signal quality, but I'm thinking, now, that this can be improved a lot. I'm probably going to be destroying my back cover in the name of science this weekend. I know I can get a replacement back cover so no big deal!
nimdae said:
There are 4 contacts under the phone, and 4 on the back cover. 2 of them (next to the camera) are linked. I suspect the contacts next to the camera are the looped GPS antenna.
The other 2 contacts are separate radios. One is wifi and the other is mobile (they are not looped). These should not be bridged (this can cause problems, actually). I think the outer contact is mobile and the inner (has the longer yellow strip on stock back cover) is wifi.
I've been kinda studying the back cover antenna thing and I've come to a bit of a strange conclusion: I knew the yellow bit was conductive paint or ink, but I'm suspecting that the yellow bit is the entire antenna as I can't find any other connectivity, wires, etc.
I know I've been defending this device in terms of signal quality, but I'm thinking, now, that this can be improved a lot. I'm probably going to be destroying my back cover in the name of science this weekend. I know I can get a replacement back cover so no big deal!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a cover that's dented..if you need it for science...well..
sent from an under rated phone
nimdae said:
There are 4 contacts under the phone, and 4 on the back cover. 2 of them (next to the camera) are linked. I suspect the contacts next to the camera are the looped GPS antenna.
The other 2 contacts are separate radios. One is wifi and the other is mobile (they are not looped). These should not be bridged (this can cause problems, actually). I think the outer contact is mobile and the inner (has the longer yellow strip on stock back cover) is wifi.
I've been kinda studying the back cover antenna thing and I've come to a bit of a strange conclusion: I knew the yellow bit was conductive paint or ink, but I'm suspecting that the yellow bit is the entire antenna as I can't find any other connectivity, wires, etc.
I know I've been defending this device in terms of signal quality, but I'm thinking, now, that this can be improved a lot. I'm probably going to be destroying my back cover in the name of science this weekend. I know I can get a replacement back cover so no big deal!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
cool! haha. look forward to hear back any conclusions or findings from your experimenting.
nimdae said:
There are 4 contacts under the phone, and 4 on the back cover. 2 of them (next to the camera) are linked. I suspect the contacts next to the camera are the looped GPS antenna.
The other 2 contacts are separate radios. One is wifi and the other is mobile (they are not looped). These should not be bridged (this can cause problems, actually). I think the outer contact is mobile and the inner (has the longer yellow strip on stock back cover) is wifi.
I've been kinda studying the back cover antenna thing and I've come to a bit of a strange conclusion: I knew the yellow bit was conductive paint or ink, but I'm suspecting that the yellow bit is the entire antenna as I can't find any other connectivity, wires, etc.
I know I've been defending this device in terms of signal quality, but I'm thinking, now, that this can be improved a lot. I'm probably going to be destroying my back cover in the name of science this weekend. I know I can get a replacement back cover so no big deal!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting. I will have to do some science as well, with FOIL!
anyone know where I can get conductive paint from? Maybe thickening the pre painted paint will make a better connection with the signal thingies?
And about the pics, sorry I can't post any, my phone is the only camera I have at the moment.
Sent from my ADR6350 using XDA Premium App
you could still take pictures with the battery cover off, no? isn't the foil on the battery door?
Avelnan said:
Interesting. I will have to do some science as well, with FOIL!
anyone know where I can get conductive paint from? Maybe thickening the pre painted paint will make a better connection with the signal thingies?
And about the pics, sorry I can't post any, my phone is the only camera I have at the moment.
Sent from my ADR6350 using XDA Premium App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Conductive ink is generally composed of a conductive polymer or contains metallic dust for conductivity. It's generally used as a cheaper method of bridge contacts between conductors. I've never seen it used this way before.
One thing I know about wireless signaling is length of antenna wire is important. I don't know the exact math for determining optimal length by frequency, but I do know the longer the better, preferably long enough to receive a full wavelength.
To be honest I'd be quite surprised if the conductive ink is being used as the antenna. However, I really can't find evidence to state otherwise.
nimdae said:
To be honest I'd be quite surprised if the conductive ink is being used as the antenna. However, I really can't find evidence to state otherwise.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have to agree..since it only gets signal with cover on.
sent from an under rated phone
The inner contact is actually the mobile radio. I'm getting signal with bus wire but it's not a marked improvement. This is connected to the full 400' spool, though.
I've already damaged my back cover so I'm pretty much committed to this experiment. Going to do a little more testing before I commit to modification.
nimdae said:
The inner contact is actually the mobile radio. I'm getting signal with bus wire but it's not a marked improvement. This is connected to the full 400' spool, though.
I've already damaged my back cover so I'm pretty much committed to this experiment. Going to do a little more testing before I commit to modification.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have an extra. Where you live
sent from an under rated phone
knipp21 said:
I have an extra. Where you live
sent from an under rated phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Eh, don't worry about it It's not gonna bother me to have to buy a new one.
After a bit of testing using a 1' length of wire (used solder to build a flat contact on the end and pressed it in, feeding the wire through the tiny hold...for testing) I've found the signal strength marginally improves, but the data speeds improve quite a bit. In one of my rooms I tend to get poor signal/speed (pipes? not sure) but was able to double my speeds. However, the connection was still pretty unstable.
The end with my homemade flat contact broke and I don't feel like making another one right now. I have a temporary solution that works, but is a bit fragile.
nimdae said:
Eh, don't worry about it It's not gonna bother me to have to buy a new one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok btw I got hulu plus to work
sent from an under rated phone
Very interested to hear your results, nimdae. I was almost going to play around with this the other day.
I do have a suspicion though that some of the antenna may actually be "hidden" in the cover. I managed to carve off and expose some metallic looking material where you open the case at. Not sure if it is indeed since I didn't go any further.
Foil worked for me!!! My signal just went from -125 dbm to 98 dbm!!
Sent from my Incredible 2 using XDA App

CDMA Screen for GSM phone

I got the CDMA screen... there is a difference in the case that the screen is on.
Is there a way to remove the case and just use the screen?
The phone on the right is my GSM phone and the one on the left is the CDMA version.
The screen is EXACTLY the same I just need to change the back somehow and I cant find anywhere how to do it.
Please help!!!
I don't see why not, they are essentially the same phone. I would compare teardowms between the two phones before I would try though.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using XDA
I hope this works.
I bought a sprint galaxy nexus screen.
If anyone knows if this will work please let me know.
When I get the screen I will let you know what happens
Please help!!!
LOTS of heat from a heat gun to melt the insanely strong adhesive, lots of patience with a spudger to pry it away, and an act of god that you don't shatter the LCD while trying to pry it off. Then, hope that it actually IS the same LCD. There's a huge chance the connectors don't fit the same way.
Best of luck my friend.
Why would you get a CDMA screen to begin with? There's a reason it was labeled as such.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus running AOKP+Franco from Tapatalk 2
It could potentially be the same thing, just with a different frame.
I'll see if I can ask a Sprint tech nicely to give me a defective one that I can try to throw on a GSM frame.
Yay, I love fun projects.
If you want to see if it will work, plug the LCD flex cable from the CDMA screen into the GSM board, then tape the battery to the contacts and try to power it on. If it starts to boot up and you can see the screen, it should be good with a different frame. If it doesn't feel like it's going to fit, don't force it though. You'll screw up your board, then you'll have bigger problems.
Good luck!
I know the screen fits the problem is the case connected to the back of the screen.
I got a really good deal on this screen and I thought it would be able to fit because the screens are exactly the same.
Is heat gun my only option? (Can i use a hairdryer as a heat gun?)
ricmann1 said:
I know the screen fits the problem is the case connected to the back of the screen.
I got a really good deal on this screen and I thought it would be able to fit because the screens are exactly the same.
Is heat gun my only option? (Can i use a hairdryer as a heat gun?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can use a hair dryer but it will take longer. It will eventually come up though. Be patient and don't force it. Heat it, then pry gently, heat some more, pry some more and so on until it comes off. Be very, very careful!
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using xda premium
What side do I heat up the backside or the glass??
Bump
I would heat the frame - that's the part you're going to be pulling off.
But seriously, I know they look like they're the same thing, but try what I said before. The iPhone 3G and 3Gs screens look identical, but the flex cable fits differently onto the motherboard. Before you do all the work to remove the frame, just check it.
Okay, confirmed. They are the same screen. I just tested it.
Kudos to you for doing this, I love this kind of stuff.
Props!
Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2
So has anyone successfully separated the display form the frame??
Separating the display from the chassis is fairly simple. Separating the glass screen from the digitizer is nearly impossible.
Btw... separating the digitizer cable straight down the middle is also fairly simple, but it is not recommended.

AT&T Galaxy S3 lcd/digitizer replacement using Sprint Galaxy S3 parts

I have a question about screen lcd/digitizer replacement . I have an AT&T GS3 with a cracked screen, can it be replaced by using a working lcd/digitizer from a Sprint GS3? Are they compatible (same part?) and has anyone done this before? Thanks for your input on this matter.
Check youtube for guides that take both the att and sprint galaxy s3 apart and compare it that way. Most of the youtube guides go pretty in depth.
Sent from my SGSIII with the XDA Premium App
Did you ever find out the answer to this question? I'm wondering the same thing...
My brother-in-law cracked the screen of his Verizon S3 and was looking for another screen on ebay, but the cheapest ones were the Sprint versions. I proposed an experiment to see if my At&t digitizer would work on his. I took both phones apart and put my digitizer on his phone and everything worked flawlessly. That led me to believe that all the S3 digitizers were cross compatible.
Sent from my SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
mellospace said:
I have a question about screen lcd/digitizer replacement . I have an AT&T GS3 with a cracked screen, can it be replaced by using a working lcd/digitizer from a Sprint GS3? Are they compatible (same part?) and has anyone done this before? Thanks for your input on this matter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just broke my screen last night and I want to know this too, I can;t seem to find a digitizer for an at&t s3 but i can find a butload of sprint s3 digitizers. I guess I'll just have to guinea pig up and do it to find out and I'll let you guys know.
a little background on my s3 though. I bought it from at&t on the 1st of this month, it arrived on the 4th, and it broke last night when it fell approximately 3 inches onto the concrete while i was laying down talking on the phone. bing bang boom shatterded in like 5 places. FROM A 3 INCH DROP!!! gorilla glass my butt. I had my motorola atrix 4g for 2 years and dropped it ma ny times from much higher. I even threw it down once in a drunken fit and it was fine. upset!
I am curious about this as well....Was it successful?
Ted G
I know for a fact that the Sprint LCD digitizer does not work on a Verizon phone if you are using the frame with the digitizer. If you try it the back cover does not go on all the way and your home key will not function, microphone creates an echo, and camera front and back may not work. The housing on Sprint is smaller on which LCD digitizer is affix too.
check out the video i did on my screen replacement
http://youtu.be/pIljeb9ZY0A
tedgasiorowski said:
I know for a fact that the Sprint LCD digitizer does not work on a Verizon phone if you are using the frame with the digitizer. If you try it the back cover does not go on all the way and your home key will not function, microphone creates an echo, and camera front and back may not work. The housing on Sprint is smaller on which LCD digitizer is affix too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What about the LCD itself? The videos show the LCD and glass digitizer are glued together and a PITA to get apart, so maybe it's not worth it.
Ordered Sprint LCD
Hi guys i'll update you when the lcd arrives.
Compatibility
At&t, TMobile or GTI9300 board will not fit in Sprint housing.
WowWowAndroid said:
At&t, TMobile or GTI9300 board will not fit in Sprint housing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
God damn it I wish you posted that 48 hours earlier.
Anyway! I bought a Sprint SIII digitizer/housing to repair my AT&T SIII with.
Results:
Yeah, it works. Sorta.
Problem 1:
So the clock battery on the AT&T board makes the whole thing stick out (and your power button not work) so I put a piece of rolled up tape up to the power button to push it down. So that works fine (except that it's ugly).
Problem 2:
No home button. I'm OK with that, I just turned on the on-screen keys on CM10.
Problem 3:
Bottom...housing. It just doesn't fit right. It's loose. I can live with it.
Conclusion:
It's fine if you want to use a slim case for the back of your SIII because it'll be a bit loose (unlike the Euro housing which just outright doesn't work).
Good luck and I should not have bought the Sprint housing but I'll live with it!
EDIT/Update:
In case anyone cares: I filed down the left side of the phone with sand paper... It works fine.
I gave up on the middle bottom (because it's just not the same damn size), I removed the piece of plastic that allows access to the random developer?? pins.
Overall, it works OK. If you happen to see a sprint housing on ebay for real cheap then go ahead I guess. I wouldnt especially recommend it. I'm just gonna get a case to hide the slight gap/lump/whatever from the processor not fitting right. My Nexus 4 comes tomorrow, so I'm giving it away anyway....blah.
Sprint LCD with Frame doesn't fit
Like bastardinator I ordered a sprint LCD with the frame still attached to it and apparently it doesn't fit because the sprint s3 doesn't have a sim slot so the i747 motherboard with the sim slot wouldn't fit in the sprint frame/housing. I did however find out that any s3 lcd sold without the frame would work on any s3 such as this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Original-Digi...&qid=1354152704&sr=8-2&keywords=galaxy+s3+lcd
WowWowAndroid said:
At&t, TMobile or GTI9300 board will not fit in Sprint housing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is the Sprint housing the only one that's different? And can you swap the LCD/glass in between models, as long as you don't swap the frame?
civicvx94 said:
Is the Sprint housing the only one that's different? And can you swap the LCD/glass in between models, as long as you don't swap the frame?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The only manufacturers that share frames are:
ATT i747 & T Mobile T999
Verizon i535 & US Cellular R530
International i9300 unique to itself
Sprint L710 unique to itself
Now of course a bare Digitizer Amoled inlay without frame is universal.
Hope that helps and here are some high quality videos that show glass replacement from start to finish.
Sent from my SCH-I605 using xda premium
I have a Verizon S3 and purchased a Sprint S3 digitizer w/ casing from ebay. I plugged it in and it worked great, but just like others it doesn't fit quite right. I then noticed that the casing for the Verizon and Sprint phones differed slightly because the motherboards are put together differently. So I took a dremmel to the casing of the Sprint digitizer to match the Verizon casing. I am nearly finished modding the casing and the motherboard sits almost perfectly inside the casing. One thing I have left to do is apply some rubber paint/cement to the areas I ground down because the casing is actually aluminum and I don't want the motherboard to short. I will try to post pics later of what I have finished so far.
help!
sdm5 said:
Hi guys i'll update you when the lcd arrives.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what ever happen did the sprint lcd work with the at&t galaxy sIII?
wagner262 said:
what ever happen did the sprint lcd work with the at&t galaxy sIII?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd like to know;
Are the GT i9300 universally compatible? I need to know which will work with the Verizon version. Also does anyone have an idea what type of paint should be used for the frame?
ryanstfl said:
I'd like to know;
Are the GT i9300 universally compatible? I need to know which will work with the Verizon version. Also does anyone have an idea what type of paint should be used for the frame?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No the I9300 and Sprint L710 are not compatible with one another or any other variants. Verizon i535 and US Cellular R530 are the same and AT&T i747 and Tmobile T999 are the same... :beer:
Sent from my SCH-I605 using xda premium
Ok so I have read through all of these post about using sprint parts to repair an ATT S3, but I can't help but ask again for more clarification. I know the ATT and Tmobile share the same frame, but like others have said there isn't much out there for cheap. So if i got a Sprint S3 digitzer frame with power button and volume rocker still, then put my logic board and the plastic piece that goes on it and then say I use an extended battery with a backshell that extends would that work? I read in one spot that the clock battery causes issues where exactly is the clock battery on the att phone seems like the biggest thing I have seen is the vibration motor. Sorry to beat this into the fround :-/ thank you again.

I9300 display for SPH L 710

I stay in India and use the SPH l710 over here. The phone was working fine untill i dropped it and the glass took a crack. Now what i want to know is will the GSM verison of this phone (I9300) fit the display of the Sprint version of this phone? The touch works fine. It is just the glass that has broken.
Will the display of the GSM Version I9300 fit SPH L710 version. Cause I can get the screen only for the I9300 over here. Any help appreciated. Thanks
ankurcshah said:
I stay in India and use the SPH l710 over here. The phone was working fine untill i dropped it and the glass took a crack. Now what i want to know is will the GSM verison of this phone (I9300) fit the display of the Sprint version of this phone? The touch works fine. It is just the glass that has broken.
Will the display of the GSM Version I9300 fit SPH L710 version. Cause I can get the screen only for the I9300 over here. Any help appreciated. Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The screen I believe is the same hardware number or piece. Only different is the processor and ram and a SIM card slot. But honestly, you should just try to get a new phone.. I've seen the screens as like $300. But that was the first couple months
Sent from my SPH-L710 using xda app-developers app
I wont be able to spare up for another phone really. I can afford upto 120$ max for replacing it. And the I9300 costs pretty much the same here. Just the screen. So it should work?
Yeah, the screens should be the same.
Gonna try out changing tomorrow!
Screens are swappable between all s3 variants. Whatever one you can find cheapest will work. The only differences between the devices are the logic board and antennas (logoc board contains SoC and sim slot etc) when you replace the screen make sure to *CAREFULLY* remove your antennas from your old screen and replace them on the new screen or you'll be taking it back apart again when you realize they're not there.
I like to break stuff!
Well I am going to give it to a person over here who works for Samsung. The board and the display are 2 different boards right?I hope they are not inter connected? Cause the people here dont know much about CDMA.
ankurcshah said:
Well I am going to give it to a person over here who works for Samsung. The board and the display are 2 different boards right?I hope they are not inter connected? Cause the people here dont know much about CDMA.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
While I imagine it should work, one thing I've noticed over my years of working on phones, with CDMA and GSM variants of the same phone, is the connector that connects the LCD to the motherboard could sometimes be different. That could be the only thing different between the L710 and the i9300. As I have not been in either phone, I couldn't be sure, personally.
Good luck with getting it repaired.
Ummm all right! Will have a look
Vanakatherock said:
While I imagine it should work, one thing I've noticed over my years of working on phones, with CDMA and GSM variants of the same phone, is the connector that connects the LCD to the motherboard could sometimes be different. That could be the only thing different between the L710 and the i9300. As I have not been in either phone, I couldn't be sure, personally.
Good luck with getting it repaired.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Everything on the s3 display is identical this time. The ribbon cables and even the radio mountpoints you just have to swap the radios as one is embedded along the edge of the display in the front assembly. The logic board will come up from the lcd housing, after up clipping the ribbon cables. Then ypu remove the antennas and reconnect them to the new display housing, line up and reconnect the logic board and then reassemble the rear housing. Shouldn't take more than 20 mins from removing battery cover to powered on
I like to break stuff!
The guys over here at my town deneid to change it. The GSM one has a sim tray and blah blah blah. A person at another state had the same issue So gonna ship it to him as he has replaced it successfully with a GSM version screen.
ankurcshah said:
The guys over here at my town deneid to change it. The GSM one has a sim tray and blah blah blah. A person at another state had the same issue So gonna ship it to him as he has replaced it successfully with a GSM version screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol, you should have told them the sim isn't attached to the lcd assembly its part of the logic board. Buncha idiots, sim slot has nothing to do with the screen. sorry you had to deal with morons. You could replace it yourself ita only a few screws and a couple of clips.
I like to break stuff!
Bloody morons!! Naa too scared to do it bro.
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
ankurcshah said:
Bloody morons!! Naa too scared to do it bro.
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I definitely don't blame you. If I dive into a repair, I usually study iFixit & You Tube videos before and during the process. I don't even bother with iPhone 4/4S because of the trouble it takes to replace the LCD/Digitizer.
Vanakatherock said:
I definitely don't blame you. If I dive into a repair, I usually study iFixit & You Tube videos before and during the process. I don't even bother with iPhone 4/4S because of the trouble it takes to replace the LCD/Digitizer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The s3 is easy lol its like 6 or 7 screws a handful of clips and the ribbon cable. The lcd/digitizer and glass are fused into the midframe with the power\vol keys so basically you just swap logic boards and rear frame out.
I like to break stuff!
I put a sprint screen with the housing on a att phone and it was hell the logic board was not a perfect fit I had to grind down some of the black part on the housing "in between the screen and the logic board" just to get the board to set right.
Sent from my SPH-L710 using xda app-developers app
-EViL-KoNCEPTz- said:
The s3 is easy lol its like 6 or 7 screws a handful of clips and the ribbon cable. The lcd/digitizer and glass are fused into the midframe with the power\vol keys so basically you just swap logic boards and rear frame out.
I like to break stuff!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That, I can believe. I took apart an E4GT and it was pretty easy. However, because screens/LCD's are still expensive on the GS3, I won't bother with repairs on those. I considered doing a Verizon Galaxy Nexus, but the screen still costs as much as the phone is worth.
Vanakatherock said:
That, I can believe. I took apart an E4GT and it was pretty easy. However, because screens/LCD's are still expensive on the GS3, I won't bother with repairs on those. I considered doing a Verizon Galaxy Nexus, but the screen still costs as much as the phone is worth.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hit up tuscani1821 here on xda he has parts cheap and fast shipping. Gs3 screens like 130 shipped
I like to break stuff!
Vanakatherock said:
While I imagine it should work, one thing I've noticed over my years of working on phones, with CDMA and GSM variants of the same phone, is the connector that connects the LCD to the motherboard could sometimes be different. That could be the only thing different between the L710 and the i9300. As I have not been in either phone, I couldn't be sure, personally.
Good luck with getting it repaired.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello, I succesfully implanted an I9300 board on a L710 lcd/frame. Turns on and everything seems fine. It requires a little bit of either sanding or cutting small bits of the l710 back of the lcd in order to get a smooth fit of the mobo,
yigael1138 said:
Hello, I succesfully implanted an I9300 board on a L710 lcd/frame. Turns on and everything seems fine. It requires a little bit of either sanding or cutting small bits of the l710 back of the lcd in order to get a smooth fit of the mobo,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you maybe have some instructions or more details of sanding and cutting? Which parts of L710 back did you exactly cutted and sended?

[Q] Screen repair

Hi I broke my screen and ordered a replacement on ebay (I'd tried the ASUS service centre previously and they were (a) expecsive and (b) really really slow)
I followed the guide here http://www.fixez.com/guides/tablets/asus-google-nexus-7-2013-repair-guides-videos and the disassembly went well, however my screen didn't come with the double sided tape. Does anyone have and recommendations on what to use?
I replaced the screen on my n7 2013 yesterday. I was aware that the new screen came without adhesive, so i ordered this from ebay.
Search for -> 3M 300LSE
One sheet of 10x20 cm is enough. 0.17mm thickness.
I just measured up everything and cut the adhesive to the correct sizes with a scissor.
Just make shure you don't put adhesive over the notification light and camera / sensor on the frame.
Cheers, I ended up just buying some 3M double sided tape, it seems to have worked ok so far. Only problem I've got is that I damaged the wifi lead and need to fix/solder that.
I'm in the UK and have a broken screen, where are you guys buying the parts from?
I'm presuming you're getting the glass and digitiser as one assembly ?
I got mine on ebay and yes, glass digitizer and lcd in one piece, they are really bonded together.
My only issue is that my wi-fi reception is really bad now, I'm trying to work out what I've done wrong.
Did you guys find a decent replacement? I'm trying to find a oem one personally without luck.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using XDA Free mobile app
I just got one from ebay, I picked the one with the fastest delivery because I'm impatient.
baralong said:
Cheers, I ended up just buying some 3M double sided tape, it seems to have worked ok so far. Only problem I've got is that I damaged the wifi lead and need to fix/solder that.
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How did you damage that? I have no problems with wifi after screen replacement.
MiRaCL said:
How did you damage that? I have no problems with wifi after screen replacement.
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Click to collapse
When the back case is off and the tablet is lying on its screen there are 2 leads I managed to pull the wire out of the clip on the one on the left, I'm assuming it's the wifi one as that's the problem I've got. It's such a fiddly thing to put back together and so small I'm not sure I'm up for soldering it, but I'll give it a try. I've got a good 4G connection so it's not so bad not having WiFi, but I'd like to fix it for streaming videos at home.
baralong said:
When the back case is off and the tablet is lying on its screen there are 2 leads I managed to pull the wire out of the clip on the one on the left, I'm assuming it's the wifi one as that's the problem I've got. It's such a fiddly thing to put back together and so small I'm not sure I'm up for soldering it, but I'll give it a try. I've got a good 4G connection so it's not so bad not having WiFi, but I'd like to fix it for streaming videos at home.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The only wires on the back is for the speakers. The 4 golden contacts are for wireless charging. I don't think there are any wires for the wifi antenna.
But i don't have the LTE version so i don't know if that's different.
MiRaCL said:
The only wires on the back is for the speakers. The 4 golden contacts are for wireless charging. I don't think there are any wires for the wifi antenna.
But i don't have the LTE version so i don't know if that's different.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right, turns out it is see the wifi version from ifixit and a picture of mine. I ended up swapping the left (broken) wire for the right one and wifi works, so it's definately wifi. the board says con1102 for the wifi one and con1101 for the other one, whatever that is. but with wifi fixed I'm pretty happy.

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