Develop Bugs

[SOLVED] ALL 2.1 ROM BATTERY Life Problem FIX..(lots of trial results) +EXTRA OPTIONS

Check the thread pages to see results from other users who have had much better results than the ones I got.
This solution was discovered while I was checking out the CDMA Hero forum, so I don't take credit for discovering the method.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=651848&highlight=cell+standby
Goto dialer and dial *#*#4636#*#* (DO NOT press send) wait a second and you will get the test menu.
In the test menu choose 'Phone Information'
scroll down and choose on the first drop down - GSM auto (PRL) (for high speed data) or GSM only (You may get 3g if not use GSM auto (PRL))
Back out to test menu then back into 'Phone information' to see if it sticks (if not try again) then back all the way out.
You might want to reboot, but I found the settings worked straight away.
Edit 3 - I don't take any responsibility for step 6 - 6) Try other settings on the dropdown if you are brave as I don't know the consequencies of using settings like "EvDo only" and "unknown" as they may be better depending on the way your provider provides information.
Edit 4 - can't seem to select the other settings like EvDo and unkown anyway.
Edit 3 - TBH - GSM auto (PRL) is working for me with HSDPA and I will try
(PRL) instead of GSM auto (PRL) <- edit - previously it mistakenly said GSM only
the CDMA and WCDMA settings later to see what other effects there are.
This way I managed to get 5½ hrs and only lose 10% battery (GSM Only)! (Edit 3-) Slightly more drain with GSM auto (PRL) but still better than before.
Previous to this I lost 35% in the same amount of time with the same use (sometimes even more when I didn't even use the phone all night).
Hope the devs can make use of this (maybe mess with other settings in there to improve battery more.). I did notice that the GSM auto (PRL) uses a bit more battery than GSM only, but that is to be expected.
Edit: Actually you might need to set it on each reboot, not sure, the settings stayed when I rebooted
Edit 2: When you change roms (or re-install a rom) you will need to do this again, but should stay after a normal reboot as it does for me.
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Results:
Your results will vary depending on the rom, but it should improve battery performance - some have had better results than me using this.
GSM only <---- If you don't get 3g with this it is the same as 2g setting then use GSM auto (PRL) if you want faster than 2g (as some people are getting 3g on GSM only - I will investigate. (if you don't use internet or don't need fast internet)
5½ Hrs - lost 5% Battery - This one is same as running 2g as you don't get HSDPA, but using Opera browser makes browsing fast even using this. If you want Higher speed data use the one below.
GSM auto (PRL) <---- Recommended if you want High speed Internet and save battery
1:40am to 2:00pm (12hrs 20 mins) - lost 40% battery with moderate use a bit of surfing at HSDPA speeds, a few calls and messing with a few apps. Other people have had even better results than me though, so I might change my rom and try again. (I would usually about this amount of time I would have lost about 70-75% - and yes it was that ridiculous - I had to find something to stop this).
" WCDMA Only"
2:06pm to 11:37pm - (9hrs 31mins) lost 46% battery again moderate use and a reboot
This one might be useful if you live in a place that has low GSM signal like the chap in post #10 as it does give HSDPA - but this is only a suggestion as I cannot test it in Iceland. Anyway
" WCDMA preferred"
6:02am to 2:51pm - (8hr 49mins) lost 41% battery this time with less use that the WCDMA use and no reboots.
=============================
Conclusion: (For me anyway)
SO my preference is GSM auto (PRL) some people have got some excellent results with this. You may, however, require one of the other options depending on your service provider signals.
===========================================
EXTRA OPTIONS :
Other settings you can change: (You may have tried this already)
If you don't get GSM auto (PRL) then if you press the menu button on your phone in the 'phone information' page and select 'radio band', you may be able to change it to Automatic or one of the other settings and then you might get GSM auto (PRL).
Available Radio Bands * You may get others depending on the radio you have installed, but I haven't confirmed this*
Automatic
EURO Band
USA Band
JAPAN Band
AUS Band
AUS2 Band
There are other settings there that I haven't messed with, maybe someone with more knowledge may be able to help
Thanks to those who found out what PRL stood for, I will try to update this info in the instructions soon.
========================
I think the reason this works is because it prevents the phone from constanly looking a round for various networks types as it I did notice that the Cell standby time is always high and using this method the cell can standby without constantly searching for a signal thereby wasting power. ALso using this method my "Awake time" is a LOT LOT lower than my "Up time" - about 1200% less (is that right 12 times lower (Up 12hrs - Awake 1hr) ?) - before this the two times were most of the time the same and some times slightly lower. - I'm sure someone will let me know if this theory is incorrect - and I'm open to and welcome that.
This is my experience you can read other peoples who have achieved a lot better than me, and I'm glad I spotted this and let you guys know. (Those who are saying that you've known about this test menu thanks for letting me know that you knew about it before, but a lot of other people didn't know about it. ALso I don't think people have used this as a tool for increasing battery in the GSM section of the forum. As I mentioned at the top of this post I noticed it in the CDMA section as a way of increasing battery performance. - credits to them for thinking it up in the first place.) -
All I am saying though, is to test it out yourself.
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Just tried this. If it works i'll kiss you.

petsasj said:
Just tried this. If it works i'll kiss you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well in that case I don't know whether I want it to work now, LOL, unless you're a fit babe.

I went back to 1.5 for battery problems, let me know if it works so i can go to 2.1 roms

This is just using 2g instead of 3g, isn't it?

xangma said:
This is just using 2g instead of 3g, isn't it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Like I said in the first post GSM (auto) PRL gives you 3g/hdspa but not as brilliant battery as GSM only, but is better than before.

I am now unplugged from fully charged. Will report back in the morning and throughout the day to let you know if this works.

About PRL, here's what some telecom website says:
The term PRL actually refers to file stored in your phone. This file directs the phone to find alternative networks to operate on when the primary operator cannot be reached. Updating the PRL will store in the phone which are the most up to date, current networks to operate on. In order to operate on another carrier’s network your primary service provider must have a roaming agreement with other carriers.
Almost all phone carriers, such as Oxygen, Locus, Cingular, Verizon, etc. have roaming agreements with other major service providers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I guess it's useful?

Suppose so.

I am on a fairly small operator in Iceland and my phone started roaming when I did this.
I lost 3G connection and went over to Edge...
Switched back to the WCDMA Preferred.... My provider has a little limited coverage but has no roaming charges on the GSM network.
Any ideas what setting I should use for my phone other then WCDMA preferred

Yea mine is on Wcdma preferred when i go into it. Im on t-mobile uk. Ive left it for now as dont really know how long this battery is lasting. Going to give it a few days to see an average

skimminstones said:
Yea mine is on Wcdma preferred when i go into it. Im on t-mobile uk. Ive left it for now as dont really know how long this battery is lasting. Going to give it a few days to see an average
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm on T-Mobile UK and GSM auto (PRL) gives me 3g/H and GSM only gives me gprs. Like I said, both give me loads of battery time (GSM auto PRL is a bit less than GSM only though).

Interesting, I may have done this accidentally a few days ago...
I just checked and it was already on GSM auto PRL, I'd changed this in my build.prop last time i was fiddling:
ro.telephony.default_network = 0
I thought that would give me wcdma preferred but apparently not...

I'll have done your tutorial ... will wait till end of day what happens

Definitely helped battery life.
Thumbs up!

In fact i can be wrong, but this tip only disable 3G access... only GSM and Edga.. so it save some battery for sure.. but you will navigate slower if you have a real 3G or 3G+ access.. am i wrong ?
Ciao
Fred

Surely this does the same as the button in the options to just use 2G?

frederikk said:
In fact i can be wrong, but this tip only disable 3G access... only GSM and Edga.. so it save some battery for sure.. but you will navigate slower if you have a real 3G or 3G+ access.. am i wrong ?
Ciao
Fred
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't HSDPA faster than 3G?
source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-Speed_Downlink_Packet_Access
in which case you would get your faster browsing using GSM auto (PRL) - giving you HSDPA. I certainly get a H showing at the top of the screen while browsing and it isn't constantly connected when I'm not browsing, which it was doing (connecting and disconnecting all the time) before I chose this setting, and thereby my battery life was extended a lot.
Edit: Just try it - if it doesn't work just put it back to your original setting, it has worked for me - There are other settings in there but I have not tested them out yet.

btdag said:
Surely this does the same as the button in the options to just use 2G?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It may be, but not if you choose GSM auto (PRL) - also make sure you have the correct APN settings from your service provider. I did notice that the standard APN's on the phone have always been a little different from the ones on the T-Mobile UK website.

This is not a fix for the battery issues in 2.1 roms, althought it may help as 3g doesn't use the same amount of battery as 2g. But i think everyone knows that anyway. Much easier having the 2g/3g toggle on the home screen and changing it to 2g only when you are not using the web browser etc
ps: before people say other wise this menu has been known for ages and every rom I use is always on GSM.

[Q]WiMax range booster I could use in Japan?

So I have au by KDDI here in Okinawa. They have WiMax service, but it seems I'm just inside the outskirts of the service. Well, in my room I cannot connect to it, but I found out earlier today that I can in my friends' room. He is one floor up and a few feet over. So this kind of confuses me how such a marginal distance can make or break it.
Anyways, is there anything I could do to pick up WiMax better or anything like that? It was one of the main reasons I got the phone and would hope to use WiFi tethering for a main internet source.

So this kind of confuses me how such a marginal distance can make or break it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's wimax. A thin piece of drywall is enough to reduce the signal by at least half.
Anyways, is there anything I could do to pick up WiMax better or anything like that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, nothing you can do to boost wimax signal. The ONLY thing you can buy to boost a cell signal is an Airave, but that only boosts your cell and 3g signal, and it uses your internet connection to do so.

You can edit some of the settings.
If your on Sense goto phone and type ##3282#
go to edit mode
type your msl
goto wimax
Here are my settings
WIMAX_SCAN_ATTEMPT_TIMEOUT(S) = 1
WIMAX_SCAN_RETRY(S) = 120
WIMAX_IDLE_SLEEP(s) = 10
WIMAX_ENTRY_RX(RSSI)(dBm) = -110
WIMAX_ENTRY_CINR(dB) = 4
WIMAX_ENTRY_DELAY(s) = 15
WIMAX_EXIT_CINR(dB) = 1
WIMAX_EXIT_DELAY(S) = 15
HANDOFF THRESHOLD = 6
IDLE MODE TIMER = 60
TLS = ENABLE
TTLS = DISABLE
Make sure to hit menu, and commit modifications.
The WIMAX_ENTRY_RX(RSSI)(dBm) - the lower the number the the weaker the signal can be and still connect. -110 is the lowest, but still gives me good enough signal to tether my laptop at work.
WIMAX_EXIT_CINR(dB) - again the lower the number the more noise it will allow and still stay connected
WIMAX_EXIT_DELAY(s) - the time in seconds it will wait before dropping the connection after signal is lost. For instance, driving under a bridge may cut your signal for a moment, but lengthening this will keep it from dropping back to 3g.
Someone else discovered this, I am just passing it along. Wish I knew the guys name to give him credit. There is a thread explaining all of this, and I would have just linked it, but I cant find it at the moment.
Some people say this has extended their coverage for up to 1/2 mile. Your mileage may vary. Make sure to write down the original settings, just in case something goes wrong.

bcarter2000 said:
You can edit some of the settings.
If your on Sense goto phone and type ##3282#
go to edit mode
type your msl
goto wimax
Here are my settings
WIMAX_SCAN_ATTEMPT_TIMEOUT(S) = 1
WIMAX_SCAN_RETRY(S) = 120
WIMAX_IDLE_SLEEP(s) = 10
WIMAX_ENTRY_RX(RSSI)(dBm) = -110
WIMAX_ENTRY_CINR(dB) = 4
WIMAX_ENTRY_DELAY(s) = 15
WIMAX_EXIT_CINR(dB) = 1
WIMAX_EXIT_DELAY(S) = 15
HANDOFF THRESHOLD = 6
IDLE MODE TIMER = 60
TLS = ENABLE
TTLS = DISABLE
Make sure to hit menu, and commit modifications.
The WIMAX_ENTRY_RX(RSSI)(dBm) - the lower the number the the weaker the signal can be and still connect. -110 is the lowest, but still gives me good enough signal to tether my laptop at work.
WIMAX_EXIT_CINR(dB) - again the lower the number the more noise it will allow and still stay connected
WIMAX_EXIT_DELAY(s) - the time in seconds it will wait before dropping the connection after signal is lost. For instance, driving under a bridge may cut your signal for a moment, but lengthening this will keep it from dropping back to 3g.
Someone else discovered this, I am just passing it along. Wish I knew the guys name to give him credit. There is a thread explaining all of this, and I would have just linked it, but I cant find it at the moment.
Some people say this has extended their coverage for up to 1/2 mile. Your mileage may vary. Make sure to write down the original settings, just in case something goes wrong.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm having troubles finding my MSL. I'm using a Japanese EVO and all the methods (non-root) I've tried cannot seem to find this code.

inifekt said:
I'm having troubles finding my MSL. I'm using a Japanese EVO and all the methods (non-root) I've tried cannot seem to find this code.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure if you can find it without root.
You should be able to call your provider, and ask for it. If they ask why you want it, tell them you want to downgrade your PRL for better reception.
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA Premium App

Go to the main forum page and search "how to find your msl" it should be the second or third thread.
In search use show thread, not show post.
I would link it, but I'm on the App.

Yeah I've been doing searches and browsing through alogcat but cannot find MSL in it at all. Then I tried calling my provider and that didn't work either. It's a primary Japanese company and they have terrible English speaking operators.

Ok, well we thought you were talking about an Evo, since you posted in an Evo forum. We can't help you with another phone.

sitlet said:
Ok, well we thought you were talking about an Evo, since you posted in an Evo forum. We can't help you with another phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm guessing he has the Japanese Version of the EVO. Essentially the same phone, called the EVO WiMax over there.
I saw people posting wimax 4G boosters before, but last I knew they cost hundreds of dollars and didn't gain you all that much.
During a quick search the only boosters I found were external antenna that were made to plug into WiMax modems, not a phone.

There's an app call MSL reader found in the app market....oh but I think u need to be rooted
Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk

slimno19 said:
There's an app call MSL reader found in the app market....oh but I think u need to be rooted
Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Correct, you need root for that app to work. There is also a website that will give you your msl for like $5. I have seen it advertised on sprint users forum before.
Sent from my Synergized Evo using XDA Premium App.

I think KDDI did something to the MSL, because every method I've tried doesn't work. I've tried looking through alogcat, cdma workshop, adb shell getprop, and occasionally my phone will post a "manufacture code" in the about settings that doesn't work.
Even tried calling into the customer service but no luck since they speak broken English

Why data connection lost and why reboot fixed it?

Hi,
Using GNex, stock JB 4.11, Wind Mobile Canada, $40 plan, unlimited data & Canada wide.
Please excuse in advance for the novice questions. I am not yet familiar with Wind Mobile. The customer support is too long and submitting a question to their website required around 5 days to get an answer which is generally irrelevant in my short experience. Hope some expert users here can share some of your knowledge.
Last week, suddenly during a phone conversation, the phone became totally disconnected voice & data. The next morning, the situation didn't improve, so I rebooted the phone (power off / on). Then the phone could connect to voice, but no data (gray icon instead of blue). I stayed with no data for 3 days. During that time, I tried a few reboots, changing various network settings (APN, Network Operators, Data roaming, etc.). None of that worked, then I made another reboot and suddenly everything is back to normal (no roaming and data OK).
Q1. Signal strength variation: what is the cause that makes a signal vary? For the same location, sometimes signal changes from 3 bars to 1 within a few minutes.
Q2. What caused a network to black out temporarily? That's what I got last week during the entire night. The reception icon is a black outline triangle (no voice, no data). I purposely disabled roaming, I admit a network could have some issues, but I have hard time to admit that a disruption could last 12 hours. May be the issue is my phone? It was not rebooted since 7 days.
Q3. How often should I reboot the phone? By reboot, I mean power off/on. I hope this is the correct term. Is it possible that a frequent reboot help the phone to be more responsive? I tend to think so because all the network issues I got were magically fixed by reboot.
Q4. Why would a reboot fix a data connection issue? In my case, a few reboots on day 1 didn't fix. Many network settings changes didn't reconnect data. Then finally another reboot on day 3 fixed data connection.
Thanks in advance for any help.

Welcome to the Nexus and its crap radio. Try turning off 4G, once I did that I never lost signal again. With 4G on I get disconnected from the network randomly throughout the day

SirVilhelm said:
Welcome to the Nexus and its crap radio. Try turning off 4G, once I did that I never lost signal again. With 4G on I get disconnected from the network randomly throughout the day
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How to turn off 4G? Wind Mobile operates on AWS network 1700/2100 MHz (UMTS band 4), and HSPA+ for data. I believe it is not 4G. On the phone Network Settings, there is only an option "Use only 2G Network" which is not a good option for me. If I enabled "Use only 2G Network" the phone shuts off data and changes to roaming mode.

just set ur nexus on airplane mode for a second..
then disable the airplane mode instantly..
u ll gain ur net working widout reboot... )

dinglic mass
ronakmachhi said:
just set ur nexus on airplane mode for a second..
then disable the airplane mode instantly..
u ll gain ur net working widout reboot... )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh wow, that's a cool tips.
I hope someone can answers my other questions, I like to understand the "how things works" side.

2LoT said:
Q1. Signal strength variation: what is the cause that makes a signal vary? For the same location, sometimes signal changes from 3 bars to 1 within a few minutes.
Any number of influences. A microwave, air ionization, temperature, humidity, output from the tower not consistant, and plus just the variations of the phone. Going by bars is a bad way to gauge anyways, it could have only dropped signal for a split second but it doesnt update the bars frequently so it would appear to be low signal longer than it could have actually been. Your phone works by line of sight, picture a tight wire from your phone to the tower, anything that crosses in that line reduces signal.
Q2. What caused a network to black out temporarily? That's what I got last week during the entire night. The reception icon is a black outline triangle (no voice, no data). I purposely disabled roaming, I admit a network could have some issues, but I have hard time to admit that a disruption could last 12 hours. May be the issue is my phone? It was not rebooted since 7 days.
That actually is hard to answer, you would need to contact your provider to see if they have a log of an outage at that time before going into whether it was the phone or not.
Q3. How often should I reboot the phone? By reboot, I mean power off/on. I hope this is the correct term. Is it possible that a frequent reboot help the phone to be more responsive? I tend to think so because all the network issues I got were magically fixed by reboot.
Never unless things act funny. A reboot is usually healthy for operating systems (i know many do not). I personally don't intentionally reboot mine, it usually happens because I'm screwing with clock speeds
Q4. Why would a reboot fix a data connection issue? In my case, a few reboots on day 1 didn't fix. Many network settings changes didn't reconnect data. Then finally another reboot on day 3 fixed data connection.
Like any software there are chance of a 'glitch' where the modem and the driver have issues communicating. Toggling airplane mode off and then back on re-initializes this and in most cases fixes the communication problem. Rebooting will have the same effect. I would only worry if you are needing to do this often.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hope this helps a little.
I would also contact your provider. They may have an issue with the tower you are connecting to.

Perfectly understood, appreciated very much your detailed answers. Can you please clarify below?
Darunion said:
Any number of influences. A microwave, air ionization, temperature, humidity, output from the tower not consistant, and plus just the variations of the phone. Going by bars is a bad way to gauge anyways, it could have only dropped signal for a split second but it doesnt update the bars frequently so it would appear to be low signal longer than it could have actually been. Your phone works by line of sight, picture a tight wire from your phone to the tower, anything that crosses in that line reduces signal.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Makes sense. Indeed, when I said "For the same location, sometimes signal changes from 3 bars to 1 within a few minutes". Actually, I mean a room and I was walking/moving so may be the orientation of the phone explained why the reception was inconstant.
Regarding your answer above output from the tower not consistant. Is it possible that the tower reduces its signal strength when the number of users increases? Similar to users sharing a finite band width?

Yes, even orientation of the phone can have an affect, depends how the antenna is set up inside the phone, i havent seen it so i have no answer for that.
ya, as you move around you could have been what blocked the direct sight of the tower, signal passes through nonmetal objects but each time it does, it loses strength depending what it passes through

@OP I also have the same problem, I am also with Wind and had to do force reboot to make it reboot.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using xda app-developers app

Flash the UGLC1 radio to your nexus. I'm with Wind as well and that radio gets me good service!

[Q] Cell Signal AT&T LTE

I have created a Zooper Widget with a custom signal progress bar but I have an issue with AT&T LTE that whenever I am connected my signal in Zooper shows as a 99ASU and a Positive 85dBm. I know others have had this issue with Sprint, but that solution didn't work for me. Has anyone else had this issue/been able to solve it so the signal shows as the right values?

Jcross1324 said:
I have created a Zooper Widget with a custom signal progress bar but I have an issue with AT&T LTE that whenever I am connected my signal in Zooper shows as a 99ASU and a Positive 85dBm. I know others have had this issue with Sprint, but that solution didn't work for me. Has anyone else had this issue/been able to solve it so the signal shows as the right values?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Anyone?

I've been giving myself a headache trying to figure this out and still can't get it.
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

sixstrings78 said:
I've been giving myself a headache trying to figure this out and still can't get it.
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have it with T Mobile

Skipjacks said:
I have it with T Mobile
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How did you configure it?
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

sixstrings78 said:
How did you configure it?
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't. I have the same problem at you on t mobile. I don't have a solution.
Sent from your phone. You should be more careful where you leave that thing.

Jcross1324 said:
I have created a Zooper Widget with a custom signal progress bar but I have an issue with AT&T LTE that whenever I am connected my signal in Zooper shows as a 99ASU and a Positive 85dBm. I know others have had this issue with Sprint, but that solution didn't work for me. Has anyone else had this issue/been able to solve it so the signal shows as the right values?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try this, in the "edit progress min/max",
set value to "NCSIG",
min to 0,
max to 70. I have the spacing set to 40 and split to 7. Seems to work pretty good for me.
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Zooper has problems calculating dBm & ASU on LTE (4G)
I have the same problem as the OP, and others on the thread. I have already posted about it on the Zooper G+ forum, and on the Zooper support site, to no (apparent) avail.
Using Zooper Pro v245010b on a Verizon CDMA Galaxy Nexus running KitKat (4.4.2 rooted, Shiny ROM, which is very close to the stock ROM). I'm having three problems with the cell signal information (NCSIGN) when I'm in an area with a 4G / LTE connection.
1. Zooper reports NCSIGN as a negative integer when on 3G / eH; but as a positive integer on 4G / LTE. The OP seems to have seen the same thing (positive dBm on 4G) on Sprint. This means that (for example) to get the dBm to display as the negative integer regardless of connection type, I can't just tell it to display #NCSIGN #, I have to tell Zooper "if I'm on LTE, precede the dBm value with a negative sign". This is easy enough, using $#NCONNS#=4G?-#NCSIGN#:#NCSIGN# . So, if that was the only problem, it would be trivial, and barely worth reporting, but I think it may reflect a deeper issue with Zooper & LTE......
2. The central problem is that (at least for me, and some other users) Zooper does not report the absolute value of NCSIGN correctly on 4G / LTE. The reported value does change from time to time, but it's not the correct value. See the attached file with 2 images, captured within a few seconds of each other when I was in an area with a very strong & stable LTE connection.
The top image shows the phone info screen. The yellow arrows indicate (from the bottom up) that I'm connected on LTE, with a dBm of -68, and an ASU of 72. Note that the dBm value (-68) is taken from the value "rsrp" value shown on the line "CellSignalStrengthLte". -68 is quite a strong signal, as confirmed by the 4 bars of connection shown in the status bar.
The bottom image shows my Zooper widget. It shows (correctly) that I am on LTE. however, the dBm is incorrect, showing 85 (the "-" sign comes from the display code I've provided in point 1 above). Because the reported dBm (as a negative integer, i.e., -85) is much weaker than the real dBm (-68), the indicated percentage signal, and the signal bar strength, are lower than they should be - but that's not a real issue; they're wrong because Zooper is delivering an incorrect value for NCSIGN under an LTE connection. If this dBm is fixed, the progress bar & percentages will be fine, too.
3. There's another problem, separate from the above. ASU (NCSIG) doesn't work properly for Zooper when you're on LTE. As you see from the images, my ASU was 72.... but Zooper's cutoff max ASU is 31. Anything above that is displayed, by Zooper, as "99" - which, I think, means "ASU value unknown". I believe the problem is that ASU is calculated differently depending on whether you're on 3G or LTE. Under 3G, the calculation is ASU = (RSSI + 113) / 2. Max value is 31. Zooper does this OK. But under LTE, ASU is calculated as follows: ASU = RSRP + 140. And under LTE, the max is around 97. So, looking again at the attache image, my RSRP is -68. Add 140, bingo, my ASU is 72.
Bottom line: I think that Zooper needs two tweaks in order to report correctly under LTE. Under LTE, (1) Zooper should use the RSRP data (NOT RSSI) to define #NCSIGN# (i.e., dBm, reported as a negative integer); and (2) to correctly calculate the value of #NCSIG# (ASU), Zooper should use the LTE-specific equation (ASU = RSRP + 140). Note that the second item (the ASU calculation) is less important to me, because it's easy to customize Zooper code to display the correct ASU, so long as Zooper is providing the correct input value for #NCSIGN#. But without the correct dBm value under LTE, we're stuck.

Control cellular network switching thresholds

As it is well known there are preset thresholds on each device to drop to the lower type of network. For example, if there is less than -125 dBm on 4G/LTE it will drop to 3G, and it the 3G signal goes to lower than -125 dBm it will drop to 2G. I know how to lock in one network through the hidden phone info menu, but I would like to know how can I edit these settings/thresholds on the Pixel 2XL. I'm guessing the values are in the radio image, but how do I actually manipulate them?
The reason being that I work in remote locations and I would like it not to switch to the slower network unless it goes to a lower value than the preset ones.
Would really appreciate anyone pointing me in the right direction.