So, you've been instructed to remove the battery in your Optimus G, huh?
I've had to do it twice, and the first time, I screwed up royally. This time I took it step by step, and decided to take a bunch of photos along the way!
Here's what you'll need.
* T-4 or possibly T-5 Torx bit to get the case off
* P00 Philips head to get the connector off.
* Fingernails, spudger, some little implement.
* Patience.
* Tiny pointy implement strongly suggested (I used a sewing needle)
* Little magnet suggested, or some method to keep the screws together.
Now, Xiutehcuhtli was awesome enough to make a video showing how to get the casing off and back on.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3DPxzH3l2c
Having that little "guitar pick" tool seems like it'd save quite a bit of headache...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Direction references are assuming you have flipped over your Optimus, and are looking at it like it was a compass, so "West" is the power button side.
On the south side, towards the corners are two Torx screws. You have to remove these first.
I found it simplest to start with your fingernails to start seperating the case, and then use your spudger-like device to start popping the hooks. There is no glue involved, so that makes things a bit simpler.
Images 02-05 have the locations of the catches on each side highlighted. Once you pop those, the cover will come off.
Take your time, it's rather annoying, and if you put too much pressure on the silver part, you'll nick/dent it. Be aware that the power and volume buttons will "fall out".
Image 06 is what the device looks like when you have taken the cover off. Our area of focus is right "under/left" of the camera module, that little silver strip covered with blue tape.
Remove that tape. (Image 07) You can save it to put back on, or leave it off, it doesn't seem to serve any "actual" purpose. Obviously, putting it back on is probably the better option, but I mangled mine, and it seems to be fine.
Here's where you need your P00 Philips. There are two TINY screws holding the plate in place. Be damn careful, they are only a few millimeters in dimensions. Remove them, set them somewhere they won't move (your magnet, perhaps?) (Image 08)
Now, here's the "dangerous" part... I used a sewing needle, but as a very helpful individual on IRC put it.
[18:12] <fiddy619> I'm sure if you use eyeglass repair kit screw driver, you'd be good, but however it worked is really the "right" way...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Image 09 is how I went about doing it. I cannot stress enough NOT to pry it up with your fingernails. The solder holding the connector to the PCB is not that strong, and you CAN break it! I speak from unfortunate experience (See Image 12, note the second OG in the distance)
What I did was poked the needle into the center, and the shallowest angle I could manage, and VERY gently pried up a bit... Repeat to both sides, each time prying up a little bit more. The trick is that you want to put the lifting pressure on the plate side, while pushing down on the PCB side.
After a handful of seconds of prying, you should pop the connector off (Images 10 and 11)
Stop a moment, pat yourself on the back!
Now that you've successfully disconnected the battery, it's time to reconnect, and close it back up. Luckily this is a lot simpler...
Click the plate back into place.
Now, I assume you came here because you're having problems. Continue your troubleshooting, being careful of the back. No sense putting it all back together if you're going to need to do it again, huh? The plate is snug enough that it should stay in place for mild troubleshooting.
Go ahead, I'll wait.
Back already? Congrats! Let's close this thing up!
Screw those obnoxiously tiny black screws back down.
If you choose to, put the blue tape back in place. (Image 6 for original placement)
Now, getting the back cover back in place is.... annoying. You need to snap it down, while keeping the power and volume buttons in place. What I wound up doing was putting the cover on the table, placing the buttons where they belong, and setting the rest of the phone in place. I had to jimmy it a little since my power button fell in a hair, but nothing serious.
Xiutehcuhtli had a beautifully simple solution to this... scotch tape them into place. Watch his video!
Go around the outside of your case with your fingernails/spudger/etc and ensure all the catches are in place. I managed it with a combination of fingernails and just a bit of shoving.
Put your Torx bolts back in, and rejoice!
Bigger pictures?
Just in case the included images are just too damn small for your liking, here are the original JPEGs.
It's a 38MB Zip file, containing the above images at 3888 x 2592 each.
You can also hold volume down and power and it does the same thing.
Also the battery is glued to the back of the screen and almost impossible to remove without destroying the battery.
Sent from my LG Optimus G using xda premium
eyeisdasteve said:
You can also hold volume down and power and it does the same thing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wasn't working for me, This post matches the symptoms I was having.
Attempted to LGNPST, and it was "finishing" within seconds. (Logically, I should have realized that wasn't right, but I didn't know it was sending the entire file)
Disconnected the battery, reconnected it, LGNPST again, took some minutes, and it worked that time.
I figure this should/will be a last-ditch effort to reset the device, and it might as well be documented.
The guide worked like a charm for me. My OG is back from the grave, woot! :laugh: :good:
Hey Nericus, sorry to be off topic, but while you were in the phone could you see a SD card anywhere that can be swapped out with a bigger one?
twcrosno said:
Hey Nericus, sorry to be off topic, but while you were in the phone could you see a SD card anywhere that can be swapped out with a bigger one?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No worries, I still have the first OG I broke opened up. There's a bit of plastic on the back that I haven't figured out to remove, so I'm not positive, but I don't see a spot. There is a slot on the side with the volume control where it looks like a card could have fit, but there's no plug for it.
Hey Nericus,
Thanks for taking the time to check into this. I think that slot is where the ATT version has their SD card, so it might be there in the Sprint model, but it doesn't function. I was told that there is a way to get to the SD card and we should be able to put in a 64BG card to replace the 32GB card by opening the case. If you find it please take a photo and either post it or send me a PM with the photo. Again, thanks for taking the time!
I really think the one that told you that simply doesn't know what theyre talking about.. the "sdcard" in this phone is emulated, i.e. is a partition on the internal block device.. soldered to the board. They're probably thinking of the att version which has a slot. In order fr you to 'remove' the 'sdcard' on this model (ls970) you're going to have to remove it's entire disk (containing the programming for everything, wifi, cell, recovery, os and 'sdcard'). to do this you'd have to find the chips, de-solder them, find new chips, figure out the pinout, solder them in (hoping you don't bork anything up) then partition them and flash.
Assimilated using the interface that interacts with the advanced internet.
benmatlock said:
I really think the one that told you that simply doesn't know what theyre talking about.. the "sdcard" in this phone is emulated, i.e. is a partition on the internal block device.. soldered to the board. They're probably thinking of the att version which has a slot. In order fr you to 'remove' the 'sdcard' on this model (ls970) you're going to have to remove it's entire disk (containing the programming for everything, wifi, cell, recovery, os and 'sdcard'). to do this you'd have to find the chips, de-solder them, find new chips, figure out the pinout, solder them in (hoping you don't bork anything up) then partition them and flash.
Assimilated using the interface that interacts with the advanced internet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well GOD knows we do not want to go there. Thanks Ben!
Just wanted to thank you for this tutorial. After an LGNPST back to ZV7 resulted in my phone not powering up or responding at all, pulling the battery did the trick and brought it back to life*. For those wondering, this really wasn't that difficult to perform, just heed nericus's advice when detaching the battery connector. I used a needle as well and had no trouble disconnecting the battery numerous times. Thanks again! :good:
* Then it was on to my 6 hour journey of getting the phone back to a usable, unlocked state, but that's another story.
Just wanna say thank you so much for this write up. This is how i had to start off my day, went to frys and got the $15 Pro'sKit for apple products, it came with everthing i needed to get this apart. Thanks again!!!
Having that little "guitar pick" tool seems like it'd save quite a bit of headache...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you SO MUCH for putting this in the OP.... It turns out I didn't have the tool, but I DID have some guitar picks which worked great!
Rocket_Science said:
Thank you SO MUCH for putting this in the OP.... It turns out I didn't have the tool, but I DID have some guitar picks which worked great!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome! I have no idea what that thing was... it looks like a three sided spudger...different thicknesses perhaps? To paraphrase Fiddy. Whatever works is the right tool!
Rocket_Science said:
Thank you SO MUCH for putting this in the OP.... It turns out I didn't have the tool, but I DID have some guitar picks which worked great!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought of this same thing after I spent 45 minutes doing it with my fingernails and a pin.
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk HD
Related
over the past few weeks some of the buttons (namely left soft key, up and left) have stopped working, i've tried numerous roms just incase but it's definatley a hardware issue, now, i've dismanted the phone using the diamantos guide to see if anything jumps out at me, gave the phone a damn good cleaning whilst i had the chance, put it back together....but nothing, everything seems to be in order, all components in their rightful place but i still cant work it out, does anyone know if this is a common problem or if theres a fix as i've been unsuccessful in my searches.
actually, i just found the solution and it worked a treat, thanks anyway people.
btw, if anyone would like to know what i did then i'll be more than happy to share the solution.
godofwap said:
actually, i just found the solution and it worked a treat, thanks anyway people.
btw, if anyone would like to know what i did then i'll be more than happy to share the solution.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll be more than happy
please share your solution with us, I have the exact same problem
ok, no problem, heres what i did.
before you start please be aware that this is a very delicate procedure and you should take care as this may naff up your beloved trinity.
ok, i first disassembled my trinity using the dimantos guide located here http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=311463,
now, when you get to the keyboard / button pcb take it out if, you look closely you'll notice theres a thin adhesive plastic cover covering the metalic buttons, very very carefull peel this back (i used a sharp knife to get to it), making sure not to completely remove it, try to only expose the underneath of the buttons in question, you'll see that the buttons come away with the plasic leaving the underneath exposed, now, using a cotton bud and some lightly applied alcohol clean the contacts then when all is done, replace the plastic and make sure its firmly pressed back down you may notice it making a different, kind of sharper clicking noise when depressed than before meaning its worked, repeat for all buttons.
i think whats going on here is the gum or glue from the plastic film has "leaked" if you will, onto the plates meaning theres no contact from the buttons, this would also account for the very slight change in sound when you now press the button.
i found this info here http://forum.xda-developers.com/archive/index.php/t-289737.html
i have the same problem with the front hardware keys. They last around 1 year, i had them changed under warranty the first time but now they are failing again.
Thank you! now i just have check for tools and some courage because i fear damaging my good old trinity.
temp9300 said:
i have the same problem with the front hardware keys. They last around 1 year, i had them changed under warranty the first time but now they are failing again.
Thank you! now i just have check for tools and some courage because i fear damaging my good old trinity.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
....hi to all dear friends!!after half an year of very hard work my trinity has the same problem....only central botton working but,the superior two,works if I do an hard reset!very strange!changing a lot of different roms,from w 5 to w 6.5 the problems doesn't solve...!
- I'd like to make your same operation but I'd like to know first if you too have they working on hard reset before trying....
thanks a lot and merry christmas!
yes, even after a hard reset they work for me, its as if it was brand new, bare in mind you may have a different problem so if your gonna try this, TAKE YOUR TIME.
godofwap said:
now, when you get to the keyboard / button pcb take it out if, you look closely you'll notice theres a thin adhesive plastic cover covering the metalic buttons, very very carefull peel this back (i used a sharp knife to get to it), making sure not to completely remove it, try to only expose the underneath of the buttons in question, you'll see that the buttons come away with the plasic leaving the underneath exposed, now, using a cotton bud and some lightly applied alcohol clean the contacts then
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried doing this but found no plastic cover above the metallic buttons. Maybe it's because mine went for repair with this problem before, dunno.
I don't think i can mess with the metallic part so i guess i'm stuck with this unless i buy a new keyboard.
it's more of a very very thin laminate, like sticky back plastic than a cover, it should definately be there unless they replaced the PCB with a different model, otherwise the metalic buttons would just fall away. Again, they may have used a different version of the PCB. You can actually buy the PCB and replace it yourself. (here http://cnn.cn/shop/p3600dopod-d810-keypad-p-1825.html )
Hi,
I can't remove the battery cover, which I will need to be able to do as I want to install a custom rom, but if it gets stuck in a boot loop I'll be completely stuck.
And I know the design is poor (i.e everyone has issues), but only one person has ever been able to do it (something like the 15th person, in the 6th shop I took it to, cause you need to take the cover off to unwrap the battery on first boot).
Any techniques or anything? It literally seems stuck. The guy that did it took it out the back and came back with it off.
Tamen said:
Hi,
I can't remove the battery cover, which I will need to be able to do as I want to install a custom rom, but if it gets stuck in a boot loop I'll be completely stuck.
And I know the design is poor (i.e everyone has issues), but only one person has ever been able to do it (something like the 15th person, in the 6th shop I took it to, cause you need to take the cover off to unwrap the battery on first boot).
Any techniques or anything? It literally seems stuck. The guy that did it took it out the back and came back with it off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1
I also would like to know if there is special way to do it.
I once drop my phone and the battery cover come out a little bit from its position. I try to put it back into its position. BUT couldn't do so. Than I try pull out the cover. Than BAMMMM!!! its broke!!!
Buy new cover, but costly..
Buying a new cover is only any use if you can get the original off. And although I don't know the technique, even people that did couldn't get it off - I was shown 2 other DHDs that could be done with a minimal amount of fiddling (i.e. mine is way worse than it should be). I had about 10 people say "oh yeah mate it's easy, you just do thi.. wait... wow, that's like glued on or something".
The battery cover is a good design. Had to take out the battery number of times and it always goes off and on as intended to, perfect.
I had another mate try to do it and he just couldn't figure it out. Wtf has this world come to??
If you look there is a little space where you put your nail and then pull it out with a bit of force and putting it in is even easier!
Honestly, so many threads/posts about this...
Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk
ErOR22 said:
The battery cover is a good design. Had to take out the battery number of times and it always goes off and on as intended to, perfect.
I had another mate try to do it and he just couldn't figure it out. Wtf has this world come to??
If you look there is a little space where you put your nail and then pull it out with a bit of force and putting it in is even easier!
Honestly, so many threads/posts about this...
Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not thick, you would have to be stupid to not realise there's a place for your nail - the problem is that my cover wouldn't budge (clearly you didn't read the OP - I took it to 5 different PHONE SHOPS - and only one guy could do it. I've opened other DHDs, just not mine. Until today...
Got a friend to try - he spent about 5 minutes but couldn't, but he must have budged it as I could get my nail into the corner - (to the left of the bit you're supposed to do) and hook it up from there - sorted
eeeeehhh RELAXXX lol
one moment...... are you talking about you can´t open the battery cover of your DHD?
REALLY YOU CAN´T?
I'd be darned if people find the DHD battery hatch to open easily... I even got the under side of my nails(the index finger) bleed trying to pry it open the first time I tried to charge the phone.
SERGI.3210 said:
eeeeehhh RELAXXX lol
one moment...... are you talking about you can´t open the battery cover of your DHD?
REALLY YOU CAN´T?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Couldn't, now can I felt really embarrassed going into a shop saying "I can't take the cover off" But then they were like... neither can we haha. It's been loosened now and can be done with a bit of technique.
It can be that it sounds absurdity but here I leave the guide of DESIRE HD, there it is written like to remove the cover.
In a Spanish forum i was read that there are people who helps herself with a credit card or a small screwdriver...
i think its solved
http://dl4.htc.com/web_materials/Manual/HTC_Desire_HD/HTC_Desire_HD_WWE_UM.pdf
plskillme said:
I'd be darned if people find the DHD battery hatch to open easily... I even got the under side of my nails(the index finger) bleed trying to pry it open the first time I tried to charge the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can remove the battery cover from my DHD with one hand - although I end up flicking the cover several feet.
Don't get me wrong, when I first got mine it was so tight I nearly snapped it. It's by no means loose now but it has got a little easier.
I don't like my fingernails to reach some ugly lengths(like girly nail lengths) I usually keep my fingernails short b/c I have some sort of OCD... ):
plskillme said:
I don't like my fingernails to reach some ugly lengths(like girly nail lengths) I usually keep my fingernails short b/c I have some sort of OCD... ):
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Um, ok, thanks for sharing that. Useful to know.
So on my 3rd Lumia 900, I noticed the sim slot tray wasn't flush with phone... I never did get that fixed but whatever...
Anyways... I removed the tray and noticed 2 things 1) a stricker with some numbers, and 2) a second sticker that is actually used to mask some type of button or something. I didn't notice this on the first 2 devices I had (maybe they didn't have it, or maybe I didn't notice). I had to remove the plastic thick sticker on the right side to see the button or whatever it is... Took me forever to put it back on in place properly.
Anyone know what this is?
IIRC, it covers the slot that allows you remove the locking pin that retains the screen, so you can get inside the phone. You can use the SIM removal tool as a lever to remove the pin, then use a plastic pry tool to remove the screen.
This will void your warranty.
DONT TOUCH IT!!!
if you absolutely must touch it, be aware that your warranty is at stake. if you aren't familiar with the inner workings of a handset, its best to leave it alone.
You wouldn't start poking around inside of your TV if you found a small hole.
Zhariak said:
So on my 3rd Lumia 900, I noticed the sim slot tray wasn't flush with phone... I never did get that fixed but whatever...
Anyways... I removed the tray and noticed 2 things 1) a stricker with some numbers, and 2) a second sticker that is actually used to mask some type of button or something. I didn't notice this on the first 2 devices I had (maybe they didn't have it, or maybe I didn't notice). I had to remove the plastic thick sticker on the right side to see the button or whatever it is... Took me forever to put it back on in place properly.
Anyone know what this is?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you press that button, the Lumia turns into an iPhone 5
alodar1 said:
If you press that button, the Lumia turns into an iPhone 5
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Better not touch it than hahaha
Thanks guys, by removing that little sticker thing though, that wouldn't affect warranty would it? I didn't touch anything below it..
That's cool they made it easily serviceable though!
Zhariak said:
Better not touch it than hahaha
Thanks guys, by removing that little sticker thing though, that wouldn't affect warranty would it? I didn't touch anything below it..
That's cool they made it easily serviceable though!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually.....it could void your warrently....if they checked that. Removing stickers on a handset is usually an indicator of a stay away area near hear...stay away.....
When they swapped by phone last week because of the vibrator....they definitely opened the sim slot and looked in...I had no idea why....but I do now.
Zhariak said:
Better not touch it than hahaha
Thanks guys, by removing that little sticker thing though, that wouldn't affect warranty would it? I didn't touch anything below it..
That's cool they made it easily serviceable though!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Removing the sticker is what lets them know that you voided the warranty.
Megabunny said:
You wouldn't start poking around inside of your TV if you found a small hole.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually, I would. It's no wonder my parents got grey hair so quickly.
Zhariak said:
Better not touch it than hahaha
Thanks guys, by removing that little sticker thing though, that wouldn't affect warranty would it? I didn't touch anything below it..
That's cool they made it easily serviceable though!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some stickers....whenyou remove them....say VOID VOID VOID. All you can say is OPPS OPS OPS OPS...because the they are 1 way stickers...usually....won't go back on.
Want to know whats under the sticker....go to YouTube and find the break down video....
Weird,
I removed the sticker a few times to look in, until finally posting this, each time I was able to put it back. It's NOT one of those tamper proof stickers, it just covers that hole...
Zhariak said:
Weird,
I removed the sticker a few times to look in, until finally posting this, each time I was able to put it back. It's NOT one of those tamper proof stickers, it just covers that hole...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This thread did make me go look. got the flash light out, the reading glasses, I'm looking inside there....and boom....I see the darn this right on the top. First glance....this is a "You void your warrenty" type of sticker. But thats my opinion. The one of the Dell Venue Pro was black and barely noticable...until you pull it back and it left its surprise.....but then you were looking for the SD card....
Strange...but cool to know.
I have to admit, the same day the YouTube video came up showing how to dismantle the phone, I went ahead and did it. It's pretty slick the way it's held together.
I wanted to see how the Vibrator Motor was installed to see if there was a good reason for the rattle and possibly a fix. Unfortunately, it's under the Main Board, and I was not that enthusiastic, so never got to see it. But I can confirm it's the Motor, or something close to it, and NOT the camera lense. I ran the vibrator while the phone was open so I could find the source. Again, it's under the Main Board, so could not see the actual rattle source.
I'm wondering if it might be one of the metal plates that clip on to cover the IC Chips, thus the different rattle on different phones. All the other parts seem to be solidly mounted.
PS: From what I can tell, there's no sign that the sticker had been lifted after I put it back in place.
SuperSport said:
I have to admit, the same day the YouTube video came up showing how to dismantle the phone, I went ahead and did it. It's pretty slick the way it's held together.
I wanted to see how the Vibrator Motor was installed to see if there was a good reason for the rattle and possibly a fix. Unfortunately, it's under the Main Board, and I was not that enthusiastic, so never got to see it. But I can confirm it's the Motor, or something close to it, and NOT the camera lense. I ran the vibrator while the phone was open so I could find the source. Again, it's under the Main Board, so could not see the actual rattle source.
I'm wondering if it might be one of the metal plates that clip on to cover the IC Chips, thus the different rattle on different phones. All the other parts seem to be solidly mounted.
PS: From what I can tell, there's no sign that the sticker had been lifted after I put it back in place.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I might do this when its out of warranty.... too knew yet to blow that!
First off, the motivation to do this came from these threads:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1610336
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1441510
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=21795243&postcount=62
---------- Please read these threads and hit their authors Thanks buttons, because they are awesome! ----------
Background:
I have suffered from call echo on every AOSP ROM I have installed, and even on custom stock ROM's. I have the D30 phone case T-Mobile sells, so I always thought that was the problem. Without the case, stock ROM's didn't really echo (it was there, but only noticeable to those who were really annoyed by it when I was running AOSP ROM's, such as the wife). Also, when I would shift the phone in my hand, the person I called would ask me what I was doing because it sounded like I was beating the phone on a hard surface. It is very frustrating.
I always assumed my call echo couldn't possibly be a hardware issue since I have never dropped my phone, nor been overly rough on it. However, after reading the above threads (including ALL the comments - scary, I know) I decided this fix was worth a try.
Now, for the fix. I take no credit for it as I simply followed in the footsteps of those brave souls who attempted this on the international version of the SII. I also assume no responsibility for any damage to your phone due to the instructions or information contained in this thread. If your phone explodes, fries, dies, breaks, you cut yourself and bleed to death, you let the magic smoke out of the phone, the fix doesn't work for you --- etc., etc., etc. --- I take no responsibility.
First things first, you will need tools (duh), a business card, scissors, probably tweezers, a credit card to pry the back off the phone, and PATIENCE!
1. Shut down your phone and remove the battery, SIM card and sd card.
2. Using the right sized Philips screwdriver remove all six screws in the order shown in the first picture. (The smallest Philips screwdriver I have is a #0 which is not small enough. However, with great care I was able to remove the screws with a 1.4mm flathead screwdriver. I recommend finding the correct size screwdriver before you try to begin.) Remember which screws went where. In case you forget or they somehow get mixed up, screws numbered 1 and 2 in the first picture do NOT have Locktite on them, the rest do.
3. Locate the prying points along the edges of the phone and use your credit card (or other sturdy, non-metallic object) to pry to clips loose. A few of the prying points are marked with arrows in the first picture. They all look similar. I recommend starting at the corner where screw #1 is and go clockwise around the edge of the phone until all but the top edge has been popped loose (unclipped). Picture 2 shows why you shouldn't try to unclip the top of the phone. There are three tabs that would be nearly impossible to pry loose without breaking them.
4. Starting at the bottom of the phone, near the speaker, carefully lift up the backing of the phone. There is a snap between the camera and flash that retains the backing. It is difficult to free it, so work slowly, keep steady pressure on it, work it back and forth, up and down, side to side until it pops loose. Again, I take no responsibility if you break the plastic backing of your phone. That said, the backing is fairly tough and can withstand moderate force (fingernail strength would probably be a good estimate of how hard you can pull on it).
5. There are no wires connecting the backing to the board of the phone, so you don't have to worry about undoing any connectors.
6. The speaker for my earphone was not secured in my phone, so I was easily able to lift it up and clean some of the pocket lint from the inside of the grill and the front surface of the speaker (please be gentle with the speaker!). I recommend you only lift it out far enough to clean under and around it, then put it back.
7. When replacing the speaker, ensure you gently push it toward the electric ribbon connecting it to the board of you phone to ensure it fully seats in the recess designed for it.
8. At this point I cut a small piece of a rubber band, about 1 mm thick, and trimmed it to fit between the earpiece and the noise cancelation microphone, which on our t989 is integrated into the board and is not accessible. There is no way to remove and reseat it like the threads for the international version recommend. However, by placing the piece of rubber band between the earpiece and noise canceling mic they become more insulated from each other, which is a good thing. The rubber was not easy to place, so patience and a steady hand go a long way here. The rubber band is circled in red and labeled 1 in picture 3. The point where the backing snaps between the camera and flash is circled in green and labeled 2 in picture 3.
9. Next I cut a piece of a business card to fit the gap between the top of the phone and the trim surrounding the camera (see picture 4 for the trim). Make sure the card doesn't cover the gold contact as explained in one of the above threads. --- see how I'm kind of forcing you to read those? ---
--- The business card I used was 0.39mm thick. I didn't measure the other dimensions. If I ever go back in for any reason I will measure them and report here, but don't hold your breath. ---
10. I then cut a piece of business card for the lower microphone. This microphone is integrated into the board of the phone as well (see picture 6). It cannot be removed and reseated like the international version can. However, I decided to place a piece of business card as shown in picture 5 in hopes it would help dampen any vibrations in the vicinity that the microphone might have otherwise picked up.
--- I used the same business card at 0.39mm thick. I didn't measure this one either. ---
11. Place the card you cut for the lower mic so that it doesn't cover the solder points for the usb connector, nor sticks over the edge on the right in picture 5 (where the arrow points). The backing of the phone has a piece of hardware that resides in that recess, so don't overhang it.
12. Time to reassemble. Make sure the business cards (or whatever you decided to use) don't move from their positions when replacing the backing of your phone. Place the three tabs along the top edge of the backing into their recesses in the top of the main frame of your phone, then rotate the backing down onto the phones frame. Snap the edges into place, and be sure to press firmly on the camera cover between the camera and flash to seat the snap there. Don't force anything though. If your phone won't snap back together just remove the backing and make sure everything is situated properly (especially the earpiece speaker). When all the snaps are seated, reinstall your sim and battery and make a test call. If your phone cover makes echo worse, make sure it's on your phone. I even flashed an AOSP rom that notoriously gave me call echo.
13. If you're happy with the results, continue to step 14. If not, go back and rethink how you installed everything. Maybe you need to use a more sturdy business card, or cut it to different dimensions, or use a thicker or thinner card. Use your head and think it through. You can do it. Just be careful in there.
14. Congratulations! You did it! All you need to do is reinstall the six screws and you are done! I installed them in the exact opposite order as I removed them (starting with 6 and working to 1). Anyone who has installed a cylinder head on a car will know the reasoning behind this (to help prevent kinks or ripples in the material between the screws).
This all passed the wife test for me, and it helped muffle the sound of shifting my fingers on my phone. It no longer sounds like I'm beating it on a hard surface!
I really hope this works as well for you all as it has for me. Now, keep in mind that I have only made a few test calls since finishing this, but every person on the other end has said everything is crystal clear. I can now run AOSP ROM's on my Hercules!!! No tape over the noise cancellation microphone required!
Again, please go to the above threads and thank those guys. I take no credit for the fix. All I did was provide pictures specific to the Hercules (and maybe similar to Skyrocket????).
Enjoy!
Wow!
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Wow...thanks op, but...**** that lol
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blackangst said:
Wow...thanks op, but...**** that lol
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Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's actually easier than you think. The back cover pops right off basically. The hardest part was cutting the pieces of business card to the right size.
And there's no marking or tape that would tell the warranty center you were inside your phone.
This really works. I used a piece of rubber from a bicycle tire repair kit just because I did not want the paper to draw moisture.
Simply flash CM10.1 and echo will be gone. However, big thanks to OP for this experiment.
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Ya thanks OP, but you could try to flash CM 10.1 Nightly 2/22 or 2/24 and the call echo will vanish. If not you could flash different radios and the call echo will be gone.
Amanwithnomoney said:
Ya thanks OP, but you could try to flash CM 10.1 Nightly 2/22 or 2/24 and the call echo will vanish. If not you could flash different radios and the call echo will be gone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, but echo was present on every Rom I flashed. Stock Roms were better, but echo was still there.
This fix is for people who have echo on all Roms. If cm10.1 fixes it for you then go that route, but it just didn't work for me. Besides, I can flash anything I want now.
Easier to do than I had first thought , thanks for the thread.:good:
I had echo problems with Groove IP (cell tower calling worked just fine). This was the fix for goove IP echoing as well on my 989. :good:
This is kinda irrelevant, OP, but I see you're involved in Scentsy in some manner. Lol
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Daltonyx said:
This is kinda irrelevant, OP, but I see you're involved in Scentsy in some manner. Lol
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Click to collapse
Hahaha. Caught me red handed.
No hate. Lol. My mother is hardcore into it. She is one of the superstar consultant people. I've learned to recognize it, to say the least.
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Alarmmy said:
Simply flash CM10.1 and echo will be gone. However, big thanks to OP for this experiment.
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Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What you and the OP are talking about are two different things. His is a hardware issue for call echo. The CM flash/fix is for the bad call/underwater sound software issue that the noise suppression fixes.
Hey guys :victory:
Many of us have the power button problem. Mine was so damaged that i literally had to hurt my finger to turn it on/off. I decided to replace it myself, as my warranty expired.
I'm sorry i said i would have made a video of it but i dont have a camera, so i can just help you with the steps i took.
First of all, i had to buy the replacement for the flex cable of the volume rocker+power button.
Here's what i bought http://www.ebay.it/itm/330846683561?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 wich is the cheapest i found (and it's original, exactly the same as the one already inside the phone).
Then, as i didn't have a kit to do it, i bought this http://www.ebay.it/itm/111091878763?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649, which is a very good kit.
I bought it for also other stuff but to fix our phone i only used the first 3 pieces from the left, the cross screwdriver, and the long piece on the top. The other pieces are not needed to fix the power button, so if you want you can just look for what i mentioned. But i can assure you that what i used is very important, without them you cant really take the screen out.
Ok! Once arrived, i started fixing it!
Unluckily i couldnt find on youtube a well made disassembly tutorial, but well, what i found was enough:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RXft7kDwUL8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w96ldQq5Q2k
Watching these 2 videos, i understood how to take the antenna part off (which is not easy at all).
Ok, if you are also willing to fix your button on your own, here are some tips i can give you:
- The antenna part seems very fragile, so take your time, don't force it off if it resists.
Once you took the 6 screws off, you need to pull the piece off. Don't worry that plastic piesce doesn't have any cable, so you can take it off without worrying. Under it there's some glue and stuff, but force it a little and it will come off.
- In the 2 videos, as you can see, when he takes the antenna part off, you can see a part moving around. In my case, that didn't come off with the plastic piece, it had glue sticking it to the case. I unsticked it very carefully using the long piece of the kit. Be very careful there, do not pull it until it's all unsticked, because it is connected to the screen, and if you pull it you could either break the cable or the piece itself.
- once that is all unsticked, you need to take the screen off. Ok that was drammatic, not easy at all, it took me almost 30 minutes. After removing the screws under the camera plastic piece, you can start pushing as they do in the video. To help it coming out, i had to put the 2 aluminium pieces (the 2 identical ones) at the sides, between the screen and the case. Don't worry at pushing it in, i did it hard but my case didn't scratch or anything. You will see the screen coming up little by little, when you can, take it out with your hands (slowly! don't crack it!)
Oooook, when that part is done, you don't need the videos anymore.
I didn't take the battery out, you don't need to. Remove the black plastic piece covering the camera, it has only 3 screws.
Once that's done, on the left side of the screen, you will see the flex cable we need to replace. It has some glue but don't worry, take it off, that's broken anyway while taking it off, be careful not to break the cable inside the connector, because the space is tight and i guess it would be hard pulling it out.
Ok! Once done, take your new flew cable, and put it in the connector, then take the adhesive off and put the parts where they were before, There are some little holes in it to guide you when replacing it.
Once done, before re assembling the phone, try the power button and volume as well. (that's why i didn't remove the battery). If it works, you can now re assemble your phone. So put the black plastic piece on the camera again, next you have to reinsert the screen in the case. I suggest you start by the side of the volume rocker, and then push the rest inside.
Now, you need to reasseble the antenna part. Before doing that, be sure tto re-stick the moving part to the case, in the exact position as before, otherwise when you put back the antenna cover you'll se it wont close well. (That took me quite a while, it's not easy at it seems).
Put the screws back int and boom! You are done
Your power button now works!!!!!
Sorry again for not taking a video, or photos, but well, as i did it, you can do it too.
I hope you can all understand the guide!
Bye bye
Nooby
The only photos I can show you are these:
This is how a damaged power button should look
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These are the pieces I'd say you ABSOLUTELY need
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LOL You finally made the video :good:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1808423&page=3
Hardware repair is recommended but for those who aren't family with it and your device is rooted. I've a software solution fixed this problem completely, read my post #24 about Quickboot + Screen Off and Lock + android.policy.jar
WOW didn't know this was even possible way to go man. Amazing. I'd never have dared it.
This was really interesting and I'm looking to try it soon
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Next, replacing the digitizer, i cracked it :banghead:
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mr_nooby said:
Next, replacing the digitizer, i cracked it :banghead:
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Click to collapse
Mine's broken too, but we went to someone to get it fixed (with just he glass that we had ordered off of ebay) and we were told that the digitizer was attatched to the LCD, and there were chances of touch not working.
Yeah I noticed that :/
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