Is there a wifi app that selects the strongest signal for you to connect to? I have a router in one part of the house and I connect to it using the 5G band. We put in a good wifi extender that covers the other part of the house. I also connect to it using the 5G band. When I go from one far side of the house to the other, the closest access point gives me full bars while the other one only has 1. But my phone will stay connected to the old one. Even if the wifi shuts off when the phone is in deep sleep when I wake it up it will connect to the weaker one. So I was wondering if there was an app that would force it to connect to the best signal.
Just installed "Best Wifi" yesterday and it seems to accomplish this fine, although the notification it makes is not required for me while walking around the house. There are several other apps I found that should work for this as well. "Best Wifi" allows you to set the signal strength at which it will start looking for your other signal.
I further enhanced this with "Llama". I have Llama tell the phone when I get in my home zone, which then turns wifi on. When wifi connects, "Llama" then turns on "Best Wifi". And the reverse, when I leave home "Llama" kills "Best Wifi", and then shuts off the wifi altogether.
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I have a N7100 and I am also having wifi connectivity issues
I read the old wifi connectivity thread but my issue doesn't seem to be the same.
.I have a broadband wifi router which I also use an iPad, win Xp laptop, HTC Wildfire S and Motorola defy through, all of which have been fine (using WEP encryption)
)Unfortunately the note II seems to connect but then doesn't access the Internet.
The phone's wifi page shows connection. It connects then receives and IP address but then the alert comes up that there is no Internet access. I also use fing which says that there is no wifi network.
I''ve downloaded the apps wifi manager and wifi analyser to try and get to the bottom of it but they both say I have good signal strength and are connected.
Wifi analyser showed there was a bit of crossover from another AP router next door so I changed the channel to give clear air between us. I then reconnected all the devices and they all work -apart from my new Note.
My question so are 1)is there any more i can do to fix it. 2)where should I look to find the logs which might let me diagnose it a bit better . I should add that sometimes it just works and can browse and download as normal, but most of the time it doesn't.
I started to have trouble connecting to wifis few days ago, it says that signal is very strong i even see full bars and it stops on "containing IP adress" and then shows up window that signal is poor and doesnt connect, but wifi is working my friend next to me was connected, its in a bar and like 2 weeks ago i was able to connect to that very same wifi, very disappointing, no clue what could be wrong
This has been plaguing me for a while and it's making me hate this phone. I've also seen this issue pop around the internet so it's not just me.
What happens is the wifi stays connected to the router but has no connectivity (i've tried pinging the gateway when it happens, the connection is dead although it is listed in the router as connected). And it happens totally random, sometimes it works entire day, sometimes it happens every hour or worse. This seems to have gotten worse with MM. I used to be able to fix it with turning wifi off/on but now even reboot wont help (it connects to the router but immediately says no internet on wifi), i have to reset wifi on the router for it to start working. I have 2 other androids (kitkat, lolipop), an iphone 5, tablet with a hybrid OS, 2 laptops and a desktop on the wifi working without issues so that kinda rules out the router as the sole culprit (it's a Technicolor crap from my ISP that i can't change, i can only buy an additional AP but i have no idea it will help). Ofc, when the connectivity is lost, the phone is still connected to the wifi, hence doesn't switch to network and i stop receiving notifications, which is driving me insane (also a work phone).
I recently installed an app ("wifi connection manager", the app itself is fairly useless, half the stuff doesn't really work that well, and all the options are really things you can do manually) that has a background service that i thought would keep the connection alive. It worked for about a week and then all of a sudden it stopped. I've tries everything else, short of reflashing the phone.
So after ****ing around for the 1000th time, trying to figure it out i realized that turning the WMM off (router QoS) stops the connectivity issues. Problem with this solution is that my download rate over the wifi drops by half immediately (from 50mbit to 25) and after a while all the wifi connections start to deteriorate to the point where it becomes painfully slow. What's more puzzling however is that when i do turn it off, the G4 connects via 802.11g (and for some reason this makes the connection not lose connectivity). Other devices connect via 802.11n whether WMM is off or on (except the desktop, which has an old wifi card, also on 11g).
Sorry for the wall of text. This and the anticipation of a bootloop is making me seriously regret my purchase.
So my two questions are:
1. Is there a way for me to force the G4 to connect via 802.11g even when WMM is On ? It obviously chooses how to connect on it's own.
2. Given the history of events, is there a network guy somewhere here that could identify wth is going on ?
Thanks a lot for those that made it this far
I wonder if anyone can advise how this problem might be fixed:
I have a fire-tv stick in my bedroom the latest version which has a voice remote and connects using WiFi direct instead of bluetooth. I'm using 2.4Ghz wifi (using a TalkTalk hg633 super router). I can't use 5Ghz because the signal to my bedroom isn't good enough on 5Ghz. On 2.4Ghz the link score from inSSIDer is 91 with the fire-tv stick unplugged, with a signal of -50dBm. With the fire-tv stick on a WiFi Direct AP appears on inSSIDer with a signal of -39dBm (ie stronger than my normal wifi signal). The link score drops to 71.
If I test download speeds and pings, then with WiFi direct off, i get decent downloads speeds (around 20Mbps) and 18ms pings in my bedroom, in the lounge its a little higher. With Wi-Fi direct on, download speeds drop below 7mbps, sometimes 1mbps, pings increase to 200ms (although I have seen 10,000ms) and the connection often disconnects so the download speed test or ping is unable to complete. (I get about 2 tests that work out of 6, the others fail due to connection issues).
The upshot of all this is that I can't get a reliable streaming service on my fire-tv stick. especially in the evening. The network often disconnects, or slows to a crawl so I get frequent buffering, inability to stream at all or a poor quality picture. In the lounge, I often find my PC disconnects when wifi direct is on though streaming is less of a problem (because there the wifi signal is about 5dBM greater than the WIfi-Direct signal
I contacted amazon, and they suggested changing the channel of my wifi so it isn't on the same channel a Wifi Direct. That doesn't work because the WiFi Direct signal follows my wifi onto the same channel.
I can't use a lan cable (no option for this on a fire-tv stick, and I shouldn't have to in any case). I don't want to add extra extenders / APs to my wifi network as that might just make things worse.
Does anyone know of any way to switch off WiFi direct and use bluetooth for the remote or the FireTV app on my phone instead? Or to decrease the power of the wifi direct signal, or any other solution?
I wonder about switching to an older fire-stick with bluetooth remote - but that I think would mean I lose the voice search facility?
If I swapped to a full Fire TV with voice remote - do they use bluetooth or Wifi Direct?
Same problem. Not as dire a situation because it's in my kid's bedroom and not mine. :silly: But it interferes with the WiFi signal in areas that are closer to her room than my home router.
Not sure why AMZ chose to use the same channel as the FireTV stick talks to your WiFi network on to do their communication to their remote. That seems like a really bad design - if it's messing the 2 of us up, it has to be doing the same for a whole lot of people.
I tried changing my home WiFi from channel 11 to 1 in troubleshooting and had the same experience as you - the FireTV stick's WiFi changed right along with it to continue to clobber my home WiFi signal. Been through the menus in FireTV stick - no way I can see to change its behavior. Google search led me here.
Hi,
Whilst I stand by everything I said, in attempting to get Amazon to replace my remote with one that used bluetooth instead of wifi-direct, they sent me exactly the same remote in replacement. It still uses wifi-direct. However, it has worked fine, despite being on the same channel. That suggests that some remotes are faulty and causing or exacerbating the problem. Exactly why that would be I don't know, but it's all working fine for me now.
Roku has been doing this for years Here is a link to there form maybe amazon will listen I just got a new one for another room but no network problems and is faster on menu loading so I can live with it.
You're always gonna have problems with a ton of stuff on 2.4ghz. If your router has 5ghz, I would recommend reorganizing if possible, or getting a stronger router. 5ghz means no headaches, no problems with other things, controllers\remote work fine, etc.
Can someone please tell me what is the role of the Wifi on the Galaxy Watch?
I read that it is supposed to give me my notifications if i walk out of blue tooth range but it does no such thing. In fact it disconnects.
It says I am connected and then it goes off. I have it on AUTO. I assume when I am not in blue tooth range it should connect. It does nothing like that. What is the difference between auto and always on? I can't find this documentation anywhere!
Second...what does it even do?
Also, will this work with a big hospital wifi? I have it on on my phone, I turn on the wifi ON ALWAYS and it comes on ,but auto it does not. What is the difference?
So I guess my questions are:
1. Why does my WIFI connect and then go off after a brief amount of time??. This happens while I am on a hospital wifi that is connected to my phone, allows me to connect for maybe 10 - 60 seconds then the wifi icon goes away. Is this because it is a public wifi? I know that I am connected but it is lost.
2. Whenever I connect to this wifi, I have to turn on the wifi ALWAYS ON to see the options. That's stupid! What is the function of the AUTO then??
Any help would be needed because I want to be able to fully use the functions of my watch.
I work in a hospital and sometimes leave my phone in my office. The WiFi on my watch kicks in and I do receive all of my notifications. The only thing is that I cannot respond to them and I am guessing it's because I use a pixel 3xl and not a Samsung phone...
How can I test my WiFi connection to see how clean it is? I don't mean how strong it is... it's strong as heck thanks to the app WiFi Analyzer.
Plus, I'm literally two feet from the WiFi router.
But ever since I switched from cable to fiber Internet, my cellphone has had WiFi issues. Not sure if Fiber is the reason but it was around that time.
I've configured the WiFi router for bridged-mode and am using my old WiFi router that worked great with my phone.
I've tried stock Android, Dirty Unicorns and Ressurection Remix and all three have the same issue even though I'm doing a full-format in between ROM.
Like, connecting to Messages for Web (Google Messages) on my PC, it refuses to authenticate with my phone if I'm on WiFI. But the moment I switch to Cellular, Messages for Web picks up my phone right away.
And Pandora will time out if I'm on WiFi. But if I switch to Cellular, it connects right away. And sometimes after switching back to WiFi it will keep playing.
But speed test apps are all getting me low ms ping and blazing fast download speeds on WiFi.
EDIT NEVERMIND
Hahah, I just realized there was a thin metal plate resting on top of the test WiFi router I implemented.
The metal plate was severely much of the WiFi signal. I never noticed it because the WiFi router was above eye level.
So, the AT&T Fiber WiFi router sucked but the test WiFi router is working fine after I removed the metal plate that someone left sitting on top of it.
I have similar issue, but not consistent. Wifi is connected, everything seems fine, but sometimes it stops responding as if wifi is connected but no internet. As I switch off wifi internet starts working immediately or I have to wait a few seconds and refresh whatever I was using(browser, whatsapp etc).
Like you I am using fiber and to make sure if it is router based, I switched from crappy Huawei to a bit better Xiaomi router. But issue still there.
But there is some improvement if I select a relatively empty channel on 2.4ghz or 5ghz(neighbors dose not know about 5ghz too much). 2.4Ghz there is always problem but 5Ghz seems better(range sucks yes) and I think problem is based on channels.
I switched to fiber long ago and cable was more smoother but cable modem or router was quality, here ISP's are using very bad routers based on low end Huawei or TP-Link.