Develop Bugs

No Wifi after Device was dropped

Maybee some of you guys have a idea how I can fix this.
Recently I dropped my phone onto a concret floor (about 80 cm drop).
After that WiFi is broken.
If I turn on wifi in my desire, it automatically turns the wifi of after about 5 seconds (CM 7.02, Radio 32.56.00.32U5.17.05.23)
I already opend the phone but could not see any obvious damage.
I flashed several different ROMs, but they did did not solve the problem.
Today I flashed ICS Beta v0.17.1.1 by Sandvold.
This did not fix the problem but in this ROM the button for turning on WIFI in the settings is "dark grey" and nothing happens if you push the button.
Anybody has a Idea on how th get wifi back on my good old phone ?

Install new radio. If that not helps install new wifi antenn.
Sent from my HTC Desire using xda app-developers app

henrikht said:
Install new radio. If that not helps install new wifi antenn.
Sent from my HTC Desire using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok, flashing a different radio did not help.
How can I change the wifi antenna ?
I did not find any tutorials/manuals on that.

Hi!
You mentioned that you opened your phone - Did you make sure that the wifi antenna cable is still attached? It's one of those tiny little connectors and the one time I saw a friend open his Desire, it was veery easy to get it to disconnect itself. Maybe it popped and just LOOKED like it was still there, because it can't really go anywhere, but isn't really connected.
I would love to link an image, but sadly I can't do so as new user.

Vortagh said:
Hi!
You mentioned that you opened your phone - Did you make sure that the wifi antenna cable is still attached?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I saw the wifi-antenna-cable. It was a black cable, locatet at the opposit site of the volum control buttons, with 90° angled connector at both ends.
I disconnected both sides and made sure they snapped into the socket firmly befor putting the phone back together.

Hello, you can?
Brackatzi said:
Yes, I saw the wifi-antenna-cable. It was a black cable, locatet at the opposit site of the volum control buttons, with 90° angled connector at both ends.
I disconnected both sides and made sure they snapped into the socket firmly befor putting the phone back together.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hello,
you managed to solve the problem of error wifi?
How did you manage?
Best Regards.
Raul Martins.

raulpmartins said:
hello,
you managed to solve the problem of error wifi?
How did you manage?
Best Regards.
Raul Martins.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was not able to fix it.
Gave the Desire to a Friend who dose not need wifi and got me an Galaxy Nexus.

Microsoft Wedge Mouse

I have no problem connecting to my LG phone which is running Android 4.1.2 but for the life of me I cannot get my Note 10.1 2014 to connect or even see my wedge mouse. Any ideas?

Mickeylittle said:
I have no problem connecting to my LG phone which is running Android 4.1.2 but for the life of me I cannot get my Note 10.1 2014 to connect or even see my wedge mouse. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was able to get mine successfully paired and working. Just got my new Note 10.1 today.
In the bluetooth setting, making sure I check-marked "make device discoverable" I flipped my Wedge over, pressed the power button once until it lit steady blue, then held it down until it went into pairing mode, then I hit 'Scan' on the Note and in seconds it found the Wedge mouse.

Perfect!
dlg_dlg said:
I was able to get mine successfully paired and working. Just got my new Note 10.1 today.
In the bluetooth setting, making sure I check-marked "make device discoverable" I flipped my Wedge over, pressed the power button once until it lit steady blue, then held it down until it went into pairing mode, then I hit 'Scan' on the Note and in seconds it found the Wedge mouse.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Perfect.... I should have read the directions! Thanks!!!:victory:

You're welcome. I've missed that little gem of "make device discoverable" myself in the past and learned my lesson from it.

Mickeylittle said:
Perfect.... I should have read the directions! Thanks!!!:victory:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah....reading the directions sucks. Lol... it's like asking for directions on the road.
...Sent from my Tablet...Please excuse any typo's...

dlg_dlg said:
You're welcome. I've missed that little gem of "make device discoverable" myself in the past and learned my lesson from it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I made the device discoverable. The problem I had was the 1-2 punch of (1) turning the mouse on & (2) then pressing and holding to get it into pairing mode. I guess I got lucky when I was messing with it on my phone and got it paired.

Mickeylittle said:
I made the device discoverable. The problem I had was the 1-2 punch of (1) turning the mouse on & (2) then pressing and holding to get it into pairing mode. I guess I got lucky when I was messing with it on my phone and got it paired.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah, you are far better than I. Some products default to discoverable mode, others not. It took me several tries on some devices to realize I had to put it in discoverable mode myself - basically, not paying attention to the screen text - and I found most fam/friends did the same, so I assumed that was the issue. Nonetheless, the connection button actions ... it took me three attempts to figure that one out
But tell me, do you find the cursor movement erratic with the Wedge on the Note 10.1 (2014)? Mine seems to be jerky quite often, sluggish to perform a movement.

dlg_dlg said:
Ah, you are far better than I. Some products default to discoverable mode, others not. It took me several tries on some devices to realize I had to put it in discoverable mode myself - basically, not paying attention to the screen text - and I found most fam/friends did the same, so I assumed that was the issue. Nonetheless, the connection button actions ... it took me three attempts to figure that one out
But tell me, do you find the cursor movement erratic with the Wedge on the Note 10.1 (2014)? Mine seems to be jerky quite often, sluggish to perform a movement.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So far it is jerky. I'm not too sure how much I will use it since the sPen does mostly the same thing anyway. Overall I'm very happy with the tablet but maybe when/if we get all 8 cores up and going or once we get our tablets fine tuned just like we want them, things will settle into place.

For those of you that have it working, what does the right-click on your mouse do? I have a note 10 (2012 version) and will probably be upgrading to the 10 or 12. I have one major problem using my note as a work terminal connecting to a citrix session: The right mouse button acts as a 'back' command in anything, including within the citrix session. I have another, older samsung 10" tab and the right click is ignored at the OS level, but within Citrix it works as expected. I believe the OS is applying a default behavior of a 'back' function to any right click on the later device(s) and am wondering if anyone here has any input on it's behavior in the latest devices.
Thanks for any input

Smart Lock Feature

I set up my ZenWatch as a trusted device and it is showing that its being used. The strange thing is when my phone is on my desk and the screen sleeps for some time or if I am in the car (I also have my car stereo setup as trusted) it still asked for my fingerprint to unlock. Any idea why this is? My last device didnt do this. I am also using the Google Now Launcher if that matters at all.

Does it always ask for your fingerprint? I think it will ask the first time for your fingerprint and not on subsequent times while you are connected to a trusted device.

Acill said:
I set up my ZenWatch as a trusted device and it is showing that its being used. The strange thing is when my phone is on my desk and the screen sleeps for some time or if I am in the car (I also have my car stereo setup as trusted) it still asked for my fingerprint to unlock. Any idea why this is? My last device didnt do this. I am also using the Google Now Launcher if that matters at all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine did the same thing with my Gear S. It hasn't happened today so it may have been fixed in the update.

serpent2005 said:
Does it always ask for your fingerprint? I think it will ask the first time for your fingerprint and not on subsequent times while you are connected to a trusted device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not allways, but after about 15 minutes or so of it sitting it will once I press the home button to turn the screen on.

If your watch at any point, loses connection to your phone, it will trigger the smart lock off. Even if it reconnects again on its own before you use the phone again. Once smart lock is tripped, it can't go back without authorization.

serpent2005 said:
Does it always ask for your fingerprint? I think it will ask the first time for your fingerprint and not on subsequent times while you are connected to a trusted device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just thought I'd clear this up in case anyone was wondering. When you connect to a trusted device, the lock automatically disables. I use mine with my car's bluetooth. The second it connects, phone unlocks automatically.

RK3188 JY 3g problem

My rk3188 jy unit has a weird 3g problem.If i drive 10km or 300km my 3g conection works as it should(perfect).If it looses the signal it automaticly reconects when the signal becomes availible. But if i park in a garage where i dont have a signal and i wake up the unit from sleep i dont get any signal until i do a full reboot.
Has anyone have the same problem and knows how to solve this?

Instead of doing af full reboot try turning Wifi off and then on in the settings menu. That works for me if the 3G connection is lost. Disconnecting af reconnecting the 3G Dongle also does the trick but can be impossible if the dongle is behind the dash board

HenrikH29 said:
Instead of doing af full reboot try turning Wifi off and then on in the settings menu. That works for me if the 3G connection is lost. Disconnecting af reconnecting the 3G Dongle also does the trick but can be impossible if the dongle is behind the dash board
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have similar problem but on boot. Sometimes the dongle is there and connects and sometimes not.
If i reboot immediately then it connects ok.
(once connected its rock solid and is always there but its hit and miss whether android sees its at boot up time)
Anyone else?
Is there a script to prolong checking for the dongle or something?

pants001 said:
I have similar problem but on boot. Sometimes the dongle is there and connects and sometimes not.
If i reboot immediately then it connects ok.
(once connected its rock solid and is always there but its hit and miss whether android sees its at boot up time)
Anyone else?
Is there a script to prolong checking for the dongle or something?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same problem

andi1203 said:
I have the same problem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good to know its not just me then.
Its driving me batty.....Is there an App or widget to reboot just USB port?
Even that would be more helpful than a full android reboot

pants001 said:
Good to know its not just me then.
Its driving me batty.....Is there an App or widget to reboot just USB port?
Even that would be more helpful than a full android reboot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe that the problem is a USB power problem. It should help WiFi off and on again, I can not just test only. Sorry for my google-englisch [emoji1]
There is a USB cable y for external hard drives. Take the power from two USB ports. Maybe that helps even ...

andi1203 said:
I believe that the problem is a USB power problem. It should help WiFi off and on again, I can not just test only. Sorry for my google-englisch [emoji1]
There is a USB cable y for external hard drives. Take the power from two USB ports. Maybe that helps even ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ive got it plugged into a Y cable now and using both rear ports. (No difference)...I dont think its a power issue since ones its running it never drops out.
Only seems an issue on initial boot.
Ill try front USB port and let you know if any difference
(Not really a solution though since who wants **** hanging out the front)

pants001 said:
Ive got it plugged into a Y cable now and using both rear ports. (No difference)...I dont think its a power issue since ones its running it never drops out.
Only seems an issue on initial boot.
Ill try front USB port and let you know if any difference
(Not really a solution though since who wants **** hanging out the front)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you try connecting the Y-cable to an external USB power supply and se if that helps. I dont think using 2 USB ports on the unit would make any difference if its the USB Power from the unit thats not strong enough.

HenrikH29 said:
Could you try connecting the Y-cable to an external USB power supply and se if that helps. I dont think using 2 USB ports on the unit would make any difference if its the USB Power from the unit thats not strong enough.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the problem has to have to be solved somehow. me it has also excited. so I bought a 3G WiFi router with battery. but I have to reboot from time to time. it needs to go with the 3G stick anyway.

andi1203 said:
the problem has to have to be solved somehow. me it has also excited. so I bought a 3G WiFi router with battery. but I have to reboot from time to time. it needs to go with the 3G stick anyway.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok front USB port makes no difference.
Apps to turn off 3g data and back on make no difference.
Its seems to be, if the dongle isnt seen at start up then its not usable until you reboot or physically disconnect dongle and re-insert.
---------- Post added at 05:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:25 PM ----------
pants001 said:
Ok front USB port makes no difference.
Apps to turn off 3g data and back on make no difference.
Its seems to be, if the dongle isnt seen at start up then its not usable until you reboot or physically disconnect dongle and re-insert.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This URL is for raspberry PI fix for exactly the same issue so im thinking we need same for android.
How to slow android looking for Dongle until its ready.
https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=74042

Have you found a solution?

andi1203 said:
Have you found a solution?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not yet, havent had the time to play around but over weekend ill look into the init files during boot up and work out where to implement a delay.
Shouldnt be hard?

???

andi1203 said:
???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry Andi, havent forgotten, just never found a correct placement for delay.
I still have the issue

Carperformance.se Uconnect Android system help.

I am hoping I can find some help in here with a couple problems I am running into on this system that would make it so much better to me.
The system is basically an Android box utilizing the touch screen and monitor of my Uconnect 8.4 head unit. The naming in the settings is rk3188 and is running on KitKat 4.4.4, so it is some variant of the Android TV boxes. If there are other specs or info that are needed to help in possibly fixing my issues please let me know.
Issue 1: although not major, there is no option to have OK Google from any screen. Having this option for a car system is obviously something helpful. In the settings of the Google App trying to access the menu for OK Google detection doesn't work, so I can't even get to the screen where that option lives. I have the most up to date version of Google App and Google Play Services. I have Google searched on ways to fix this but nothing has brought that ability up. I know Android version 4.4.4 was capable of this. There was another app that utilized Googles voice engine and allowed this function but Google made him stop using their servers and killed that as an option.
Issue 2: this is the biggest bother to me and I could not find anything even related to what's happening in my searches. The system comes loaded with some apps and using Launcher3 for its front end, it has big buttons but offers almost no ability to customize it. The bottom row has apps that you cannot switch out to anything else, and 3 of them I will never be using. The system works but is not as nice as it could look or function. The obvious answer is to use a different launcher which is where the problem arises. I have tried to use Nova and Apex so far with the same very frustrating outcome. After the install everything is great, I can set the screen up to look amazing and add icons and functionality that really make it a great experience. So everything is working lovely then I shut my truck off and go do whatever. The next time I come back I start the truck up everything loads fine, the new launcher and everything I did to it is working just as expected until about 5 minutes in the screen goes black for a second and then the system goes through a factory reset. Really? Are you kidding me? The first couple times I thought maybe I hit something because I hadn't fully put my truck back together but after playing with it more and having the system factory reset 5 other times I have concluded it is related to changing the launcher. I tried Nova first, then I tried Apex with the same outcome and same sequence of events. Obviously it's annoying everytime testing this because updating and reentering my info everytime just to try the launcher again is time consuming. The last test the only thing I did was a different launcher so that has to be it, but why and how can I fix it?
If anyone has any clue how using a different launcher would cause a factory reset to happen please help me out. Or if there is anything I can do to this system to prevent that. My last resort thought would be to root it but I read someone else who has this system that rooting it caused screen layout issues and made things go 90 degrees off? The loaded apps in the system have touch screen calibration and screen resizing which might be necessary for this to function with the monitor.
Thanks for any help.

I spoke with someone else that has the system and they are not having any issues with running a different launcher so something happen to my particular device. I contacted the company and they will be getting me the firmware to refresh it and hopefully that fixes the resetting issue.

i am looking to get this also. I am very curious how you like the device - it looks great though a bit out of date. Waze & email should work well. How much storage does it have? Can you add a sd card or something?

RichTJ99 said:
i am looking to get this also. I am very curious how you like the device - it looks great though a bit out of date. Waze & email should work well. How much storage does it have? Can you add a sd card or something?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm getting a new unit sent out, it seems there are 2 versions and for whatever reason mine wouldn't let me customize the launcher.
But even though it's outdated, every app I tried worked just fine, they still install the latest versions. The system has 8gb of on board storage and a microSD card slot that is mainly for loading maps for offline navigation. I think you can still access it for other uses, but they have a better option for that. There is a USB input for flash drives or external drives. I tried my 2TB external drive on it and it accessed my movies fine from it.

How did you get it installed? Who?

got any pics?

Actually I would be interested in this too, I have an Alfa Romeo and the Uconnect 6.5 (european version) which isn't that great, it would be nice to attach a sort of box with ARM hardware running on Android and using the display and touch of the existing Uconnect. The question is, how this can be done?

http://www.dodgedurango.net/forums/.../24632-android-phone-uconnect-8-4-screen.html
I would check out this thread. It has two videos that walk you through the entire process - great info!

I also bought this latest Android system V4 2 weeks ago. Auto launcher pro app is very good working. At the moment there is a issue with the system time, which is not correctly synchronized with gps time. Carperformance Team is working on a fix for that. How can I get root Access for this Android 7 System?

Diabollon said:
I also bought this latest Android system V4 2 weeks ago. Auto launcher pro app is very good working. At the moment there is a issue with the system time, which is not correctly synchronized with gps time. Carperformance Team is working on a fix for that. How can I get root Access for this Android 7 System?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
glad to hear i'm not going crazy with the clock but there is an issue.
I just bought and installed a V4 a couple weeks back too.
i must have left a loose connection cause i keep having to recall the touchscreen for android. I half-arsed the install cause we were leaving for a 2k mile roadtrip the next day- need to take it apart and do it right. Luckily you can connect a usb mouse in to trigger the calibration app.
id also love root- at the moment im trying to figure out if the one usb port is safe to connect an A to A usb cable into to get ADB. apparently on some versions of nvida sheild, you can. If they provide a firmware update for the clock fix then maybe that gets us an image to futz with for root.
a keyboard also works in teh usb port and i've tried a handful of key combos during boot to get to recovery but haven't stumbled on it yet.
I'll post back if i find anything

michaelk said:
glad to hear i'm not going crazy with the clock but there is an issue.
I just bought and installed a V4 a couple weeks back too.
i must have left a loose connection cause i keep having to recall the touchscreen for android. I half-arsed the install cause we were leaving for a 2k mile roadtrip the next day- need to take it apart and do it right. Luckily you can connect a usb mouse in to trigger the calibration app.
id also love root- at the moment im trying to figure out if the one usb port is safe to connect an A to A usb cable into to get ADB. apparently on some versions of nvida sheild, you can. If they provide a firmware update for the clock fix then maybe that gets us an image to futz with for root.
a keyboard also works in teh usb port and i've tried a handful of key combos during boot to get to recovery but haven't stumbled on it yet.
I'll post back if i find anything
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi @michaelk
Good to hear that I am not alone here with this special system V4. Except for the issue with the system time and no root access, I am fully satisfied so far. I hope to fix it soon. If we had root access then we could solve this issue with the system time with some time apps ourselves.
Thank you for your experiences.
Best regards
Diabollon

wiring harness investigation
so played around some today.
I've got an issue where I need to recalibrate the screen almost every time I boot. it seems the box (or card added to the radio?) forgets things and only works the bottom right corner and also seems to rotate 90 degrees at boot. The end result is unusable screen. I think carperformance is just a reseller because of their response. They're friendly and reply quickly but are really unable to help. The first answer was just randomly fiddle with screen and try to find calibrate setting and reboot- that proved impossible and on my own I discovered a 6 dollar USB mouse from the Walmart could be used to navigate to the calibrate app. When I inquired again when it got more frequent they basically said it's not normal and offered no help except to adjust a personalization setting to run calibrate on boot- that only works once that I can figure (might be related to weird time bug)- so I settled on having tasker run calibrate on each boot. I wonder if there is a battery in the box that needs changing but the warranty sticker keeps me out for not- might add an external battery to keep it alive for a longer time to minimize the rebooting
Anyway took everything apart today to double-check and can't find any connection issues. I traced the harness a bit to try and understand a little and basically, the skinny cables run the daughterboard to snag the screen output and the touchscreen input. But i wanted to figure out what is tapped from the radio harness to the large white plug on the box and see if anything going on their .
DISCLAIMER- I NEED TO CONFIRM (it was hot - laughing) but basically seems what is tapped in radio harness is:
1) power and ground also
2) L&R aux audio signal- interesting here is they tapped a single ground (physically next to the right signal) for common. Earlier i had the RAX hack and their harness used a ground for each L&R and their aux input worked all the time without the little plugin shunt thing to trick aux input. When i dug some more and found a pin diagram from mopar I found that the 'left' ground is actually labeled "aux audio device detect signal" I need to play some more to see what happens but my guess is if we put a switch on that to short it to ground then the aux would just work to avoid the hokey plug.
3) Here's the fun- holding the screen to flip inputs could be the daughterboard running things. BUT since it also reacts to the left steering wheel button pack and switches inputs itself when you need the reverse cam- i figured it reads the can bus. and sure enough, it looks like it taps CAN IHS (+) and CAN IHS (-). Very cool that it would get into the whole bus and read anything- BUT since there are other FCA vehicles that don't auto-switch inputs on revers and they have alternate connections it seems the real dev is not involved to update things to sniff for other reverse signals. Reading around here- seems that there is probably a custom serial port someplace in the box that reads this and there's probably no documentation for us to do anything ourselves. But one can hope...
---------- Post added at 06:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:07 PM ----------
michaelk said:
glad to hear i'm not going crazy with the clock but there is an issue.
I just bought and installed a V4 a couple weeks back too.
i must have left a loose connection cause i keep having to recall the touchscreen for android. I half-arsed the install cause we were leaving for a 2k mile roadtrip the next day- need to take it apart and do it right. Luckily you can connect a usb mouse in to trigger the calibration app.
id also love root- at the moment im trying to figure out if the one usb port is safe to connect an A to A usb cable into to get ADB. apparently on some versions of nvida sheild, you can. If they provide a firmware update for the clock fix then maybe that gets us an image to futz with for root.
a keyboard also works in teh usb port and i've tried a handful of key combos during boot to get to recovery but haven't stumbled on it yet.
I'll post back if i find anything
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So the spec for the chipset for the V4 says it can handle an OTG port and a couple (maybe 3?) other USB ports. Obviously, the box only has the one USB A port visible on the pigtail. I wish we could get in the box and look for a header for the OTG port to help rooting but.... the darn warranty sticker.
on the FCA/Dodge side of things- I have a Durango with a USB port and SD card reader in the dash (USB Media "Hub" Apparently, FCA uses USB Mini B connectors to interconnect all the ports and the radio. They use latching connectors that are keyed but if you undo them there's a standard USB mini B in there. They do some odd male/female things so you have to pay attention to where you undo cables, but bottom line you can undo the connector on the back of the dash's USB port and stuff a USB mini B female on it and connect it to whatever host device you want.
I first tried an old laptop in case there's anything weird going on. My Dash "Hub" actually has 2 mini-B connectors and a multipin auto harness. Without the harness when you connect it to windows it sees a USB Hub, but the USB port was still dead. So I assumed it needs power from the harness on the back of the dash hub and connected that. UP popped up a USB mass storage device which I believe is the SD card reader- didn't get around to confirming and then the USB port also comes to life. Knowing that it was safe at that point I connected it to the USB A Host port on the box and presto chango now I have the in-dash port connected to the android tv box without any exposed wiring.
Connected the "android auto dongle" through the cars USB port and that works perfectly. I ordered a used 2 USB dash hub from eBay (later model years have 2 and will see what that does. The pictures of that also show the 2 mini B ports- I'll play some more when I get that. I'm not sure what is in those dongles but from the other folks hacking android auto into older models (by using newer radios) apparently, one port works for android auto and the other doesn't. The scuttle is its a body module programming thing but I wonder if maybe there's something physical in there and so the dongle won't be necessary any longer with the new hub? My other thought is if the two USB min B jacks allow you to connect to 2 different hosts- I would try one on the original Uconnect (in case I ever need to update the software) and the other for the android TV box.
So apparently the android tv box handles hubs just fine. As I mentioned earlier it handles a mouse or USB keyboard fine. Also, I played around and connected my hotspot by USB instead of wifi so the device sees it as a modem and that works just fine- so I assume a USB modem works out of the box too. (again odd if that works that carperformance sells a hotspot and not USB modem- like they don't know what the box can do)

I disassembled my display 2 times until it worked. After the first start, I had a black screen. I thought that was it... After 3 times it finally worked. I also had a cable on the plug which has easily resolved. I think you will also have a loose contact somewhere. One time I also had the display calibration gone. Then I connected my old usb keyboard and could then start the display calibration. I reset the system before. So far, the system works without problems. I also have a passive 4-way usb hub to connect.
I have already connected cables for the frontcam but have not yet moved into the engine compartment.
In the video tutorial of Carperformance, you can see when you switch to drive, the display then changes to the frontcam or signal from the cam, but the display does not change to the Frontcam signal with me.
Do you have with you the signal on the display of the camera when switching to drive?

Adw2 = bad mix
Went back and forth many times in email and turns out my calibration issue was probably all ADW2 launcher, guess it conflicts with whatever app they use to communicate with the display.
in the process of troubleshooting I got the update zip for the current version but I don't think those have recovery partition in there and so can't help root? I need to read some more.
I've ripped everything apart like 12 times with the screen, so that my front cam is not connected right now. For the brief time I had it, it was connected to one of the smaller video in pin connectors and don't think it worked in drive by itself, but can't really say for certain. I think certain models can't get the canbus command to see reverse and if I understand they connect in to the video in on the main connector and then use a point on the car that is energized to trigger the switch on that connection. If your adventurous they seem to have to flip a dip also. I think it's the Cherokees or maybe grand Cherokee so maybe Google their thread's? This site gives connector pin outs
http://connectors.dcctools.com/home.htm
There might be a lead for the drive on your shifter if lucky. I think I read the reverse shoulder comes from a body control box in the passenger wheel well?
Also they're super friendly and never wrong when you email but they can be brief. So you could ask if there's a dipswitch to flip to enable auto switching one of the inputs. Hec maybe we should just ask for a table of where the dips do...
(Sorry for any typos... Will try to edit later)

Supposedly it is enough to connect the extra input cable for DVD or CMMB. That answered me Carperformance. Before, I had no external input cable connected. That's why no signal came. The OEM rearcam works flawlessly.

Also, I forgot, they have a workaround for the clock bug
For the clock there is a fix
https://www.youtube.com/watchv=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s

michaelk said:
Also, I forgot, they have a workaround for the clock bug
For the clock there is a fix
https://www.youtube.com/watchv=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately it's not available.

Diabollon said:
Unfortunately it's not available.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
try this-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s

michaelk said:
try this-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a cheaper fix but so no solution. Carperformance should offer a software update with root access. Then we would be satisfied. We should expect it for the money.
My frontcam is working now good.
You already tried Android auto? Which USB dongle do you use? Do you need a special app for this?
My China usb dongle does not want to connect properly with my oneplus 6T.
Edit:
Android auto is working with Pumpkin USB dongle and autoplaybox app. The noname China scrap goes back to shop.
The time fix is working until now also. Thanks for this info. The carperformance, they wrote or informed the affected people who ordered it. I did not get any info.

Diabollon said:
...
My frontcam is working now good.
...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
besides powering your camera and connecting the yellow RCA video signal did you have to do anything else?
something with the red signal wire maybe?
I cant consistently get a signal on my front cam and not sure if the camera is bad or my setup
---------- Post added at 12:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:42 PM ----------
few other notes for others-
FCA "aux audio device detect signal" harness line is actually normally closed (I think shorted to ground)- if you break the connection the oew radio flips right to aux in. make the connection again and it flips back to previous input.
the in dash usb port is infact a powered hub. I originally had a usb + SD card combo and replaced it with 2 usb port and works fine. FCA uses mini b connections to it- just use a usb a to mini b cable to connect it to the android auto box and your indash usb port(s) will work on android auto (And provide more watts to charge your stuff). oddly either dahs hub has a second usb mini b connector that i played around with a little but never could figure out what it does
more can bus fun! - i updated the dongle firmware on the android auto dongle sold direct from carperforance and now it has a beta feature to map buttons. somehow it seems to be sniffing the canbus through the android tv box. it has arrow keys, numbers, enter, etc and you use the app to select the input to assign then you press the same button on the car twice- it sniffs the signal and assignes it. I My durango has the button packs on the steering wheel and i was able to assign up, down, left, right and get it to have the android auto respond. Need to play more but i think it actually goes android wide. For example i think the down button on my steering wheel was sending page down to the chrome browser i had open on the box. Pretty cool stuff if they expand that.