Related
The little plastic bits at each side of the keyboard. I've just noticed them now. They're like the screen protecter film you get on electronic devices. I wonder if they indicate areas of possible wear and tear
Yes ... they are at the rear of the keyboard and on the underside of the screen half as well.
I found with mine that at the back there were a couple of scratches in this plastic indicating that the mechanism was so tight that it did mark. Hard to say what it would be like over time.
Did you check your PM re the screen ?
Also ... can you confirm your tilt is very stiff ... particularly the initial movement ... and that when you push the screen back down, just before it goes flat ... that you get a distinct click like a dislocation ?
Paul.
pgamble said:
Yes ... they are at the rear of the keyboard and on the underside of the screen half as well.
I found with mine that at the back there were a couple of scratches in this plastic indicating that the mechanism was so tight that it did mark. Hard to say what it would be like over time.
Did you check your PM re the screen ?
Also ... can you confirm your tilt is very stiff ... particularly the initial movement ... and that when you push the screen back down, just before it goes flat ... that you get a distinct click like a dislocation ?
Paul.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Paul, I just got mine today and you are right, the tilt is stiff at the initial movement and it also has a click (mechanical) sound just before it goes flat.
as far as scratches are concerned, there are none that i can see.
however, there seems to be a gap between the keys and the screen panel, so there should be no problem in that area pertaining to scratches or friction.
Any sign of that pinched top surface about 1/2" down from the top as the front surface touches the left chrome edge ?
pgamble said:
Any sign of that pinched top surface about 1/2" down from the top as the front surface touches the left chrome edge ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well if the screen is facing towards me then this is happening on the right side surface. Also the protector on the right side (of the keyboard) is a bit worn out so may be that is the reason.
Do you think removing the protector (from either sides of keyboard) will result in scratches?
I too have a stiff one. Yes, the tilt. And when I tilt it back again it has a click. I think the phone feels strong and well-made. I'm already happy with it.
Gutted that I screwed up putting the screen protector on.
<starts searching for new screen protector>
rb14 said:
I too have a stiff one. >
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lol, you'll just have to play with it for a bit...
rb14 said:
I too have a stiff one. And when I tilt it back again it has a click.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOL, that's too funny! Sounds like a viagra commercial
Tomo said:
The little plastic bits at each side of the keyboard. I've just noticed them now. They're like the screen protecter film you get on electronic devices. I wonder if they indicate areas of possible wear and tear
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The left-hand plastic managed to get tangled up in the slide mechanism this morning. Was a bit of a mission to get it out but I'm just gonna get rid of that bit. Will leave the right side on for the time being.
Incidentally, the screen protector in the box is very soft and gets marked really easily!
dazultra2000 said:
The left-hand plastic managed to get tangled up in the slide mechanism this morning. Was a bit of a mission to get it out but I'm just gonna get rid of that bit. Will leave the right side on for the time being.
Incidentally, the screen protector in the box is very soft and gets marked really easily!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you remove one, I would remove the other one too. Otherwise on side of the screen will experience more friction, what can't be good for the ballance.
I knew you lot would get all double entendrey with that post. For the record, I've been playing with it lots all over the weekend and it's not got any softer. Still nice and firm.
Don't. Just don't.
had my TP2 nearly a year but recently i have noticed the screen has like a rectangle shape oil slick type mark on itvery noticable and seems to be getting worse anyone else had this??
its as though there's water under the screen protector but when i remove the SC its still there
search newton ring.
newtons ring??? kind of the case. the "oil slick" is mearly trapped condensation between the digitizer and the top plastic covering that you catually touch(the plastic you put the screen protector on). moisture seeps in through the bottom keys and earpiece in forms of vapor and liquid. this occurs when you have your phone in your pocket or use it in humidity(shower or weather)...congrats, you ve trapped your sweat lol. the reason why its rectangle is because the screen/digitizer and top plastic are not set flush together. as you know, the top plastic is very flexable so you can take your finger and feel the various componets in the empty spaces. i can confirm my finding because a few months back, i replaced my tp2 screen. i seen it had the oil slick before i opened it and before i put humpty back together again, i wiped under the plastic screen and felt a slight moist film. i tried to guess how the hell water got in and i concluded by a salty electronic taste...yeah i smelt and tasted it...that it was sweat. i always carried my phone in my front pocket and over time, the sweat built up. after a wipe with electronic cleaning cloths, an air dry and then an air can blow(i love my phone lol), i put it back together and bam...no oil slick. another way to think of my theory is, you know when you swim with your watch and condensation builds up on the inner quartz and makes it look foggy?...same thing here. only thing different is that there is only one flat surface and not 2 like inside the phone so the moisture wont look like an oil spill, it will just be foggy.
so how do i open the screen up to get rid is it easy enough to do or will bloww warm air over it do it ???
combat goofwing said:
so how do i open the screen up to get rid is it easy enough to do or will bloww warm air over it do it ???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
there are lots of vids on how to disassemble the tp2. check youtube. just to let you know, its a long process. you have to take apart the entire phone just to get to the screen...good luck.
ps i would post the vid link but im typing this off my tp2. if you cant find a good video, i will link one here later.
check my skydrive for the dissasembly doc
http://cid-fe479a288f53bea8.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/.Public
The outer frame of my phone (the metallic plastic border-frame-thing) has a scratches and gauge on it now because I dropped it few weeks ago. I know it's just the appearance but at times I just find myself staring at it with discontent.
Here is the Link to the photo of it. (remove the spaces I'm a new user)
http : / / yfrog . com / n415092010127j
So I ask what would you do if you vibrant has that gauge/scratch?
Do you think it's fixable? maybe just sand it down to smooth it out or would it be make it worse?
Is it possible to get a replacement part?? I cannot find anything online but... I did see the non-working "T-MOBILE DUMMY SAMSUNG VIBRANT T959 DISPLAY PHONE" model on ebay.. do you think I can take the part from there? (haha, I think I do sound somewhat desperate)
oh and is there a case that just covers the perimeter of the phone leaving the back and front exposed? (I have a case for my phone already it but it makes the phone look pretty bulky)
Thank you everybody
I'd like to know this as well as I dropped mine on Friday and scratched all four corners! I thought about sanding it to give it a brushed look, but since it's plastic, I have a feeling it would look like crap.
Can you replace just that part?
Just put it in a case that covers the chrome bezel.
I had a similar issue when I had my blackberry 8900. The "chrome" around the sides started coming off, so I picked at it with my nail until it all came off. It was smooth black plastic underneath, and I'm willing to bet that's the case with the Vibrant.
You could tape off the parts you don't want scratched (screen, buttons, etc.) and use sandpaper on the chrome.
YES U CAN
GO TO
Global direct part.com and find ur phone
sad2903 said:
YES U CAN
GO TO
Global direct part.com and find ur phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
www.globaldirectparts.com
you mean that?
http://www.globaldirectparts.com/Samsung-T959-Front-Housing-p/smsng6085940.htm Right here bro
Just use a good quality liquid Wax polish used on automobiles.
I had a very similar issue as yours. I tried everything and finally came up with a solution. And it was the liquid Wax polish used on cars and bikes to make them shine. Just mask all the sensitive parts of the area of your phone in which you have scratches, then take the polish and rub it on the damaged area with optimum pressure with a clean cotton cloth (make sure a little heat is generated due to friction) . You might have to do it several time so, protect any other unwanted part.
Hope this helps ?
First of all i take no credit for this discovery or process. If anyone wants credit for this information just MSG me with a reference and i will be more than happy to add you. However i looked around and the information was all scattered so i figured i'de add it all in one easy to follow post. Most of the info i found was thru youtube and a couple of my own added ideas.
This is a how to remove , separate , and replace a cracked
S3 screen from the digitizer by melting/softening the adhesive glue (in other words it is how to replace JUST THE GLASS)
Many people out there still say that the S3 's glass can not be separated from the digitizer and that the digitizer and glass but be bought "fused" together from OEM..this is not true. It can indeed be separated using the the process below and it will work just fine and be just as responsive as when you first bought the phone. Video Proof below.
PLEASE SEE THESE VIDEOS For screen removal from digitizer and Use as reference
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eneLvVe7DwE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aZuiCsAtThw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UJXXKOl7Nu8
The screen/glass part u are replacing looks like this
(i know it doesn't look like it is glass but trust me it is glass, it is about as thin as 5 sheets of paper):
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
video thanks to: marcustaz
This is how i replaced my screen and tools needed:
***Lots of Patience and carefulness *** (about 30 mins if u done before...about 60-90 mins if its your 1st time)
*** wear PROTECTIVE GOGGLES - EYE GLASSES (yes there is a HIGH POSSIBILITY that small glass shards may fly and glass in the eye is not fun)***
1) replacement screen - with no digitizer (exact pictures of what u need to buy are the pictures above..just match your color) ($25 USD aprox on Amazon - Cheaper on Ebay $18 USD) (The same screen fits all models just match the color...Samsung Galaxy S3 III T-mobile SGH-T999 / AT&T SGH-i747 / Verizon SCH-i535 / Sprint SPH-L710 / US Cellular SCH-R530 / GT-i9300)
2) exacto knife ($5 USD aprox)
3) heat gun ($20(harborfreight) for a cheapy....or $40 (homedepot) for a good one with adjustable heat)
***** HEAT IS CRITICAL, most people faill because they did not heat up the glass enough ( MUST BE around 180F)****
4) empty cereal box or cardboard calendar (or something similar that is comparable in sturdiness yet is "not too solid")
5) 90% rubbing alcohol ( $3.. make "damp" on a microfiber cloth or cotton ball (cotton-ball kinda makes a mess) removes any excess glue stuck to the digitizer)
6) microfiber cloth (available from .99 cent stores or dollar stores)
7) tweezers (.99 cent store ...or your moms/girlfriends/wife's beauty box..LoL)
OPTIONAL TOOLS BUT HELPS ALOT
*** an extra hand or two (1 or 2 more people helping is a big help)
*** laser thermometer (to make sure u do not overheat the phone, try to stay under 200F degrees with an average of about 180F degrees, slightly going over 200 does not hurt but i do not recommend)
*** thick leather gloves/welding gloves (prevents your hands from getting burned while someone else is heating the phone and maintaining the temp u can be easily removing the screen...at 180 degrees the glue and glass separate from the digitizer like BUTTER and the gloves protect you from getting burned by the heatgun!!!)
***Magnifying glass (to be able to make sure the glass fragments are completely removed from the digitizer so the new screen will sit flush)
*** thin latex/rubber gloves (when putting on the screen so there are no finger prints)
*** duck tape (hold glass together so it doesn't "fall apart" while removing)
Instructions on how i did it below:
Remove the battery , sim card, micro sdcard. Apply ductape or some kinda of good heat resistant tape to the top of the glass screen so the broken glass stays intact when removing. Put on your safety glasses/eye protection (believe me i highly recommend this regardless of how dorky you may look, if glass from the phone goes in your eye ...well you have been warned). Grab the exacto bladed and lightly apply pressure with it between the glass and the outer grey plastic trim and then outline the entire outer edge of the glass. Put on some heat resistant gloves (gloves that u wont feel the burn) Heat up your heatgun and heat the phones screen to around 180 Degrees Fahrenheit ...you can know the temp by using a laser thermometer (try not to go over 200 degrees). NOTE: U must remove the glass when its at around this temp, failure to do so will make it hard to remove the glass from the digitizer. Try to heat the entire phone evenly by using a "circular" or "side to side" type of motion when applying the heat. Find the outer edge of the glass and find a place in the corner to begin the removal. I recommend beginning on the top left side of the phone (where the S in SAMSUNG side of the corner) is at. Once the phone is heated to approx 180 degrees you can begin to lift the glass. (i do not recommend lifting in the middle of the screen or any "black part" of the screen as you can risk damaging the digitizer, the outer edge (where it is white/blue) is the safest spot to begin separation.) If you don't have access to a laser thermometer then you can risk it and just take your time till you notice the glass begins to "lift/separate" . Once you have a decent amount of the glass lifted (just enough to put the cardboard in) you can shove a piece of the cereal box inside and begin to use the cereal box to lift the rest of the glass. Continue this processes till the glass is all lifted and removed. When you start approaching the bottom of the phone where the button is at BE CAREFUL...try to go around the bottom and you will also notice 2 " touch ribbon light sensors"(look at the attachment pictures BELOW i labeled the light/ribbon sensor). They can removed from the glass using the heat gun and the exacto knife...it should lift right up and separate from the glass. Once u separate the ribbon your should be all done removing or close to done removing the glass from the digitizer. If by this point you haven't already removed the glass continue to remove till all the major pieces of glass is removed. Once the major pieces of glass are removed you can now put on some latex gloves and Remove the excess glass on the corners using the exacto knife and the tweezers. Carefully remove the small pieces of glass on the digitizer using a 90% alcohol LIGHTLY DAMPENED microfiber cloth. DO NOT APPLY HEAVY PRESSURE TO THE DIGITIZER when tiny glass is still on there (instead just kind of gently sweep it...using a new paint brush might even help) when removing the small glass fragment, NOTE that if you do apply too much pressure to the digitizer u risk the glass shards scratching or denting the digitizer!!! Once the glass is all removed and shards are gone you can now clean any fingerprints lint dust or oils using a dry microfiber cloth by gently applying LIGHT/SOFT pressure. Leave the glue on the outside edges of the phone and the bottom and top of the phone...just make sure the digitizer is spotless. Once everything is clean and the digitizer is spotless you can now install the screen. start from the bottom of the phone and proceed to put on the screen, make sure the "push" button is lined up and the line up the "light-sensor-ribbons buttons". the sensor ribbon buttons should just stick to the glass and line up with the screen part. Once the button is lined up you can now line up the rest of the screen and gently push down. The screen should be stuck into place by the existing glue on the outer edges. While holding the screen in place carefully put the battery in and turn on the device and make sure the buttons and screen and everything works properly and make sure the "lights" on the menu buttons work. Once you verify everything works and looks beautiful you can take the battery out one last time. Using the heatgun reheat the screen to melt the adhesive glue to the screen. Once the screen is heated back up to 180 degrees gently push on the glass and press for about 10 seconds and make sure to press in the outter edges of the glass where u left the glue. Let the phone cool off and you are good to go. Have fun using your S3!! This sounds fairly long and hard, but its not as hard as it sounds..its actually fairly easy and should take the average person about 50-70 mins first time. Experienced person about 20-40 mins.
i figure with the videos above you should be able to figure it out. Ill probably be adding more detailed info if this thread becomes popular. Good luck guys/gals
FAQS
Q1) How do i know if its just my glass screen and not the phone itself that's not working?
You will know if your phone screen lens cracked, but LCD display works. In other words you will know that its just the glass that's broken if your phone currently works perfectly fine and the touch screen works fine BUT the only thing wrong with the phone is the screen being physically cracked/scratched. If this is your case then the instructions above will work on replacing the glass.
keywords: s3 sIII slll fix fixed shattered break broke crack cracked cracks fuse fused unfuse remove removal repair guide video videos tutorial how-to how to fix it diy dropped drop break broken broke gorilla glass white marble t999 i747 i535 l710 r530 i9300 instruction
Thanks. You think one of these might make it easier to pull out the glass:
http://www.amazon.com/Aftermarket-Product-Professional-Vacuum-Suction/dp/B004ZX48ZQ/ref=pd_ybh_3
rtwhtever said:
Thanks. You think one of these might make it easier to pull out the glass:
http://www.amazon.com/Aftermarket-Product-Professional-Vacuum-Suction/dp/B004ZX48ZQ/ref=pd_ybh_3
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It might but I wouldn't try it... You would have to get the adhesive glue really soft and it may work, but the scary part is that if the adhesive isn't soft you risk damaging the digitizer using that tool. For me a cereal box worked great when separating it.
hey guys on my phone, where the glass is slowly coming off at the bottom right, you can see the bare screen, with glue residue. When heating it up, does the glass just come off. Also when you attach the new glass, can you not see the glue residue inbetween the screen and the glass? Here is an attached photo of my phones current state. It looks pretty bad, but the screen is fully functional. Any help is appreciated!
Sorry guys, I cannot post any links until i get 10 posts, i will post a pic as soon as i can
EDIT Here is the picture:
http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/3...1028142615.jpg
Thanks for the info
Sent from my SGH-T999 using xda premium
cr1mson said:
hey guys on my phone, where the glass is slowly coming off at the bottom right, you can see the bare screen, with glue residue. When heating it up, does the glass just come off. Also when you attach the new glass, can you not see the glue residue inbetween the screen and the glass? Here is an attached photo of my phones current state. It looks pretty bad, but the screen is fully functional. Any help is appreciated!
Sorry guys, I cannot post any links until i get 10 posts, i will post a pic as soon as i can
EDIT Here is the picture:
http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/3...1028142615.jpg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
first of all the link to your picture doesn't work.
Now on to what u were asking....when heating it up the glass doesn't just "come off" or "peel off" or "fall off" .... you have to separate the glass from what you call "bare screen" (i assume u are talking about the digitizer) with a flat sturdy piece of cardboard (like a piece of a cereal box) or something similar. if heated around 180 degreee the glass should come off (separate from digitizer) very easily literally feels like cutting butter with cardboard.
you should not see any "glue residue" inbetween the glass and the screen..u are supposed to remove the glue "residue"/adhesive from the BLACK part of the screen using rubbing alcohol DAMP microfiber cloth. just remove it from the black screen area and leave the glue on the outer edges (where the white part of the glass is) so the new glass has something to stick to.
if u fix your pic or have any other questions maybe i can help u out more.
My digitizer doesn't work
After replacing the glass the touch screen doesn't work. Any ideas?
richardgiroux said:
After replacing the glass the touch screen doesn't work. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
u must have had a broken digitizer too or you have "adhesive glue" stuck in between the glass and the digitizer preventing the screen from sensing your touch. btw: if you have a broken digitizer you might as well just get a whole new phone as a digitizer is very expensive (around $200 USD) for the S3.
XeoNoX said:
u must have had a broken digitizer too or you have "adhesive glue" stuck in between the glass and the digitizer preventing the screen from sensing your touch. btw: if you have a broken digitizer you might as well just get a whole new phone as a digitizer is very expensive (around $200 USD) for the S3.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hi there !!!
what you mean " broken digitizer " what is that..
i make it all like the video but my screen dont work ... what is that and where is that digi ??
thanx for your time
i buy this from e-bay
****.ebay.de/itm/SAMSUNG-GALAXY-S3-i9300-FRONT-GLAS-GLASS-DISPLAYGLAS-SCREEN-LENS-WERKZEUNG-Weis-/200851508159?pt=DE_Handy_PDA_Oberschalen_Designfolien&hash=item2ec3aecbbf
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
antaras said:
hi there !!!
what you mean " broken digitizer " what is that..
i make it all like the video but my screen dont work ... what is that and where is that digi ??
thanx for your time
i buy this from e-bay
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
its hard to explain, but the digitizer is the next part directly behind the glass screen, normally if u buy the digitizer the glass screen comes with it. (however if u buy the glass screen it generally just comes with the glass screen and no digitizer) <--- i hope this makes sense
i should have taken a picture of mine when i had it apart. the closest picture i could find was this one below that has BOTH the SCREEN & the DIGITIZER, most people just need the glass screen. However if your screen doesnt sense your touches then u need the digitizer too.
http://i.imgur.com/wtq3v.jpg
the bare digitizer by iteself looks almost like a LCD touch screen but i couldnt find a picture of one online.
i understand now what is .. i see the foto and one video ..
so i put the battery i turn on my mobile and if i touch the screen ( lsd ) without the front glass must be ok normaly but my doesnt make nothing i put the glass in front of the screen without a glue exactly like the video but my touch dont work again ..
antaras said:
i understand now what is .. i see the foto and one video ..
so i put the battery i turn on my mobile and if i touch the screen ( lsd ) without the front glass must be ok normaly but my doesnt make nothing i put the glass in front of the screen without a glue exactly like the video but my touch dont work again ..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sorry but your english translation is not making sense to me...pretty much if the touchscreen still works then all u need is the glass, if your touchscreen doesn't work then u need the digitizer and the glass
XeoNoX said:
sorry but your english translation is not making sense to me...pretty much if the touchscreen still works then all u need is the glass, if your touchscreen doesn't work then u need the digitizer and the glass
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
my question is: is there affect without having that special clear glue in the middle of screen when put back together?
jay_droid said:
my question is: is there affect without having that special clear glue in the middle of screen when put back together?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the touchscreen will work just fine without the "glue" (special adhesive), i actually removed it and cleaned it all up and just left some of it on the outter edge, u just have to make sure there is a little bit of that "glue /' residue" around the OUTER EDGE of the glass (the outer edge behind the white/blue/red part of the glass) to make sure the glass STICKS to the phone.
XeoNoX said:
the touchscreen will work just fine without the "glue" (special adhesive), i actually removed it and cleaned it all up and just left some of it on the outter edge, u just have to make sure there is a little bit of that "glue /' residue" around the OUTER EDGE of the glass (the outer edge behind the white/blue/red part of the glass) to make sure the glass STICKS to the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And lastly, you have now exactly the same feeling and look as original? i.e screen is flush to bezel, no cracking noises, no evident spacing in between glass and digitizer?
how long has it been since install now?
(sorry for the bombardment of questions)
This is useful to my interest....hmmmm yes yes yes it is....
I'm gonna swap parts of my gay-blue T999 to the much cooler black parts!
Heres my glass I replaced today. it wasnt easy and it wasn't too difficult. I been fixing phones for a while so take your time if you Want To replace your glass. and make sure you heat up the glass real good. It helps a lot. And make sure you clean up the residue left from the glue real good. if you don't your phones screen won't work correctly.
Sent from my SGH-T999 using xda premium
jrocks213 said:
Heres my glass I replaced today. it wasnt easy and it wasn't too difficult. I been fixing phones for a while so take your time if you Want To replace your glass. and make sure you heat up the glass real good. It helps a lot. And make sure you clean up the residue left from the glue real good. if you don't your phones screen won't work correctly.
Sent from my SGH-T999 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How do you set the new screen? Do I need to buy double sided LCD tape?
I see you got it out in one piece. Did you tape it down before heating?
uoY_redruM said:
How do you set the new screen? Do I need to buy double sided LCD tape?
I see you got it out in one piece. Did you tape it down before heating?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used reg clear tape on the screen to make sure it stayed in one piece. And I also had double sided tape they sell for the screens itself. I cut diff shapes and to make sure the screen stayed on. Where you see the clamps is where I put the tape to make sure it stays on.
Sent from my SGH-T999 using xda premium
jrocks213 said:
I used reg clear tape on the screen to make sure it stayed in one piece. And I also had double sided tape they sell for the screens itself. I cut diff shapes and to make sure the screen stayed on. Where you see the clamps is where I put the tape to make sure it stays on.
Sent from my SGH-T999 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So you need tape then right? There's no way to stick it with existing? I just want to make sure I'm prepared lol.
The GPEL screen protector is fantastic! No dot matrix, full adhesive, comes with 2, affordable, case friendly & no Halo affect.
The black border is just a tad too big, so you lose a row of pixels..
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D1CG8QY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MQYCBbYM79AP7
Thanks for sharing the review!
Hello,
Does the black line cut from the sides of the screen ? Or the bottom ?
Thank you !
Al3xxxinho said:
Hello,
Does the black line cut from the sides of the screen ? Or the bottom ?
Thank you !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I currently have this protector, as stated in the OP it cuts off a little on all sides and is it a bit crooked. I have plans to review another screen protector (might be the one) in a new thread soon
So, anyone that sells this internationally for less than 15usd for shipping?
8bitbang said:
I currently have this protector, as stated in the OP it cuts off a little on all sides and is it a bit crooked. I have plans to review another screen protector (might be the one) in a new thread soon
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Care to share which one? I just picked up a g7 yesterday, have a SUPCASE UB Pro on order, want to pull the included plastic shield, put on glass.
The gpel sounds good, but I'm interested in seeing what else looks solid. (Not interested in going to the $50 dome glass.)
Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk
markfm said:
Care to share which one? I just picked up a g7 yesterday, have a SUPCASE UB Pro on order, want to pull the included plastic shield, put on glass.
The gpel sounds good, but I'm interested in seeing what else looks solid. (Not interested in going to the $50 dome glass.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have 2 g7s one with gpel and dome glass. Do you want a side by side comparsion picture. Either is perfect and has flaws
8bitbang said:
I have 2 g7s one with gpel and dome glass. Do you want a side by side comparsion picture. Either is perfect and has flaws
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure, thanks!
Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk
Dome is on the left and GPEL is on the right
Dome - doesn't affect the sensors but it's smaller than the actual display. It's a bit too short on the left and right sides. This causes light bleed on the edge of the screen protector. Dust magnet but less likely to have bubbles
GPEL - affects sensors and black borders cut off display and is especially noticeable when watching YouTube videos in full screen pinch. Bubbles can happen
8bitbang said:
Dome is on the left and GPEL is on the right
Dome - doesn't affect the sensors but it's smaller than the actual display. It's a bit too short on the left and right sides. This causes light bleed on the edge of the screen protector. Dust magnet but less likely to have bubbles
GPEL - affects sensors and black borders cut off display and is especially noticeable when watching YouTube videos in full screen pinch. Bubbles can happen
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What are the sensor impacts from using the gpel?
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markfm said:
What are the sensor impacts from using the gpel?
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It can cause the display to dim and sometimes turn off like when you raise your phone to answer a call. To be fair all full cover screen protectors are suffering for this flaw. Even OtterBox is getting massive hate for their version and is temporary unavailable.
Just to let you guys know,
You will NOT have the "notch" border pixel line problem if you perfectly align the holes at the top with the sensors, but with a catch: you have to align it with the sensor being more towards the bottom than dead center. My very first screen protector had it more towards the top (basically, the entire protector aligned downwards 1mm, which made the notch very prominent). Then I wasted two more trying to make it bottom aligned. (edit). That fixes the sensor problem and the pixel problem at the top with the notch, unless you are looking down at the phone from above the phone (and who the hell does that?). Unfortunately, perfect alignment is expensive and will cost you several screen protectors since you have to deal with lifting and replanting as well as small nudging WHILE you are in a steamy bathroom hoping for no dust hairs to drop on something. Took me three of them to get it perfect. But I got perfect and I'm pleased.
The left and right sides black bars aren't a problem; the missing pixel line can always be seen by looking to the side of the phone. Just remember to focus on aligning the TOP first (edit) align the ridged sensor so it's almost touching the bottom cutout) and then pressing the top down, then the middle. That's the hard part. This will also cause a few air bubbles on the sides, which means you will have to carefully lift the edges and press outwards to reapply again, and make very sure your fingernails are spotless. That is going to be the risk of dust getting in there, so be careful. Get it perfect then everything will make you happy.
The results are worth it.
Falkentyne said:
Just to let you guys know,
You will NOT have the "notch" border pixel line problem if you perfectly align the holes at the top with the sensors. That fixes the sensor problem and the pixel problem at the top with the notch, unless you are looking down at the phone from above the phone (and who the hell does that?). Unfortunately, perfect alignment is expensive and will cost you several screen protectors since you have to deal with lifting and replanting as well as small nudging WHILE you are in a steamy bathroom hoping for no dust hairs to drop on something. Took me three of them to get it perfect. But I got perfect and I'm pleased.
The left and right sides black bars aren't a problem; the missing pixel line can always be seen by looking to the side of the phone. Just remember to focus on aligning the TOP first and then pressing the top down, then the middle. That's the hard part. This will also cause a few air bubbles on the sides, which means you will have to carefully lift the edges and press outwards to reapply again, and make very sure your fingernails are spotless. That is going to be the risk of dust getting in there, so be careful. Get it perfect then everything will make you happy.
The results are worth it.
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Where's your proof? Both the OP and me have reported information (with evidence mind you) that contradicts your statements.
8bitbang said:
Where's your proof? Both the OP and me have reported information (with evidence mind you) that contradicts your statements.
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My proof is me owning the phone and going through 4 GPEL screen protectors before I got it perfect. I paid my dues. And as someone disabled and on SSI and with a fixed income, I don't have money to go through infinite screen protectors, unlike some of you people here.
The trick is to align the "ridged" sensor so that it's (edit: just looked at my phone: the hole aligned at the -bottom- of the ridged sensor, rather than dead center! but not blocked by the edge of the screen protector), sensor bottom aligned and then after that, making sure all the sides are perfectly straight when applying (a LOT harder than you think, even in a steamy shower, because I'm in an old apartment). Took me 4 protectors and cost me over $30 dollars. (air bubbles and dust from me constantly having to re-lift to get the orientation perfect and eventually dust getting under the edges, and I have OCD so I want nothing less than perfection). Might even give GPEL an email and see if they'll send me an extra sample for my troubles. And no, I have no way to take a picture of the phone screen for you.
I forgot that I had it 'bottom' side sensor aligned rather than mid sensor aligned because I spent over 30 minutes in the shower sweating and uncomfortable wasting screen protectors trying to get rid of the notch line and getting it on with air bubbles. I was extremely stressed out, and it's difficult for someone with a metal bar in their spine to have to work that hard. Needless to say the fourth protector (thank god) I got absolutely perfect.
If it's dead center yes you will have a pixel row of the notch visible. So you have to 'raise' the protector upwards by that same pixel space. There's enough cutout to work with to make that work.
This is no problem because the very *BOTTOM* of the phone isn't used by the display (since this is an IPS display; someone mentioned this in a review, compared to OLED), unlike the top, so you have like 1mm of extra room to work with for the cutout (as long as the top sensor isn't blocked by the bottom edge of the protector). The black border at the bottom won't interfere with anything (checked with a screen test in the service menu).
I'll -try- to upload a picture of the phone with my laptop's built in camera if I can later on, but please don't be upset if you don't like the quality. My laptop isn't high definition and isn't made for such precise pictures. 720p isn't going to work very well.
@Falkentyne - thanks for the explanation.
It sounds like the critical part is where the protector is relative to the front mounted speaker (towards the right edge of the notch) front mounted camera (center of the notch), mystery circle to the left of the camera, and tiny notification led circle furthest to the left side of the notch?
If a photo of your own screen is hard to get, I've attached a photo, the top part of the g7 screen. Maybe draw a line showing where the gpel edge needs to be (outside edge of the line = outside edge of the gpel).
This is the best I could do.
markfm said:
@Falkentyne - thanks for the explanation.
It sounds like the critical part is where the protector is relative to the front mounted speaker (towards the right edge of the notch) front mounted camera (center of the notch), mystery circle to the left of the camera, and tiny notification led circle furthest to the left side of the notch?
If a photo of your own screen is hard to get, I've attached a photo, the top part of the g7 screen. Maybe draw a line showing where the gpel edge needs to be (outside edge of the line = outside edge of the gpel).
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In your picture, move the screen protector UP about 1mm upwards so the bottom is where the red line is.
This will leave about 1mm of 'extra' space above the sensor area (whatever that thing is, sensor, microphone, I don't know). But it will still fit fully into the enclosure.
Took me 4 screen protectors to do this AND have no spare dust hairs from all the relifting !
Perfect thanks!
Just over the bottom edge of the front speaker (the oval on the right with the grid pattern).
I just got my gpel protectors in today, will give it a try tomorrow.
I installed it following your suggestion, it seems to be working fine. Thanks for the info!
markfm said:
I installed it following your suggestion, it seems to be working fine. Thanks for the info!
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Glad you got it working and got the results you wanted.
It's good that the cutout is slightly larger than the speaker(and sensor/camera) itself, but bad that people won't know about this without experimentation (or somehow coming across the posts here).