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Hello!
Has anyone seen a disassembly guide / dismantlling guide for an xperia play? I have had a quick look and havent seen one. A video one would be really good and one that looks at the digitizer / glass would be best for me as I seem to have broken mine already, oops!
Cheers
That sucks.
If you have Rogers they have a replacement policy. I would try that before you take it apart. Good luck. I haven't seen any guides yet. It is a pretty new phone.
You have a teardown here, it may be useful: http://www.ubmtechinsights.com/teardowns/sony-xperia-play-teardown/
I have found this, but would still like to see a video if one exists?
http://www.repairyourmobile.net/sony-ericsson-disassembly/sony-ericsson-xperia-play-disassembly/
Cheers
You can get a brand new OEM Sony Ericsson Touch Digitizer Screen on eBay from here: http://cgi.ebay.ca/OEM-Touch-Digiti...ultDomain_0&hash=item27bb11025c#ht_4868wt_905
I just ordered an OEM Xperia PLAY Black Housing Set from them and it's on its way. Funny how those "takedown" photos don't show you how they disconnected the sliding screen from the gamepad base. I got stuck at that part and have no idea how they were able to remove it. LOL
Rogers replacement policy doesn't give you the same model.... They have designated refurbished models available at no cost per person per life... You can only use it once... Unless the customer support was lying to me, that is what she told me.
Sent from my R800i using XDA App
Have you dealt with rogers before? The have no issue flatout lying to your face. I cant tell you how many times I got screwed over by those ****ers. So I get the feeling you'd be SOL
Sent from my R800i using XDA App
The only reason I switched over to Rogers was to get the Xperia PLAY for $99.99 on a 3 year agreement. I've been with Fido eversince and even though they're owned by Rogers now, I can say that Fido deals with their customers way better than Rogers does. When my 3 year agreement is done I'm going back with Fido. I already network unlocked my Xperia PLAY so if I still have it by then all I have to do is get a Fido SIM card.
Xperia Play disassembly pictures
Hey,
I am in the middle of taking apart my Xperia Play to replace the screen. Now, I got everything separated and taken apart except the screen half. I am having problem removing these silver rivets, which look like screws with a covering but the covering doesn't peel/come off. I have attached pictures of these in hopes that someone knows how to remove them.
Additionally, if anyone has experience replacing an Xperia Play screen, I'd love the advice.
Thanks in advance.
McD
Screen
Hi
Dont take the rivets OFF! If you just slide the control pad part off the metal casing you can get to the 2 screws you need to get to.
I have just finished replacing my screen and it is the scariest screen i have ever replaced as you need to go from back to front lol
I have attached a pic of my finished product, sorry i should of taken photos during it but i was shaking lol
Flava0ne said:
The only reason I switched over to Rogers was to get the Xperia PLAY for $99.99 on a 3 year agreement. I've been with Fido eversince and even though they're owned by Rogers now, I can say that Fido deals with their customers way better than Rogers does. When my 3 year agreement is done I'm going back with Fido. I already network unlocked my Xperia PLAY so if I still have it by then all I have to do is get a Fido SIM card.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I desperately hope that you did not get locked down to a 3 year agreement to just get this phone. As fun as this phone is (and likely to be used long past when I get another phone, just for Emulators and random games), it is not worth a 3 year contract. 2, I can understand. 1 would be more proper. 3 years is nuts in this industry. They have made back their offset of cost within 1.5 years usually.
Video!!
Hi
For anyone else who might benifit from this, here you go:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3n5ZfkqhzE
Edd
eddieo said:
Hi
For anyone else who might benifit from this, here you go:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3n5ZfkqhzE
Edd
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for that video link, I think it'll really help other people who might need to do some repairs on their own to their Xperia PLAY. I just wish that I came across that video earlier when I had to disassemble mines, I was so nervous when I was doing it cause all I had to go by where those pictures posted earlier and it left out a whole lot that I had to figure out myself.
Replacing Digitizer
Hello, Flava0ne
Do I have to take entire phone apart to replace digitizer? Is there simpler way to do it? Screen is fine - only digitizer is broken. Can it be removed from the top or bottom top access only?
Thank you
WOW sorry, too many tabs open. Wrong topic!!!
(Disregard this post)
Two questions: How far can you go without breaking a warranty seal and how many internal water damage indicators / liquid sensors are there? I just need to check since they are threatening $300 if they find anything and I work in the cold and frequently see condensation. I do avoid condensation actively and don't even allow it in the bathroom when showering.
---------- Post added at 03:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:03 PM ----------
OK, I went as far as I dared by completely taking apart the bottom piece (gamepad, camera, microSD slot, SIM slot, headset/remote jack, primary and secondary microphone, antennas, speakers, microUSB, etc) and, so far, I have found three. It was pretty easy up to this point and I didn't notice any kind of warranty seal.
I just removed all T6 screws from the back and lifted the catches along the bottom (headset/microUSB) side using my fingernail. One corner should be loose and you can start there and slide with no marring (didn't need my plastic pry tool). I don't know why, exactly, but the internal L & R switches are stuck to black adhesive films covering openings in this black piece but I was able to lift and unstick them without touching the films. Anyway, when you remove and flip this piece over, you should see a white square just below the mSD and SIM card slot. It's actually visible through a pinhole on the other side. If it's pink/red, you've got a problem, even if it's caused by condensation (they will still void your warranty for "water damage"). When I touched it, a plastic film on the back slipped off but stuck back on. The whole thing seems like it peels off quite easily.
Anyway, I would wiggle the power button loose before moving on. Next, there are now two tiny cross-head screws that I used a PH00x50 driver on. Yes, one of them was clearly accessible as soon as you removed the battery, but why remove it until you are ready to remove both? Once those are out, let the headphone jack dangle off its ribbon cable and lift the PCB enough to disconnect the display connector from the PCB... just stick something wide and flat in there and twist. Be careful not to damage the tiny ribbon cable that connects the touchpad area from the gamepad because it still needs to be disconnected. Now, this is OPPOSITE of how many larger but similar connectors work, so pay attention: To disconnect it, locate the tiny darker-colored flap of plastic on the opposite side of the connector from where the cable goes in. Lift it from the opposite side toward the side where the cable inserts. It will stand straight up and then you can slide the cable out. If you have to remove it, the headphone/remote jack appears to work the same way.
Anyway, this should completely free the PCB and leave the gamepad shell attached to the display. The gamepad shell should be free from the front half of the phone now as well, leaving only the sliding metal mounting bracket.
Now, a couple of interesting things here: I can clearly tell that one of the T6 screws by the volume button was protruding too far and caused a visible sliding scratch on the underside of my top shell. It may make sense to loosen these a bit on a new phone before this happens. You can also see if imperfections in the white Teflon sliding bumps are causing scratches on the front (my first phone did not, my second did in no time).
Now, let's go back to the gamepad faceplate. The buttons should easily fall out if you want them too, but I was only interested in finding the water sensors and here are two more: one is right by the microphone hole and the other in diagonally opposite under the Playstation Certified logo. They look identical to the one on the back piece.
I'm sure that there is at least one in the LCD assembly as well, but mine is well sealed and I didn't want to lift any of those silvery-gray stickers covering the screws when I have a warranty replacement on the way. I've gone far enough to satisfy my curiosity.
---------- Post added at 03:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:01 PM ----------
A couple notes on re-assembly:
As expected, it's a bit more difficult, especially because you don't have leverage to reconnect the display when it is in place. The last fold of the cable it supposed to fit UNDER the metal bracket and the slide mechanism doesn't really work if it isn't (a certain panel will not slide back if it is not folded under). I'm not sure how it affects it but it does. You will need a thin, long, flat utensil like a plastic butter knife or something to either A) provide leverage to connect the connector or B) tuck the cable back under the bracket after connecting it. You need to have already connected the touchpads and oriented the gamepad faceplate around/under the bracket, though it will not be secured. The phone also needs to be in the open position. When you tuck the cable under, slide it to the closed position and back. If the cable seated properly, the PCB and gamepad faceplate should sit pretty flat and should no longer be falling off of the bracket even though it isn't really secured.
The D-pad needs to be arranged properly as well. One side is cut. If you look closely, there are three holes in the four inner corners that align with three plus-shaped pegs, so you can't get it wrong if you pay attention.
The power/lock button isn't going to stay in place until you secure the bottom housing, so leave it off until just before you are ready to do that to avoid losing it.
Be careful not to seal dust in the camera lens. Don't forget to put the cross-head screws back before you do the back housing because you can't easily access one. Remember to keep the four black screws by the L, R, and volume buttons a little loose if you had a problem with them scratching the other half of the phone.
Be sure to download the Xperia Play test program from the Google Market and verify that all buttons and touch inputs function properly.
I'll be sure to wear my Looxcie next time.
I feel sorry for you blokes taking apart the xperia
it's going to be a royal pain in the ass. especially when you reach that "point"
the point where you have **** all over the table and you are like god how did i get this deep into disassembly
then the part when you are shaking / nervous about breaking a part, or worse yet. you end up breaking it. i would be real scared lol.
all i can say is go real slow. REAL slow
and if anything wont move. dont force it lol
Hogwarts said:
I feel sorry for you blokes taking apart the xperia
it's going to be a royal pain in the ass. especially when you reach that "point"
the point where you have **** all over the table and you are like god how did i get this deep into disassembly
then the part when you are shaking / nervous about breaking a part, or worse yet. you end up breaking it. i would be real scared lol.
all i can say is go real slow. REAL slow
and if anything wont move. dont force it lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe I've just taken apart too many laptops and gadgets before but I never felt that way when I got the back piece completely apart... or maybe "that point" is only after you get into the front assembly. I did the rear in bed with the screws laying on the covers beside me and didn't even lose the arrangement of a single one.
Anyway, moments after getting my RMA replacement shipped email notification this morning, I dropped my R800at that is supposed to be getting sent back and now the touch digitizer is shattered. I've ordered a replacement but I'm hoping that I'll be sending it back with the original from the RMA replacement. Does anyone know if the R800a or R800at will fit a R800 Z1i chassis? These are all over eBay. Also, is there any tamper seal? I understand that there are screws under the silver/gray stickers on the front piece but those look easy enough to reapply.
Did I mention that they wanted to turn my RMA down for the flaking paint on the front buttons alone? The night before I called to RMA for an alarm issue (two days ago), the battery door cracked right at the pry point. I remove it more often than most because I carry a second official battery and a Sony Ericsson EP900 charger, so it failed under normal wear-and-tear, but they wanted to say that I couldn't RMA for my main issue (alarm dismisses itself) because of that EVEN THOUGH THE RMA UNITS DON'T INCLUDE A BATTERY COVER!
Damn. Sony Ericsson can be picky. I babied the thing and only just now dropped it. Perhaps AT&T is a little too cautious with the terms of Sony's warranty (it is processed through them but the rules come from Sony).
CZroe said:
Maybe I've just taken apart too many laptops and gadgets before but I never felt that way when I got the back piece completely apart... or maybe "that point" is only after you get into the front assembly. I did the rear in bed with the screws laying on the covers beside me and didn't even lose the arrangement of a single one.
Anyway, moments after getting my RMA replacement shipped email notification this morning, I dropped my R800at that is supposed to be getting sent back and now the touch digitizer is shattered. I've ordered a replacement but I'm hoping that I'll be sending it back with the original from the RMA replacement. Does anyone know if the R800a or R800at will fit a R800 Z1i chassis? These are all over eBay. Also, is there any tamper seal? I understand that there are screws under the silver/gray stickers on the front piece but those look easy enough to reapply.
Did I mention that they wanted to turn my RMA down for the flaking paint on the front buttons alone? The night before I called to RMA for an alarm issue (two days ago), the battery door cracked right at the pry point. I remove it more often than most because I carry a second official battery and a Sony Ericsson EP900 charger, so it failed under normal wear-and-tear, but they wanted to say that I couldn't RMA for my main issue (alarm dismisses itself) because of that EVEN THOUGH THE RMA UNITS DON'T INCLUDE A BATTERY COVER!
Damn. Sony Ericsson can be picky. I babied the thing and only just now dropped it. Perhaps AT&T is a little too cautious with the terms of Sony's warranty (it is processed through them but the rules come from Sony).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've always said this phone is cheaply made and now i have more proof
mine came brand new out of the box with a blemish on the screen
I'm not picky so i just kept it.
Its a blemish in the LCD screen not the digitizer or glass
and yeah the cheap ass plastic assembly is not helping either.
they should have used aluminum or something. more durable
OK, so I finished the job. I did not see any more water indicators in the top shell and I did not find a single tamper-resistant label in the entire device. I left the slider assembly intact (I think it's riveted) and I didn't peel the flex PCB out of the top shell or off of the touchoads, but it was what anyone would consider "fully disassembled." I seem to have misplaced my camera but video will be coming when I find and edit it.
Hi, has anyone replaced their digitizer on their desire z/g2? How did it go? It looks easy on the youtube vid.. have any problems? What way did you use to melt the glue? What digitizer did you use, where from?
Any info much appriciated as will be replaceing mine v soon due to 'invisible finger problem' that's driving me nuts..
Thanks..
Sent from my HTC Vision using XDA App
Never done it on a g2 but should be pretty straight forward especially with a video lol. Use a heat gun to melt the glue, pretty much the only tool you SHOULD use to do something like that.
I replaced the digitizer on my third G2 after getting a refurb replacement from T-Mobile that had a black spot inside the actual digitizer glass, not on the outside or inside.
The process is very easy with the video, however, trying to keep dust and fingerprints from getting on the inside of the phone while you're trying to get it back together is a serious pain in the rear! If it's the same video that I watched, just use a hair drier blowing hot air to heat the adhesive on the inside of the digitizer and then pop the digitizer off very very slowly, because you don't want to accidentally bend the metal bezel around the screen.
You also may want to leave the original leftover adhesive on the inside, because when I cleaned mine off, light now always leaks out around the bottom edge of the digitizer, below the menu, home, and search buttons, even though I used the double sided adhesive strips covering the entire length of the bottom, so light shouldn't technically be leaking out. No biggie, though... it works like brand new, now!
Thanks for the reply.. I have seen that video and that's what I was using as a guide.. I ordered the digi today, should be here tomorrow.. the only thing I was wondering was the glueing process, as I have not ordered the double sided glue/tape stuff, as I was just hopeing to still use the original glue as I think you are saying.. I hope that works! Have to be careful like u say with dust/fingerprints etc..
Sent from my HTC Vision using XDA App
Hmm, after reading your post again, maybee I should of bought the double sided tape afterall? Do you think the old leftover glue is enough for the new digi?
Many thanks..
Sent from my HTC Vision usingall XDA App
Run over to radio shack they must have some kind of glue you can use lol. google cell phone screen glue see what info you can find.
Ok, just incase anyone is interested, got my new digitizer, followed the video, used a heat gun cerfully to melt the glue, pulled the old digitizer out, and used the original glue whilst still warm to hold the new digi in, as all of glue stayed on the case rather than on the digi, which was pretty lucky.. put it all back together and everything perfect, touchscreen back to how it should be.. cost me 17 pounds.
Sent from my HTC Vision using XDA App
How was this accompilshed?
I replaced the touch screen as well and the problem persists. Plus I never ran into a part that required a heat gun did I use the wrong item?
A VERY confusing part is getting the midframe to hold to the hinge mounts. The side (black dots all down it) should overlap the stabilizer bar on the hinge. I fidgeted with it for hours until realizing it goes over, and inadvertently damaged the highly sensitive LCD screen, which resulted in me taking the whole thing apart again to replace the LCD and digitizer. UGH!
DO NOT get the cheapo digitizer on Amazon, look for one with gray spots where the menu, home, back and search keys are on the back side. The digitizers without them will not work when you swap over the white button caps on the back. I feel like this information is vital to anyone who is replacing their G2 digitizer, but most guides and videos make no mention of it.
I used a lamp to heat up the glass to remove it the first time. Took too long the second time so I used a hair dryer.
senser1080 said:
A VERY confusing part is getting the midframe to hold to the hinge mounts. The side (black dots all down it) should overlap the stabilizer bar on the hinge. I fidgeted with it for hours until realizing it goes over, and inadvertently damaged the highly sensitive LCD screen, which resulted in me taking the whole thing apart again to replace the LCD and digitizer. UGH!
DO NOT get the cheapo digitizer on Amazon, look for one with gray spots where the menu, home, back and search keys are on the back side. The digitizers without them will not work when you swap over the white button caps on the back. I feel like this information is vital to anyone who is replacing their G2 digitizer, but most guides and videos make no mention of it.
I used a lamp to heat up the glass to remove it the first time. Took too long the second time so I used a hair dryer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So which digitizer did you end up buying and which guide or video did you follow? I am about to tear mine apart and could use the info.
senser1080 said:
A VERY confusing part is getting the midframe to hold to the hinge mounts. The side (black dots all down it) should overlap the stabilizer bar on the hinge. I fidgeted with it for hours until realizing it goes over, and inadvertently damaged the highly sensitive LCD screen, which resulted in me taking the whole thing apart again to replace the LCD and digitizer. UGH!
DO NOT get the cheapo digitizer on Amazon, look for one with gray spots where the menu, home, back and search keys are on the back side. The digitizers without them will not work when you swap over the white button caps on the back. I feel like this information is vital to anyone who is replacing their G2 digitizer, but most guides and videos make no mention of it.
I used a lamp to heat up the glass to remove it the first time. Took too long the second time so I used a hair dryer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, I did buy mine from amazon.co.uk, there were a few for sale,, the one I bought was supposed to be a genuine t-mobile g2 replacement (refurb I think, pressumably this just means that it was from a second hand g2 that had problems and the digi was taken out - and I'm pretty certain this is the case as mine has a thin film (which u leave on) over the back of the digi covering the tracks etc, which had a few very small air/dust bubbles under it (just noticeable when screen off), where I own a desire z, so now it sais t-mobile instead of htc, but I can live with that.
The small grey bits that you talk about were floating about or stuck on my digi when I pulled it off the main chassis. I had a look, and as far as I could work out, were possibly just for giving colour to the tiny led's that give you light to the home/search keys etc (I may be wrong on their use), but if you look closely, the tiny grey things have even smaller rectangles on them that relate to the positions of the led's on the circuit board. So I picked the remaining ones off the old digi, put them back in their correct holes and stuck the new digi in. I've had no problems (with a digi from amazon with no little grey things on it) so far, but maybee this is due to mine being a second hand original part..
Edit : Now after reading your post again, you're talking about bits that are actually on the digi itself, not the white caps that I'm talking about! Whoops. I didn't notice any grey spots on the digi itself, but I guess I must have them..
Sent from my HTC Vision using XDA App
ian577416 said:
I replaced the touch screen as well and the problem persists. Plus I never ran into a part that required a heat gun did I use the wrong item?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I rekon u replaced the wrong thing! Maybe the lcd?
Sent from my HTC Vision using XDA App
i just replaced mine with this one:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/230685692541?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
actually it says HTC on it and looks a lil bit differently than on the picture.
never the less, i replaced it really carefully and checked every connecting.
But somehow the Touchscreen doesn't work at all.
Can anyone help me ? what could be the problem ?
Wrong digitzer ?
is it okay, that the digitizer has direct contact to the frame where it is glued to ?
jmpcrx said:
... as will be replaceing mine v soon due to 'invisible finger problem' that's driving me nuts..
Sent from my HTC Vision using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi!
I have the same problem, I have asked it already here
So you had invisible finger press in the screen, and the screen was bad responsive?
...Just to make sure my problem is digitizer problem! The service wont change it in warranty unless the problem is there all the time! But its driving me crazy! why is it happening randomly, why isnt it all the time? How could i make the screen to do this problem when i'm at the service?
Hello, I got my DINC2 from fry's electronics on sale. I have already got it replaced three times. The first one had a software problem, just a couple days after I got it. The second one had a cluster of dead pixels on the screen, and also had problems with the capacitive buttons. What surprises me is that those were not refurbished, they were NEW phones! This one, my third replacement has dust on the bottom left corner of the screen. It is annoying in the sun, but not nocitible indoors. It is rooted, but that can be undone, I am hesitant to replace it because I don't want to get one with real issues. It is also out of the 30 day warrenty. Is there a way to remove the digitizer and clean under it without breaking anything?
Sent from my ADR6350 using XDA App
There are some vids on Youtube on removing the digitizer. I don't know though if you could reuse the digitizer though. I would imagine that you could as long as it's not damaged in the removal process.
It's not a bad process, but heating the glass to soften the glue could be the tricky part.
Bust the thing badly from only 3 foot onto hard surface.
Anybody had theirs replaced by htc or themselves or otherwise? Its cracked all over and the odd patch of yellow.
Ta slim
Sent from my HTC One X using XDA
my experience
Long story short, I have an att HOX with a broken screen that I purchased from eBay for cheap in addition to the global HOX that I am using to write this. The LCD was fine, just the glass was broken. After waiting for a replacement to ship from China, I waded into the intertubes and found several tutorials on screen repair for the HOX. After several infuriating hours I discovered something that none of the tutorials mention. The adhesive that bonds the LCD to the digitizer is very strong stuff and even with the liberal application of a decent heat gun, you stand a good chance of breaking the LCD while trying to separate it from the digitizer.
Your best bet is to purchase the display assembly and replace the entire thing. If you do decide to try and replace only the digitizer, you will need patience, lots of time(2 hours+), and some luck. Follow the directions but instead of trying to separate the two pieces in one go like they show in the tutorial, work your way in about a quarter inch or less at a time. Use the heat gun right next to where you plan to separate the LCD and then slowly work around from there. The longer it takes, the better. Just be careful not to overheat the LCD. A good rule of thumb is that if it is too hot to hold in your bare hand, you used too much heat.
This ^
If you try to only replace the digitizer.....you're gonna have a bad time
So I got this nice (albeit beat-up, but 100% functional) G2 from a friend, and for about 3 weeks it had no problems. I rooted it, put CyanogenMod 7.2 on it, worked fine.
About 3 days ago, it started behaving really weird while I was using it. Interfaces not responding, at times opening things when I didn't have my finger on the screen, usual possessed phone behavior) I did some investigating with the Developer Tools' Pointer Location display, and there's this massive dead-zone on my digitizer! The dead-zone (while holding the phone in landscape) goes from X=255.1 to X=401.1, and covers all the Y-values in that range. if I move my finger slowly enough through the deadzone from one fo the sides of it, it will register as being directly in the center of it. Other times it will show a very light touch on the right side of the zone, activating interface elements and the like.
What happened? Do I have to replace the digitizer? I don't have a warranty on it, seeing as I got it second-hand. Possible fixes, if it's not a serious hardware issue?
I don't have money to spare, so buying things to fix it might take a lot of saving.
EDIT: Got it in the mail finally, replaced it in 45 minutes. I had to use the dorm's heated-air hand-dryer to get it off, and I kinda messed up the glue a bit, but it's working just fine.
If you have to replace the digitizer, I would not worry. I just got done replacing the lcd on my G2, and it works. I bought the lcd (in your case it would be a digitizer) off ebay and my purchased also included the screw drivers and plastic tip thingy to open the phone. For the digitizer you might need to also get double sided tape.
There is a youtube video showing how to take a part and put back the phone. I think the video was like 30min, but when I did it, the time was 1.5hrs totally.
good luck if you go that route.
Previous post is spot on, for most people I would assume this won't be a hard task, I have opened and repaired dozens of g2s (and many other phones) and although sliders tend to be the most complicated its really straight forward
Find a YouTube video or other instructions online and look at it ahead of time to see if its something you feel comfortable with. Then if so, order the digitizer (90% this is the cause 10% the main flex) for around 15-20$ and all you need is a #0 Philips and a t5 torx and a hairdryer/heat gun
You won't need tape as there is more than enough sticky left after prying of the digitizer. Expect about that hour in half if your new to this, but can be done in less than 20 if you do it a lot Here is a link to info on your phone including repair guides
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=43195539
Best of luck!
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
Aw. Was hoping this wouldn't be the solution.
That sucks. Just went and ordered one, it came with screwdrivers and the prying tool, but I don't have any double-sided tape. Let's hope it's still sticky. Well, it supposedly gets here on the 9th, so I'll read up on replacing from these links. Thanks for the support. Hope I don't break the thing. :/