Related
Hit post #11 for a walkthrough on replacing the earpiece.
Funny but kinda looking for serious replies as it is quite important
Nokia AAC-0510 seems working. (Chinese) http://www.itfunz.com/thread-84490-1-1.html
Somewhere on this forum is a link to a Russian blogger who pulled one apart and (apparently) swapped out speakers.
post #157
Just to report back i received the k850i earpiece today and successfully replaced it with the original one from the Defy, works perfectly and no modding at all except flattening the terminals slightly, its a very snug fit but is working fine and is much clearer than the original one in terms of call quality. Maybe the mods could sticky this or something incase anyone else has the earpiece problem. Total cost of repair £1.99 for earpiece and about 30minutes of my time !! much better than sending to motorolla for weeks on end in my opinion.
Cheers
Wizard123
That is great info to know! I am more confident in getting a Defy now knowing I can fix it on my own.
Any guide with pictures for us?
well done wizard123
i hope i will never have to do what you did with your speaker but... who knows?
yes a detailed guide with picture and tools-to-use would be a nice idea - really useful for all the people who void the warranty
A quick question...
What's the waterproofing situation like? Is there a membrane between the earpiece and the outside world or is it built into the Defy earpiece?
No problem guys, i hope you never have the issues but i know it did hit alot of people including me and motorolla claim mines was out of warranty being only 3 months old ?! but hey i dont have time to argue or mess about as i need my phone.
I will try to get some pictures up but in the meantime follow these steps it is so so simple :
1. Remove battery & SIM card
2. Remove the 7 screws from around the phone casing and the 2 silver screws underneath the back cover. ( You will need very small torx bits )
3. Separate the two halfs of the casing, ( very stiff and fiddly but dont be affraid to use a little force )
4. Carefully lift off the 2 connectors on the main PCB board and lift it out ( careful not to lose the yellow rubber washers )
5. Use a small pair of pliers or long nosed pliers to gently grib either side of the earpiece and slowly wiggle side to side untill it comes loose and lifts out ( This takes patience as it is very well glued in but does free off )
6. Take your new K850i earpiece and place into the slot with the two springy copper terminals facing up towards the top of the phone ( you dont HAVE to but i did flatten the terminals a little bit so not to bend the PCB board when you place it back in ) having the springy terminals on these earpieces placed the correct way up creates a very solid connection to the board too unlike the original earpieces which dont have any at all just flat terminals.
7. Return the PCB board back into position and reattach the 2 connectors removed in step 4.
8. Return the casing back into place and install all the screws ( dont forget the 2 SILVER screws FIRST, these hold the PCB board down to the casing and hold the connection solid to the earpiece )
9. Place SIM card and battery back in and boot up your fresh earpieced Defy
Pictures to follow soon hopefully
Cheers
Wizard123
*EDIT*
Have attached some pictures to reference, hope they help
technome said:
A quick question...
What's the waterproofing situation like? Is there a membrane between the earpiece and the outside world or is it built into the Defy earpiece?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There IS a tiny tiny membrane between the earpiece and the casing and does appear that it would still be waterproof but i have yet to test that and not sure if i will as it is a BIG BIG risk lol ( maybe though hmmm )
Thanks for that.
So the membrane stayed with the handset casing through the procedure?
wizard123 said:
*snip*
having the springy terminals on these earpieces placed the correct way up creates a very solid connection to the board too unlike the original earpieces which dont have any at all just flat terminals.
*snip*
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's interesting. Maybe the failures are caused by poor connections in the first place. Perhaps a pre-emptive strike with some electrically conductive paint would save the day. It's claimed to function as an adhesive.
http(remove this bit)://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ELECTRICALLY-CONDUCTIVE-SILVER-PAINT-PINTURA-CONDUTORA-/110660756415?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item19c3e523bf#ht_1850wt_1062
wizard123 said:
No problem guys, i hope you never have the issues but i know it did hit alot of people including me and motorolla claim mines was out of warranty being only 3 months old ?! but hey i dont have time to argue or mess about as i need my phone.
I will try to get some pictures up but in the meantime follow these steps it is so so simple :
1. Remove battery & SIM card
2. Remove the 7 screws from around the phone casing and the 2 silver screws underneath the back cover. ( You will need very small torx bits )
3. Separate the two halfs of the casing, ( very stiff and fiddly but dont be affraid to use a little force )
4. Carefully lift off the 2 connectors on the main PCB board and lift it out ( careful not to lose the yellow rubber washers )
5. Use a small pair of pliers or long nosed pliers to gently grib either side of the earpiece and slowly wiggle side to side untill it comes loose and lifts out ( This takes patience as it is very well glued in but does free off )
6. Take your new K850i earpiece and place into the slot with the two springy copper terminals facing up towards the top of the phone ( you dont HAVE to but i did flatten the terminals a little bit so not to bend the PCB board when you place it back in ) having the springy terminals on these earpieces placed the correct way up creates a very solid connection to the board too unlike the original earpieces which dont have any at all just flat terminals.
7. Return the PCB board back into position and reattach the 2 connectors removed in step 4.
8. Return the casing back into place and install all the screws ( dont forget the 2 SILVER screws FIRST, these hold the PCB board down to the casing and hold the connection solid to the earpiece )
9. Place SIM card and battery back in and boot up your fresh earpieced Defy
Pictures to follow soon hopefully
Cheers
Wizard123
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great guide there - may well help quite a few people
technome said:
Thanks for that.
So the membrane stayed with the handset casing through the procedure?
That's interesting. Maybe the failures are caused by poor connections in the first place. Perhaps a pre-emptive strike with some electrically conductive paint would save the day. It's claimed to function as an adhesive.
http(remove this bit)://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ELECTRICALLY-CONDUCTIVE-SILVER-PAINT-PINTURA-CONDUTORA-/110660756415?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item19c3e523bf#ht_1850wt_1062
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes only the earpiece came away from the casing using the method i applied but again i can't swear by the membrane as it could possibly be different with other variants of the phone ( although i doubt it ).
And plus for me atleast, i'd rather have a working phone than a waterproof phone ( just me though )
I am nearly certain its an actual defect with the earpieces because if you blow the earpiece with some canned air it will function for 5-10 seconds before going off again.
I do think there may be a problem with both the connections and earpieces though as the way the oem connections are designed in the Defy for the earpiece contacts are piss poor, excuse my french lol.
Well, I'm sending my Defy in for repair today, after my earpiece started playing-up intermittently over the weekend. I tried to insist on a replacement but Motorola's support team were adamant that a repair is my only option under the terms of my warranty. Ah, well. I've got a spare phone.
That said, I will likely "paint" the earpiece connections upon its return and it's good to know that the K850i part works. I may buy a couple as a precaution.
technome said:
Well, I'm sending my Defy in for repair today, after my earpiece started playing-up intermittently over the weekend. I tried to insist on a replacement but Motorola's support team were adamant that a repair is my only option under the terms of my warranty. Ah, well. I've got a spare phone.
That said, I will likely "paint" the earpiece connections upon its return and it's good to know that the K850i part works. I may buy a couple as a precaution.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That sucks man sorry to hear that, it seems to be not if it will happen but when it will happen with these earpieces, yep motorola sucks for customer support to be fair. I hope your phone comes back ok though, alot of people have had it repair only for it to fail again a few weeks later.
Can I just double check which seller you got yours from as I've had a look on ebay & the three that are for sale look different styles - unless the pics are not of actual items?
Cheers
sp8y said:
Can I just double check which seller you got yours from as I've had a look on ebay & the three that are for sale look different styles - unless the pics are not of actual items?
Cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The actual one i used is this one :
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300370841729&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
There is an actual motorola one that has the same terminals as the original but ( my opinion i would not trust another earpiece from them ) :
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220640434368&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
I wouldnt worry too much if they look slightly different aslong as they are for the k850i as it will most likely be because they are from different manufacturers
Hope that helps
That's great thanks very much
Might just order one to keep as you never know when it'll stop working.
I had my earpiece replaced by the company, you should really send it to motorola and don't mess around with the device.
Hello!
Has anyone seen a disassembly guide / dismantlling guide for an xperia play? I have had a quick look and havent seen one. A video one would be really good and one that looks at the digitizer / glass would be best for me as I seem to have broken mine already, oops!
Cheers
That sucks.
If you have Rogers they have a replacement policy. I would try that before you take it apart. Good luck. I haven't seen any guides yet. It is a pretty new phone.
You have a teardown here, it may be useful: http://www.ubmtechinsights.com/teardowns/sony-xperia-play-teardown/
I have found this, but would still like to see a video if one exists?
http://www.repairyourmobile.net/sony-ericsson-disassembly/sony-ericsson-xperia-play-disassembly/
Cheers
You can get a brand new OEM Sony Ericsson Touch Digitizer Screen on eBay from here: http://cgi.ebay.ca/OEM-Touch-Digiti...ultDomain_0&hash=item27bb11025c#ht_4868wt_905
I just ordered an OEM Xperia PLAY Black Housing Set from them and it's on its way. Funny how those "takedown" photos don't show you how they disconnected the sliding screen from the gamepad base. I got stuck at that part and have no idea how they were able to remove it. LOL
Rogers replacement policy doesn't give you the same model.... They have designated refurbished models available at no cost per person per life... You can only use it once... Unless the customer support was lying to me, that is what she told me.
Sent from my R800i using XDA App
Have you dealt with rogers before? The have no issue flatout lying to your face. I cant tell you how many times I got screwed over by those ****ers. So I get the feeling you'd be SOL
Sent from my R800i using XDA App
The only reason I switched over to Rogers was to get the Xperia PLAY for $99.99 on a 3 year agreement. I've been with Fido eversince and even though they're owned by Rogers now, I can say that Fido deals with their customers way better than Rogers does. When my 3 year agreement is done I'm going back with Fido. I already network unlocked my Xperia PLAY so if I still have it by then all I have to do is get a Fido SIM card.
Xperia Play disassembly pictures
Hey,
I am in the middle of taking apart my Xperia Play to replace the screen. Now, I got everything separated and taken apart except the screen half. I am having problem removing these silver rivets, which look like screws with a covering but the covering doesn't peel/come off. I have attached pictures of these in hopes that someone knows how to remove them.
Additionally, if anyone has experience replacing an Xperia Play screen, I'd love the advice.
Thanks in advance.
McD
Screen
Hi
Dont take the rivets OFF! If you just slide the control pad part off the metal casing you can get to the 2 screws you need to get to.
I have just finished replacing my screen and it is the scariest screen i have ever replaced as you need to go from back to front lol
I have attached a pic of my finished product, sorry i should of taken photos during it but i was shaking lol
Flava0ne said:
The only reason I switched over to Rogers was to get the Xperia PLAY for $99.99 on a 3 year agreement. I've been with Fido eversince and even though they're owned by Rogers now, I can say that Fido deals with their customers way better than Rogers does. When my 3 year agreement is done I'm going back with Fido. I already network unlocked my Xperia PLAY so if I still have it by then all I have to do is get a Fido SIM card.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I desperately hope that you did not get locked down to a 3 year agreement to just get this phone. As fun as this phone is (and likely to be used long past when I get another phone, just for Emulators and random games), it is not worth a 3 year contract. 2, I can understand. 1 would be more proper. 3 years is nuts in this industry. They have made back their offset of cost within 1.5 years usually.
Video!!
Hi
For anyone else who might benifit from this, here you go:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3n5ZfkqhzE
Edd
eddieo said:
Hi
For anyone else who might benifit from this, here you go:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3n5ZfkqhzE
Edd
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for that video link, I think it'll really help other people who might need to do some repairs on their own to their Xperia PLAY. I just wish that I came across that video earlier when I had to disassemble mines, I was so nervous when I was doing it cause all I had to go by where those pictures posted earlier and it left out a whole lot that I had to figure out myself.
Replacing Digitizer
Hello, Flava0ne
Do I have to take entire phone apart to replace digitizer? Is there simpler way to do it? Screen is fine - only digitizer is broken. Can it be removed from the top or bottom top access only?
Thank you
WOW sorry, too many tabs open. Wrong topic!!!
(Disregard this post)
Two questions: How far can you go without breaking a warranty seal and how many internal water damage indicators / liquid sensors are there? I just need to check since they are threatening $300 if they find anything and I work in the cold and frequently see condensation. I do avoid condensation actively and don't even allow it in the bathroom when showering.
---------- Post added at 03:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:03 PM ----------
OK, I went as far as I dared by completely taking apart the bottom piece (gamepad, camera, microSD slot, SIM slot, headset/remote jack, primary and secondary microphone, antennas, speakers, microUSB, etc) and, so far, I have found three. It was pretty easy up to this point and I didn't notice any kind of warranty seal.
I just removed all T6 screws from the back and lifted the catches along the bottom (headset/microUSB) side using my fingernail. One corner should be loose and you can start there and slide with no marring (didn't need my plastic pry tool). I don't know why, exactly, but the internal L & R switches are stuck to black adhesive films covering openings in this black piece but I was able to lift and unstick them without touching the films. Anyway, when you remove and flip this piece over, you should see a white square just below the mSD and SIM card slot. It's actually visible through a pinhole on the other side. If it's pink/red, you've got a problem, even if it's caused by condensation (they will still void your warranty for "water damage"). When I touched it, a plastic film on the back slipped off but stuck back on. The whole thing seems like it peels off quite easily.
Anyway, I would wiggle the power button loose before moving on. Next, there are now two tiny cross-head screws that I used a PH00x50 driver on. Yes, one of them was clearly accessible as soon as you removed the battery, but why remove it until you are ready to remove both? Once those are out, let the headphone jack dangle off its ribbon cable and lift the PCB enough to disconnect the display connector from the PCB... just stick something wide and flat in there and twist. Be careful not to damage the tiny ribbon cable that connects the touchpad area from the gamepad because it still needs to be disconnected. Now, this is OPPOSITE of how many larger but similar connectors work, so pay attention: To disconnect it, locate the tiny darker-colored flap of plastic on the opposite side of the connector from where the cable goes in. Lift it from the opposite side toward the side where the cable inserts. It will stand straight up and then you can slide the cable out. If you have to remove it, the headphone/remote jack appears to work the same way.
Anyway, this should completely free the PCB and leave the gamepad shell attached to the display. The gamepad shell should be free from the front half of the phone now as well, leaving only the sliding metal mounting bracket.
Now, a couple of interesting things here: I can clearly tell that one of the T6 screws by the volume button was protruding too far and caused a visible sliding scratch on the underside of my top shell. It may make sense to loosen these a bit on a new phone before this happens. You can also see if imperfections in the white Teflon sliding bumps are causing scratches on the front (my first phone did not, my second did in no time).
Now, let's go back to the gamepad faceplate. The buttons should easily fall out if you want them too, but I was only interested in finding the water sensors and here are two more: one is right by the microphone hole and the other in diagonally opposite under the Playstation Certified logo. They look identical to the one on the back piece.
I'm sure that there is at least one in the LCD assembly as well, but mine is well sealed and I didn't want to lift any of those silvery-gray stickers covering the screws when I have a warranty replacement on the way. I've gone far enough to satisfy my curiosity.
---------- Post added at 03:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:01 PM ----------
A couple notes on re-assembly:
As expected, it's a bit more difficult, especially because you don't have leverage to reconnect the display when it is in place. The last fold of the cable it supposed to fit UNDER the metal bracket and the slide mechanism doesn't really work if it isn't (a certain panel will not slide back if it is not folded under). I'm not sure how it affects it but it does. You will need a thin, long, flat utensil like a plastic butter knife or something to either A) provide leverage to connect the connector or B) tuck the cable back under the bracket after connecting it. You need to have already connected the touchpads and oriented the gamepad faceplate around/under the bracket, though it will not be secured. The phone also needs to be in the open position. When you tuck the cable under, slide it to the closed position and back. If the cable seated properly, the PCB and gamepad faceplate should sit pretty flat and should no longer be falling off of the bracket even though it isn't really secured.
The D-pad needs to be arranged properly as well. One side is cut. If you look closely, there are three holes in the four inner corners that align with three plus-shaped pegs, so you can't get it wrong if you pay attention.
The power/lock button isn't going to stay in place until you secure the bottom housing, so leave it off until just before you are ready to do that to avoid losing it.
Be careful not to seal dust in the camera lens. Don't forget to put the cross-head screws back before you do the back housing because you can't easily access one. Remember to keep the four black screws by the L, R, and volume buttons a little loose if you had a problem with them scratching the other half of the phone.
Be sure to download the Xperia Play test program from the Google Market and verify that all buttons and touch inputs function properly.
I'll be sure to wear my Looxcie next time.
I feel sorry for you blokes taking apart the xperia
it's going to be a royal pain in the ass. especially when you reach that "point"
the point where you have **** all over the table and you are like god how did i get this deep into disassembly
then the part when you are shaking / nervous about breaking a part, or worse yet. you end up breaking it. i would be real scared lol.
all i can say is go real slow. REAL slow
and if anything wont move. dont force it lol
Hogwarts said:
I feel sorry for you blokes taking apart the xperia
it's going to be a royal pain in the ass. especially when you reach that "point"
the point where you have **** all over the table and you are like god how did i get this deep into disassembly
then the part when you are shaking / nervous about breaking a part, or worse yet. you end up breaking it. i would be real scared lol.
all i can say is go real slow. REAL slow
and if anything wont move. dont force it lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe I've just taken apart too many laptops and gadgets before but I never felt that way when I got the back piece completely apart... or maybe "that point" is only after you get into the front assembly. I did the rear in bed with the screws laying on the covers beside me and didn't even lose the arrangement of a single one.
Anyway, moments after getting my RMA replacement shipped email notification this morning, I dropped my R800at that is supposed to be getting sent back and now the touch digitizer is shattered. I've ordered a replacement but I'm hoping that I'll be sending it back with the original from the RMA replacement. Does anyone know if the R800a or R800at will fit a R800 Z1i chassis? These are all over eBay. Also, is there any tamper seal? I understand that there are screws under the silver/gray stickers on the front piece but those look easy enough to reapply.
Did I mention that they wanted to turn my RMA down for the flaking paint on the front buttons alone? The night before I called to RMA for an alarm issue (two days ago), the battery door cracked right at the pry point. I remove it more often than most because I carry a second official battery and a Sony Ericsson EP900 charger, so it failed under normal wear-and-tear, but they wanted to say that I couldn't RMA for my main issue (alarm dismisses itself) because of that EVEN THOUGH THE RMA UNITS DON'T INCLUDE A BATTERY COVER!
Damn. Sony Ericsson can be picky. I babied the thing and only just now dropped it. Perhaps AT&T is a little too cautious with the terms of Sony's warranty (it is processed through them but the rules come from Sony).
CZroe said:
Maybe I've just taken apart too many laptops and gadgets before but I never felt that way when I got the back piece completely apart... or maybe "that point" is only after you get into the front assembly. I did the rear in bed with the screws laying on the covers beside me and didn't even lose the arrangement of a single one.
Anyway, moments after getting my RMA replacement shipped email notification this morning, I dropped my R800at that is supposed to be getting sent back and now the touch digitizer is shattered. I've ordered a replacement but I'm hoping that I'll be sending it back with the original from the RMA replacement. Does anyone know if the R800a or R800at will fit a R800 Z1i chassis? These are all over eBay. Also, is there any tamper seal? I understand that there are screws under the silver/gray stickers on the front piece but those look easy enough to reapply.
Did I mention that they wanted to turn my RMA down for the flaking paint on the front buttons alone? The night before I called to RMA for an alarm issue (two days ago), the battery door cracked right at the pry point. I remove it more often than most because I carry a second official battery and a Sony Ericsson EP900 charger, so it failed under normal wear-and-tear, but they wanted to say that I couldn't RMA for my main issue (alarm dismisses itself) because of that EVEN THOUGH THE RMA UNITS DON'T INCLUDE A BATTERY COVER!
Damn. Sony Ericsson can be picky. I babied the thing and only just now dropped it. Perhaps AT&T is a little too cautious with the terms of Sony's warranty (it is processed through them but the rules come from Sony).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've always said this phone is cheaply made and now i have more proof
mine came brand new out of the box with a blemish on the screen
I'm not picky so i just kept it.
Its a blemish in the LCD screen not the digitizer or glass
and yeah the cheap ass plastic assembly is not helping either.
they should have used aluminum or something. more durable
OK, so I finished the job. I did not see any more water indicators in the top shell and I did not find a single tamper-resistant label in the entire device. I left the slider assembly intact (I think it's riveted) and I didn't peel the flex PCB out of the top shell or off of the touchoads, but it was what anyone would consider "fully disassembled." I seem to have misplaced my camera but video will be coming when I find and edit it.
Well, it's 6 am here and I decided to do a little experiment with my phone to boost my signal.
I simply placed aluminum foil over the signal connector thingy and it did happen to boost it up to 3 steady bars, when I would normally get about 1.
This may or may not work for you. Let me know if this actually worked for you.
Sent from my ADR6350 using XDA Premium App
Pictures would be great. There are two antenna connectors in the back cover, one near the bottom and one near the top.
Didnt work for me
arent you supposed to put toothpaste in the foil and wrap it good?
jesand83 said:
Pictures would be great. There are two antenna connectors in the back cover, one near the bottom and one near the top.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, that's exactly were I placed them and closed the cover. It molds right in.
Sent from my ADR6350 using XDA Premium App
voxigenboy said:
arent you supposed to put toothpaste in the foil and wrap it good?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know anything about that.
Sent from my ADR6350 using XDA Premium App
wouldn't that put both the ground and signal in contact with each other? possible to post a quick picture?
There are 4 contacts under the phone, and 4 on the back cover. 2 of them (next to the camera) are linked. I suspect the contacts next to the camera are the looped GPS antenna.
The other 2 contacts are separate radios. One is wifi and the other is mobile (they are not looped). These should not be bridged (this can cause problems, actually). I think the outer contact is mobile and the inner (has the longer yellow strip on stock back cover) is wifi.
I've been kinda studying the back cover antenna thing and I've come to a bit of a strange conclusion: I knew the yellow bit was conductive paint or ink, but I'm suspecting that the yellow bit is the entire antenna as I can't find any other connectivity, wires, etc.
I know I've been defending this device in terms of signal quality, but I'm thinking, now, that this can be improved a lot. I'm probably going to be destroying my back cover in the name of science this weekend. I know I can get a replacement back cover so no big deal!
nimdae said:
There are 4 contacts under the phone, and 4 on the back cover. 2 of them (next to the camera) are linked. I suspect the contacts next to the camera are the looped GPS antenna.
The other 2 contacts are separate radios. One is wifi and the other is mobile (they are not looped). These should not be bridged (this can cause problems, actually). I think the outer contact is mobile and the inner (has the longer yellow strip on stock back cover) is wifi.
I've been kinda studying the back cover antenna thing and I've come to a bit of a strange conclusion: I knew the yellow bit was conductive paint or ink, but I'm suspecting that the yellow bit is the entire antenna as I can't find any other connectivity, wires, etc.
I know I've been defending this device in terms of signal quality, but I'm thinking, now, that this can be improved a lot. I'm probably going to be destroying my back cover in the name of science this weekend. I know I can get a replacement back cover so no big deal!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a cover that's dented..if you need it for science...well..
sent from an under rated phone
nimdae said:
There are 4 contacts under the phone, and 4 on the back cover. 2 of them (next to the camera) are linked. I suspect the contacts next to the camera are the looped GPS antenna.
The other 2 contacts are separate radios. One is wifi and the other is mobile (they are not looped). These should not be bridged (this can cause problems, actually). I think the outer contact is mobile and the inner (has the longer yellow strip on stock back cover) is wifi.
I've been kinda studying the back cover antenna thing and I've come to a bit of a strange conclusion: I knew the yellow bit was conductive paint or ink, but I'm suspecting that the yellow bit is the entire antenna as I can't find any other connectivity, wires, etc.
I know I've been defending this device in terms of signal quality, but I'm thinking, now, that this can be improved a lot. I'm probably going to be destroying my back cover in the name of science this weekend. I know I can get a replacement back cover so no big deal!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
cool! haha. look forward to hear back any conclusions or findings from your experimenting.
nimdae said:
There are 4 contacts under the phone, and 4 on the back cover. 2 of them (next to the camera) are linked. I suspect the contacts next to the camera are the looped GPS antenna.
The other 2 contacts are separate radios. One is wifi and the other is mobile (they are not looped). These should not be bridged (this can cause problems, actually). I think the outer contact is mobile and the inner (has the longer yellow strip on stock back cover) is wifi.
I've been kinda studying the back cover antenna thing and I've come to a bit of a strange conclusion: I knew the yellow bit was conductive paint or ink, but I'm suspecting that the yellow bit is the entire antenna as I can't find any other connectivity, wires, etc.
I know I've been defending this device in terms of signal quality, but I'm thinking, now, that this can be improved a lot. I'm probably going to be destroying my back cover in the name of science this weekend. I know I can get a replacement back cover so no big deal!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting. I will have to do some science as well, with FOIL!
anyone know where I can get conductive paint from? Maybe thickening the pre painted paint will make a better connection with the signal thingies?
And about the pics, sorry I can't post any, my phone is the only camera I have at the moment.
Sent from my ADR6350 using XDA Premium App
you could still take pictures with the battery cover off, no? isn't the foil on the battery door?
Avelnan said:
Interesting. I will have to do some science as well, with FOIL!
anyone know where I can get conductive paint from? Maybe thickening the pre painted paint will make a better connection with the signal thingies?
And about the pics, sorry I can't post any, my phone is the only camera I have at the moment.
Sent from my ADR6350 using XDA Premium App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Conductive ink is generally composed of a conductive polymer or contains metallic dust for conductivity. It's generally used as a cheaper method of bridge contacts between conductors. I've never seen it used this way before.
One thing I know about wireless signaling is length of antenna wire is important. I don't know the exact math for determining optimal length by frequency, but I do know the longer the better, preferably long enough to receive a full wavelength.
To be honest I'd be quite surprised if the conductive ink is being used as the antenna. However, I really can't find evidence to state otherwise.
nimdae said:
To be honest I'd be quite surprised if the conductive ink is being used as the antenna. However, I really can't find evidence to state otherwise.
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I have to agree..since it only gets signal with cover on.
sent from an under rated phone
The inner contact is actually the mobile radio. I'm getting signal with bus wire but it's not a marked improvement. This is connected to the full 400' spool, though.
I've already damaged my back cover so I'm pretty much committed to this experiment. Going to do a little more testing before I commit to modification.
nimdae said:
The inner contact is actually the mobile radio. I'm getting signal with bus wire but it's not a marked improvement. This is connected to the full 400' spool, though.
I've already damaged my back cover so I'm pretty much committed to this experiment. Going to do a little more testing before I commit to modification.
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I have an extra. Where you live
sent from an under rated phone
knipp21 said:
I have an extra. Where you live
sent from an under rated phone
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Eh, don't worry about it It's not gonna bother me to have to buy a new one.
After a bit of testing using a 1' length of wire (used solder to build a flat contact on the end and pressed it in, feeding the wire through the tiny hold...for testing) I've found the signal strength marginally improves, but the data speeds improve quite a bit. In one of my rooms I tend to get poor signal/speed (pipes? not sure) but was able to double my speeds. However, the connection was still pretty unstable.
The end with my homemade flat contact broke and I don't feel like making another one right now. I have a temporary solution that works, but is a bit fragile.
nimdae said:
Eh, don't worry about it It's not gonna bother me to have to buy a new one.
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Ok btw I got hulu plus to work
sent from an under rated phone
Very interested to hear your results, nimdae. I was almost going to play around with this the other day.
I do have a suspicion though that some of the antenna may actually be "hidden" in the cover. I managed to carve off and expose some metallic looking material where you open the case at. Not sure if it is indeed since I didn't go any further.
Foil worked for me!!! My signal just went from -125 dbm to 98 dbm!!
Sent from my Incredible 2 using XDA App
My Dinc2, like everyone else's, has terrible reception. (relatively speaking). About a week ago, it went from tolerable to dropping calls like crazy. The db use to be in the 90's, but it has since pegged at 105 and stays there no matter what - indoors or outdoors, unless I'm downtown where a tower is almost in sight. WHY did this degradation happen? I flashed from the 320 radio to the 312, no change at all. I am running the Magnolia ROM, after having tried the others. The reception was doing fine up until a week ago....
Yesterday, I put my flashlight in my pocket, which has a magnetic base. When I used it later, I noticed something stuck to the magnet... it was a "U" shaped piece of metal. It was very defined, then it occurred to me it wasnt a U, it was a C. The "C" from the "HTC" on the back cover. The H and the T were already gone. So I wonder... if these being metal had anything to do with the antenna being in the back cover? Could these tiny pieces of metal be contributing to the reception? Or their loss being a determent?
If you have the metal HTC letters on your back cover, could you check your db rating then pop them out, and check it again? Strange request I know... but all in the name of science!
I would give anything for the Dinc2 to have Motorola like reception.... it's almost perfect, except for that.
I know it is a long shot, it was just a thought. The metal loading of the cover may or may not have anything to do with the reception... from what I've read the aftermarket covers do not receive as well as OEM's, so who knows.
if i took off back cover and dial *#4636#*#* i found the "db" became 105 and i put it back it goes normal,that means the antenna was integrated in back cover,so you can try do to it to find if the problem cause by back cover and order a new cover over the Amazon.
I have had this phone since May of 2011 and I never noticed that the HTC on the back cover had the metal inlays!!!!! Wow!!!! Anyway, I don't want to pop mine out but I did the same by removing the back cover and the db's also jumped to 105 for me when I did that.
Pop off your back cover and grab some tweezers or a small flat head screw driver. You'll see 4 gold prongs on the back of your phone. 2 near the camera and 2 in the bottom left corner. Gently bend those up a little bit, being careful not to break them off. Now grab a pencil with a good eraser. Look at the inside of your back cover and you will see yellow/goldish lines that line up with the prongs you just bent. Rub these lines with the eraser. Personally I would do this with my phone turned off, but that probably doesn't really matter. I suspect your reception will return to normal.
The metal letters have nothing to do with the antennas. They're located near the middle of the thinnest section of the back cover. The plastic would be thicker there if any metal or wires were running close enough for them to do anything.
Sent from my ICS Dinc2
I wasn't even having trouble with mine and did this and worked great. Thanks for the tip!!!
I bent the tabs, I tried the foil trick, I tried up and down grading the radio, and with the cover on at my house, I'm looking at 105db. I borrowed a Verizon Samsung network extender which plugs in the wall and internet router, and when I'm within 10 feet of it, my phone registers about 70db. However, it makes my GPS location about 75 miles away!
So I'm a loss... I'm grasping at straws here trying to not give up on the Dinc2.
My guess would be that a new back cover is in order then. Do you know anyone that has a Dinc2 that you could try swapping covers with?
If that doesn't work then maybe the magnet damaged your phone. Magnets can do some weird things to electronics.
Sent from my ICS Dinc2
Hello there!
I bought my xperia m 10 days ago, and i am pleased so far, except for one thing..
I noticed yesterday that the removable cover has started creaking, especially on the side with no buttons where the usb port is.
Has anyone else noticed that with their device? Is this something that inevitably happens after a while, or should i try to get it replaced because of a defect?
Yes, it started happening a few days after I bought or... If it happens to others too, I'll assume it's inevitable
This message was brought to you from my Sony Xperia M C1905 using Tapatalk.
Hmm I see..
Well I thought I'd ask because if it is something that is going to happen anyway, i will not bother taking it to the store.
They will have to send the phone to the service center and all that fuss just to replace the back cover, so it is not worth it.
If someone else can also confirm that this is the case with their phone I will be assured.
My phone also makes noises when pushed, most at top right and bottom left corners.
Well I take it there is nothing I can do about it then, so no point in returning it, I will have to live with it...
It is a shame though, because other than that the phone is outstanding in terms of value, I see no reason to spend any more that what I spent on this. It hits the sweet spot for me in the price/performance scale.
Has anyone found any solution to this problem?
I have tried putting little pieces of paper at the hotspots (bottom left and below the usb port in my case) but I had little success...
I am also curious to hear reports from others, maybe a silicon case can lessen the issue...
Cassius Away said:
Has anyone found any solution to this problem?
I have tried putting little pieces of paper at the hotspots (bottom left and below the usb port in my case) but I had little success...
I am also curious to hear reports from others, maybe a silicon case can lessen the issue...
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I have silicone case, it is the same. I am thinking about using thin layer of hotglue. It can be peeled of easily.
After some experimenting I found that putting a small piece of paper (3mm tall and about 3cm long) between the phone and the cover eliminated the major creaks that where in the lower-middle left side of my phone. I just folded a piece of printer paper in two and cut it to the above dimensions. If you try it make sure to put it in a way that does not block the small plastic clips that clip on the phone.