Develop Bugs

HELP ME!! Stylus end is stuck!

:? Boy do I feel dumb.
I've been using a 3-1 stylus (from Proporta) on my M2K and today the plastic "tip" got stuck in the unit's slot! Peering down the slot using a desk-lamp I can see the tip and it's off-centre to the actual axis of the hole. It looks like the hole for the stylus is NOT a tube - but is instead merely an opening into the unit. (thinking about it - I'd noticed that the stylus tip was "awkward" to fit into the slot a couple of times - obviously it had been getting caught in the body-work).
Stupidly I've further compounded my troubles by attempting to fineagle (technical term.. ) the tip out by using a biro refill - and the tip of the biro refill got stuck in the stylus tip!!! AAARGH! :shock:
Looks like I'll need to dismantle the entire bloody unit to get this thing out - so... how do I do it, what do I need, and where can I obtain the tools??
DOH!!!!

Damm, your having one of those day's
Just as a side note.
Don’t buy or use 3 in 1 stylus, they will break the clamp in the device holding the stylus in place so the stylus gets so loose that it will slide out and in without any resistance

Check your warranty before taking your unit apart!
You'll need a T6x60 and maybe a T7x60 drive. Then search for a thread on this forum that will guide you through the dismantling process.
good luck!

nomadman said:
Check your warranty before taking your unit apart!
You'll need a T6x60 and maybe a T7x60 drive. Then search for a thread on this forum that will guide you through the dismantling process.
good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
somehow I doubt Orange will be terribly impressed with what's hapened!!!
Anyone know how much it would cost to have the unit dismantled by a repair workshop (and thus maintain the warranty)? And is there such a place in central London?

Why not try the finest tad (more technical phraseology) of super glue on the end of your 3 in 1, push in hole, wait 1 minute and pull out. It might just work and surely would have done without that biro bit. Got to be worth a try - but be frugal with the glue !
By the way, I've used a 3 in 1 form Proporta for 3 months now and the old stylus fits and is retained just the same as its always has done (just tried it).

Stylus.
Hmmm I dont remember where i bought mine, but this is the second time i need to get the 9090 to service.
There is no resistense at all, it just slide in and out by it self
They are going right to the trashbin now.
Do you have a link to where you got yours??
Bottom stylus is the original.
Much more soft in the area where the clamp goes in

Mine came from here;
http://www.proporta.com/F02/PPF02P05.php?t_id=933&t_mode=des
But having looked at your photograph, and had a good look at my stylii, the 'shoulder' is different on my original stylus and that from Proporta - just as your picky shows. Still haven't had a problem though - YET.

Don't like it that you have to take of the tip to use the pen as reset tool
The ones i got are working very good, but I just cant use them any more since they destroy the clamp.
Here's one more pic.

I don't. I just use the tip of the stylus for re-set.

If you pull out the stylus and look into the hole in the BA, does it look like white plastic clamps in your BA.
I can se 2 white plastic clamps in mine.

Yes - just the same !

Since we both have plastic clamps, my stylus clamp shoulders must be the reason for the defect in the BA.
Well then I can only say to anybody reading this thread, don't buy 3 in 1 stylus that look like the ones in the pictures :!: :!:

TIP: Use a software to reset the PPC. I use CLaunch on normal reset. During lockups, I have to use the stylus. But that's only 1out of 10 resets.
http://home.pacific.net.sg/~welic/claunch.html

nomadman - sir, sorry this is out of the topic.... i just noticed your ROM version... where did you get the ROM update for our XDA IIs?
Thanks!

YAY! Fixed it last night.
1 T6 driver and 1 small flat bladed screwdriver were all the tools necessary.
Just removed the 2 silver screws, and 3 of the black ones (the "Void" sticker was untouched) and the rear cover was loose enough to allow the very flat blade of the screwdriver in just far enough to dislodge the "item" and it just dropped out.
reassembly was easy and the only shock I got was when I turned the unit back on the emergency battery was nearly dead!! I'd only had the main battery off the unit for 5 minutes!!!! Not terribly impressed by that I have to say.

Replacing the digitizer on the TP2

Hi,
Just purchased a TP2 with a cracked digitizer. I also have the replacement. I've done a bit of research, and it looks like a ton of steps. I'm pretty confident I can do it, so all I'm really looking for is some tips. Any surprises I might see that may not have been covered in this guide? This is what I have so far:
http://translate.google.co.uk/trans...ka/htc_touch_pro2/&sl=ru&tl=en&hl=en&ie=UTF-8

how did you conclude that your digitizer is cracked?

The LCD is fine. It's the top layer of plastic that is cracked. I haven't received the phone yet, but I inspected it, and that's what I concluded. The person who sold it to me is including a replacement part, but I know I'm looking at a lengthy process to dismantle the device.

Do you have to take apart the entire phone just to change the digitizer? I thought you could just hook something underneath the corner and pry it out.
It seems like such a drag if you have to take the whole phone apart to change an exterior item.

Man you're in for a world of hurt and frustration... Easier to just purchase and replace the LCD and digitizer together...
But hey, good luck.....

have you managed to replace the digitizer only? if its such a mission why are so many people selling them on ebay? a scam maby lol?

i too am interested in your results, just now bought a cracked LCD htc touch pro 2 for $100, touching the screen works, except that the phone is stuck in head-set mode and can't seem to get out of it. also, i want to replace the lcd and use the phone myself. can you pls post your success/educational steps which you followed. also, where did you buy the replacement LCD? how much ? pls help.

ultramag69 said:
Man you're in for a world of hurt and frustration... Easier to just purchase and replace the LCD and digitizer together...
But hey, good luck.....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Totally agree here. From what I have read you dont want to mess around with trying to pry the current digitizer off and then reapply a new one on. It's a HUGE pain in the ass. Just purchase a replacement LCD screen/digitizer combo and i's apparently super easy to swap out.

I've taken apart tons of phones, I'm currently waiting on a digitizer to replace for my TP2. If you search this forum you will find instructions how to do it.
While waiting I've been reviewing the instructions.
As always the hardest part is putting it back together.
The only thing I can recommend to you is to don't worry about replacing it. Take pictures with a digital camera as you go so you can know how to put it back together.
Hopefully I will get mine by this weekend. It is for a T-Mobile TP2 and the only shop to have one available was in Hong Kong.
Good luck.

Redman0570 said:
I've taken apart tons of phones, I'm currently waiting on a digitizer to replace for my TP2. If you search this forum you will find instructions how to do it.
While waiting I've been reviewing the instructions.
As always the hardest part is putting it back together.
The only thing I can recommend to you is to don't worry about replacing it. Take pictures with a digital camera as you go so you can know how to put it back together.
Hopefully I will get mine by this weekend. It is for a T-Mobile TP2 and the only shop to have one available was in Hong Kong.
Good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, can u post how you go with this e.g. is it easy enough to seperate the lcd and touchscreen. Maby a few pics as well if you can.
Cheers

It can be done but it requires ALOT of patience. Take it slowly and try not to leaver against the LCD in anyway. If you do break the screen when replacing it a replacement isn't expensive.

I replaced the digitizer twice. Taking the phone apart and assembling it back is difficult only when you do it for the first time. Once you know what's going on it just takes some time and precision. The REALLY tough part when replacing JUST the digitizer is putting the lcd and digitizer together without any dust or fingerprints in between. I ended up with dusting and vacuuming the room, putting some super-clean brand new plastic bags around the workplace and putting the cold shower on. Then using super-clean glass polishing microfibre cloth and anti-static glass cleaning liquid under really good lamp I managed to get both parts 100% clean and put them back together. Don't forget latex gloves (the ones that leave no marks) - fingerprints are hundred times worse than dust to get rid of. I have no idea how long did it really take but when I finished my back hurt like hell and water was dripping from the ceiling
Separating lcd and digitizer is not too hard. It was easiest when it was still attached to the bezel. I just pried it out applying easy, firm pressure and taking my time. Try not to damage the sticky layer on the edges or get it excessively dirty - it'll make your life easier later.
I hope it goes easier for you. Gud luck!
EDIT: Make sure that lcd is positioned 100% correctly (there is 1 or 2mm space to move it around). It is a very unpleasant surprise to put the phone back together just to find out that some top or bottom pixel lines are permanently invisible (The Voice of True Experience speaks here:/). And generally - keep the place around you tidy - maybe some containers for screws, parts, tools and that sort of stuff. I am not naturally anal enough to start from this point but found out in the process that this sort of job gets extremely frustrating and exhausting when you get confused, start losing parts etc.

It is major hurt! The TP2 is really not user serviceable! Anyway after reading all instructions I still screwed it up. I should have sent it in to HTC. I would not recommend changing the digitizer on your own.
Everything went well until it came to removing the LCD & replacing the digitizer. I cut the speaker cable, and the LCD just came apart. Luckily I have another LCD, looking for a speaker cable now.

has anyone found any places that sell the lcd and digitizer together for the T-Mobile TP2?

Thanks to these instructions I was able to replace the broken digitizer (glass) on my TP2. Unfortunately the Russian instructions stop short of replacing the glass.
Tools required: T5 torx mini screwdriver, letter opener, mini philips, a mini straight screwdriver and I found a very mini (1mm ) straight screwdriver handy for getthing the keyboard and screen back loose. The letter openner and two straight screwdrivers are only for prying
Here is what I did from the last spot on the Russian instructions: (yes you have to do every step)
Note: Be very careful removing the ribbon taped to the back of the LCD. You have to pry the speaker out ot the case up at the top; don't attempt to remove it by pulling on the ribbon. Once the speaker is loose (it's attached to the riboon, you are ok to remove it.
1. Take a small straight screwdriver and pry all around the LCD (metal back with handwriting on it in the last photo.) There are plastic tabs all around it centering it. You can pry gently against them. The LCD is only adhered with a small gasket around the edge of the glass. It is not glued to the screen as was posted by someone else. It comes out fairly easily.
2. Remove the black tape holding down the ribbon connected to the digitizer. I wasn't able to save the tape but not a big deal. Below the tape is one of three screws holding the buttons on. Remove those three screws.
3. Now you should be able to remove the digitizer. Go slow starting at the bottom. It is glued all around at heavily glued at the top. I had the pry the top away with small flat screwdriver and a letter opener. Go slowly and eventually it will release. At the top of the glass is the speaker for your ear. It will likely come off with the glass. Remove it and return it to the now empty case centering it in top.
4. Using gloves to prevent prints remove the protective film form your new digitizer. There is a lot of static generated when you do this so keep it away from everything for a minute while it neutralizes. Then place the digitizer in from the top, feed the ribbon through the slot and press the plastic all the way around.
5. Replace the buttons and the screws that retain them.
6. Replace the LCD; you can't screw it up the plastic tabs center the LCD. Just make sure the ribbon is at the bottom.
7. Reverse the instructions in the Russian link at the beginning of the post.
All told it took one hour the first time. I got it all together and then screen didn't light it. I had trouble reconnecting the screen ribbon during assembly so I figured the problem was there. I took the phone apart (to the end of the Russian instructions) and reinserted the screen ribbon into the connecter and then reassembled the phone. It took 10 min to disassemble and reassemble the phone the second time although I didn't have to take apart the screen.
So that's it. It cost me $22.00 for a new digitizer and $10.00 shipping, which is a lot better than a new phone if you don't have insurance and the phone looks like new. If you look very hard you can make out one tiny speck of dust under the glass but it's barely visible; much better than looking at the large V shaped crack I had before.

Hello!
I ordered (and received) a screen AND a digitizer. But there's a thin scotch tape that make the screen+digitizer (in one piece) get stick to the phone. OK, I teared it off.
But, how can I replace this scotch tape??? Much less of 1 mm thick, it seems to be made of foam...
Anyone can help me???????????
Please....

Coucou !
Is there anybody out there?
(Pink Floyd, The Wall, 1979 )

I was sent a Digitizer from Ebay (without LCD). Just for everyone elses benefit, there is no way you can remove the digitizer from the LCD Screen. It's glued down. Maybe it wasn't the case with the older ones, but mine can not be separated, no way!
Taking the phone apart is not too hard, the video instructions are pretty good, but seriously, forget trying to replace the digitizer only.
Here is the video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MrTRPTmoxpw&feature=player_embedded
Cheers, Mal.

If it has the same construction as the HD2, you can put the LCD + digitizer in the oven for 5 minutes at 50 degrees celcius. This was shown in instructions by HTC. Then you can seperate them.

Maybe, but my LCD was glued across the whole screen not just the edges. I'd suggest only buying the Digitizer/LCD combo if you want to do this yourself. If you buy both (as a single piece) the job would be pretty easy.

[Q] xperia play disassembly guide?

Hello!
Has anyone seen a disassembly guide / dismantlling guide for an xperia play? I have had a quick look and havent seen one. A video one would be really good and one that looks at the digitizer / glass would be best for me as I seem to have broken mine already, oops!
Cheers

That sucks.
If you have Rogers they have a replacement policy. I would try that before you take it apart. Good luck. I haven't seen any guides yet. It is a pretty new phone.

You have a teardown here, it may be useful: http://www.ubmtechinsights.com/teardowns/sony-xperia-play-teardown/

I have found this, but would still like to see a video if one exists?
http://www.repairyourmobile.net/sony-ericsson-disassembly/sony-ericsson-xperia-play-disassembly/
Cheers

You can get a brand new OEM Sony Ericsson Touch Digitizer Screen on eBay from here: http://cgi.ebay.ca/OEM-Touch-Digiti...ultDomain_0&hash=item27bb11025c#ht_4868wt_905
I just ordered an OEM Xperia PLAY Black Housing Set from them and it's on its way. Funny how those "takedown" photos don't show you how they disconnected the sliding screen from the gamepad base. I got stuck at that part and have no idea how they were able to remove it. LOL

Rogers replacement policy doesn't give you the same model.... They have designated refurbished models available at no cost per person per life... You can only use it once... Unless the customer support was lying to me, that is what she told me.
Sent from my R800i using XDA App

Have you dealt with rogers before? The have no issue flatout lying to your face. I cant tell you how many times I got screwed over by those ****ers. So I get the feeling you'd be SOL
Sent from my R800i using XDA App

The only reason I switched over to Rogers was to get the Xperia PLAY for $99.99 on a 3 year agreement. I've been with Fido eversince and even though they're owned by Rogers now, I can say that Fido deals with their customers way better than Rogers does. When my 3 year agreement is done I'm going back with Fido. I already network unlocked my Xperia PLAY so if I still have it by then all I have to do is get a Fido SIM card.

Xperia Play disassembly pictures
Hey,
I am in the middle of taking apart my Xperia Play to replace the screen. Now, I got everything separated and taken apart except the screen half. I am having problem removing these silver rivets, which look like screws with a covering but the covering doesn't peel/come off. I have attached pictures of these in hopes that someone knows how to remove them.
Additionally, if anyone has experience replacing an Xperia Play screen, I'd love the advice.
Thanks in advance.
McD

Screen
Hi
Dont take the rivets OFF! If you just slide the control pad part off the metal casing you can get to the 2 screws you need to get to.
I have just finished replacing my screen and it is the scariest screen i have ever replaced as you need to go from back to front lol
I have attached a pic of my finished product, sorry i should of taken photos during it but i was shaking lol

Flava0ne said:
The only reason I switched over to Rogers was to get the Xperia PLAY for $99.99 on a 3 year agreement. I've been with Fido eversince and even though they're owned by Rogers now, I can say that Fido deals with their customers way better than Rogers does. When my 3 year agreement is done I'm going back with Fido. I already network unlocked my Xperia PLAY so if I still have it by then all I have to do is get a Fido SIM card.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I desperately hope that you did not get locked down to a 3 year agreement to just get this phone. As fun as this phone is (and likely to be used long past when I get another phone, just for Emulators and random games), it is not worth a 3 year contract. 2, I can understand. 1 would be more proper. 3 years is nuts in this industry. They have made back their offset of cost within 1.5 years usually.

Video!!
Hi
For anyone else who might benifit from this, here you go:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3n5ZfkqhzE
Edd

eddieo said:
Hi
For anyone else who might benifit from this, here you go:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3n5ZfkqhzE
Edd
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for that video link, I think it'll really help other people who might need to do some repairs on their own to their Xperia PLAY. I just wish that I came across that video earlier when I had to disassemble mines, I was so nervous when I was doing it cause all I had to go by where those pictures posted earlier and it left out a whole lot that I had to figure out myself.

Replacing Digitizer
Hello, Flava0ne
Do I have to take entire phone apart to replace digitizer? Is there simpler way to do it? Screen is fine - only digitizer is broken. Can it be removed from the top or bottom top access only?
Thank you

WOW sorry, too many tabs open. Wrong topic!!!
(Disregard this post)

Two questions: How far can you go without breaking a warranty seal and how many internal water damage indicators / liquid sensors are there? I just need to check since they are threatening $300 if they find anything and I work in the cold and frequently see condensation. I do avoid condensation actively and don't even allow it in the bathroom when showering.
---------- Post added at 03:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:03 PM ----------
OK, I went as far as I dared by completely taking apart the bottom piece (gamepad, camera, microSD slot, SIM slot, headset/remote jack, primary and secondary microphone, antennas, speakers, microUSB, etc) and, so far, I have found three. It was pretty easy up to this point and I didn't notice any kind of warranty seal.
I just removed all T6 screws from the back and lifted the catches along the bottom (headset/microUSB) side using my fingernail. One corner should be loose and you can start there and slide with no marring (didn't need my plastic pry tool). I don't know why, exactly, but the internal L & R switches are stuck to black adhesive films covering openings in this black piece but I was able to lift and unstick them without touching the films. Anyway, when you remove and flip this piece over, you should see a white square just below the mSD and SIM card slot. It's actually visible through a pinhole on the other side. If it's pink/red, you've got a problem, even if it's caused by condensation (they will still void your warranty for "water damage"). When I touched it, a plastic film on the back slipped off but stuck back on. The whole thing seems like it peels off quite easily.
Anyway, I would wiggle the power button loose before moving on. Next, there are now two tiny cross-head screws that I used a PH00x50 driver on. Yes, one of them was clearly accessible as soon as you removed the battery, but why remove it until you are ready to remove both? Once those are out, let the headphone jack dangle off its ribbon cable and lift the PCB enough to disconnect the display connector from the PCB... just stick something wide and flat in there and twist. Be careful not to damage the tiny ribbon cable that connects the touchpad area from the gamepad because it still needs to be disconnected. Now, this is OPPOSITE of how many larger but similar connectors work, so pay attention: To disconnect it, locate the tiny darker-colored flap of plastic on the opposite side of the connector from where the cable goes in. Lift it from the opposite side toward the side where the cable inserts. It will stand straight up and then you can slide the cable out. If you have to remove it, the headphone/remote jack appears to work the same way.
Anyway, this should completely free the PCB and leave the gamepad shell attached to the display. The gamepad shell should be free from the front half of the phone now as well, leaving only the sliding metal mounting bracket.
Now, a couple of interesting things here: I can clearly tell that one of the T6 screws by the volume button was protruding too far and caused a visible sliding scratch on the underside of my top shell. It may make sense to loosen these a bit on a new phone before this happens. You can also see if imperfections in the white Teflon sliding bumps are causing scratches on the front (my first phone did not, my second did in no time).
Now, let's go back to the gamepad faceplate. The buttons should easily fall out if you want them too, but I was only interested in finding the water sensors and here are two more: one is right by the microphone hole and the other in diagonally opposite under the Playstation Certified logo. They look identical to the one on the back piece.
I'm sure that there is at least one in the LCD assembly as well, but mine is well sealed and I didn't want to lift any of those silvery-gray stickers covering the screws when I have a warranty replacement on the way. I've gone far enough to satisfy my curiosity.
---------- Post added at 03:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:01 PM ----------
A couple notes on re-assembly:
As expected, it's a bit more difficult, especially because you don't have leverage to reconnect the display when it is in place. The last fold of the cable it supposed to fit UNDER the metal bracket and the slide mechanism doesn't really work if it isn't (a certain panel will not slide back if it is not folded under). I'm not sure how it affects it but it does. You will need a thin, long, flat utensil like a plastic butter knife or something to either A) provide leverage to connect the connector or B) tuck the cable back under the bracket after connecting it. You need to have already connected the touchpads and oriented the gamepad faceplate around/under the bracket, though it will not be secured. The phone also needs to be in the open position. When you tuck the cable under, slide it to the closed position and back. If the cable seated properly, the PCB and gamepad faceplate should sit pretty flat and should no longer be falling off of the bracket even though it isn't really secured.
The D-pad needs to be arranged properly as well. One side is cut. If you look closely, there are three holes in the four inner corners that align with three plus-shaped pegs, so you can't get it wrong if you pay attention.
The power/lock button isn't going to stay in place until you secure the bottom housing, so leave it off until just before you are ready to do that to avoid losing it.
Be careful not to seal dust in the camera lens. Don't forget to put the cross-head screws back before you do the back housing because you can't easily access one. Remember to keep the four black screws by the L, R, and volume buttons a little loose if you had a problem with them scratching the other half of the phone.
Be sure to download the Xperia Play test program from the Google Market and verify that all buttons and touch inputs function properly.
I'll be sure to wear my Looxcie next time.

I feel sorry for you blokes taking apart the xperia
it's going to be a royal pain in the ass. especially when you reach that "point"
the point where you have **** all over the table and you are like god how did i get this deep into disassembly
then the part when you are shaking / nervous about breaking a part, or worse yet. you end up breaking it. i would be real scared lol.
all i can say is go real slow. REAL slow
and if anything wont move. dont force it lol

Hogwarts said:
I feel sorry for you blokes taking apart the xperia
it's going to be a royal pain in the ass. especially when you reach that "point"
the point where you have **** all over the table and you are like god how did i get this deep into disassembly
then the part when you are shaking / nervous about breaking a part, or worse yet. you end up breaking it. i would be real scared lol.
all i can say is go real slow. REAL slow
and if anything wont move. dont force it lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe I've just taken apart too many laptops and gadgets before but I never felt that way when I got the back piece completely apart... or maybe "that point" is only after you get into the front assembly. I did the rear in bed with the screws laying on the covers beside me and didn't even lose the arrangement of a single one.
Anyway, moments after getting my RMA replacement shipped email notification this morning, I dropped my R800at that is supposed to be getting sent back and now the touch digitizer is shattered. I've ordered a replacement but I'm hoping that I'll be sending it back with the original from the RMA replacement. Does anyone know if the R800a or R800at will fit a R800 Z1i chassis? These are all over eBay. Also, is there any tamper seal? I understand that there are screws under the silver/gray stickers on the front piece but those look easy enough to reapply.
Did I mention that they wanted to turn my RMA down for the flaking paint on the front buttons alone? The night before I called to RMA for an alarm issue (two days ago), the battery door cracked right at the pry point. I remove it more often than most because I carry a second official battery and a Sony Ericsson EP900 charger, so it failed under normal wear-and-tear, but they wanted to say that I couldn't RMA for my main issue (alarm dismisses itself) because of that EVEN THOUGH THE RMA UNITS DON'T INCLUDE A BATTERY COVER!
Damn. Sony Ericsson can be picky. I babied the thing and only just now dropped it. Perhaps AT&T is a little too cautious with the terms of Sony's warranty (it is processed through them but the rules come from Sony).

CZroe said:
Maybe I've just taken apart too many laptops and gadgets before but I never felt that way when I got the back piece completely apart... or maybe "that point" is only after you get into the front assembly. I did the rear in bed with the screws laying on the covers beside me and didn't even lose the arrangement of a single one.
Anyway, moments after getting my RMA replacement shipped email notification this morning, I dropped my R800at that is supposed to be getting sent back and now the touch digitizer is shattered. I've ordered a replacement but I'm hoping that I'll be sending it back with the original from the RMA replacement. Does anyone know if the R800a or R800at will fit a R800 Z1i chassis? These are all over eBay. Also, is there any tamper seal? I understand that there are screws under the silver/gray stickers on the front piece but those look easy enough to reapply.
Did I mention that they wanted to turn my RMA down for the flaking paint on the front buttons alone? The night before I called to RMA for an alarm issue (two days ago), the battery door cracked right at the pry point. I remove it more often than most because I carry a second official battery and a Sony Ericsson EP900 charger, so it failed under normal wear-and-tear, but they wanted to say that I couldn't RMA for my main issue (alarm dismisses itself) because of that EVEN THOUGH THE RMA UNITS DON'T INCLUDE A BATTERY COVER!
Damn. Sony Ericsson can be picky. I babied the thing and only just now dropped it. Perhaps AT&T is a little too cautious with the terms of Sony's warranty (it is processed through them but the rules come from Sony).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've always said this phone is cheaply made and now i have more proof
mine came brand new out of the box with a blemish on the screen
I'm not picky so i just kept it.
Its a blemish in the LCD screen not the digitizer or glass
and yeah the cheap ass plastic assembly is not helping either.
they should have used aluminum or something. more durable

OK, so I finished the job. I did not see any more water indicators in the top shell and I did not find a single tamper-resistant label in the entire device. I left the slider assembly intact (I think it's riveted) and I didn't peel the flex PCB out of the top shell or off of the touchoads, but it was what anyone would consider "fully disassembled." I seem to have misplaced my camera but video will be coming when I find and edit it.

Desire Water damaged Repaired but..

Hi Everyone.
My beloved HTC Desire went into a washmachine course (it's the 2nd time)
I washed this unit 2nd time. Yesterday I put it apart completly into single bits.
Cleand the mobo. Baked the PCB's for 185'C for about 7 minutes. After it cooled 1.5h I put it together and all seems to be ok. Normally cleaning the pcb with some alcohol based solution and 'baking' the pcbs solves 99.9% of water damage (I washed like 6 phones already and repaired them this way)
I didn't checked the Microphone however and today I tried to call someone and
the person couldnt hear me. Then I made some tests and it seems that internal
microphone isn't working. ****. That's the first time I got a damaged microphone.
Qestion: where is the Microphone on the PCB? There is this rubber cover thing that connects to a hole in the buttom of the phone - so below the rubber 'pipe' must be the microphone - a 3mm x 3mm metal chip like mount with a tiny hole in top left corner. Is that the microphone?
Can I repair it?
Can I replace it?
Any tips please. I want my phone back to fully operation. It's a tough ***** to brake and it went through hell with me, don't want to swap it for anything else yet.

My experience fixing Xperia PLAY phones.

In addition to the constant influx of iPods and iPhones friends, family, and coworkers bring me to fix, I've taken apart a few different Xperia PLAY phones more times than I can count, so I thought I'd give a few "pro tips" to people who need to know the ins and outs of it. This isn't a disassembly, assembly, or even a repair guide, it's just the stuff I think those guys missed.
First, don't use a heat gun to loosen the adhesive on the front glass + digitizer. The plastic frame wrinkles and melts readily, particularly right under the face buttons.
Second, make sure you transfer as much as possible when you replace the frame. Replacement frames usually do not include the rubber shroud for the proximity sensor and it will not work right without it. I had one phone that seemingly worked fine until the screen protector peeled off while inserting in a pocket and then no amount of clear tape, screen protectors, or Sharpie-marking would fix it. A salvaged rubber shroud fixed it right up. Some replacement frames have a film-backed adhesive for holding it there and some don't. It probably depends on when they were yanked from the manufacturing line, assuming that they are original parts and not replica parts. You also want to make sure you transfer are the inner dust gasket that goes underneath the frame/glass or else things will be filling up with dust quickly. There is no speaker grill and the foam around it does not stop intrusion. A salvaged frame/glass adhesive is likely to allow dust in unless you didn't have to pick much out of it when swapping (usually glass shards). There are also little metallic grounding foam rectangles crammed in the corners that only one replacement frame I've seen has ever included (was probably salvage though listed as "new"). They probably aren't necessary and I've gone long periods without them, but why wonder if a static charge build up is responsible for your erratic touch screen?
Next, be extremely careful separating the glass from the frame. I've managed to crack good ones even going slowly and leaving gaps filled with picks and pry tools. Heat didn't seem to help much and, as mentioned earlier, is discouraged. Cleaning the screen after man-handling it isn't always easy, but don't avoid touching the back side because you will probably need the area to spread the pressure and avoid a crack. I use a levered "mini suction cup" from Harbor Freight on the top side and as many fingers as spread out as I can on the bottom, but the suction cup is near useless on a cracked screen (even tape-coated). I do suggest covering a shattered screen with tape to hold all the bits together but you are still going to have a hard time cleaning the adhesive up. You can always buy a frame with digitizer pre-installed but I know a lot of you want to buy complete replacement housings instead and it's kind of a waste, but at least you don't need to worry about that adhesive (still: don't forget to transfer the other bits!).
The digitizer parts I've salvaged from phones had higher version numbers than the ones I've seen sold as replacement parts and seemed to be more erratic so I prefer salvaged ones. There can be other problems as well. The flat flex cable from the digitizer is supposed to have an adhesive backing that holds it still where it connects to the tiny cable from the earpiece. Replacements often do not have it, which is yet ANOTHER reason to prefer salvage parts. It may not seem like such a big deal considering that there is a black plastic piece screwed down over it to protect it from getting caught in the mechanism, but the connector does not hold on very well and the phone will not boot if it is slightly out of alignment. If you reassemble it and just get a buzz from the vibration motor with no display and no other sign of booting, check this connection (same thing if the digitizer suddenly stops registering touch). Even a small drop/impact will cause it to happen again, so I recommend securing it with precisely cut tape or hot glue (stay clear of the sliding rails).
Now, keep it clean while you work or you will be staring at that contaminate or thumbprint for a long time. I usually wear fresh latex gloves when working on the glass but it doesn't do much good if you keep transferring oils from the rest of the phone. Wash your hands right before you start and clean the outside of the phone. Before you begin, try just touch a used dish soap dispenser with a damp thumb and run all along to screen except the buttons and earpiece. Do it again with just the damp thumb (dilutes the soap that remained from the first pass) and wipe it with a clean lint-free cloth. Your own clean and dry fingertips/palm should readily absorb any remaining streaks/oils. Be sure to wipe down the rest of the phone too and don't transfer it back to the glass. Once inside I use layer after layer of clear tape to lift gunk from the earpiece (no mesh, remember?). Put on new gloves before you start handling the glass after disassembly, even if you were wearing some for disassembly. To clean the back of the glass I put the adhesive between wax paper while I clean using lint-free cloths, 90+% alcohol, and acetone. For the LCD, use tape to lift most contaminates and resort to alcohol + lint-free cloth if that doesn't work. It doesn't need to be too perfect, especially if scratched from cracked glass. Most imperfections only show when it's off.
Hot glue is great for removing adhesive screw covers without showing pick marks or other signs of tampering but you have to make sure to leave an edge exposed so that you aren't just picking it out of the glue instead. I've been getting mine off cleanly without any tricks like this but it came in handy when I was first disassembling one and there weren't any guides to tell me that there weren't screws under the large silver strip (just covers rivets or injections mold points, IIRC). It's also good for sealing off water sensors, like the one you see through a hole under the battery door. There's another one by the contacts on the battery itself, one by the microphone under the gamepad, and one in the opposite corner under the PS Certified logo. I had an AT&T rep tell me that a brand new phone had a tripped water sensor (LIES!) so I would look for ways to do this with most any new phone.
I can't count how many times I've left the power button out while reassembling. It's not usually that I forgot: It's that it falls out while snapping the back on. I've left the face buttons out a few times too.
My first one had the cable folded wrong after reassembly. It still worked fine for a couple years but did eventually require replacement. Once it folds wrong it'll probably stay that way even after correct reassembly (like mine did). Do not try to attach it to the main PCB using a spudger, butterknife, or whatever to awkwardly push the connector down with everything pulled apart. The only thing you need to do is to slide the cable into the phone's closed position, align the plastic posts on the connector with the corresponding holes on the PCB, and then push down on the PCB until it snaps. I'm sure I tried this first back then but chickened out because the connector didn't snap very easily but that is how you are supposed to do it.
Before I talk about the replacing the slide cable, I want to express my annoyance at all the eBay/YouTube/iFixIt.com people who call it a "flex cable." I don't like the term flex cable because generally ALL cables should be flexible and that doesn't distinguish what it is well enough for people looking for the part. Technically, it's a flat cable or a slide cable, though I wouldn't object to it being called a flex PCB (flex PCBs usually have components other than just connectors like a rigid printed circuit board would). "Flex cable" is silly, redundant, and does not describe anything more specific than just "cable." To complicate matters, there are several actual flex PCBs in this phone to distinguish from when ordering the part. Why did so many people start calling flex PCBs "flex cables" in the first place?! In our case the sliding portion is a *flat* cable, so I can see where "cable" was introduced from, but people say "flex cable" for any flat cable made like a flex PCB these days whether fixed or sliding. At least you know now that you are probably going to have to use the incorrect terminology to find what you want online and sift through many useless results.
*whew*
Now, slide cable replacement is easier than it would seem but intact removal isn't and brand new replacements can be defective. It was a troubleshooting nightmare when I encountered a defective one because I replaced the LCD and glass + digitizer at the same time and suspected/checked everything else first, even taking apart my personal phone multiple times to test parts. The plastic part of the connector on the PCB end must be transferred to the new cable and the old one will not reliably stick back down to it even if you did not contaminate the adhesive. I successfully transferred a cable from a water-damaged phone to my personal phone before fixing up the water-damaged donor phone with a new one, so the adhesive on the salvaged part was weak and I didn't realize how hard it was to remove intact until later. When separating the defective new one there was seemingly no place to pry on one end other than underneath the part where the earpiece/camera connector was located. This broke the side of the connector that holds the locking flap though I was still able to use/lock it. I claimed warranty on the defective part anyway because the connector was not needed for proving the cable was defective (a functional cable works with that connector populated or not). This new part was slightly different from those found originally installed in the phone (different colored plastic connectors and such). The second new one I ordered from elsewhere had double-sided adhesive down the middle, a foil quality control sticker, and the same odd connector colors. I didn't think there was a market for replica parts on this phone but it does seem like more than simple factory revisions. Anyway, removing it involves removing metallic tape then lifting a plate that is still adhered underneath with amber-colored Kapton tape. You can see it from the slide mechanism below. I pinch the plate from above and below with two fingers and lift, gradually peeling the tape which I then fold inside and secure to avoid contaminating the adhesive. The cable has a plastic band across it that fits between fingers on this plate. When secured, this isolates the end with multiple connectors from the movement of the sliding portion, so make sure this is in place when reinstalling. It may be best to avoid removing the adhesive backing paper until after the plate and cable are securely taped back down with both the Kapton and metallic tape while the fingers are holding it in position. If you stick it down first and then secure the plate you may find it slightly too long or short to position inside the plate when securing it all back down. To thread the main connector through the slide board opening it may seem that it will only fit by folding the cable but DON'T! Coil it. Without flattening it, bend the connector 90-degrees over from the cable path and then adjust the angle until you have a coil-shape that you can work through with the connector sideways.
I ordered a "no useable parts" dummy phone just for the heck of it and, other than the Sony Ericsson logo on the fake battery door and maybe the stickers that cover the screws, they really don't have any salvageable parts. You can't swap any buttons, keys, springs, covers, etc into a real phone. The closest would be the face buttons. They will fit in a real phone, but they are too tall and put constant pressure on the PCB switches causing unintended key-presses (especially back and search buttons). The extra height easily protrudes out the top and is not the issue so filing them down vertically won't fix anything. I snipped some excess rubber to more closely match the design of the original buttons but it didn't help. I unscrewed the screw in the corner under the search key and unsnapped the bottom edge of the frame from the back/slide board and they work great until the phone inevitably snaps back together. I'd say they felt better then the original with the extra height (I can't stand how close they are to the screen). It's tolerable with ICS/JB's Navigation Bar (on-screen key functions), but I would rather salvage real buttons or pay too much for the eBay ones ($10-$20; very uncommon part; always sold with crap you probably don't need).
I have yet to find a replacement battery door that includes the rubber trim around the speakers and the foam piece surrounding the rear/noise-canceling microphone. I've ordered a few auctions that show them in the pictures but they always arrive bare. You can transfer them with a razor but it likely won't be perfect. Without them the speaker audio will probably echo around inside the battery compartment and make its way into the mic, though people usually don't notice it. Painting on some Plasti-Dip might do the trick, so try that if it bothers you.
Unlike an iPhone with a million different screws, you don't have to keep track of what goes where and everything is easily accessible. Bare minimum to take it all apart: Some fingernails, a T5 or T6 (pick one) and a PH0, 00, or 000 Phillips (pick one). There don't seem to be any tamper/warranty seals and the only concealed screws are the two obvious ones underneath metallic cover stickers on the display/slide board. There are no screws under tape or labels and no water sensors covering them either. All 6 Phillips screws are the same size but you'll likely want to keep the two with adhesive in their original holes to re-use the covers (adhesive usually remains on the screw instead of the cover). There are only two different Torx screw types but it's obvious what goes where (6 stubby flat ones on the top and bottom, 7 long thin ones around the battery area).
There are bits and bobs taped to and embedded in the rear housing including antenna/RF stuff, some more obvious that others. I've compared and the R800x is very different from the R800at even though the plastic frame looks really similar (R800x has a blocked SIM slot, of course). IMO, any housing swap should be limited to the front frame, the gamepad, and the battery door (only colored parts anyway). If you nicked your chrome, hopefully it was on a button or something that can be swapped (springs are a pain). It may be possible to transfer everything but I wouldn't trust it after all the peeling and picking. The one report I've seen of someone transferring between a GSM/CDMA models seems blissfully unaware of the metal wire behind the volume keys on the CDMA model that isn't there on GSM (at least it's not there on my R800at GSM).
That's all my advice for now. If you are having any trouble, let me know.

Excellent guide, thank you for taking the time to type this up. I think a mod should sticky this.....

Awesome guide! Thanks much for it!
@ozzmanj1 Agree, so more people will notice it.

Thanks for help buddy!!!

As for the case of the digitizer, mine has some parts (lower left) that are not recognizing touch inputs. Will realigning the digitizer cable help? I' d really not want to buy a new one right now as I am quite on a tight budget. Please help. Totally in distress here with my very sickly Play.

So, first I want to say thanks for this post as it's been invaluable in my working on my own XP.
I'm in the process of changing out the LCD and slide cable and am wondering about versions of the phone and compatibility. On Ebay I'm finding lots of parts listed as being for R800i\R800x\R800a. Very few parts are listed for R800at (which is what I have)
In changing out parts (anything hardware related) what parts are interchangeable and what parts are not? Anyone able to help?
Right now I'm looking at LCD screen and slide cable, but in the future I would like to change out the digitizer (I read the other page about having to possibly roll back to a different kernel) and perhaps other inner workings of the phone as well. I would just like to know what I can use from other models of the XP and what are model specific.
Thanks!

Arevyn said:
So, first I want to say thanks for this post as it's been invaluable in my working on my own XP.
I'm in the process of changing out the LCD and slide cable and am wondering about versions of the phone and compatibility. On Ebay I'm finding lots of parts listed as being for R800i\R800x\R800a. Very few parts are listed for R800at (which is what I have)
In changing out parts (anything hardware related) what parts are interchangeable and what parts are not? Anyone able to help?
Right now I'm looking at LCD screen and slide cable, but in the future I would like to change out the digitizer (I read the other page about having to possibly roll back to a different kernel) and perhaps other inner workings of the phone as well. I would just like to know what I can use from other models of the XP and what are model specific.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just about everything but the chrome back housing is a simple swap. LCD, slide cable, digitizer, camera/earpiece, face buttons, game pad, slide board, front frame, camera, headphone jack, etc. The only parts tied together for compatability are the motherboard and the chrome back housing and that is because it has all the antennas installed in it. It's probably possible to move all the components but I've never even had to take the speakers out and can't speak to the difficulty or possibility for certain. I'm worried that lifting the adhesive films would damiage the antennas inside. As I mentioned in the OP, there are other little parts to move when you compare the two and note the differences. Good luck!
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

CZroe said:
Just about everything but the chrome back housing is a simple swap. LCD, slide cable, digitizer, camera/earpiece, face buttons, game pad, slide board, front frame, camera, headphone jack, etc. The only parts tied together for compatability are the motherboard and the chrome back housing and that is because it has all the antennas installed in it. It's probably possible to move all the components but I've never even had to take the speakers out and can't speak to the difficulty or possibility for certain. I'm worried that lifting the adhesive films would damiage the antennas inside. As I mentioned in the OP, there are other little parts to move when you compare the two and note the differences. Good luck!
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome! Thanks so much.
---------- Post added at 06:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:11 PM ----------
CZroe said:
Just about everything but the chrome back housing is a simple swap. LCD, slide cable, digitizer, camera/earpiece, face buttons, game pad, slide board, front frame, camera, headphone jack, etc. The only parts tied together for compatability are the motherboard and the chrome back housing and that is because it has all the antennas installed in it. It's probably possible to move all the components but I've never even had to take the speakers out and can't speak to the difficulty or possibility for certain. I'm worried that lifting the adhesive films would damiage the antennas inside. As I mentioned in the OP, there are other little parts to move when you compare the two and note the differences. Good luck!
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you noticed a difference in an LCD screen with a green cable vs one with an orange cable? I have an orange one in mine, and wasnt sure if its a different part, or just a different batch of screens

Arevyn said:
Awesome! Thanks so much.
---------- Post added at 06:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:11 PM ----------
Have you noticed a difference in an LCD screen with a green cable vs one with an orange cable? I have an orange one in mine, and wasnt sure if its a different part, or just a different batch of screens
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am color blind and never took notice but I switched LCD between R800i, R800x, and R800at and they were all compatible. They have no reason to make anything in that half of the phone different, so they don't.
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

narflynn619 said:
As for the case of the digitizer, mine has some parts (lower left) that are not recognizing touch inputs. Will realigning the digitizer cable help? I' d really not want to buy a new one right now as I am quite on a tight budget. Please help. Totally in distress here with my very sickly Play.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, I've also experience same problems as yours... I just wonder is it the flex cable or digitizer....

matfai said:
Hey, I've also experience same problems as yours... I just wonder is it the flex cable or digitizer....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If only some areas are responsive then I'm pretty sure it's the digitizer. The IC likely encodes the output so that all the raw connections don't need to be extended over the slide cable. IOW, the pins that carry digitizer data probably carry encoded data so that it's fewer pins. This means it would work either all or not at all if the slide cable had anything to do with it.
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

CZroe said:
If only some areas are responsive then I'm pretty sure it's the digitizer. The IC likely encodes the output so that all the raw connections don't need to be extended over the slide cable. IOW, the pins that carry digitizer data probably carry encoded data so that it's fewer pins. This means it would work either all or not at all if the slide cable had anything to do with it.
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for reply... So, do I have to replace the digitizer or just realigning the cable will help?

matfai said:
Thanks for reply... So, do I have to replace the digitizer or just realigning the cable will help?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In my experience, cable alignment has also been an all or nothing issue so you probably need to replace the digitizer. It couldn't hurt to realign the digitizer cable first just in case it can avoid an unnecessary expense. That fixed a Cubot C9+ I worked on Saturday (digitizer not working at all) but not the iPhone 4S I worked on yesterday (bottom row of digitizer not responding).
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

stuck in safe mode after replace slider cable(flex)
Hi i'm writing here in hopes you can help me, i bought and replaced the "flex cable" and it kinda worked, somehow it can only boot in safe mode and back, home and menu buttons on the front is unresponsive (i can use joypad though) i've tried opening it up again to check for loose connectors and i even tried disconnect the cable to the front buttons but safe mode persists, i tried to flash several official ftf images and a custom rom to see if it helped, but also without any luck.
I hope that you can help me.
Thx for a nice indepth post

docsmiley said:
Hi i'm writing here in hopes you can help me, i bought and replaced the "flex cable" and it kinda worked, somehow it can only boot in safe mode and back, home and menu buttons on the front is unresponsive (i can use joypad though) i've tried opening it up again to check for loose connectors and i even tried disconnect the cable to the front buttons but safe mode persists, i tried to flash several official ftf images and a custom rom to see if it helped, but also without any luck.
I hope that you can help me.
Thx for a nice indepth post
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you are booting in safe mode, that "menu" button is always pressed. My guess is faulty/damaged flex cable. You can try your old flex cable and see can you enter flash/fastboot mode (test to see is back and search button is working)

Bakisha said:
If you are booting in safe mode, that "menu" button is always pressed. My guess is faulty/damaged flex cable. You can try your old flex cable and see can you enter flash/fastboot mode (test to see is back and search button is working)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Search button is working as intended (also when booted into safe mode) and i can enter flash mode with back button and flash ftf files, back button is just not functional when booted (only on joypad).
I also figured it had to be the flex cable but i thought i was so carefull when mounting it so i didn't thought i damaged it.
The old flex cable didn't give any picture at all, so can't see if it boots into safe mode with that.

docsmiley said:
Search button is working as intended (also when booted into safe mode) and i can enter flash mode with back button and flash ftf files, back button is just not functional when booted (only on joypad).
I also figured it had to be the flex cable but i thought i was so carefull when mounting it so i didn't thought i damaged it.
The old flex cable didn't give any picture at all, so can't see if it boots into safe mode with that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have received a defective flex cable before so it's possible you have also. In my case it didn't work at all (no picture).
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

Thanks for your replies I'll see if I can get it replaced
Sendt fra min Galaxy S4 med Tapatalk

slide flex replacement
hi, its my second time replacing the slide flex cable of my r800i, however this time, my digitizer is unresponsive to the flex i bought, i bought it in the same store where i bought the first one which was perfectly fine before,
my question is does the slide flex cable of xperia play 4G differs to the slide flex cable of the old one xperia play r800i,

dashu31 said:
hi, its my second time replacing the slide flex cable of my r800i, however this time, my digitizer is unresponsive to the flex i bought, i bought it in the same store where i bought the first one which was perfectly fine before,
my question is does the slide flex cable of xperia play 4G differs to the slide flex cable of the old one xperia play r800i,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They are the same. I have also switched then between a "4G" R800at and a R800x. I have also received bad digitizer flex cables that were new. It really is luck of the draw. A lot of replacement parts on eBay are factory seconds, which may have been removed from the production line for good reason. That's why I always order parts in sets of two for anything I know I will need in the future and I always test both. For example, recently I got two iPhone 4S screens and one had the frame installed upside down. Before that I ordered two replacement iPhone 4 30-pin dock replacements and one had a defective microphone. Before that I ordered two iPod touch 2G digitizer/frame assemblies and one didn't work along the left side.
Here I am identifying a couple bad iPhone displays from a lot:
http://youtu.be/TbxzCiGhwPM
I didn't own an iPhone so I had to test them all with the phone the first customer provided.
Edit: Oh! And make sure the problem is not with the digitizer connection under the black plastic cover. Mine works it's way loose all the time and needs to be secured with tape. Even when inserted fully straight and locked, I put it together and find it not working or the display black until I take it back apart and reseat it. It will twist slightly and even the slightest angle affects the connection.