anyone know if it exists? Due to my own stupidity I accidentally bricked my cappy by flashing the wrong bootloaders
luckily for me I actually own a riffbox having used it to fix my previous phones but unlike the others the JTAG points are freaking tiny..... anyone know of any jtag jigs for Samsung captivate in existence?
if not i'm thinking either silver conductive paint or carbon glue or even a etched PCB....
Currently there are none. I've done over 100 Captivates and your right they are easily the hardest I've ever seen.
Proxyep said:
anyone know if it exists? Due to my own stupidity I accidentally bricked my cappy by flashing the wrong bootloaders
luckily for me I actually own a riffbox having used it to fix my previous phones but unlike the others the JTAG points are freaking tiny..... anyone know of any jtag jigs for Samsung captivate in existence?
if not i'm thinking either silver conductive paint or carbon glue or even a etched PCB....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes there is a jig. You solder a pin header to the board. It's a piece samsung cheaped out on... Its the safest way and will prevent pulling the leads off the board. You cannot use pop-pin contacts beause the JTAG points are too small.
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header for the bottom: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/AXT612124/?qs=2rFUEsTwVNwSdqVM5XnLHw==
receptical for the top :http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/AXT512124/?qs=2rFUEsTwVNy9TGVyeT43Dg==
A member on the hackady.com forums made some PCBs just for this.
It's hardly a jig if you have to solder it to the board. Also, if you don't get it right the first time when soldering it, it's very likely you will ruin the pads taking it off to reposition. It's a cool long term solution if you get it right the first time. As far as it being the "safest" way...that's just an opinion.
connexion2005 said:
It's hardly a jig if you have to solder it to the board. Also, if you don't get it right the first time when soldering it, it's very likely you will ruin the pads taking it off to reposition. It's a cool long term solution if you get it right the first time. As far as it being the "safest" way...that's just an opinion.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No. You're wrong on all 3 statements you made. Look at the facts.
The JTAG port is designed to be a Zero Insertion Force(ZIF) header, however samsung did not include the header because it saved them a buck. It's not our fault that samsung cheaped out here.. The header should be on the board like it is with all of the other phones... So, you have to add it. Once the header is on the unit, it's very simple to jtag repeatedly by just applying the socket with wires attached. It's the SAME socket that is on EVERY OTHER GalaxyS phone.
Once you apply a header which takes me 2 to 5 minutes including removing the case from the phone (and at most 4 sockets the first time because you may burn them) it's a ZIF jig. You simple apply a ZIF socket to the top of it, flash, and remove the socket.
If you screw up, you can crunch the plastic and swipe the pins off the pads with a hot iron, or you can just burn the plastic until the pins heat up and then you bring up the whole jtag header mess on your iron.... Clean the iron and the header with flux, alcohol, wet sponge, then retin the board and try again.
The pads cant come up if you're pressing them down. it's just a fact of nature. You've got a board under the pad and you've got a ZIF header on top of the pads. It's simple logic that the pads can't come up like they can when you try to solder a wire directly to them.... and apply sideways/upward force while they're hot.
While I use the JTAG port for other reasons, I've applied ZIF headers 4 times sucessfully, on 4 separate phones, now without a single pad pulled. No experimentation required. it's just that simple.
Prior to using a header, I tried bare wire... It was a nerve racking experience where one wire would come up while another would stick... going back and fourth.. It was like tippie toeing through a glass field.. The ZIF header is more like a planned military operation. Tin the pads, place the header on top, heat it up, apply superglue to the board near the base of the header to relieve pressure from the pads and ensure the header won't ever fall off regardless of what kind of crazy **** I do with it.
Trust me... I have one Captivate I keep in my pocket and the other sits with the back case removed on my bench for reverse engineering purposes.
I've done over 100 Captivates and soldered directly to the board. Also the jack was not included on the Epic, Vibrant, i9000 or Captivate. It's not on ALL the variants by any means. I've seen it repeatedly on the Vibrant 4G and once on the Vibrant but it was a re-man phone.
I've seen you try to say I'm wrong on other JTAG topics dealing with hardware when in fact your answers were wrong (especially regarding Riff related topics). I've JTAG'd over 200 phones now. I've learned my way around this stuff and I'm speaking from experience directly. Your speaking from logic Adam when it comes to JTAG'ing these devices.
Here are my 3 statements AGAIN for you:
1) In the JTAG world people consider a jig to be SOLDERLESS. Nobody would consider a JTAG JIG an actual JIG if it needed to be soldered anyway to the microscopic points.
2) The average person on their first attempt will rip a pad removing that jack if not positioned correctly. I believe you yourself even did it and I know I did.
3) Due to number 2, this is no safer than soldering directly. When pre-soldered at the factory it's great to use but you can't honestly defend it's safer to install it yourself when the average person may fail the first time.
connexion2005 said:
I've done over 100 Captivates and soldered directly to the board. Also the jack was not included on the Epic, Vibrant, i9000 or Captivate. It's not on ALL the variants by any means. I've seen it repeatedly on the Vibrant 4G and once on the Vibrant but it was a re-man phone.
I've seen you try to say I'm wrong on other JTAG topics dealing with hardware when in fact your answers were wrong (especially regarding Riff related topics). I've JTAG'd over 200 phones now. I've learned my way around this stuff and I'm speaking from experience directly. Your speaking from logic Adam when it comes to JTAG'ing these devices.
Here are my 3 statements AGAIN for you:
1) In the JTAG world people consider a jig to be SOLDERLESS. Nobody would consider a JTAG JIG an actual JIG if it needed to be soldered anyway to the microscopic points.
2) The average person on their first attempt will rip a pad removing that jack if not positioned correctly. I believe you yourself even did it and I know I did.
3) Due to number 2, this is no safer than soldering directly. When pre-soldered at the factory it's great to use but you can't honestly defend it's safer to install it yourself when the average person may fail the first time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. It is solderless. Its missing
2. I told you before that I'm pretty sure it was wet super glue on the receptical which caused it to pull up the entire socket.
3. Wait two hours for the super glue to dry
Btw... wasn't it just 2 weeks ago that you had JTAGed 5 captivates?
AdamOutler said:
1. It is solderless. Its missing
2. I told you before that I'm pretty sure it was wet super glue on the receptical which caused it to pull up the entire socket.
3. Wait two hours for the super glue to dry
Btw... wasn't it just 2 weeks ago that you had JTAGed 5 captivates?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I began JTAG'ing them 1.5 months ago. I went public with it 1 month ago.
connexion2005 said:
I began JTAG'ing them 1.5 months ago. I went public with it 1 month ago.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Regardless, there's no disputing that for a first-timer, using the proper JTAG header and receptical is safer. Its the way the phone was designed to be jtagged and those pads on the Captivate were not designed to have wires soldered directly to them. The pads were designed for a 12 pin (16 including securing pins), .2mm pitch, Zero Insertion Force, Dual Inline Package. Recommending that people try anything else is reckless and an inappropriate application... like using a vice grip when you need a 14mm open-end/box wrench.
I'm saying you have mad crazy soldering skill.... better then mine and I get paid to work with electronics.... However, if this Guy tries to solder wires to the board, it will end up badly.
the ZIF dual inline package seems like a damn good idea, thanks dude!
I was trying to figure out how to make my own.... it just seemed so damn freaking tiny.
Is it possible that samsung has alternate JTAG points? Afterall in the event a technician would need to service the phone they can't possibly expect the technician to solder the pad on right? If only there was a service manual available.
Proxyep said:
the ZIF dual inline package seems like a damn good idea, thanks dude!
I was trying to figure out how to make my own.... it just seemed so damn freaking tiny.
Is it possible that samsung has alternate JTAG points? Afterall in the event a technician would need to service the phone they can't possibly expect the technician to solder the pad on right? If only there was a service manual available.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check out The GalaxyS Hack Pack for the GT-I9000 service manual... It's 90% the same as our phone... A few minor changes like removal of the JTAG header, resistors in different places, and the alternate JTAG points were removed from our phone. Other then that, one galaxyS is the same as another GalaxyS as far as major components. http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=14463797
man that connector looks small...... did you drag solder that thing on? Makes me wish I didn't sell my hot air gun
AdamOutler said:
Recommending that people try anything else is reckless and an inappropriate application... like using a vice grip when you need a 14mm open-end/box wrench.
I'm saying you have mad crazy soldering skill.... better then mine and I get paid to work with electronics.... However, if this Guy tries to solder wires to the board, it will end up badly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You told me the same thing but I just didn't listen. I'll take the compliment though. Maybe I'm just "lucky"...
connexion2005 said:
You told me the same thing but I just didn't listen. I'll take the compliment though. Maybe I'm just "lucky"...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wish every disagreement/misunderstanding on xda (or anywhere else, for that matter) was handled and concluded this way. I just want to say thank you to guys for keeping it mature.
Not that my opinion means much, if anything
-Herp derp Captivate XDA app
pizz0wn3d said:
I wish every disagreement/misunderstanding on xda (or anywhere else, for that matter) was handled and concluded this way. I just want to say thank you to guys for keeping it mature.
Not that my opinion means much, if anything
-Herp derp Captivate XDA app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure thing man. In the end it's about getting the OP as much info as he can stand really...
connexion2005 said:
Sure thing man. In the end it's about getting the OP as much info as he can stand really...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Haha, that's true.
-Herp derp Captivate XDA app
My cappy was totally bricked 2 weeks ago, nothing works, no power, no screen signal, just nothing at all; i was made a JIT with the HOW-TOs of this forum and my cappy is back again. Maybe i was just have good luck.
isn't this what the OP was asking for?
http://youtu.be/T7edUXE7jLg
it's for the i9000 but as stated on this thread captivates and i9000 are very similar
im in need for a jtag fix for my captivate that's no longer alive and well as per my sig
The i9000 JTAG adapter for one doesn't work well and two is not compatible with the i897 Captivate. If you need a JTAG fix, just pm me as I can help you out with this.
connexion2005 said:
The i9000 JTAG adapter for one doesn't work well and two is not compatible with the i897 Captivate. If you need a JTAG fix, just pm me as I can help you out with this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
trust me, i will if none of the crazy fixes that have worked for others don't work for me. the problem would be shipping it out to you since i'm not in the US
i am about to buy a riff box but those solder points look sooooo small I don't think i could actually pull it off
on another note i did buy a jig off you back in Jan through ebay, works perfectly to this day.
Related
Ok guys I bought an EVO 4G off of ebay and I've fixed everything on the phone except for the wonderful USB port that fell off.
Now it was a pretty clean break so it didn't pull anything off of the board. Since I'm on MetroPCS I can't provision the phone completely without fixing the port.
My question would be this, since I don't have a micro heat gun to heat just this area on the board, do you guys think the oven trick could possibly work on the phone to melt the solder enough and reconnect the usb port?
Would it mess up the camera or anything? Not sure, I need some suggestions to see if this would be a stupid idea, a smart idea, or should I just cut my losses and re-sell?
I need help ladies and gentleman.
IMHO..... Hell No. You are gonna fry your evo.
I wouldn't resell, but get it fixed. I found a place nearby that put an OEM usb port back on my evo for $35. Warranty and all and I am back up good as new. My suggestion is that you find someone with the tools to do it right - otherwise you could lose it all.
Where is the place you found that did it for $35? Is it in South Florida?
As an electronics major, you'd be slapped for suggesting that.
I wouldn't recommend it because it MAY be enough to melt the solder, but other smaller components on the board could fail due to overheating, and the camera would most likely crack or fail completely.
teh roxxorz said:
As an electronics major, you'd be slapped for suggesting that.
I wouldn't recommend it because it MAY be enough to melt the solder, but other smaller components on the board could fail due to overheating, and the camera would most likely crack or fail completely.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOL yea I figured, but it doesn't hurt to ask cause it does work for computer motherboards
Vyrus69 said:
LOL yea I figured, but it doesn't hurt to ask cause it does work for computer motherboards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I've never heard of that before, but that would in theory work because the components were designed to withstand higher tolerances; that's why the evo will shut off if it gets to roughly 120 degrees [I don't know the exact temperature].
Vyrus69 said:
Where is the place you found that did it for $35? Is it in South Florida?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry no.... SoCal.
As another electronics person its a no, if you put it in the oven, it will fry the camera and such and reflow the solder on the board on all the other components as well, possibly causing even more issues other than just frying the components.
Might have found a solution to the USB port fix.
I'm going to make my own surface mount soldering iron. Since regular soldering irons don't fit in the space, this should by all accounts work flawlessly for this problem.
This should be up and running sometime this week and I'll let everyone know how it comes along, and if it works, I might start up a small side business to fix them lol
Hi guys,
I just have an issue caused by me. When I've opened the phone I've managed to damage one of the components and that cause my vibration motor is not working anymore unfortunately as it is a part of the circuit for it. I'm just about to change it but the problem is I don't know what is the value of that component as I couldn't measure it as it was damaged so much so it wasn't possible to do so.
I would like to ask if is here any1 who can tell me what is the value of that SMD 0402 capacitor ( value in F = farad) - ( see the picture )?
Only problem is if some1 want to check the value it is mean that the capacitor have to be unsolder at 1st to do so. So please, if is here some1 who can do that for me I would really appreciate
Or maybe some1 have the BOM (bill of material) and schemes of HTC One X ? that would help too.
Cheers guys
DAMN! i doubt many people would want to do that mate, bit risky opening it!
Actualy to open the phone is not risky and it is pretty easy.Only thing is to unsolder the cap ad than solder it back that may be tricky and that would need a good SMT experienced person.
I just hope we have some1 like that here (except me lol )
xl VipeR lx said:
DAMN! i doubt many people would want to do that mate, bit risky opening it!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sent from my HTC One X using xda premium
If you get a multimeter and see whether the capacitor is across the power rails if thats the case then more likely it would be a decoupling capacitor that decouples the inductive spikes from the motor when running. I would take a guess that it would be in the order of nanoFarads maybe 100nF.
Even if this component is open circuited that wouldnt stop the motor from working are you sure you haven't put excessive force on the capacitor and it has subsequently levered up the flexible pcb and open circuited a feed i.e. track)from the controller chip that feeds the motor?
For such small work I have a handheld microscope with an inbuilt lcd screen. makes life easier
you need to look more closely in that particular area if theres a minute tear on a corner or 90 degree bend of the flexible mylar pcb
I have checked that under 8x magnifier and I couldn't see any other damage other than that crushed capacitor so I guess it is only that. But to be sure I will check it once again and I look closer on the whole circuit and all the paths
I can't check it at home as I don't have any equip here so I hope I will have some free time at work tomorrow
But thanks fro info, it may help
ikeabuchi said:
If you get a multimeter and see whether the capacitor is across the power rails if thats the case then more likely it would be a decoupling capacitor that decouples the inductive spikes from the motor when running. I would take a guess that it would be in the order of nanoFarads maybe 100nF.
Even if this component is open circuited that wouldnt stop the motor from working are you sure you haven't put excessive force on the capacitor and it has subsequently levered up the flexible pcb and open circuited a feed i.e. track)from the controller chip that feeds the motor?
For such small work I have a handheld microscope with an inbuilt lcd screen. makes life easier
you need to look more closely in that particular area if theres a minute tear on a corner or 90 degree bend of the flexible mylar pcb
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using xda premium
so I've checked the whole circuit for vibration and I haven't found any other fault than that damaged capacitor.
So it have to caused only by this for sure.
So I hope some1 can help me as HTC get back to me they can only repair in their repair center and they will not provide any details about any parts and they can't sell any parts either.
So as usual no help at all from HTC, grrrr...
Their customer service is one of the worst
So no luck at all with HTC customer service as I expected
1st HTC Reply
Thank you for contacting HTC regarding your
My name is Olga and I am a Technical Support Agent for the HTC Written Team.
I understand you are having problems with the vibration on your device and would like to know how much such component would cost.
I am very sorry this has happened and now you are having issues with your device, I have spoke to my supervisor about your query and can confirm that we do not have any rough prices of any of the components for our devices.
The reason for this is that we do not sell the components and use individual parts from different regions. The only thing we can do is book your handset in for repair with us. Please note that if you perform a repair yourself or use a 3rd party repair centre, your warranty with us would be void and in case the phone would need any future repairs, there will be a cost, even if it is a manufacturing fault.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
2nd HTC Reply
Thank you for your email.
I am afraid we are not able to view online content, I can not view the links.
In regards to the components, we don't have any information regarding the components on our devices as this is something that is only available at the repair centre. Each device has a part number assigned, this lets the repair centre know which component and type exactly is needed for the repair.
I am sorry we are not able to provide further information regarding this as this is not something available for the public/customers. I have double checked this for you with my supervisor but I am afraid the only thing he advises is to have a look through the Internet for more information.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So now there is only hope left for me, some1 can find out that info for me
Have you a feed at the motor? Although if it sees the caps open circuit it may just stop the supply anyway.
That's a resistor isn't it? Not a cap.
I haven't tested the circuit with multimeter in any way but it is a capacitor for sure and not resistor.
SMD resistors have the metal contacts only from top-front-bottom side of the component
SMD capacitors have the metal contacts all way round
There are caps on that circuit, some are black and some grey color .
Only problem is that the caps don't have the value marked on the body as some resistors usually have, but normally bigger than 0402 package, so from 0603 and bigger as on the 0402 and 0201 would be really hard to read anyway
backfromthestorm said:
Have you a feed at the motor? Although if it sees the caps open circuit it may just stop the supply anyway.
That's a resistor isn't it? Not a cap.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Might be worth getting a meter on it then, while setting it to permanently vibrate somehow.. Sure they're apps for that.
Unless your positive it is that cap, then id just pop it out and take a trip to maplins. I've soldered SM parts on phones before, it's fiddly but its possible. They were 50 quid Nokias mind, not 450 quid htcs. Fine iron, and don't get it to hot.
problem is I couldn't test it as the cap was cracked on half so no way to measure
There is no problem to solder/unsolder for me as I'm experience (work in Electronic manufacture business for some time )
backfromthestorm said:
Might be worth getting a meter on it then, while setting it to permanently vibrate somehow.. Sure they're apps for that.
Unless your positive it is that cap, then id just pop it out and take a trip to maplins. I've soldered SM parts on phones before, it's fiddly but its possible. They were 50 quid Nokias mind, not 450 quid htcs. Fine iron, and don't get it to hot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the SMD package is brown in color then it will be a capacitor. if black with no marking then may be a resistor or an inductor. if it is the latter then that would explain why the motor doesn't vibrate.
rikardo1979 said:
so I've checked the whole circuit for vibration and I haven't found any other fault than that damaged capacitor.
So it have to caused only by this for sure.
So I hope some1 can help me as HTC get back to me they can only repair in their repair center and they will not provide any details about any parts and they can't sell any parts either.
So as usual no help at all from HTC, grrrr...
Their customer service is one of the worst
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Surely you understand that HTC can and will not help customers with voiding the warranty of their phone? They support the devices as they are sold and if you decide to open and break the phone yourself you're basically on your own. Helping out with this issue would be to spend time and money to help a customer who has already agreed that no help will be given. Not to sound harsh, but you can't possibly expect any manufacturer to help out with such an issue?
Your best bet would be to contact a repair centre, not HTC. Regenersis, for example, might be able to tell you what component that is.
They only cost Like 50 p for that capacitor
Sent from my HTC One X using xda premium
Hi,
Did you manage to get your phone fixed, please give us an update mate.
well, not yet as I still haven't found what component is it.The HTC won't help as I posted before and I haven't found any1 who could.
But as someone mentioned here before that it may be a resistor instead of capacitor, so I've risk it and I just tried to shorten that pads and vibrator is working.
Problem is I still don't know what component should be there and I'm afraid that if I leave it with just a link between that may damage the whole circuit in time.
So it looks I have to live without vibration or send it for repair what I would have to pay for it.
bigoliver said:
Hi,
Did you manage to get your phone fixed, please give us an update mate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using xda premium
rikardo1979 said:
well, not yet as I still haven't found what component is it.The HTC won't help as I posted before and I haven't found any1 who could.
But as someone mentioned here before that it may be a resistor instead of capacitor, so I've risk it and I just tried to shorten that pads and vibrator is working.
Problem is I still don't know what component should be there and I'm afraid that if I leave it with just a link between that may damage the whole circuit in time.
So it looks I have to live without vibration or send it for repair what I would have to pay for it.
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My thread has been getting a lot of hits and HTC are monitoring it and possibly all my posts (I may be a little paranoid). Which I am grateful for as it is great to know that HTC are doing their best to fix the issue and I encourage them to follow my thread.
I will try forwarding this thread to Urban Strata (HTC Rep) and politely ask him if he can help. I will also try asking at HTC for you, I need to ring them next week on Tuesday anyway, maybe I can persuade them to help you, I did help make HTC aware of the WiFi issue and how many people where affected by it, maybe they can answer this thread to help us. I feel sorry for you mate and if I can do anything I will
Don't get your hopes up though and continue trying to find a solution yourself.
<EDIT> I've sent you a PM
Hi everyone,
I am new (noob) user of XDA Deceloppers. If this thread is posted in the wrong category, I'm sorry but I did not know which one to chose D:.
To start, I have a Galaxy Nexus GSM. It is rooted. Stock ROM and stock Kernel.
It is running an OTA 4.1.1 Jelly Bean.
I recently installed a Skinomi wet applicated screen protector on my Gnex. I watched a lot of videos on how to apply wet applicated screen protectors. I am very prudent with applying those stuff. I followed all Skinomi's instructions. I know I did everything right. After applying it, I waited two full days (48 hours) before booting my Gnex back up.
Now, the problem. My volume button is getting weird. Pressing down is flawless, but when I press up, it works only 1/2. The rest works fine. I dont know why it gets like that.
The second problem. I have all the accessories that came with the phone, but not the receipt. I bought it used...
I emailed Skinomi and the seller for help, but no reply up to date.
I love this phone but... this problem is pretty annoying.
Please help me!
Water and phones are not good together.
Sent from my Xoom using xda premium
Winesnob said:
Water and phones are not good together.
Sent from my Xoom using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I knew that, but after reading a lot of success from others, I wanted to try. This would be my lastvl time with wet screen protectors. Too much to worry for it, and its expensive. Any solution guys?
tonytober said:
Yeah, I knew that, but after reading a lot of success from others, I wanted to try. This would be my lastvl time with wet screen protectors. Too much to worry for it, and its expensive. Any solution guys?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
See if you can take the battery out and leave the phone in a ziplock bag packed with rice for a few days.
Or you can try taking the battery out and using a hair dryer to blow hot air into the volume rocker.
Was this a full body protection kit or just the screen? A ton of people have had issues with the power button and volume rocker after applying a wet screen protector, and I have no idea why these companies don't tell you to cover both with a piece of tape or something before hand, as water getting into the crevices of the device is never a good thing.
MMcCraryNJ said:
See if you can take the battery out and leave the phone in a ziplock bag packed with rice for a few days.
Or you can try taking the battery out and using a hair dryer to blow hot air into the volume rocker.
Was this a full body protection kit or just the screen? A ton of people have had issues with the power button and volume rocker after applying a wet screen protector, and I have no idea why these companies don't tell you to cover both with a piece of tape or something before hand, as water getting into the crevices of the device is never a good thing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for a fast response
I will try to put my phone in rice, because hairdryer might be too strong.
Its a screen only protector.
They never told me to tape the buttons! What a good idea.
What would be the worst solution if everything fails?
Is replacing the volume flex hard?
Im so scared!!! I love my phone so much. :'( please help me!!!!
Same thing has been happening with my phone for 6 or so months now. Spilled a small amount of water on my phone. Wiped it off and everything works fine but the volume up button is very finicky, not a huge problem just have to tap up 2 or 3 times sometimes to get the volume on.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Still using your phone like that?
I really respect you as you can use your phone like that. I just can't stand it. Help!
My recent move
I just bought a new flex volume cable off ebay (cannot link yet, don't have the permission). The seller is 123phone.
I am pretty sure that the cable is damaged, and 5$ is worth a try. Does anyone here tried to solder it? It will be my first time soldering a flex cable, but I have already dont some soldering before. Any tips for the replacement of the flex cable?
Thanks for helping guys. I'm really stressed :S
tonytober, I have the exact same issue, only the volume up rocker and it intermittently works.
Did you try to install the flex volume cable, did it work?
tonytober said:
I just bought a new flex volume cable off ebay (cannot link yet, don't have the permission). The seller is 123phone.
I am pretty sure that the cable is damaged, and 5$ is worth a try. Does anyone here tried to solder it? It will be my first time soldering a flex cable, but I have already dont some soldering before. Any tips for the replacement of the flex cable?
Thanks for helping guys. I'm really stressed :S
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Winesnob said:
Water and phones are not good together.
Sent from my Xoom using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well my phone got wet and was laying in water for a day or so ( Just a little pool) And i just waited for a week or something and then it started and everything worked so water + gnex = Nothing bad, but nothing good
Please read forum rules before posting
Questions go in Q&A
Thread moved
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baruf12 said:
tonytober, I have the exact same issue, only the volume up rocker and it intermittently works.
Did you try to install the flex volume cable, did it work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for a late reply. Yes I replaced the flex cable and now it works fine.
I will never buy a wet screen protector anymore. Worriness for nothing!
Replacing the flex is not that hard and can be found on eBay for under 8$ so it was pretty fine for me.
tonytober said:
Sorry for a late reply. Yes I replaced the flex cable and now it works fine.
I will never buy a wet screen protector anymore. Worriness for nothing!
Replacing the flex is not that hard and can be found on eBay for under 8$ so it was pretty fine for me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Tonytober,
I also need to replace mine but have never soldered before. Can you advise how you did it and what tools i would need? is it just the 3 soldering points? i saw the volume flex cable is cheap enough on ebay, its the soldering im worried about!
Thanks
DC
dcsworld said:
Hi Tonytober,
I also need to replace mine but have never soldered before. Can you advise how you did it and what tools i would need? is it just the 3 soldering points? i saw the volume flex cable is cheap enough on ebay, its the soldering im worried about!
Thanks
DC
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Soldering is not hard unless you shake a lot. Lol!
For soldering, you need a soldering iron, some lead and your brain (actually, just be careful not to burn yourself).
Sold soldering promoter could help (it's a paste that you could put on the phone to help the lead stick on the phone)
Watch out to not let the iron on the phone too long (stop soldering every 10 seconds lets suppose, rest 10 sec, solder 10 sec) as you don't want to damage your logic board to repair an 8$ ribbon! :laugh:
So yeah.
Open the soldering iron, let it heat up (2 minutes to be safe and chill)
-Heat up the spots where you have to solder on the Gnex's board (3-5 seconds)
-Apply some paste with a Q-tip or a toothpick on the heated spot on the Gnex's board
-Here's a tricky part: use BOTH hands for this (only "hard" part which is not hard, just be careful to not use too much lead):
One hand holds the soldering iron and apply heat on Gnex's board, while the soldering iron's tip is STILL on the Gnex's board, with the OTHER hand, apply lead DIRECTLY on the spot where you need to bond the ribbon-board with the lead. Just put enough that it sticks.
**Tip: When the liquid lead between the ribbon+board (where you soldered) hides the space between them (like glueing paper), blow on the liquid lead. It will make it bond one shot and Voila, it is done.
Just do it nice and slow if it is your first time. The only dangers:
-Don't burn yourself, don't kill yourself. I'm not responsible for any injuries, or Death. ...
-Don't burn the Logic Board (like I told you, 10 seconds solder, 10 seconds cooldown...)
-Don't oversolder (If you boot up with oversolder you might bond two connections and short your phone's Logic board and... your phone will RIP.
In case if you oversolder, don't panic, lead is like a magnet to the iron. Just take your soldering iron and heat up the lead. The iron will suck it up.
After that, take a damp cloth and wipe the soldering iron's tip. Don't burn yourself!!!
When everything's done, before you mount your phone, test it. Don't waste your time screwing and unscrewing the phone
If the phone works, clean the soldering iron's tip with a damp cloth when it is still warm-hot.
If the phone works, ENJOY!!!!!!!!
Hope it helps. Keep me updated with your phone.
Nexus lover, Tony
tonytober said:
Soldering is not hard unless you shake a lot. Lol!
For soldering, you need a soldering iron, some lead and your brain (actually, just be careful not to burn yourself).
Sold soldering promoter could help (it's a paste that you could put on the phone to help the lead stick on the phone)
Watch out to not let the iron on the phone too long (stop soldering every 10 seconds lets suppose, rest 10 sec, solder 10 sec) as you don't want to damage your logic board to repair an 8$ ribbon! :laugh:
So yeah.
Open the soldering iron, let it heat up (2 minutes to be safe and chill)
-Heat up the spots where you have to solder on the Gnex's board (3-5 seconds)
-Apply some paste with a Q-tip or a toothpick on the heated spot on the Gnex's board
-Here's a tricky part: use BOTH hands for this (only "hard" part which is not hard, just be careful to not use too much lead):
One hand holds the soldering iron and apply heat on Gnex's board, while the soldering iron's tip is STILL on the Gnex's board, with the OTHER hand, apply lead DIRECTLY on the spot where you need to bond the ribbon-board with the lead. Just put enough that it sticks.
**Tip: When the liquid lead between the ribbon+board (where you soldered) hides the space between them (like glueing paper), blow on the liquid lead. It will make it bond one shot and Voila, it is done.
Just do it nice and slow if it is your first time. The only dangers:
-Don't burn yourself, don't kill yourself. I'm not responsible for any injuries, or Death. ...
-Don't burn the Logic Board (like I told you, 10 seconds solder, 10 seconds cooldown...)
-Don't oversolder (If you boot up with oversolder you might bond two connections and short your phone's Logic board and... your phone will RIP.
In case if you oversolder, don't panic, lead is like a magnet to the iron. Just take your soldering iron and heat up the lead. The iron will suck it up.
After that, take a damp cloth and wipe the soldering iron's tip. Don't burn yourself!!!
When everything's done, before you mount your phone, test it. Don't waste your time screwing and unscrewing the phone
If the phone works, clean the soldering iron's tip with a damp cloth when it is still warm-hot.
If the phone works, ENJOY!!!!!!!!
Hope it helps. Keep me updated with your phone.
Nexus lover, Tony
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks a lot for the advice. It gives me more confidence to try it. Really annoyed that i didnt notice the volume cable was soldered onto the main board, i was following the wrong youtube video which was disassembling a different nexus variation
I'm glad you mentioned that the lead is applied to the soldering point, i always thought the a bit of lead was first melted onto the iron and then transferred onto the soldering point.
I'll give it a shot once i have all the parts and update the thread on the results
Thanks
DC
dcsworld said:
Thanks a lot for the advice. It gives me more confidence to try it. Really annoyed that i didnt notice the volume cable was soldered onto the main board, i was following the wrong youtube video which was disassembling a different nexus variation
I'm glad you mentioned that the lead is applied to the soldering point, i always thought the a bit of lead was first melted onto the iron and then transferred onto the soldering point.
I'll give it a shot once i have all the parts and update the thread on the results
Thanks
DC
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem at all. The Gnex should rather be fixed than be thrown away, auch a good phone
Tell me when you did it! Hope you get it fixed soon. If something goes wrong or you have any questions, ask!!! Xda'a here for that.
Tony
I finally got round to attempting this and it ended up a failure
First of all i noticed i only had 2 soldering points (metal bits) on the main pcb board (the middle one was missing) and the new volume cable had 3, so the middle one must have been pulled off with the old volume cable, Anyway, i decided to go ahead and try soldering the 2 outer connections.
1st attempt, i managed to make the 2 connections, although it looked very messy. Tested them and the volume down button was working! unfortunately the volume up button was not. So i heated the iron up again and attempted to apply more solder to the connections hoping this would improve the connection. Result: both buttons not working! the whole area is black now on both the main board and the volume cable, so i must have damaged all the soldering points and broken the working connection in the process. i found the solder was sticking to the iron forming blobs of hot solder rather than where i wanted the connection to be made. i must have been doing something wrong
Hmm i think im just going to live without the buttons now and rely on the volume controls within the rom until the next nexus is out. Might even volume cable and attempt this again at that point.
Thanks a lot for your help anyway, it was useful experience!
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My galaxy s2 took a dump on my fiancee the other day and wouldn't charge, it had been charging with just one of our USB cables
and only if it was held in the right way. we had been told that it was not covered under our Sprint repair since it was out of warranty
and there was signs of water damage to the charging port. that was last month.
I wish i had the Spec sheet that details what should be connected where and with what specifications.
if anyone is able to confirm that the supposive DIODE is a diode that would be great.
also if anyone knows the resistance on the resistor that would be nice aswell.
oh and what pins are actually used on the port and where they connect to(i have fallowed the traces but they seem to disappear after a while.
This is what i'm working on...
Leading up to complete failure:
1. Phone only charged with 1 of our Micro USB cables, previously it was any of them.
2. USB cable had to be propped up and bent in a certain direction to charge.
3. Previous battery failure(puffy)
4. Slight water damage from long ago(16+ months ago) did not show any residue on this particular area.
Complete failure
1. Not charging on any USB(original charging port used, same one i use to charge my HTC)
2. No lights/sounds/vibrations
Hypothesis
1. Charging port is loose/disconnected resulting in a bad connection and/or inadequate charging
2. Water damage(non-repairable Motherboard)
Inspection
1. using a voltmeter i found that pin 1(photo above) was not connected to the board properly, i could get a connection from the top of the elbow, but not at the base/board/resistor connections.
2. water damage residue(calcium), seemed to have come in through the battery panel?
Attempts to Resuscitate
1. cleaned off water damage residue from the board.
2. Re-soldered the connections to the board by adding additional solder.
Issues during attempts
(During this process i had bridged a few connections and had to get as much off and cut the connections apart with a razor)
(this took quite a bit off effort and the soldering iron is not a high quality iron(may have burnt the DIODE? as it is causing resistance in either
direction)
Afterwords.
1. Phone notification light blinks blue consistently, and with every blink the intensity dims more and more until it is unrecognizable
2. While holding POWER and VOLUME-DOWN the screen turns on and says the battery is dead and cannot enter download mode.
3. Battery seems to get a slight charge but not enough to turn on the phone/screen
Get an external charger first. That way you can determine if it is indeed just the port. Although I will say that it is just the port. Because you said it can enter download mode. Just not stay there. I have not seen much info for this. But at least grabbing a couple anker batteries and an anker charger would help you out in the mean time.
sent from my Provari with a mini rda!
---------- Post added at 03:52 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:48 AM ----------
Also if you can I would order the usb port off ebay. Just make sure its for your phone. If you dont have solder wick you should get it. Pretty much just a copper braid that can be used in between the solder and your tip so you can remove the solder. Trust me when I say using a blade on a board can be very bad. There are layers that can be severed. If its severed it becomes a huge pain to fix if even fixable.
sent from my Provari with a mini rda!
---------- Post added at 03:55 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:52 AM ----------
Thode bpth look like capacitors to me in this pic. Could be wrong though. Also in this picture the top one should be making a connection to that leg you said was messed up. Does it still connect? When you get the thing apart again can you get some more pictures? Especially in that area?
sent from my Provari with a mini rda!
patrao_n said:
Also if you can I would order the usb port off ebay.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I should.. i was just hoping i could fix this one in a jiffy xD
patrao_n said:
If you dont have solder wick you should get it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ohhhh... i know. i'm just flat broke atm, i used a few old wires i had laying around(to almost no avail.)
that is next on my electronics repair arsenal...
patrao_n said:
Thode bpth look like capacitors to me in this pic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good call sir. i had no idea what they were, and was testing them for there resistance.
-Quick google search http://www.oocities.org/vk3em/smtguide/smtpics.htm)
patrao_n said:
Also in this picture the top one should be making a connection to that leg you said was messed up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There was a issue and it would not connect from the USB to the capacitor labeled in Green. the connection was severed between the high point of the leg and the soldered point of the leg. Afterwords the leg is making very a good connection between USB and capacitor.
patrao_n said:
When you get the thing apart again can you get some more pictures?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes by all means, this is just a picture i pulled off of google, but i can take pictures when i open it back up. i'll probably do more work on it to test the capacitors(if i can figure out there rating) or when i get a new port to replace the current one.
Does anyone know the capacitors ratings for this section of the board?
a nice data sheet would be perfect but i don't think samsung would leak something like that.
Side note...
I REALLY need a heat gun for SMD replacements xD
Charge dock is a shifty repair on our device.... So much so that I don't even do it. Its about as successful as reflowing a ps3.
Android Tech @ UBreakiFix Pittsburgh
JayDroid412 said:
Charge dock is a shifty repair on our device....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Agreed, i thought i was just going to be adding a dab of solder until it ended up bridging and i had to get all dirty with it.
P.S. my soldering iron tip looks like a jagad splinter of wood because my dremel tips are missing.
also the close SMD's could have been spaced out a bit more... its like they wanted it to be difficult...
If you need someone else to check it out and possibly fix it, I have the tools and skills needed. If you didn't do too much damage.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using xda premium
graydiggy said:
If you need someone else to check it out and possibly fix it, I have the tools and skills needed. If you didn't do too much damage.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's mighty kind of you, but i don't think thats necessary, sending stuff to people i hardly know isn't my #1's option right now lol, but if i do consider it Toast, i'll send you the MOBO and if you fix it you can sell it on ebay? they go for about 50$+, Clean ESN and all.
if i could get your pro opinion, do you think that excessive heat(pencil iron) could cause those SMD's to fry? i'm mostly concerned about the round one with 6 leads to it, i'm thinking its a 555 timer, but idk
Prolonged heat can fry them as well as high heat. Never use more than 25w on a motherboard. I use between 15 and 20w.
If you have Flux, always use it for small projects. It will help keep the solder flowing to where it needs to go and greatly reduce bridging. It even keeps components from heating up too fast.
I am a fairly well known member here. You could ask almost anyone and they will tell you I'm no trouble. I do understand though.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using xda premium
graydiggy said:
Prolonged heat can fry them as well as high heat. Never use more than 25w on a motherboard. I use between 15 and 20w.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i'm using a dinky 10$ pencil from Radeoshack and i only heated the board up for short intervals between letting it cool down, at most 5-7 seconds(very rarely).
what do you think would fry this? time/temp wize
graydiggy said:
If you have Flux, always use it for small projects.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used to use flux alot, but i switched to an Sal Ammoniac block(Tinning Block) i picked the idea up from my old jewelry teacher, she used it to tin her soldering irons for Stained Glass. it works WONDERS! and if i drop a few crumbs of it on a dirty solder/rust spot and heat it up, it eats the corrosion like i eat ice cream .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DQMnu5_eqbs
Temp wise... I'm not to sure. But as far as time goes, I only heat until it flows and lift the iron off. Any longer and the heat tends to transfer down the trace and can lift SMDs or weaken a different solder joint. Prolonged heat will also burn through traces. I learned this from modification to game consoles. Then you have to either jump the trace with wire or pencil a new one. Even a small crack in a trace will ruin a project and is almost impossible to find.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using xda premium
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIT4ra6Mo0s
Time: 18:18
well i probably went over the 2 second suggestion, my tip was too small, and i am not sure how much pressure i put down, probably not too much but idk.... xD why do i not practice on cheaper things???
graydiggy said:
Then you have to either jump the trace with wire or pencil a new one. Even a small crack in a trace will ruin a project and is almost impossible to find.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lolz also the traces on the board seem to "Vanish" beneath the surface.. and they don't re-appear on the other side
Tom.Molyn said:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIT4ra6Mo0s
Time: 18:18
well i probably went over the 2 second suggestion, my tip was too small, and i am not sure how much pressure i put down, probably not too much but idk.... xD why do i not practice on cheaper things???
lolz also the traces on the board seem to "Vanish" beneath the surface.. and they don't re-appear on the other side
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's why they are impossible to find. Lol.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using xda premium
They vanish because that board is layered. If you messed up a trace in the middle of the board you would not be able to fix it. I would take some macro pics inside the usb port if you can. One of the legs inside could be corroded or broken. Finding this out would let you know your next move. Ecen if you managed to perfectly solder everything if there is a leg missing it would not matter.
Here is what mine looks like. Granted its dirty. But does your pins lay down. And do you have them all?
sent from my Provari with a mini rda!
patrao_n said:
One of the legs inside could be corroded or broken
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
True, that was my first check, i've been able to fix this issue before with a needle and or wire to clean/adjust the spring legs inside the port.
Sadly that was not the case, i cut a Micro USB cable up and tested from Mid wire to the legs. the top of the leg was connected to the wire, the bottom(soldered) side of the leg was not. there was a break in between, even though i could not see it.
I was impatient. I took some photos of mine
those are caps to me. It should take alot to bust one of those. I would be more worried about the traces.
sent from my Provari with a mini rda!
---------- Post added at 08:07 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:53 AM ----------
Honestly at this point I would charge the battery somehow. Get everything moved to an external sd card. Then attempt to tin and solder that leg. Reconnect the leg to itself. Do you have a microscope or magnifying glass?
sent from my Provari with a mini rda!
well i wasn't going to open up the can of worms tonight, but here go's...
now i know the razor wasn't nice to the traces, but i assure you that i am 89% positive that i didn't cut any visible traces.
Oh and yes i have a Loop(jewelers inspector)
"Loop image"
Pins look great inside!(camera sees better than i do xD
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21831329/S2/P1020558.JPG
Heres a few pics from the back side
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21831329/S2/P1020611.JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21831329/S2/P1020636.JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21831329/S2/P1020640.JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21831329/S2/P1020645.JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21831329/S2/P1020647.JPG
From the side...
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21831329/S2/P1020613.JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21831329/S2/P1020614.JPG
Corner view...
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21831329/S2/P1020615.JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21831329/S2/P1020623.JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21831329/S2/P1020641.JPG
Top Down....
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21831329/S2/P1020624.JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21831329/S2/P1020626.JPG
Are you using rohs compliant solder? If so you need flux. Some of those joints are cold soldered and could fail. Whenever you can though try what I said with the leg. Goodluck.
sent from my Provari with a mini rda!
patrao_n said:
Are you using rohs compliant solder? If so you need flux. Some of those joints are cold soldered and could fail. Whenever you can though try what I said with the leg. Goodluck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So i will work on getting flux, aswell as rohs compliant solder, im using silver solder. I have checked the connections with my voltmeter and there doing great. I feel likeI may have blew a capacitor, could you check the capacitors ratings on your S2 for me?
UPDATE:
just purchased a new Port just to be safe, there cheap enough.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=111121690476
Rohs compliant solder would not be what you want. I was just seeing what you had. Because rohs compliant takes alot more heat to flow. Even with flux
sent from my Provari with a mini rda!
---------- Post added at 08:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:27 PM ----------
New port would be the best way to go. Its simple enough to fix. I highly suggest solder wick as well. Makes things so much wasier and its pretty cheap. Put a few drops of flux on it. Put the strip on the trace after you have removed the port. Put your iron tip on and watch the solder lift off the trace. Just remember dont leave it on there too long. And pull the wick away when you pull the soldering iron away. You dont qant to solder the wick to the board lol. Been there.
sent from my Provari with a mini rda!
Status update...
I was able to find the old (puffy) battery that i had replaced a while back, and it still had a bit of juice left in it.
I was able to get the phone to turn on and turn back off(due to a dead battery) approximately 4 times.
and now when i plug in the phone it will vibrate and turn on, shortly after it will turn back off if i touch the screen saying the battery is very low.
if i leave it without touching the screen it will have a red charging light, although after 20+ minutes plugged in i return to a hot phone and the same message with 0% charge.
P.S. i have done nothing since i last added solder and took pictures.
Hi all,
My brother recently dropped my prized 2 day old Galaxy Nexus in the toilet and after 4 days in a bowl of rice it starts up fine (although randomly reboots sometimes). However, the touchscreen is being very temperamental. Most of the screen works fine, however the bottom area only works about 10% of the time if I press very hard. By the way, its my first time posting on XDA so if theres anything I've done that is stupid/nooby or whatever please tell me. Its impossible to improve if you don't know what you're doing wrong
I'm running Cyanogenmod 10.1.3 and although I could upgrade, I don't want to do anything unninteruptable in case my phone reboots during the process. My Galaxy Nexus is a GSM version on T-Mobile UK and its one of those limited edition Google ones that they give to employees (google it (I can't link because its my first post) if you don't know what I'm talking about... Also, can you try to refrain from saying 'get it fixed' or 'get a new one' as those things cost money, and money is one of the things a 12 year old boy doesn't have (the phone is my dads old one - he got a nexus 5 recently and passed this down the line to me...)
I'm pretty good with computers and phones (hackintoshed every computer my family own, all our androids run cyanogenmod, built my own webserver) and I can follow instructions relatively well so don't feel you have to limit the difficulty of your answers because of my age
(by the way, we should ask someone here to add a toilet post icon, considering the amount of threads there are about phones dropped in the loo )
Just realized this is in the wrong forum, can someone help me out and tell me how to move it?
freddy362 said:
Hi all,
My brother recently dropped my prized 2 day old Galaxy Nexus in the toilet and after 4 days in a bowl of rice it starts up fine (although randomly reboots sometimes). However, the touchscreen is being very temperamental. Most of the screen works fine, however the bottom area only works about 10% of the time if I press very hard. By the way, its my first time posting on XDA so if theres anything I've done that is stupid/nooby or whatever please tell me. Its impossible to improve if you don't know what you're doing wrong
I'm running Cyanogenmod 10.1.3 and although I could upgrade, I don't want to do anything unninteruptable in case my phone reboots during the process. My Galaxy Nexus is a GSM version on T-Mobile UK and its one of those limited edition Google ones that they give to employees (google it (I can't link because its my first post) if you don't know what I'm talking about... Also, can you try to refrain from saying 'get it fixed' or 'get a new one' as those things cost money, and money is one of the things a 12 year old boy doesn't have (the phone is my dads old one - he got a nexus 5 recently and passed this down the line to me...)
I'm pretty good with computers and phones (hackintoshed every computer my family own, all our androids run cyanogenmod, built my own webserver) and I can follow instructions relatively well so don't feel you have to limit the difficulty of your answers because of my age
(by the way, we should ask someone here to add a toilet post icon, considering the amount of threads there are about phones dropped in the loo )
Just realized this is in the wrong forum, can someone help me out and tell me how to move it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To try to solve the problem you have to disassemble the phone, remove the water that still inside and clean the oxide on the surface of the connectors, because the Gnex is formed by separate PCBs in order to make easier the repair, but if some water goes inside the connector, a shell of oxide will be formed on the pins and the connector can't work well as it should...
The only thing you need is a very small cross screwdriver, a can of WD-40 (That is originally made to move away the water, but it is also useful to clean the contacts from the oxide and of course it can't conduct electricity) or any other similar product with the same characteristics (you can find it in pretty all the hardware store), and this guide Samsung Galaxy Nexus Teardown.
When you get all the spare parts of the phone disassembled, spray the WD-40 on it, in order to remove all the water and humidity (Just put attention to not spray inside the both earphones and the cameras, or you will have to manually remove the oil from inside the earphones with compressed air and clean the cameras with some cotton swabs). Then with a cotton swab and WD-40 clean all the contacts of the connectors.
Now you have just to reassemble the phone, following in reverse the guide of iFixit.
Just check before if the USB port fully work (fast charge from AC adapter, slow charge and data transfer from PC), because when happens to me was the only part that i have to replace, bought for 3$ from eBay...
Don't worry is easier to do than to describe how to do...
Dry Patrick said:
Very useful advice
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok thanks for the help
Oh, if you have rubbing alcohol around, try rinsing the PCB with it, it helps too.
Next time water gets in your phone, immediately disassemble it and rinse it with rubbing alcohol to remove the water, then put it on a dry cabinet(if you have one) or seal the PCB in a box with desiccants.
Beamed from my Grouper