Develop Bugs

[Q] Battery cover making a "popping noise"

So I got this brand new Galaxy Nexus today and when I press down on the cover (at the bottom of the camera) it makes this popping sound. It sounds like either I have a defective device or Samsung has pretty bad build quality.

Mine does it too, I think it's just a little gap between the phone and the cover under the camera hump. I think I'll try to stick a small piece of masking tape on the inside of the cover tomorrow to snug it up.

Oh thank God, I thought it was just my phone. I stuck some paper in there and it stopped.

fubaya said:
Mine does it too, I think it's just a little gap between the phone and the cover under the camera hump. I think I'll try to stick a small piece of masking tape on the inside of the cover tomorrow to snug it up.
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Click to collapse
Fubaya, did that end up helping you? Placing tape right underneath the camera?

3thereal said:
Fubaya, did that end up helping you? Placing tape right underneath the camera?
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Click to collapse
I had to swap my phone because of a hardware problem and the new phone's cover moves a little but doesn't pop and I don't have any good tape so I haven't gotten around to trying it yet.

Mine does it too. It seems to just be some kind of gap back there. I have a Diztronic case now and it doesn't bother me anymore.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using XDA App

Ok guys,I had this same issue. And I fixed it. Here's what I did.
The LTE version of this phone has a small plastic rib on the inside of the battery cover right next to the sim card. I found that the sim card from vzw is just a tad too long and it interferes with that rib. That rib is supposed to hold the sim card in place so that it doesn't come loose. I took out the sim card and filled/shaved the card down by about 0.5mm. This still left plenty of material beaten the chip and the end of the card, but created a space between the rob and the card such that the cover can seat fully and no longer hit/rub on the sim card.
Everything is nice and tight and quiet now. Stupid vzw and their improperly dimensioned cards was the problem.

How to disconnect the Battery (pics)

So, you've been instructed to remove the battery in your Optimus G, huh?
I've had to do it twice, and the first time, I screwed up royally. This time I took it step by step, and decided to take a bunch of photos along the way!
Here's what you'll need.
* T-4 or possibly T-5 Torx bit to get the case off
* P00 Philips head to get the connector off.
* Fingernails, spudger, some little implement.
* Patience.
* Tiny pointy implement strongly suggested (I used a sewing needle)
* Little magnet suggested, or some method to keep the screws together.
Now, Xiutehcuhtli was awesome enough to make a video showing how to get the casing off and back on.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3DPxzH3l2c
Having that little "guitar pick" tool seems like it'd save quite a bit of headache...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Direction references are assuming you have flipped over your Optimus, and are looking at it like it was a compass, so "West" is the power button side.
On the south side, towards the corners are two Torx screws. You have to remove these first.
I found it simplest to start with your fingernails to start seperating the case, and then use your spudger-like device to start popping the hooks. There is no glue involved, so that makes things a bit simpler.
Images 02-05 have the locations of the catches on each side highlighted. Once you pop those, the cover will come off.
Take your time, it's rather annoying, and if you put too much pressure on the silver part, you'll nick/dent it. Be aware that the power and volume buttons will "fall out".
Image 06 is what the device looks like when you have taken the cover off. Our area of focus is right "under/left" of the camera module, that little silver strip covered with blue tape.
Remove that tape. (Image 07) You can save it to put back on, or leave it off, it doesn't seem to serve any "actual" purpose. Obviously, putting it back on is probably the better option, but I mangled mine, and it seems to be fine.
Here's where you need your P00 Philips. There are two TINY screws holding the plate in place. Be damn careful, they are only a few millimeters in dimensions. Remove them, set them somewhere they won't move (your magnet, perhaps?) (Image 08)
Now, here's the "dangerous" part... I used a sewing needle, but as a very helpful individual on IRC put it.
[18:12] <fiddy619> I'm sure if you use eyeglass repair kit screw driver, you'd be good, but however it worked is really the "right" way...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Image 09 is how I went about doing it. I cannot stress enough NOT to pry it up with your fingernails. The solder holding the connector to the PCB is not that strong, and you CAN break it! I speak from unfortunate experience (See Image 12, note the second OG in the distance)
What I did was poked the needle into the center, and the shallowest angle I could manage, and VERY gently pried up a bit... Repeat to both sides, each time prying up a little bit more. The trick is that you want to put the lifting pressure on the plate side, while pushing down on the PCB side.
After a handful of seconds of prying, you should pop the connector off (Images 10 and 11)
Stop a moment, pat yourself on the back!
Now that you've successfully disconnected the battery, it's time to reconnect, and close it back up. Luckily this is a lot simpler...
Click the plate back into place.
Now, I assume you came here because you're having problems. Continue your troubleshooting, being careful of the back. No sense putting it all back together if you're going to need to do it again, huh? The plate is snug enough that it should stay in place for mild troubleshooting.
Go ahead, I'll wait.
Back already? Congrats! Let's close this thing up!
Screw those obnoxiously tiny black screws back down.
If you choose to, put the blue tape back in place. (Image 6 for original placement)
Now, getting the back cover back in place is.... annoying. You need to snap it down, while keeping the power and volume buttons in place. What I wound up doing was putting the cover on the table, placing the buttons where they belong, and setting the rest of the phone in place. I had to jimmy it a little since my power button fell in a hair, but nothing serious.
Xiutehcuhtli had a beautifully simple solution to this... scotch tape them into place. Watch his video!
Go around the outside of your case with your fingernails/spudger/etc and ensure all the catches are in place. I managed it with a combination of fingernails and just a bit of shoving.
Put your Torx bolts back in, and rejoice!

Bigger pictures?
Just in case the included images are just too damn small for your liking, here are the original JPEGs.
It's a 38MB Zip file, containing the above images at 3888 x 2592 each.

You can also hold volume down and power and it does the same thing.
Also the battery is glued to the back of the screen and almost impossible to remove without destroying the battery.
Sent from my LG Optimus G using xda premium

eyeisdasteve said:
You can also hold volume down and power and it does the same thing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wasn't working for me, This post matches the symptoms I was having.
Attempted to LGNPST, and it was "finishing" within seconds. (Logically, I should have realized that wasn't right, but I didn't know it was sending the entire file)
Disconnected the battery, reconnected it, LGNPST again, took some minutes, and it worked that time.
I figure this should/will be a last-ditch effort to reset the device, and it might as well be documented.

The guide worked like a charm for me. My OG is back from the grave, woot! :laugh: :good:

Hey Nericus, sorry to be off topic, but while you were in the phone could you see a SD card anywhere that can be swapped out with a bigger one?

twcrosno said:
Hey Nericus, sorry to be off topic, but while you were in the phone could you see a SD card anywhere that can be swapped out with a bigger one?
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Click to collapse
No worries, I still have the first OG I broke opened up. There's a bit of plastic on the back that I haven't figured out to remove, so I'm not positive, but I don't see a spot. There is a slot on the side with the volume control where it looks like a card could have fit, but there's no plug for it.

Hey Nericus,
Thanks for taking the time to check into this. I think that slot is where the ATT version has their SD card, so it might be there in the Sprint model, but it doesn't function. I was told that there is a way to get to the SD card and we should be able to put in a 64BG card to replace the 32GB card by opening the case. If you find it please take a photo and either post it or send me a PM with the photo. Again, thanks for taking the time!

I really think the one that told you that simply doesn't know what theyre talking about.. the "sdcard" in this phone is emulated, i.e. is a partition on the internal block device.. soldered to the board. They're probably thinking of the att version which has a slot. In order fr you to 'remove' the 'sdcard' on this model (ls970) you're going to have to remove it's entire disk (containing the programming for everything, wifi, cell, recovery, os and 'sdcard'). to do this you'd have to find the chips, de-solder them, find new chips, figure out the pinout, solder them in (hoping you don't bork anything up) then partition them and flash.
Assimilated using the interface that interacts with the advanced internet.

benmatlock said:
I really think the one that told you that simply doesn't know what theyre talking about.. the "sdcard" in this phone is emulated, i.e. is a partition on the internal block device.. soldered to the board. They're probably thinking of the att version which has a slot. In order fr you to 'remove' the 'sdcard' on this model (ls970) you're going to have to remove it's entire disk (containing the programming for everything, wifi, cell, recovery, os and 'sdcard'). to do this you'd have to find the chips, de-solder them, find new chips, figure out the pinout, solder them in (hoping you don't bork anything up) then partition them and flash.
Assimilated using the interface that interacts with the advanced internet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well GOD knows we do not want to go there. Thanks Ben!

Just wanted to thank you for this tutorial. After an LGNPST back to ZV7 resulted in my phone not powering up or responding at all, pulling the battery did the trick and brought it back to life*. For those wondering, this really wasn't that difficult to perform, just heed nericus's advice when detaching the battery connector. I used a needle as well and had no trouble disconnecting the battery numerous times. Thanks again! :good:
* Then it was on to my 6 hour journey of getting the phone back to a usable, unlocked state, but that's another story.

Just wanna say thank you so much for this write up. This is how i had to start off my day, went to frys and got the $15 Pro'sKit for apple products, it came with everthing i needed to get this apart. Thanks again!!!

Having that little "guitar pick" tool seems like it'd save quite a bit of headache...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you SO MUCH for putting this in the OP.... It turns out I didn't have the tool, but I DID have some guitar picks which worked great!

Rocket_Science said:
Thank you SO MUCH for putting this in the OP.... It turns out I didn't have the tool, but I DID have some guitar picks which worked great!
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Click to collapse
Awesome! I have no idea what that thing was... it looks like a three sided spudger...different thicknesses perhaps? To paraphrase Fiddy. Whatever works is the right tool!

Rocket_Science said:
Thank you SO MUCH for putting this in the OP.... It turns out I didn't have the tool, but I DID have some guitar picks which worked great!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought of this same thing after I spent 45 minutes doing it with my fingernails and a pin.
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk HD

Call echo fix -With Pictures-

First off, the motivation to do this came from these threads:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1610336
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1441510
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=21795243&postcount=62
---------- Please read these threads and hit their authors Thanks buttons, because they are awesome! ----------
Background:
I have suffered from call echo on every AOSP ROM I have installed, and even on custom stock ROM's. I have the D30 phone case T-Mobile sells, so I always thought that was the problem. Without the case, stock ROM's didn't really echo (it was there, but only noticeable to those who were really annoyed by it when I was running AOSP ROM's, such as the wife). Also, when I would shift the phone in my hand, the person I called would ask me what I was doing because it sounded like I was beating the phone on a hard surface. It is very frustrating.
I always assumed my call echo couldn't possibly be a hardware issue since I have never dropped my phone, nor been overly rough on it. However, after reading the above threads (including ALL the comments - scary, I know) I decided this fix was worth a try.
Now, for the fix. I take no credit for it as I simply followed in the footsteps of those brave souls who attempted this on the international version of the SII. I also assume no responsibility for any damage to your phone due to the instructions or information contained in this thread. If your phone explodes, fries, dies, breaks, you cut yourself and bleed to death, you let the magic smoke out of the phone, the fix doesn't work for you --- etc., etc., etc. --- I take no responsibility.
First things first, you will need tools (duh), a business card, scissors, probably tweezers, a credit card to pry the back off the phone, and PATIENCE!
1. Shut down your phone and remove the battery, SIM card and sd card.
2. Using the right sized Philips screwdriver remove all six screws in the order shown in the first picture. (The smallest Philips screwdriver I have is a #0 which is not small enough. However, with great care I was able to remove the screws with a 1.4mm flathead screwdriver. I recommend finding the correct size screwdriver before you try to begin.) Remember which screws went where. In case you forget or they somehow get mixed up, screws numbered 1 and 2 in the first picture do NOT have Locktite on them, the rest do.
3. Locate the prying points along the edges of the phone and use your credit card (or other sturdy, non-metallic object) to pry to clips loose. A few of the prying points are marked with arrows in the first picture. They all look similar. I recommend starting at the corner where screw #1 is and go clockwise around the edge of the phone until all but the top edge has been popped loose (unclipped). Picture 2 shows why you shouldn't try to unclip the top of the phone. There are three tabs that would be nearly impossible to pry loose without breaking them.
4. Starting at the bottom of the phone, near the speaker, carefully lift up the backing of the phone. There is a snap between the camera and flash that retains the backing. It is difficult to free it, so work slowly, keep steady pressure on it, work it back and forth, up and down, side to side until it pops loose. Again, I take no responsibility if you break the plastic backing of your phone. That said, the backing is fairly tough and can withstand moderate force (fingernail strength would probably be a good estimate of how hard you can pull on it).
5. There are no wires connecting the backing to the board of the phone, so you don't have to worry about undoing any connectors.
6. The speaker for my earphone was not secured in my phone, so I was easily able to lift it up and clean some of the pocket lint from the inside of the grill and the front surface of the speaker (please be gentle with the speaker!). I recommend you only lift it out far enough to clean under and around it, then put it back.
7. When replacing the speaker, ensure you gently push it toward the electric ribbon connecting it to the board of you phone to ensure it fully seats in the recess designed for it.
8. At this point I cut a small piece of a rubber band, about 1 mm thick, and trimmed it to fit between the earpiece and the noise cancelation microphone, which on our t989 is integrated into the board and is not accessible. There is no way to remove and reseat it like the threads for the international version recommend. However, by placing the piece of rubber band between the earpiece and noise canceling mic they become more insulated from each other, which is a good thing. The rubber was not easy to place, so patience and a steady hand go a long way here. The rubber band is circled in red and labeled 1 in picture 3. The point where the backing snaps between the camera and flash is circled in green and labeled 2 in picture 3.
9. Next I cut a piece of a business card to fit the gap between the top of the phone and the trim surrounding the camera (see picture 4 for the trim). Make sure the card doesn't cover the gold contact as explained in one of the above threads. --- see how I'm kind of forcing you to read those? ---
--- The business card I used was 0.39mm thick. I didn't measure the other dimensions. If I ever go back in for any reason I will measure them and report here, but don't hold your breath. ---
10. I then cut a piece of business card for the lower microphone. This microphone is integrated into the board of the phone as well (see picture 6). It cannot be removed and reseated like the international version can. However, I decided to place a piece of business card as shown in picture 5 in hopes it would help dampen any vibrations in the vicinity that the microphone might have otherwise picked up.
--- I used the same business card at 0.39mm thick. I didn't measure this one either. ---
11. Place the card you cut for the lower mic so that it doesn't cover the solder points for the usb connector, nor sticks over the edge on the right in picture 5 (where the arrow points). The backing of the phone has a piece of hardware that resides in that recess, so don't overhang it.
12. Time to reassemble. Make sure the business cards (or whatever you decided to use) don't move from their positions when replacing the backing of your phone. Place the three tabs along the top edge of the backing into their recesses in the top of the main frame of your phone, then rotate the backing down onto the phones frame. Snap the edges into place, and be sure to press firmly on the camera cover between the camera and flash to seat the snap there. Don't force anything though. If your phone won't snap back together just remove the backing and make sure everything is situated properly (especially the earpiece speaker). When all the snaps are seated, reinstall your sim and battery and make a test call. If your phone cover makes echo worse, make sure it's on your phone. I even flashed an AOSP rom that notoriously gave me call echo.
13. If you're happy with the results, continue to step 14. If not, go back and rethink how you installed everything. Maybe you need to use a more sturdy business card, or cut it to different dimensions, or use a thicker or thinner card. Use your head and think it through. You can do it. Just be careful in there.
14. Congratulations! You did it! All you need to do is reinstall the six screws and you are done! I installed them in the exact opposite order as I removed them (starting with 6 and working to 1). Anyone who has installed a cylinder head on a car will know the reasoning behind this (to help prevent kinks or ripples in the material between the screws).
This all passed the wife test for me, and it helped muffle the sound of shifting my fingers on my phone. It no longer sounds like I'm beating it on a hard surface!
I really hope this works as well for you all as it has for me. Now, keep in mind that I have only made a few test calls since finishing this, but every person on the other end has said everything is crystal clear. I can now run AOSP ROM's on my Hercules!!! No tape over the noise cancellation microphone required!
Again, please go to the above threads and thank those guys. I take no credit for the fix. All I did was provide pictures specific to the Hercules (and maybe similar to Skyrocket????).
Enjoy!

Wow!
Sent from my SGH-T989 using xda app-developers app

Wow...thanks op, but...**** that lol
Sent from my SGH-T989 using xda app-developers app

blackangst said:
Wow...thanks op, but...**** that lol
Sent from my SGH-T989 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's actually easier than you think. The back cover pops right off basically. The hardest part was cutting the pieces of business card to the right size.
And there's no marking or tape that would tell the warranty center you were inside your phone.

This really works. I used a piece of rubber from a bicycle tire repair kit just because I did not want the paper to draw moisture.

Simply flash CM10.1 and echo will be gone. However, big thanks to OP for this experiment.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T989 using xda app-developers app

Ya thanks OP, but you could try to flash CM 10.1 Nightly 2/22 or 2/24 and the call echo will vanish. If not you could flash different radios and the call echo will be gone.

Amanwithnomoney said:
Ya thanks OP, but you could try to flash CM 10.1 Nightly 2/22 or 2/24 and the call echo will vanish. If not you could flash different radios and the call echo will be gone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, but echo was present on every Rom I flashed. Stock Roms were better, but echo was still there.
This fix is for people who have echo on all Roms. If cm10.1 fixes it for you then go that route, but it just didn't work for me. Besides, I can flash anything I want now.

Easier to do than I had first thought , thanks for the thread.:good:

I had echo problems with Groove IP (cell tower calling worked just fine). This was the fix for goove IP echoing as well on my 989. :good:

This is kinda irrelevant, OP, but I see you're involved in Scentsy in some manner. Lol
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T989 using xda app-developers app

Daltonyx said:
This is kinda irrelevant, OP, but I see you're involved in Scentsy in some manner. Lol
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T989 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hahaha. Caught me red handed.

No hate. Lol. My mother is hardcore into it. She is one of the superstar consultant people. I've learned to recognize it, to say the least.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T989 using xda app-developers app

Alarmmy said:
Simply flash CM10.1 and echo will be gone. However, big thanks to OP for this experiment.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T989 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What you and the OP are talking about are two different things. His is a hardware issue for call echo. The CM flash/fix is for the bad call/underwater sound software issue that the noise suppression fixes.

[Q] SD Card Slot Door

I have recently removed and inserted the SD card several times and I now notice a little bit of play in the SD card cover opposite the hinge mechanism. While it does sit flush, it can be moved back and forth very slightly. Is this normal? Does anyone have it where it does not move at all?

Added poll

It depends on your definition of "very slightly". I can move mine very slightly but it never opens unless I use my finger nail.
To be honest it sounds like yours is moving more than mine because the amount mine moves is not noticeable and nothing I would complain about but it does move so I voted that it moves but in reality it is very secure and not a problem.

I have an T800 10.5" and my card slot cover does not move at all,I have to use my fingernails to pull the door open, I suppose how loose it is might opened on how ofter you change your microsd.
At least Samsung gives us a microsd cover, the Asus Transformer had the card sticking out of the slot by a couple of mm, and it could fall out with ease and lost, so a lot of people cover the card slot in sticky taper.
John.

Pleske said:
It depends on your definition of "very slightly". I can move mine very slightly but it never opens unless I use my finger nail.
To be honest it sounds like yours is moving more than mine because the amount mine moves is not noticeable and nothing I would complain about but it does move so I voted that it moves but in reality it is very secure and not a problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think yours may be similar to mine. I also have to use my finger nail to actually open it.
Tinderbox (UK) said:
I have an T800 10.5" and my card slot cover does not move at all,I have to use my fingernails to pull the door open, I suppose how loose it is might opened on how ofter you change your microsd.
At least Samsung gives us a microsd cover, the Asus Transformer had the card sticking out of the slot by a couple of mm, and it could fall out with ease and lost, so a lot of people cover the card slot in sticky taper.
John.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For reference, I have a T700 8.4" unit. The movement is very slight. Specifically, the movement is from side to side on the end where the little hook is located, opposite of the hinge mechanism. I only noticed it by accident when I was using a can of compressed air to blow dust off. You could try that with yours and see if you notice any movement.
I was curious to see if it was limited to a select few units or if this is a common trait.

[FIXED] SD card sled very much stuck.

I have a problem. I need to change SD cards (just a storage upgrade, it was supposed to be...) and have great troubles getting the SD card sled/holder out of its slot.
I already destroyed my fingernails, tried both short nails and long nails. Still hurts.
I wedged a thin slippery plastic sheet under the sled, trying to lift the sled up and then gnaw using fingernails, but to no avail
I overlaid a thin waxy paper over the edge of the sled to get a better grip, to no avail
I tried some tweezers (ill-fitting, failed to find a pair of precision tweezers with something like rubberized tips for better grip) but can't get a hold on the sled.
Alcohols or other non-watery lubricants are out of the question in that slot I think, there's paper(?)
Any suggestions or tricks as to how to remove the old SD card without destroying the hardware? Is the best way to order specialized kit (precision tools/tweezers/whatever) off the internet? I'm pissed off to have to shell out another 20-50€ and spend more time on this issue.
I inserted the original card with great troubles I remember some time in 2018. At the time I already thought that the "mechanism" is a piece of **** and unnecessarily troublesome because spring-loaded eject was a standard feature in the SAmsung devices I had before , but boy, today's in a whole different league of cumbersome. At the very least I know that I'll never buy Sony again if they kept this stupid design.

I bought a used XA2 and it had no SD sled, so I bought one. Problem was, the pins inside were messed up and SD card won't work. This is one of, if not the worst sony SD card slot designs. If it's not coming out don't force it. Chances are you'll bend a pin or two.

bobsright said:
I bought a used XA2 and it had no SD sled, so I bought one. Problem was, the pins inside were messed up and SD card won't work. This is one of, if not the worst sony SD card slot designs. If it's not coming out don't force it. Chances are you'll bend a pin or two.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have solved my problem using a slotted screwdriver, applying downward force and pulling sideways. The sled came out after some serious jiggling. The front is obviously scratched up but the remainder of the sled is intact and the slot seems to remain functional. After putting the sled back in, it seems now to come out normally (still a pain though). I switched the old 32G card for 256G and am unlikely to have to touch this slot ever again, so I'm pretty happy about having this resolved.
Sony is still nice enough to ship security updates quarterly to half-yearly; I hope this continues and I can get some more years of use out of the device.
Thank you all for reading.