For those nerds out there looking for a place to hang useless pieces of flair from their Arias, I have good news! I found the trinket hook.
If you look at the bottom of the phone to the right of the microusb port, there is a small hole. Pop off the case and you will find in this same spot on the yellow frame the approximate perfect size hook for a charm cord. Pass the loop for any said charm/lanyard/weed holder/etc through the black outer cover through that small hole, then fit the loop over the small yellow hook. Snap your cover back on and you are now tchotchky enabled!
Oh boy can't wait to add my colorful led flashing unicorn dongle to my Aria
Related
Ok everybody, I have taken my PDA2K apart & fixed the wobbly screen problem, First things first:
1. get a sharp knife & carefully slide it under the VOID sticker moving upwards very slowly,& you should be able to remove the sticker in one peice,I have done 7 units ok so far.
2. remove three black screws from the battery compartment,& the silver countersunk screw from underneath the now removed VOID sticker,
Then the 2 countersunk screws from the top sides of the PDA2K,now the rear cover can be removed.
3.Three screws hold down the main PCB,looking from bottom of unit,one screw very top right corner of PCB.One screw Very top left corner of PCB.
& one screw half way down on right side near the ribbon cable for the key board.Then remove the yellow tape over the keyboard ribbon cable,Then lift the black clamp on the ribbon cable connector upwards,and put a round diameter screwdriver under the ribbon cable & pull outwards in a straight direction.
4. Extend the screen fully open & carfully lift the PCB up from the left side (OPPOSITE) the keyboard ribbon cable connector,& hold it slightly up as you carfully slide a blunt flat Knife under the 2 ribbon cables for the display.They will just pop off with minimal force.
5. Pull out the vibration motor & microphone from their casing slots (NOT PCB CONNECTORS) & place the main PCB in a safe place.
6. Looking at the back of the front section you should see 2 screws through slots in the back casing,& 2 at the top rear of the display.remove these & lift the display up from the bottom,carefully guiding the 2 display ribbon cables through the slot.
7. You will now be able to see the sliding plate edges & the two white peices of plastic at the bottom of the slider,These plastic peices need to come off in order to pull the slider plate up further and off the upper casing.what ever you do DO NOT lever the slider plate up with a screwdriver or the brittle moulded painted clamps will snap.if one does its not the end of the world,the slider plate side can be re-adjusted slighty to compensate.
8. With the slider plate in your hand you need to get a flat (NON SERATED) pair of pliers & carefully & very slightly move the edges of the slider plate outwards on each end so they are not going straight up.ie Looking at the plate from the bottom and flat in your hand the plate will look like a U shape,bend the ends out slightly away from each other so they sit against the slider clamps with more resistance,Be carefull not to over do it or you will end up with a very stiff display,
9. Assembly is a reversal of taking apart but be carefull to guide the display ribbons into the top hole of the slider plate,in its open position,
& make sure to tuck the vibrator motor wiring under the PCB before putting the rear casing on.Also hold the volume slider in the middle position as the rear casing is lowered into position.Remember DON'T FORCE ANYTHING or your beloved device will get damaged .
DONT forget to put the yellow tape on the keyboard ribbon cable & the VOID Sticker back on the silver screw & you will still have your warranty.
I have done this mod on a few units with success every time,& this should have been done in the factory,I find it a shame that comparing this unit to the XDA1 its not got the build quality that the XDA1 has and for £580 its a shame that the hardware is not up to the quality of the software features.
Saying that,I can now hold my PDA2K in my hands without its display moving sideways & it makes me feel im now holding a solid peice of kit worthy of £580.
PS I still have 2 brand new XDA1's for sale & one second hand one ive been using for the last year, 07958031182 Thanks & good luck........... :lol:
hi
any1 who has opened the pda2k .. is the camera soldered onto the mother board or is it only plugged in>???
thanks
Hi the camera is only plugged in,but you have to remove the wifi antenna to remove fom the motherboard.hope this helps.............
You know what I mean, right? Those 2 holes where you can put a string through for a charm?
I just have a rubber case from AT&T right now, and don't want to poke holes in it.
Sent from my Aria - CM7 Build 55
I've had several cases on/for my Aria, and all had the cutout large enough at the bottom (next to the charge port) for putting a lanyard/charm. If you hold the phone with the display up, the holes are microphone, USB, and lanyard attach, looking left to right.
I'm looking for one that has the holes on the right/left side, but thanks anyways.
As far as I know, you may be out of luck. I can only find snap on cases for the Aria which don't have the ability to. You can however (as was aformentioned) hang a charm from the lanyard attachment on the phone on the bottom of the device to the right of the USB plug. It's as simple as popping the back panel off, threading through the back panel, looping it around the hook and re-attaching the cover.
Sorry we can't be of more help.
I recently picked up a cheap, generic lanyard for use with the Note and have found that it completely changed the way I hold and use the phone. It makes holding the phone a lot more comfortable and allows for full single hand usage of the phone. Also, I have done some drop tests and it pretty much drop-proofs the phone (linked below is a video of a drop test I did). I HIGHLY recommend getting one of these, if only for the increased flexibility it gives you when using it single-handed.
How it Helps Single-Handed Use
Because the lanyard I got has a clip on it I am able to detach the lanyard part of it and just have a little “tail” of sorts on the phone. I almost always have this tucked between my middle and ring finger when holding the phone, as it allows me to comfortably hold the phone without needed to support it from the bottom of the phone with a finger. It is hard to explain, so I took a video of it (linked below). This manner of holding the phone means that the ONLY part of the hand that needs touch the phone is the middle and ring fingers on the center of the back plate of the phone. The traction from the skin on the back plate keeps it from moving left/right, gravity keeps it from moving up, and the string connecting the bottom of the back plate to the tips of my middle/ring fingers keeps it from falling. It basically feels like the phone is floating in your hand when holding it like this. It allows you not only to comfortably hold it and use your thumb, but use both your thumb and index finger for zooming and panning as well! And, if you tilt the phone in your hand, you can reach ANY part of the screen with your thumb. You can manipulate the phone however you like, by doing this, without fear of dropping it because the string is firmly between the two fingers.
(This video is in HD so you can press the 720P button and make it fullscreen to see more)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QMQ32JT3Uk8
Drop-Proofing
The video shows it the best but you can drop the phone however you want and it will be caught by the lanyard every time. The back plate is fit so securely into the phone that it does not budge, not a single clip of the back plate has come undone in any of my tests (and in one of my tests I flung it around in a circle on the end of the lanyard). Quite amazing really, defeats the need for an OtterBox for me.
(This video is in HD so you can press the 720P button and make it fullscreen to see more)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kXFOAuDcmRU
More Pics
Pic 1
Pic 2
Pic 3
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A+ for creativity.
Hey, watched your vids. How are you using this 1 handed? It looks like you've somehow got the thick part of the lanyard up close to the phone in that video...
nice work.
By the way, did you hurt your finger doing this mod ?
copualt3: Thanks!
gerizafa:
Hopefully the linked photo below illustrates it more clearly. I simply tuck the lanyard attachment between my middle and ring finger and it holds the phone.
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h260/piranha_pilot/IMG_0988.jpg
blobotorian:
Thanks! And lol no I didn't, I accidentally cut myself while absent-mindedly taking knives out of the dishwasher.
would it **** u off if the back cover fell off and ur phone smashed?
bamboo12 said:
would it **** u off if the back cover fell off and ur phone smashed?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I too use a lanyard, but have mine attached to the flip case back (also at the speaker hole).
Firmly pulling the flap away from the lanyard, and nothing happens. It's not coming off by accident.
BTW... I have a much smaller lanyard with nice leather detailing. Without ever consciously thinking about it, I have gotten into the havit of leaving the lanyard dangling out of my pocket, and my hand subconsciously goes through the lanyard every time I take the phone out of my pocket.
I plan on using a Nillkin TPU case which has strap holes and an SGP Asturias leather handstrap on my imaginary Note. I say imaginary because it's all just an idea, I might get one, I might not. The dev community is so good for the SGS2 that I'll just miss having so many options and tweaks.
@unsinkable can u post some pictures
I did this exactly, sturdy at first but I kind of have the feeling that plastic grill will break some day.
Still better than having the whole phone break after a fall tho.
Not having included a proper lanyard hook like in SGS2 was a huge shortcoming for note designers. SGS2 had the con of an unproperly placed lanyard in the top part of the phone, but still!
I'm finding it rather difficult to get my lanyard's string through my speaker phone grill.
It is in fact hard, the typical lanyard end-cords are thicker than the space avaialble in the grill, but if you push attentively enough, or use the help of a tiny object like a de-tipped needle, to push the loop in the middle for you, it is then pretty easy to do the job.
manhattan212 said:
I'm finding it rather difficult to get my lanyard's string through my speaker phone grill.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm just remove the back plate first and then tuck it in and out?
broke mine.
My lanyard broke the little bar behind the speaker.
I personally don't think much force was used to make this happen.
It didn't break it off completely, just one side. So I pushed it back in, so that cosmetically it looks ok -but I certainly can't attach a lanyard on it again.
I'll have to find a case/shell with a lanyard loop.
Incidentally, does anyone know if it's possible to get a replacement back panel?
manhattan212 said:
My lanyard broke the little bar behind the speaker.
I personally don't think much force was used to make this happen.
It didn't break it off completely, just one side. So I pushed it back in, so that cosmetically it looks ok -but I certainly can't attach a lanyard on it again.
I'll have to find a case/shell with a lanyard loop.
Incidentally, does anyone know if it's possible to get a replacement back panel?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Metal ones to be found on ebay
Sent from TapaTalk on my Samsung Galaxy Note
thanks for the vids . .
but seems a bit much to wear a wrist leash to carry a cell phone?. .
manhattan212 said:
I'll have to find a case/shell with a lanyard loop.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please share if you do find one. I'd also be interested in a case with a lanyard loop spot!
mcatt66 said:
thanks for the vids . .
but seems a bit much to wear a wrist leash to carry a cell phone?. .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought so at first but it soon becomes 2nd nature (5 weeks now)
zkyevolved said:
Please share if you do find one. I'd also be interested in a case with a lanyard loop spot!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the ringke case in the thin case thread has lanyard holes
zkyevolved said:
Please share if you do find one. I'd also be interested in a case with a lanyard loop spot!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nillkin has one. They're fairly easy to find on ebay. I think they have multiple colors, or something.
Good morning;
So, my Nexus 7 took a swim. Fortunately it was a quick one and I was able to recover it quickly and it found it's way into a nice dry rice bath following.
There it sat for a few days until it was nice and dry. Power it on and blammo -- tries to boot into recovery or safe mode.
Fast forward to my best understand of what is happening -- it thinks the volume rocker is being pressed 100% of the time.
So, anyone have any thoughts or suggestions on what I may be able to do? I guess I'll have to buy some sort of replacement part -- but presumably it's not a modular component I can simply replace.
Think I can just 'remove' the volume control entirely?
StabbingHobo said:
Good morning;
So, my Nexus 7 took a swim. Fortunately it was a quick one and I was able to recover it quickly and it found it's way into a nice dry rice bath following.
There it sat for a few days until it was nice and dry. Power it on and blammo -- tries to boot into recovery or safe mode.
Fast forward to my best understand of what is happening -- it thinks the volume rocker is being pressed 100% of the time.
So, anyone have any thoughts or suggestions on what I may be able to do? I guess I'll have to buy some sort of replacement part -- but presumably it's not a modular component I can simply replace.
Think I can just 'remove' the volume control entirely?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just to be clear we're not talking about the plastic buttons protruding on the side of the tablet. Inside, barring some short on the circuit itself or fried components(this you can do by inspecting points of contact on the ribbon, the inside of the connector and the soldering traces at its end), the amber ribbon consisting of power, volume and microphone can be removed from the bezel by very slowly scraping the double-sided white tape underneath it from one end to the other (if you use a thin blade, make sure you insert it between the tape and the bezel and not between the tape and the ribbon itself).
Once out, you will notice that contact is made when the thin round metal plates are pressed together. There are 2 layers. If you again carefully peel off the upper layer (transparent mylar or film), you can see if anything is stuck in between (water or vapor), or that one plate is depressed permanently that it would make contact all the time.
The rest is just a matter of pushing it back to the normal position and realign both layers. Usually, there would be enough adhesive left for them to stick together without your having to add more.
graphdarnell said:
Just to be clear we're not talking about the plastic buttons protruding on the side of the tablet. Inside, barring some short on the circuit itself or fried components(this you can do by inspecting points of contact on the ribbon, the inside of the connector and the soldering traces at its end), the amber ribbon consisting of power, volume and microphone can be removed from the bezel by very slowly scraping the double-sided white tape underneath it from one end to the other (if you use a thin blade, make sure you insert it between the tape and the bezel and not between the tape and the ribbon itself).
Once out, you will notice that contact is made when the thin round metal plates are pressed together. There are 2 layers. If you again carefully peel off the upper layer (transparent mylar or film), you can see if anything is stuck in between (water or vapor), or that one plate is depressed permanently that it would make contact all the time.
The rest is just a matter of pushing it back to the normal position and realign both layers. Usually, there would be enough adhesive left for them to stick together without your having to add more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the reply.
Yes, the rocker buttons do continue to rock like a charm. I'll have to crack it open and have a look. Thank you for your advice.
Hi all - its been a while since I've done a phone-related tutorial, but this one's sweet.
Most of you probably know that the "last generation" of wireless fast chargers are just as fast as the new ones (convertible plastic/leather pad) so I grabbed one from the local store. Unfortunately, the charging status LED is way too bright and persistent which disturbs my wife in the night and can't be turned off. Not good at all. So let's get inside and see what we can see.
If anybody knows how to post image attachments inline, let me know. Its been a while....
This is what you'll need.
- black permanent marker/Sharpie
- guitar pick/thin plastic prying tool
- fine crosshead screwdriver (this one is use for glasses)
- tweezers
Use the guitar pick/plastic to pry up the non-slip rubber base. You'll have to hunt around for a spot that gives more than the others....near the USB port or LED seems best. Peel this back carefully so it doesn't stretch, and put it aside somewhere clean.
Remove all of the screws (red) from the base. I stick mine to a magnet so they don't wander off. The base is retained by four small plastic tabs (green) which don't require much levering to release it.
We have a choice here. Either dim the LED or remove it completely. To remove it, the small connector to the PCB can be popped. Alternatively to block the LED's light, pop it off the black tab and wrap it in a small piece of electrical tape. I opted to dim the LED instead....
The plastic base we removed has a small plastic lens which acts as a light guide from the LED to the outside world. This has two "wings" which lightly locate it into the base, and it pops out easily using your tweezers.
Use your permanent marker to obscure the inner face of the light guide where it meets the LED. More ink = more better if dim is your game. I just did one quick swipe. Reinsert the light guide and we're off.
Now that's left is to re-assemble everything in the reverse order. Bear in mind the non-slip rubber base's orientation....the Samsung info on the base is shaped like an SD card, so line it up with that first and you're good to go!
Apologies for the smeared photos. It's winter in Finland, and we just don't get daylight for reasonable exposure times....
This modification is entirely reversible. Just clean off the "permanent" marker using alcohol and a Q-tip. I think that removing the LED carries a little too much risk for most if re-insertion at some point is a possibility. These weren't really designed to be assembled more than once....electrical tape would be the better of those two options.
Enjoy!