Develop Bugs

dropped, power switch jammed in, need to disable.

ae button maps power to another button, but because the power switch is locked in the unit wants to deep sleep. sucks
been searching for a way to unbind the power button, but failed.
i'm mediocre at tech stuff at best, looking for a registry tweak or such.
in fact i'm just plain looking for help!
been lurking on the boards for the last couple of years and appreciated all the work you guys have done for my xda's(made them usable for a start!)
taking this opportunity to say thank you.

Why are you going to resolve a hardware problem with a software tweak? If your power-button is broken, replace it! In the wiki section you´ll find a Service Manual on how to disable your device. Shouldn´t be that hard to replace a button. I mean your not going to change the CPU or so.....
regards
jabami

The Power Button consists od the plastic button which is held there by a springy membrane in turn held in 2 slots inside the case.
The button pushes the little switch on the Circuit Board - normally it's not touching it so that's being held in so the switch is always on and the phone won't behave properly.
Try a very thin blade to pop the button back up into place.
Otherwise it's a case off job which is not too difficult although you'll need a No 6 Torx screwdriver and sometype of plastic lever, very thin but strong to prise the case apart.
As stated follow the instructions but beware not all cases are the same so look carefully before you get mad at something......

thanks, that's exactly what I needed, especially the warning about the case difference
phone fixed and i'm happy.
note: the xda orbit doesn't have a seperate camera cover, the back is all one piece.
I didn't want to risk taking apart my satnav just before my xmas dash around the country, but then i remembered i could steal my wife's and i'm due an upgrade, so i went for it.
there will be a slightly foxed orbit going on ebay in jan, just after i receive my upgrade. now i have to decide whether i want the tytn ii or the polaris.......
choices, choices........
Thanks again, for the help.
Silver

Hardware problem (buttons), please help.

over the past few weeks some of the buttons (namely left soft key, up and left) have stopped working, i've tried numerous roms just incase but it's definatley a hardware issue, now, i've dismanted the phone using the diamantos guide to see if anything jumps out at me, gave the phone a damn good cleaning whilst i had the chance, put it back together....but nothing, everything seems to be in order, all components in their rightful place but i still cant work it out, does anyone know if this is a common problem or if theres a fix as i've been unsuccessful in my searches.

actually, i just found the solution and it worked a treat, thanks anyway people.
btw, if anyone would like to know what i did then i'll be more than happy to share the solution.

godofwap said:
actually, i just found the solution and it worked a treat, thanks anyway people.
btw, if anyone would like to know what i did then i'll be more than happy to share the solution.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll be more than happy

please share your solution with us, I have the exact same problem

ok, no problem, heres what i did.
before you start please be aware that this is a very delicate procedure and you should take care as this may naff up your beloved trinity.
ok, i first disassembled my trinity using the dimantos guide located here http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=311463,
now, when you get to the keyboard / button pcb take it out if, you look closely you'll notice theres a thin adhesive plastic cover covering the metalic buttons, very very carefull peel this back (i used a sharp knife to get to it), making sure not to completely remove it, try to only expose the underneath of the buttons in question, you'll see that the buttons come away with the plasic leaving the underneath exposed, now, using a cotton bud and some lightly applied alcohol clean the contacts then when all is done, replace the plastic and make sure its firmly pressed back down you may notice it making a different, kind of sharper clicking noise when depressed than before meaning its worked, repeat for all buttons.
i think whats going on here is the gum or glue from the plastic film has "leaked" if you will, onto the plates meaning theres no contact from the buttons, this would also account for the very slight change in sound when you now press the button.
i found this info here http://forum.xda-developers.com/archive/index.php/t-289737.html

i have the same problem with the front hardware keys. They last around 1 year, i had them changed under warranty the first time but now they are failing again.
Thank you! now i just have check for tools and some courage because i fear damaging my good old trinity.

temp9300 said:
i have the same problem with the front hardware keys. They last around 1 year, i had them changed under warranty the first time but now they are failing again.
Thank you! now i just have check for tools and some courage because i fear damaging my good old trinity.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
....hi to all dear friends!!after half an year of very hard work my trinity has the same problem....only central botton working but,the superior two,works if I do an hard reset!very strange!changing a lot of different roms,from w 5 to w 6.5 the problems doesn't solve...!
- I'd like to make your same operation but I'd like to know first if you too have they working on hard reset before trying....
thanks a lot and merry christmas!

yes, even after a hard reset they work for me, its as if it was brand new, bare in mind you may have a different problem so if your gonna try this, TAKE YOUR TIME.

godofwap said:
now, when you get to the keyboard / button pcb take it out if, you look closely you'll notice theres a thin adhesive plastic cover covering the metalic buttons, very very carefull peel this back (i used a sharp knife to get to it), making sure not to completely remove it, try to only expose the underneath of the buttons in question, you'll see that the buttons come away with the plasic leaving the underneath exposed, now, using a cotton bud and some lightly applied alcohol clean the contacts then
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried doing this but found no plastic cover above the metallic buttons. Maybe it's because mine went for repair with this problem before, dunno.
I don't think i can mess with the metallic part so i guess i'm stuck with this unless i buy a new keyboard.

it's more of a very very thin laminate, like sticky back plastic than a cover, it should definately be there unless they replaced the PCB with a different model, otherwise the metalic buttons would just fall away. Again, they may have used a different version of the PCB. You can actually buy the PCB and replace it yourself. (here http://cnn.cn/shop/p3600dopod-d810-keypad-p-1825.html )

TP2 Screen not responding

Hey Gang!!
My Tilt2 (TP2) was acting sluggish the other day and then the touch screen would not respond to anything.
I did a soft reset ... didn't work or solve it ... so I just went ahead and did a hard reset. Even after doing that I have no response from the screen.
The screen shows up everything .. I can view the time, people calling me but it just won't pick up any touch activity at all.
Has anyone ran into this ? or what would you suggest.
Just need some help !!
Thanks !!
TarkuS

I just got the same problem. Wich rom are you using?

Just what came with it from AT&T ... factory settings back on it now.
6.5 winmo
had never put a different ROM on it.

Your digitizer may be dead and in need of a replacement

I just got done searching something's from google and other people who have had the same problem and tried one thing.
The outer rim where the chrome area is , they said to clean or see if there is crap/crud in between the screen and the chrome area.
I did that and it seems to be working ok right now. Just have to be careful. I used my thumb nail to slide in between that area but you might want to use something thinner to be on the safe side.

Thanks, that worked for me also. bit strange solution but isf it works...

the crud you collected must have been pressing the digitizer down in multiple spots or even just ONE spot which led it to think there was already a "touch" on it.. hence not working when you would touch it else where.....
There's been issue's with cases doing that where they are too tight and the screen is picking up that pressure as a 'press'... it's odd you guys have collected that much stuff to make the screen act funny though... messy pockets for sure!

Aaron McCarthy said:
the crud you collected must have been pressing the digitizer down in multiple spots or even just ONE spot which led it to think there was already a "touch" on it.. hence not working when you would touch it else where.....
There's been issue's with cases doing that where they are too tight and the screen is picking up that pressure as a 'press'... it's odd you guys have collected that much stuff to make the screen act funny though... messy pockets for sure!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

unfarking believable
I'm not believing this..but it worked. Thanks for posting this. I was getting quite desperate!

TP2 screen not responding.
Thank you. Cleaning around chrome area worked, but I lifted the plastic contact a bit, so future users of this method should be careful. The contact lifted above the buttons on the bottom of screen, so I will have to be cautious not to get dirt in further.

different camera software

Is there other camera software. My camera is barley passable. There is way too long of a delay till it actually snaps a picture by the time it does the subject has moved and most of the time just comes out blurry. With video if you pan even slowly its also blurry. Is this a hardware issue in which case were stuck or is it software in whcih case is there an alternate. Ive searched and found none. I read the posts about the plastic piece and was thiking of removing it because there is an improvement but what about dust getting into other plastic part on the lens which seems harder to clean. Thanks for any help.

swaters3 said:
I read the posts about the plastic piece and was thiking of removing it because there is an improvement but what about dust getting into other plastic part on the lens which seems harder to clean. Thanks for any help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which version of the Rhodium have you got?
I have a European GSM version, and the back cover has a hole in it and there's no extra clear plastic piece. Dust does sometimes get in, but nothing that a quick wipe with a microfibre cloth doesn't solve.

I have the US sprint cdma version.

Does that have the plastic on the back battery cover? I think the T-Mobile version had, but not sure about the Sprint one.
Anyway if there is a plastic piece on the battery cover, then removing might give you a bit of a better picture.
Also you can try the advice here:
http://mobilitydigest.com/decrease-the-blur-of-your-camera-really/
It works for some other HTC models (Fuze and Touch HD) and the brightness tweak seemed to work on my Touch Pro 2.
Finally, I don't know of any alternative camera apps. I've flashed a custom ROM on my phone which has an updated HTC camera app. The response is fine, although pictures can be a bit grainy (which is a kind of pay-off).

thanks for the reply. im not sure about taking off the plastic altough i knoow it would help. im nervous about dust getting stuff getting in. Ill have to read about what others said about that. I read the link you sent and it seems to have really helped. Im not sure about one thing though:
To enable the frames per second on your
camera just make this tweak (click for original posting): HKLM/Software/HTC/Camera/
Common and change EnableFrameRateInfo to
1
What does he mean and how do i do that?
Thanks again
Steve

Wow my first post...anyway, both BSB Tweeks and Advance Config let you adjust your camera settings without having to do any registry changes. Hope that helps, I love my camera now

swaters3 said:
thanks for the reply. im not sure about taking off the plastic altough i knoow it would help. im nervous about dust getting stuff getting in. Ill have to read about what others said about that. I read the link you sent and it seems to have really helped. Im not sure about one thing though:
To enable the frames per second on your
camera just make this tweak (click for original posting): HKLM/Software/HTC/Camera/
Common and change EnableFrameRateInfo to
1
What does he mean and how do i do that?
Thanks again
Steve
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It means change a registry key, but registry editing can be messy if you're not sure what you're doing, so always back-up if you do make changes. As cgonzgo says there are apps that can do the changes behind the scenes for you.
The thread on xda-developers for the Advanced Configuration Tool is here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=418151
As to the specific key for displaying the frame rate information, this can be useful but not strictly necessary. As the article stated, just waving your hand in front of the camera to check for blurriness can be a quick-and-dirty way of seeing the difference.

thanks. I downloaded advanced configuration and made the changes and there is an improvment.

No problem. I'm glad it worked out for you.

How to disconnect the Battery (pics)

So, you've been instructed to remove the battery in your Optimus G, huh?
I've had to do it twice, and the first time, I screwed up royally. This time I took it step by step, and decided to take a bunch of photos along the way!
Here's what you'll need.
* T-4 or possibly T-5 Torx bit to get the case off
* P00 Philips head to get the connector off.
* Fingernails, spudger, some little implement.
* Patience.
* Tiny pointy implement strongly suggested (I used a sewing needle)
* Little magnet suggested, or some method to keep the screws together.
Now, Xiutehcuhtli was awesome enough to make a video showing how to get the casing off and back on.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3DPxzH3l2c
Having that little "guitar pick" tool seems like it'd save quite a bit of headache...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Direction references are assuming you have flipped over your Optimus, and are looking at it like it was a compass, so "West" is the power button side.
On the south side, towards the corners are two Torx screws. You have to remove these first.
I found it simplest to start with your fingernails to start seperating the case, and then use your spudger-like device to start popping the hooks. There is no glue involved, so that makes things a bit simpler.
Images 02-05 have the locations of the catches on each side highlighted. Once you pop those, the cover will come off.
Take your time, it's rather annoying, and if you put too much pressure on the silver part, you'll nick/dent it. Be aware that the power and volume buttons will "fall out".
Image 06 is what the device looks like when you have taken the cover off. Our area of focus is right "under/left" of the camera module, that little silver strip covered with blue tape.
Remove that tape. (Image 07) You can save it to put back on, or leave it off, it doesn't seem to serve any "actual" purpose. Obviously, putting it back on is probably the better option, but I mangled mine, and it seems to be fine.
Here's where you need your P00 Philips. There are two TINY screws holding the plate in place. Be damn careful, they are only a few millimeters in dimensions. Remove them, set them somewhere they won't move (your magnet, perhaps?) (Image 08)
Now, here's the "dangerous" part... I used a sewing needle, but as a very helpful individual on IRC put it.
[18:12] <fiddy619> I'm sure if you use eyeglass repair kit screw driver, you'd be good, but however it worked is really the "right" way...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Image 09 is how I went about doing it. I cannot stress enough NOT to pry it up with your fingernails. The solder holding the connector to the PCB is not that strong, and you CAN break it! I speak from unfortunate experience (See Image 12, note the second OG in the distance)
What I did was poked the needle into the center, and the shallowest angle I could manage, and VERY gently pried up a bit... Repeat to both sides, each time prying up a little bit more. The trick is that you want to put the lifting pressure on the plate side, while pushing down on the PCB side.
After a handful of seconds of prying, you should pop the connector off (Images 10 and 11)
Stop a moment, pat yourself on the back!
Now that you've successfully disconnected the battery, it's time to reconnect, and close it back up. Luckily this is a lot simpler...
Click the plate back into place.
Now, I assume you came here because you're having problems. Continue your troubleshooting, being careful of the back. No sense putting it all back together if you're going to need to do it again, huh? The plate is snug enough that it should stay in place for mild troubleshooting.
Go ahead, I'll wait.
Back already? Congrats! Let's close this thing up!
Screw those obnoxiously tiny black screws back down.
If you choose to, put the blue tape back in place. (Image 6 for original placement)
Now, getting the back cover back in place is.... annoying. You need to snap it down, while keeping the power and volume buttons in place. What I wound up doing was putting the cover on the table, placing the buttons where they belong, and setting the rest of the phone in place. I had to jimmy it a little since my power button fell in a hair, but nothing serious.
Xiutehcuhtli had a beautifully simple solution to this... scotch tape them into place. Watch his video!
Go around the outside of your case with your fingernails/spudger/etc and ensure all the catches are in place. I managed it with a combination of fingernails and just a bit of shoving.
Put your Torx bolts back in, and rejoice!

Bigger pictures?
Just in case the included images are just too damn small for your liking, here are the original JPEGs.
It's a 38MB Zip file, containing the above images at 3888 x 2592 each.

You can also hold volume down and power and it does the same thing.
Also the battery is glued to the back of the screen and almost impossible to remove without destroying the battery.
Sent from my LG Optimus G using xda premium

eyeisdasteve said:
You can also hold volume down and power and it does the same thing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wasn't working for me, This post matches the symptoms I was having.
Attempted to LGNPST, and it was "finishing" within seconds. (Logically, I should have realized that wasn't right, but I didn't know it was sending the entire file)
Disconnected the battery, reconnected it, LGNPST again, took some minutes, and it worked that time.
I figure this should/will be a last-ditch effort to reset the device, and it might as well be documented.

The guide worked like a charm for me. My OG is back from the grave, woot! :laugh: :good:

Hey Nericus, sorry to be off topic, but while you were in the phone could you see a SD card anywhere that can be swapped out with a bigger one?

twcrosno said:
Hey Nericus, sorry to be off topic, but while you were in the phone could you see a SD card anywhere that can be swapped out with a bigger one?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No worries, I still have the first OG I broke opened up. There's a bit of plastic on the back that I haven't figured out to remove, so I'm not positive, but I don't see a spot. There is a slot on the side with the volume control where it looks like a card could have fit, but there's no plug for it.

Hey Nericus,
Thanks for taking the time to check into this. I think that slot is where the ATT version has their SD card, so it might be there in the Sprint model, but it doesn't function. I was told that there is a way to get to the SD card and we should be able to put in a 64BG card to replace the 32GB card by opening the case. If you find it please take a photo and either post it or send me a PM with the photo. Again, thanks for taking the time!

I really think the one that told you that simply doesn't know what theyre talking about.. the "sdcard" in this phone is emulated, i.e. is a partition on the internal block device.. soldered to the board. They're probably thinking of the att version which has a slot. In order fr you to 'remove' the 'sdcard' on this model (ls970) you're going to have to remove it's entire disk (containing the programming for everything, wifi, cell, recovery, os and 'sdcard'). to do this you'd have to find the chips, de-solder them, find new chips, figure out the pinout, solder them in (hoping you don't bork anything up) then partition them and flash.
Assimilated using the interface that interacts with the advanced internet.

benmatlock said:
I really think the one that told you that simply doesn't know what theyre talking about.. the "sdcard" in this phone is emulated, i.e. is a partition on the internal block device.. soldered to the board. They're probably thinking of the att version which has a slot. In order fr you to 'remove' the 'sdcard' on this model (ls970) you're going to have to remove it's entire disk (containing the programming for everything, wifi, cell, recovery, os and 'sdcard'). to do this you'd have to find the chips, de-solder them, find new chips, figure out the pinout, solder them in (hoping you don't bork anything up) then partition them and flash.
Assimilated using the interface that interacts with the advanced internet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well GOD knows we do not want to go there. Thanks Ben!

Just wanted to thank you for this tutorial. After an LGNPST back to ZV7 resulted in my phone not powering up or responding at all, pulling the battery did the trick and brought it back to life*. For those wondering, this really wasn't that difficult to perform, just heed nericus's advice when detaching the battery connector. I used a needle as well and had no trouble disconnecting the battery numerous times. Thanks again! :good:
* Then it was on to my 6 hour journey of getting the phone back to a usable, unlocked state, but that's another story.

Just wanna say thank you so much for this write up. This is how i had to start off my day, went to frys and got the $15 Pro'sKit for apple products, it came with everthing i needed to get this apart. Thanks again!!!

Having that little "guitar pick" tool seems like it'd save quite a bit of headache...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you SO MUCH for putting this in the OP.... It turns out I didn't have the tool, but I DID have some guitar picks which worked great!

Rocket_Science said:
Thank you SO MUCH for putting this in the OP.... It turns out I didn't have the tool, but I DID have some guitar picks which worked great!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome! I have no idea what that thing was... it looks like a three sided spudger...different thicknesses perhaps? To paraphrase Fiddy. Whatever works is the right tool!

Rocket_Science said:
Thank you SO MUCH for putting this in the OP.... It turns out I didn't have the tool, but I DID have some guitar picks which worked great!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought of this same thing after I spent 45 minutes doing it with my fingernails and a pin.
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk HD