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Any adaptors that will allow me to use proper 3.5 inch headphone jack in place of the mini USB ones ( i dont like the in ear phones) checked ebay and couldnt see anything?
you want get one of these http://www.expansys.com/p.aspx?i=142090 - Mike
Ouch, that thing is both horribly badly designed and prohibitively expensive- it's going to stick out what looks like an inch by itself, most headphone plugs will add another inch on top of that- I need something that fits flush with the bottom of the phone (comes out at a right angle) AND supplies an input for the charger. One can only dream!
The orbit would make a great on-mains Wifi internet radio if such a gubbin existed- hook up some speakers, start TCPMP, sorted!
in which case if you don't like wires stop messing around and get a set of A2DP compatible headphones - the quality is very good, but far more costly than a cable addaptor - the choice is yours - Mike
Might have been worth while if I didn't use an iPod for all my portable audio needs- have you seen any A2DP compatible speakers around?
Looks like there are hacks out there, but no official products, the combination really would just turn the Orbit into an incredibly expensive Wifi radio! But where's the fun in just going out and buying a proper one!
Have a look at the products made by Parrot there are a few Bluetooth audio add on boxes, I fail to see the relevance to WiFi?? as the A2DP profile is Bluetooth - it even works on the T-Mobile MDA-CIII which has no WiFi - Mike
I say wifi radio because I listen to internet radio stations around the house using the Orbit, and the ol' tinternet comes via the wifi doohickey!
A2DP is, of course, a bluetooth profile and would be the method over which I get decent sounding audio from the Orbit to some speakers whilst still having the Orbit plugged into mains so the battery doesn't get sucked dry... that said I think the Orbit will last a good few hours streaming internet radio, although I have yet to put that to the test.
My other solution would be, as mentioned above, an adaptor that allows both the charger AND headset to be plugged in- I can't see this as being technically impossible.
With a brief cursory investigation I have discovered, I think, that the headset uses a proprietary 6-pin connection on the opposite side of the mini-usb connector. The headphones do not use the 4-pin standard mini-usb connector on the other side, but a connector that uses both should be reasonably simple to produce. Ergo it should be childs play for a third party to produce an Artemis dock that contains not only a connection to USB but a standard 3.5mm amplified microphone socket alongside a standard 3.5mm amplified stero audio jack... not to mention a button on the front of the dock for picking up calls and a volume slider if you really wanted them.
Call me crazy, but I want one of those!
You could try this
http://www.expansys.com/htc/p_htc_item.aspx?i=145066
Might do the trick even if it is a bit long
Rich
Dear lord! You've made my day! Hmmm, a little jiggery pokery and I might even be able to incorporate that into a dock but it'll be fantastic for charging and listening to net radio at work- takes that little extra load off my desktop PC.
Cheers!
Glad I could help
richiev4 said:
You could try this
http://www.expansys.com/htc/p_htc_item.aspx?i=145066
Might do the trick even if it is a bit long
Rich
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Click to collapse
Hi,
Does anyone know if the above would work with a set of mini stereo speakers with a 3.5mm headphone jack (like the walkman speakers i used to have, back in the day...) to listen to the FM radio while charging the phone from mains? Or would you still need the headphones plugged into get any FM reception?
Daft question maybe, but I wondered whether the device would just use the speaker wires as an antenna instead of the headphone wires?
It will work fine, I am going to use mine to connect my orbit to my home stereo and charge it at the same time.
Rich
2.5mm 3 pole jack plug
Hi,
Anybody know of an Artemis mini usb to 2.5mm 3 pole jack plug adapter which allows the connection to deliver audio and microphone capability ?
I would like to connet my Artemis/Orbit to the Autocom intercom system on my motorcycle . This uses a lead with a 2.5mm jack plug at the phone end and a 3.5mm jack at the Autocom system end. Both are 3 pole.
Thanks
P.S. hope you don't mind me jumping in your postings
http://www.expansys.com/s.aspx
try doing a search for "2.5mm"
A very good Items for the Artemis on EbaY :
look :
http://cgi.ebay.fr/FOR-ORANGE-SPV-E...ryZ14419QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
2.5mm 3 pole jack plug adatper
I think I've found exactly what I'm looking for at:
http://igonemobile.com/products/html/61315310.html
I've got one on order and I'll let you know if it works.
cegmawr said:
Hi,
Anybody know of an Artemis mini usb to 2.5mm 3 pole jack plug adapter which allows the connection to deliver audio and microphone capability ?
I would like to connet my Artemis/Orbit to the Autocom intercom system on my motorcycle . This uses a lead with a 2.5mm jack plug at the phone end and a 3.5mm jack at the Autocom system end. Both are 3 pole.
Thanks
P.S. hope you don't mind me jumping in your postings
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is this so you can listen to music from the Orbit? I've had difficulty on my bike with this...music cuts out and wont restart after phone call is over. In the end, I bought the Autocom bluetooth dongle and now bluetooth the Orbit to the bike. I get phone calls and GPS just fine, but I use a wired iPod for music.
cegmawr said:
I think I've found exactly what I'm looking for at:
http://igonemobile.com/products/html/61315310.html
I've got one on order and I'll let you know if it works.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does this support the Artemis? It isn't in the list....
There was a posting for the mini USB PinOut some Time ago. Look in the wiki Section to find it. Here is what they showed up with.
Maybe This will Help someone to build their own Adapter or whatsoever.
Greetings
Jabami
so what was the general concensus with using Autocom? Did the 2.5mm jack work?
I want to avoid using the bluetooth option on autocom, since I might just as well go for a Scala bluetooth headset instead if the jack doesnt work...
I can't use a headset (neither with Tomtom nor with the media player) because the output is warped.
If I use the regular headset then there is no sound at all.
I had a spare headset, so I took it apart and soldered the wires from the jack directly to the headphones. This is what happens:
The first few moments of the output are sometimes cut off. The left channel is almost OK and quite loud. The right channel clicks loudly and is muted, it isn't even half as loud as the left channel.
(Nothing like this happens if you playback the audio via the phone's speaker.)
Is this because of the ROM ( I upgraded tp WinMo 6.5)? I need the audio output for Tomtom and I'll probably solder both headphones to the left channel, but this is an inelegant and dissatisfyinfg solution.
Dirk
probably the best way to find out, whether the rom is responsible is to upgrade to anothr one, i thought i read you are using build 21159? try 21202 then, it is much better and faster anyway. but actually, that is just a general advise, since your problem doesn't sound like a rom problem at all.
it sounds more like a hardware issue, which is likely to occur with these old devices, buttons tend to fail and the sockets, too
EDIT: Please don't double post
Thanks for the reply.
I just followed your advice and upgraded to 201202. Let's see what it does to the audio.
But one question: The headphoes I use look like those which came with a T-Mobile SDA (in fact, they are pretty much the same). Should they work with the Blue Angel? What about the issue where people cannot use their headsets because there is no sound when the plug is pushed in the whole way. I had that too, bu is this a hardware issue?
Dirk
the layout of the ba plug is (from the tip towards the cable): mic, left, right, ground.
that is the standard layout for 4-poled 2.5mm plugs and sockets, i don't know about the sda, but maybe that one uses a special layout.
we had another thread on that, to be found here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=492144
anyways, i had a problem, when using a cheap 3-poled adaptor, because it had the layout: left, right, ground, meaning i only had little sound, and it was the left channel, just coming out of the right ear plug, so that only worked, when pulling it out a little bit. maybe this is a similar thing.
hope this can help you a little, though i think it is not the solution, yet
greetz,
Chef_Tony
Thanks again. Now I soldered the cables to the pins according to what you said. And I flashed the 201202 ROM. But the problem didn't change. I still have these problems:
The first part of the output is cut off most times.
Only the left channel is put through, if at all.
The right channel just clicks loudly.
Edit: I start to believe that there are two factors overlaying eachother. The right channel seems to be dead and I had the wrong headset. After de- and re-soldering the headset it works, minus the right channel. Seems like I have to live with that.
Regards,
Dirk
i am sorry to here that. apparently it is a hardware issue, maybe the following things could help you:
- if you happen to have an electronics store nearby, maybe you could buy a new 2.5mm socket, and assemble it yourself, following these instructions: http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=DIS_BA_PICS (you could at least open it up and give it a look)
- since software faults are out of the picture now, maybe you could use bluetooth audio output, i don't know if you sat nav software offers bt headset profile or a2dp, but wmp at least does.
- 3rd option is looking for spare parts or broken devices on ebay
- 4th and most unlikely version: disassemble the device as shown in idea #1 and split the regular speaker input, you could derive at least another mono stream and put that to an external speaker to here it in the car, but i wouldn't ever do that, though it would probably work, where's the improvement, just a silly idea
Guys,
I have 3 (spare) TP2s and a Home Server loaded with music. With HTC Network Plugin I can access the tunes on my server wirelessly. The only thing missing is a good speaker system for each TP2 to make a multi-room music system.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Well, what are you looking for? Small, Large? Wireless, Bluetooth? The TP2 has a standard 3.5 mm socket so pretty much any speakers should be connectible to it, it's just a question of how big you want... whether they need to be portable (ie, battery powered)... or if you want wires or not.
My guess is that you don't need portability as you are doing to use using three devices in three different rooms. My guess is you also don't want to spend a fortune on a real high level audio system as you're not going to want to "break the bank" three times.
I would probably recommend looking as a decent speaker system for a desktop computer. This shouldn't set you back too much, and it'll be designed to work with a standard 3.5 headphone jack. Shouldn't be too big, yet will be big enough to provide decent quality audio.
Thanks, but the GSM TP2 (Vodafone UK) doesn't have a 3.5'' audio jack. It just has the HTC mini USB jack for both - power & audio.
I apologize! I've got a CDMA, so I just assumed that the GSM had it too. Sorry.
Okay, given that I think you'll find yourself REALLY limited in terms of what you can get. Are there even speaker options with that port on them? I don't know of any here in the US, maybe they are more common in Europe?
If I were you, I supposed I'd just get the 3.5-usb adapter jacks for them, which would let you get pretty much any system for them. You can get 'em from Seidio for $16.00 US:
http://www.seidioonline.com/product-p/ada3-11pm35fc.htm
This is not something new and have been shown many times in YouTube. It is interesting to have for any phone with 3.5mm audio jack that can be easily done within a few minutes. I do not use my headset with my phone so this would be a nice hack to have around to listen with your friends on some local radio without consuming your data plan and phone battery.
Find a headset that you do not need. We only want the part with the 3.5mm audio jack. Just trim it down to about 20cm in length and fold it in half and tie a knot at the end. I tied a lasso knot at the end just so I can adjust the length of the receiver later on though it may not help much in reception quality.
Tested several length from 1 meter all the way to 20 centimetres and found not much difference in reception quality for a fact that you will be using your loudspeaker to listen to the FM radio. The same with whether to loop or not to loop the receiver but looping the receiver gives it a cleaner look while maintaining the same reception frequency.
Putting your phone too close to a human body greatly interferes with the FM signal. On the other hand, placing your phone on a metal table may enhance the FM reception.
Perhaps those who have knowledge in electronics can shed some light to optimize this simple hack further.
Have fun...
I didn't know. Works like a charm !! Thank You
Doesn't work for me. When I plug in the trimmed headset cable with the ear pieces cut off, the FM App keeps asking me to plug in a headset. Works OK when I plug in an untrimmed headset and switch to speaker in FM App menu.
Is there a further trick to getting this to work? Are you using the stock FM App?
I had the same problem myself, and it stems from the fact that smartphones will interrogate any headset you plug in to check if it is suitable. There are basic stereo headphones with three contacts on the jack plug (from the tip they are left, right and ground) and should work on any phone regardless. But there are two variants of headset (i.e. those with a microphone) that use four contacts, the difference being whether they connect the mic on the third or fourth contact.
As of 2016 most manufacturers have standardised on one system (left, right, mic then ground), but there are enough older phones and matching headsets out there that use the alternative pinout scheme. For example my old Sony Xperia used L-R-G-M (the same as say Blackberry), necessitating the use of an adapter for certain accessories. My latest Z5 however, has moved to the L-R-M-G pattern, which means I can no longer use my favourite old Sony headset anymore, not even as plain headphones, the Z5 just refused to talk to them.
That explains why a dumb wire might not work with a smartphone, because it is looking for a signal loop on all four (or three) contacts to try and figure out what's been plugged into it. The solution is to short out the wires to fool the phone into thinking there actually is something on the other end. Simply bare all of the wires at the cut end of the cable, burn off the fine lacquer or cotton that is used as an insulation, then twist the wires together to short them all to the ground. Better still, solder them together and cover with a bit of heat-shrink for a proper finish.
Found some pre-made antennas in ebay, you can try searching for 3.5mm antenna. They look pretty decent. I am also looking for compatible antenna, if any, that is compatible for steven303's new headphone jack.
Edit: did some research and found that the 3.5mm steven303 mentioned is called '3.5mm 4 conductor' or 'TRRS antenna 3.5mm', you can try searching for them in ebay or look for similar ones lying around with wires long enough to be loops around to be used as antenna for new phones with the new type of head jack.
I got two item I think can be suitable for this purpose; search with the following keyword in ebay;
1. 3.5mm 1/8'' Male To Male 4-Pole 3 Ring TRRS AV Audio Extension Cable 1.2M/4Feet
2. 4-Pole 3Ring TRRS 3.5mm (1/8'') Male To Female AV Extension Cable 3FT/1M Black
I have an additional issue. I use my phone's fm radio feature with an old pair of headphones for an antenna and listen via blue tooth headphones when I'm running or just working around the house, etc. My problem is that as the phone moves around in my pocket, the movement causes the phone to think the headphones came unplugged for a second and the radio turns off. When that happens I have to take the phone out and turn the radio back on. This happens often enough that it is a pain in the neck.
A separate but related issue. With some old, non functioning headphone cables the phone doesn't think there is anything plugged into it. I am lucky in that my phone gives me the option to "Play anyway through speaker or bluetooth". So even though it thinks there isn't anything plugged into it, I do, and I have good FM reception.
Here is what I want: I want to know what to do to my old headphone wire so that my phone doesn't think there is anything plugged into it when it is, in fact, plugged in. I hope that makes sense!
Hey guys,
Bought some nice headphones with the 3 button control on it. The center button works for pausing/playing and skipping to the next track, but the volume controls don't work for some reason... Can I do something to get them working? Maybe download something? Change some settings?
Thank you!
I don't think the phone supports that, did you try the mic? In some of the three buttons headsets the mic does not work.
Mic does not work either, is there a way to make the headset supported?
Have you tried Tasker?
Not very familiar with the program? Could you recommend what to do?
Jeanxito said:
Have you tried Tasker?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any suggestions?
Thank you!
From my point of view, you can always try to create a profile for your headphones, that can control the way you want, signing buttons to work like you want. You can always use other automate programs but, tasker is the most complete and powerful IMO.
If you can not use it, our can't find the your way to work with it there's always a wiki for it (just search for it) our try to use others like "Smartkey" or "RemoteControl for Earphones" (search playstore).
I tried an app called headset button controller and it recognized the center button clicks but did not recognize the volume button clicks. Can I somehow in tasked or another program get the volume buttons to recognize?
It sounds like you've got a iPhone compatible headset rather than an android one. I've only just started looking into this myself (as I'm in the market for a new headset) but as I understand it Apple have swapped the pin out on the TRRS connector. I think there might be adapters available if you're married to you're current headset but I haven't really investigated that as I haven't bought anything yet and I think an adapter would end up being clumsy.
On mobile so don't have my links in front of me but hopefully that's enough to give you an appropriate Google query.
obzbdc said:
It sounds like you've got a iPhone compatible headset rather than an android one. I've only just started looking into this myself (as I'm in the market for a new headset) but as I understand it Apple have swapped the pin out on the TRRS connector. I think there might be adapters available if you're married to you're current headset but I haven't really investigated that as I haven't bought anything yet and I think an adapter would end up being clumsy.
On mobile so don't have my links in front of me but hopefully that's enough to give you an appropriate Google query.
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The headset I have has an extension that I put on to make the cord longer, I wouldn't mind buying the trrs adapter and using this new cable/adapter instead of my current one.... Would this fix my problem of the buttons not working?
Nope, sorry!
arty93 said:
The headset I have has an extension that I put on to make the cord longer, I wouldn't mind buying the trrs adapter and using this new cable/adapter instead of my current one.... Would this fix my problem of the buttons not working?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hiya,
I finally got around to doing some more research into this, apparantly there are two different issues with using Apple headsets with Android devices.
1 - Wiring change on 3.5mm TRRS connector. - This is why the microphone doesn't work for calls, Apple changed the pin out on the headphone jack to the reverse of most other manufacturers. This is the problem that can be solved by the adapter I was talking about originally.
2 - Different resistance on the button commands. - In addition to the wiring changes Apple also use a different electrical resistance on the buttons (and have patented their specific level). The adapter doesn't fix this unfortunately so even with it the buttons still won't work.
Looks like there isn't a solution to #2 unfortunately so it might be time to start looking at a different headset entirely.
Sorry for getting your hopes up with my original post.
BDC