I can't use a headset (neither with Tomtom nor with the media player) because the output is warped.
If I use the regular headset then there is no sound at all.
I had a spare headset, so I took it apart and soldered the wires from the jack directly to the headphones. This is what happens:
The first few moments of the output are sometimes cut off. The left channel is almost OK and quite loud. The right channel clicks loudly and is muted, it isn't even half as loud as the left channel.
(Nothing like this happens if you playback the audio via the phone's speaker.)
Is this because of the ROM ( I upgraded tp WinMo 6.5)? I need the audio output for Tomtom and I'll probably solder both headphones to the left channel, but this is an inelegant and dissatisfyinfg solution.
Dirk
probably the best way to find out, whether the rom is responsible is to upgrade to anothr one, i thought i read you are using build 21159? try 21202 then, it is much better and faster anyway. but actually, that is just a general advise, since your problem doesn't sound like a rom problem at all.
it sounds more like a hardware issue, which is likely to occur with these old devices, buttons tend to fail and the sockets, too
EDIT: Please don't double post
Thanks for the reply.
I just followed your advice and upgraded to 201202. Let's see what it does to the audio.
But one question: The headphoes I use look like those which came with a T-Mobile SDA (in fact, they are pretty much the same). Should they work with the Blue Angel? What about the issue where people cannot use their headsets because there is no sound when the plug is pushed in the whole way. I had that too, bu is this a hardware issue?
Dirk
the layout of the ba plug is (from the tip towards the cable): mic, left, right, ground.
that is the standard layout for 4-poled 2.5mm plugs and sockets, i don't know about the sda, but maybe that one uses a special layout.
we had another thread on that, to be found here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=492144
anyways, i had a problem, when using a cheap 3-poled adaptor, because it had the layout: left, right, ground, meaning i only had little sound, and it was the left channel, just coming out of the right ear plug, so that only worked, when pulling it out a little bit. maybe this is a similar thing.
hope this can help you a little, though i think it is not the solution, yet
greetz,
Chef_Tony
Thanks again. Now I soldered the cables to the pins according to what you said. And I flashed the 201202 ROM. But the problem didn't change. I still have these problems:
The first part of the output is cut off most times.
Only the left channel is put through, if at all.
The right channel just clicks loudly.
Edit: I start to believe that there are two factors overlaying eachother. The right channel seems to be dead and I had the wrong headset. After de- and re-soldering the headset it works, minus the right channel. Seems like I have to live with that.
Regards,
Dirk
i am sorry to here that. apparently it is a hardware issue, maybe the following things could help you:
- if you happen to have an electronics store nearby, maybe you could buy a new 2.5mm socket, and assemble it yourself, following these instructions: http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=DIS_BA_PICS (you could at least open it up and give it a look)
- since software faults are out of the picture now, maybe you could use bluetooth audio output, i don't know if you sat nav software offers bt headset profile or a2dp, but wmp at least does.
- 3rd option is looking for spare parts or broken devices on ebay
- 4th and most unlikely version: disassemble the device as shown in idea #1 and split the regular speaker input, you could derive at least another mono stream and put that to an external speaker to here it in the car, but i wouldn't ever do that, though it would probably work, where's the improvement, just a silly idea
Related
Hi all!
For sound out, there are adapters (I already have one), which convert from that custom 2.5" jack to a standard 3.5" - which even let the built in microphone active. OK.
But is there any adapter for the opposite? Converting the microphone / sound in part of that custom 2.5" to an e.g. 3.5" - so that some standard microphone or some other sound pickup could be attached?
Wether built in speaker would be left active or not isn't relevant for me.
Background: I have one of those programs for tuning musical instruments. It works fine with the built in mic in relatively silent rooms and for acoustic instruments. But imagine beeing on stage between two songs while the crowd is cheering!
If no such accessory is available: I would spend some extra Euros for a second hands free thing, cut off the side with the 2.5" plug and tinker a 3.5" on the open end.
But will this work - or have I to include some resistors or such?
Thanks, greetings
Manfred
There are such adapter on sales
http://www.expansys.com/product.asp?code=113967&tab=0
As for the issue of resister, I don't think you will be needing any. I've no experience on electric musical instruments, but a microphone is a essentially an active resistor/capacitor that convert sounds to resistance/capacitance-variation and hence electric signals. It does not produce any form of voltage itself (eg. you do not need battery for microphone).
Hence, it depends on your musical instruments. If you were to get the adaptor above, perform a voltage test on all 6 combinations (of the 3 contacts) to make sure your instruments does not produce any form of voltage/current. If it does not produce any form of voltage, you ought to be safe for a direct plug-in.
(oops, did I mix up " with mm in my initial post )
Are you using this adaptor yourself? With a Prophet? Does it work?
Not to appear nagging, but there are three facts that make me doubt:
- the description there tells me, that it "converts the standard 2.5mm three conductor jack"
- which can also be seen on the "larger image" (those pictures at expansys often are near causing eye cancer >;-) ), where the plug has *three* contacts
- description also tells us, the adaptor converts to a "3.5mm Mono Headphone Jack".
Well, the jack of Prophet has *four* contacts, and sound out comes in *stereo*. I guess that: tip and first ring are - stereo - out; 2nd ring is mic in; last "ring" obviously is ground. This I take from the fact, that my adaptor for standard 2.5mm to standard 3.5mm stereo earphones really delivers stereo out, but the internal mic is still working.
So I also guess, that this adaptor here has e.g. *mono* out on tip, mic in on 1st ring - and ground on third and last ring - which also would lead to connecting Prophet's mic to ground.
Or am I totally wrong here?
The question about resistors (and such) comes from looking at
http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=Connectors
(but that's Wallaby and Himalaya wiring, and with the latter there's also an extra (5th!) "outer sleeve" connector); but you can see in the drawing there, that there are a diode and three capacitors between mic and ground, and serially a resistor (but all without values).
So I fear, that just connecting a (passive) guitar pickup won't deliver satisfying results.
Hmm. didn't notice that one is a mono output. Anyway, can't really find one with mic and headphone out for streo (actually, gave up searching). I guess there aren't enough market for people pluging in their own mic.
As for the diagram, it looks like that, for the micrphone, the circular wiring thing is an inductor, not a resistor, since it is marked as L1. From what it seems, it looks like those capacitors and inductor is there to bias the circuit such that the mic is to be in the right impedance to pickup speech. That is more to "adjust" the mic such that it will gives the correct values (probably due to its small size?). So, if you were to plugin in your instruments directly, the result may not be that good. But probably it will. You may need to tune your software to adjust for this?
As for the z-diode there, it is a mystery to me. Can't think of anything useful for it, except to ensure the mic-in is always >= 0 (greater or equals to zero).
Well, first of all: thanks a lot for your answers!!
I also gave up searching before posting here; also searched for a separate 4-ring 2.5mm plug; but before investing in a second headset just to get that plug, I thought I'd ask here ...
Inductors, resistors et all ... it's been way too long since my physics intensive course on grammar school ...
Your thoughts sound logical.
So I'll get me the headset for the plug and tinker an adaptor myself - without any extra inductors or capacitors. Will see how it works - if not, well, I'll come back here again to ask for the values of them ... and tinker along ;-)
I build an adapter on my own out of the standard hands free headphone which was included in delivery.Unfortuately I had to destroy the case a bit I just made a kabel with a 3,5 mm jack and soldered it on the circuit board and bridged the build in mikrophone.Now I am able to connect a stand alone microphone to my Prophet.
Cheers
you can order one @ http://mobile.brando.com.hk/
@ Repose: you mean the handsfree headphone? I already ordered one at expansys
@ colida: that's another idea, keeping the circuit board. Such, all capacitors etc. are in place ... maybe just looks a bit ugly, you really have to break that little housing.
This is not something new and have been shown many times in YouTube. It is interesting to have for any phone with 3.5mm audio jack that can be easily done within a few minutes. I do not use my headset with my phone so this would be a nice hack to have around to listen with your friends on some local radio without consuming your data plan and phone battery.
Find a headset that you do not need. We only want the part with the 3.5mm audio jack. Just trim it down to about 20cm in length and fold it in half and tie a knot at the end. I tied a lasso knot at the end just so I can adjust the length of the receiver later on though it may not help much in reception quality.
Tested several length from 1 meter all the way to 20 centimetres and found not much difference in reception quality for a fact that you will be using your loudspeaker to listen to the FM radio. The same with whether to loop or not to loop the receiver but looping the receiver gives it a cleaner look while maintaining the same reception frequency.
Putting your phone too close to a human body greatly interferes with the FM signal. On the other hand, placing your phone on a metal table may enhance the FM reception.
Perhaps those who have knowledge in electronics can shed some light to optimize this simple hack further.
Have fun...
I didn't know. Works like a charm !! Thank You
Doesn't work for me. When I plug in the trimmed headset cable with the ear pieces cut off, the FM App keeps asking me to plug in a headset. Works OK when I plug in an untrimmed headset and switch to speaker in FM App menu.
Is there a further trick to getting this to work? Are you using the stock FM App?
I had the same problem myself, and it stems from the fact that smartphones will interrogate any headset you plug in to check if it is suitable. There are basic stereo headphones with three contacts on the jack plug (from the tip they are left, right and ground) and should work on any phone regardless. But there are two variants of headset (i.e. those with a microphone) that use four contacts, the difference being whether they connect the mic on the third or fourth contact.
As of 2016 most manufacturers have standardised on one system (left, right, mic then ground), but there are enough older phones and matching headsets out there that use the alternative pinout scheme. For example my old Sony Xperia used L-R-G-M (the same as say Blackberry), necessitating the use of an adapter for certain accessories. My latest Z5 however, has moved to the L-R-M-G pattern, which means I can no longer use my favourite old Sony headset anymore, not even as plain headphones, the Z5 just refused to talk to them.
That explains why a dumb wire might not work with a smartphone, because it is looking for a signal loop on all four (or three) contacts to try and figure out what's been plugged into it. The solution is to short out the wires to fool the phone into thinking there actually is something on the other end. Simply bare all of the wires at the cut end of the cable, burn off the fine lacquer or cotton that is used as an insulation, then twist the wires together to short them all to the ground. Better still, solder them together and cover with a bit of heat-shrink for a proper finish.
Found some pre-made antennas in ebay, you can try searching for 3.5mm antenna. They look pretty decent. I am also looking for compatible antenna, if any, that is compatible for steven303's new headphone jack.
Edit: did some research and found that the 3.5mm steven303 mentioned is called '3.5mm 4 conductor' or 'TRRS antenna 3.5mm', you can try searching for them in ebay or look for similar ones lying around with wires long enough to be loops around to be used as antenna for new phones with the new type of head jack.
I got two item I think can be suitable for this purpose; search with the following keyword in ebay;
1. 3.5mm 1/8'' Male To Male 4-Pole 3 Ring TRRS AV Audio Extension Cable 1.2M/4Feet
2. 4-Pole 3Ring TRRS 3.5mm (1/8'') Male To Female AV Extension Cable 3FT/1M Black
I have an additional issue. I use my phone's fm radio feature with an old pair of headphones for an antenna and listen via blue tooth headphones when I'm running or just working around the house, etc. My problem is that as the phone moves around in my pocket, the movement causes the phone to think the headphones came unplugged for a second and the radio turns off. When that happens I have to take the phone out and turn the radio back on. This happens often enough that it is a pain in the neck.
A separate but related issue. With some old, non functioning headphone cables the phone doesn't think there is anything plugged into it. I am lucky in that my phone gives me the option to "Play anyway through speaker or bluetooth". So even though it thinks there isn't anything plugged into it, I do, and I have good FM reception.
Here is what I want: I want to know what to do to my old headphone wire so that my phone doesn't think there is anything plugged into it when it is, in fact, plugged in. I hope that makes sense!
Hi,
I have been trying to troubleshoot my issues and have had no luck.
one day my headphones stopped playing in my right ear so I figured it was a bad headphone jack. I bought a new one and replaced it. Now it only plays when button control headphones are plugged in (the plugs with the 3 black stripes not the 2 like standard earbuds). It does play but if I turn the headphone plug it stops playing at certain points while turning. the rear speaker works fine.
I tried having the jack plugged in with the metal outer case off and I have the same issue (again, I don't think a short is an issue).
I checked everything and the headphone jack appears to be fine, doesn't appear to be a short anywhere. I am at a loss on what my next step would be.
Thank you.
There are lots of possible solutions, that you can try.
Sounds like you might just need to replace the audio receiver.
It's a $5 part and a 10min job - http://www.dx.com/p/genuine-repair-...-module-for-samsung-i9220-139035#.U36IJvmk2QA
Here's a pre-existing thread full of people having similar issues.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=52858277
Hey people, I was wondering if anyone has had the faulty headphones issue. After a few days, my headphones stopped working properly, there was a lot of static and they need to be pushed and held towards the screen to function again. This is going on with 3 pairs so it's a phone fault.Maybe all the tech savvy experts here can chime in and propose something.
Thanks!
I have the exact same issue since yesterday... I already tried to clean the headphone jack with no effect so far.
I will unscrew the device and have a closer look at the headphone jack when I find time. Probably not today.
shadowseed said:
I have the exact same issue since yesterday... I already tried to clean the headphone jack with no effect so far.
I will unscrew the device and have a closer look at the headphone jack when I find time. Probably not today.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was thinking of taking it to a local repair shop around here in the weekend. Whoever finds a solution first I guess. Also I have noticed this visi0nary. de/ ?p=30 (I can't post links yet). I think it looks similar
therealtry said:
I was thinking of taking it to a local repair shop around here in the weekend. Whoever finds a solution first I guess. Also I have noticed this visi0nary. de/ ?p=30 (I can't post links yet). I think it looks similar
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sadly it's not the same problem visi0nary describes on his blog. The Mass contact is fine.
I had the phone open for a few minutes and it seems like all contact wrap thight around the plug. I guess the problem is a broken soldered point at the back of the circuit board.
I had no time to remove the board completly and check the back.
Maybe you can ask your repair shop guy what he did to fix it? Thanks.
shadowseed said:
Sadly it's not the same problem visi0nary describes on his blog. The Mass contact is fine.
I had the phone open for a few minutes and it seems like all contact wrap thight around the plug. I guess the problem is a broken soldered point at the back of the circuit board.
I had no time to remove the board completly and check the back.
Maybe you can ask your repair shop guy what he did to fix it? Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey shadowseed,
I took it to a couple of guys in downtown Athens and none said they wanna take a look at an Elephone. And these were techie Asian guys lol. Let me know if you find anything via pm or through here. Thanks. I'll keep looking myself otherwise I'll buy bluetooth headphones.
the problem with bluetooth headphones is that Elephone set the Bluetooth A2DP Bitpool to 35 (basically means compressed data = better range and quicker transfer rate ) which results in terrible sound quality over Bluetooth audio.
I'm not an audiophile but I can't listen to music over bluetooth in my car like I used to with my previous device, it sounds horrible.
This is a software issue but it can't be fixed with a root app or something like this, it's set in the bluetooth drivers. There is a setting under "Sounds & Notifications" called "Lossless BT-Mode", but it does nothing... or not enough, I'm not sure. The Bitpool needs to be raised to 52 or higher for "lossless" mp3 playback.
I wouldn't have bought this phone if I had known this...
UPDATE: I fixed it. This soldering point broke. I didn't solder it, I put a piece of cardboard under the circuit board which presses against the shell. I did this yesterday in the afternoon and used it multiple times since then, it seems to work great.
Put some solder on every point now. That fixed the problems for me, looked like there was no solder there.
Same on my phone >.< seems that the headphone jack has been horribly designed/built then!
The design is excellent, but there are multiple points with no solder on top, just glued or something. That can obviously not work in the long term.. The fix is very easy if you have a soldering iron, you don't need precision tools.
Hello
I have the same problem. I've bought it a few days ago (it has not one month).
What can I do? This phone is warranted?
Thanks,
Diego
shadowseed said:
the problem with bluetooth headphones is that Elephone set the Bluetooth A2DP Bitpool to 35 (basically means compressed data = better range and quicker transfer rate ) which results in terrible sound quality over Bluetooth audio.
I'm not an audiophile but I can't listen to music over bluetooth in my car like I used to with my previous device, it sounds horrible.
This is a software issue but it can't be fixed with a root app or something like this, it's set in the bluetooth drivers. There is a setting under "Sounds & Notifications" called "Lossless BT-Mode", but it does nothing... or not enough, I'm not sure. The Bitpool needs to be raised to 52 or higher for "lossless" mp3 playback.
I wouldn't have bought this phone if I had known this...
UPDATE: I fixed it. This soldering point broke. I didn't solder it, I put a piece of cardboard under the circuit board which presses against the shell. I did this yesterday in the afternoon and used it multiple times since then, it seems to work great.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you please give us a detailed tutorial on how to open up the elephone?
I've tried it today (got the same problem) and failed on removing the white case from the fingerprint scanner.
You can see here: KlickKlack
I've tried soldering the points today and the connection seems more stable for now.
No more bzzing in idle when using headphones (Teufel Aureol), but the quality still sounds like some bad compressed mp3.
Pushing the plug (display frontfacing) to the back left seems to fix the problem.
I've tried putting cardboard between the 3.5mm port and the casing of the phone but no luck.
When using in-ears (some cheap philips) there is still a semi-loud bzzing in the backgroud and since the cable goes sideways there is no way of getting a stable connction.
Did I do faulty soldering or might I've broken the port with the soldering iron?
puu(.)sh/ltJDW/ea70467ca2.JPG - Image 1 (Note: I already resolded the point that seems unstable.)
puu(.)sh/ltJNx/08d0ead27a.JPG - Image 2
shadowseed said:
the problem with bluetooth headphones is that Elephone set the Bluetooth A2DP Bitpool to 35 (basically means compressed data = better range and quicker transfer rate ) which results in terrible sound quality over Bluetooth audio.
I'm not an audiophile but I can't listen to music over bluetooth in my car like I used to with my previous device, it sounds horrible.
This is a software issue but it can't be fixed with a root app or something like this, it's set in the bluetooth drivers. There is a setting under "Sounds & Notifications" called "Lossless BT-Mode", but it does nothing... or not enough, I'm not sure. The Bitpool needs to be raised to 52 or higher for "lossless" mp3 playback.
I wouldn't have bought this phone if I had known this...
UPDATE: I fixed it. This soldering point broke. I didn't solder it, I put a piece of cardboard under the circuit board which presses against the shell. I did this yesterday in the afternoon and used it multiple times since then, it seems to work great.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks!!!
i'm in the business too, since two days, bought a bt dongle, with eragon rom no bad sound issue, but the asycronious in videos of sound and lips movement is bad, so i have to solder...i need an iron, tomorrow i will try, i hope i will fix it. what about warranty??
thanks for the solutions
I don't care much for warranty on a china phone...
I had the problem that the right in ear speaker didn't work but the left one was okay. But after some time even the left got worse and wasn't usable anymore.
Then I opened the Elephone and soldered the parts of the audio jack (like in the picture above).
It improved the audio quality but it still works only for the left speaker. How do I get both working?
schakalakka said:
I had the problem that the right in ear speaker didn't work but the left one was okay. But after some time even the left got worse and wasn't usable anymore.
Then I opened the Elephone and soldered the parts of the audio jack (like in the picture above).
It improved the audio quality but it still works only for the left speaker. How do I get both working?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm facing the same issue, soldered all the contacts and then only left is working.
Did you solve this?
Romeo76 said:
I'm facing the same issue, soldered all the contacts and then only left is working.
Did you solve this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately it is still the same.
Well looks like im sticking to bluetooth headphones, was hoping someone would confirm the soldering would fix it.
I installed this unit in wife's 2018 Highlander today. It sounds great if wifi is switched off, or if it's on and no data is flowing. I am using Network Mini to monitor data, and as soon as data is going up/down, the crackling starts.
I've reached out to Dasaita and am awaiting a reply
I have grounded the black wire with the ringlet directly to the frame but it makes no difference. I have NOT grounded the radio chassis yet. Also the noise goes away when the unit isn't crammed into the dash. When all the wires are in close proximity to radio is when it picks up
Anyone seen this issue. Love the radio otherwise...
Video:.
https://youtu.be/NhSzLh7CD_0
Wow - that's REALLY bad... I'm starting to get a little fed up with the interference noises from my Eonon MTCE-WWW unit as well. I don't have any issues when using the internal amp, but if I connect to an external amp with the line-out RCAs, I get interference from USB devices, the LED backlighting on the unit, etc. It's shame becuase I love the idea of an Android unit, but not sure I can deal with the subpar quality issues....
Going to try connecting to my amp via speaker-level outputs next and see if that helps at all.
Do you have a stock or aftermarket amp in your vehicle?
Cracks and noises for me as well with my Belsee BP3 PX5 unit.
For me too the noises seem to fade away when I turn off WiFi.
I upgraded the firmware of the unit with a Cs-x sound mod one (there's an recente one for Dasaita too) and it seem to have reduced the issue
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...ent/mod-cs-x-mod-mtcd-e-mcu-firmware-t3816042
Maybe you can check this out ?
TheDiB said:
Cracks and noises for me as well with my Belsee BP3 PX5 unit.
For me too the noises seem to fade away when I turn off WiFi.
I upgraded the firmware of the unit with a Cs-x sound mod one (there's an recente one for Dasaita too) and it seem to have reduced the issue
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...ent/mod-cs-x-mod-mtcd-e-mcu-firmware-t3816042
Maybe you can check this out ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I suppose I could try updates, but I don't hold out much hope given that the problem seems to be related to proximity to the wifi antenna. It did this on the stock rom, as well as the Hal9k variant.
I'll update this thread if I manage to find an improvement.
The alternate sound-patched MCU's didn't make any difference whatsoever on my Eonon MTCE-WWW unit. I tried both the cs-x version and the wazdio verion. Same noise-related issues. You may help "hide" them a little by turning down the pre-amp value, but you can also do that with the stock MCUs, under the Factory Settings "Voice" tab.
To put it simply, I think they just use low-quality components with limited R&D - which is why these units are so inexpensive compared to more premium brands of plug-and-play units like Rosen, Dynavin, etc (they run WinCE though).
If using speaker-level outputs on the Eonon doesn't help in my case, I'll probably be going back to a WInCE unit, just becuase they seem to have much higher-quality audio components (better DAC's, 4V pre-outs, BBE processor, real 9-band EQ, time-delay, etc). I was really looking forward to an Android head-unit, but I'm just not willing to sacrifice sound quality to get the Android interface. Viper4Android helps a LOT in terms of sound-quality, but it can't help with the noise-related issues, which are more of a hardware thing...
Maybe some day they'll get there. I really wish they made low- and high-end versions of these radios - that way people had a choice between low-cost and high-quality.
That's a shame, as there is so much potential. I have a Hizpo PK5 in my (JBL-equipped) Sequoia, and it's completely noise-free. But this Dasaita for the Highlander is just very loud. It seems like it's a shielding issue. As stated previously, if I keep the head unit out with all the cables extended, the sound stops. I'm halfway tempted to buy an SMA wifi antenna with a cable long enough to get the RF signal away from the wires. The sound is exclusive to the left channel (both front and rear).
@TheDiB, missed your prior question. It's a JBL-equipped vehicle.
Yeah, your particular noise is REALLY bad (mine is more of something that you only hear if the music is muted or during really quiet parts of the music - and only in certain cases (but it still bothers me knowing that it's there).
Being that you can stop the noise by pulling the radio out, you may be able to figure out what is causing it. Maybe try disconnecting the AM/FM antenna to see if that has anytihng to do with it - I've read some cases where hte antenna was causing interference. Or just re-routing some of the wiring - or something along those lines.
In my case, the noises are present no matter what - but only if I use the RCA line-level outputs and an extrnal amp. If I use the stock built-in amp, there is no noise whatsoever. So mine seems to be related to the RCA line-level output hardware (shielding related, I'm guessing).
I would experiment some more if you are happy with the radio and sound-quality otherwise.
I'm hoping I hear something helpful back from Dasaita in the coming days. On this particular unit, the wifi antenna comes out about 1/2" above the main ISO plug for the radio. I suppose I could relocate the antenna by running the existing bulkhead SMA fitting through a screw hole elsewhere on the case to provide more distance. I'm not giving up yet The other issue is that it's the wife's car, so my access to it is limited.
I'm not using line-level outputs. The four pairs for the speaker output comes out of that ISO plug, and goes straight to the Toyota harness. Fader control (as well as a bunch of other controls/data) goes through the can bus adapter. But ultimately, those four speaker pair end up at the factory JBL amplifier.
Aside from the noise, the audio quality is equivalent to the stock radio. But, I'm not an audiophile, and I have the opposite of OCD...
So your stock JBL amp actually accepts speaker-level inputs? Usually, amps take line-level inputs. With the Eonon MTCE-WWW units for GM's, if your car has a stock Bose amp, there is a special "Bose adpater" that connects to the same port where you would connect the line-level RCA jacks for aftermarket amps, which is line-level - but instead of having RCA jacks at the other end, it just connects into the main wiring harness, so I guess it sends line-level signals through the speaker wires, to the Bose amp - and then the Bose amp amplifies them (that is just a guess though, based on the fact that the audio is coming from the same port that is used for an external aftermarket amp, which is line-level).
So the wiring harness you use for yours is exactly the same regardless of whether the car has a stock amplifier or not? Or maybe it's not an option on your car and they ALL come with JBL amps? Just trying to understand your setup a little better. Do you have a link to the unit you purcahsed?
jtrosky said:
So your stock JBL amp actually accepts speaker-level inputs? Usually, amps take line-level inputs. With the Eonon MTCE-WWW units for GM's, if your car has a stock Bose amp, there is a special "Bose adpater" that connects to the same port where you would connect the line-level RCA jacks for aftermarket amps, which is line-level - but instead of having RCA jacks at the other end, it just connects into the main wiring harness, so I guess it sends line-level signals through the speaker wires, to the Bose amp - and then the Bose amp amplifies them (that is just a guess though, based on the fact that the audio is coming from the same port that is used for an external aftermarket amp, which is line-level).
So the wiring harness you use for yours is exactly the same regardless of whether the car has a stock amplifier or not? Or maybe it's not an option on your car and they ALL come with JBL amps? Just trying to understand your setup a little better. Do you have a link to the unit you purcahsed?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It must, because I'm not using any coax/low-level outputs. In fact, I haven't hooked up most of the pigtail connectors. The ISO harness has about 5 or 6 connectors that are used, and about as many that aren't (presumably for the non-JBL vehicles). I think the Toyota JBL set up is much like the Bose you described. In a previous Tundra, I had to buy an adapter that would convert the two-pair per speaker wires to RCA plugs which I could then use to connect my aftermarket radio (to use the low level outputs). That converter (made by Metra or Scoche, IIRC) also somehow tied into the canbus to power the amp and control the fader.
Ultimately with this PX5, I'm using the purple/green/gray/white speaker level outputs to go directly to the factory harness. No adapter in between. I can only assume the JBL amp is designed to accept this somehow. Both my Sequoia and now this Highlander are set up the same way.
Well, I am happy to report that I was able to resolve the noise by replacing the Dasaita wifi antenna with a full-sized SMA-equipped antenna from an old Asus router. The antenna was a female SMA, so I had to slip a small copper conductor into it so it would interface with the female SMA bulkhead on the radio - but once I did that, ALL the noise disappeared! So either something is wrong with the antenna they provided, or it's simply dumping too much RF right on top of the ISO connector with all the speaker outputs. Whew!
Very cool! Glad to hear that you got it resolved. So is the antenna now further away from the ISO connector - or is it just becuase it's a different antenna? You may to get an adapter or an antenna with the right connecter for long-term use (instead of using the wrong gender anteanna with a piece of copper wire installed).
Regardless, glad to hear that you figure it out! I wish my noise-related issues were so easy to solve.
Although, I did some brief testing this morning and it seems that using the speaker-level outputs is better than using the line-level outputs on mine (for connecting external amp). The noises are still there, but they aren't as loud when using speaker-level outputs for my external amp (usually, it's the other way around with higher-quality head-units).
These units are so close to being really good - it's a shame they have these noise-relasted issues...
jtrosky said:
Very cool! Glad to hear that you got it resolved. So is the antenna now further away from the ISO connector - or is it just becuase it's a different antenna? You may to get an adapter or an antenna with the right connecter for long-term use (instead of using the wrong gender anteanna with a piece of copper wire installed).
Regardless, glad to hear that you figure it out! I wish my noise-related issues were so easy to solve.
Although, I did some brief testing this morning and it seems that using the speaker-level outputs is better than using the line-level outputs on mine (for connecting external amp). The noises are still there, but they aren't as loud when using speaker-level outputs for my external amp (usually, it's the other way around with higher-quality head-units).
These units are so close to being really good - it's a shame they have these noise-relasted issues...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't move the bulkhead SMA fitting. I would have had to break the factory seal, and I didn't want to jeopardize warranty just yet. The antenna I added is about 4x longer than the stubby they provided, so I suppose it is spreading the RF over a larger area. It has a hinge on it and if I aim it straight back the noise is still present. Bending it 90° away from the harness makes it totally silent - and there is no depreciation in the signal strength.
I have ordered a gender changer and a 3" SMA extension cable from Amazon, but I probably won't install it unless the problem returns. I figure why rock the boat.
Is the noise you're experiencing related to data transmission? Does it stop if you disable the wifi? I'm wondering if wrapping the first few inches of the wiring bundle with copper tape wouldn't provide shielding against induced RF noise.
Ah - I see. Interesting - so just a different antenna resolved your issue. Like you said, I guess it's spreading out the signal enough to avoid causing the interference. I'm sure someone else will find that info very useful in the future!
My noise issues are not realted to wifi. I have interference noises in the following situations:
1. If car is not running and radio LED backlighting is on (cuases a hum through the speakers). Mainly only noticeable when no music is playing (between songs, for example) or when there are very quiet parts of the music.
2. When using my headrest monitors.
3. Anytime the system accesses USB devices. The interference is pretty noticeable when reading/writing USB thumb drives - especially if they have LEDs on them.
4. If I my Eonon USB dashcam is active, it makes a strange intference noise from the speakers. Again, really only noticeable when no music is playing, but...
None of these are huge issues in of themselves, but at the same time, it just bothers me knowing that the interference exists. I've also noticed that the overall sound quality just isn't as good as my previous WinCE-based head-units - (much more expensive units - they have 4v preouts, higher-quality DAC's, etc) - even when using an external amplifier. Never had interference noises with them, so the Android unit is really a downgrade in terms of sound-quality, which is more important to me than having Android, I guess. I was hoping that there woulnd't be much difference in sound quality when using an external amp, but there still is...
At first, I thought the Android head-unit was awesome while testng "on the bench" - until I connected it in-car and used it for a few days, then I started noticing all of the "cons" (warning chimes and turn-signal sounds are horrible, button backlighting doesn't dim with the rest of the interior lights when dimmed, screen isn't as nice or as bright as previous units, super-reflecitive screen, the noise issues mentioned above, no true dual-zone for my headrest monitors, no XM tuner, having to jump through all kind of hoops just to get music to continue playing where it left off when restarting the car, etc). When I add up all of these "cons", I'm just not sure the Android unit is worth it for me. I'll probably be going back to my WinCE head-unit very soon (Dynavin N7 or Rosen GM1010/1210). The WinCE units are not as flexible as the Android units, but the sound quality is more important to me.
I'd *gladly* pay more for a higher-quality Android head-unit, but right now, they just don't seem to exist - which is unfortunate...
jtrosky said:
Ah - I see. Interesting - so just a different antenna resolved your issue. Like you said, I guess it's spreading out the signal enough to avoid causing the interference. I'm sure someone else will find that info very useful in the future!
My noise issues are not realted to wifi. I have interference noises in the following situations:
1. If car is not running and radio LED backlighting is on (cuases a hum through the speakers). Mainly only noticeable when no music is playing (between songs, for example) or when there are very quiet parts of the music.
2. When using my headrest monitors.
3. Anytime the system accesses USB devices. The interference is pretty noticeable when reading/writing USB thumb drives - especially if they have LEDs on them.
4. If I my Eonon USB dashcam is active, it makes a strange intference noise from the speakers. Again, really only noticeable when no music is playing, but...
None of these are huge issues in of themselves, but at the same time, it just bothers me knowing that the interference exists. I've also noticed that the overall sound quality just isn't as good as my previous WinCE-based head-units - (much more expensive units - they have 4v preouts, higher-quality DAC's, etc) - even when using an external amplifier. Never had interference noises with them, so the Android unit is really a downgrade in terms of sound-quality, which is more important to me than having Android, I guess. I was hoping that there woulnd't be much difference in sound quality when using an external amp, but there still is...
At first, I thought the Android head-unit was awesome while testng "on the bench" - until I connected it in-car and used it for a few days, then I started noticing all of the "cons" (warning chimes and turn-signal sounds are horrible, button backlighting doesn't dim with the rest of the interior lights when dimmed, screen isn't as nice or as bright as previous units, super-reflecitive screen, the noise issues mentioned above, no true dual-zone for my headrest monitors, no XM tuner, having to jump through all kind of hoops just to get music to continue playing where it left off when restarting the car, etc). When I add up all of these "cons", I'm just not sure the Android unit is worth it for me. I'll probably be going back to my WinCE head-unit very soon (Dynavin N7 or Rosen GM1010/1210). The WinCE units are not as flexible as the Android units, but the sound quality is more important to me.
I'd *gladly* pay more for a higher-quality Android head-unit, but right now, they just don't seem to exist - which is unfortunate...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello, have you found a solution, how you fix noise ?
jtrosky said:
Ah - I see. Interesting - so just a different antenna resolved your issue. Like you said, I guess it's spreading out the signal enough to avoid causing the interference. I'm sure someone else will find that info very useful in the future!
My noise issues are not realted to wifi. I have interference noises in the following situations:
1. If car is not running and radio LED backlighting is on (cuases a hum through the speakers). Mainly only noticeable when no music is playing (between songs, for example) or when there are very quiet parts of the music.
2. When using my headrest monitors.
3. Anytime the system accesses USB devices. The interference is pretty noticeable when reading/writing USB thumb drives - especially if they have LEDs on them.
4. If I my Eonon USB dashcam is active, it makes a strange intference noise from the speakers. Again, really only noticeable when no music is playing, but...
None of these are huge issues in of themselves, but at the same time, it just bothers me knowing that the interference exists. I've also noticed that the overall sound quality just isn't as good as my previous WinCE-based head-units - (much more expensive units - they have 4v preouts, higher-quality DAC's, etc) - even when using an external amplifier. Never had interference noises with them, so the Android unit is really a downgrade in terms of sound-quality, which is more important to me than having Android, I guess. I was hoping that there woulnd't be much difference in sound quality when using an external amp, but there still is...
At first, I thought the Android head-unit was awesome while testng "on the bench" - until I connected it in-car and used it for a few days, then I started noticing all of the "cons" (warning chimes and turn-signal sounds are horrible, button backlighting doesn't dim with the rest of the interior lights when dimmed, screen isn't as nice or as bright as previous units, super-reflecitive screen, the noise issues mentioned above, no true dual-zone for my headrest monitors, no XM tuner, having to jump through all kind of hoops just to get music to continue playing where it left off when restarting the car, etc). When I add up all of these "cons", I'm just not sure the Android unit is worth it for me. I'll probably be going back to my WinCE head-unit very soon (Dynavin N7 or Rosen GM1010/1210). The WinCE units are not as flexible as the Android units, but the sound quality is more important to me.
I'd *gladly* pay more for a higher-quality Android head-unit, but right now, they just don't seem to exist - which is unfortunate...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also wanted to hear if you found out the problem .. since I myself have the same...