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this weekend i took apart my car kit to try resolving the charging issue with the xda11. there is no wiring differences with the xda11, and the problem lies with the original kits charging rate. if u try placing an xda11 in the cradle, switched off, it will charge. however, if u leave the screen active, or use mp3 or gps, the battery will drain. there is no fix for this. when i realised this, i cut the power and negative leads from the loom, and patched in a cheap cigarette charger lead, which is permanently wired in. this works perfect. no wiring mods were nessecary to the loom, just replaced the live and neutral from the black box with live and neutral from the new charger. i can now use mp3 or gps or both, with charging and full sound piped into my stereo head end......exactly the same functionality as the original xda gave. it was well worth the effort
i hope this resolves this issue finally
Does this give you MP3 and Navigation sound over the car speakers?. Thanks. Peter.
to enable sound
the only way, so far , to enable sound is to insert your headphone jack plug into ur xda11, i know this requires cradle modification, but its worth it. All sound then is routed through the bottom connector, exactly the same as the xda1........i have done this, and have the car kit patched into an aux input on my car stereo. i have alos fitted a little microswitch in the mute cable, so that i can disable radio muting if im listenint to mp3, but enable it if im just using the radio, and the phone.
I do recall quite some issues with the original (=like the iMate one as sold by Expansys I assume):
1. Bad mic quality (people think I am talking with a bag over my head)
2. Only in-call sound over bottom-connector/carkit-speaker
3. When the carkit is connected to 12V for about one month, after about 20sec in a call the carkit speaker mutes (I currently have this. Workaround to resolve: disconnect the carkit for some seconds from 12V, permanent solving is via warranty repair I guess)
But I havent heard (nor experienced) about this charging issue.
I have fitted my carkit on direct / permanent 12V wires (yes I used an extra fuse there) and do not have any charging issue whatsoever. When in the carkit, the Himalaya is charged.
In the car I use the Himalaya permanently with TomTom 3 and a BT GPS. It always charges (for real! device is full again after some driving)
Also, can you give some more explanation on the headphone-trick to get all audio via the bottom-connector: Does it need to be wired. If no: any round plastic piece with diameter of 2.5mm would do then (because apparently it only needs to trigger the headset switch inside the jack socket).
I've got a problem when I plug my HTC Titan into my car stereo as well as cigarette adapter.
I'm also got a kind of custom setup using the HTC Y Adapter with a 2.5mm jack and MiniUSB jack
Audio
Honda Civic Stock Stereo -> CD Changer to Aux Input Adapter -> 3.5mm to 2.5mm adapter -> 2.5mm input on HTC Y adapter.
Power
Belkin Cig. Lighter to USB Female Port (From old iPaq) -> HTC Stock Sync/Charge USB cable -> MiniUSB input on HTC Y adapter.
So, when both the power and audio are plugged in, I hear a horrible hiss on my car stereo, not to mention a sound that varies in pitch to my throttle. When I unplug the power, the audio is completely clean. To me this seems like some kind of a grounding issue - to say that the Audio and Power both have seperate grounds, and bridging the two creates a potential difference in the form of noise on my Sound. Also to note: I only hear the noise when the Y adapter is plugged into the phone. With the audio and power plugged into the Y adapter, but the Y adapter not plugged into the phone, It's perfectly clean. I'm kind of baffeled.
The only solution I can think of is to gut the Belkin Power->USB adapter, and providing it from 12VDC elsewhere. I've got a tap directly below my passenger seat where I have a big power inverter tied to my battery. I don't know if I'd hear the same sound by grabbing my power from there.
Anyone with an engineering mindset have an idea? I'm open to suggestions.
You are right, you have a problem with ground.
I have the same problem with a mp3 player. When I plug the audio + power I have noise, just audio is fine.
You may try the inverter as it would probably filter the noise you're getting from the DC power in your car.
you just nead an in car ground loop isolator used for getting rid of noise on the low level signal to amplifiers.They are just a 1:1 audio transformer
Any incar hifi shop or ebay will have plenty.
I have the same problem, with a polaris using standard headphones. I'm thinking the polaris itself has issues dealing with audio+charging
i had the same problem with an ipod charger, sent the car to the wreckers, and woot, problem solved sorry that was no help
Usually happens when the signal wires (mm adapters + input cord) aren't shielded and pick up the magnetic field from the ground resulting in the engine noise. Sometimes, making sure the signal wires are not touching the power cord and keeping them separated might help. I'm not really sure, since I'm a 100% noob too all this. Let me know what your fix is. I'm not too hip on all the car audio stuff anymore, but if you wanna put some hydraulics in your ride, then I can definitely help you out.
more likely the problem is in the phone, so ...
Hi!
I have this for some time: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=470938811&pf_rd_i=507846
(Actually, I baught it in a store so I'm not sure it's excatly the same but it looks the same)
Recently, I baught this one:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Headphone-HTC-VIVA-exclusive-Duragadget/dp/B001LIM8F0/ref=pd_rhf_p_t_2
When I plug the old one in my HTC Touch Cruise and then stereo headphones, to it's 3.5mm jack (without microphone), I can use phone's mic and plugged headphones to talk.
When I do the same with new one I can't use phone's mic. I can hear the other side through headphones but I can't be heard.
What might be a reason for this?
And can I fix this problem somehow so I don't have to unplug headphones each time I want to talk if I'm listening to the music?
Thank you very much in advance!
P.S. FM Radio works with both adapters.
there is no std for 3.5mm mini-jack with mic included
the org spc is only audio out
some headset makers add another ring which don't interfere with the
left, right and ground connectors
but there is no std they can follow
thumb rule is if mic is not mentioned in relation with the 3.5mm adaptor
mic is not supported as they use the pure audio out mini-jack std
thumb rule 2 is if mic is mentioned but it's not the same manufactures
in both end they may not implement mic in 3.5mm the same way and it will
only work with audio out
Thank you for your quick answer but I'm not sure you understood me.
I do not use external mic.
In first case I use 3in1 adapter and my stereo headphone with 3.5mm connector without microphone.
In second case I use this simple in-line adapter and same headphones.
In first case, during call, I can hear the other side through headphones, and the other side hears me through built-in-phone microphone.
In second case, during call, I can hear the other side through headphones, but other side can't hear me.
In both cases FM radio works well. I mention this because I saw that mic and FM antenna are on the same pin in USBext (if that's important since I don't use external mic)
about fm then all it needs is an antenna connected to to it
any stereo maybe even mono connected with a wire will do
heck you can cut off the airplugs from a cable and use it for fm
normaly when one connects a headset speaker and mic on the device itself
are muted
even if it's a headset without mic so cool that your fist case works at all
This first one adapter is original HTC. It has 2.5mm, 3.5mm, USBext for data and charging and USBext for headset connectors. And unfortunately it is too big for any other use except in car (to connect to car's audio aux input) or at home (to connect to home AV reciever).
So I baught this cheap simple in-line adapter. And it is suprisingly well built. And it works great as stereo adapter. Only problem is that it turns of microphone.
Anyhow I did some additional testing.
I tried SE Xperia X1 since it has built in 3.5mm connector. and it works like this first one. That means microphone works.
I also tried plugging this first adapter into my touch cruise and then plugging this second adapter into it's USBext for headset. The result is the same as if I plug second adapter directly into touch cruise. Microphone doesn't work.
Interesting thing is that in all cases (including Xperia) when I listen to the music with external headphones soudn comes only out of them. But when phone starts ringing sound comes from both headphones and from built-in-phone external speaker.
!!! Maybe the most important thing is that microphone doesn't work even if only second adapter is plugged into the phone, without headphones plugged in it.
Obviously this second non-HTC adapter doesn't work as HTC originally planned that kind of adapter to work and now I need a way to fix this.
It seems to me that this adapter is maybe stereo adapter with mic, but I don't have that kind of headset to try it. And if I had it I'm not sure it would be the right one since there's no standard for them.
As I see it when I plug in adapter phone somehow detects it and changes some registry key which mutes microphone.
Does anybody know what to change in registry so that phone doesn't mute microphone?
Or how can I see what changes in registry when I plug in the adapter?
Do you think if I manage to fix this, will that affect bluetooth headset also?
Thank you very much for any help!
I'm after an adapter to work with my WinMo device which allows me to connect up my own Mic.
The one that almost fits the bill is this ExtUSB 3-in-1 Adaptor but the problem is with the Mic!
I have my own Mic already wired in and a fair way from where the adapter is going to be located. Ideally, I just need a 3.5mm jack for the Mic to go into, just like the 3.5mm jack for the audio out.
The final result being I have a handsfree solution in the car, connected up through the car stereo speakers and a handsfree mic.
Can anyone see any issues with this setup? Does anyone know where I can obtain such an adapter?
1) I tried that adapter with my Touch PRO and it messed up somehow the audio managment so after plugging it in once - after receiving a call I could speak but the device become totally unresponsive only reset worked until a next call... so I hard reseted device and bought the HTC original one.
2) You might get a ground loop when using audio together with charging. I have had it with different cars, devices (laptops/handhelds). The ground loop will give you loud unwanted digital noise while charging. There are workarounds but might not be easy to reach. Basically you need to get the power from the SAME WIRE as the amplifier does.
I have this exact setup in my car and it does work, no feedback problems. I also have the same problem of microphone placement. I have been unable to find an adaptor or a microphone with a long enough wire to do what I wanted, so I had to modify my microphone placement(put it on the dash as oppossed to my sun visor where I wanted it). Other than that issue, it does work great, sounds great over the stereo(both phone calls and music), and charges up at the same time. If you do find either an adaptor or a stupid mini usb microphone with about a 4 foot wire, let me know.
bsell1 said:
I have this exact setup in my car and it does work, no feedback problems. I also have the same problem of microphone placement. I have been unable to find an adaptor or a microphone with a long enough wire to do what I wanted, so I had to modify my microphone placement(put it on the dash as oppossed to my sun visor where I wanted it). Other than that issue, it does work great, sounds great over the stereo(both phone calls and music), and charges up at the same time. If you do find either an adaptor or a stupid mini usb microphone with about a 4 foot wire, let me know.
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How about the charging?... Is there any change in the audio when plugging in? Try lowering the vol of device as low as possible and maximize the vol of amp.
not at all. The way I have it set up, it is charging or powered the whole time. Of the 3 inputs on the adaptor, one goes to the aux in on my car stereo, one goes to a car power adaptor I installed under the dash, and the 3rd goes to the microphone. I have bluetooth on, so it works with the gps reciever I have(I have an older model without built in gps) and I programed 1 of the buttons to turn on the gps program. Another button is programed to turn on the audio player(I think it is pocket player), which feeds audio to the car stereo anytime I have the aux button pressed on the car stereo. When a phone call comes in, the song pauses and all I have to do is hit the little green answer button on the phone to use it as a speakerphone. Audio is great. I have all the wires snake into one of those little pockets on the dash so there are not a lot of wires going everywhere. Takes about 5-10 seconds to set it up when I get in the car, and about 3 seconds to disconnect when I leave.
Can anyone recommend a good 3.5mm Bluetooth adapter for my car.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda premium
I got the scosche by adapter from walmart for $36. It plugs into the 3.5mm jack and works well for audio streaming. Calls not so much.
Dicho por el E4GT de Latinmaxima con Tapatalk.
All bluetooth adapters suck. I've tried 10+ different A2DP capable adapters over the course of 2 years and all simply ruin the high frequencies. Nothing beats hardwired Aux cable if you actually care about sound quality...
Google "tunelink"
A little pricey, but worth it for the audio quality. Plus, it is only for streaming audio.... No speakerphone function...
pojieps said:
Google "tunelink"
A little pricey, but worth it for the audio quality. Plus, it is only for streaming audio.... No speakerphone function...
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Sorry, but this is just a gimmick for those without knowledge in my opinion. Other than the bluetooth function, which there are a million of those out there, a person could just plug a male to male 3.5mm stereo plug into the phone to the AUX port in the car if its available.
chrisnosleep said:
Sorry, but this is just a gimmick for those without knowledge in my opinion. Other than the bluetooth function, which there are a million of those out there, a person could just plug a male to male 3.5mm stereo plug into the phone to the AUX port in the car if its available.
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I actually own it... I get WAY better quality over the bluetooth connection than I do with a direct line in. The headphone jack on your phone is designed for just that... headphones. Lining in directly reflects this. Wish there was a way for you to give it a try. I am kind of a sound snob, and I love mine. Plus, all you have to do is get in the car and once the bluetooth pairing happens, the app will open your music app and start playing.
Not trying to push this thing on ya. Just wanted you to know, I own one, and I am not "without knowledge"
Motorola Rokr T505 is small, does well with calls and music playing through blank FM stations to your car stereo. Best $40 investments plus NO CHORDS!
I had this one and used it with my EVO. Worked pretty well.
http://www.amazon.com/Miccus-BluBridge-Mini-Jack-Bluetooth-Bluetooth-Enabled/dp/B0038MA11U
I tried an AUX cable on three different phones. There was always a high pitched whine through my speakers. I started using a Samsung HM3500 plugged into the same AUX jack and got better quality music with no whine. Plus, no extra cable running through my car to the dash mount.
Did you guys all just have a car stereo that had bluetooth built in? I have an '05 Bonneville GXP but the stereo has neither a aux port or bluetooth capability...Major sad face...I really don't want to replace the stereo either because it's nice and fits the look of the car - would look stupid with anything other than a big touchscreen replacement and that's just too expensive.
Any suggestions?
You could get an FM modulator that would allow you to add a line in via your radio antenna, but they don't have great sound quality.
DutchDogg54 said:
Did you guys all just have a car stereo that had bluetooth built in? I have an '05 Bonneville GXP but the stereo has neither a aux port or bluetooth capability...Major sad face...I really don't want to replace the stereo either because it's nice and fits the look of the car - would look stupid with anything other than a big touchscreen replacement and that's just too expensive.
Any suggestions?
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Yes, just swap out the headunit for one with bluetooth build-in. Just make sure it supports A2DP (music streaming over bluetooth). I got mine from Amazon for $140, Sony MEX-BT3900U, and it been simply great. A2DP for bluetooth streaming, Aux port for wired 3.5mm audio, and it has USB port for charging the phone.
High Pitched whine is a POWER ISSUE
unplug your phone and it should go away. IE change chargers.
nerys71 said:
High Pitched whine is a POWER ISSUE
unplug your phone and it should go away. IE change chargers.
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Not all the time. My car had that problem and there were many other factors at fault.
Here are few things to look out for:
If your car has an amplifier in the rear, make sure that the headunit-to-amplifier audio cables are at least few feet away from power wires (aka, run them on the opposite side of the car than the power cables).
Make sure that the headunit is properly grounded. If that still doesn't help, run both headunit's + and - power wires directly to the car battery.
If problem still persists, repeat #2 but for the amp (if you have it).
If all above failed, it's time to invest in a better headunit. Your old one sucks and can't suppress the noise generated by the chassy/alternator.
I had crappy stock headunit and weaka$$ stock amp that would always make the static and constant whine problems. Ended up completely redoing the car audio system. Now, even with the headunit not grounded audio quality is PERFECT.
Here are the prices for my audio remodeling, all items bought brand new:
- Sony MEX-BT3900U. Headunit with CD, Aux, Handsfree Phone, Bluetooth A2DP audio, USB ($140)
- Hifonics ZXi80.4. Amplifier with 4 channels, 80W RMS per channel ($134)
- Alpine SPS-600 speakers. 6.5" 2-way speakers, 80W RMS ($50 ea)
- Stinger Pro 3 Series Snake. 6-channel, 20 feet RCA snake that goes from headunit to the amp in the rear ($35)
- 2x22' 8AWG battery-to-amp power wire
- 2x18' 12AWG amp-to-headunit power wire
- 4x18' 16AWG amp-to-front speaker wires
- 4x2' 16AWG amp-to-rear speaker wires
- 30A fuse in the engine bay
I ran the power cables on the left side of the car and ran the RCA snake on the right. everything was exactly $525 and I did all work myself (it's quite easy if you ask). now the sound quality in my used-to-be-audio-hell car is dam near perfect now and has absolutely no noise/static at all. you can jack the volume up crazy high without any distortions for like 80Hz+. 80Hz and below can be a problem when maxing out the volume as the speakers are only 6.5" and weren't meant to deliver bass. don't get me wrong, they do make nice bass but just don't handle it too well when playing it very loud.
after years of running this setup I'd say this was one of the best investments i've ever made. my car is built for drifting so it is setup very stiff and shakes/jumps like crazy when dailying (300mi/week) and when i do take it out for a spin the amount of stress it sees it crazy. after all this time you'd think at least some wires would come loose but nope, everything is still running perfect.
so yeah, if you actually care about sound quality in your car and would like it to last, just redo it from scratch. it's fun and is totally worth it
Not trying to pick a fight but lets be clear here
If your car has an amplifier in the rear, make sure that the headunit-to-amplifier audio cables are at least few feet away from power wires (aka, run them on the opposite side of the car than the power cables).
Which is a power issue
Make sure that the headunit is properly grounded.
Which is a power issue
If that still doesn't help, run both headunit's + and - power wires directly to the car battery.
Which is a power issue
If problem still persists, repeat #2 but for the amp (if you have it).
If all above failed, it's time to invest in a better headunit.
Which is a power issue
Your old one sucks and can't suppress the noise generated by the chassy/alternator.
Which is a power issue
See what I mean?
Cars make a lot of "NOISE" this noise is a power issue. it comes from your alternator and your coil and your spark plugs IE "POWER ISSUES"
if you have bad grounds or are lacking noise suppression (cheap equipment old equipment etc.. etc..) or an older car making a TON of extra noise etc.. etc..
Power inverters (especially cheap ones) are notorious for "dirty power" that lets in noise.
when I power my phone off the USB on the cheap inverter's USB port I get big time whine noises painful even.
use the USB port in the radio and I get no noise (but then it tries to "READ" the phone instead of just charging it and won't let me use aux hehe
Sometimes you can get a coil thing to add to power to reduce this noise but usually its just cheap equipment ($7 power inverter
plug a 110v to usb adapter into same inverter and no noise. The 110v adapter isolates and prevents the noise leakage.
nerys71 said:
Not trying to pick a fight but lets be clear here
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haha time to clear up a misunderstanding here. my reply was referring to the "unplug your phone and it should go away" statement and thus assuming that you, by saying "its a power issue", were referring only to the inverter that was powering the phone at times getting a better quality inverter (aka, one that has capacitor or capacitor-pack to smooth out the voltage spikes and noise) is sufficient and at times it is not. I've experienced both. it's also worth mentioning that after redoing my sound system even the crappiest of crap inverters works just fine
frifox said:
Yes, just swap out the headunit for one with bluetooth build-in. Just make sure it supports A2DP (music streaming over bluetooth). I got mine from Amazon for $140, Sony MEX-BT3900U, and it been simply great. A2DP for bluetooth streaming, Aux port for wired 3.5mm audio, and it has USB port for charging the phone.
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Click to collapse
Yeah, I've looked into those kind of replacements...plenty out there for reasonable prices but they would completely mar the aesthetic value of the nice interior of my Bonny. That's why I was saying that only the touchscreens that would fill the whole double (might be 1.5) din stereo spot in my car would do.
Thanks, both of you guys, for your responses...guess I'm stuck waiting till I get a much newer car
I'm not saying that you're wrong about it being a power issue, but the BT headset I mentioned came with an adapter for an AUX jack and that solved my problem. So, either solution works.
the issue is the radio is connected to the same "power source" that your "phone" is now connected to.
so if any component in that chain does not control the power noise (that is what the noise is coming from your power system)
you INJECT that noise into your audio stream the moment you "link" the devices together (power not audio)
this is why if you use a seperate battery pack to charge the phone you will not get this noise. your battery pack is "isolated" from the car's power system literally physically.
I am only talking about the typical whine pop crackle high pitched noise you get the moment you plug in your charger. IE clear no noise plug in chargers Head burster sounds start coming out of your speakers
that noise is a "power issue" you can't eliminate the power issues (except by eliminating your alternator??) but you can filter it. some devices (chargers) do this better than others
the BT unit works because you "broke" the chain. (no audio cable going from the PHONE to the RADIO)
Again, I'm not denying what you're saying. You're absolutely correct. However, OP was asking for the best BT unit to plug into the jack, not how to solve the issues with cables and power sources. I was simply providing my opinion and experience along the lines of what he was asking for.