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Hello guys,
I thought i might share with u my pain. The camera on my desire is not working, it shows only black screen whenever i launch it. Downgrading to 2.1 stock didnt help. Didnt work either in the ota 2.2 rooted rom. By matter of exlusion the only thing left is hw issue. Therefore, as i have no warranty, in a desperate attempt to fix it i bought a camera module on ebay. I am not sure that the problem is in the module exactly, but anyway there is no way to isolate it perfectly. So i saw an official htc video for disassembling (looks quite scary ). My question is - does anyone have experience with replacing parts? Any suggestions are highly appreciated.
Sent from my HTC Desire using XDA App
just done it today with mine had same problem black screen on camera , only advice is to take your time and be gentle as its pretty straight forward.
gluck
I have to regretfully annoumce that after replacing the camera i still have the same black screen in both android froyo and gb custom roms. However when i was replacing it, i saw quite a lot of oxidized metal on the pins inside the camera slot. Tried to clean them but definitely did not do a good job. I am the second owner of the phone so i have no idea if it was water damaged.... But its definitely very strange to find it there.. so probably there is lack of good contact. Any idea about a safe way to clean the pins?
Sent from my HTC Desire using XDA Premium App
ok, just a short update and conclusion:
after some googling I decided I will try to clean the pins up with rubber and a needle. First scratch with the rubber, after that with the needle (to remove the oxidized surface). However as the pins are very very very fragile :-D (and the fact that they were heavily oxidized definitely helped), 6 of them just fall even by the softest touch by rubber/needle (believe me, after the first one fell I became even more careful). So, after that I spent approximately 5 hours replacing the broken pins with wire from an old audiocable that I had around.
To my "surprise", when I turned the phone on the camera still showed the same old black screen. At this point I gave up and declared that I will not have camera on my desire
So, anyone interested in buying a brand new camera module for desire? :-D
HTC Desire camera module
Hi there sorry to bring back a old post but searched high and low and this seemed the best place to ask how does the Camera module fit to the board is it cable or are the pins u mentioned soldered onto the board any help with this would be much appreciated before i go in and rip this handset apart to try replace the camera module Thanks in advance for any help offered
Scott
Simaka
I had this problem after I had the screen replaced, which I cracked. The technician damaged the flex cable while he was working on it. Luckily he admitted his error when he checked it and replaced it. So maybe it is the flex cable.
Scott
Can't help with they one. Sorry mate.
Sent from my HTC Desire using XDA App
Hi all. In need of a bit of advice here. Hope this is in the right forum.
My beloved DHD has suffered from one too many falls. Despite being protected in an Otterbox Commuter case, he now lies on his deathbed. Even though I was considering an upgrade, I'm thinking I might want to stretch out his life for as long as possible instead. So I've come here to ask for repair advice.
- The phone seems structurally sound from the outside, no damage besides minor aesthetic scratches from before the phone was protected by the Otterbox.
- It appears to boot. Makes the vibration noise etc. Heck the alarm even went off the other morning, at the set time of 0630.
- Screen does not function at all. Lifeless. But not broken in any way externally. Because of this, had to pull the battery to shut the alarm off.
- When plugged in to charge, charging light indicator does not illuminate.
Any ideas?
Sent from my nipple running windows 95 NT.
Cheers, although I'm gonna try a different approach for now.
Any ideas? Can anyone point me in the right direction of some advice?
Sounds like 2 things. Broken lcd and a broken charging port. It wouldn't be worth repairing. You could buy one second hand on ebay for aboot £120.
Sent from my nipple running windows 95 NT.
Thanks for that. Considering trying to sell it broken, for parts. Only thing that concerns me is any sensitive data that may be readily accessed by someone who knows how to get to it.
Is there a way to wipe it?
You could use another dhd with the same firmware and copy the key/button presses and reset it in bootloader mode.
Sent from my laser emitting mammary glands.
Could also be that the connector for the screen has been dislodged due to being drop to many times you mite try opening it up and see if it is that.
lincolnep said:
Could also be that the connector for the screen has been dislodged due to being drop to many times you mite try opening it up and see if it is that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, thanks for the response. So I assume you're referring to this part here?
http://www.parts4repair.com/htc-desire-hd-lcd-screen-fpc-connector/
Seen in this disassembly video from the 3:05 minute mark?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JfatoeWbMRk
bump...
I have a problem similar to yours. But in my case, I'd turned the phone off to go to the cinema and the LCD and touch never turned on again.
In order to erase your data, did you try overwriting a stock rom? (In case it's just the charging LED that is broken)
That sucks! Self detonating phone. Does yours still vibrate and 'turn on'?
Haven't actually managed to clear the data. I'm ordering this part here (http://www.parts4repair.com/htc-desire-hd-lcd-screen-fpc-connector/) and I'm going to attempt to pull it apart and fix it.
If I can get it to work again I'll sell the One V I'm using and go back to the old faithful!
Well this saves me from starting a new thread haha
Anyway i am having the exact same problem as you have.
My dad brought home a Desire HD from work wich was not working so i am trying to fix it.
The phone boots, it vibrates ones and after a minute it makes the boot sound.
But nothing responses and the lights wont turn on.
Also no charging light..
Also it does not charge but usb does connect.
Could this be the FPC connector or the screen?
Hmmm...interesting, exact same issue as mine.
Well, I've ordered the FPC connector replacement part I linked above...going to attempt to play around with it when it arrives and see if I can breathe new life into the phone. So I can tell you how that goes...
Although:
1. Would the charging light and screen problem be connected? Is this feasible? Or does it suggest something else is likely shot?
2. I believe the FPC connector requires a solder to replace. This could be a bit ambitious on my part to attempt to repair...any ideas on what sort of a solder would be suitable?
Sent from my HTC One V using xda premium
suitup said:
Hmmm...interesting, exact same issue as mine.
Well, I've ordered the FPC connector replacement part I linked above...going to attempt to play around with it when it arrives and see if I can breathe new life into the phone. So I can tell you how that goes...
Although:
1. Would the charging light and screen problem be connected? Is this feasible? Or does it suggest something else is likely shot?
2. I believe the FPC connector requires a solder to replace. This could be a bit ambitious on my part to attempt to repair...any ideas on what sort of a solder would be suitable?
Sent from my HTC One V using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no clean flux core solder would work best, preferably something very thin (about .015"). A small bottle of noclean flux would also help and you probably will need lead free solder as that is likely what they used on the board to begin with, and lead and leadfree dont typically mix as well.
Thanks for the quick reply...
Something like this?
http://www.oritech.com.au/productDetail.aspx?productID=23244
What sort of iron would be suited? Would any of these suit?
http://www.oritech.com.au/categories.aspx?categoryID=321
Would you say it'd be a difficult process? I've soldered before, but a that was a while ago in high school...
Also the cost of all this equipment will far outweigh the cost of the $3 FPC connector spare!
suitup said:
Thanks for the quick reply...
Something like this?
http://www.oritech.com.au/productDetail.aspx?productID=23244
What sort of iron would be suited? Would any of these suit?
http://www.oritech.com.au/categories.aspx?categoryID=321
Would you say it'd be a difficult process? I've soldered before, but a that was a while ago in high school...
Also the cost of all this equipment will far outweigh the cost of the $3 FPC connector spare!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes, those should both work fine. ya it is costly for equipment. i have a edsyn iron i use at home and solder i get from work. i would say it can be tricky, i havent seen the connector but im sure its similar to other inline ribbon connectors. remember, short burst soldering, heating it for too long will take the pad off the pcb, and repairing THAT can become very difficult.
suitup said:
Hmmm...interesting, exact same issue as mine.
Well, I've ordered the FPC connector replacement part I linked above...going to attempt to play around with it when it arrives and see if I can breathe new life into the phone. So I can tell you how that goes...
Although:
1. Would the charging light and screen problem be connected? Is this feasible? Or does it suggest something else is likely shot?
2. I believe the FPC connector requires a solder to replace. This could be a bit ambitious on my part to attempt to repair...any ideas on what sort of a solder would be suitable?
Sent from my HTC One V using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. We have a spare DHD with broken glass here wich my sister is using unter her SGS is back from repair. Will swap the motherboard when her phone is back.
Sent from my HTC Vision using xda premium
Hello!
I just finish to "unglued" my digitizer cable on my note 2 ,
Please, just take a look at the picture, maybe can I do something to put it back.
Look like unglued..have you any idea if that flex cable it's glued or soldered ?
Thank you very much.
Wow.. I just did the exact same thing yesterday.. same spot on the cable and everything. I did it when I was replacing the glass.. I've tried taping it back.. and now I've tried gluing it , the touch kinda works but really inconsistent and annoying. I've spent way too much time trying to fix it and think I'm just gonna sell as parts now. What did you end up doing? Any luck getting it reattached? If you were successful please let me know what you did.
tri0xinn said:
Wow.. I just did the exact same thing yesterday.. same spot on the cable and everything. I did it when I was replacing the glass.. I've tried taping it back.. and now I've tried gluing it , the touch kinda works but really inconsistent and annoying. I've spent way too much time trying to fix it and think I'm just gonna sell as parts now. What did you end up doing? Any luck getting it reattached? If you were successful please let me know what you did.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For me, was no way to put back this flex cable... and I think its close to impossible to make something good with this display.
I just stored that display ....for don't throw it.
Good luck!
this is a usual ribbon cable. i teared mine replacing the screen... will try to replace it and report back.
maybe it will require light smd oven soldering and that will suck big time. maybe i can just pressure it down somehow. your cases are much better, you still have the original cable and half of it is already soldered making it much easier to solder the rest.
gcbxda said:
this is a usual ribbon cable. i teared mine replacing the screen... will try to replace it and report back.
maybe it will require light smd oven soldering and that will suck big time. maybe i can just pressure it down somehow. your cases are much better, you still have the original cable and half of it is already soldered making it much easier to solder the rest.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have do the exact same thing,
Is this going to work?
cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140945664484&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en
Thanks
Goathier said:
I have do the exact same thing,
Is this going to work?
cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140945664484&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
probably. i hope you haven't glued the glass already
edit, actually that one probably have that ribon cable already attached. i can only see the plug that clips on the motherboard(?)... not sure that is what you want
Goathier said:
I have do the exact same thing,
Is this going to work?
cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140945664484&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thats not the same part, the part u listed on ebay is for the stylus. U can easily tell its not the same part as shown in the original post. Check out this youtube video at the 20:50 minute mark, it will show u the exact parts and u can tell. Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxgZeb5QytM
Unfortunatly the part the original poster pictured is part of the digitizer and is near impossible to fix once ripped. all ive been able to find online is that ribbon cable being sold with the digitizer itself. If anyone else actually finds the part shown in the original post please do post back.
Hi
Sorry for my english, I'm hungarian, this is the best I can do.
So I bought a cheap (but not too cheap) SM-P905, but I can't get the screen to work properly.
The touch layer, the spen, the backlight works well, I managed to mirror the screen on my pc and everything else seems to be okay.
I got off the back cover, I tried to unplug and reattach every flex cable, even the battery. I tried to look everything under magnifying glass to see what could be the problem.
The lcd flex connector looks like this under my lens.
(Upload it in the next post, not working from the android app)
I tried to clean it with a needle, but it still looks like it is corroded or melted.
Is it possible that replacing this connector will get the screen back to normal? (I found flex connector replacement on the internet)
Or is it possible to repair it with some jumpers or something like this?
Is it melted because of some shorted circuit somewhere else, or because of a bad micro capacitor?
How and where can I locate and resolve this problem (s)? Maybe is it still the lcd that is simply dead and I can't bring it back to life?
I dont want to buy a screen, and a motherboard (neither only one of them )
Thank you for your help!
Okay the forum doesnt let me to insert links or photos, because I'm new here -.-
/s/53oab9sykbihn32/20151021_175009.jpg?dl=0 write dropbox dot com in front of link
https://www.dropbox.com/s/53oab9sykbihn32/20151021_175009.jpg?dl=0
In my opinion it died!!
I hoped for better opinions
I wanted to know how this thing can die?
It has to be caused by something.
Bad resistor/capacitor? Is it on the motherboard or on the lcd's circuitboard?? Or is it only the corroded flex connector??
I dont want to throw the whole tablet in the trash. Everything else is just operating fine.
If nobody can answer this, where should I write, where people can help with these very small components / resoldering / measuring what gone wrong here?
Alan-B said:
In my opinion it died!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So today I measured the pins in worst condition. There are 2 pins that I tought can cause the problem and looks corroded. (Number 5 and 9 from the right) Both of them !are not used!. (There is a total of 3 pins that are not used on the connector/cable)
They are not lead through the flex cable, they have no function here.
So the problem comes from somewhere else, but I still don't know why they look like this.
Maybe I will try to seperate the screen from the body and look at it closer and its connectors/smaller circuit boards.
Sent from my SM-N9005 using XDA Free mobile app
Hmm, that pic does not make me think its a corrosion problem. At best, it can lead to a finicky connection, but there seems to be enough there for proper electrical contact. If this were a headphone jack, for example, I would say apply pressure near the cable to see if the headset works properly, and if it does, then I know its a cable problem. No idea if you can try to apply pressure to the cable and see if the LCD turns on.
If the screen mirrors on the TV successfully, then there are a bunch of Samsung Service Codes you can use to test the LCD. Unfortunately I do not know them for this model, but google should get you the service menu very easily. There is definitely a test in there for the LCD that should give you a better idea what to expect.
If the cable is pretty cheap, I would also just pick up one and try replacing. Nothing to lose! AND if you have access to another identical device, you can try to stick this LCD on that device to see if its the LCD thats the problem or the motherboard.
Lastly, I would want to know if the glass on that LCD has ever been replaced. If they did a glass only replacement, its possible they overheated the LCD ... OR used too much LOCA glue that shorted the connectors.
Many possibilities, so I wouldn't call it a day yet. First, look for the service menu, thats the best place to begin.
I will try the service codes.
Unfortunately I don't have more devices. The easiest way would be to test the identical parts on a working one, but I don't know anyone who would risk his/her tablet for this
The other thing I can do is to get another lcd-glass unit from ebay or from ifixit and try it. If the problem was the lcd, it should work, I'm happy, but if its black, I will have (maybe) 2 working lcd units for sale. Or I have to get a new motherboard (sounds expansive).
I don't think that they replaced the glass on this device, it looks very used and scratchy, so it was working before.
Thank you for taking your time for me and answering my dumb questions!!
Sent from my SM-N9005 using XDA Free mobile app
There are more good news than bad, so I'm very happy.
So 1-2 days ago I started to get off the screen to see if I can seperate the LCD from the receiver. Turned out its not that hard. The only hard thing is to get it off the body in one piece. Lots of heating with a hair drier, and a LOT OF PATIENCE. If you can get it off in one piece you are on your way.
Seperating the glass from the LCD is very easy, did it in 10 minutes, I don't think it needs heating...
So I did it, then I saw some water damage (white things) on the back side of the LCD. There is a small board here too, so I cleaned the white thing off with some alcohol.
Then I put the lcd back and voilá, Its WORKING!!!
The only problem is that I damaged the touch screen glass, so I need to order a new one, but its under 20$ so no problem.
Thank you all for your help, I hope that I finished here
Sent from my SM-N9005 using XDA Free mobile app
Good to know! Thank you for the update
Other solution is remove battery five minute and reconnect battery
I saw this on Chinese forum and it is weird that nobody mention it here
For those battery that cause boot looping problem there's a way to fix it.
First, remove the battery cap
You'll see the metal in the red circle was connected by a conductive glue something like that
i. imgur. com/2Lt1WdE. jpg
(well the forum says I'm new so I can't post link, it will be thankful if there's anyone who can paste this on the reply)
The problem causing looping was because it gets old can the resistance goes up and so affect the battery when it needs to drain lot of power.
Second, use knife or what everto separate the metal plate on the ic board and battery(cut the conductive glue), then remove the conductive glue on both side of the metal plate(ic board and batter) like the picture shown
i. imgur. com/8oPYGja .jpg
(Same reason as above)
Three, solder them together with soldering iron and replace the battery cover back, done.
Now you saved a battery.
Well, I can't find a button for me to attach the photo I took for explanation....
its work
I tried this method before see this post.
but I connected the battery's - directly with battery.
now I follow this method and it's work
thanks
I just ordered a new battery from LG for $15.
JMak00 said:
I just ordered a new battery from LG for $15.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Those batteries are still working well, just the glue part gets old and not functioning well.
Did this fix a few days ago, but i soldered the metal to the upper contact point instead of the lower one. Works good since then. I also bought a new battery that is migth be faulty (always showing 25.0-25.8 c° only, does somebody know why?)
beninho97 said:
Did this fix a few days ago, but i soldered the metal to the upper contact point instead of the lower one. Works good since then. I also bought a new battery that is migth be faulty (always showing 25.0-25.8 c° only, does somebody know why?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought some unofficial manufactured G2 battery and found it has same phenomenon as yours.
I think it's just because of diffreent ic in the battery.
sniperx1211 said:
I saw this on Chinese forum and it is weird that nobody mention it here
For those battery that cause boot looping problem there's a way to fix it.
First, remove the battery cap
You'll see the metal in the red circle was connected by a conductive glue something like that
i. imgur. com/2Lt1WdE. jpg
(well the forum says I'm new so I can't post link, it will be thankful if there's anyone who can paste this on the reply)
The problem causing looping was because it gets old can the resistance goes up and so affect the battery when it needs to drain lot of power.
Second, use knife or what everto separate the metal plate on the ic board and battery(cut the conductive glue), then remove the conductive glue on both side of the metal plate(ic board and batter) like the picture shown
i. imgur. com/8oPYGja .jpg
(Same reason as above)
Three, solder them together with soldering iron and replace the battery cover back, done.
Now you saved a battery.
Well, I can't find a button for me to attach the photo I took for explanation....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My d855 was with two batteries with this problem, I did what is taught in the tutorial and both work perfectly now. I would like to know just what are the risks in the future.
Meanwhile I'm using two new batteries after the procedure.
I have few questions. What kind of wire did you use to jump solder the contacts, also how did you close the cover?