After examining the motherboard points, I came up with two EDL test points
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Well, heck. Those suckers are labelled as large as life.
But I do have a point.
With Qualcomm it has to do with a GPIO pin.
On my SDM636 it's GPIO57.
I've only seen GPIOs with a pull-down and a 1.8V source nearby.
So, if you're looking for EDL test points for something different, look for one point measuring 0V and another measuring 1.8V.
OTOH, it's easier to just find one point.
You can use a fresh AA or AAA battery (~1.55V) with a resistor to just find the GPIO.
Go from ground -> battery-, battery+ -> resistor, resistor -> GPIO
Use a 1k to 2.2k resistor, you won't hurt anything but it will be assertive enough.
I'm not totally sure that the GPIO number is fixed per SoC and not configurable in the OEM OTP.
But if you had (for example) a working SDM636 device, I'd go look for GPIO57 while your device is still working.
You have to be rooted though.
Code:
# ./edlcheck
0 1 0 1 0 1 0
Mmm, I'll generalize this and give it an argument if anybody wants.
Related
On the bottom left of the motherboard in this picture:
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What is that small silver block for, and what do I use to reattach it? Solder?
Thanks!
ok, after more research (thanks to the repair manual which I've attached) I've figured out what this component is called, but still no idea what it is for. Looks like there are 2 of these, one on each side of the motherboard, so if it's not necessary I can live without it.
Component is called "Filter 0.0 Hz 0402", what is that for?
The manual also says to remove/mount using Hot Air, but this is territory I don't have experience with. Do I need some kind of glue/paste to spread before using a heat gun to remount it?
Err I think it's a microphone.
Ok, yeah, I have figured out it's a microphone, and it seems to be the primary one facing in (positioned in the spot where your mouth would be when you talk on the phone), with the secondary facing out for when recording video...
Which brings up the question, how do I mount it? I'm being told that the for "pegs" of the microphone need to remain separately attached to the MB, so some glue wouldn't work since that would make it one big connection like a heatsink. Any ideas?
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Wireless charging seems to be a new and fashion technology, cool and modern. But truthfully , this technology has been used for over 100 years in other areas, sure you’ve heard its name: TRANSFORMER
How does a transformer work? I’m sure you’ve learned on your physical class. Don’t remember? OK, check the picture below, it’ll help you understand.
This is a simple sketch map for the theory of transformer. Power transfer in 3 steps Electricity à Magnetic à Electricity. This is exactly how wireless charge works.
We have a transmitter and a receiver in every wireless charge situation. Only they are separated in a charge pad(transmitter) and a cellphone(receiver).
This seems simple, but it’s not. The most important places in this technology are:
1. Power --- transfer enough power for loader
2. Distance --- increase transfer distance
3. Efficiency --- decrease waste energy
4. Target --- recognize transfer target
5. Heat --- decrease heat while transfer
We now can get wireless power in a few situations, such as some electric vehicle, and cellphones. We believe that in the future, thank to our scientists and engineers’ brilliant idea and hard working, we may get rid of all cables and have unlimited power.
...
About the antenna connector. It's strange but p8 lite don't have any of those things so there isn't any thing to replace, check this out if you want
https://youtu.be/goz4hDW1UeQ
...
...
cmmx said:
Turns out (as I suspected!), those batteries are a fraud. Here's what's underneath - yep, just a regular 2200mAh battery with a fake sticker over it (pic from Aliexpress):
No wonder...: Buying Batteries in China (Caveat Emptor) - china_batteries.pdf
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for Sharing this Information with us.? I wanted to buy this, but now I won't.
...
cmmx said:
Don't know if they're for an antenna, but the phone definitely has two similar connectors; check the pic:
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Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These connectors are for production testing and not intended for customer use. They have a switching blade inside that disconnects the pcb antenna and route the line from the transceiver to the center contact. This switch is not made for multiple actions and can be broken easily. The result will be: No connection to existing antenna = less signal.
With no or an out-of-specs antenna the TX PA may be operated in unspecified SWR and power rating, soon blowing it, not to mention possible EIRP excess and so on.
Another problem is the RX LNA are usually not ESD proof. Touch of death. No signal.
So homemade wire antennas are not a good idea.
Hi,
I just got an Note 8 Pro and been playing around with it and it seems the easiest way out is to root and install a another rom, but i'm just curious about the meter you can activate that shows if you data is in use, mine is NEVER at 0 basically, it can hit to 0 a few seconds but usually its higher, jumping 0.1KB/s - 4.0KB/s, I do not use any social media apps - none.
I have tried press Deny and Cancel and NOT using Mi Cloud and stuff like that so what could it be?
In battery usage Android System is using 19% that is the most, i've read that it needs a few recycles and it'll stabilize(?) but my battery feel alright, so why would Android system draw less after a few recycles? I'm at 60% after 18h last charge. 4hS oT
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Is there anything to do? I dowloaded a packet sniffer and i see some Mi.App.Chat-app stuff( i'm not using it) going through Amazon servers and a lot of chinese characters so i'm not sure what im looking at...
IMG does not work...
https:// cdn-21.minfil.com/U5b326Ban5/0692fc6d-1574466844/Screenshot_2019-11-23-00-38-46-680_cn.wps.xiaomi.abroad.lite.jpg
Just root and start over again to install "all" my stuff?
I made my shield remote rechargeable
Parts used
1 x AMS 1117 3.3V voltage regulator
1 x Charge controller - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0836J8LR4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
1 x USB Type C breakout board
Adafruits powerboost charger would be better. The one i used doesn't output 5v unless a certain current threshold is met, or you push a button that only lasts ~30 sceonds. This is why I connected BAT directly to the voltage regulator and the battery. The voltage regulator might work as a over-discharge protection for the battery so I'm not too worried about this setup. The chip on the charge controller is an IP5306, which is terrible because of that design flaw. Apparently custom versions of this chip were made with an always on function or with i2c to set this, neither of which are features of the one shipping with all ip5306 products. All leds were removed from the regulator and charge controller to save battery. having them didn't meet the required current draw for always on 5v out anyways. I don't have a charge/charging indicator but idrc. Itd be easy to solder on an led but i dont want it.
Wiring is in pictures
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Thanks for this guide, i've a few friends who are electrical engineers and could knock this out in 1 day for me.
HAS ANYONE ELSE MADE THIS OR DONE 1 OF THERE OWN DESIGN ?
I just used rechargeable AAA batteries... It was a lot easier