Good morning all.
After muuuuuch frustration I have discovered that the 5ghz hotspot on these phones (and many others apparently) is restricted to ch149. This isn't an issue for most of my devices that are in range of the hotspot. But I have a couple of devices that rely on my Wi-Fi extender and I now understand that the extender (tplink re200 and re315) cannot "see" channel 149 at all. Operating the hotspot previously in 2.4ghz and the extenders work as expected but streaming 4k etc becomes problematic.
Does anyone know if:-
1.. A custom firmware exists that includes the option to change the 5ghz hotspot channel?
Or
2.. An extender (or router with wireless bridge function) that can "see" the channel 149?
Thank you.
Related
I've heard some people say that when they're rooted, their wireless tether, another Android device such as a tablet or phone can't pick it up do to it being an adhoc network.
Question is, what's an adhoc network?
And how come MY wireless tether can be picked up by my Android tablet. But someone elses wireless tether doesn't work on their Android tablet?
Sent from my SPH-D710 using XDA App
xjs1200x said:
I've heard some people say that when they're rooted, their wireless tether, another Android device such as a tablet or phone can't pick it up do to it being an adhoc network.
Question is, what's an adhoc network?
And how come MY wireless tether can be picked up by my Android tablet. But someone elses wireless tether doesn't work on their Android tablet?
Sent from my SPH-D710 using XDA App
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On wireless computer networks, ad-hoc mode is a method for wireless devices to directly communicate with each other. Operating in ad-hoc mode allows all wireless devices within range of each other to discover and communicate in peer-to-peer fashion without involving central access points (including those built in to broadband wireless routers).
To set up an ad-hoc wireless network, each wireless adapter must be configured for ad-hoc mode versus the alternative infrastructure mode. In addition, all wireless adapters on the ad-hoc network must use the same SSID and the same channel number.
An ad-hoc network tends to feature a small group of devices all in very close proximity to each other. Performance suffers as the number of devices grows, and a large ad-hoc network quickly becomes difficult to manage. Ad-hoc networks cannot bridge to wired LANs or to the Internet without installing a special-purpose gateway.
Ad hoc networks make sense when needing to build a small, all-wireless LAN quickly and spend the minimum amount of money on equipment. Ad hoc networks also work well as a temporary fallback mechanism if normally-available infrastructure mode gear (access points or routers) stop functioning.
Infrastructure mode wireless networking bridges (joins) a wireless network to a wired Ethernet network. Infrastructure mode wireless also supports central connection points for WLAN clients.
A wireless access point (AP) is required for infrastructure mode wireless networking. To join the WLAN, the AP and all wireless clients must be configured to use the same SSID. The AP is then cabled to the wired network to allow wireless clients access to, for example, Internet connections or printers. Additional APs can be added to the WLAN to increase the reach of the infrastructure and support any number of wireless clients.
Compared to the alternative, ad-hoc wireless networks, infrastructure mode networks offer the advantage of scalability, centralized security management and improved reach. The disadvantage of infrastructure wireless networks is simply the additional cost to purchase AP hardware.
Note that home wireless routers all feature a built-in AP to support infrastructure mode.
awesome information thanks.
But any ideas for the 2nd question? about connecting android devices to other adhoc networks that work and dont work......
Think of it like this. Hotspot mod (infrastructure) on this phone is like connecting to a router. Wireless tether (ad hoc) is like doing internet connection sharing on a computer. You'll have to find a mod for the device that can't see or connect to ad hoc, to make it work. There are different ways to accomplish the same thing in different devices. With a galaxy tab, it's replacing a file. I'm probably wrong but with the Xoom, you need a modded kernel.
Also, as the saying goes, Google is your friend.
I couldn't connect my wife's laptop to the hotspot on my phone until I lowered the security on the hotspot settings to WPA. Default was WPA2. Something to keep in mind if a device won't connect.
Hi folks.
Trying to get to the bottom of wifi issues to do with One X and my router. Ive puzzled over this for a while but no clues yet.
Got a dd-wrt flashed Linksys WRT610N v2 with the latest firmware. Its a dual channel mimo 802.11n device.
Router is set up as DHCP forwarder to a ClearOS home server handling all the DHCP, WINS, web access etc. duties.
Everything else communicates with router fine, except one netbook that has to be set to use TKIP, but I think thats limitations of the netbook Intel wifi card or its drivers.
The phone will set up a wifi connection with 610N, show very strong signal but almost never manages any data traffic. The phone will communicate with other routers just fine.
Channels are set same SSID, one 20mhz and low band fixed channel other 40mhz and high band auto channel, WPA2-Personal PSK is the encryption type using eithe AES or TKIP (unsure which the phone selects). The 20mhz channel needs fixed channel id because its working as a client bridge with another wifi router in the house for the TV box. That router is a DLink DIR-615 also flashed dd-wrt, same SSID 802.11n single channel mimo router also using same encryption and wifi security. Essentially all routers and channels function as parts of same wifi network.
Im hoping someone knows of a specific limitation the phone has that can be worked around, or indeed can offer some insights into known problems with the One X wifi capabilities.
I found the solution to this, so I thought Id return and respond seeing as no one else could, just in case it helps a future reader.
The problem turned out to be the particular release of the dd-wrt firmware, I am not clear unfortunately on what aspect.
I obtained my wrt-610n V2 soon after it was released for sale in Singapore. At the time I flashed the most current dd-wrt firmware available and left it at that, firmware dated october 2010 iirc.
The procedure is first a special flash image then you can flash one of the broadcom specific 2.6 kernel generic releases(vitally important to only use 2.6 kernel on V2 models).The dd-wrt database still lists that early firmware from its reference page. However, if you go to the ftp site regular and recent generic builds are available.
I used the very latest generic build compatible with the 610n hardware (preserving settings so i didnt even have to reset and reconfig), since doing that my One X has been completely stable and performs well on the wifi connection. One wrt-610n radio set 20mhz low fixed channel other radio set 40ghz upper auto channel.
Problem completely solved.
For good measure I flashed up my two Dlink DIR-615 routers to the latest dd-wrt build and they now perform noticeably quicker and better on wifi connections. One of them spends its life as a travel router the other as a wireless bridge to the low channel radio on the 610n to remotely wifi link some AV gear on my network.
So the generalistic "keep firmwares up to date" certainly applies with these routers.
As an aside the Dlink DIR-615 has got to be one of the cheapest 802.11n routers out there thats full dd-wrt flashable, nothing fancy but they can be found in vast numbers on ebay for just a few quid
Hey all. So heres my deal. I have a Linksys E3000 router and an Edimax Wireless Extender I just picked up. I got this since in my house, the router is on one side of the house and so naturally, on the other side, I get 1 bar of wifi strength. Was hoping to improve that. So what I wanted to do was have both units have the same SSID and have the devices automatically switch between the physical devices (same SSID) as I get near them. This didnt work. In fact, both my S3 and my Nexus 7 kept getting confused and dropped connections often.
So now Im trying it where they have different SSIDs (lets say Router1 and Router2) so no conflicts. The issue I have is this. I want both my S3 and N7 to AUTO SWITCH to the better signal SSID. Im running Cyanogenmod 10.1 on both devices and I see in the adv wifi settings something about, 'Only connect to a network where strength is GOOD'. This seemed to be the answer, however it doesnt actually work. 1 network shows great and other shows fair and it still wont switch.
Wondering if there is any other way around this? Otherwise this extender is basically useless to me as I dont feel like constantly switching my wifi networks as I walk across the house. (wow I sound spoil when I say it like that lol)
Thanks all
Is it configured for Universal Repeater Mode?
When you say "it" are you referring to my router or the extender device?
The router BTW is a Linksys e3000 with dd-wrt and the other unit is edimax 7348rpn. I believe that's the right model. Its a little plugin unit. Thanks
RoachForLife said:
When you say "it" are you referring to my router or the extender device?
The router BTW is a Linksys e3000 with dd-wrt and the other unit is edimax 7348rpn. I believe that's the right model. Its a little plugin unit. Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From the Edimax site:
Complies with the IEEE 802.11b/g and IEEE802.11n standards.
Supports 2.400~2.4835GHz frequency band.
High data rate up to 300Mbps network speed.
Auto rate fallback in case of obstacles or interferences.
Supports point-to-point and point-to-multi point bridge function.
Supports WDS (Wireless Distributed System) repeater mode.
Supports Universal Repeater mode.
Supports AP Client mode.
Supports four sets of ESSID to group the different wireless networks.
Supports roaming link integrity.
Provides 64/128 bit key length WEP data encryption.
Supports WPA, WPA2 security enhanced function (pre-shared key, 802.1x, TKIP, AES …).
Supports WPS (Wi-Fi Protected Setup) function.
Provides MAC access control.
Provides hidden SSID function.
Supports Web-based configuration.
Firmware upgradeable via Web browser.
So it can be configured into different modes. Make sure you have it configured for Universal Repeater Mode
I have a 500cl model Zenfone 2, the Taiwan version. I'm having trouble seeing my dads 5g wifi network at his home.
The network mode is set to A/N/AC-Mixed and the wireless channel is set to Auto.
I understand there are some limitations to the channels or something in the phone in terms of 5g radio. I really don't know. I'm a total noob. It would be nice to be able to connect to the 5g wifi though. I can't even see it in my list at the moment.
The networks works fine itself, as we have a number of other devices connected already. Just can't get my zenfone to spot it.
I do not have any issue with wifi 5ghz
When i was at a friends i couldn't see his 5g ac router at all i did some research and found a old thread said to put the channel on 159 and sure enugh soon as we did it my phone was able to see it and connect. At home my phone finds my 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz with my wireless n router but connected at max of 74Mbps so i did some tweaking and found certain channels the phone woudn't see the 5Ghz band anymore but at 157 found it again and connected at 150Mbps both me and my friend run ddwrt on our routers.
Try changing the channel. My phone connects to my 5GHz network automatically without hassle and will switch from 2.4GHz to 5GHz preferentially when I come in from the backyard for example.
I wonder if anyone can advise how this problem might be fixed:
I have a fire-tv stick in my bedroom the latest version which has a voice remote and connects using WiFi direct instead of bluetooth. I'm using 2.4Ghz wifi (using a TalkTalk hg633 super router). I can't use 5Ghz because the signal to my bedroom isn't good enough on 5Ghz. On 2.4Ghz the link score from inSSIDer is 91 with the fire-tv stick unplugged, with a signal of -50dBm. With the fire-tv stick on a WiFi Direct AP appears on inSSIDer with a signal of -39dBm (ie stronger than my normal wifi signal). The link score drops to 71.
If I test download speeds and pings, then with WiFi direct off, i get decent downloads speeds (around 20Mbps) and 18ms pings in my bedroom, in the lounge its a little higher. With Wi-Fi direct on, download speeds drop below 7mbps, sometimes 1mbps, pings increase to 200ms (although I have seen 10,000ms) and the connection often disconnects so the download speed test or ping is unable to complete. (I get about 2 tests that work out of 6, the others fail due to connection issues).
The upshot of all this is that I can't get a reliable streaming service on my fire-tv stick. especially in the evening. The network often disconnects, or slows to a crawl so I get frequent buffering, inability to stream at all or a poor quality picture. In the lounge, I often find my PC disconnects when wifi direct is on though streaming is less of a problem (because there the wifi signal is about 5dBM greater than the WIfi-Direct signal
I contacted amazon, and they suggested changing the channel of my wifi so it isn't on the same channel a Wifi Direct. That doesn't work because the WiFi Direct signal follows my wifi onto the same channel.
I can't use a lan cable (no option for this on a fire-tv stick, and I shouldn't have to in any case). I don't want to add extra extenders / APs to my wifi network as that might just make things worse.
Does anyone know of any way to switch off WiFi direct and use bluetooth for the remote or the FireTV app on my phone instead? Or to decrease the power of the wifi direct signal, or any other solution?
I wonder about switching to an older fire-stick with bluetooth remote - but that I think would mean I lose the voice search facility?
If I swapped to a full Fire TV with voice remote - do they use bluetooth or Wifi Direct?
Same problem. Not as dire a situation because it's in my kid's bedroom and not mine. :silly: But it interferes with the WiFi signal in areas that are closer to her room than my home router.
Not sure why AMZ chose to use the same channel as the FireTV stick talks to your WiFi network on to do their communication to their remote. That seems like a really bad design - if it's messing the 2 of us up, it has to be doing the same for a whole lot of people.
I tried changing my home WiFi from channel 11 to 1 in troubleshooting and had the same experience as you - the FireTV stick's WiFi changed right along with it to continue to clobber my home WiFi signal. Been through the menus in FireTV stick - no way I can see to change its behavior. Google search led me here.
Hi,
Whilst I stand by everything I said, in attempting to get Amazon to replace my remote with one that used bluetooth instead of wifi-direct, they sent me exactly the same remote in replacement. It still uses wifi-direct. However, it has worked fine, despite being on the same channel. That suggests that some remotes are faulty and causing or exacerbating the problem. Exactly why that would be I don't know, but it's all working fine for me now.
Roku has been doing this for years Here is a link to there form maybe amazon will listen I just got a new one for another room but no network problems and is faster on menu loading so I can live with it.
You're always gonna have problems with a ton of stuff on 2.4ghz. If your router has 5ghz, I would recommend reorganizing if possible, or getting a stronger router. 5ghz means no headaches, no problems with other things, controllers\remote work fine, etc.