My pixel stand 2 has a fan built in. The software has limited options for it's functionality. I use the phone nearly continuously as a hotspot on the stand. It gets quite hot, and I am using acca to keep charging between 40 to 80%. I suspect the pixel stand's fan isn't really responding to the phone's temperature, but doing it's own weird Google ****. If Google would give the option of 100% fan speed continuously my problem would be solved. My intention is to rule this device to MY specifications. I plan to open the device and direct wire it's fan to run at full speed continuously. My question to the community is: how to wire the fan to the existing internal circuitry to make this happen? My usual, non elegant solution would be to just power the fan from an external adapter. But this results in multiple power strips with multi plug adapters, an electricians nightmare. YouTube shows some teardowns, but no voltage pinout points.
I'm sorry to say that I don't have any advice on this. I don't even own a wireless charger, but I especially understand using one in your circumstance.
I just wanted to comment because what you want to do reminds me of things that I do all the time with other (usually, computer) hardware that I don't like how it works, and figuring out ways to keep things as simple as possible, but yeah, no idea about the Stand 2.
Good luck!
GivIn2It said:
My pixel stand 2 has a fan built in. The software has limited options for it's functionality. I use the phone nearly continuously as a hotspot on the stand. It gets quite hot, and I am using acca to keep charging between 40 to 80%. I suspect the pixel stand's fan isn't really responding to the phone's temperature, but doing it's own weird Google ****. If Google would give the option of 100% fan speed continuously my problem would be solved. My intention is to rule this device to MY specifications. I plan to open the device and direct wire it's fan to run at full speed continuously. My question to the community is: how to wire the fan to the existing internal circuitry to make this happen? My usual, non elegant solution would be to just power the fan from an external adapter. But this results in multiple power strips with multi plug adapters, an electricians nightmare. YouTube shows some teardowns, but no voltage pinout points.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine is working just fine, I have acc set to stop at 70% and the stand set to max charge and the fan is running fast nonstop. Only issue I have is sometimes the stand doesn't communicate to the phone but that's apparently a widespread issue.
Thanks, I have been gleaning some information on this, will post when I get it sorted.
Namelesswonder said:
Mine is working just fine, I have acc set to stop at 70% and the stand set to max charge and the fan is running fast nonstop. Only issue I have is sometimes the stand doesn't communicate to the phone but that's apparently a widespread issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When the stand fails communication with the phone does your fan continue to run, or does it quit? Are you running heat generating apps while on the stand? Like Hotspot or AnyDesk?
GivIn2It said:
Thanks, I have been gleaning some information on this, will post when I get it sorted.
When the stand fails communication with the phone does your fan continue to run, or does it quit? Are you running heat generating apps while on the stand? Like Hotspot or AnyDesk?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
With no connection the fan runs extremely slowly, it's following a temperature readout on the coil and I don't think it ever will run as fast as when the phone tells the stand to ramp up the fan.
I used to have an issue at the beginning of the year where the phone would just not connect to the stand at all, and I would have to unpair and pair the stand back to the phone. This happened a few times in a month but then just stopped and I haven't had that issue since.
I do know that what case you use does make it harder for the phone to make a connection. I previously was using the Google case but it is thick enough that it would not connect every so often and also wasn't good because it increased the efficiency loses and also trapped heat in the phone. Ended up switching to a thin case and it's better, but probably would be best caseless.
I don't run anything on my phone when it is charging, it's always idle.
Namelesswonder said:
With no connection the fan runs extremely slowly, it's following a temperature readout on the coil and I don't think it ever will run as fast as when the phone tells the stand to ramp up the fan.
I used to have an issue at the beginning of the year where the phone would just not connect to the stand at all, and I would have to unpair and pair the stand back to the phone. This happened a few times in a month but then just stopped and I haven't had that issue since.
I do know that what case you use does make it harder for the phone to make a connection. I previously was using the Google case but it is thick enough that it would not connect every so often and also wasn't good because it increased the efficiency loses and also trapped heat in the phone. Ended up switching to a thin case and it's better, but probably would be best caseless.
I don't run anything on my phone when it is charging, it's always idle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I take the phone out of the case when charging on the stand. I rma'd one stand due to the fan would not start up unless I shook the stand. Now this new stand lets the phone get smokin hot sometimes. What are your ACCA settings? Mine are /sys/devices/platform/google,charger/charge_stop_level 100 5 shutdown (if not charging) at 5 Resume charging at 40 stop charging at 80. The reason I have the resume at 40 is I will often have the phone discharge to 50% or lower in use, and when I had resume set to 70% ACCA would fail, (when I sat the phone on the stand discharged to anything below the set resume point) the phone would discharge to 5, then shutdown, and proceed to charge itself to 100. I still have some trouble with ACCA and the phone charged to 100 in the morning even if I place on the stand before the resume point.
I think our main difference is that I spank my phone harder when its on it's stand than when I'm carrying it. Hotspot, mostly. But sometimes, other stuff, as well. Maybe the stand just isn't capable of keeping up with the heat generated.
GivIn2It said:
I take the phone out of the case when charging on the stand. I rma'd one stand due to the fan would not start up unless I shook the stand. Now this new stand lets the phone get smokin hot sometimes. What are your ACCA settings? Mine are /sys/devices/platform/google,charger/charge_stop_level 100 5 shutdown (if not charging) at 5 Resume charging at 40 stop charging at 80. The reason I have the resume at 40 is I will often have the phone discharge to 50% or lower in use, and when I had resume set to 70% ACCA would fail, (when I sat the phone on the stand discharged to anything below the set resume point) the phone would discharge to 5, then shutdown, and proceed to charge itself to 100. I still have some trouble with ACCA and the phone charged to 100 in the morning even if I place on the stand before the resume point.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Code:
configVerCode=202206010
capacity=(2 50 65 70 false false)
temperature=(40 45 120 51)
cooldownRatio=(50 10)
cooldownCurrent=
cooldownCustom=()
resetBattStats=(false false false)
chargingSwitch=(gcpm/constant_charge_current_max 600000 0 --)
applyOnBoot=()
applyOnPlug=()
maxChargingCurrent=(600)
maxChargingVoltage=()
language=
runCmdOnPause=''
ampFactor=
voltFactor=
loopCmd=''
prioritizeBattIdleMode=true
currentWorkaround=false
battStatusWorkaround=true
schedule=''
battStatusOverride=''
rebootResume=false
: one-line script sample; echo nothing >/dev/null
Battery kept between 65% and 70%, charging switch supports battery idle mode and setting maximum charge current 600mA, prioritizing battery idle mode is enabled so the battery is essentially not used and phone instead is using external power when active.
Thank you. If your phone goes below 65% and you place it on the stand, will it pick up charging?
Did you enter your settings under the ACCA interface, or ACC?
GivIn2It said:
Thank you. If your phone goes below 65% and you place it on the stand, will it pick up charging?
Did you enter your settings under the ACCA interface, or ACC?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, if it drops below 65% it will charge at 600mA back up to 70% and then the battery will idle, it won't begin charging until below 65% which would take probably over a week for the battery to selfdischarge down to 65%.
Overwrite the contents of /data/adb/vr25/acc-data/config.txt and restart acc.
Overwrite the contents of /data/adb/vr25/acc-data/config.txt and restart acc.
OK I will paste the exact code you sent into that location and see how it goes. I assume this will automatically change the ACCA interface as well. I will probably disable it in Magisk first, then re enable the module after reboot.
I did follow that exactly did copy the changed file in root explorer, saw it change the file size to confirm it really happened. But the changes do not show up in ACCA. It shows automatic charging s witch and prioritize battery idle disabled, charging power control disabled. Do the changes made to config.txt not show in ACCA or did something else fail?
I figured it out. Had to remove all the blank spaces between lines. Removed the word code: at the top. Removed the line : one-line script sample; echo nothing >/dev/null at the end. And probably most importantly, changed the configVerCode=202206010 to my existing code number, as the program checks this on boot and rewrites the original file if the numbers don't match. According to the documentation, this is a nono, but I couldn't figure how else to make it work. It is working as you said it would with these changes.
GivIn2It said:
I figured it out. Had to remove all the blank spaces between lines. Removed the word code: at the top. Removed the line : one-line script sample; echo nothing >/dev/null at the end. And probably most importantly, changed the configVerCode=202206010 to my existing code number, as the program checks this on boot and rewrites the original file if the numbers don't match. According to the documentation, this is a nono, but I couldn't figure how else to make it work. It is working as you said it would with these changes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That means you are using a different version of acc, so your mileage may vary. I'm still using the last stable release which is 2022.6.4.
Might also be worthwhile to install Kirisakura kernel as it puts more thermal constraints on to mitigate heat better than stock.
Related
Does anyone have a solution to charge the phone while tethered to a laptop...??? is there a particular adapter that i need to aquire...??? my battery life sucks and its seriously hampering my social networking...its like totally like OMG...!! whatever...
The only problem I have had with the TP2 is the same one I had with my Titan. The battery in the titan used to overheat and in order to not destroy itself / burst into flames, stopped charging the battery.
My usual solution is to just pop off the battery cover and slap the phone on a hard surface, screen down. Failing that, try blowing a fan on it.
If you actually want to just see if this is your problem, download nuePowerCpl / nueBattery2 [ http://www.nuerom.com/BlogEngine/page/nuePowernueBattery.aspx ] and install it. Start tethering, open the "Power & Backlight" Control Panel item (under System), and watch the battery usage. when you phone stops charging, look at the battery temp. You should see that the Temp is significantly hotter than normal (usually mine runs at about 31C, I believe the threshhold it stops charging at is 50C, but I could be a bit off on that one).
As a second note, doing Wi-Fi tethering generally takes significantly more power than USB Tethering. Just a thought.
Let me know if this helps you out.
I think the solution for the touch pro over at PPC geeks should work for the TP2 as well.
http://forum.ppcgeeks.com/showthread.php?t=47032
BStamps said:
I think the solution for the touch pro over at PPC geeks should work for the TP2 as well.
http://forum.ppcgeeks.com/showthread.php?t=47032
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ROFL That's some great stuff!! I can't wait to see the portable version!
I literally had to put my TP1 in the fridge to have a consistent tethering by wifi experience.
However the TP2 is much more resilient to heat abuse
use BT tethering... or USB to share your internet connection which will charge the device while its plugged in.
I would like to have the screen power down, but leave the touchscreen active. Then I can tap/swipe the screen to return the display, instead of hitting the power button. [Note: This is only for a "docked" state.]
Also, since "Display" is always the battery killer, this could prove useful for battery savings. With the screen dimmed to 20, I'm drawing about ~500mA. With the display is off, the power draw is ~100mA. Pandora is playing away the whole time. [Note: I'm not checking the power draw often, so take these numbers with a grain of salt.]
I would really like the nitty gritty details on how the power is routed to all the components (i.e. what can be independently powered up/down, and what is on the same power bus).
Any kernel gurus out there?
To be honest, this just sounds like a not-so-good idea.
Why not just flash something that gives your optical button joystick thing an unlock function?
And if you are just using this for when it is docked, why not just leave the screen on?
So, flashing an unofficial rom is a good idea, but tweaking one is not? If people didn't try the "not-so-good" ideas, this site wouldn't exist.
I have CM7, so I have the feature... disabled. The OJ button pushes the phone "dock" across my desk, and unlocks my phone if I pull it out of my pocket the wrong way. Besides, this is only substituting one button for another.
At a minimum, it would be nice to get the backlight to <5 (out of 255, not %), but I assume a full power down is where the real power savings will come from. I just want to tap the screen to bring back the UI.
sealdog said:
And if you are just using this for when it is docked, why not just leave the screen on?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Charging + screen on + CPU active = overheating battery. (i.e. It's not good for the battery.)
No need to get defensive but I see your point.
I think he just meant not optimal or efficient but it is your phone and actually sounded like an idea I thought of a while back. I'll be watching the thread.
06stang said:
No need to get defensive but I see your point.
I think he just meant not optimal or efficient but it is your phone and actually sounded like an idea I thought of a while back. I'll be watching the thread.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That was more after-work-commute mood than anything he said. I thought I caught the pissy bits (that isn't the original text), but apparently not.
So, sorry, SealDog. I didn't mean to be such an _____.
Anyways, here's another way to think about it, or just more info....
I just plugged in to AC, and the battery is at 23%. This means the charge current is at ~950mA.
With the screen off, it's putting ~800-850mA towards charging the battery (fast charge rate). With the screen on, it's only putting ~500mA towards charging (trickle charge rate), and burning up ~450mA.
Somewhere around 40-42 degrees C, the charge controller drops to ~500mA, because the battery is getting too hot. Yet, I'm still drawing ~450mA, leaving almost no current towards charging.
When it gets hotter (42-44 degrees C), the charger shuts off completely. Now, I'm just discharging the battery.
I have run into this too many times. 6+ hours on the charger, and the battery has only charged up 10-15%. Not cool. (In fact, the phone is freaking hot.)
BTW, I'm trying find every on/off setting I can (e.g. 1x/3G toggle). Mainly, I want to know what each unit's idle power is. I read about lots of battery saving things, but do they really help? Does 1x truly draw less idle current than 3G? Does shutting off wifi, gps, etc. actually save power when idle? Byrong did a nice backlight + CPU frequency examination. I'd just like to go further. I have an incomplete test built in Tasker (I have to fix the stinking task priorities, and remove all "sleeps").
My ultimate goal is to have a set of Tasker profiles that optimize power consumption for my purposes, without sacrificing functionality. For example, my mobile data choice is on or off, but off means C2DM can't reach the phone. I have plans for C2DM, so this isn't something I wish to sacrifice. But, if the screen is off and the network load is near zero, 1x is sufficient.
Try screen stand by root
『Moved by touch™』 ?
LâTêS†↭ⓛⓘⓝⓚⓢ™CM10 HTC A310E
This is available on my S3 i9300 with Siyah kernel, but I don't use it for two reasons:
- Accidentally activating the screen and waking the phone
- The digitizer normally turns off, and leaving it on drains your battery.
Save Note7 from potential exploding!
1. "Inportant" Disable fast charging under battery settings ( there is toggle to turn off)
2. Use OEM wall charger with OEM cable
3. Before charging phone close all active aplications and clear cashe
4. Before charging turn off wifi, bluetoth,nfc etc..
5.DO NOT CHARGE phone ubder pillow or in bad
Hope this tips help you guys and me
Perhaps we should also all be taking acupuncture and subscribing to new age homeopathy therapies? :silly:
If the battery wants to 'go bang' it will, no options will change that fact.
i'll just take my chances ?
Sent from my SM-N930F using Tapatalk
I think switching off fast charging would make a difference. Ad for the rest? Not sure.
radioraheem2 said:
I think switching off fast charging would make a difference. Ad for the rest? Not sure.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It doesn't, otherwise we would have been advised to turn it off by Samsung before the handset is replaced. Or a software update disabling the feature would have been pushed.
alltaken123 said:
It doesn't, otherwise we would have been advised to turn it off by Samsung before the handset is replaced. Or a software update disabling the feature would have been pushed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Samsung didn't say a word what to do untill replace, but if you read about fast charging, there says " your device will charge quickly but may become hot"
It's got nothing to do with fast charging, it's a fault in the battery that will heat up and catch fire if you're fast charging or not....
http://www.samsung.com/uk/news/local/uk-statement-regarding-galaxy-note7
Sent from my SM-N930F using Tapatalk
Ardianow1 said:
Samsung didn't say a word what to do untill replace, but if you read about fast charging, there says " your device will charge quickly but may become hot"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
See the post above mine
bottom line dont do anything that cause the phone to get too hot for long period of time.
Kansatsusha said:
bottom line dont do anything that cause the phone to get too hot for long period of time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think a lot of people are concluding that heat is the issue and will create the battery problem. I can't see any evidence that heat causes the battery fault to occur.
Well exploding battery will cause heat.... sooo XD... There probably many other component that cause it but anyone willing to force the note7"C4" to explode?
its a battery fault - the battery cells which are affecting the units are drawing too much power from the mains which in turn heats the battery past limit. i've had mine for about 4 days in the UK and three have told me "no recall or safety instructions have been given by company"
and samsung support have said "none of the problems has occured in the UK so you are fine to use and if it gets hot close all apps and place phone in cool place away from direct sunlight"
but samsung did say they were replacing phones. left details and call back will be in 7days
was on hold for 1 hour waiting for them to answer. might be quicker popping into a samsung store and asking about it.
but if people in UK need a piece of mind and wants to ring samsung the phone number to use is 0330 726 1000 *****THIS IS FOR UK RESIDENTS ONLY*****
remix754 said:
its a battery fault - the battery cells which are affecting the units are drawing too much power from the mains which in turn heats the battery past limit. i've had mine for about 4 days in the UK and three have told me "no recall or safety instructions have been given by company"
and samsung support have said "none of the problems has occured in the UK so you are fine to use and if it gets hot close all apps and place phone in cool place away from direct sunlight"
but samsung did say they were replacing phones. left details and call back will be in 7days
was on hold for 1 hour waiting for them to answer. might be quicker popping into a samsung store and asking about it.
but if people in UK need a piece of mind and wants to ring samsung the phone number to use is 0330 726 1000 *****THIS IS FOR UK RESIDENTS ONLY*****
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got a phone call from O2 earlier offering me to return the phone for a full refund or a partial refund with a different handset.
the option they didn't advise was to hold onto the phone and they will replace them when they get the new stock, they said this has been the most popular option with the majority of people opting for it, but they also said should the phone show any signs of the problem (getting hot when charging or swelling) I can take the phone in at any time for a refund.
chances are 3 just doesn't have all the info yet, but the recall is every phone, Samsung is probably still communicating with suppliers so it is likely a case of the firms are still learning then they will have to work out how to pass on the information to those affected.
I would have to say it's fast charging...or generic adapters. Because I used the original cable with a generic adapter and after charging for some time, the phone was extremely hot. As in ive never felt any phone become that hot. This was maybe in the first few days I got the phone. I saw fast charging was on so I turned that off.
I stopped using that particular adapter as well (which works for all our other Samsung and apple phones and pads) ... And it never became hot again.
I use another non branded adapter with a non Samsung cable in the office to charge and it doesn't get hot there. Doesn't get hot with my non branded car charger as well.
So my guess is it's the fast charging option. Or just that particular adapter. But so far... Fast charging off... With different adapters and cables.. And it's working fine.. And cool
the problem is 100% in the battery, nothing else in the phone is at fault.
basically when they make a battery it is done with layers of material and a catalyst (acid or similar) inside the battery is compartmented, if 2 of these compartments manage to interact with each other due to a fault in the separator you get a runaway reaction, at best you get a bit swelling or a hot battery, worst case it goes critical and fails (goes pop)
if you have a phone with a faulty battery you can play it safe and turn off options such as fast charging, but the fact is if the battery is one of the few faulty batteries in the wild you are only delaying the inevitable.
the only way to protect the phone is to monitor it carefully while it is charging as if the battery is faulty no amount of changing settings will solve the problem as if that was the case they would have released emergency firmwares by now to minimise risk.
but even then when the phone gets warm it isn't always the battery, my battery normally sits around 30-35C (even while charging) but my phone sometimes feels warm but the problem is the CPU running some times at 50-60C making the phone feel warm and not the actual battery.
My Pixel XL has a problem with its USB-C port and will no longer charge. The bottom of the phone gets super hot when it is plugged it, but no charge/not identified for USB transfers. Maybe a short or something who knows/cares. The device is currently off at about 8% battery. It's going to Verizon for a repair or replace. I have files on the phone (screen recordings, downloaded pictures, etc not in cloud) I'd like to recover before leaving it in Verizons "expert" hands.
Can't wireless charge with the Pixel XL and can't transfer via USB. Is there any "smarter" course of action rather than just turning on the phone and trying to blitz a cloud backup before the battery completely dies? I found something kind of cool regarding a possible transfer with the audio jack (http://hackaday.com/2010/02/01/android-audio-serial-connection/) but doesn't really seem feasible given my situation. Just wondering. I am sure if it needs a replace that Verizon will have no idea how to get my data off for me. Thanks in advance.
P.S. I miss removeable SDs.
Given your situation backing up to Google Drive would be your best bet. If you are connected to WiFi and the screen is off it shouldn't require much power. You can also turn turn off all radios and unnecessary functions other than WiFi (Bluetooth, nfc, data) to squeeze out a little extra battery. The battery also runs down slower when the phone is less hot. If you place the phone (no case obviously) on a cooling pad or on top of an ice pack wrapped in a thick zip lock bag it might squeeze out your remaining battery a little longer. While you have the screen on to set up the backup you should also turn down the screen brightness as much as possible.
I hadn't thought of the ice pack, can't hurt haha. I'm sure the booting will be what takes most of the remaining juice.
Thanks. Hopefully the mental path I have mapped out to select folders for backup is accurate
Hi,
I have a question about whether wireless phone charging affects spen. From about March to November, it happened to me twice that the phone said spen disconnected. After inserting it a few times, it connected again and worked. It's been happening every day for the past month, and for the past week it's been constant and won't connect. I read something about magnets in the discussions, but the phone did not come into contact with anything like that. The only thing I can think of is that for about the last year, the phone has only been charged wirelessly, by leaving it on the charger overnight. The charger is not original Samsung. Is it possible that the spen broke due to the charger? I got a new one today, it works perfectly again and I would hate to destroy it again. What is your opinion?
Please excuse my English, I'm using a translator
Interesting. Spen's seldom fail unless physically damaged. Sometimes they can be hard to get to initialize especially if not used for weeks. Eventually they will initialize though, the first indication is they show as charging. The old spen may still be good... just being stubborn.
Best to use Samsung chargers. The wireless charger shouldn't effect the spen if not actively charging. The Spen has it's own charging coil built into the phone. However not sure if the spen is shielded from outside RF. Unless the external wireless charger gives the spen a substantial over voltage if it can even charge it, it wouldn't harm it. The spen uses a super capacitor for it's battery and can't be overcharged. Over voltage may kill it. This is a question for Samsung engineers... good luck with that.
Spen's and magnets don't get along but a permanent magnet exposure shouldn't cause any permanent damage.
blackhawk said:
Interesting. Spen's seldom fail unless physically damaged. Sometimes they can be hard to get to initialize especially....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks for the reply
it's just my guess, because otherwise the spen was always fine and I don't know what else the phone would come into contact with.
Girlfriend still has my old Note9 and spen is still no problem and she basically doesn't even use it.
He is not physically damaged in any way. Over time, it just started to get worse.
The last two weeks or so, he was almost unable to connect. Rather, he was still disconnected. When I managed to connect it after a long trial, in the settings it showed charging from approx. 60% to 100% and for a very long time. Sometimes it even managed to charge, if it hadn't lost the connection by then.
When it was working, the battery dropped from 100 to 80 immediately after pulling it out, and then it wouldn't connect again after inserting it.
At least I'm glad it was spen and not something inside the phone
jampce said:
thanks for the reply
it's just my guess, because otherwise the spen was always fine and I don't know what else the phone would come into contact with.
Girlfriend still has my old Note9 and spen is still no problem and she basically doesn't even use it.
He is not physically damaged in any way. Over time, it just started to get worse.
The last two weeks or so, he was almost unable to connect. Rather, he was still disconnected. When I managed to connect it after a long trial, in the settings it showed charging from approx. 60% to 100% and for a very long time. Sometimes it even managed to charge, if it hadn't lost the connection by then.
When it was working, the battery dropped from 100 to 80 immediately after pulling it out, and then it wouldn't connect again after inserting it.
At least I'm glad it was spen and not something inside the phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're welcome.
Could be the spen failed electronically which is very rare unless damaged. Guess if the new one fails you'll have the probable cause.
Wired charging puts less strain on the battery and is faster... so you may want to consider using that instead. The C port is generally very robust and is good for many thousands of use cycles. In the N10+ it's fairly easy to replace and is an inexpensive part. So don't sweat it... enjoy your N10+, it's Samsung's best phone to date!
Just a joy to use and very capable.