I bought an Erisin ES8735V radio. But gps signal is really bad how can i do fix it?
Videos:
I can't find Google High Location Accuracy on settings > location. I can only see "Improved Accuracy" > wifi scanning and Bluetooth scanning.
They are already activated. But i still have bad signal.
It is hardware problem??
GPS signals are very weak and may be occluded by certain dashboard materials and windshield coatings. Most newer cars with GPS functionality use an external antenna, usually colocated with the FM antenna. If your head unit has an external GPS antenna input, you could try that.
V0latyle said:
GPS signals are very weak and may be occluded by certain dashboard materials and windshield coatings. Most newer cars with GPS functionality use an external antenna, usually colocated with the FM antenna. If your head unit has an external GPS antenna input, you could try that.
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Click to collapse
Thanks for answar. I have this antenna now.
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If you see my first video, i place it on window
I have contacted Erisin. i have got a kernel update which fixed the GPS signal. I just sold my Erisin PX5 radio. I have ordered Isudar PX6 radio
I have attached kernel here if anyone should use it
The PX6 i ordered
Isudar 7 inch Auto radio 2 Din PX6 For VW/Golf/Tiguan/Skoda/
The latest model of 2020 auto navigation. One din Android 10 auto radio with DSP,4+64G, PX 6 processor. Support:OBD, WIFI, DVR, ADAS, TPMS, Steering wheel control, Original Parking Radar Displaying, Rear view camera input, Front camera input, RDS, Carplay+ Android auto,GPS, Google map,waze,sygic.
www.isudar.com
Related
Hi to all,
Does anyone know if there is a chance to connect the sgs2 to an external gsm antenna? I would like to use it within my BMW and I wonder if I can build a custom snap-in.
Thank for your suggestions,
Spampunk
Sent from my GT-I9100 using XDA App
Does anybody know what is that little golden connector, above the battery, left from the SIM?
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I suspect it to be some kind of antenna connector...
Spampunk said:
Hi to all,
Does anyone know if there is a chance to connect the sgs2 to an external gsm antenna? I would like to use it within my BMW and I wonder if I can build a custom snap-in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Reminds me to the plug of my GPS antenna. Maybe it is for GMS? Does anyone know who at Samsung could help with that?
Sent from my GT-I9100 using XDA App
Krampfadern: Ursache, Diagnose und Behandlung - Varikosis
Tipps gegen schwere und müde Beine
this connector was discussed already, i think they said it was for an external GPS antenna.
this connector was also available for sgsI and I know there was a in-car holder for SGSI in which you should remove the back cover and place the mobile into the holder. So that the external antenna connects to the golden connecter for a more precise location service.
I'd seen it in a yt video when I had GPS issues on my sgsI on froyo while I was surfing through a solution but maybe after watching tens of videos so I couldn't find it now after a brief search
I did a quick check in the service manual, and it seems like this is related to GSM/3G and not GPS, but I'm not 100% sure (this connector is called ANT100 in the service manual).
It's DEFINITELY for the GSM/3G external antenna.
That said, DO NOT connect an external antenna there. It WILL damage the phone and the internal antenna will stop working. You can maybe ressurect it with a little soldering, but it's not worth it.
There is another thread where it's documented.
Do you have a link to the threat?
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=18594705
Over the weekend, my GPS (and GLONASS, incidentally) suddenly stopped working. I opened Google Maps to find my way home, and it could not find any satellites. Over the course of the past week, I ran various apps and tests, including a new ROM, to determine that this was not a software issue: the GPS is dead.
At least, it can't receive signals. The GPS unit hasn't failed as far the software is concerned; the system happily tries to grab a signal whenever you ask it to without any errors showing up in the logcat. I'm hoping that this means that something happened to the GPS antenna and that it can be repaired/replaced. The problem is that I can't seem to find any information on where I can find the GPS antenna or how I might fix it. The only information that I've found is this image from Anandtech showing the general location:
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There's lots of information on how to repair an LG G2, but next to nothing in the G3. I'd really like to keep this phone running until the next generation of Nexus Phones are released, but I don't look forward to living without GPS for the next 4-5 months.
I've already replaced the screen on this phone (manufacturing defect that LG denied... bastards), so I'm not squeamish about opening it up, but it's also my daily driver, so I don't want to open it up more than necessary, hence the tons of research.
Any assistance would be appreciated!
- Dave
I had similar issue turned out to be my FM transmitter in my car blocking GPS, realised when a Garmin satnav also failed to lock signal.
faybarn said:
I had similar issue turned out to be my FM transmitter in my car blocking GPS, realised when a Garmin satnav also failed to lock signal.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's definitely not an interference issue; I get 0 signal (not just weak signal), and it happens even when I'm a hundred feet from cars or buildings outdoors. That's why I'm thinking that it's possibly an issue with the antenna that can be repaired (hopefully!), but I can't find documentation on precisely where the GPS antenna is to inspect it. My fear is that the issue is that the GPS hardware itself has failed, in which case the only real solution is to get a new phone.
I've joined the Android HU community earlier this year when I bought a 1GB MTCD rk3188 (Eonon) device. Needles to say, even with microG and reflashing everything, I am experiencing buyer's remorse. I even found myself going back to RNS510 every other week.
With the first purchase going awry, I am now turning to the MTCB part of this community to hopefully find a more flushed out product. Preferably something that runs KitKat and has 2GB ram for the future. The ability to playback h.265/h.264 would be great as well. My current VW OEM unit's design is this:
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. At the risk of sounding obvious, it matches the VW design well so I'm trying to pick my second Android HU to kind of have the same aesthetic.
Do you have any recommendations? What's the best MTCB device out there now generally speaking?
Thanks.
I will say this: SKANDINAV CAR ANDROID CARPLAY OS LTE GPS NAVI RADIO DAB + For VW vehicles
https://www.real.de/product/320864294/
Atlanntas said:
I've joined the Android HU community earlier this year when I bought a 1GB MTCD rk3188 (Eonon) device. Needles to say, even with microG and reflashing everything, I am experiencing buyer's remorse. I even found myself going back to RNS510 every other week.
With the first purchase going awry, I am now turning to the MTCB part of this community to hopefully find a more flushed out product. Preferably something that runs KitKat and has 2GB ram for the future. The ability to playback h.265/h.264 would be great as well. My current VW OEM unit's design is this:
. At the risk of sounding obvious, it matches the VW design well so I'm trying to pick my second Android HU to kind of have the same aesthetic.
Do you have any recommendations? What's the best MTCB device out there now generally speaking?
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What was the problem with the first Android HU you bought? The make of an Android HU is not so important as long as you buy a model for which you can install an alternative firmware . I have this one in my Skoda car (same as Volkswagen): http://xtrons.com/pb86unvp-8-hd-dig...yer-custom-fit-for-volkswagen-seat-skoda.html and I am satisfied because I am using the MTCD Firmware from Malaysk which you can find here in the forum.
Regards
Kurt Lund
Hi,
I have a 10" 1-DIN Headunit with a PX5 Board from AndroidAutoShop. The headunit doesnt boot, only the buttons on the Touchscreen blinking one time, when power on.
It is 5 months old and AAS isnt replying the mails becaus of warranty.
I bought a Coreboard to check, if the px5 coreboard is the failed part.
In the headunit there is a hct-px5-rev 10(lpddr) and my spare part is a hct-px5-rev 4.0
the rev 4.0 has 4 pins missing. is it compatible or not?
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noools said:
Hi,
I have a 10" 1-DIN Headunit with a PX5 Board from AndroidAutoShop. The headunit doesnt boot, only the buttons on the Touchscreen blinking one time, when power on.
It is 5 months old and AAS isnt replying the mails becaus of warranty.
I bought a Coreboard to check, if the px5 coreboard is the failed part.
In the headunit there is a hct-px5-rev 10(lpddr) and my spare part is a hct-px5-rev 4.0
the rev 4.0 has 4 pins missing. is it compatible or not?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, compatible.
Hello,
I have a Dasaita px5. I have a set of head rest monitors and wanted to know if there are any options on connecting the headrests to the headunit. The manufacturer simply told me to upgrade to px6. I bought this unit 7 months prior to the release of px6, so I'm not trying to upgrade just yet. Any suggestions would be awesome.
csmoore1 said:
Hello,
I have a Dasaita px5. I have a set of head rest monitors and wanted to know if there are any options on connecting the headrests to the headunit. The manufacturer simply told me to upgrade to px6. I bought this unit 7 months prior to the release of px6, so I'm not trying to upgrade just yet. Any suggestions would be awesome.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You might be best to not hijack a thread that has little relation to your question and post in q&a.
marchnz said:
Yes, compatible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I replace the Coreboard and install Hal9k V4.0.2.
It is working, but there is no Sound from Mediaplayer, Radio, Spotify.
The key sounds are working with the speaker, but no music.
Is there a trick to activate the Sound?
Hi,
I tried to connect my sub-woofer amp to my Dasaita headunit but the RCA/LINE outputs (which are labelled in english "FRONT L OUT" and "FRONT R OUT") have extremely weak signals. I also tried using the SUB wire (which is a green female RCA connector) but it was exactly the same and was too weak.
I then checked these output connectors by connecting my oscilloscope and having a look what was going on, and they were only at ~300mV which is ridiculously low.
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Why are they so weak and how can I increase them. Is there a setting in the Android menu I can change perhaps or is there a hardware modification I can do on the circuit board? Maybe I need a DSP module. I literally have no idea at this stage but any help or advice would be appreciated as I've done an intense Google search and I have only found several topics from users who have the same problem, but there is no solution.
The only next real idea I have would be for me to splice into the front left and front right speakers, but I really don't want to go splicing wires and then have to deal with the sub then 'popping' everytime I go to start the car. I'd rather have the headunit drive the outputs correctly.
Thanks.
Bump.
Crystal ball is blank. We could enter a guessing game
Post detailed info about head unit after contacting seller support
I tried contacting support but I cannot get a response from them.
What I've done in the meantime is drive my sub gain up to max and remove my high level line converter. I get a little more bass now, but it's still a bit weak. I cannot control it in the amplifier application either (dragging the slider does nothing even if I had it connected to the green [SUB] wire output) so I have to use the sound balance option instead and move the audio more towards the rear speakers to get more bass because I'm using the [REAR L OUT] and [REAR R OUT] connections. The lack of [SUB] out controlability might be a ROM (firmware) problem, but I don't want to go experimenting and changing ROM versions because I'll lose all my settings and data. As for the weak [REAR L OUT] and [REAR R OUT] voltages, that would most likely be a hardware problem (I do see 10K pulldown resistors in the schematics which might need to be lowered to a lower value).