Develop Bugs

Carperformance.se Uconnect Android system help.

I am hoping I can find some help in here with a couple problems I am running into on this system that would make it so much better to me.
The system is basically an Android box utilizing the touch screen and monitor of my Uconnect 8.4 head unit. The naming in the settings is rk3188 and is running on KitKat 4.4.4, so it is some variant of the Android TV boxes. If there are other specs or info that are needed to help in possibly fixing my issues please let me know.
Issue 1: although not major, there is no option to have OK Google from any screen. Having this option for a car system is obviously something helpful. In the settings of the Google App trying to access the menu for OK Google detection doesn't work, so I can't even get to the screen where that option lives. I have the most up to date version of Google App and Google Play Services. I have Google searched on ways to fix this but nothing has brought that ability up. I know Android version 4.4.4 was capable of this. There was another app that utilized Googles voice engine and allowed this function but Google made him stop using their servers and killed that as an option.
Issue 2: this is the biggest bother to me and I could not find anything even related to what's happening in my searches. The system comes loaded with some apps and using Launcher3 for its front end, it has big buttons but offers almost no ability to customize it. The bottom row has apps that you cannot switch out to anything else, and 3 of them I will never be using. The system works but is not as nice as it could look or function. The obvious answer is to use a different launcher which is where the problem arises. I have tried to use Nova and Apex so far with the same very frustrating outcome. After the install everything is great, I can set the screen up to look amazing and add icons and functionality that really make it a great experience. So everything is working lovely then I shut my truck off and go do whatever. The next time I come back I start the truck up everything loads fine, the new launcher and everything I did to it is working just as expected until about 5 minutes in the screen goes black for a second and then the system goes through a factory reset. Really? Are you kidding me? The first couple times I thought maybe I hit something because I hadn't fully put my truck back together but after playing with it more and having the system factory reset 5 other times I have concluded it is related to changing the launcher. I tried Nova first, then I tried Apex with the same outcome and same sequence of events. Obviously it's annoying everytime testing this because updating and reentering my info everytime just to try the launcher again is time consuming. The last test the only thing I did was a different launcher so that has to be it, but why and how can I fix it?
If anyone has any clue how using a different launcher would cause a factory reset to happen please help me out. Or if there is anything I can do to this system to prevent that. My last resort thought would be to root it but I read someone else who has this system that rooting it caused screen layout issues and made things go 90 degrees off? The loaded apps in the system have touch screen calibration and screen resizing which might be necessary for this to function with the monitor.
Thanks for any help.

I spoke with someone else that has the system and they are not having any issues with running a different launcher so something happen to my particular device. I contacted the company and they will be getting me the firmware to refresh it and hopefully that fixes the resetting issue.

i am looking to get this also. I am very curious how you like the device - it looks great though a bit out of date. Waze & email should work well. How much storage does it have? Can you add a sd card or something?

RichTJ99 said:
i am looking to get this also. I am very curious how you like the device - it looks great though a bit out of date. Waze & email should work well. How much storage does it have? Can you add a sd card or something?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm getting a new unit sent out, it seems there are 2 versions and for whatever reason mine wouldn't let me customize the launcher.
But even though it's outdated, every app I tried worked just fine, they still install the latest versions. The system has 8gb of on board storage and a microSD card slot that is mainly for loading maps for offline navigation. I think you can still access it for other uses, but they have a better option for that. There is a USB input for flash drives or external drives. I tried my 2TB external drive on it and it accessed my movies fine from it.

How did you get it installed? Who?

got any pics?

Actually I would be interested in this too, I have an Alfa Romeo and the Uconnect 6.5 (european version) which isn't that great, it would be nice to attach a sort of box with ARM hardware running on Android and using the display and touch of the existing Uconnect. The question is, how this can be done?

http://www.dodgedurango.net/forums/.../24632-android-phone-uconnect-8-4-screen.html
I would check out this thread. It has two videos that walk you through the entire process - great info!

I also bought this latest Android system V4 2 weeks ago. Auto launcher pro app is very good working. At the moment there is a issue with the system time, which is not correctly synchronized with gps time. Carperformance Team is working on a fix for that. How can I get root Access for this Android 7 System?

Diabollon said:
I also bought this latest Android system V4 2 weeks ago. Auto launcher pro app is very good working. At the moment there is a issue with the system time, which is not correctly synchronized with gps time. Carperformance Team is working on a fix for that. How can I get root Access for this Android 7 System?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
glad to hear i'm not going crazy with the clock but there is an issue.
I just bought and installed a V4 a couple weeks back too.
i must have left a loose connection cause i keep having to recall the touchscreen for android. I half-arsed the install cause we were leaving for a 2k mile roadtrip the next day- need to take it apart and do it right. Luckily you can connect a usb mouse in to trigger the calibration app.
id also love root- at the moment im trying to figure out if the one usb port is safe to connect an A to A usb cable into to get ADB. apparently on some versions of nvida sheild, you can. If they provide a firmware update for the clock fix then maybe that gets us an image to futz with for root.
a keyboard also works in teh usb port and i've tried a handful of key combos during boot to get to recovery but haven't stumbled on it yet.
I'll post back if i find anything

michaelk said:
glad to hear i'm not going crazy with the clock but there is an issue.
I just bought and installed a V4 a couple weeks back too.
i must have left a loose connection cause i keep having to recall the touchscreen for android. I half-arsed the install cause we were leaving for a 2k mile roadtrip the next day- need to take it apart and do it right. Luckily you can connect a usb mouse in to trigger the calibration app.
id also love root- at the moment im trying to figure out if the one usb port is safe to connect an A to A usb cable into to get ADB. apparently on some versions of nvida sheild, you can. If they provide a firmware update for the clock fix then maybe that gets us an image to futz with for root.
a keyboard also works in teh usb port and i've tried a handful of key combos during boot to get to recovery but haven't stumbled on it yet.
I'll post back if i find anything
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi @michaelk
Good to hear that I am not alone here with this special system V4. Except for the issue with the system time and no root access, I am fully satisfied so far. I hope to fix it soon. If we had root access then we could solve this issue with the system time with some time apps ourselves.
Thank you for your experiences.
Best regards
Diabollon

wiring harness investigation
so played around some today.
I've got an issue where I need to recalibrate the screen almost every time I boot. it seems the box (or card added to the radio?) forgets things and only works the bottom right corner and also seems to rotate 90 degrees at boot. The end result is unusable screen. I think carperformance is just a reseller because of their response. They're friendly and reply quickly but are really unable to help. The first answer was just randomly fiddle with screen and try to find calibrate setting and reboot- that proved impossible and on my own I discovered a 6 dollar USB mouse from the Walmart could be used to navigate to the calibrate app. When I inquired again when it got more frequent they basically said it's not normal and offered no help except to adjust a personalization setting to run calibrate on boot- that only works once that I can figure (might be related to weird time bug)- so I settled on having tasker run calibrate on each boot. I wonder if there is a battery in the box that needs changing but the warranty sticker keeps me out for not- might add an external battery to keep it alive for a longer time to minimize the rebooting
Anyway took everything apart today to double-check and can't find any connection issues. I traced the harness a bit to try and understand a little and basically, the skinny cables run the daughterboard to snag the screen output and the touchscreen input. But i wanted to figure out what is tapped from the radio harness to the large white plug on the box and see if anything going on their .
DISCLAIMER- I NEED TO CONFIRM (it was hot - laughing) but basically seems what is tapped in radio harness is:
1) power and ground also
2) L&R aux audio signal- interesting here is they tapped a single ground (physically next to the right signal) for common. Earlier i had the RAX hack and their harness used a ground for each L&R and their aux input worked all the time without the little plugin shunt thing to trick aux input. When i dug some more and found a pin diagram from mopar I found that the 'left' ground is actually labeled "aux audio device detect signal" I need to play some more to see what happens but my guess is if we put a switch on that to short it to ground then the aux would just work to avoid the hokey plug.
3) Here's the fun- holding the screen to flip inputs could be the daughterboard running things. BUT since it also reacts to the left steering wheel button pack and switches inputs itself when you need the reverse cam- i figured it reads the can bus. and sure enough, it looks like it taps CAN IHS (+) and CAN IHS (-). Very cool that it would get into the whole bus and read anything- BUT since there are other FCA vehicles that don't auto-switch inputs on revers and they have alternate connections it seems the real dev is not involved to update things to sniff for other reverse signals. Reading around here- seems that there is probably a custom serial port someplace in the box that reads this and there's probably no documentation for us to do anything ourselves. But one can hope...
---------- Post added at 06:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:07 PM ----------
michaelk said:
glad to hear i'm not going crazy with the clock but there is an issue.
I just bought and installed a V4 a couple weeks back too.
i must have left a loose connection cause i keep having to recall the touchscreen for android. I half-arsed the install cause we were leaving for a 2k mile roadtrip the next day- need to take it apart and do it right. Luckily you can connect a usb mouse in to trigger the calibration app.
id also love root- at the moment im trying to figure out if the one usb port is safe to connect an A to A usb cable into to get ADB. apparently on some versions of nvida sheild, you can. If they provide a firmware update for the clock fix then maybe that gets us an image to futz with for root.
a keyboard also works in teh usb port and i've tried a handful of key combos during boot to get to recovery but haven't stumbled on it yet.
I'll post back if i find anything
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So the spec for the chipset for the V4 says it can handle an OTG port and a couple (maybe 3?) other USB ports. Obviously, the box only has the one USB A port visible on the pigtail. I wish we could get in the box and look for a header for the OTG port to help rooting but.... the darn warranty sticker.
on the FCA/Dodge side of things- I have a Durango with a USB port and SD card reader in the dash (USB Media "Hub" Apparently, FCA uses USB Mini B connectors to interconnect all the ports and the radio. They use latching connectors that are keyed but if you undo them there's a standard USB mini B in there. They do some odd male/female things so you have to pay attention to where you undo cables, but bottom line you can undo the connector on the back of the dash's USB port and stuff a USB mini B female on it and connect it to whatever host device you want.
I first tried an old laptop in case there's anything weird going on. My Dash "Hub" actually has 2 mini-B connectors and a multipin auto harness. Without the harness when you connect it to windows it sees a USB Hub, but the USB port was still dead. So I assumed it needs power from the harness on the back of the dash hub and connected that. UP popped up a USB mass storage device which I believe is the SD card reader- didn't get around to confirming and then the USB port also comes to life. Knowing that it was safe at that point I connected it to the USB A Host port on the box and presto chango now I have the in-dash port connected to the android tv box without any exposed wiring.
Connected the "android auto dongle" through the cars USB port and that works perfectly. I ordered a used 2 USB dash hub from eBay (later model years have 2 and will see what that does. The pictures of that also show the 2 mini B ports- I'll play some more when I get that. I'm not sure what is in those dongles but from the other folks hacking android auto into older models (by using newer radios) apparently, one port works for android auto and the other doesn't. The scuttle is its a body module programming thing but I wonder if maybe there's something physical in there and so the dongle won't be necessary any longer with the new hub? My other thought is if the two USB min B jacks allow you to connect to 2 different hosts- I would try one on the original Uconnect (in case I ever need to update the software) and the other for the android TV box.
So apparently the android tv box handles hubs just fine. As I mentioned earlier it handles a mouse or USB keyboard fine. Also, I played around and connected my hotspot by USB instead of wifi so the device sees it as a modem and that works just fine- so I assume a USB modem works out of the box too. (again odd if that works that carperformance sells a hotspot and not USB modem- like they don't know what the box can do)

I disassembled my display 2 times until it worked. After the first start, I had a black screen. I thought that was it... After 3 times it finally worked. I also had a cable on the plug which has easily resolved. I think you will also have a loose contact somewhere. One time I also had the display calibration gone. Then I connected my old usb keyboard and could then start the display calibration. I reset the system before. So far, the system works without problems. I also have a passive 4-way usb hub to connect.
I have already connected cables for the frontcam but have not yet moved into the engine compartment.
In the video tutorial of Carperformance, you can see when you switch to drive, the display then changes to the frontcam or signal from the cam, but the display does not change to the Frontcam signal with me.
Do you have with you the signal on the display of the camera when switching to drive?

Adw2 = bad mix
Went back and forth many times in email and turns out my calibration issue was probably all ADW2 launcher, guess it conflicts with whatever app they use to communicate with the display.
in the process of troubleshooting I got the update zip for the current version but I don't think those have recovery partition in there and so can't help root? I need to read some more.
I've ripped everything apart like 12 times with the screen, so that my front cam is not connected right now. For the brief time I had it, it was connected to one of the smaller video in pin connectors and don't think it worked in drive by itself, but can't really say for certain. I think certain models can't get the canbus command to see reverse and if I understand they connect in to the video in on the main connector and then use a point on the car that is energized to trigger the switch on that connection. If your adventurous they seem to have to flip a dip also. I think it's the Cherokees or maybe grand Cherokee so maybe Google their thread's? This site gives connector pin outs
http://connectors.dcctools.com/home.htm
There might be a lead for the drive on your shifter if lucky. I think I read the reverse shoulder comes from a body control box in the passenger wheel well?
Also they're super friendly and never wrong when you email but they can be brief. So you could ask if there's a dipswitch to flip to enable auto switching one of the inputs. Hec maybe we should just ask for a table of where the dips do...
(Sorry for any typos... Will try to edit later)

Supposedly it is enough to connect the extra input cable for DVD or CMMB. That answered me Carperformance. Before, I had no external input cable connected. That's why no signal came. The OEM rearcam works flawlessly.

Also, I forgot, they have a workaround for the clock bug
For the clock there is a fix
https://www.youtube.com/watchv=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s

michaelk said:
Also, I forgot, they have a workaround for the clock bug
For the clock there is a fix
https://www.youtube.com/watchv=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately it's not available.

Diabollon said:
Unfortunately it's not available.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
try this-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s

michaelk said:
try this-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a cheaper fix but so no solution. Carperformance should offer a software update with root access. Then we would be satisfied. We should expect it for the money.
My frontcam is working now good.
You already tried Android auto? Which USB dongle do you use? Do you need a special app for this?
My China usb dongle does not want to connect properly with my oneplus 6T.
Edit:
Android auto is working with Pumpkin USB dongle and autoplaybox app. The noname China scrap goes back to shop.
The time fix is working until now also. Thanks for this info. The carperformance, they wrote or informed the affected people who ordered it. I did not get any info.

Diabollon said:
...
My frontcam is working now good.
...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
besides powering your camera and connecting the yellow RCA video signal did you have to do anything else?
something with the red signal wire maybe?
I cant consistently get a signal on my front cam and not sure if the camera is bad or my setup
---------- Post added at 12:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:42 PM ----------
few other notes for others-
FCA "aux audio device detect signal" harness line is actually normally closed (I think shorted to ground)- if you break the connection the oew radio flips right to aux in. make the connection again and it flips back to previous input.
the in dash usb port is infact a powered hub. I originally had a usb + SD card combo and replaced it with 2 usb port and works fine. FCA uses mini b connections to it- just use a usb a to mini b cable to connect it to the android auto box and your indash usb port(s) will work on android auto (And provide more watts to charge your stuff). oddly either dahs hub has a second usb mini b connector that i played around with a little but never could figure out what it does
more can bus fun! - i updated the dongle firmware on the android auto dongle sold direct from carperforance and now it has a beta feature to map buttons. somehow it seems to be sniffing the canbus through the android tv box. it has arrow keys, numbers, enter, etc and you use the app to select the input to assign then you press the same button on the car twice- it sniffs the signal and assignes it. I My durango has the button packs on the steering wheel and i was able to assign up, down, left, right and get it to have the android auto respond. Need to play more but i think it actually goes android wide. For example i think the down button on my steering wheel was sending page down to the chrome browser i had open on the box. Pretty cool stuff if they expand that.

Android Auto not working for anyone as of yesterday?

Just wondering if Android Auto for connected car displays stopped working for anyone as of yesterday or today. I'm skeptical of another Google "back end experiment" that caused it to stop working. I have a Ford with Sync 3
Symptom: Plug phone into car, nothing happens. Phone only charges and will even say USB is connected.
I've done some basic and partially in depth trouble shooting. It most likely couldn't be caused by any updates on Car infotainment system or my Phone because it has been working (unless there was a back end play services update that was pushed out).
From the obvious to less obvious:
-Tried rebooting phone and restarted car
-Tried using a different USB A to C cable (Anker ones have worked perfectly for me)
-Tried using secondary USB port in car
-Tested phones ability to connect to a PC and transfer data, no issue
-Threw music onto a USB flash drive and plugged it into car, no issue
-Tried turning on USB debugging on phone, no change (not sure if this would have even helped in first place).
I'm at a loss right now. It does not make any sense.
I do not have another android phone to try or an iPhone to test CarPlay unfortunately.

Literally had the same thing happen to me on Sync 3 last week. I just deleted the car from the Android Auto app and deleted the phone from Sync 3. After that I was able to use Android Auto again after going through the setup prompts. No issues since.

Works fine for me on my 2018 silverado

no issues on 2017 Sierra

Here it works perfectly

bigblueshock said:
Just wondering if Android Auto for connected car displays stopped working for anyone as of yesterday or today. I'm skeptical of another Google "back end experiment" that caused it to stop working. I have a Ford with Sync 3
Symptom: Plug phone into car, nothing happens. Phone only charges and will even say USB is connected.
I've done some basic and partially in depth trouble shooting. It most likely couldn't be caused by any updates on Car infotainment system or my Phone because it has been working (unless there was a back end play services update that was pushed out).
From the obvious to less obvious:
-Tried rebooting phone and restarted car
-Tried using a different USB A to C cable (Anker ones have worked perfectly for me)
-Tried using secondary USB port in car
-Tested phones ability to connect to a PC and transfer data, no issue
-Threw music onto a USB flash drive and plugged it into car, no issue
-Tried turning on USB debugging on phone, no change (not sure if this would have even helped in first place).
I'm at a loss right now. It does not make any sense.
I do not have another android phone to try or an iPhone to test CarPlay unfortunately.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
happens to me every 3-6 months.
Swapping out the cable resolved it every time.

ya dude you need to try some different cables. that should always be your first step if there have been no updates.

Thanks for the replies. I deleted and unpaired AA from my phone and my car with no luck.
I actually had my coworker who has a Pixel 2 XL plug his phone in to my car. He had no issues at all even after multiple tries. Mine still wont connect. We're both on Pie with same security patch level. Did try tried Multiple new cables and still no luck (the anker high quality ones).
I found this thread incase it starts happening to anyone...
https://productforums.google.com/fo.../PWBrDUXzR4o;context-place=forum/android-auto
Something I picked off of that topic was some USB patches/features that went in to effect between Pie release and last month security patch.
I may just wait a month. Maybe another security patch which tweaks USB or 9.1 will drop fixing my issue. We shall see. At least I know its not my car or my cables.

Go into apps and check your "play services" versions between the two phones. Google controls a lot of **** through that app

Or just try to clear your usb port

Thanks for the replies. After the October patch I'm back up and running.
Lack of communication between departments at Google baffles my mind.

Android auto disconnecting

My pixel 3 xl will connect to Android auto via USB.... Work for a few minutes then randomly disconnect. Never happened with my pixel 2.
Any suggestions??...I have tried new USB cable.... Still does same thing.
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

I have had occassional issues with Android Auto as well -
When I first got the Pixel XL I was able to connect fine via USB and even wirelessly to my Kenwood headunit - but the other day, after connecting to Android Auto, when I tried to make a phone call, Blue Tooth was not connected and I could not get it to connect. I eventualy toggled on and off Airplane Mode - and after that
it connected fine. Havn't had an issue since (knock on wood)
for your situation, have you made sure that USB Debugging i turned off? It won't work with that turned on....

Same problem here.
Never had an issue with my Pixel XL, Pixel 2 or Pixel 2 XL. Yesterday I received my new Pixel 3 XL and Android Auto keeps disconnecting. Sometimes it does last a few minutes, sometimes it does so after a few seconds. It doesn't matter if an app like Spotify or Maps is being started or if I just connect the cable. Android Auto doesn't stop on the phone but only disconnects.
As you can't deinstall Android Auto I already tried wiping cache, wiping data and deactivate. I even tried three different cables.
When I connect my work phone Pixel 2 I don't see this problem. The connection is kept as usual.
I'm getting grey hair over this.

Has anyone found a solution or workaround for this issue?

I've tried absolutely everything, even rolled back to a nano SIM after started with an eSIM.
Gonna RMA this week and cross my fingers.

I wonder if it's a hardware issue or software. Unfortunately I don't have another phone that runs pie so I can't test it. My v30 running nougat works fine. I'm kinda waiting for the next pixel update to see if it fixes it.
If you do rma your phone let us know if that fixes the issue.

Turn off adaptive battery and see if that helps you

Nope, that doesn't help. As I mentioned I have every previous Pixel and all of them work flawlessly with my head unit. All preferences are the same.
There's only one obvious difference: Android Auto is pre-installed on the 3 XL.
Unfortunately I don't know anybody with Android Auto in the car nor owning a Pixel 3 XL to check out if it's something with my head unit.
In a German forum 2 people say they have it working properly...
One of the most frustrating parts is that - for me - it sometimes it works 10 minutes. After I switched back to nano SIM yesterday on my drive home I connected, listened to great music, whatsapped my wife that it is working and boom...disconnect and from then on the known behavior started again.

Did the new rma device fix the issue?

Just send it today and because I bought from provider I've a couple of days for the new one. Used my good ol' Pixel XL today working like a charme...
I'll update when the replacement has arrived.

Experiencing same issue with Pixel 3 non-xl and 2016 Honda Accord. Android Auto disconnects anywhere from 20 minutes to just seconds after I've connected.
I've tried the following:
-Variety of brands of USB-C > A cables
-Disabling all power saving options (whole phone, specific apps)
-Setting screen to stay on when charging (solved AA disconnect issues on my LG V20)
-Re-pairing bluetooth with car
-Re-pairing AA with car
-Resetting car head unit
-Resetting phone

I've had no issues with disconnects, but I use wireless connection with Pioneer headunit.

I got my replacement today and for now the problem looks to be solved but I only sat 20 minutes in the garage messing around with it but that are 19:50 more than my last attempt with the old one.
But I already installed both Android Auto app updates that came in the last couple of days.
/me is crossing his fingers
I'll drive about one hour in the evening and hope everything stays how it is now

It's a pixel 3 software issue. Big thread in the Android Auto support forums. Google doesn't seem to be in a hurry to fix it. Said the November update should, it did not.

Anyone ever find a fix for this? I'm having the same issue, but now cannot connect at all. (Was working. Stopped the car, went into Starbucks, came out and AA won't connect.) My Pixel 2 XL works fine, but I want to sell it.

Like I said I RMAd it and it works flawlessly ever since.

Android Auto Closing Out on Pixel 3
Did anyone find a fix for this? I'm having same problem with a new Pixel 3 (not XL). It will project to the car screen/monitor temporarily, but then disconnect and close out of Android Auto. Sometimes it will automatically switch back in a few seconds. Other times I need to disconnect the USB cable from the car and reconnect to get it to project the screen again. It closes out Bluetooth and stops playing from the phone too. This seems to be an issue with the phone, as I've had this problem in multiple cars. My only solution is to run AA on the phone and not project it. Is Google doing anything about this?

Wahoodean said:
Did anyone find a fix for this? I'm having same problem with a new Pixel 3 (not XL). It will project to the car screen/monitor temporarily, but then disconnect and close out of Android Auto. Sometimes it will automatically switch back in a few seconds. Other times I need to disconnect the USB cable from the car and reconnect to get it to project the screen again. It closes out Bluetooth and stops playing from the phone too. This seems to be an issue with the phone, as I've had this problem in multiple cars. My only solution is to run AA on the phone and not project it. Is Google doing anything about this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My phone connects fine to AA. It stays connected with the cable. Perhaps try a new cable to connect it. I'm on stock rooted.
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL

Android Auto Not Working After Updating to Android 10

I was wondering if anyone else was/is experiencing problems with connecting their phone to their car for Android Auto. I just updated my Pixel 2XL to Android 10 yesterday (then rooted it) and when I went to connect it to my car today, Android Auto did not show up at all. It only showed up on my phone. The screen in my car says that there is no device connected. The phone is charging, but nothing else is happening. I have tried many different cables and uninstalled and reinstalled Android Auto and Google Maps. I am hoping someone can help me. Thanks

No problems here, check your cable and phone usb port

It's working for me on Android 10.

So I had a issue with Android Auto on Android 10... My vehicle has the head unit JVC KW-M845BW and I couldn't get the android auto interface to pop up after installing Android 10. In Pie, I could just go into the app and turn on the bluetooth auto start up setting when the car started. Now that the app is not available to open, you have to hope starting the head unit will pull up Android Auto... In my car, I have to set the parking break to get Android auto app to pop up on Android 10 for the first time installation. After that, the app pops up on my head unit every time.

Question Android auto issues

Hi everyone, having weird issues with op9pro and new Mazda CX5 infotainment. I could get it connected a couple of times but it starts to disconnect everytime I use it.
I tried opo6 with a custom rom based on Android 10 and it works perfectly.
In my previous Mazda 6 the op9pro use to work without any issue.... I read around there are issues with AA and android 11 in general, with different cars, I tried various workarounds but it seems impossible to have a stable connection here... Am I the only one around? Some suggestions would be appreciated

I'm also having problems with AA on my car. Here is my work-around:
Standard power charging going on and off. Can't use Android Auto [work-around]
Work-around : https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/standard-power-charging-going-on-and-off-cant-use-android-auto-work-around.4258043/post-84822769 I'm having a problem when I plug my phone into my car usb-a for charging and Android Auto (AA)...
forum.xda-developers.com
You can read the full thread, I've tried a lot of things.

clavelm80 said:
I'm also having problems with AA on my car. Here is my work-around:
Standard power charging going on and off. Can't use Android Auto [work-around]
Work-around : https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/standard-power-charging-going-on-and-off-cant-use-android-auto-work-around.4258043/post-84822769 I'm having a problem when I plug my phone into my car usb-a for charging and Android Auto (AA)...
forum.xda-developers.com
You can read the full thread, I've tried a lot of things.
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thx, already ordered a new cable, I will give it a try and trace it here!

wollax said:
thx, already ordered a new cable, I will give it a try and trace it here!
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Click to collapse
Changing cables did not solve the AA problem for me. Except the oneplus 3t cable, I've only tried with anker ones. Maybe I should have tried other brands.
Interesting thing, the Anker USB-C to USB-A USB2 cable has solved the problem with my older power-bank.

hi to all, changed cable, tried PTP workaround, it could work once or twice but later as you connect the phone to the car it won't work for sure .... a real pain .... the only way for me is to use the old OP6 with android 10 custom ROM with the car, and the OP9P (main device and number!) not connected at all with the car, using a BT headset to answer while driving ..... what a shame!

wollax said:
hi to all, changed cable, tried PTP workaround, it could work once or twice but later as you connect the phone to the car it won't work for sure .... a real pain .... the only way for me is to use the old OP6 with android 10 custom ROM with the car, and the OP9P (main device and number!) not connected at all with the car, using a BT headset to answer while driving ..... what a shame!
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Have you tried setting don't optimize for aa, then when you plus your phone into your car hold on the notification. Change it to important then turn sound and vibration off for that notification

I had similar issues with my OP9. I then made sure USB debugging was on in developer settings and that fixed the issue.

toolhas4degrees said:
Have you tried setting don't optimize for aa, then when you plus your phone into your car hold on the notification. Change it to important then turn sound and vibration off for that notification
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thanks for suggestion but no way, I can connect once the OP9P playing with usb in developer section settings, but it works once, and I have to delete the car from the phone and the phone from the car settings ! When I reconnect to the car the OP9P starts to opening AA and closes it quickly, it never connects as my old OP6 with android 10 and custom ROM does ....
Now I am waiting for amazon to deliver other usb cables from Ugreen, but I don't think they will solve my issue .... hope very soon a custom ROM will arrive for this OP9P so that I will probably solve this SW issue, not sure it is only on Goolge side the reason for this issue, I suppose it could be something on Oneplus Oxygen ....

XNine said:
I had similar issues with my OP9. I then made sure USB debugging was on in developer settings and that fixed the issue.
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sure I have developer activated but it's not enough!

wollax said:
sure I have developer activated but it's not enough!
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You need developer settings on.
You need to turn on USB Debugging.
If this still fails, try switching the DEFAULT USB CONFIGURATION to FILE TRANSFER from NO DATA TRANSFER.
You may need to reboot after this, you may not.
Default USB Configuration is found under the Networking section in Developer Options, between Tethering hardware acceleration and Show Bluetooth devices without names.

XNine said:
You need developer settings on.
You need to turn on USB Debugging.
If this still fails, try switching the DEFAULT USB CONFIGURATION to FILE TRANSFER from NO DATA TRANSFER.
You may need to reboot after this, you may not.
Default USB Configuration is found under the Networking section in Developer Options, between Tethering hardware acceleration and Show Bluetooth devices without names.
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all settings are ok in the OP9P, but it works as usual only once and after I stop the car in never reconnects again! if I reboot OP9P sometimes it works again .... for me it's not the "right" way to use it.
the OP6 works perfectly you can connect and disconnect how many times you want it never fails!
let's wait for next oxygen updates and maybe also google patches for their SW .... thanks again for sharing your experience!

Here is an update, after some time trying various combinations, I realized this device works perfectly the first time you connect to the car, if you turn off the car for example to get some fuel for a few minutes or less, or if you disconnect the phone and reconnect it without waiting, op9p won't connect anymore, but if you wait like a quarter then it will work perfectly.... the old op6 is not doing like that!!!!
Anyway now I know how to make it work and I can handle it someway!