USB Devices kill/disconnect Wifi and other USB Port - MTCD Android Head Units General

Hi there
i own an brand new Witson PX5 unit and have little trouble with his USB Ports and the Wifi Chip.
Android 10 For FORD FOCUS 2019 (W2-RVT5210)
For FORD FOCUS 2019 Android 10 SystemCapactive 1024x600 HD ScreenCPU: Octa-Core 64 bit PX5 Cortex-A53 1.5GHZ Frequency4G DDR3 RAM MemoryBuilt In 64GB Flash1080P HD Video Full Video OutputBluetooth OB
www.witson.com
this radio hast an USB connector cable port with 4 single USB plugs on the back side.
they 4 plugs are internal connected to 2 pairs.
Pin/port 1+2 is a pair and 3+4 is a pair.
(the numbers i wrote are possible not the correct PIN sequence)
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now the wifi chip is an Realtek RTL8188ETV with "network USB interface (USB 1.0/1.1/2.0 compatible) controller,
and it is connected/routed to port/pin 1+2
the problems is, if i use the DAB box on port/pin 1 and put an USB device in port 2, it will kill/disconnect the port/pin 1 and the wifi chip.
right after this, they will both reconnect and work a time long.
The same process if i use the DAB box on port 2 and plug in and USB device in port 1. it will kill/disconnet port 2 and the wifi chip.
With port 3+4 there are no issues. there i can stick in and out how i want and there are no trouble with any USB port.
the radio runs without any software modifications instead temporarily root (the problem existed already before!)
i tried a newer and older MCU and the actual OTA Android 10 Update which i got from witson (Bob) because of this problem
unfortunately no success.
i can provide an dmesg.log , event.log or logcat.log if it would help.
(for me this is unfortunately too much data)
my questions
would it be more an software problem, hardware (mainbaord) fault, faulty mainbaord layout or only an faulty USB connector cable ?

Related

Does the Note have A/V out via headphone socket like Galaxy 9000 Used to?

I know it's not HD just standard composite vid and stereo but does anyone have a lead to give it a whirl. I remember it worked on the Original Galaxy i9000..
no .
lumbard said:
I know it's not HD just standard composite vid and stereo but does anyone have a lead to give it a whirl. I remember it worked on the Original Galaxy i9000..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, that is very dated nowadays for phones made this year. Most have mini-HDMI or MHL adapters that use the micro USB slot to output video. The Galaxy Note needs MHL adapter to have HDMI out.
Composite connection is available on practically any TV especially when we travel, however HDMI is obviously available only on the HDTVs which might not be accessible while travelling to remote places, so its a good thing to have a regular composite output in your pocket. I know unfortunately nothing could be done in this regards other than to look for an HDMI to composite/component converters.
Prankey said:
Composite connection is available on practically any TV especially when we travel, however HDMI is obviously available only on the HDTVs which might not be accessible while travelling to remote places, so its a good thing to have a regular composite output in your pocket. I know unfortunately nothing could be done in this regards other than to look for an HDMI to composite/component converters.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
More expansive electronic on the device, more the device will cost:
If you travel, you can buy this converter:
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http://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Composite-S-Video-Converter-3RCA/dp/B0047PDBP0
Best regards
Sorry off topic
Prankey Are you the guy from hifivision
Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk
Is this an mental idea. I have a TV out lead from a previous HTC Touch Pro. Mini USB connector. Could I just use a mini, to micro USB adapter and get the GNote to broadcast out that way, or wouldn't it do anything?
I've even seen a 3.5m out lead '3.5mm to RCA TV out cable, composite' Works on the Galaxy S.
Or can't you get anything to any kind of TV at all and the only option is an MHI to HDMI lead to a TV that can take HDMI (Samsung make one, it's about 20 Euro).
Other option is, I have no idea what I'm talking about, at all....

Review HooToo® HT-UH009 USB 3.0 Hub 10-Port (12V/4A Power Adapter

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[/URL][/IMG]
HooToo® HT-UH009 USB 3.0 Hub 10-Port (12V/4A Power Adapter, Latest VIA VL812 Chipset, 3.3 feet USB 3.0 Cable), Backward Compatible with USB 2.0 and Supporting Windows / Mac / Linux OS (Electronics) Get it HERE
I have the 7 port one also that Hoo Too provided me for review also. (HERE) This one works much better for me because I have so many devices. The only downside on this one is that it feels a little cheaper built than the 7 port. But the difference is minuscule.
The hub is compatible with many operating systems, but I tested it on my Windows 7 Ultimate 32 Bit operating system on my HP laptop. The UBS ports allow you to add any type of accessory that needs a USB port. You can add in a printer, scanner, external hard drive or whatever accessory you may need. No drivers are required, so set up is easy.
This is a great way to add additional ports to any computer or laptop. I have so many devices connected to my computer and I always need another USB port to plug in more devices or charge them! This product gave me everything I need.
I like that it is small and lightweight also. Can be hidden easily if need be. No drives disconnected when I used this. I had it attached to my phone, 2 external HDDs, 3 flash drives and also had it charging my android phone and an additional external battery. I was transferring files for a few hours to test it thoroughly. It handled everything I needed. The charging rate was comparable to my OEM wall chargers.
Overall this is a great product that comes in very handy if you have may devices. So if you need that capability, this is for you!
HERE is the other one I reviewed also. HooToo® HT-UH010 7-Port USB 3.0 HUB with 2 Smart Charging Port for iPad/iPhone/SAMSUNG/HTC Smartphone/Tablet (12V/5A Power Adapter(8ft), 3.3ft USB 3.0 Cable, Latest VIA VL812 Chipset) :good:

Strange behavior after connect USBC cable or car charger on A50

Hello everyone,
I just discovered that my wife's Samsung Galaxy A50 with brand from Orange Poland is very strange phone and probably have something wrong.
Found two issues with him:
Connect in car: after connect to car charger [key car is disconnected] it's power on radio and other devices in car [for example dash cam],
Connect to PC: direct connect by good quality USB-C <--> USB-C don't work - device it's not discovered by PC, or even loading
I also have a second A50, but without brand from mobile operator, and old A8-2018 and both those phones don't do this - don't power car electricity and are visible by PC on USB-C <--> USB-C connection.
What I did so far - was:
factory reset
download last firmware from SamMobile for Orange and apply it
clean up USB-C port in device
Unfortunately non of above don't fix issues.
What is working on her phone:
Device is loading by ac adapter
Device is also discovered by PC when connect by USB --> USB-C cable
I'm downloading from SamMobile image without brand - and will check it afternoon, but maybe someone from you was have those issues like this?
I'm can't attaching picture with cleaned USB-C ports on both devices and videos what this behavior look like because - I'm to new on forum
Did you checked which device control the other? I mean, there is an option, and maybe your phone is trying to control your car's computer.
My opinion about the PC issues is, maybe try the original cable, or type c <->type a, or other computer.
Sorry for poor english, and if I am wrong.
Use Your Samsung warranty and go to Samsung center in Poland for free diagnose. You can get hour appointment by call to choosen samsung Center. I think that You usb charger module in phone can be damaged. Typical Samsung diecease.
Thanks for responses. I was today on Samsung store and they take it for diagnose. I'm little aftraid only that this isssue is not so obvious and could be hard to find.
NETWolF82 said:
Thanks for responses. I was today on Samsung store and they take it for diagnose. I'm little aftraid only that this isssue is not so obvious and could be hard to find.
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I just get back device from repair. What was replaced in on bottom photo:
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Now device works fine.

Dasaita 10 PX5 Coreboard not booting

Hi,
I have a 10" 1-DIN Headunit with a PX5 Board from AndroidAutoShop. The headunit doesnt boot, only the buttons on the Touchscreen blinking one time, when power on.
It is 5 months old and AAS isnt replying the mails becaus of warranty.
I bought a Coreboard to check, if the px5 coreboard is the failed part.
In the headunit there is a hct-px5-rev 10(lpddr) and my spare part is a hct-px5-rev 4.0
the rev 4.0 has 4 pins missing. is it compatible or not?
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noools said:
Hi,
I have a 10" 1-DIN Headunit with a PX5 Board from AndroidAutoShop. The headunit doesnt boot, only the buttons on the Touchscreen blinking one time, when power on.
It is 5 months old and AAS isnt replying the mails becaus of warranty.
I bought a Coreboard to check, if the px5 coreboard is the failed part.
In the headunit there is a hct-px5-rev 10(lpddr) and my spare part is a hct-px5-rev 4.0
the rev 4.0 has 4 pins missing. is it compatible or not?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, compatible.
Hello,
I have a Dasaita px5. I have a set of head rest monitors and wanted to know if there are any options on connecting the headrests to the headunit. The manufacturer simply told me to upgrade to px6. I bought this unit 7 months prior to the release of px6, so I'm not trying to upgrade just yet. Any suggestions would be awesome.
csmoore1 said:
Hello,
I have a Dasaita px5. I have a set of head rest monitors and wanted to know if there are any options on connecting the headrests to the headunit. The manufacturer simply told me to upgrade to px6. I bought this unit 7 months prior to the release of px6, so I'm not trying to upgrade just yet. Any suggestions would be awesome.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You might be best to not hijack a thread that has little relation to your question and post in q&a.
marchnz said:
Yes, compatible.
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Click to collapse
I replace the Coreboard and install Hal9k V4.0.2.
It is working, but there is no Sound from Mediaplayer, Radio, Spotify.
The key sounds are working with the speaker, but no music.
Is there a trick to activate the Sound?

Mitsubishi Lancer Dasaita HCT-PX30 (Rockchip RK3326) [RCA/LINE & SUB Outputs Not Working]

Hi,
I tried to connect my sub-woofer amp to my Dasaita headunit but the RCA/LINE outputs (which are labelled in english "FRONT L OUT" and "FRONT R OUT") have extremely weak signals. I also tried using the SUB wire (which is a green female RCA connector) but it was exactly the same and was too weak.
I then checked these output connectors by connecting my oscilloscope and having a look what was going on, and they were only at ~300mV which is ridiculously low.
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Why are they so weak and how can I increase them. Is there a setting in the Android menu I can change perhaps or is there a hardware modification I can do on the circuit board? Maybe I need a DSP module. I literally have no idea at this stage but any help or advice would be appreciated as I've done an intense Google search and I have only found several topics from users who have the same problem, but there is no solution.
The only next real idea I have would be for me to splice into the front left and front right speakers, but I really don't want to go splicing wires and then have to deal with the sub then 'popping' everytime I go to start the car. I'd rather have the headunit drive the outputs correctly.
Thanks.
Bump.
Crystal ball is blank. We could enter a guessing game
Post detailed info about head unit after contacting seller support
I tried contacting support but I cannot get a response from them.
What I've done in the meantime is drive my sub gain up to max and remove my high level line converter. I get a little more bass now, but it's still a bit weak. I cannot control it in the amplifier application either (dragging the slider does nothing even if I had it connected to the green [SUB] wire output) so I have to use the sound balance option instead and move the audio more towards the rear speakers to get more bass because I'm using the [REAR L OUT] and [REAR R OUT] connections. The lack of [SUB] out controlability might be a ROM (firmware) problem, but I don't want to go experimenting and changing ROM versions because I'll lose all my settings and data. As for the weak [REAR L OUT] and [REAR R OUT] voltages, that would most likely be a hardware problem (I do see 10K pulldown resistors in the schematics which might need to be lowered to a lower value).

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