Develop Bugs

[Q] USB IO PCB Touchscreen calibration for Nexus 7 2013

I replaced my USB PCB IO (due to physical damage) with this : ME571KL SUB_BD./AS(WUS). I can't provide the URL because this is my first time posting, but a quick google should lead you to a link from asusparts.eu
With this new PCB, everything except for the touchscreen is operational. I know the fault is not with the digitizer since if I connect my damaged old USB PCB IO, the touchscreen works. The website mentions thus : " Please note that this part may have to be calibrated to work with your unit. To do this you will have to send your tablet to an Asus service center for calibration"
However, Asus has been very cooperative so far and I was wondering whether you would be able to provide a solution to this issue.
Thank you !

Going to replace the USB board and worried by this.
My Nexus 7 2013 has recently stopped to charge...
Tried to tighten the USB socket but that didn't help. I suppose the USB socket is dead; as I don't know how to solder, I think I'm going to have to replace the whole sub-board... but I came upon the same warning that the board needs to be calibrated and saw this thread, so I was wondering if someone knew if there's any issue with replacing it?

After looking at it closer, I found out one of the pins is broken and gone... The 4 other pins are all okay at the moment.
Off-topic, but does someone have an idea to bridge the gap between the USB socket and the board?

Soldering?
Would applying some solder to all the pins help?

leoetlino said:
Would applying some solder to all the pins help?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You didn't mention where the socket pin broke off. If it's between the back pin and the board itself, then it's just a matter of dropping some solder to bridge what's left on the pin itself and the pad, or copper trace, on the board. There's no secret: you need to reestablish continuity between those two points. But since it's so tiny, you need to check for continuity with a volt meter.
How the pin broke though, is hard to understand. That's the area nothing in the operation of the tab ever touches. There are no moving parts. How did it happen?

It seems to be between the back of the connector and the board:
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A few months ago, I started having charging issues. It would charge intermittently, and after some weeks the whole port stopped working...
That's why I opened it, and to no surprise, I could see the USB connector had something wrong: as you can see, the whole GND pin has got off the board. I presume it wasn't soldered properly.
If I use a needle to manually connect the connector and the "pad", then it works fine: charging, USB data, HDMI SlimPort...
In this case, would applying some solder help?

leoetlino said:
A few months ago, I started having charging issues. It would charge intermittently, and after some weeks the whole port stopped working...
That's why I opened it, and to no surprise, I could see the USB connector had something wrong: as you can see, the whole GND pin has got off the board. I presume it wasn't soldered properly.
If I use a needle to manually connect the connector and the "pad", then it works fine: charging, USB data, HDMI SlimPort...
In this case, would applying some solder help?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you can drop some solder to link pin 1 of the usb socket to trace "1" on the pad, it should work. But make sure it doesn't short with pin 2. If it's too difficult, try a fine copper strand. That pin is not GND, it's 5v.

Thanks for your reply. I stand corrected.
Just a question, would there be issues if the solder also touches the other pins? Would that create a short circuit?
Hopefully I won't need to solder anything but simply apply some solder...

leoetlino said:
Thanks for your reply. I stand corrected.
Just a question, would there be issues if the solder also touches the other pins? Would that create a short circuit?
Hopefully I won't need to solder anything but simply apply some solder...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You don't want anything shorted, as it might fry the components. That happens, and it's the end of it. Use some gel flux, and a soldering that's no bigger than 0.8mm. At most a 1.0 mm tip. Don't try your luck with a regular 25W iron, you will fail, and end up destroying the socket. I learned it the hard way so you don't have to..

Why is this not compatible ? they do not say anything about this issue when this item is purchased.
why is this not a 'plug and play' type of replacement part ?
I have been repairing computers for 16 years and all parts that I have purchased and replaced do not need to be returned to the manufacturer for 'Calibration'. updated drivers are readily available for new parts from other vendors, So....
What does this say about Asus ?
Why do they sell replacement parts that they know will not work without their 'special attention/calibration/tool ?
I have purchased this part with the expectation that it will/should work without all this palaver.
I have asked them (ASUS) to take this matter further with their manufacturing unit and for them to 'fix' this issue and supply the already growing market for these parts with the required 'fix' ASAP.....but I'm not holding my breath.
I think this is a disgusting situation for users/pc repairers to be put into knowing that it is easier to buy a new unit than to repair the old one.
Disgruntled pc repairer
K.P.

Note 8.0 only runs when plugged in - battery 100%

My Note 8 only receives power when plugged in. I have replaced the power port but problem persists. Battery shows 100% but when I remove the power cord it dies. Any help would be appreciated.

Could be bad battery or needs a power reset, open the backside cover and unplug the battery connector and wait 2 minutes, and reconnect.

I did this while installing the new power port. I have ordered a new battery. I'.lol report back with the results. Thanks for your input
fwiw I got this off eBay for $15 so I have some monetary leeway as far as repairs go.

Zweiguys said:
My Note 8 only receives power when plugged in. I have replaced the power port but problem persists. Battery shows 100% but when I remove the power cord it dies. Any help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your tablet only runs when plugged in even when battery is full, possibly the battery connector has some open pins. Re solder the black battery connector may fix it.
Open pins can fool your tablet the battery capacity. For example, disconnect battery cable from battery connector, plugged in and press the HOME button, it will show the green battery icon is charging, then within 30 seconds, it will show the 100% battery icon. When sensor from the mainboard doesn't see any drawing charging current , it will send the signal to charging circuit the battery is full and it should disconnect. This behavior you can test on any Samsung tablet to see if charging port is drawing current to battery connector or it's working.
Any repair shop or anyone knows how to solder can help you, this re solder only takes under 5 minutes and you only need to disconnect battery cable.
Here what it looks like when I fool my tablet by disconnected the battery while charging:
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Best, thanks for that info. I'll do,that test when I open the tablet to install the new battery.

Zweiguys said:
Best, thanks for that info. I'll do,that test when I open the tablet to install the new battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This can be bad battery or open, cracked battery connector. When change new battery, don't put back the rear cover, test if your charging port is working without battery. Then connect the battery, press the HOME button to see the flashing green battery icon. If it's OK, waiting for at least one hour, press the power button to turn on. If it's turn on, you have a bad battery.
If it doesn't turn on with new battery, then the battery connector is the source of problem and need to be re soldered.
This is the battery connector you should look for, I already re soldered this black connector by adding more solders to 6 joints:

Beut, installed new battery today with no change. I did as you suggested and the device did register 100% battery even though one was not present. The area around the battery connector appears to either have corrosion (slight) or maybe a power surge. Just doesn't look right.
I only paid $15 for this and the fact that it runs fine while plugged in I'll probably take it to work and use it to watch the EPL games on Saturdays. Maybe at some point I'll come across a working unit with a bad screen.
Thanks again for your help. Keith

Zweiguys said:
Beut, installed new battery today with no change. I did as you suggested and the device did register 100% battery even though one was not present. The area around the battery connector appears to either have corrosion (slight) or maybe a power surge. Just doesn't look right.
I only paid $15 for this and the fact that it runs fine while plugged in I'll probably take it to work and use it to watch the EPL games on Saturdays. Maybe at some point I'll come across a working unit with a bad screen.
Thanks again for your help. Keith
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think you should re solder this battery connector, it takes only few minutes for who knows how to solder.
Any repair shop can assist you with little charge as it's only a 5 minutes work.
Cracked battery connector is very common in Samsung tablets, not just this tablet.

Maybe I'll give that a shot at some point. I guess I can't make it any worse. The connector looks a little odd near the two red wires coming from the battery.

SM-T800 Battery problem

EDIT: Please move this to Q&A and help section.. sorry.
Hello fellow tablet users.
Since the lost 2 weeks my tablet has been acting weird. It jumps alot on the battery levels, one second having 50% then 13% then suddenly 3% then plugging in the charger it has 50%.
I've tried to charge it fully then making a battery calibration but with no luck.. what should I do next? Full reset?
Kind regards,
Ratty

If you have the 8.4" it`s most likely an bad battery connection, due to an bad power connector or the part of the connector that is soldered to the motherboard coming loose, it`s an common problem with the 8.4" with people bending it while in back pockets ect, less of an problem with the 10.5" as you would need an hell of a back pocket.
Samsung knows about this problem, and according to one 8.4" owner replaced the battery connector with an more heavy duty version, some people say to solder the battery wires directly to the motherboard.
It`s quite easy to open the Tab S, lots of video`s on youtube and you just need an plastic pry tool they call an spluger or an guitar pick, I got an spluger on ebay for £1 an replacement battery is £9 an full kit is around $60 for battery and tools if you can do the job yourself.
https://www.newpower99.com/Samsung_...tery_Kit_p/samsung-galaxy-tab-s-8.4smt700.htm
https://www.newpower99.com/Samsung_...attery_Kit_p/samsung-galaxy-tab-s-sm-t800.htm
John.

ratty123 said:
Since the last 2 weeks my tablet has been acting weird. It jumps alot on the battery levels, one second having 50% then 13% then suddenly 3% then plugging in the charger it has 50%.
I've tried to charge it fully then making a battery calibration but with no luck.. what should I do next? Full reset?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Reset won't solve a hardware problem, it's very common in Samsung tablets : cracked or loose battery connector : male and female.
This is a close look of female connector:
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If it's not fully contact with male connector's pins, you will have battery fluctuation in capacity. The fix is simple: push the opening closer for all six cables.
This is the male connector , it's re soldered to fix battery quick discharge or capacity fluctuation

I'm having this problem for a long time on my TabS 10.5". I think it's time to discard this device but I'm low of budget to buy a good tablet now, is it secure to open it and bypass battery using direct connection to charging cable from the original USB cable? There are some videos on how to do it, but none of this device.

They are not engineered the same as laptops. They always run off the battery, whether the tablet is plugged in or not. This is a series arrangement. A laptop has power source switcher inside and can run off either; that's a parallel arrangement.
The battery completes the circuit. The charge cord doesn't connect directly to the tablet because the battery is in between. Outlet-->charge cord-->battery-->tablet. You can't just jump over a step.The battery completes the circuit. The charge cord doesn't connect directly to the tablet because the battery is in between. Outlet-->charge cord-->battery-->tablet. You can't just jump over a step.
They are designed on an idea that the user will use it on the go, rather than sitting at a fixed location connected to a charger.
As such, the internal circuitry of a tablet allows the device to work only when the battery is connected to it.

Bypass the battery for direct connection
Hi,
I have a similar connector for the battery on a Samsung Tab GT-P5200.
I want to directly connect the (two) wires from USB power source and bypass the defective battery and the normal mimi USB connector.
Therefore can someone help me out with matching the colours?
Tere is just +-(red/black wires on USB) and the connector from the battery has two red, two bue and two black.
I presume at least two should charge the battery and other two should transport the charge from the battery. And the blue ones maybe for control?
Please give me your though, or maybe suggest other place on the bord co connect directly.
Thank you!

Nexus 7 2013 charging very slow (330mAh)

Hi, my nexus 7 is charging very slowly weeks ago, sometimes it couldnt even charge to 100% after overnight charge. I tried different charger and cables but same results.
Please note that the charger and cables is working well as it is charging my note 4 at least 1000mAh .
I tried removing the battery connector for 5mins but it didnt help
Please help!
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Sent from my SM-N930F using XDA-Developers mobile app

limjialok said:
Hi, my nexus 7 is charging very slowly weeks ago, sometimes it couldnt even charge to 100% after overnight charge. I tried different charger and cables but same results.
Please note that the charger and cables is working well as it is charging my note 4 at least 1000mAh .
I tried removing the battery connector for 5mins but it didnt help
Please help!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, higher charging rates are established via protocol negotiation or preset voltage levels on USB data lines, so in your N7 the following could be faulty:
USB connector
soldering of the connector
connection of the wide silver cable between PCBs
Attach your N7 to a PC and check if MTP works. If not, then one of the above will fix the problem.

How do I know if MTP works?
Sent from my SM-N910G using XDA-Developers Legacy app

this started on mine as well. was going to blame the 7.1.1 rom I am running on it as it started the same time I flashed it. Try a wireless qi charging pad

mines charging at 475ma..is this normal or still low, using the official charger unit, but a megnetic cable
checked again, 810ma now

Mine had major problems with touchscreen and charging.
I did the following and fixed all the issues:
1. Disconnect the battery (lift the connector up to disconnect).
2. Disconnect the white flex cable on both sides (lift the little latch up and you should be able to pull out the cable).
3. Clean the flex cable connectors with 99% isopropanol alcohol and q tips (until no grey residue comes off any more).
4. Take out the usb board. Clean the the touchscreen flex cable the same way (the two smaller flex cables next to the white one).
5. Take out the screws of the USB board. Use the q tips and alcohol and clean all of the copper colored groundplanes.
6. Clean out the usb port with some alcohol, while you are at it.
7. Plug in a usb cable and check if it's loose in the socket, if that is the case, use some needle nose pliers and bend the port back to shape (be very careful). Then testfit the cable again.
8. Reassemble everything and test it.
This should've fixed your charge problems, problems with auto rotation and ghost touches, or bad touch recognition.
It has fixed mine
EDIT:
I started off with 50-100ma charge current (wouldn't charge over night) and can now charge with 920ma again (Anker charger and good usb cable).

New battery / USB port = Charges as "USB" only (no Quick Charge) - HELP!

Hi,
My HTC 10's battery wasn't holding a charge for very long and the rear camera needed to be replaced so last night, following instructions online, I opened up the phone, and replaced the LCD screen, the rear housing, the rear camera module, the battery and the USB charging port (which includes microphone and capacitive buttons). I made sure to carefully put everything back together exactly as I took it apart. Every wire, every ribbon, every screw and every piece of tape.
Now that I've got it all back together and buttoned up, I tried charging it. It seems to only recognize chargers as USB (as if it's a computer port) and therefore charges EXTREMELY slow. The battery is OEM HTC and the Charging port also looks OEM, identical to the ones I removed. Anyone know what's going on? I've tried plugging the device into the original HTC QC3 charger and cable as well as an Anker battery pack which also supports QC3.
USB charging speed makes this phone basically unusable now. I use the device constantly throughout the day and it's not going to work like this. Does anyone have any experience taking this phone apart and might have any guesses as to what's going on?
Edit: Here's what a night of being plugged into the official HTC charger + cable looks like. What would have charged the phone fine normally via QC3.
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just becuase it looks oem doesnt mean it is.
I had this happen to me with an m7 way back. Charging port was crap and decided on replacing it instead of dealing with the insurance dectuble. Bought the port for 40 bucks and it came with tool all nicely packaged. Replacement was easy but once i tried the port out it kept giving me a usb prompt for connection options and it would only charge at less than 1 amp. Pull the phone apart again and plug in the old port and bam direct fast charging no prompt.

So I opened the phone back up, and swapped back in the original charging port. Still won't quick charge... How can I be sure it's not some software reset that is needed? I'm almost ready to just cave in and go buy a new phone tomorrow...
Any other ideas? I can try reconnecting the original battery and see if that works next. It's just a huge PITA removing the mid-frame from the rear housing every time. I can't test the phone without the rear housing because of the antennas. It just boot loops if you try.
Edit: I plugged it into a PC USB port and it's not detecting that it's a data port at all, and treats it just like it would a wall charger (albeit charging extremely slowly). That leads me to believe it's not the battery at all and the fact that the old port is doing the same thing is concerning. Could I have damaged something? There are 4 plugs that go into that charger board. The main snap down plug, two small cables and another small ribbon cable. All look to be in good solid condition with no visible damage. Hmm.......

drumz0rz said:
So I opened the phone back up, and swapped back in the original charging port. Still won't quick charge... How can I be sure it's not some software reset that is needed? I'm almost ready to just cave in and go buy a new phone tomorrow...
Any other ideas? I can try reconnecting the original battery and see if that works next. It's just a huge PITA removing the mid-frame from the rear housing every time. I can't test the phone without the rear housing because of the antennas. It just boot loops if you try.
Edit: I plugged it into a PC USB port and it's not detecting that it's a data port at all, and treats it just like it would a wall charger (albeit charging extremely slowly). That leads me to believe it's not the battery at all and the fact that the old port is doing the same thing is concerning. Could I have damaged something? There are 4 plugs that go into that charger board. The main snap down plug, two small cables and another small ribbon cable. All look to be in good solid condition with no visible damage. Hmm.......
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wouldnt trust pc usb ports.
Sounds like it needs to calibrate maybe?. Let it slowcharge until its 100% and reboot.

So I took the phone apart again, took the USB port board off, and wiped it all down with 91% iso including the ribbon connectors, then plugged it all back in. Low and behold, it's working now! Great right? Except in the process of putting the phone back together, I managed to rip off the back button ribbon.... FML
So now that I know the original board is working again, I suspect it had to do with one of the ribbon connectors, specifically the one that's held down by two screws. Maybe it wasn't aligned just right or something.
Tomorrow I'm going to pray to all the non-existent gods and try swapping in the replacement board, cleaning it with iso again, one last time. Hopefully it works.