Related
Just installed a Joying:
. SKU: JY-UL124 . Quad Core Android 5.1.1 Lollipop OS Capacitive 7" High Definition for Universal Double Din . CPU: RK3188 1.6GHz Cortex A9 Quad Core, Resolution 1024*600. RAM：DDR3 1G, 16 GB memory
To my 2014 Australian Hyundai Elantra.
I waited to get the latest HU from Joying that has an unrated mother board and USB/ Comms board. With Lollipop 5.1.1. the unit performs very well with none of the problem previously mentioned on these pages. The internal and external mics are clear and the Bluetooth systems are perfect. Unit has been rooted and I don't seem to need for apps so I won't changed the software.
The dimming for the button and the screen to follow the vehicles rheostat was fixed by making a circuit to invert and amplify the rheostat output to the HU ill line. Work's well, Kudos to the guys at the Subaru forums.
I had one bug fixed by Joying when the GPS nav was muted whenever I plugged in the DVR front camera. Joying quickly sent me a link to re flash my firmware and the problem was fixed. I have them currently looking into a bug when I view the DVR input shown on the HU I get lots of flashing to the screen in all pixel settings. I have been told this will be fixed in the next firmware update soon.
One problem that I can't solve is when I try to use my vehicles Multimedia Jack located in my center console. There is a Aux and USB jack there. All wiring from console to HU is complete. If I connect a USB stick to the Jack in the console then then HU struggles to connect and gives up. If I interrupt the USB plug and socket behind the HU then I am able to use the USB correctly. Looking at the car wiring diagrams there is a amplifier cct behind the Multimedia Jack supposedly to amp up the USB to HU. Doesn't seem to work?
Any ideas appreciated.
Duke
If anyone has any ideas on
i have nothing to add, other than interested to see what the result is. Are you saying that your car comes with a built in hub in the console, and you are trying to make that USB port in the console work to the Joying head unit? my vehicle is similar, and I would like that to work as well
Update
Yes I have a console hub I guess.
The book calls it a multimedia center. Just an Aux port and a USB port or Jack in the tidy bin in the center console. If I by pass the Jacks and directly put the USB stick into the USB tail from the radio then it works fine. When I plug into the console port it tries to read it and fails. The HU then reports a read fail, have tried other known working USB sticks.
I have inspected behind the console jacks and found a cct board attached to the Jacks and then to the car wiring. From looking at the diagrams of the car previous to mine I see a cct board containing what looks like an amplifier. Tracing the car wiring to the radio input connectors seems to be OK and the wiring correct. Voltages at the radio connector are right in that there is 5v +ve, negative - earth and the center pins are data as they should be.
The console Jacks
w.hemanual.org/multimedia_jack_description_and_operation-2037.html
The wiring for same (mine is same but more complex)
w.hemanual.org/multimedia_jack_schematic_diagrams-2036.html
Really bugs me not to be able to access that USB input Jack esp as the radio is a great unit.
You need to post this question in the MTCD (Lollipop) hardware thread. This thread is for MTCB (KitKat) units. The hardware in the MTCD headunits are very different than the MTCB headunits.
bsavoir22 said:
You need to post this question in the MTCD (Lollipop) hardware thread. This thread is for MTCB (KitKat) units. The hardware in the MTCD headunits are very different than the MTCB headunits.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When I tried to repost this in MTCD I get this.
vBulletin Message
To prevent spam, you must have a higher post count in order to make a new thread in this development section. But feel free to make new thread in the non-development sections like General, Q&A, etc. Thanks for your understanding!
Am I still in the wrong section?
Yes, the MTCD thread is for the headunits with 5.1.1. The hardware changes and software are different. Send one of the admin a message and tell the why you need to get the permissions to post. I had to do that some time ago. Just make sure you follow the rules when post or you can have you account suspended or whatever the moderators deem necessary.
Sent from my SM-N910T3 using Tapatalk
Posting
Ok thanks for that. I don't seem to be able to find how to "Send one of the admin a message" Can you help?
Just for info, there are both MTCB/C and MTCD/E Lollipop units.
I have a MTCD GS unit for an Audi TT and I get a feint electrical noise constantly through the cars speakers. If you have music or the radio on it is not too noticable but otherwise it is really obvious. It is definitely the unit as it isn't there with the stock head unit and if you hard reset the GS unit with the reset button whilst it is running it immediately goes away until the unit has booted. It was originally supplied with a RK3188/PX3 board running Android 5.0. I have since replaced the board with a PX5 board and have upgraded it to Android 8.0 (Malaysk). I isn't a software issue and is down to the hardware (I think...).
I have tried disabling WiFi and BlueTooth - although I don't think BlueTooth can be disabled as its not a native Android component of the system - and the noise remains. It is a feint pop and hiss noise that I think is an earth/grounding issue. I was going to replace the cable that goes to the WiFi antenna on the rear socket as this looks flimsy, however I am not sure it will make a difference.
Any ideas?
Andy
dirty power maybe? did you connect a chassis ground for the 0v on the unit.. my harness came with a ground with ring terminal..
Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
I have exactly same problem. But when the colors on LCD screen black : electrical noise increases. Any other color : electrical noise decreases. I will check groundings of unit in this weekend. I ll write here if i find out anything.
stinger4321 said:
dirty power maybe? did you connect a chassis ground for the 0v on the unit.. my harness came with a ground with ring terminal..
Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It shouldn't be dirty power as it connects into the factory loom. I'll take it out at weekend and see if grounding the chassis of the head unit to the car does anything.
Andy
I had this problem on my ksp. Ultimately I found opamps under the sound processor with dirty ground on the feedback resistors. I substituted resistors to the processor board ground header lead. Now all I hear is my fan.
I took the head unit out last weekend and tried earthing the chassis to the car and it made no difference - you can still hear the feint pops and hiss (all I can think to describe it is radio interference?). I also noticed that it gets worse when the cars lights are on and the head unit backlights come on (via CANBUS telling it I assume?).
It is a MTCD GS unit and has an external 'dongle' that is covered with heatshrink that is inline with the audio outputs. This has something to do with the level of the audio out - however I am just guessing here TBH.
Any other ideas how to eliminate this noise?
Cheers
Andy
ADB100 said:
I took the head unit out last weekend and tried earthing the chassis to the car and it made no difference - you can still hear the feint pops and hiss (all I can think to describe it is radio interference?). I also noticed that it gets worse when the cars lights are on and the head unit backlights come on (via CANBUS telling it I assume?).
It is a MTCD GS unit and has an external 'dongle' that is covered with heatshrink that is inline with the audio outputs. This has something to do with the level of the audio out - however I am just guessing here TBH.
Any other ideas how to eliminate this noise?
Cheers
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try grounding the PX5 board heatsink with the unit chassis.
iRcKenny said:
Try grounding the PX5 board heatsink with the unit chassis.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had the same noise issue when the PX3 board was installed and this has a much smaller heatsink than the PX5?
I'll give it a shot but its a bit more involved than just taking the unit out of the car though...
Andy
ADB100 said:
I had the same noise issue when the PX3 board was installed and this has a much smaller heatsink than the PX5?
I'll give it a shot but its a bit more involved than just taking the unit out of the car though...
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, you also have that noise before upgrading the core board, have you any chance to temporaly install another common radio like low budget Pionner, Alpine or similar? If yes check if the noise persist; some TT owners with noise from speakers said that the cause is the factory amplifier.
Have luck!
i have heard that the problem may be from the antenna, try getting a noise filter for the antenna
Record the noise with a video. Some quiet electrical noise is common, but we're talking almost silent and only when no music is playing at all.
ADB100 said:
I took the head unit out last weekend and tried earthing the chassis to the car and it made no difference - you can still hear the feint pops and hiss (all I can think to describe it is radio interference?). I also noticed that it gets worse when the cars lights are on and the head unit backlights come on (via CANBUS telling it I assume?).
It is a MTCD GS unit and has an external 'dongle' that is covered with heatshrink that is inline with the audio outputs. This has something to do with the level of the audio out - however I am just guessing here TBH.
Any other ideas how to eliminate this noise?
Cheers
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same thing on my A3 and although it doesn’t really bother me I’d be interested to see if someone finds a fix. On the A3’s it only affects the ones with Bose.
All my cabling is exactly the same as yours aswell.
I once emailed a company that sells the factory Bose amps for the audis and reconditions them and the bloke said that the signal sent to the Bose amp from the aftermarket headunit is different to the signal that is sent from the factory unit so I’d guess it’s something to do with that.
In regards to the dongle thing in heatshrink, that is a little board with a plug on it that the audio cables plug into. My speakers stopped working so I cut that open once and the connector had become unplugged inside. I think it’s there because the blue amp cable is connected through it aswell which is supposed to be for the amp to turn it on and that blue cable never used to be there on the older model units.
I have the same issue on my brand new dasaita 10.2 inch px5 android 8. Connected through RCA to my amp.
I will do some troubleshooting and see if I can figure it out.
BTW, there is a very loud static noise when my bluetooth is connected to my phone, I emailed dasaita about that particular issue.
checksum123 said:
I have the same issue on my brand new dasaita 10.2 inch px5 android 8. Connected through RCA to my amp.
I will do some troubleshooting and see if I can figure it out.
BTW, there is a very loud static noise when my bluetooth is connected to my phone, I emailed dasaita about that particular issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same unit with the same issues. Hot Audio sent me a replacement bluetooth module to solder in. That fixed the bluetooth noise. I still have slight background hiss all the time.
could you guys please take a look at my issue which includes electrical noise - even when radio is off.
e.g.
- downloading maps on Sygic, there is a clicking that goes with the increase in % of the download.
- browsing the menu and / or selecting apps has a varying noise
Interestingly, the rear-camera power seems unstable as does the GPS.
I also noted, that i couldn't power the unit on the bench via the vw quadlock connector, i had to use the white connector.
Makes me wonder if there is some general grounding problem that is the problem.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...droid-8-px5-mtcelmv2-881-vw-multiple-t3884665
I have an equal problem with my eonon px3 7.1, which is then klyde. Light rustling always constant, then when I register with the front usb camera the noise is much higher and seems a squeak of mouse .. I changed mb sent by them but the problem remains, even connecting the ground to the chassis of the car. Quache solution please guys, I'm going crazy.
gwaitsi said:
could you guys please take a look at my issue which includes electrical noise - even when radio is off.
e.g.
- downloading maps on Sygic, there is a clicking that goes with the increase in % of the download.
- browsing the menu and / or selecting apps has a varying noise
Interestingly, the rear-camera power seems unstable as does the GPS.
I also noted, that i couldn't power the unit on the bench via the vw quadlock connector, i had to use the white connector.
Makes me wonder if there is some general grounding problem that is the problem.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...droid-8-px5-mtcelmv2-881-vw-multiple-t3884665
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ADB100 said:
I have a MTCD GS unit for an Audi TT and I get a feint electrical noise constantly through the cars speakers. If you have music or the radio on it is not too noticable but otherwise it is really obvious. It is definitely the unit as it isn't there with the stock head unit and if you hard reset the GS unit with the reset button whilst it is running it immediately goes away until the unit has booted. It was originally supplied with a RK3188/PX3 board running Android 5.0. I have since replaced the board with a PX5 board and have upgraded it to Android 8.0 (Malaysk). I isn't a software issue and is down to the hardware (I think...).
I have tried disabling WiFi and BlueTooth - although I don't think BlueTooth can be disabled as its not a native Android component of the system - and the noise remains. It is a feint pop and hiss noise that I think is an earth/grounding issue. I was going to replace the cable that goes to the WiFi antenna on the rear socket as this looks flimsy, however I am not sure it will make a difference.
Any ideas?
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same isue, almost gone when changed the poor quality antenna from the WIFI (used a 9DB antenna)
Pick one from amazon,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GDCLVPJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can try to purchase a extension canble an antenna and put away from the unit and the engine.
In my case the pops and hiss almos gone and are barely noticiable.
The qualty of the original antenna is horrible.
jerrymh said:
I have the same isue, almost gone when changed the poor quality antenna from the WIFI (used a 9DB antenna)
Pick one from amazon,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GDCLVPJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can try to purchase a extension canble an antenna and put away from the unit and the engine.
In my case the pops and hiss almos gone and are barely noticiable.
The qualty of the original antenna is horrible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
by that token, simply turning off the wifi would prove it no?
gwaitsi said:
by that token, simply turning off the wifi would prove it no?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You would think so wouldn't you?
I have a couple of spare SMA WiFi antennas that I can try. If I get some time later today I'll try and get the head unit out of the dash and try them. I'll post whether it makes any difference (the spare antenna I have might also be crap though...).
Andy
What I found helped is that I put some ferrite beads on the power cables to the headunit and the speaker cables from the unit. It hasn’t totally removed the issue but it is certainly better and I haven’t lost any sound quality(if anything it’s slightly better as there’s less interference).
Hi,
I have a BMW E90 with a Eonon GA7165a PX5 userdebug 6.0.1 MXC89L with MCU Version MTCD_WWW_V2.58.1
I have the optional dab Adaptor they call V0054, it has a single USB cable out of it that plugs into the rear of the head unit and a DAB ariel that goes to the windscreen
this started back in April when I bought it maybe 50% of the stations had terrible interference and distortion on them no matter where i was whereas the remaining stations, (magic, xradio, chill.... ect were clear)
I logged it as a problem with Eonon support (which is dreadful btw) to which they told me that i needed a stronger active ariel so i left it until i got one in august,
I bought an active ariel and fitted it, and guess what exactly the same only stronger signal.
I have since discovered that the channels are only broken when the car is running and if the car isnt started every single channel is clear, and as soon as you crank the car over it distorts, and soon as you stop it, it clears back up again, below is my video of what happens, ignore the red light on the dash at the time of recording it, I needed new rear pads lol
https://youtu.be/X6GGmsABsfw
I logged it again as a problem and they this time tell me that i need a new dab adaptor and as it is beyond the 60 days warranty i will need to buy another adaptor. I can almost guarantee this isnt the case and its probbabily just interference from somewhere but i cannot eliminate it for love nor money.
any help is greatly appreciated
mick
Hopefully, I'm posting in the correct sub-forum.
I have a Peugeot 308 (2012).
This is the head unit.
These are the full specifications:
Rockchip PX5 (2017)
ARM Cortex-A53 Octa-core ≤ 1.5GHz (28nm)
PowerVR G6110 GPU (2014)
4 GB DDR3
AOSP Android 8.0
1024x600
STMicroelectronics TDA7388 audio power amplifier (2013)
STMicroelectronics TDA7786 AM/FM funer (2016)
In the software itself, it shows:
Manufacturer: rockchip
Model number: PX5
Android version: 8.0.0
Android security patch level: October 5, 2017
Kernel version: 4.4.93+; [email protected] #121; Fri Jan 26 10:41:07 CST 2018
Build number: px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPG5.170623.007 eng.hct.20180126.113204 test-keys
MCU version: MTCE_CHS_V2.76_1; Dec 20 2017 15:49:46
CPU: 8 core 64-bit CPU Coretex-A53 @ 1.5G
When I plug my stock Peugeot head unit in, the rear speakers work perfectly.
However, they do not on this Android head unit.
They're not totally silent, they're about 2-3% "static"-type sound.
Any ideas?
King Mustard said:
Hopefully, I'm posting in the correct sub-forum.
I have a Peugeot 308 (2012).
Rockchip PX5 (2017)
Model number: PX5
Android version: 8.0.0
Build number: px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPG5.170623.007 eng.hct.20180126.113204 test-keys
MCU version: MTCE_CHS_V2.76_1; Dec 20 2017 15:49:46
When I plug my stock Peugeot head unit in, the rear speakers work perfectly.
However, they do not on this Android head unit.
They're not totally silent, they're about 2-3% "static"-type sound.
Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What did the reseller suggest?
marchnz said:
What did the reseller suggest?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Was on AliExpress - so never a single response.
King Mustard said:
Hopefully, I'm posting in the correct sub-forum.
I have a Peugeot 308 (2012).
This is the head unit.
These are the full specifications:
Rockchip PX5 (2017)
ARM Cortex-A53 Octa-core ≤ 1.5GHz (28nm)
PowerVR G6110 GPU (2014)
4 GB DDR3
AOSP Android 8.0
1024x600
STMicroelectronics TDA7388 audio power amplifier (2013)
STMicroelectronics TDA7786 AM/FM funer (2016)
In the software itself, it shows:
Manufacturer: rockchip
Model number: PX5
Android version: 8.0.0
Android security patch level: October 5, 2017
Kernel version: 4.4.93+; [email protected] #121; Fri Jan 26 10:41:07 CST 2018
Build number: px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPG5.170623.007 eng.hct.20180126.113204 test-keys
MCU version: MTCE_CHS_V2.76_1; Dec 20 2017 15:49:46
CPU: 8 core 64-bit CPU Coretex-A53 @ 1.5G
When I plug my stock Peugeot head unit in, the rear speakers work perfectly.
However, they do not on this Android head unit.
They're not totally silent, they're about 2-3% "static"-type sound.
Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried, just for a test, to exchange output wires? if not try remove the audio out wires from the harness (1st make a photos for reference) and replace position: front speakers to rear speaker and rear speakers to front speakers; then check if the issue is still present and you dont ear sound from, in this case, front speaker (the audio output was originally connected to rear)
If not swap again the wires cheking the right polarity (maybe was a incorrect harness position); if the issue still present probably you have a faulty unit.
Hope that help
iRcKenny said:
Have you tried, just for a test, to exchange output wires? if not try remove the audio out wires from the harness (1st make a photos for reference) and replace position: front speakers to rear speaker and rear speakers to front speakers; then check if the issue is still present and you dont ear sound from, in this case, front speaker (the audio output was originally connected to rear)
If not swap again the wires cheking the right polarity (maybe was a incorrect harness position); if the issue still present probably you have a faulty unit.
Hope that help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If I'm honest, I'm not sure what much of what you said means.
Please see the attached photo.
At the moment, I only have F connected. All seven cables for F have a female RCA connector. Only green is currently being used.
AV-OUT (1) (yellow)
AV-OUT (2) (yellow)
FL OUT (white)
RL OUT (white)
FR OUT (red)
RR OUT (red)
Subwoofer (green) - Currently connected to my subwoofer
I am currently getting sound out of my front speakers (presumably through the Power section) and my subwoofer but there is nothing coming out of the rear speakers.
If I connect the original, basic Peugeot stereo, I get sound out of the front and rear speakers. This suggests the Power cables alone can do both; though they're not working for my new head unit.
Connected to Power is a ton of cabling. This is some of it:
AUX IN L (white) - RCA male (not currently in use)
AUX IN R (red) - RCA male (not currently in use)
BACK V IN (yellow) - RCA female (not currently in use)
I have spliced the AUTO ANT with the subwoofer, to power it.
From that information, does anyone know why I may not be getting sound out of the rear speakers?
King Mustard said:
If I'm honest, I'm not sure what much of what you said means.
Please see the attached photo.
At the moment, I only have F connected. All seven cables for F have a female RCA connector. Only green is currently being used.
AV-OUT (1) (yellow)
AV-OUT (2) (yellow)
FL OUT (white)
RL OUT (white)
FR OUT (red)
RR OUT (red)
Subwoofer (green) - Currently connected to my subwoofer
I am currently getting sound out of my front speakers (presumably through the Power section) and my subwoofer but there is nothing coming out of the rear speakers.
If I connect the original, basic Peugeot stereo, I get sound out of the front and rear speakers. This suggests the Power cables alone can do both; though they're not working for my new head unit.
Connected to Power is a ton of cabling. This is some of it:
AUX IN L (white) - RCA male (not currently in use)
AUX IN R (red) - RCA male (not currently in use)
BACK V IN (yellow) - RCA female (not currently in use)
I have spliced the AUTO ANT with the subwoofer, to power it.
From that information, does anyone know why I may not be getting sound out of the rear speakers?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
RCA F Connectors are only used with and external amplificator, they are pre-out
I recently bought a crude DSP unit which sits in between the head unit and my ISO connection, when i installed it i got no sound from rear speakers, I discovered I needed to change the setting in Factory where it says Amplifier (it was no, i changed it to auto detect) I can no longer control the fade F R but all rear speakers work now.
Try it and see if it helps.
Between now and the last post, I bought a Pumpkin ND0286B head unit. I had the same issue with that.
I bought a Pioneer MVH-A200VBT (£130) today and installed it.
Driving to some shops (20 minutes away), everything was fine.
After shopping, I turned the engine on and had the same familiar fault - could only hear the subwoofer.
After a few seconds, the head unit started to flash: AMP Error.
So it wasn't an issue with the Chinese Android-based head units after all
Does this help you, perhaps, narrow down what the issue could be and how I could go about fixing it?
Amplifier, go to fader, then change position of big dot/press CENTER?
King Mustard said:
Between now and the last post, I bought a Pumpkin ND0286B head unit. I had the same issue with that.
I bought a Pioneer MVH-A200VBT (£130) today and installed it.
Driving to some shops (20 minutes away), everything was fine.
After shopping, I turned the engine on and had the same familiar fault - could only hear the subwoofer.
After a few seconds, the head unit started to flash: AMP Error.
So it wasn't an issue with the Chinese Android-based head units after all
Does this help you, perhaps, narrow down what the issue could be and how I could go about fixing it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What items have you thought about investigating? Wiring, shorts to speakers and or speaker fault?
Without basic troubleshooting skills and tools, perhaps consult local expertise.
guys please help me , i dont have fader sound option in setting , what could i do plz
aysoy said:
guys please help me , i dont have fader sound option in setting , what could i do
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Guyz,
Is it an MTCD/E?
marchnz said:
Hi Guyz,
Is it an MTCD/E?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
marchnz said:
Hi Guyz,
Is it an MTCD/E?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
@aysoy guy,
Not an MTCD.
Try Android Head-units forum.
Hello folks,
I have a PX6 unit with Android 10 in a VW T5 Multivan, 2007.
Everything except the FM radio worked fine for a few months (very bad reception) but I was happy because I only use navigation and sound over bluetooth from my phone.
One day I got some noice from the speakers as a small warning before a big BOOOM a few seconds later. It is a really loud "discharge" from the speakers and obviously not good for the unit. Feels like a mini thunderstorm inside my car The head unit goes back to normal after the big bang but the noice starts building up again and a few minutes later, the same thing.
After the third BOOOM the amplifier broke and I could no longer hear any sound from apps and bluetooth (FM radio was still working)
I contacted the seller and he sent me a new amplifier. Hard work for me, but I desoldered the old one and replaced it. It worked and I was back to normal for a while.
Today, the big BOOOOM was back.
Any idea what can cause this behavior and how to solve it before I burn my second amp?
TIA,
David
Is it an MTCD device
marchnz said:
Is it an MTCD device
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ooops. I remember incorrectly after I double checked. It is an MTCE unit. Which forum is the best for my question?
duelago said:
Ooops. I remember incorrectly after I double checked. It is an MTCE unit. Which forum is the best for my question?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're in the correct forum.
Check speakers / wiring and speaker impedance. If unsure seek advice from reputable local installer