Develop Bugs

UNIVERSAL : need a Coaxial Cable Pre-assy replacement

Hello
I am new on this forum, sorry if this type of question has alreday been answered.
I've got a UNIVERSAL/ SPV M500 and the Coaxial Cable (linking the screen and the keyboard) has been twisted and is damaged.
Where can I find/buy a spare part to replace it ? the reference number is 73H00233-01M (Coaxial Cable Pre-assembly) as indicated in the service manual.
Thank for your help.

Hey,
If you find it let me know, I need one two. Actually these are two cables the Coaxial (Display) and Coaxial (Functional). My screen goes white in landscape mode and I confirmed it's the cable by disassembling my machine. However was unable to find that cable Will let you know if I find it.

Me too.
I am getting odd touch screen errors and think it can only be the cable.
If anyone knows of a supplier, please post here.
Has anyone tried contacting HTC directly?

I've tried HTC europe , they forwarded me to the local repair centre. this one do not sell spare parts without repairing the item.
I'm trying to contact various shops . I'll let you know if it is successful

villard said:
I've tried HTC europe , they forwarded me to the local repair centre. this one do not sell spare parts without repairing the item.
I'm trying to contact various shops . I'll let you know if it is successful
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks,
Please do let me know, I really need that cable.
MOBILER

Finally ... got cables !
Here mate ... take this adress
http://qinyieproduct.diytrade.com/sdp/444314/4/pd-2468984/2411741-0.html
villard said:
Hello
I am new on this forum, sorry if this type of question has alreday been answered.
I've got a UNIVERSAL/ SPV M500 and the Coaxial Cable (linking the screen and the keyboard) has been twisted and is damaged.
Where can I find/buy a spare part to replace it ? the reference number is 73H00233-01M (Coaxial Cable Pre-assembly) as indicated in the service manual.
Thank for your help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

found coaxial cable for £60 plus vat.
villard said:
I've tried HTC europe , they forwarded me to the local repair centre. this one do not sell spare parts without repairing the item.
I'm trying to contact various shops . I'll let you know if it is successful
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Give this site a look, http://www.apexlaptops.co.uk/Universal.htm
I have been having the same problems as you guys. my uni have been getting "white screen of death" for about 6 months now.
I am going to take out the cable and try and fix it myself. (fingers crossed)
I will let you all know how it goes. I felt £60 plus vat and postage was a bit steep.

coax cable
Fixed it!!
I took apart my uni down to the last screw, and rebuilt it.
In the process I did find that i am missing an antenna in the back, it should have 3 but only has 2. oh well it works.
The 3rd antenna is for 3g and i am not on 3.
Anyway back to my uni.
The coax conectors where a little lose, so after a good clean in a solven cleaner and popped back in to the conector holder, after playing for 20 mins I found that they poped back out verry slightly, just enough to make the screen go white and not function.
So the solution is to make sure it does'nt come back out.
ok.
well I have as a tempery solution put a tiny bit of foam on top of the connecter and held it in place with a bit of tape.
If this works for longer than a month then i will solder the cable down.
Touch wood it seems to be working. I will try and get some photos done tonight
gingerchristopher.

Hi,
Congratulations!
What tools did you use for this job(srews, tweezers)?
gingerchristopher said:
Fixed it!!
I took apart my uni down to the last screw, and rebuilt it.
In the process I did find that i am missing an antenna in the back, it should have 3 but only has 2. oh well it works.
The 3rd antenna is for 3g and i am not on 3.
Anyway back to my uni.
The coax conectors where a little lose, so after a good clean in a solven cleaner and popped back in to the conector holder, after playing for 20 mins I found that they poped back out verry slightly, just enough to make the screen go white and not function.
So the solution is to make sure it does'nt come back out.
ok.
well I have as a tempery solution put a tiny bit of foam on top of the connecter and held it in place with a bit of tape.
If this works for longer than a month then i will solder the cable down.
Touch wood it seems to be working. I will try and get some photos done tonight
gingerchristopher.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

re: fixed it
Yes just a torex screwdriver size 6 to take out the 4 security screws in the battery tray, watch makers screwdrivers and a pair of fine point tweezers.
still having problems with my camera so photos will follow when i take it apart to solder.

ang how about antistatic gloves?
gingerchristopher said:
Yes just a torex screwdriver size 6 to take out the 4 security screws in the battery tray, watch makers screwdrivers and a pair of fine point tweezers.
still having problems with my camera so photos will follow when i take it apart to solder.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Anti Static gloves!!
Because of the Job I do, I have an earthing band to connect the phone and me to the wall, and put the phone on an anti static table cover. All is good so far. I am looking at Feb to solder (as i have some leave in). There will be detailed photos and description.
Untill then........

Just found a coax on e-bay
Hi I hope anyone who is after this coax cable can read this before the weekend is out, as there is one on e-bay for £40 this is the link.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-O2-XDA-EX...9QQihZ020QQcategoryZ41343QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Chris.

Good done man go ahaed, and plz try to post the photos.
Another question, my universal some times lost its external speaker sound, so i cannot hear the rings, when i press on the back of the device, exactly on the battery cover in the middle between the two dummy holes and the usb port, it works again. Do u think that this is due to the coaxial damage also, even i don'y have any problem in the screen??

hbahaie said:
Good done man go ahaed, and plz try to post the photos.
Another question, my universal some times lost its external speaker sound, so i cannot hear the rings, when i press on the back of the device, exactly on the battery cover in the middle between the two dummy holes and the usb port, it works again. Do u think that this is due to the coaxial damage also, even i don'y have any problem in the screen??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
nope. open up and check the contacts

omega_ said:
nope. open up and check the contacts
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much for your advice, I'll check. Thanks

hbahaie said:
Thank you very much for your advice, I'll check. Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have disassembled my uni and checked for all connections, but there was no improvement. I can confirm that the disappearance of external speakers sound is not due to co-axial cable. The proof is that i extracted my main borad from my uni and implanted it in another one, i assumed that the problem will be rsolved, but the same problem still exists. Ok, now i can disassemble my uni for smallest piece, but any one advise me where is th connection part or the piece that causes that problem. Again a brief description of the problem:
when there is a coming call, i cannot here the ring or it is sevrely intermitent, also when i play any WMP file, i cannot here the sound, if I press firmly on the base or around the keyboard the sound comes again and may last for a few minutes or disappear after another press. So, there is a lose part in the main board i think that needs fixation, but which one????

Hi all
Now it takes me more than a month to upgrade my JASJAR due to a lot of problems I faced during this upgrading adventure… anyway, the last problem I still have is that after upgrading the screen goes crazy, I mean if you press on the screen the colours are mixed for few seconds and then its ok but at any time I touch the screen again the same happened so you can imagine what if I am going to dial a number or write a message …. So can anyone advice me what to do? …
The rom version is 1.13.82
Radio 1.04.02
Extrom 1.13.188
And I think the bootloader 1.00 and I don’t know why I feel that the bootloader is the reason ... I made a deep search but I couldn’t find problem like mine

gingerchristopher said:
The coax conectors where a little lose, so after a good clean in a solven cleaner and popped back in to the conector holder, after playing for 20 mins I found that they poped back out verry slightly, just enough to make the screen go white and not function.
So the solution is to make sure it does'nt come back out.
ok.
well I have as a tempery solution put a tiny bit of foam on top of the connecter and held it in place with a bit of tape.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sitting next to my M5000 and all of a sudden the screen turned on but was white!
Following your lead I found that the first i.e. 'underneath' connector was not fully home. A little push and all is well.
Took the time to pack out the housing for the stylus to stop the little blighter escaping whilst in there.
Thank you for taking the time to post gingerchristopher.
Pete

Pinout from Ext mini USB and Headset

I measured that here. I hope that that correct is.
EDIT:
New attach file updated!

... nice job
PavelR.

nice!
Could you also determine the values of the capacitors?

FANTASTIC, just sitting here wondering about the pinout - perfect timing!
Merry Xmas

Hello !!
thank you ...
please, you know what is the purpose of this circuit ?? only volume & micro ?
thank you.

david.c said:
Hello !!
thank you ...
please, you know what is the purpose of this circuit ?? only volume & micro ?
thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
With the schematic, one could make an adapter that will allow charging the device and at the same time listening to fm radio or mp3s with or without a headset

Thank's ...
I'll try to do it ... but ... maybe I can conect directly to pint 1 on the headset .....

zerimar said:
With the schematic, one could make an adapter that will allow charging the device and at the same time listening to fm radio or mp3s with or without a headset
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Or, charge the Pocket PC whilst having the SatNav audio from TTNAV come out of your car speakers using the car stereo's (auto-faded) external SatNav input...

Hi,
thanks for the layout!!
Does anyone know where to buy the 11-pin mini-usb plug?
cheers
tom

Hi,
search for mini usb at: www.digi-key.com (or .de); www.segor.de
Kind regards,
hqqh

hqqh said:
Hi,
search for mini usb at: www.digi-key.com (or .de); www.segor.de
Kind regards,
hqqh
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry,
can't find any 11pole plugs there

Wher I can get the ext-mini usb? I d'ont have original headphones, but maybe I can use this scheme and make it myself..

So I tried this yesterday without success...anybody tell me where I went wrong...oh btw I am NOT an audio / electrical engineer so I may have made basic mistake.
I took original headset cable and cut off earbuds. Purchase 3.5mm female stereo line socket. Opened silver case and identified green was R+ and red L+.
Connected red to silver bayonet on line socket and green to copper. Connected LG & RG to main bar on socket.
Then connected radio transmitted to line socket...got absolutely no sound.
Any ideas?
Is my cabling correct?
Eoin

Try with this:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=284446

Hi,
Just seen ur circuit diagram. Really Good
Is this for an external circuit(to make ur own speaker/mic/chrager), or is it the internal circuit of the phone?
I'm after the internal circuit diagram of the microphone/usb circuit with component values as I knocked off a component whilst cleaning it(water damage) & now have no microphone unless I use the headset. DOH!
Any ideas
Cheers

has anyone actually built this circuit?
How can you if you dont know the values of the caps and resistors?

Stal-Ker said:
I measured that here. I hope that that correct is.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thank you very much

hi.
i want charging Diagram of the O2 Orbit(ARTEMIS 200)
Batter connector
actually i have unfortunatelly connected 12 volt to charge the set.
now when i plug charger into set,
set displays charger for only abt 5 seconds
and after it didnt display charging and also didnt charge.

muskangul said:
hi.
i want charging Diagram of the O2 Orbit(ARTEMIS 200)
Batter connector
actually i have unfortunatelly connected 12 volt to charge the set.
now when i plug charger into set,
set displays charger for only abt 5 seconds
and after it didnt display charging and also didnt charge.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I could be wrong but I think you are going to have problems: 1) getting the diagram you need and 2) fixing that phone!
12 volts would definitely do damage ... if it is anything like my Hermes it only handles 5. 12 may have burned out components .. components you may not be able to verify as operational just by visual inspection, and that may require expensive tools to diagnose , let alone repair.
If I were you , I would get my info off the phone while it still works, sell it for parts , and get yourself a new one.
But in any case, I wish you all the luck in the world!

elysion said:
nice!
Could you also determine the values of the capacitors?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any pointers arround value of capicitors ?

Official Samsung Desktop Dock Internals!

Here it is!
Things we now know for sure.
1. It Does not have BT.
2. It uses SPDIF out of the middle pin.
3. It has a TOSLINK 3.5mm connector for line out/ digital optical audio out.
4. It uses a PULSUS PSM702 chip and a COREDRIVER GC89C510A0 microcontroller

buy it?
now does anybody knows where i can buy the piece in picture number 3??

lionheart7282 said:
now does anybody knows where i can buy the piece in picture number 3??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That would make this DIY even better!
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1493797

Looks like that chip connected to the pogo dock is a coreriver SC.
http://www.coreriver.com/product-lines/top_CORERIVERmcu.html
I can make out GC89C??? so probably a midas 2.2 or 2.4 programmable microprocessor.
Looks like we will need to follow the lead from here to get a dock working properly.

Hey, Could you send me some higher resolution pictures of the board? I am specifically interested in the small chip near were the pogo pin cable gets attached to the main board. Or the numbers off of it would be good
Also, do you have access to an oscilloscope or logic analyzer? I have been trying to get a dock to play with myself, but it is taking some time

silverchris said:
Hey, Could you send me some higher resolution pictures of the board? I am specifically interested in the small chip near were the pogo pin cable gets attached to the main board. Or the numbers off of it would be good
Also, do you have access to an oscilloscope or logic analyzer? I have been trying to get a dock to play with myself, but it is taking some time
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried reading the all thee numbers off it but it is obscured by what looks like a black marker dot. All I can read is GC89C5, I believe there are at least 3 more numbers/letters.
I do not have access to either an oscilloscope or logic analyzer.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using XDA
EDIT: After a closer look and some better lighting we have a GC89C510A0

Sorry, I meant the one near the mark "U9" above VBUS +5V

silverchris said:
Sorry, I meant the one near the mark "U9" above VBUS +5V
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It reads 0524P, Looks like a ESD chip.

If any of you actually make one of the diy versions you should sell them since i won't buy samsungs way to overpriced
for me, by me and I love you

[Q] Am I totally bricked now???

So my FTV came in today (it was free from Giggle points... but still) - Of course, having been around Android for years and always rooting I had to look into it.
It seemed it didn't have new FW until my wife took iota upon herself to set it up and it received the newest update (Wife is an IT person as well - but not interested in hacking devices...)
So I figured, no problem - I'll use the emmc method - I ordered my adapter, but while I waited I thought I would solder up my pins, which is no issue - Soldering is easy.
All points are good, so I figured I would check it out to make sure it still powered up and booted - and low and behold, I'm stuck at the Amazon FireTV logo screen . (and the white led pulsates a bit...). The point where the resister is, I did decoder the entire resistor, so I soldered a wire on the other side and connected it to the other side. Still no luck...
Is there anything I should look at? All solder points are good .... No shorts or anything like that.....
** Edit ** I knew I needed a new solder tip - so now I think I have no more pad on the Resistor point closest to the chip - Usually the Resistors have another connection,. Does anyone know where it connects to as an alternate solder point?
Thanks for any ideas...

PensFan66 said:
So my FTV came in today (it was free from Giggle points... but still) - Of course, having been around Android for years and always rooting I had to look into it.
It seemed it didn't have new FW until my wife took iota upon herself to set it up and it received the newest update (Wife is an IT person as well - but not interested in hacking devices...)
So I figured, no problem - I'll use the emmc method - I ordered my adapter, but while I waited I thought I would solder up my pins, which is no issue - Soldering is easy.
All points are good, so I figured I would check it out to make sure it still powered up and booted - and low and behold, I'm stuck at the Amazon FireTV logo screen . (and the white led pulsates a bit...). The point where the resister is, I did decoder the entire resistor, so I soldered a wire on the other side and connected it to the other side. Still no luck...
Is there anything I should look at? All solder points are good .... No shorts or anything like that.....
** Edit ** I knew I needed a new solder tip - so now I think I have no more pad on the Resistor point closest to the chip - Usually the Resistors have another connection,. Does anyone know where it connects to as an alternate solder point?
Thanks for any ideas...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure if i got you right, you accedently removed the pad from the PCB?. In that case it is a very importent question which one. As long as you the the firetv booting there is still a clock and and you probably just need to remove the wires you connected as they work as antennas and will confuse the signals on the busses.
If you rely lost the pad (and the firetv isn't booting at all, no blinky led no amazon logo on tv) and it depends which pad is gone. The one where the wiki tells you to solder the clock wire to or the closer to the cpu. Its unlikly that there is another pad between this one and the cpu. You may need to scratch VERY CAREFULLY some of the PCB top away to connect to the wire that lead to the lost pad.
Can you add a picture?

Thanks for the reply....
I toyed around with it last night a bit, and the boot lock must have been caused by that pad and the little connection I had - It would boot to that point but not anywhere past that. Like you said, if its not connected at all the FTV just sits there with no power.
So I can make a connection and currently my FTV works but I have put solder between the two pads. My concern is when IO get my eMMC reader, I need to remove that solder and if this is the last time I can do it (In case I lose what connection I have there) - I was hoping for a backup plan.
I thought about the trace on the PCB, but I don't see one from that Resistor - its odd, not on either side of the PCB - I wasn't sure, but doubted, it may have more than two layers?

I think I have it --- So around the same area there are 4 resistors, and I can see the traces for 3 of them, they go to a capacitor near the CPU. So I logically figured the same for the resistor I no longer have a pad for - In a meter, they theory is correct - so the resistors go to the Capacitor. If I need to, I should be able to go furthest solder pad for the resistor to the capacitor side... With any luck, I can avoid it - but I like a plan B....

PensFan66 said:
I think I have it --- So around the same area there are 4 resistors, and I can see the traces for 3 of them, they go to a capacitor near the CPU. So I logically figured the same for the resistor I no longer have a pad for - In a meter, they theory is correct - so the resistors go to the Capacitor. If I need to, I should be able to go furthest solder pad for the resistor to the capacitor side... With any luck, I can avoid it - but I like a plan B....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
very goodm, you go for it i am rooting for you

PensFan66 said:
... it may have more than two layers?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guarantee that it does.
I used to do layout and library support for a living. Now it's just the other way around. Anything with fine pitch BGAs (Ball Grid Arrays) is going to be multi-layer.
This thing has four: https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Amazon+Fire+TV+Teardown/23856

iff10 - . Thanks ... With any luck I can avoid it, but if that pad becomes useless, I can't lose anything trying it to the capacitor direct ...
Wellers - Yep, that makes sense - I assumed it had to ... Always a cool design, but makes finding certain paths a little difficult ....

*Ripped off antenna from motherboard*

Hi guys i was replacing the screen on asus zenfone 2 after cracking it and while doing so i ripped of the port on motherboard to which the antenna connects like with roots . And right now i cant use my sim cards because no antenna)))
Any thoughts how can i fix it? or where can i buy new motherboard? Maybe asus service center can fix it for money? i mean phone is ideal but no antennat for now maybe i can solder it? Will it do the trick?

Did you ripped the connector in the upper (big) or lower (small) board?

Alexuzb1 said:
Hi guys i was replacing the screen on asus zenfone 2 after cracking it and while doing so i ripped of the port on motherboard to which the antenna connects like with roots . And right now i cant use my sim cards because no antenna)))
Any thoughts how can i fix it? or where can i buy new motherboard? Maybe asus service center can fix it for money? i mean phone is ideal but no antennat for now maybe i can solder it? Will it do the trick?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This can be sent to ASUS for out-of-warranty service. Unfortunately we are unable to provide an estimate until the phone is received and evaluated. If you would like to send in for service please feel free to contact me direct at [email protected]. Please include a link to this post when responding.
Sincerely,
Frank
ASUS_USA

Alexuzb1 said:
Hi guys i was replacing the screen on asus zenfone 2 after cracking it and while doing so i ripped of the port on motherboard to which the antenna connects like with roots . And right now i cant use my sim cards because no antenna)))
Any thoughts how can i fix it? or where can i buy new motherboard? Maybe asus service center can fix it for money? i mean phone is ideal but no antennat for now maybe i can solder it? Will it do the trick?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
dear alex i have the same problem as yours and i know the fix, i manage to peel off the surface of the motherboard; using a thin razor blade, where the center pad is missing, the rest of it on the sides is ground, i manage to trace the track to a resistor inside of the shielding can, and i make jumper to the antenna cable and voila the signal is showing again and all working fine, if you can provide the photo of the board (remove the shielding) i can draw you the line to make the cable jumper...

Asus_USA said:
This can be sent to ASUS for out-of-warranty service. Unfortunately we are unable to provide an estimate until the phone is received and evaluated. If you would like to send in for service please feel free to contact me direct at [email protected]. Please include a link to this post when responding.
Sincerely,
Frank
ASUS_USA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
is it alright if i email you, i happened to do the same while replacing my screen ?

touji said:
dear alex i have the same problem as yours and i know the fix, i manage to peel off the surface of the motherboard; using a thin razor blade, where the center pad is missing, the rest of it on the sides is ground, i manage to trace the track to a resistor inside of the shielding can, and i make jumper to the antenna cable and voila the signal is showing again and all working fine, if you can provide the photo of the board (remove the shielding) i can draw you the line to make the cable jumper...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a similar problem too and will appreciate if you could guide me on how to rather solder it inside the shielding can. I soldered it back to the original place but it is not firm and does not seem to have a solid base. I am yet to replace the screen which is damaged as a result of the phone falling off the roof of my car and being ran over by cars. I have attached a couple of pix for you to select from. Thanks.

www[dot]myfixguide[dot]com/manual/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Asus-ZenFone-2-Teardown-23[dot]jpg
the green area is encharge of 4g, if you were an EE or CE, you might know what you are doing

touji said:
dear alex i have the same problem as yours and i know the fix, i manage to peel off the surface of the motherboard; using a thin razor blade, where the center pad is missing, the rest of it on the sides is ground, i manage to trace the track to a resistor inside of the shielding can, and i make jumper to the antenna cable and voila the signal is showing again and all working fine, if you can provide the photo of the board (remove the shielding) i can draw you the line to make the cable jumper...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Touji, Thanks for the information.
I have the exact same problem (I even managed to damage connectors on both ends...).
Could you please describe more precisely what has to be done to solder the wire at the right places ?
Thanks,
Gaston

huotg01 said:
Touji, Thanks for the information.
I have the exact same problem (I even managed to damage connectors on both ends...).
Could you please describe more precisely what has to be done to solder the wire at the right places ?
Thanks,
Gaston
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello, i have the same problem, how did you solved it?
Here there are the images of the connector and the motherboard.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
And here there are the links of bigger size of the images:
mobo1: s10.postimg.org/3v1v017yh/image.jpg
mobo2: s29.postimg.org/oukochbk7/image.jpg
Thank you so much.

cindybabe said:
I have a similar problem too and will appreciate if you could guide me on how to rather solder it inside the shielding can. I soldered it back to the original place but it is not firm and does not seem to have a solid base. I am yet to replace the screen which is damaged as a result of the phone falling off the roof of my car and being ran over by cars. I have attached a couple of pix for you to select from. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello, how did you solved it?

i know that the center pad is already ripped off and nothing is left but if you see carefully under a magnifying glass, there is a small yellow dot that is the line under the center pad, use multitester to trace it to some resistor in area i have marked in red, so sorry i'm no longer in posession of this board because i have return it to my customer, and i did not make note of which resistor to jumper...
just try it yourself and post your results here, as for the antenna i cut of the connector and made a plain jumper to the ground and the other one to a resistor....
sorry for my late reply ...

touji said:
i know that the center pad is already ripped off and nothing is left but if you see carefully under a magnifying glass, there is a small yellow dot that is the line under the center pad, use multitester to trace it to some resistor in area i have marked in red, so sorry i'm no longer in posession of this board because i have return it to my customer, and i did not make note of which resistor to jumper...
just try it yourself and post your results here, as for the antenna i cut of the connector and made a plain jumper to the ground and the other one to a resistor....
sorry for my late reply ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did not understand very well , say the yellow dot that indicated by the red arrow ? the connector was previously welded where there is a red circle .
I have to cut the metal connector and leave only the black wire antenna ? Thank you so much for the reply don't worry for the late response

i only mark an area not a specific point because i don't remember the line from center pad is connected to,
antenna connector welded to board if peeled off, the surrounding is connected to ground, the missing center pad you have to see using 10x magnifying glass and you can see there is a small dot still exist, you try using multitester then to find where is that dot ends, in the area i have marked, after you find it, cut off the antenna cable at the connector, and solder the outer cable to ground and the center to the part where you have found using mulltitester..

Alagi said:
I did not understand very well , say the yellow dot that indicated by the red arrow ? the connector was previously welded where there is a red circle .
I have to cut the metal connector and leave only the black wire antenna ? Thank you so much for the reply don't worry for the late response
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Alagi,
In your photo of mother board, you use Red Arrow point a solder pad. Is the point to connected to Antenna center pad. Appreciated your reply.
Also appreciate expert can post a photo here to show found point for Antenna center point.
Thanks

connector's digitizer has broken,
can you help me the solution, please ??? i have a zenfone 2 with broken connector's cable display, where i must jumper the cable display if the connector's has broken on motherboard ??? thanks a lot.

I have same issue with antenna pad on mainboard ripped off.
And I found the soldering point is actually not as the previous pic posted above.
The actual center pad connected with the antenna goes to a cap as I pointed with yellow arrow, the circuit follows by my blue lines on the pic.
Been Tested. Give a try on yours, guys.

You guys are awesome!
Made an account just to say that you are all amazing. With the info on the thread I was able to fix my phone and saved a lot of money! Its a lot easier than I thought it would be, and I'm not the greatest solderer.
Take your time scraping the traces away, and put a dab of glue on the joints to firm them up. Don't rush and take your time people!
I had a picture to post as well but xda doesn't let accounts with less than ten posts can not have outstide links sry

unbentcrayfish said:
Made an account just to say that you are all amazing. With the info on the thread I was able to fix my phone and saved a lot of money! Its a lot easier than I thought it would be, and I'm not the greatest solderer.
Take your time scraping the traces away, and put a dab of glue on the joints to firm them up. Don't rush and take your time people!
I had a picture to post as well but xda doesn't let accounts with less than ten posts can not have outstide links sry
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi crayfish, is there any way you could send me on that photo, or if you've made 10 posts now post it for everyone? I did the same thing and after two or three failed attempts I finally fixed my screen just to find out the antenna was definitely not working so I'm tempted to just cut my losses but if you managed it I might give it a go. Thanks!

Third time's the charm
chorgan said:
Hi crayfish, is there any way you could send me on that photo, or if you've made 10 posts now post it for everyone? I did the same thing and after two or three failed attempts I finally fixed my screen just to find out the antenna was definitely not working so I'm tempted to just cut my losses but if you managed it I might give it a go. Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
After typing out a mutliparagraph response and loosing it, I had to switch to my computer. I'll try to condense what I had previously typed out, I don't feel like doing all that again.
BUT after several weeks of my antenna fix I can tell you it is not perfect, least my fix isn't. Granted half reception (none inside buildings or in certain places) is better than none. But it doesn't seem to be a perfect fix. I have issues uploading anything like texts, images, etc. Downloading is unaffected. My phone is my only source of internet so I really notice this. My speed test results are looking like this: (mb/s) Down: high=29.59 Low=4.4 Up: high=2.48 low=0.13 Ping doesn't seem effected. My upload speeds used to be higher than my download... Before I even did the trace scraping fix, I emailed Asus about purchasing a Zenfone 2 motherboard from them (none on ebay/online) and they won't sell them to regular people. Super bummer, but its okay I ended up buying a new Zenfone2 (the zoom and lazer aren't worth it) it should be here today.
Got a little off topic there, but we're good. As for the fix itself?
I used a thumb tack for the scraping action, take your time and don't dig deeper than the trace! (pic below for the CORRECT trace) As for the antenna wire, Cut the end that has the broken off port still stuck in it and strip that sucker. Split the outer metal wires into two stands. Use your teeth or a lighter to expose the signal wire. Tin your fresh wires (less is more, its small pads and wires!) and turn your attention to the ground pads. They are the large pads left where the plug was sitting. At this point your trace should be visible, your antenna should be tinned, and your fingers crossed! I had forgotten to tin the trace and pads but It worked out because I tinned the wires with a tad too much solder so it was okay. But don't be like me, tin your pads and trace.
Start with the ground wires first being sure to check the length of your wires before hand, and get them on there! Once they are secured move on to the signal wire. I found this to be hard, it is by far the smallest thing I have ever worked on. Have good lighting, steady clam hands, and a magnifying glass! You don't want to break anything else here, even if you don't fix the antenna your Zenfone is a great media device! When you finally have that signal wire on, take a smoke break you need it! Next, turn on that phone and test the connection. If everything is peachy put a dab of glue on your fresh solder joints for protection. When putting the phone back together be careful not to pitch or snag any wires. Also, I cut the corner off the copper heat sink so that I would sit flush with the new fix.
Sooo ya. That's about it folks!
Good luck chorgan and may the force be with you.
I'll see any replies to this comment, so ask away if anyone has questions. I'm no expert, but I'm glad to help!
Almost forgot: https:// imgur.com/a/xC9Rc (I had to put spacing in to submit the comment, still under ten)

chorgan said:
Hi crayfish, is there any way you could send me on that photo, or if you've made 10 posts now post it for everyone? I did the same thing and after two or three failed attempts I finally fixed my screen just to find out the antenna was definitely not working so I'm tempted to just cut my losses but if you managed it I might give it a go. Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Update: I just had a look inside and was planning to solder it tomorrow so I taped everything down and while I was at it, made sure the connector was realigned with its old home on the motherboard. When I turned the phone back on, my 4G worked. So it's possible (though I wouldn't stretch to saying it's a good long term solution) to just tape the socket back on as long as you apply enough pressure that it won't move around in normal use. I'll keep you updated on how long this lasts because it could be a much easier fix for us that aren't too handy with a soldering iron
---------- Post added at 08:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:45 PM ----------
unbentcrayfish said:
After typing out a mutliparagraph response and loosing it, I had to switch to my computer. I'll try to condense what I had previously typed out, I don't feel like doing all that again.
BUT after several weeks of my antenna fix I can tell you it is not perfect, least my fix isn't. Granted half reception (none inside buildings or in certain places) is better than none. But it doesn't seem to be a perfect fix. I have issues uploading anything like texts, images, etc. Downloading is unaffected. My phone is my only source of internet so I really notice this. My speed test results are looking like this: (mb/s) Down: high=29.59 Low=4.4 Up: high=2.48 low=0.13 Ping doesn't seem effected. My upload speeds used to be higher than my download... Before I even did the trace scraping fix, I emailed Asus about purchasing a Zenfone 2 motherboard from them (none on ebay/online) and they won't sell them to regular people. Super bummer, but its okay I ended up buying a new Zenfone2 (the zoom and lazer aren't worth it) it should be here today.
Got a little off topic there, but we're good. As for the fix itself?
I used a thumb tack for the scraping action, take your time and don't dig deeper than the trace! (pic below for the CORRECT trace) As for the antenna wire, Cut the end that has the broken off port still stuck in it and strip that sucker. Split the outer metal wires into two stands. Use your teeth or a lighter to expose the signal wire. Tin your fresh wires (less is more, its small pads and wires!) and turn your attention to the ground pads. They are the large pads left where the plug was sitting. At this point your trace should be visible, your antenna should be tinned, and your fingers crossed! I had forgotten to tin the trace and pads but It worked out because I tinned the wires with a tad too much solder so it was okay. But don't be like me, tin your pads and trace.
Start with the ground wires first being sure to check the length of your wires before hand, and get them on there! Once they are secured move on to the signal wire. I found this to be hard, it is by far the smallest thing I have ever worked on. Have good lighting, steady clam hands, and a magnifying glass! You don't want to break anything else here, even if you don't fix the antenna your Zenfone is a great media device! When you finally have that signal wire on, take a smoke break you need it! Next, turn on that phone and test the connection. If everything is peachy put a dab of glue on your fresh solder joints for protection. When putting the phone back together be careful not to pitch or snag any wires. Also, I cut the corner off the copper heat sink so that I would sit flush with the new fix.
Sooo ya. That's about it folks!
Good luck chorgan and may the force be with you.
I'll see any replies to this comment, so ask away if anyone has questions. I'm no expert, but I'm glad to help!
Almost forgot: https:// imgur.com/a/xC9Rc (I had to put spacing in to submit the comment, still under ten)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just saw this after my post about the the tape method. Thanks very much for the reply, pity I (hopefully) won't end up using it.
I had actually misunderstood the connector, I had been thinking that the two pads for ground were the onl y two contacts, and so one must be ground and one the signal wire at the core. That would have made for some heartbreak when I turned on my "fixed" phone. Hopefully mine stays cooperative, if not it's time to bust out the iron... or just buy a portable hotspot and a blokia. Anyway, I hope your luck is better with the new ZenFone.
Ps, I think my 4G may be a bit slower? I've had one drop off off where I lost signal completely but I have a feeling it's intermittently dying but not for long enough for the phone to register the loss. I'll try a speed test soon