Develop Bugs

Electrical question - charging - power

Hello everybody,
Since the best phone ever died (or better: drown) on me (HTC Universal OFCOURSE!). I had to look for a replacement and TP2 seemed like the best of bad things. LOL!
I noticed that the wall charger had a 5V -1A(mpere) output. My (standard) car charger has a 5V - 0,5 A output. So I got the notice "your current power supply... not enough ...close some ...."
Besides the fact that e.g. tomtom uses more than the charger can give, i was wondering :
is it BAD for my battery charging at 0,5A instead of 1A ?
how much A does a laptop give when charging my TP2 trough USB port?
HAs this got sth to do with the fact that in some programs there is an option like "do not charge while connected to PC?"
I know this is more of an offtopic question, but I hope there is somebody with enough electrical knowledge to help me out! I posted it also in the general section, but since it is an TP2 issue maybe it is better placed here.
Sorry for possible inconvenience!
THX!
Kjoere

Each USB port churns out 5V at 500mA max (i.e., 0.5A).

Thank you mesquire,
Do you have any idea what the effect is of charging with different AMpere?
E.g. my BT-earphone has 180mA - so better not charge this through laptop I suppose (too much is never a good thing) - but the otherway charging with less A, that I haven' got a clue ...
C.

You can face problems that it starts to charge, but stops after x minutes.
I have replaced my carcharger with the original HTC CC C100 which delivers 1Amp.
Never had any charging problems with that one.

Hi ronh,
replacing is ofcourse an option, but I was mainly wondering what the possible effects could be on the battery. On a Dutch site I found that Lithium-Ion batteries have no memory effect so all ampères below should be "theoretically" be ok.
Greetz,
C.

Curehead said:
Thank you mesquire,
Do you have any idea what the effect is of charging with different AMpere?
E.g. my BT-earphone has 180mA - so better not charge this through laptop I suppose (too much is never a good thing) - but the otherway charging with less A, that I haven' got a clue ...
C.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can expect longer charge times through USB port than with the supplied charger.
A USB flash drive draws only about 100mA from the port, so the port should provide just enough power to charge your Bluetooth handsfree (but do make sure the device needs 5V to operate or you could fry it).

Hi mesquire,
thanx again, but I am still in the dark. You seem to make a difference between a USB port (500mA) and a USB flash drive (100mA), but i don't understand this (maybe my english isn't good enough ).
Do i understand you correctly is i say that the device connected also has sth to say in how much power comes out?
I thought the ampere is sth like a 'flow of current' and when more comes out than wanted by the receiver, it euh likes ... flood (too much current) the device (and does damage). Does this make any sense?
Ciao,
Kjoere

Your device will only pull the amount of amps required,
as long as the input voltage is the same you should be fine.
you will be OK to charge the phone at 500ma however this will take longer to charge,
I charge mine using my laptop regularly - that matches your car charger at 500ma,
you may find however, when using gps etc, that you are draining more power than being supplied by the charger and the battery will begin to discharge.
hope this makes sense,
Steve

Curehead said:
Hi ronh,
replacing is ofcourse an option, but I was mainly wondering what the possible effects could be on the battery. On a Dutch site I found that Lithium-Ion batteries have no memory effect so all ampères below should be "theoretically" be ok.
Greetz,
C.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
they do have a memory, but the software/charger will not let you damage the battery.
anyway, assuming the battery can be charged at 1C (up to 2C is possible with some batteries, but can adversely affect battery life) you can theoretically charge the battery at a maximum of 1.5 amps safely. (assuming 1,500Mah battery)

TP2 doesn't have li-ion, it's a LiPo which doesn't have memory. They do have a limit on how many times they recharge as well as a shelf life, figure on buying a replacement every 1-2 years I'd guess.

fraser said:
TP2 doesn't have li-ion, it's a LiPo which doesn't have memory. They do have a limit on how many times they recharge as well as a shelf life, figure on buying a replacement every 1-2 years I'd guess.
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Click to collapse
are you sure ?? i went to the power settings and it says main battery: Li-ion
which i presume stands for lithium ion ?

Lithium Ion doesn't have memory.
Nickel Cadmium and Nickel MetalHydride have meory: i.e. if you charge it when it's at 70%, the next time it gets down to 70% it will think it's empty as it "remembers" that as the charging point.
With Lithium Ion you can charge them at any moment, ergo no charge. Adn they too have a life of about 500 charges.

fraser said:
TP2 doesn't have li-ion, it's a LiPo which doesn't have memory. They do have a limit on how many times they recharge as well as a shelf life, figure on buying a replacement every 1-2 years I'd guess.
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Click to collapse
The battery in my TP2 says LI-ION on the back, so perhaps some are LI-Po and some LI-ion? may go some way to explaining why some people are happy with their battery life and some not so.
Tom

Shouldn't really matter truth be told. As long as they have a rating of 1500mah they should last the same amount.

frogfoot said:
The battery in my TP2 says LI-ION on the back
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Click to collapse
Are you sure it doesn't say "Li-ion Polymer"? There is a distinction, particularly in cost!

fraser said:
Are you sure it doesn't say "Li-ion Polymer"? There is a distinction, particularly in cost!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
my australian TP2 says Li-ion in big letters, and Li-ion Polymer in the fine print

The difference is in cost, and weight, but the end result in a cell phone or pda is more or less the same due to the low power demands.

My TP2 battery says Li-ion on the actual label itself.

thanx
rosebud said:
Your device will only pull the amount of amps required,
as long as the input voltage is the same you should be fine.
you will be OK to charge the phone at 500ma however this will take longer to charge,
I charge mine using my laptop regularly - that matches your car charger at 500ma,
you may find however, when using gps etc, that you are draining more power than being supplied by the charger and the battery will begin to discharge.
hope this makes sense,
Steve
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Click to collapse
Hi Steve,
Thx man! So now i Know i only have to worry about voltage. So I can charge my earphone in my car (which only wants 180mA) and my phone (1A). You are right that it sometimes (navigation, BT) uses more power than it gets (500mA), I get some message saying that by the way.
Any way thanx a lot !
Cureheaded

Kernel to remove 650 ma limitation of battery charging?

Reference Thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=833602
Apparently, according to the above research, although the EVO charging cable is rated at 1 amp, the phone is only charging at 650 ma. This adds an extra 45 minutes or so to full charge times.
This would make sense in the same way that 3 ghz cpu's can easily be pushed to 4 ghz by those who know what they are doing. The 650 ma is just to "idiot" proof the battery and to provide some wiggle room for "defective" batteries to still function safely.
HERE'S MY QUESTION:
Is this a hardware based limitation or software based? Could someone write a kernel or app that would disable this limitation allowing us to charge at full speed? I am NOT a programmer so have no idea if this is feasible but would appreciate input from those who would know.
Thanks in advance.

mitchellvii said:
Reference Thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=833602
Apparently, according to the above research, although the EVO charging cable is rated at 1 amp, the phone is only charging at 650 ma. This adds an extra 45 minutes or so to full charge times.
This would make sense in the same way that 3 ghz cpu's can easily be pushed to 4 ghz by those who know what they are doing. The 650 ma is just to "idiot" proof the battery and to provide some wiggle room for "defective" batteries to still function safely.
HERE'S MY QUESTION:
Is this a hardware based limitation or software based? Could someone write a kernel or app that would disable this limitation allowing us to charge at full speed? I am NOT a programmer so have no idea if this is feasible but would appreciate input from those who would know.
Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well from my bit of micro-electronics experience, it is usually hardware done for this sort of thing, but until someone really checks all possible routes it is hard to tell.

SUPER EDIT:
All hail pete...

spankmaster said:
I noticed the R/C guy posting later in the thread saying there is no reason not to charge them faster. There is no reason to trust me over him but i can assure you he is wrong. There are at least 2 threads already here about people wanting 1 amp chargers, getting them, and then complaining about how battery their battery life becomes. So take whatever advice you'd like, but id recommend saving the life of your battery over 45 minutes.
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Let's see if I understand this correctly: You've read in a couple of threads that other people have claimed that they've suffered a loss of capacity because they've charged their Evo batteries with a 1A (1000mA) charger, am I right so far? And because you read this you know enough to tell someone who has years of hands-on experience with LiPo batteries and chargers that he's wrong. Did I get that right?
Whatever, dude. I certainly don't need to argue with you, but I'm compelled to point out a couple of things for other people's sake like the simple fact that the HTC wall wart that comes in the box with a new Evo has a 1A output.
And then there's the fact that a 1C charge rate is the de facto standard in the battery industry for LiPo batteries. Rather than make you do the math, a 1C charge rate for a 1500mAh battery is 1.5A and a 1C charge rate for a 3500mAh battery is 3.5A so charging either of 'em with a 1A rate is well below the most recognized charge rate in the industry.
But I must be wrong if you say so. And if I'm wrong then all the scientists and engineers who design LiPo batteries and chargers must be wrong too.
So I'm in some pretty good company, don't you think?
Pete

well, looks like my ass has been handed to me by science lol Sorry if i sounded insulting, you obviously know more than I. Just trying to give my best 2 cents from what ive heard, and i honestly have heard from a relatively large crowd that 1 amp charging does seem to hurt they're batteries. I thought maybe 1 amp or faster would be fine for the larger cells, maybe 2500 or 3500 or up, but maybe just the smaller cells like in most cell phones couldnt handle that fast a charge as well. No reason to argue with the science of it all though. Also, i do know that the wall charger that comes with the phone is 1 amp output, but many chargers say that but dont always output it depending on the device hooked up (the device not pulling that much, obviously not saying it knows whats plugged in). Does the evo actually charge a full 1 amp from it?

Although I appreciate everyone's input I think you are missing the point of my question. It is not "should we charge at 1 amp?", but "why are our 1 amp chargers only charging at 650 ma?".
If EVO's are rated to charge at 1 amp and the charger is 1 amp, why is it charging at much less. This sounds more like a software thing than a hardware thing. Why would EVO publish that its rated to charge at 1 amp when it cannot physically do so?

mitchellvii said:
Although I appreciate everyone's input I think you are missing the point of my question. It is not "should we charge at 1 amp?", but "why are our 1 amp chargers only charging at 650 ma?".
If EVO's are rated to charge at 1 amp and the charger is 1 amp, why is it charging at much less. This sounds more like a software thing than a hardware thing. Why would EVO publish that its rated to charge at 1 amp when it cannot physically do so?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well one semi logical explanation is they limited it to keep the heat levels down to keep components such as the processor from overheating while charging, or they just wanted to do it to piss some people off.

mitchellvii said:
Although I appreciate everyone's input I think you are missing the point of my question. It is not "should we charge at 1 amp?", but "why are our 1 amp chargers only charging at 650 ma?".
If EVO's are rated to charge at 1 amp and the charger is 1 amp, why is it charging at much less. This sounds more like a software thing than a hardware thing. Why would EVO publish that its rated to charge at 1 amp when it cannot physically do so?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I want to be real clear about something before I throw any more info into the mix: My info is based on a mixture of my experience with LiPo batteries and charging circuits, my own observations during the time I've owned my Evo, and anecdotal evidence I've collected in this and other forums about the Evo. In other words, my info is based on educated guesses rather than hard facts and with that in mind ....
The Evo does seem to regulate the charging current (rate) to the battery to around 650mA. If you use a power supply that is incapable of supplying 650mA (like a USB port on a computer) then the charging rate will be less, but I haven't read any reliable evidence that suggests that a more powerful power supply will increase the charge rate. My own experiments seem to support that conclusion: I've charged my own Evo with my computer, the HTC 1A charger, a USB hub which can supply 2A, and a mobile charger rated at 850mA. The 850mA, 1A, and 2A supplies all take the same amount of time to recharge my Evo and the computer takes a little longer.
I've also read plenty of reports which suggest that the Evo also uses a mAh cap to limit the amount of charge it will accept before it terminates the charge cycle. It's important to understand the difference between charge amount and charge rate for this to make sense: A parallel example is gallons and gallons-per-hour: Gallons is an amount and gallons-per-hour is a rate. In the Evo's case, mAh (milliamp-hours) is the amount and mA (milliamps) is the rate.
Under normal conditions a LiPo charge cycle is terminated when the battery voltage reaches 4.2V per cell, but due to the volatile consequences of overcharging LiPos engineers usually build additional redundant safeguards into consumer electronics to protect consumers from themselves and a charge rate limit and a charge amount limit are often used together to that end.
So I'm not at all surprised to see evidence that both are used in the Evo, although I do think they erred a little too far on the side of caution.
Now if I had to guess (and I do), I'd say the ~650mA charge rate is hard-wired into the charging circuit and I'll be surprised if that can be changed with anything short of a hardware revision. The charge amount limit is another story, though. That is probably coded into the software.
And on that note, I'm done guessing.
Pete

Confuscius say ...
"It is better to guess and be found right, than to pontificate and be found wrong..."
EVO specs show that it should charge at 1 amp. The charger they give you with a new phone is a 1 amp charger and yet, in numerous threads we learn that people are only getting about a 650 ma charging rate.
THE CONSPIRACY THEORY (don't get excited, just tossing out ideas here - just because you are paranoid doesn't mean everyone really isn't out to get you )
There is something going on here that doesn't add up. Could it be that HTC could not get enough high quality batteries in time to ship and yet, all the specs had already been published? So they shipped some units with "non-binned" batteries and set the charge rate at 650ma to make sure they didn't blow up (lowest common denominator)? They also shipped the 1 amp chargers because they had already manufactured those with the idea the average Joe would never know the difference?
Think about it. It makes sense. Why else tell us it will charge at 1 amp with a 1 amp charger then limit it to 650 ma?
Could this be the reason why so many people with "identical" phones get such wildly different battery results? If this is true, HTC would be looking at one hell of a class action lawsuit.

Just noticed this:
mitchellvii said:
Why would EVO publish that its rated to charge at 1 amp when it cannot physically do so?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't believe that HTC or Sprint has published anything about charge rates. The only thing (that I've seen) that even remotely suggests a rate is the fact that the wall charger they include with the Evo has a 1A output.
There are lots of reasons why a device like a LiPo-powered cell phone needs to internally regulate the charging rate and human folly is right at the top of the list. Imagine how many people would charge their phones at higher and higher rates without ever even considering the consequences of doing so if all they had to do was buy more powerful wall warts. Imagine how many people have already tried!
And I should add that the consequences of charging LiPo cells at excessive rates includes big balls of fire. Go to YouTube and do a search for "lipo fire" if you'd like to see for yourself.
The other major consideration is the amount of electrical current that the circuitry and components in the phone can handle. Push too much current through 'em and they become heaters. Push a little more and circuit board traces start popping like fuses if the components don't fail first.
I imagine you're asking yourself why HTC would supply a 1A charger if the phone will only charge at 650mA (note: you folks are so predictable ) and the answer to that is pretty simple too: The phone can use that extra power (overhead) to power the phone while it's charging the battery. Without that overhead you'd never be able to charge the battery at the regulated rate without turning the phone off.
And that isn't guessing.
Pete

But Pete,
To my understanding, the EVO runs off the battery even when it is being charged. Any overhead from a 1 am charger would not power the phone but just not be used at all. The reason the phone charges during heavy use with a more powerful charger is simply that it is charging faster than the battery is draining.
No power goes directly from the charger to the phone. Try plugging your charger in with no battery and see if it works

mitchellvii said:
But Pete,
To my understanding, the EVO runs off the battery even when it is being charged. Any overhead from a 1 am charger would not power the phone but just not be used at all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I saw a lot of evidence of that in Evo forums before I got my phone and I initially hypothesized that it was why some people were experiencing the rapid ~10% battery drop off if they didn't take the phone off the charger as soon as the light changed from amber to green. And that may, in fact, be true for some Evos but I've seen no evidence whatsoever that my phone works that way. I put my phone in the charging cradle at night with no regard to the charge level and I grab it at whatever random time I happen to need it the next day, and my battery is always fully-charged and I've never experienced the quick drop-off.
My phone also seems to take the same amount of time to top off the battery from a known charge level regardless of whether I leave 4G, WiFi, Bluetooth, and GPS on or turn them all off as long as I use the 1A wall wart.
Those two things have given me reason to question my own hypotheses. In fact, they seem to provide ample evidence to prove it wrong.
No power goes directly from the charger to the phone. Try plugging your charger in with no battery and see if it works
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've actually thought about trying that, but my job requires that I'm "reachable" at all times and I can't afford to experiment with my phone in ways which might brick it, regardless of how remote the chance is.
And the fact that the phone won't work via external power without a battery in it isn't hard evidence that the external power can only charge the battery. There are many reasons why it might not work including the possibility that the entire power management circuit in the phone requires some exciter voltage from the battery to work. That's actually a pretty common safeguard.
But the truth of the matter is I'm back to guessin' again.
Pete

spankmaster said:
The 1amp charging thing has been discussed many many times. its not a kernel limitation, but sort of a hardware thing. The evo has to be able to tell whether its being charged by a wall charger or a usb charger hooked up to a computer because usb ports CANNOT output a full amp. So on wall chargers and car chargers , even the ones with usb ports, there is a data lines are hooked together sending a signal to the phone that its charging from a more powerful source.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think i might have actually answered your question there lol. Ever heard how weird ipod/iphone chargers are? its cause they have resistors on the data lines to signal the phone to charge, and chargers without them will not charge it. Similarly from what ive gathered, if you open up the charger you want to use, say a wall or car charger, you can bridge the two data lines together, and that will signal the Evo to charge at a full amp. you can use Spare Parts to see that it says charging via A/C to validate this. this has been the solution decided on so far and its very easy. hope i helped!

spankmaster said:
this has been the solution decided on so far and its very easy. hope i helped!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where are you getting this information, spankmaster? Who has decided on this solution? I'd genuinely like to know because I'd like to follow the threads myself.
Have you tried this yourself with an Evo or are you hoping one of us will and let you know how it goes?
And FWIW, I'm not trying to be a smart ass. I really am interested in this but I must say that I'm a bit skeptical.
Pete

PGRtoo said:
Where are you getting this information, spankmaster? Who has decided on this solution? I'd genuinely like to know because I'd like to follow the threads myself.
Have you tried this yourself with an Evo or are you hoping one of us will and let you know how it goes?
And FWIW, I'm not trying to be a smart ass. I really am interested in this but I must say that I'm a bit skeptical.
Pete
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
heres the thread my friend!
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=767961&highlight=car+charger
The OP has some good info as well. And i did this myself about an hour ago to test and it indeed works.

spankmaster said:
heres the thread my friend!
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=767961
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's a good find, spankmaster, but evidence still points to a a charging rate which is internally limited to around 650mA even when the phone detects an AC charger. Here's why I say that:
The majority of my own testing has been done on a Seidio Desktop Charging Cradle powered by a Seidio Micro-USB High Output Folding Travel Charger which I just now discovered has a 1.25A instead of a 1A output. Spare Parts already indicates (without any modification) Battery status: Charging (AC), Power plug: AC when I put my phone in the dock.
Now if this "Charging (AC)" condition would allow my phone to charge at the full 1.25A of the charger then it should take ~1.2 hours to charge a depleated 1500mAh battery. At just 1A it would take ~1.5 hours however the two times I deliberately did that as a test it took almost 2.5 hours to charge in the above-mentioned dock.
1500mAh divided by 2.5 hours = a 600mA average charging current but the actual current tapers off as the battery nears 4.2V so the maximum charging current over that 2 hour period was probably somewhere in the 640-660mA range.
The bottom line, at least as I see it, is that shorting the D+ and D- pins may cause USB chargers to charge at AC charger rates, but it doesn't seem to help AC chargers exceed the ~650mA maximum which is apparently hard-wired into the Evo.
The math says it.
I believe it.
That settles it.
'Course I'm still open to new ideas and I still have a glimmer of hope that there's a solution banging around in someone's head just waiting for the right "AHA!" moment.
Pete

ah ha, thats wierd. I think ill conduct a similar test of my own with the charger modified as they specified and see what my results hold. in the same thread there are people, or at least one or two guys, claiming to get a 45 minute charge, so their still might be something to it, or people are just being ridiculous lol. ill post back with my results!

spankmaster said:
in the same thread there are people, or at least one or two guys, claiming to get a 45 minute charge, so their still might be something to it, or people are just being ridiculous lol.
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Click to collapse
To charge 1500mAh in 45 minutes would take a bare minimum of a 2A charge current. That's dangerously over a 1C charge rate and if they actually can charge at that rate they stand a good chance of making a smoking hole in something. And If they are doing that and getting away with it they're definitely reducing the number of charge-discharge cycles they'll get from their batteries by a huge amount.
Realistically, I don't think it's possible to force an Evo to charge at rates like that so they're either spreading fertilizer or the batteries were more than half-charged when they started.
Pete

ya, i thought the same thing about 45 minutes. i brought my battery (stock) down to 15% and plugged it into my modified charger and am gonna stay up to see how it does. Its a 99.9% chance its gonna charge exactly like you said. But i was just thinking about the thing about the ipod charging as well, cause the ipod will only charge with the resistors in the lines, but different resistances will tell it to charge at different rates, so im just checking for the .1% chance that bridging the two data lines might signal the phone ever so slightly different then the pre made chargers your using. like I said, one and a million, buts its always worth exploring, if not even just to prove your brilliance
1 HOUR RESULTS: at a solid hour it looks like a got to 65% indicating a 50% charge. so the the moment im at a 750mah average charge rate. but as you stated before, as the battery comes closer to a full charge, it tapers so it looks like it'll probably average out. ill update again for the Hour and a half point.
1.5 HOUR RESULTS: solid 80% after 1.5 hours (again, starting with 15% charge so a total of 65% charge during testing time). Thats 975 mA in 1.5 hours which puts us right on the money at 650mAh charging rate! (SHOCK AND AWW! Lol)
Conclusion, bridging the data lines didnt do diddly SQUAT! i mean, i didnt test the rate before hand, but it certainly isnt giving anyone any 1 amp charging.
And brain blast, wouldnt it be just as effective a method to test charger output by cutting open the cable and hooking a multimeter in the circuit? Actually, imma try that right now!
Hokay, so hooking up the multimeter in line made things really screwy, evo stopped charging and the current on the meter was going way up and down. Either im even MORE retarded than i though and forgot how to use my multimeter or this charger is dangerous and i dont wanna use it anymore cause that shouldn't happen like that lol.
So, back to the OP's question.....
no clue mi amigo! good luck though!

spankmaster said:
Hokay, so hooking up the multimeter in line made things really screwy, evo stopped charging and the current on the meter was going way up and down. Either im even MORE retarded than i though and forgot how to use my multimeter or this charger is dangerous and i dont wanna use it anymore cause that shouldn't happen like that lol.
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Click to collapse
Did you place the meter in series (in-line) or in parallel (across) the +5/Gnd cables? For measuring current, it needs to be in series and you can fry circuits by placing it in parallel as it will present near-0 resistance, shorting all the voltage through the meter and straight back to the supply.

[Q] What charger to use. Make your battery last longer.

Hello,
As the battery can not be removed I am investigating the ways to make it live the long as I can. One is making your daily use long a lot, dissabling wifi, 3g or things you dont use.
The other way, the like I want to discuss here, is how to make proper charges. Actually, LG support two types:
- USB, at 500mA
- Wall charger (the one from LG), at 1200mA as it says.
I have investigated and read the less mA, the better for your battery, altought it takes longer to arrive to 100% charge.
So, the first question that comes to my mind is: when I like to use a wall charger, shouldn't it be better to use another wall charger with less mA? I own a Samsung charges that says 700mA so maybe it could be better to use it.
Do you think is a good idea?
What the best way to charge battery in order to give it a long live? Is it better to always charge it with pc-usb?
Thanks.
Fer

Use the original charger the phone came with.using other chargers,with different specs,may damage the battery on long terms.
Using a charger with lower intensity(700mAh) will charge the battery slower and for a while it will look like the battery will last longer,but in time it will affect the battery.
Using a higher intensity charger(1500 mAh for example),will charge the battery faster,but in time it will also affect the battery.
Best way is to make complete cycles of discharging/charging,avoid using the phone while is charging.
This is for the battery health.
To increase daily battery life,deactivate auto sync,set weather sync to min 1h,turn off fps/data/wi-fi when you don't need them.
The battery on the phone is guaranteed for about 850 cycles.so,even if you charge the phone every day,you have more than 2 years warranty for the battery to work on parameters.
Then,why worry that much?
Sent from LG E975 pwd by CM 10.1

kimitza said:
The battery on the phone is guaranteed for about 850 cycles.so,even if you charge the phone every day,you have more than 2 years warranty for the battery to work on parameters.
Then,why worry that much?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Because I want my device last more than two years. My last phones last near four years each one. it will be a pitty if I had to forget a good phone only because battery is age-worn.
Given that you propose only charginr with original charger (with make sense to me), what about USB-PC port charge? it is better to use one or the other? both methods are supported by LG and mentioned in the manual, and supposed one of them would be desirable.

Nope,it's better to avoid charges fom usb.in fact,if you have files to copy to/from pc,after you finish i recommend to plug it out.
And those 850 cycles i mentioned are not the end of the battery.it means the battery will keep it"s properties.in time,it's normal for any electric/electronic component to show signs of fatigue.anyway,2+ years for a battery it's great.technology is evolving.you didn't mention,your last phone you had for 4 years,with same battery?and it was in the same parameters?well,it's hard to believe.
Sent from LG E975 pwd by CM 10.1

kimitza said:
Nope,it's better to avoid charges fom usb.in fact,if you have files to copy to/from pc,after you finish i recommend to plug it out.
And those 850 cycles i mentioned are not the end of the battery.it means the battery will keep it"s properties.in time,it's normal for any electric/electronic component to show signs of fatigue.anyway,2+ years for a battery it's great.technology is evolving.you didn't mention,your last phone you had for 4 years,with same battery?and it was in the same parameters?well,it's hard to believe.
Sent from LG E975 pwd by CM 10.1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what is the "scientific" or "logical" reason to prefer the wall charger to usb-pc? I read it before it is better to charge into usb because 500mA are better for battery, less heat altought it takes longer to arrive to 100%.
My SGS last near 4 years, and I mainly I charged it from usb 50% and official charger 50%, and with Llama (and manually) I was very stricted in what features I turn on and off. In fact the battery and the phone is still in use for other person and the battery "looks" like the first use.

Well,it's not empirical,it's science.maybe i don't know how to put it in english that good,but i'll try.
As we all know,the electricity is measured within some parameters : tension(volts),in intensity(amps) and frequency(herz).
In your case,the wall charger provides 5 volts at the intensity of 1200 miliamps per hour.this is the standard value,made by lg for the g battery.if you provide less than half of that specified intensity(500mAh),the battery will charge alot slower,and it will "struggle" to align the electrons onto the battery layers.you shouldn't have a difference higher than 20%.for a period,it will look like the battery will last longer,but in the same time it will lose it's properties faster than the normal charging.
Today,batteries are not simple electric storages,but smart components themselves.if you mess up their function parameters,you will notice it in time.
Sent from LG E975 pwd by CM 10.1

kimitza said:
Well,it's not empirical,it's science.maybe i don't know how to put it in english that good,but i'll try.
As we all know,the electricity is measured within some parameters : tension(volts),in intensity(amps) and frequency(herz).
In your case,the wall charger provides 5 volts at the intensity of 1200 miliamps per hour.this is the standard value,made by lg for the g battery.if you provide less than half of that specified intensity(500mAh),the battery will charge alot slower,and it will "struggle" to align the electrons onto the battery layers.you shouldn't have a difference higher than 20%.for a period,it will look like the battery will last longer,but in the same time it will lose it's properties faster than the normal charging.
Today,batteries are not simple electric storages,but smart components themselves.if you mess up their function parameters,you will notice it in time.
Sent from LG E975 pwd by CM 10.1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Kimitza, thank you very much for your support. One more question?. What specifications do you recomend for a car charger? (having in mind I don't use the smarthphone in the car, excep for GPS-maps sometimes. Most time I only charged it)
I have seen in the shop there a vary range of car charges that goes from 750mA to 2100mA.
And other one: is it advisable to use the device while charging?

I have an energizer car charger,rated at 1000mAh.
So,anything between 850-1300mAh should be ok.
My advice is not to charge the phone while using it in car,especially as gps,unless you have to.why?let's see,using the gps will cause the phone to heat more than usual.another heating reason,i'm sure you have a car mount sticked to the front glass of the car,exposed to direct sun.add to these 2 reasons the heat created by the charging itself and you will have yourself a veeeery hot optimus g.oh,forgot about the case.if you have one,especially silicon case,you'll end up with a frying pan.
If you can eliminate some of those heating sources,it would be great.
I found a car mount fitting on an AC blow hole.it's handy in the summer time.for winter,i stick my normal mount on front glass.
On long trips i try to avoid using it as gps when i'm on the highway.i use only in cities.
I remove the silicon case to provide extra air.
And,if i use as gps,i don't charge it.i plan my trip in such way i charge the phone while i'm on highway(if needed of course).i never spent that much time in car wondering in major cities to empty my phone.
Only if i really must i charge the phone while using it.
Feel free to follow or not my guide.
But i think it makes sense.
Sent from LG E975 pwd by CM 10.1

I like your advices. I was also asking if you use the phone while in wall-charging??
thanks

Sometimes i do,but,like i said, i try to avoid it. Depending on the activity.
Sometimes i find myself searching for the plug when i'm caught in a game and i want to continue )..
But this phone gave the beste ratio gaming/battery i saw . One day i played 4.5 hrs of Real Racing 3,before charging the phone.So,it's great.
I was so into that game i didn't wanted to end,so yea, i played while charging.Just don't make a habbit out of it .
And sometimes you can't use the phone without charging it....for example,when i play a movie on my 32" tv. The mhl adapter will not work without the phone pluged.

V= 5V. Current does not matter, on "charger" is max current. It should be mentioned, that thing we are calling charger is actually an adapter. Charging unit will take needed current, so do not talk stupidity, all of you have no idea about basics of electro-technics

cickvoa said:
V= 5V. Current does not matter, on "charger" is max current. It should be mentioned, that thing we are calling charger is actually an adapter. Charging unit will take needed current, so do not talk stupidity, all of you have no idea about basics of electro-technics
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
but the question was not what current is needed, but what is the ideal current (charging velocity) in order to make battery life last longer. what is your opinion ?

cickvoa said:
V= 5V. Current does not matter, on "charger" is max current. It should be mentioned, that thing we are calling charger is actually an adapter. Charging unit will take needed current, so do not talk stupidity, all of you have no idea about basics of electro-technics
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well,another specialist.I never mentioned the Voltage,which is the same for almost all mobile devices.I was talking about intensity,this makes the difference. And since you mentioned it, it's not just an adapter,it's more,because this piese of electronic equipment CONVERTS one kind of electricity(alternative current),with some specs(110-220V), to another kind of electricity(dirrect current),with other specs(5V). All this, guess what,to provide enough DC to CHARGE the battery.the standard in mobile industry has been set to 5V on wall chargers and 3.7 V output batteries.
These are the most common and used. The difference is made by the capacity of the batteries and the capability of chargers to supply an amount of electric intensity in a period of time. Again, the standard has been set to mAh,which is milliamps per hour. So,to be exact, a charger rated 5v - 1200mAh will provide a 5V current,at 1200 milliamps per hour.
On the other hand,the battery specs say : 3.7 V, 2100 mAh. This means the battery can provide an output current of 3.7V, at the max intensity of 2100mAh. Didn't measured the G max consumption, but i can tell you for sure, the maximum intensity used by my previous Galaxy note was 800 mAh,on some heavy gaming. And this measurement was made in a lab,with proper tools.You can do an estimative measurement home quite easy,but not that accurate,just to have an idea. How?Well, charge the battery to full, then start an app, a game. play that game until the battery is empty,then make a simple math(battery capacity / time) .It's not the most accurate result,but....
You said the charging unit will take the needed current,right?Who said something else?I said there are differences in charging times,caused by the ELECTRIC INTENSITY.If you say it doesn't matter,because it's all 5V tension,then i guess i could extrapolate and say Amazon river and a mountain spring it's the same for you,because they both are flowing waters,right?It doesn't matter all other parameters,just the flow.
I could go more into details and i'm not a specialist.I just like to know how things are working,just to satisfy my curiosity. I have alot of electronic tools/gadgets, i have my own semi-proffesional soldering station,professional digital multimeter and more. I could say new generation batteries have their own processing unit,making them smart batteries(that's why you can't just exchange batteries from one phone to another,although they have same specs).I could also say Li-Ion and Li-Po batteries are charged by impulses and not real DC.But these are details,and no one here cares about them.They just want to know the basics on how to get a better battery life and how to proper use them.
And since we don't know the basics of electro-technics,could you share your vaste knowledge,but without copy-pasting it from wiki?

Addapter is voltage source. Charging unit is inside mobile phone and it takes amout of current what it needs, ofc has max current limit. When u have voltage source, only way to control current is by resistance that is connected on it. That is.ohms law, basic of electric. Engineers who designed and made charging unit knows their job. Period
Sent from my LG-P880 using Tapatalk 2

only voltage?care to do a small experiment?I could provide you a 5v adapter with 10 amps intensity. will you plug it into your phone?Just for the fun of learning?

Yes i would. Because adapter IS VOLTAGE SOURCE, so voltage is constant, and current depends on resistant attached to adapter.
If you would give me CURRENT SOURCE of 10A than I wouldnt connect it, because there is constant current and variable voltage. Pls do not go further, your post shows that this is not your area of knowledge.
Just as notice, Im master if science in EE, in which these types of adapters which is use for mobile phones is basic of industrial electronic, so......
Edit: your big post shows that you dont understand electrotechnic, when i come home on a computer ill give you detail review of your post and mistakes
Sent from my LG-P880 using Tapatalk 2

cickvoa said:
Yes i would. Because adapter IS VOLTAGE SOURCE, so voltage is constant, and current depends on resistant attached to adapter.
If you would give me CURRENT SOURCE of 10A than I wouldnt connect it, because there is constant current and variable voltage. Pls do not go further, your post shows that this is not your area of knowledge.
Just as notice, Im master if science in electric motor drives and automation, in which these types of adapters which is use for mobile phones is basic of industrial electronic, so......
Edit: your big post shows that you dont understand electrotechnic, when i come home on a computer ill give you detail review of your post and mistakes
Sent from my LG-P880 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please, also post your opinion about what is the best specifications for "wherever you call it the charger" for prolong battery life. The max A I suppost mark a limit for the phone, if current max is below the ideal charging value the that charger would be worse. Or any charger is OK?

I will im drinking now lol hehe, no prob, just spoke with friend, he has MD in electronics
Sent from my LG-P880 using Tapatalk 2

kimitza said:
Well,another specialist.I never mentioned the Voltage,which is the same for almost all mobile devices.I was talking about intensity,this makes the difference. And since you mentioned it, it's not just an adapter,it's more,because this piese of electronic equipment CONVERTS one kind of electricity(alternative current),with some specs(110-220V), to another kind of electricity(dirrect current),with other specs(5V).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First of all, why are you mentioning intensity?
Second, “direct current with 5 V specs“. Man, you got totally wrong there.
kimitza said:
All this, guess what,to provide enough DC to CHARGE the battery.the standard in mobile industry has been set to 5V on wall chargers and 3.7 V output batteries.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
„provide enough direct CURRENT … to set to 5 V“. you are doing it again sir, VOLTAGE is measured in VOLTS, CURRENT is measured in AMPERS !!!!!
Second, you must have larger potential form charger to battery, because current wouldn’t flow. Since max battery has 4,2V, it is set to 5V (don’t know why 5, but it is bigger than 4,2)
third, 3,7V is not standard, it is potential difference on Lithiom batteries, as it is 1,5V on CoZn batteries (usual called "Alkaline" or 1,2V on Ni-Mh or Ni-Cd batteries
kimitza said:
These are the most common and used. The difference is made by the capacity of the batteries and the capability of chargers to supply an amount of electric intensity in a period of time. Again, the standard has been set to mAh,which is milliamps per hour. So,to be exact, a charger rated 5v - 1200mAh will provide a 5V current,at 1200 milliamps per hour.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Standard with mAh is wrong, Wh (watthour) is more correct, but OK, lets go with mAh.
Second, since we are talking about mAh's, mAh is measuring unit for capacity. If you find me charger that can store 1200mAh of capacity good for you (it is called battery, to be precise)
kimitza said:
On the other hand,the battery specs say : 3.7 V, 2100 mAh.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Again, Li-ion cell at full charge is around 4,2 V and „empty“ is around 3,4 V.
kimitza said:
This means the battery can provide an output current of 3.7V, at the max intensity of 2100mAh.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Again, totally noob. Sir, V O L T S are for V O L T A G E, A M P E R S are for C U R R E N T, M I L I A M P E R H O U R S are for C A P A C I T Y !!!!!!! If you tell sentence like that to some specialist, he/she would start to LOL to you. If you tell that on some exam, believe me, you wouldn’t pass this year.
kimitza said:
Didn't measured the G max consumption, but i can tell you for sure, the maximum intensity used by my previous Galaxy note was 800 mAh,on some heavy gaming. And this measurement was made in a lab,with proper tools.You can do an estimative measurement home quite easy,but not that accurate,just to have an idea. How?Well, charge the battery to full, then start an app, a game. play that game until the battery is empty,then make a simple math(battery capacity / time) .It's not the most accurate result,but....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bad sentence… only thing you can measure from battery is voltage and currently current. Other, such as mAh, you can calculate. For ex. If you say that during 1 h of measuring average current was 800mA, than you can say, OK my battery gave me 800mAh. Period. If you want to be more precise, or say it in correct measuring units, that you go like this: “my battery gave me 800mA in 1 h. OK, I have 800mAh. BUT, my battery is rated to 3,7 V (average voltage), than you say OK, capacity of this battery is 800mAh*3,7V=2,96mAhV. Since electric power in DC systems is calculated as P=U*I (in watts), so W=V*A, you say that battery has 2,96Wh of capacity.”
Then you look at battery (my O4X) and look, it is written “2150 mAh/8,2Wh”. LG made this good
kimitza said:
You said the charging unit will take the needed current,right?Who said something else?I said there are differences in charging times,caused by the ELECTRIC INTENSITY.If you say it doesn't matter,because it's all 5V tension,then i guess i could extrapolate and say Amazon river and a mountain spring it's the same for you,because they both are flowing waters,right?It doesn't matter all other parameters,just the flow.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Again, volts and stuff, you do not have idea what are you talking about
kimitza said:
I could go more into details and i'm not a specialist.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I could tell that by reading first few words of your post mister
kimitza said:
I just like to know how things are working,just to satisfy my curiosity. I have alot of electronic tools/gadgets, i have my own semi-proffesional soldering station,professional digital multimeter and more. I could say new generation batteries have their own processing unit,making them smart batteries(that's why you can't just exchange batteries from one phone to another,although they have same specs).I could also say Li-Ion and Li-Po batteries are charged by impulses and not real DC.But these are details,and no one here cares about them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Correct Liions are charged in impulses. BUT adapter does not provide impulses on its output, it provides 5V (as it is voltage source) and current [0, RATED] A. (those [] means that 0 and rated are included, in case you do not know math too, and that is called interval)
For impules, there is charging unit inside phone.
kimitza said:
They just want to know the basics on how to get a better battery life and how to proper use them.
And since we don't know the basics of electro-technics,could you share your vaste knowledge,but without copy-pasting it from wiki?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wiki...well, you could read it a little, on en.wiki infos are correct, ive checked.
you have some bad attitude. but i understand, attack is the best defence. Enjoy your studying a little and do not embarrass yourself anymore. It is not problem if you do not know, okay, but if you are forcing me, and have no idea abaut basics (such as measuring units), cmon mister. do your homework.
Okay, this is review of your post. I am little hangovered, so if I sound a little uninterested or rough, forgive me
now, lets talk little about basics. Im not in the mood to write equasions and upload some schemes, so ill just put it on paper by hand and upload.
View attachment sl002.rar

cickvoa said:
First of all, why are you mentioning intensity?
Second, “direct current with 5 V specs“. Man, you got totally wrong there.
„provide enough direct CURRENT … to set to 5 V“. you are doing it again sir, VOLTAGE is measured in VOLTS, CURRENT is measured in AMPERS !!!!!
Second, you must have larger potential form charger to battery, because current wouldn’t flow. Since max battery has 4,2V, it is set to 5V (don’t know why 5, but it is bigger than 4,2)
third, 3,7V is not standard, it is potential difference on Lithiom batteries, as it is 1,5V on CoZn batteries (usual called "Alkaline" or 1,2V on Ni-Mh or Ni-Cd batteries
Standard with mAh is wrong, Wh (watthour) is more correct, but OK, lets go with mAh.
Second, since we are talking about mAh's, mAh is measuring unit for capacity. If you find me charger that can store 1200mAh of capacity good for you (it is called battery, to be precise)
Again, Li-ion cell at full charge is around 4,2 V and „empty“ is around 3,4 V.
Again, totally noob. Sir, V O L T S are for V O L T A G E, A M P E R S are for C U R R E N T, M I L I A M P E R H O U R S are for C A P A C I T Y !!!!!!! If you tell sentence like that to some specialist, he/she would start to LOL to you. If you tell that on some exam, believe me, you wouldn’t pass this year.
Bad sentence… only thing you can measure from battery is voltage and currently current. Other, such as mAh, you can calculate. For ex. If you say that during 1 h of measuring average current was 800mA, than you can say, OK my battery gave me 800mAh. Period. If you want to be more precise, or say it in correct measuring units, that you go like this: “my battery gave me 800mA in 1 h. OK, I have 800mAh. BUT, my battery is rated to 3,7 V (average voltage), than you say OK, capacity of this battery is 800mAh*3,7V=2,96mAhV. Since electric power in DC systems is calculated as P=U*I (in watts), so W=V*A, you say that battery has 2,96Wh of capacity.”
Then you look at battery (my O4X) and look, it is written “2150 mAh/8,2Wh”. LG made this good
Again, volts and stuff, you do not have idea what are you talking about
Yes, I could tell that by reading first few words of your post mister
Correct Liions are charged in impulses. BUT adapter does not provide impulses on its output, it provides 5V (as it is voltage source) and current [0, RATED] A. (those [] means that 0 and rated are included, in case you do not know math too, and that is called interval)
For impules, there is charging unit inside phone.
Wiki...well, you could read it a little, on en.wiki infos are correct, ive checked.
you have some bad attitude. but i understand, attack is the best defence. Enjoy your studying a little and do not embarrass yourself anymore. It is not problem if you do not know, okay, but if you are forcing me, and have no idea abaut basics (such as measuring units), cmon mister. do your homework.
Okay, this is review of your post. I am little hangovered, so if I sound a little uninterested or rough, forgive me
now, lets talk little about basics. Im not in the mood to write equasions and upload some schemes, so ill just put it on paper by hand and upload.
View attachment 2044470
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
cickvoa, thank you very much for your contribution, opinion and paper. Very valuable.

Power Bank recommendations

Hi guys,
I am looking for a power bank for my HTC 10 . . . I prefer a more compact pack, so far I liked :
https://www.amazon.co.uk/RAVPower-P...015CMTR0E/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
&
https://www.amazon.co.uk/RAVPower-1...00OJXVDAU/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Should I go for the bigger capacity or for the QC2 ?
Of course other recommendations are welcomed
Thanks

I own an Anker PowerCore+ 10050mAh which is compact and has a decent build quality. It is QC 2.0, dunno whether a QC 3.0 variant exists. On the other hand, QC3 is only superior by roughly 15% IIRC.

ademmer said:
I own an Anker PowerCore+ 10050mAh which is compact and has a decent build quality. It is QC 2.0, dunno whether a QC 3.0 variant exists. On the other hand, QC3 is only superior by roughly 15% IIRC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is a QC 3.0 version. (I've been considering purchasing it.) For now, the prices on Amazon are even the same:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CZV9FUW

deopk said:
Hi guys,
I am looking for a power bank for my HTC 10 . . . I prefer a more compact pack, so far I liked :
https://www.amazon.co.uk/RAVPower-P...015CMTR0E/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
&
https://www.amazon.co.uk/RAVPower-1...00OJXVDAU/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Should I go for the bigger capacity or for the QC2 ?
Of course other recommendations are welcomed
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are theoretical bull**** talk and allegations and there's real life usage.. ?
In real life less than true 20Ah is useless.. with 20Ah capacity you'll have up-to probably 3 full charges for modern smartphone like hTc 10..????
Sent from quite brutal hTc 10 ..

I've got the OnePlus powerbank, it's 10000mAh and charges very quickly with its 2A port.
Sent from my A0001

I have the RAVPower 16750mAh. Does the job and has 2 ports so the wife could charge her phone at the same time.
My first unit didn't work so it was returned to Amazon for a refund and RAV also shipped a new unit so got it for free

lordred12345 said:
... and charges very quickly with its 2A port.
Sent from my A0001
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bro, charging from 2A port feels like 19th century experience.. when we're in hTc 10's xda forum..
Sent from quite brutal hTc 10 ..

jauhien said:
There are theoretical bull**** talk and allegations and there's real life usage.. ��
In real life less than true 20Ah is useless.. with 20Ah capacity you'll have up-to probably 3 full charges for modern smartphone like hTc 10..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right, let's unpack what you said.
Any power bank has rated mah at a specific voltage, mostly around 3.7V.
So for a 10kmah battery we get 10k x 3.7 = 37 watt hours
But the phone will require 5V to charge at a minimum. That means 37/5 = 7.4k mah
Under ideal conditions that is the capacity remaining. There are efficiency losses on top which will reduce that figure.
If its a QC2 charger, then it will charge at 9V. Which works out to 4k mah. remember the efficiency losses again.
So QC2 10kmah battery pack will charge HTC 10 from 0-100 one time and have some left. Or two times 50-100%. If the temperature is not above 32 degrees C it will work well. Above that maybe not so fast.
If its non QC2, make that twice as many times. For something light this can work.
I am thinking that QC2/3 is fine if you are charging from mains, or car charger but comes with a cost if its from a battery pack. A pack that can be quick charged is better than one that cannot be and still better if it does not quick charge the phone.
If its 20Ah, non QC then 74Wh battery or 14.8 mah, after efficicency close to 14k mah.
4 full charges. 5V, upto 2.4A is good.
if its QC2, 2 full charges and change

One Twelve said:
Right, let's unpack what you said.
Any power bank has rated mah at a specific voltage, mostly around 3.7V.
So for a 10kmah battery we get 10k x 3.7 = 37 watt hours
But the phone will require 5V to charge at a minimum. That means 37/5 = 7.4k mah
Under ideal conditions that is the capacity remaining. There are efficiency losses on top which will reduce that figure.
If its a QC2 charger, then it will charge at 9V. Which works out to 4k mah. remember the efficiency losses again.
So QC2 10kmah battery pack will charge HTC 10 from 0-100 one time and have some left. Or two times 50-100%. If the temperature is not above 32 degrees C it will work well. Above that maybe not so fast.
If its non QC2, make that twice as many times. For something light this can work.
I am thinking that QC2/3 is fine if you are charging from mains, or car charger but comes with a cost if its from a battery pack. A pack that can be quick charged is better than one that cannot be and still better if it does not quick charge the phone.
If its 20Ah, non QC then 74Wh battery or 14.8 mah, after efficicency close to 14k mah.
4 full charges. 5V, upto 2.4A is good.
if its QC2, 2 full charges and change
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you! It's quite rare in these forums to read someone whose technical knowledge exceeds the Arithmetic..
Sent from quite brutal hTc 10 ..

One Twelve said:
Right, let's unpack what you said.....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have to disagree with some of the info. Power is power. No matter how you convert it and from how many cells it comes from, it is still power. The converters nowadays have an efficiency between 85 and 98%... so let's assume the average of 90%. So, for a power bank of (like you said) 10k mAh powered by a single li-ion element (average 3.7V) you get 37Wh power. Take 10% away and you remain with 33.3Wh.
The phone battery (HTC 10) is 3000mAh with a single cell design (3.7V). This means roughly 10Wh. So, you still have 3 full charges there.
The QC compatible chargers usually have multi-cell design so there is no need for a buck converter (voltage raiser). A 3 cells design (11.1 V) will be enough for QC 2.0 and a 4 cells design will meet QC 3.0 standard. And a normal. 18150 Li-ion cell (the most common type used nowadays in these chargers) can deliver 3000mAh w/o a problem (the good ones).
Again, power is power. You can convert it (with a certain efficiency) but the power is still there and gets transferred. The "lost" power is actually transformed into heat.
-= Sent from a parallel universe through a wormhole =-

ro_explorer said:
I have to disagree with some of the info. Power is power. No matter how you convert it and from how many cells it comes from, it is still power. The converters nowadays have an efficiency between 85 and 98%... so let's assume the average of 90%. So, for a power bank of (like you said) 10k mAh powered by a single li-ion element (average 3.7V) you get 37Wh power. Take 10% away and you remain with 33.3Wh.
The phone battery (HTC 10) is 3000mAh with a single cell design (3.7V). This means roughly 10Wh. So, you still have 3 full charges there.
The QC compatible chargers usually have multi-cell design so there is no need for a buck converter (voltage raiser). A 3 cells design (11.1 V) will be enough for QC 2.0 and a 4 cells design will meet QC 3.0 standard. And a normal. 18150 Li-ion cell (the most common type used nowadays in these chargers) can deliver 3000mAh w/o a problem (the good ones).
Again, power is power. You can convert it (with a certain efficiency) but the power is still there and gets transferred. The "lost" power is actually transformed into heat.
-= Sent from a parallel universe through a wormhole =-
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I say that 20Ah real life power bank purchased via real retailer and operated thru QC2 technology can charge hTc 10 which has 3 Ah built-in battery - up to 2.5 times in real life (and I know it from experience)..
He said - 2 times in real life (what is very close)
You disagreed and typed a bunch of stuff.. Can you just clearly state "how many times" real life power bank 20 Ah would charge in real life hTc 10 by QC tech..?
Sent from quite brutal hTc 10 ..

ademmer said:
I own an Anker PowerCore+ 10050mAh which is compact and has a decent build quality. It is QC 2.0, dunno whether a QC 3.0 variant exists. On the other hand, QC3 is only superior by roughly 15% IIRC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you tell us how many full charges or the equivalent you can get from the PC+ 10050 ?
It has only one port so you have no choice but to accept QC2.

ro_explorer said:
I have to disagree with some of the info. Power is power. No matter how you convert it and from how many cells it comes from, it is still power. The converters nowadays have an efficiency between 85 and 98%... so let's assume the average of 90%. So, for a power bank of (like you said) 10k mAh powered by a single li-ion element (average 3.7V) you get 37Wh power. Take 10% away and you remain with 33.3Wh.
The phone battery (HTC 10) is 3000mAh with a single cell design (3.7V). This means roughly 10Wh. So, you still have 3 full charges there.
The QC compatible chargers usually have multi-cell design so there is no need for a buck converter (voltage raiser). A 3 cells design (11.1 V) will be enough for QC 2.0 and a 4 cells design will meet QC 3.0 standard. And a normal. 18150 Li-ion cell (the most common type used nowadays in these chargers) can deliver 3000mAh w/o a problem (the good ones).
Again, power is power. You can convert it (with a certain efficiency) but the power is still there and gets transferred. The "lost" power is actually transformed into heat.
-= Sent from a parallel universe through a wormhole =-
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You are right, power is power. What @One Twelve said seems wrong. Power banks have lithium ion batteries (18650) so they are in 3.7 volts, lets think about one with 10.000 mah and 3.7 volt, they actually change between 4.2v and 3v but I am going to ignore that. Phone input is 5v and convertion here seems right, 3.7v 10k mA = 5v 7.4k mA . However you are missing a point. Your phone battery is li-poly and it is 3.7 volt as well, so power banks 10k mAh equals to 3 times 3.2k mAh phone battery. There will be bunch of conversions though, firs there is a step up circuit 3.7 to 5 volt on powerbank and then there will be step down inside 5 to 3.7 inside the phone. There will be loss on conversions, also there will be loss on cable and while you are charging your phone will consume some energy too unless it is turned off. Everything included I am able to charge my note 2 2 full times with my 10050 man Xiaomi power bank. I think after 10k mAh it starts beeing inconvenient.

ro_explorer said:
I have to disagree with some of the info. Power is power. No matter how you convert it and from how many cells it comes from, it is still power. The converters nowadays have an efficiency between 85 and 98%... so let's assume the average of 90%. So, for a power bank of (like you said) 10k mAh powered by a single li-ion element (average 3.7V) you get 37Wh power. Take 10% away and you remain with 33.3Wh.
The phone battery (HTC 10) is 3000mAh with a single cell design (3.7V). This means roughly 10Wh. So, you still have 3 full charges there.
The QC compatible chargers usually have multi-cell design so there is no need for a buck converter (voltage raiser). A 3 cells design (11.1 V) will be enough for QC 2.0 and a 4 cells design will meet QC 3.0 standard. And a normal. 18150 Li-ion cell (the most common type used nowadays in these chargers) can deliver 3000mAh w/o a problem (the good ones).
Again, power is power. You can convert it (with a certain efficiency) but the power is still there and gets transferred. The "lost" power is actually transformed into heat.
-= Sent from a parallel universe through a wormhole =-
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Click to collapse
My source is here
http://www.tp-link.com/en/faq-741.html
As a result of the test thread i used the info of voltage for QC2 and then made the calculation.

One Twelve said:
My source is here
http://www.tp-link.com/en/faq-741.html
As a result of the test thread i used the info of voltage for QC2 and them made the calculation.
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Your source seems wrong, what you are charging is 3.7v as well, hence it doesnt make sense to convert mAh value to 5 volts, unless that tplink is charging something exactly 5 volts.

TheMadcapl said:
Your source seems wrong, what you are charging is 3.7v as well, hence it doesnt make sense to convert mAh value to 5 volts, unless that tplink is charging something exactly 5 volts.
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You cant charge a phone with less than 5V. Use a usb power meter with any phone and see for yourself.
I find it remarkable that company that also sells power banks would have such an informative faq on setting expectations for their products.

One Twelve said:
You cant charge a phone with less than 5V. Use a usb power meter with any phone and see for yourself.
I find it remarkable that company that also sells power banks would have such an informative faq on setting expectations for their products.
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Yes, I explained it detailed in my first post. There would be a step up and then step down conversion, 3.7 -> 5 -> 3.7 . Thus in the end it is same 10k mAh.

TheMadcapl said:
Everything included I am able to charge my note 2 2 full times with my 10050 man Xiaomi power bank. I think after 10k mAh it starts beeing inconvenient.
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But I agree with your figure
2 full charges with stated 10k mah with non QC. Plus a little left in the bank.
Not 3 full charges, that is the point. As is being contended below by ro_explorer from 10k mah
What is wrong with the estimation I gave. It gives a figure close to your real life experience
If power is power and 3.7 is stepped to 5v and back down to 3.7, why aren't you getting 3 full charges from your power bank ?
There is no QC2 on the note 2 so its better. Maybe slower but you get more out of it.
What i wonder is how well the power bank can charge when you are using the device. Say you are watching youtube or using GPS. Can your Xiaomi charge more than you consume ?
Is a QC2 power bank really necessary in this case or can one get away with non QC.
ro_explorer said:
The phone battery (HTC 10) is 3000mAh with a single cell design (3.7V). This means roughly 10Wh. So, you still have 3 full charges there.
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jauhien said:
I say that 20Ah real life power bank purchased via real retailer and operated thru QC2 technology can charge hTc 10 which has 3 Ah built-in battery - up to 2.5 times in real life (and I know it from experience)..
He said - 2 times in real life (what is very close)
You disagreed and typed a bunch of stuff.. Can you just clearly state "how many times" real life power bank 20 Ah would charge in real life hTc 10 by QC tech..?
Sent from quite brutal hTc 10 ..
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A high quality 20mAh power bank should be able to charge the HTC 10, 0-100%, up to 6 times (considering some power loss due to conversion). A QC similar charger will go down in number of charges to probably 4-5 times due to high power loss through heat but, on the bright side, you charge 80% in 30 minutes.
-= Sent from a parallel universe through a wormhole =-

There is always some loss, I just tried to explain reason of that.
Note 2 has a sloppy USB port, thus I am not able get a healthy connection every time, if connection is solid it gets up to 1.5A with Xiaomi and short USB cable. So yes, it charges while actively using.
QC shouldn't effect the capacity. Let's say my Xiaomi charges my phone 2.2 times. I highly doubt that this number would decrease if my power bank charges it with QC 2.0. Some. People are saying their 20k bank charges only 2.5 times, well I wouldn't believe that without seeing maybe low quality, old, used 18650 cells used thatoght be the reason of it. I would have test it with constant current load.
Since I think there will be no difference I would definetely get a power bank that supports quick charge. Faster, better. Btw I guess efficiency gets lower as phone battery gets full. So if you want more of it, you might want to try it to charge only %50 of phone battery. I wonder how many cycle would there if you try it %0 - %50 - %0 - %50 and compare it to %0 - %100 - %0 - %100.

Best Fast charger(not wireless) for Pixel 3XL?

Hi pals,
I'm looking for a fast charger (default original one is not fast) for 3xl.
Actually how to select fast charger? What is the measure amps or watts?
And can xl can stand up to any fast charger or is it like it is only safe to use upto certain amps or so?
Thanks in advance

are you saying the OEM charger isn't fast? that'll put out as much as the pixel can handle, so no aftermarket charger will be any better. if you're just looking for a replacement, or maybe a multiport I've had very good luck with choetech products over the years. there are also the new gan chargers, which put out a ton of power from a small brick. they won't charge the pixel any faster, but if you have something like a laptop they can help

kellybrf said:
are you saying the OEM charger isn't fast? that'll put out as much as the pixel can handle, so no aftermarket charger will be any better. if you're just looking for a replacement, or maybe a multiport I've had very good luck with choetech products over the years. there are also the new gan chargers, which put out a ton of power from a small brick. they won't charge the pixel any faster, but if you have something like a laptop they can help
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Yeah the default isn't great in fast charging especially because I migrated from OnePlus 6.
In India there are quite a many fast chargers. I stay in India. Can you please link me choetech product. Will see if it is available in India.

harigavara said:
Yeah the default isn't great in fast charging especially because I migrated from OnePlus 6.
In India there are quite a many fast chargers. I stay in India. Can you please link me choetech product. Will see if it is available in India.
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you won't find anything faster than the OEM charger. it maxes out the pixels charging capacity

kellybrf said:
you won't find anything faster than the OEM charger. it maxes out the pixels charging capacity
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Click to collapse
That's right, go OEM charger

OEM charger it's fast charger isn't? maybe yours it’s s faulty? or not the original or something like that? There is some apps that can tell you how fast your phone it's charging, that might help

I like this charger due to its small size, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PT7XMP9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Anker 30W PIQ 3.0 & GaN Tech Power Delivery USB C Charger

Hi guys just to let you know i get much faster charging with s20+ charger then with stock one.
Look at screenshot

CROrION said:
Hi guys just to let you know i get much faster charging with s20+ charger then with stock one.
Look at screenshot
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Click to collapse
Just so you know from those screenshots the s20 charger is charging at a higher rate because the battery life is at a lower charge (28% vs 50% from the one using the stock picture). Have you actually timed a charge from each one from start to finish? The lower the battery is the faster it will charge. There was an article on here or maybe reddit about someone who researched the behavior of fast charge. I believe 40 or 50% is roughly where it starts cutting back on the charge rate.

adaptor S20 have dynamic tech, and by default pixel 3XL have 18W but the issue from some tech reviewer have hardware same like samsung S20 (25W)
so if you using adaptor s20 is better from original...
KUSOsan said:
Just so you know from those screenshots the s20 charger is charging at a higher rate because the battery life is at a lower charge (28% vs 50% from the one using the stock picture). Have you actually timed a charge from each one from start to finish? The lower the battery is the faster it will charge. There was an article on here or maybe reddit about someone who researched the behavior of fast charge. I believe 40 or 50% is roughly where it starts cutting back on the charge rate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

CROrION said:
Hi guys just to let you know i get much faster charging with s20+ charger then with stock one.
Look at screenshot
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i think you wrong moment compare this adaptor... S20+ using when 28% batery and standar adaptor when 52% so its diferent moment... try same when 28% s20+ dan original... you can real the result sir...

KUSOsan said:
Just so you know from those screenshots the s20 charger is charging at a higher rate because the battery life is at a lower charge (28% vs 50% from the one using the stock picture). Have you actually timed a charge from each one from start to finish? The lower the battery is the faster it will charge. There was an article on here or maybe reddit about someone who researched the behavior of fast charge. I believe 40 or 50% is roughly where it starts cutting back on the charge ra
KUSOsan said:
Just so you know from those screenshots the s20 charger is charging at a higher rate because the battery life is at a lower charge (28% vs 50% from the one using the stock picture). Have you actually timed a charge from each one from start to finish? The lower the battery is the faster it will charge. There was an article on here or maybe reddit about someone who researched the behavior of fast charge. I believe 40 or 50% is roughly where it starts cutting back on the charge rate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have pixel 3 XL, I tried multiple chargers (Ambrane 20w , 70w GaN charger , 18watt iPhone charger ,MI 22w powerbank ) at 28 % max speed I use to get around 2800mA .
Though he is comparing at different battery levels but more than 3400 mA is actually a great charging speed at 28%.
Click to expand...
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Th
CROrION said:
Hi guys just to let you know i get much faster charging with s20+ charger then with stock one.
Look at screenshot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you brother I was looking for this only

I use stock. However a colleague praised a 25w above. There is this option..
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Mini-Charger-Cable-Black/dp/B09135GHY9/ref=sr_1_24?crid=2MO29469OAWTH&keywords=ugreen+20w+usb+c+charger&qid=1654045974&sprefix=ugreen+20%2Caps%2C220&sr=8-24