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Hi there.I don´t know if this post goes here.Sorry if it doesn´t.I didn´t know where to put it
I was changing the digitizer on my Desire HD and I realize that that I broke the ribbon on the picture.Can anyone help me about what to do?Thanks in advance.
Sadly been there and done that....Only 1 solution-buy another. This process is next to impossible without lots of experience-parts are very fragile! Your best bet is to buy an entire assembly with the digitizer and lcd already attached. Much much easier, but not easy by any means still. Good luck.
rootntootn said:
Sadly been there and done that....Only 1 solution-buy another. This process is next to impossible without lots of experience-parts are very fragile! Your best bet is to buy an entire assembly with the digitizer and lcd already attached. Much much easier, but not easy by any means still. Good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks.I´ll do that.
you can fix that.
google ribbon cable fix and follow the procedure
(can't post direct link)
btw.
this you can't fix because the lines are simply too small
(I'm waiting for new LCD)
yamFZ6 said:
you can fix that.
google ribbon cable fix and follow the procedure
(can't post direct link)
btw.
this you can't fix because the lines are simply too small
(I'm waiting for new LCD)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A bit complicated for me.I will buy another lcd.Thanks anyway.
Hi again.I change the screen but now the wifi won´t work.I can´t activate the wifi.It says error.It´s like i don´t have a wifi antenna.Any help?
wifi antenna
I think your problem is bigger than an antenna. The antenna is the same one as the gps antenna and is fitted in the panel around the flash leds. If you were to enable the wifi and just could not pick up any access points, then I would say it was your antenna, but if you are receiving an error, it is more likely that either the wifi module is damaged or somehow disconnected.
Do the rest of the radio parts work? i.e. GPS, Cell, bluetooth? Can you tell me exactly what the error is that you are receiving?
Tamagotono
tamagotono said:
I think your problem is bigger than an antenna. The antenna is the same one as the gps antenna and is fitted in the panel around the flash leds. If you were to enable the wifi and just could not pick up any access points, then I would say it was your antenna, but if you are receiving an error, it is more likely that either the wifi module is damaged or somehow disconnected.
Do the rest of the radio parts work? i.e. GPS, Cell, bluetooth? Can you tell me exactly what the error is that you are receiving?
Tamagotono
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The cell,3g and gps are working fine.Bluetooh and wifi aren´t.When I activate the wifi I get an error message(it just shows "error").When I try to activate the bluetooth it just does nothing.
Thank you
bcm5 said:
The cell,3g and gps are working fine.Bluetooh and wifi aren´t.When I activate the wifi I get an error message(it just shows "error").When I try to activate the bluetooth it just does nothing.
Thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
did you check flex ribbon connection and rips on flex.
(also check volume buttons)
yamFZ6 said:
did you check flex ribbon connection and rips on flex.
(also check volume buttons)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are right.The volume button are not working!I didn´t try them before.What does it have to do with the wifi?I will open it again.
bcm5 said:
You are right.The volume button are not working!I didn´t try them before.What does it have to do with the wifi?I will open it again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
not much, but it is simple test for the flex ribbon.
open the phone and check the flex connection too motherboard
worst possible thing is that you ripped the flex ribbon during removal from middle chassis
2 areas worth checking-the reciever jack at the top of the phone CAN be put on in the wrong direction-red wire should be towards the top of the phone, black towards the bottom. The long, all black wire running by the camera is the bluetooth coaxial cable and maybe not on its connector properly-kind of pops on when right-check both ends. It also could be damaged/pinched running up through the phone. It could also just be a bad component on the upper board and that whole board needs replacing-a pain after what you've done already.
bluetooth/wifi and volume buttons not working
I think yamFZ6 is right. You likely have a cable not fully seated or a damaged cable. Both the Bluetooth and wifi are on the same chip so it makes sense that both of them would fail together, the volume buttons are a separate module, so they are likely all on a single cable that has issues.
One last thing to try before tearing it apart again, do a full wipe and see if it works properly. This is a long shot, but worth checking and can help with troubleshooting if you cannot find any cable issues.
Good luck,
Let us know what you find.
Tamagotono
Hi.Sorry for the delay.Been busy with work.I took some pictures of the phone.I don´t know if they will help.
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/4475/dscf1491c.jpg
http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/4964/dscf1487b.jpg
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/163/dscf1488a.jpg/
http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/9624/dscf1483n.jpg
Looks like the black wire (blue tooth coaxial) near the camera is in toward the battery area too far...battery would be pushing in on it every time and could have broken it...admit that's a long shot...but. Starting to feel like a new "upper" circuit board is in order...hope this helps
rootntootn said:
Looks like the black wire (blue tooth coaxial) near the camera is in toward the battery area too far...battery would be pushing in on it every time and could have broken it...admit that's a long shot...but. Starting to feel like a new "upper" circuit board is in order...hope this helps
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you know where to buy it?
I have seen it for sale somewhere out there but can't find out where that was now. I would look for a "parts" phone on ebay. usually you get more than a fair amount of usable other parts with it. I just did this for that exact issue plus I needed a 'mid frame'. I got just about everything else with it also as the lower, main board was the problem with that particular phone, Got a usable digitizer, lcd, case, extra wires, camera etc etc all for around $60. You also get the added luxury of more practice/expertise with assembly.
bcm5 said:
Do you know where to buy it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ebay $38 free shipping
yamFZ6 said:
ebay $38 free shipping
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you pass the link?Thank you.
bcm5 said:
Can you pass the link?Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-Fl...782?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f149ef696
Hi guys,
I recently dropped my phone on concrete, resulting in a nasty crack across the screen. Last night I received the new LCD/Digitizer and went ahead and replaced the screen (I opted to replace the LCD as well due to the copious amounts of glue used between the two parts). After many curse words were shared, I put it back together again and everything works perfectly... except Wifi.
I was wondering if anyone has had a similar issue, and where I should start looking to fix this? I took the cover off again to check both white (wifi?) cable and black (bluetooth?) cables, and both were connected as they should be.
Any help would be very much appreciated!
Tim
Go back through and check every wire and hook up. That's all you can do.
- hit my thanks button if i helped you -
hukel56 said:
Go back through and check every wire and hook up. That's all you can do.
- hit my thanks button if i helped you -
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, thanks for the reply. I went through it on Saturday very carefully looking for any wire or contact that was loose and unfortunately everything was correctly attached. I did notice that the bluetooth and wifi wire plugs on the lower board were *very* close to each other, so they may well have touched and caused a short. After checking everything over and reassembling the phone, wifi still didn't work I also checked bluetooth and that won't work either, so perhaps my suspicions about the wires contacting is correct.
Note to anyone else doing a repair on this phone: Be very careful that the wifi and bluetooth plugs don't touch each other. It's very easy for them to rotate around in their socket and contact each other. I'm not sure if this caused them to fail in my phone, but it could certainly be the reason why both no longer work.
Cheers
Did you seperate the wires...and did that work.
hukel56 said:
Did you seperate the wires...and did that work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, I separated the wires and still no luck :/
I also removed the wires just to see if it would at least turn allow me to turn on the wifi, but all it says is "error" in the wifi settings and I can't turn wifi on no matter what I try.
I have exact same problem: after LCD replacement wifi fails with ERROR. Also sometimes no reaction to POWER button - no power off menu neither LCD is off/on. Don`t expect any wires or so i could accidentally damage.
Solved
After dissasembling phone again i found that flex cable has not good connection to mainboard. I pressed connectors, felt some "click", reassembled phone and after booting everything is ok:
wifi, bt, volume buttons, leds while charging operating well. Attaching picture. The connectors are located right under sim card and micro sd card slots, you have to remove full mainboard and flex cable to fix that. Cheers!
juzis28 said:
After dissasembling phone again i found that flex cable has not good connection to mainboard. I pressed connectors, felt some "click", reassembled phone and after booting everything is ok:
wifi, bt, volume buttons, leds while charging operating well. Attaching picture. The connectors are located right under sim card and micro sd card slots, you have to remove full mainboard and flex cable to fix that. Cheers!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's really interesting. Thanks for the info. It's odd that the phone even functions if the flex cable might be loose. I may have a look and see if this is the problem too when I get a chance.
Yes, phone operate, but really weird behavior - some functions worked, some not, sometimes no reaction to power on button and so on. Hope this helps someone.
juzis28 said:
Yes, phone operate, but really weird behavior - some functions worked, some not, sometimes no reaction to power on button and so on. Hope this helps someone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm. I wonder if my issue is the same. I have experienced absolutely no odd behaviour other than wifi + bluetooth not working. Everything else works as it used to. GPS actually seems to work better haha. There are two flex cables so perhaps one of them does those two things.
TimHawker said:
Hmm. I wonder if my issue is the same. I have experienced absolutely no odd behaviour other than wifi + bluetooth not working. Everything else works as it used to. GPS actually seems to work better haha. There are two flex cables so perhaps one of them does those two things.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you haven`t found any other damage: wires, pcb, then most probably your issue is related to exact flex cable. Yes, here are two contacts where flex cable connects to m/b, its clearly seen on photos i attached. My problem was both flex cables become loose...
You're a real man. I would have paid someone to fix my screen.
DIY makes you a real man? lol
- sent from a flux in space -
juzis28 said:
After dissasembling phone again i found that flex cable has not good connection to mainboard. I pressed connectors, felt some "click", reassembled phone and after booting everything is ok:
wifi, bt, volume buttons, leds while charging operating well. Attaching picture. The connectors are located right under sim card and micro sd card slots, you have to remove full mainboard and flex cable to fix that. Cheers!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My WiFi (and Volume Keys) stopped working after I dropped my phone.
After reading your solution I removed the SIM/SD-Cover and just by pressing from outside, the cable snapped in.
No disassembling, not even a reboot! My DHD works like on it's first day!
Thanks!
Hi,
I have an Android 5.1 .1 unit with RK3188 chip 1G RAM. All works well but there is a weird rear camera issue. When I start the car and switch to backup gear, the rear camera always works normally, however, after driving 10 minutes or longer the camera does not work anymore and the screen shows an exclamation mark when gear switched to backup. This happens approximately 80% times, while the other 20% times the camera would work OK even after long driving time.
The camera is wired normally with power connected to backup light. Backup light power is also connect to the head unit as trigger for rear camera video.
I was initially thinking this could be a bad camera issue, but the problem persists after installation of a new camera. So it must be the unit.
Has anyone else experienced similar problem? Any help to fix the issue is much appreciated.
yves31 said:
Hi,
I have an Android 5.1 .1 unit with RK3188 chip 1G RAM. All works well but there is a weird rear camera issue. When I start the car and switch to backup gear, the rear camera always works normally, however, after driving 10 minutes or longer the camera does not work anymore and the screen shows an exclamation mark when gear switched to backup. This happens approximately 80% times, while the other 20% times the camera would work OK even after long driving time.
The camera is wired normally with power connected to backup light. Backup light power is also connect to the head unit as trigger for rear camera video.
I was initially thinking this could be a bad camera issue, but the problem persists after installation of a new camera. So it must be the unit.
Has anyone else experienced similar problem? Any help to fix the issue is much appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
modern car? possibly smart power management and therefore not sending enough power to the camera as it detects the reverse light not needing that much power. my vw golf does it and my friends bmw 1 series did, if its wired to a switch 12v does it do the same?
fma965 said:
modern car? possibly smart power management and therefore not sending enough power to the camera as it detects the reverse light not needing that much power. my vw golf does it and my friends bmw 1 series did, if its wired to a switch 12v does it do the same?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you, fma965. That makes sense.
The car is 2013 Prius. I did not realize cars are getting much smarter since last few years. 12v can come down a lot to save energy. I'll try to rewire the power connection.
yves31 said:
Thank you, fma965. That makes sense.
The car is 2013 Prius. I did not realize cars are getting much smarter since last few years. 12v can come down a lot to save energy. I'll try to rewire the power connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you may need to use a relay to detect when reverse light is on then trigger camera via 12v connection (elsewhere) otherwise the camera will be always on
yves31 said:
Thank you, fma965. That makes sense.
The car is 2013 Prius. I did not realize cars are getting much smarter since last few years. 12v can come down a lot to save energy. I'll try to rewire the power connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-to...fixings/halfords-hef554-relay-12v-30amp-4-pin is what i've used (UK)
12v cigareete lighter / battery to 1 pin, gnd to another pin, camera to the 3rd pin and the reverse light power to the 4th pin (not in that order)
fma965 said:
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-to...fixings/halfords-hef554-relay-12v-30amp-4-pin is what i've used (UK)
12v cigareete lighter / battery to 1 pin, gnd to another pin, camera to the 3rd pin and the reverse light power to the 4th pin (not in that order)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. I ordered a 12v/30amp/4pin relay and will install according to your instructions when it arrives.
fma965 said:
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-to...fixings/halfords-hef554-relay-12v-30amp-4-pin is what i've used (UK)
12v cigareete lighter / battery to 1 pin, gnd to another pin, camera to the 3rd pin and the reverse light power to the 4th pin (not in that order)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Relay came yesterday and I installed it. Pull cigarette lighter as 12v power source, wired to the relay switch, and connected rear light cable to relay as trigger.
To my surprise, the problem of video still persists! I can get rear camera video when starting the car, but loss video ~10 minutes after driving when shifting gear to reverse.
I made sure the relay wired correctly (If connected wrong, I would be either stuck in permanent rear camera video or no video after shifting to rear gear). I changed video cable as well to be sure no cable issue. Also noticed that when the problem appears, I have to wait for the head unit to shutdown completely (not to sleep mode) in order to get video back from rear camera.
Not sure if this is MCU bug. The problem started since I had the unit and MCU got updated once. I'll update one more time to see if anything changes.
yves31 said:
Relay came yesterday and I installed it. Pull cigarette lighter as 12v power source, wired to the relay switch, and connected rear light cable to relay as trigger.
To my surprise, the problem of video still persists! I can get rear camera video when starting the car, but loss video ~10 minutes after driving when shifting gear to reverse.
I made sure the relay wired correctly (If connected wrong, I would be either stuck in permanent rear camera video or no video after shifting to rear gear). I changed video cable as well to be sure no cable issue. Also noticed that when the problem appears, I have to wait for the head unit to shutdown completely (not to sleep mode) in order to get video back from rear camera.
Not sure if this is MCU bug. The problem started since I had the unit and MCU got updated once. I'll update one more time to see if anything changes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What MCU manufacturer and what version? i'm on KGL crossflashed to HA
fma965 said:
What MCU manufacturer and what version? i'm on KGL crossflashed to HA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's MTCD_KD_V2.41_1, and is already the latest version. I'll try to flash other manufacturer's MCU since most of them are compatible.
Prior to flashing, I should start by erasing current MCU settings and set to defaults. Do you know the best way to do so?
Edit:
MCU flashed to HA-2.52, but problem not changed. Seems to be a hardware issue, or compatibility issue with Prius.
I tried to wire rear camera to front video input. Image did show up, but I had to press a button each time when switching to back gear. I may have to live with the issue.
Strangely enough I have a 2010 Prius and yes I have a similar issue. Mine works almost always, but if I switch to reverse, then back to any gear, then back to reverse, more then 5-6 time during a minute, then I have the same as you. I'm pretty sure we have the same cause. If I reboot the unit everything is ok. Our situation is definitely different to the german cars as they have a detection circuit for failed bulb and that is the reason for their issues. Ours don't have that, at least ZVW30 Prius. I doubt it's the power or the camera. That is the unit itself and as you say probably poor hardware design.
Agree with you.
Additional note:
I had some issues after cross flashing MCU. Lost RDS in radio and iGo became very slow. Now I flash original KD MCU back and everything got back to normal. Cross flash MCU may not be always a good idea.
Hi you solved?
Mine do the same..its another car...more strange that mine works fine before i change battery...after that start with problems...
It switch but take 5 mins at least...
I rewire.put relay.put direct 12 and nothins..sometimes it works at second..bit after nothings....
Any help?
Thanks
Hello,
I had the same issue and check voltage. For an insane reason, the wire provided with the radar kit was totaly failing.. measured voltage was around 5 volts whereas camera required 12v ( i though to the USB volatge first, but, no!). This red&black wire, i don't known how, went to a huge resistance... may be pinch. I change for good power wire and throw away the bad one. My rear camera get back...
Bruno
yves31 said:
Thank you, fma965. That makes sense.
The car is 2013 Prius. I did not realize cars are getting much smarter since last few years. 12v can come down a lot to save energy. I'll try to rewire the power connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm looking for someone who knows how to rewire. You guys know a good place?
Anyone else got this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QV67XBW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So far I'm loving it!
scythe000 said:
Anyone else got this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QV67XBW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So far I'm loving it!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
those 10" units are known to have a space between the display and the actual touch, resulting in almost a 3D / depth-like effect of the stuff onscreen (when watched from an angle, which happens usually where the driver or passenger are looking at it, no one is looking straight perpendicular to the screen). Is this also the case with this unit?
Is it known under different names? I’d love to find a thread’s talking about software options. Anyway, I don’t really notice any kind of a 3-D effect, if you look at it from an extreme angle, it does look like there is a small gap, but I definitely don’t feel it when pressing on the glass. It’s a beautiful display, a lot nicer than I would have expected.
Bluetooth seems not working in the 20190428 update.
Tried update and clean install, neither Bluetooth worked. The rest so far so good.
WangYcca said:
Bluetooth seems not working in the 20190428 update.
Tried update and clean install, neither Bluetooth worked. The rest so far so good.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where are you finding the updates?
scythe000 said:
Is it known under different names? I’d love to find a thread’s talking about software options. Anyway, I don’t really notice any kind of a 3-D effect, if you look at it from an extreme angle, it does look like there is a small gap, but I definitely don’t feel it when pressing on the glass. It’s a beautiful display, a lot nicer than I would have expected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes, the display is beautiful, very good contrast and color saturation.
i've seen one installed in a car few days ago, and the first thing i noticed (was sitting in the passenger seat) was the depth effect. This effect is not present in all other units 7", 8" or 9". You could see it more in the launcher main screen (it was an Ownice), less in FM radio app or mediaplayer, navi, etc...
another thing that i didn't like was that for my car i had to cancel the airbag warning connector since the unit comes with own mask and for VW/Skoda the mask that is used for 8 or 9" units has a airbag connector. The Ownice 10.2" did not. Also an issue is the huge screen at night with white background apps which even at lowest brightness they still blow your eyes off
I may buy the dsp version soon from ali express.
I need to find out if the mcu is an MTCE first, as hal9k will be developing his rom for px6 mtce, and i wouldnt be suprised if malaysk adds it too
mindriot said:
I may buy the dsp version soon from ali express.
I need to find out if the mcu is an MTCE first, as hal9k will be developing his rom for px6 mtce, and i wouldnt be suprised if malaysk adds it too
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dasaita manufactures only mtce units
Enviado desde mi SM-G950F mediante Tapatalk
zerozoneice said:
yes, the display is beautiful, very good contrast and color saturation.
i've seen one installed in a car few days ago, and the first thing i noticed (was sitting in the passenger seat) was the depth effect. This effect is not present in all other units 7", 8" or 9". You could see it more in the launcher main screen (it was an Ownice), less in FM radio app or mediaplayer, navi, etc...
another thing that i didn't like was that for my car i had to cancel the airbag warning connector since the unit comes with own mask and for VW/Skoda the mask that is used for 8 or 9" units has a airbag connector. The Ownice 10.2" did not. Also an issue is the huge screen at night with white background apps which even at lowest brightness they still blow your eyes off
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
to clarify this, i suspect the ownice i saw had that 2.5D+nano screen, because my 10.2 dasaita has no depth issue whatsoever on its ips screen.
reg. airbag warning, it's just not visible, you need to take it out from the old cover together without unplugging it and just place it behind the screen. it won't give errors but it's not visible either...
zerozoneice said:
to clarify this, i suspect the ownice i saw had that 2.5D+nano screen, because my 10.2 dasaita has no depth issue whatsoever on its ips screen.
reg. airbag warning, it's just not visible, you need to take it out from the old cover together without unplugging it and just place it behind the screen. it won't give errors but it's not visible either...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
also no issues on my IPS screen either! Great unit for what it is. Of course there are little issues here and there like all units.
I rooted mine so I could freeze apps I don't need and really clean everything up
stokedcrf said:
also no issues on my IPS screen either! Great unit for what it is. Of course there are little issues here and there like all units.
I rooted mine so I could freeze apps I don't need and really clean everything up
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have advices to root dasaita px6 ?
Thank you
Waiting infos on root aswell
What about fastboot? Can it do 2s boot? and sleep with <1mA low power?
Has anyone looked at (somehow) adding HD Radio?
My Rav4 HU has this and I've found it to be much better at receiving a signal (where I live anyway). I'm looking at a PX6 dasaita unit on Ali (also), but they all have the 6686 radio chip, where the 6688 radio chip has HD Radio included. I wonder if the 6688 couldn't be somehow retrofitted? Yes of course there would have to be pin compatibility etc, has anyone looked at that by chance?
I'm so tempted to just buy one and say scr*w the HD Radio... but sadly it's about the only thing I use the HU for! it would be hard to give that up as I almost always have the screen off
Cheers, they sure do look nice, would love to have one. Not sure if it would suit my needs though, when all said and done.
scythe000 said:
Anyone else got this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QV67XBW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So far I'm loving it!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you also have carplay wire/wireless chip on unit? did you see if that is able to charge your iphone with carplay on?
ALso have you driven longer than 2 hrs? with this unit ? I had PX5 and it used to reset over using it continuously for 2hr or more. and also PX5 was not charging iPhone while carplay was on.
If possible could any one update me on this?
pritamjagtap said:
Do you also have carplay wire/wireless chip on unit? did you see if that is able to charge your iphone with carplay on?
ALso have you driven longer than 2 hrs? with this unit ? I had PX5 and it used to reset over using it continuously for 2hr or more. and also PX5 was not charging iPhone while carplay was on.
If possible could any one update me on this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It does charge while doing CarPlay because it’s wireless so I just plug it into my charger. Works totally fine for hours on end. I’ve got an annoying bug with VLC thinking it doesn’t have delete permissions unless I manually grant it twice, but that’s unrelated. Also a bug with my iphones voice to text requires me to type a character first before it’ll pick up mic input, but I think it’s an iPhone issue.
scythe000 said:
It does charge while doing CarPlay because it’s wireless so I just plug it into my charger. Works totally fine for hours on end. I’ve got an annoying bug with VLC thinking it doesn’t have delete permissions unless I manually grant it twice, but that’s unrelated. Also a bug with my iphones voice to text requires me to type a character first before it’ll pick up mic input, but I think it’s an iPhone issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So far looks good then.
I do not find any description on link you got on amazon, specifying about wireless carplay, i tried contacting Iris he replied that there is option to get carplay wire/wireless on PX6. I ask him to send me link to product he is yet to reply.
Did you have to specify Dasaita to get you wireless carplay? or its just standard now?
pritamjagtap said:
So far looks good then.
I do not find any description on link you got on amazon, specifying about wireless carplay, i tried contacting Iris he replied that there is option to get carplay wire/wireless on PX6. I ask him to send me link to product he is yet to reply.
Did you have to specify Dasaita to get you wireless carplay? or its just standard now?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I could be mistaken, but I think it's wireless. I hadn't asked for anything in particular, so it might be standard now.
I have dasaita - car play works on wire plus you have to have additional box/device ( can buy it in bundle with head unit). When iPhone connected through it - CarPlay works seamlessly and your phone is charging.
One more thing - you need to have application for CarPlay too.
Regards. k
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
scythe000 said:
I could be mistaken, but I think it's wireless. I hadn't asked for anything in particular, so it might be standard now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Would you mind creating a video and share it over youtube? about carplay ? I am interested to see it.(& I believe most of us here wants to)
I have posted mine about blackout screen a while ago.
https://youtu.be/1qTh_JQggm8
https://youtu.be/1qTh_JQggm8
Hi everyone,
I have ordered almost 2 years ago a Dasaita 9" Android 10 Head Unit (4G 64G Octa Core) for my 2009 Forester. Until yesterday the device worked fine, I really loved and enjoyed it, I was really impressed with it. The only thing I change I was the launcher and mainly used it for Google Maps, Spotify and Torque Pro.
Yesterday on my way to my mate’s, 50km on the way, the head unit just stopped working, I was just using google maps and listening some tunes on Spotify. (note: the screen was hot to the touch).
Since then the screen is totally black and the only thing that lights up when I turn on the lights are the side buttons. I tried to reset, the lights are flashing then nothing. No matter what the screen remains dead. Also I noticed my OBD2 adapter doesn’t connect automatically to the HU as it used to and I can’t connect by Bluetooth with my phone neither.
All this brings me to think that the HU is dead ????
I saw few videos and threads online with people having more or less the same issue… anyone got a solution or faced the same problem ?
Thank you for the help
What steps have been taken to investigate
MrPoopyButtOle said:
Hi everyone,
I have ordered almost 2 years ago a Dasaita 9" Android 10 Head Unit (4G 64G Octa Core) for my 2009 Forester. Until yesterday the device worked fine, I really loved and enjoyed it, I was really impressed with it. The only thing I change I was the launcher and mainly used it for Google Maps, Spotify and Torque Pro.
Yesterday on my way to my mate’s, 50km on the way, the head unit just stopped working, I was just using google maps and listening some tunes on Spotify. (note: the screen was hot to the touch).
Since then the screen is totally black and the only thing that lights up when I turn on the lights are the side buttons. I tried to reset, the lights are flashing then nothing. No matter what the screen remains dead. Also I noticed my OBD2 adapter doesn’t connect automatically to the HU as it used to and I can’t connect by Bluetooth with my phone neither.
All this brings me to think that the HU is dead ????
I saw few videos and threads online with people having more or less the same issue… anyone got a solution or faced the same problem ?
Thank you for the help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd pull the unit and check you didn't just lose you 12v or ground cable.
gottahavit said:
I'd pull the unit and check you didn't just lose you 12v or ground cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your answers.
So I have pulled the unit out and checked with the multimeter, I’ve got a good ground and I read 12V (from the harness adapter). These seems fine right ?!
I assume you've tried the reset button?
Does the Daisata have a detachable screen? On my joying I'd check the ribbon cable.
Next I'd attach the 12v and ground to an external source(got a battery charger around?)
If that all fails then I guess try to talk to the Seller.
gottahavit said:
I assume you've tried the reset button?
Does the Daisata have a detachable screen? On my joying I'd check the ribbon cable.
Next I'd attach the 12v and ground to an external source(got a battery charger around?)
If that all fails then I guess try to talk to the Seller.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The screen isn’t detachable.
I got in touch with the seller and that’s his reply:
“1. Do you try to power off the device to check?
2. If you have power off and it still doesn\'t help. Please remove the power cable and then wait 3 minutes to plug it again.
3. After plug the power cable, wait 3 minutes, and then click the touch screen button to check whether you can hear the sound.
4. If you can hear the sound, you can check the 2 bands in the following:
https://image.pushauction.com/0/0/dce5012a-1758-4291-8a6d-52d646eb6789/d770b77d-524c-47b5-8e88-6454abf03318.jpg
Here is the video for you to check how to unplug one band:
you can follow it to check another bands.
5. If the step 4 don't help, you can check the unplug the core chip, and then plug it aigan:
6. If the step 5 don\'t help, please use the pin to press the RST after you reconnect the power cable. You should press the RST hole until you saw the button light is flashing
to check whether you can see the image now.”
I’ve followed the steps 1 to 3 and nothing happened, no sounds.
just got back from work and I’m gonna give a shot to no4, unplug the chip…
I would press the reset pin as the first step, but as long as they are helping you through it.
If the unit has HDMI output, I would suggest hooking up an external monitor. If you see a valid image on the external monitor, then most likely the problem is the LCD display in the head unit. If nothing is displayed on the external then it's likely the core board or some part of the mainboard which may have overheated. These units have many weak points that can render them useless.
I will share with you that I had this exact same unit as yours and the TFT board (it's the board that interfaces the LCD display to the mainboard) had a component burn up which left the screen dark. Dasaita provided a new TFT board which got the display working again. If you do manage to get the unit going again, never run the display brightness at 100% or you risk having the TFT board problem.
Requested moderator to move this thread to MTCD Android Head Units General.
jlbooth said:
If the unit has HDMI output, I would suggest hooking up an external monitor. If you see a valid image on the external monitor, then most likely the problem is the LCD display in the head unit. If nothing is displayed on the external then it's likely the core board or some part of the mainboard which may have overheated. These units have many weak points that can render them useless.
I will share with you that I had this exact same unit as yours and the TFT board (it's the board that interfaces the LCD display to the mainboard) had a component burn up which left the screen dark. Dasaita provided a new TFT board which got the display working again. If you do manage to get the unit going again, never run the display brightness at 100% or you risk having the TFT board problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There isn’t a HDMI output, is there another way I could hook it up to a monitor ???
It’s interesting what you’re saying about the brightness, I often had it on max during the day and my partner who had the car on the day the unit died told me that she had the car heaters on ( it’s cold in the part of Australia where we at) and noticed that just before dying the screen brightness went dim.
it’s really confusing right now as I can’t figure out what exactly is the problem.
I tried everything the seller suggested and nothing worked. How long did your unit last ? I’m just wondering if I should just get a new one but it is annoying as I only had it for 2 years and I got the top of the range (at the time) from them.
Thank you
Only other option I can think of is that there may be composite video out connections via RCA connections if it has those. Since you say it does not connect to your phone via Bluetooth, that suggests the unit is not booting up when power removed and reconnected. I would venture a guess that the coreboard has an issue especially if the problem was caused by a thermal issue. But that's only an inconclusive guess on my part.
Even when the screen was an issue the unit would boot up and it connected with my phone.
My unit lasted about 5 months before the screen problem. However it was in my second vehicle and it wasn't my daily driver, thus it probably wouldn't have lasted that long if it was being used everyday. Fortunately in my case Dasaita provided the needed replacement board at no charge under warranty.
MrPoopyButtOle said:
The screen isn’t detachable.
I got in touch with the seller and that’s his reply:
“1. Do you try to power off the device to check?
2. If you have power off and it still doesn\'t help. Please remove the power cable and then wait 3 minutes to plug it again.
3. After plug the power cable, wait 3 minutes, and then click the touch screen button to check whether you can hear the sound.
4. If you can hear the sound, you can check the 2 bands in the following:
https://image.pushauction.com/0/0/dce5012a-1758-4291-8a6d-52d646eb6789/d770b77d-524c-47b5-8e88-6454abf03318.jpg
Here is the video for you to check how to unplug one band:
you can follow it to check another bands.
5. If the step 4 don't help, you can check the unplug the core chip, and then plug it aigan:
6. If the step 5 don\'t help, please use the pin to press the RST after you reconnect the power cable. You should press the RST hole until you saw the button light is flashing
to check whether you can see the image now.”
I’ve followed the steps 1 to 3 and nothing happened, no sounds.
just got back from work and I’m gonna give a shot to no4, unplug the chip…
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From my teardowns of my MAX10 unit (Toyota Universal + PX6 + Car Play), you have a little driver board behind the screen. It isn't the same as the picture you sent as mine is a universal type unit. On yours all the buttons are off the big pcb board and the driver board is soldered onto that (so not physically removable without some soldering). But if the buttons light up then your unit is turning on somewhat. So what I can see from step 4: #2 is the ribbon connecting the screen driver board to the mainboard; #3 is ribbon connector for the lcd display panel, #1 is your CPU board. There's a photo translator app on google play if you want to give that a try with the labels in Chinese.
Best of luck with this mate. The HDMI out is a mini HDMI connector on the CPU board - see if you can get that to display something on a spare screen (on later units they just have a cable to that directly and they sell it off as having hdmi out). If it doesn't output anything then your CPU is potentially dead at this point. There is an STM32 microcontroller (i.e. the MCU) on the amp board and that can be powering up the button lights.
That "driver board" that @nxdesign refers to is the TFT board that Dasaita provided a replacement when my unit died. I could tell that my particular unit was at least booting up as I could see that it was pairing with bluetooth on my phone. I tend to believe OP's problem is either CPU or MCU failure - perhaps thermal related. These units don't provide adequate cooling.
You're welcome to send it to me in NZ, I often get SOMs sent to me for repair and would be happy to look at your unit. Failing that, suggest warranty.
nxdesign said:
From my teardowns of my MAX10 unit (Toyota Universal + PX6 + Car Play), you have a little driver board behind the screen. It isn't the same as the picture you sent as mine is a universal type unit. On yours all the buttons are off the big pcb board and the driver board is soldered onto that (so not physically removable without some soldering). But if the buttons light up then your unit is turning on somewhat. So what I can see from step 4: #2 is the ribbon connecting the screen driver board to the mainboard; #3 is ribbon connector for the lcd display panel, #1 is your CPU board. There's a photo translator app on google play if you want to give that a try with the labels in Chinese.
Best of luck with this mate. The HDMI out is a mini HDMI connector on the CPU board - see if you can get that to display something on a spare screen (on later units they just have a cable to that directly and they sell it off as having hdmi out). If it doesn't output anything then your CPU is potentially dead at this point. There is an STM32 microcontroller (i.e. the MCU) on the amp board and that can be powering up the button lights.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your help mate !
I couldn’t find this hdmi connector on the board. The seller is telling me it’s probably the core board and said the shipping cost isn’t worth it to send it back to them. Is there a different way to check the display ???
MrPoopyButtOle said:
Thank you for your help mate !
I couldn’t find this hdmi connector on the board. The seller is telling me it’s probably the core board and said the shipping cost isn’t worth it to send it back to them. Is there a different way to check the display ???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A dead coreboard will mean you have a shell of a unit. Can they sell you a fresh coreboard? Or even better give you a new unit at a discount? Who knows what else might have been damaged with the heat.
Just an update on this. The unit was sent to me and received today.
The root cause was that the SOM was non-booting. Recovering the SOM via MASKROM has restored the unit.
The SOM has no additional heatsink or cooling, and this may have been a contributing factor.
can u tell me how do u fix it?? i also have same problem....?
Nothing worked after I did everything the merchant suggested. What was the lifespan of your unit? I'm wondering if I should just get a new one, but it's a pain because I just had it for two years and it was the top of the line (at the time).