Hi everyone
I searched everywhere on internet but nothing seems to be my case.
I have my nvidia controller gen2 (2017) that made some strange thing, all of a sudden I can't power up the controller. but if I try the shield TV sees it and even upgraded the firmware but I can only use the analog sticks, all physical buttons not responding.
On my PC (USB) the controller is seen like a xbox 360 controller and same thing occurs , I can move the analog stick but buttons are not responding.
I tried all thing nvidia support told me but nothing worked and the controller is not on warranty anymore (too old)
If I put the controller on charge, the left side is quite hot but still no power when I push the nvidia button.
So I teared down the controller to unplug the battery connector and plug it after a little rest but nothing more.
Anyone have an idea before I go further on the teardown and get out the mainboard of the controler case ?
Thank you
If its getting hot when charging then it can be a battery issue. Best way to confirm is to open the controller up then connect to charger and check where it gets hot. If its the batteries then you can replace them. Its just 2 x AA nimhs in series.
you can try this too. disconnect the battery from inside the controller then connect the controller to a computers usb port and check in the pad config tool if its working fine and if its not getting hot any more. if its no longer getting hot that means its a battery charging issue and the battery probably not accepting charge anymore and needs replacement.
that battery itself does have a thermal probe on it so the controller can monitor the temperature of the battery.
slybunda said:
you can try this too. disconnect the battery from inside the controller then connect the controller to a computers usb port and check in the pad config tool if its working fine and if its not getting hot any more. if its no longer getting hot that means its a battery charging issue and the battery probably not accepting charge anymore and needs replacement.
that battery itself does have a thermal probe on it so the controller can monitor the temperature of the battery.
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I tested the controller on my computer
it's shown as Nvidia controller v1.04 but in the controller test it's shown as xbox360 controller
Only the 3 axis are responding , when I push a button it's not shown on windows test, it's like i'm not pressing any button.
It seems the motherboard is dead
Related
I have my PS4 controller connected up to the M8 (via OTG cable as Bluetooth for me seems a bit too laggy in response) and it works perfectly fine apart from the fact that it absolutely destroys battery life.
I've noticed that this is because when I connect the PS4 controller to my phone, as well as working fine as a controller, my phone insists on charging the Dualshock controller at the same time. I verified this by using the controller on the PS4, but connecting it to my phone and sure enough, the battery indicator on the TV shows its being charged.
I believe this is probably draining my battery on the M8 more than actually playing games. Using various emulators like SNES9X for instance is dropping my battery by almost 50% in one hour, and I'm sure this is due to the fact my phone is charging the controller at the same time.
I've had a little look around the settings on the phone, but cannot see what to do (or even if its possible) to have it not charge the controller when connected. Anyone have any idea?
Hi there everyone,
I have been trying to get my Nexus 7 2013 installed into my car seamlessly without problems since December 2015. I have Timur's Kernel v4 (6.0.1) running on it, and it was working flawlessly.
However, I decided that the no battery mod needed to be done as I just could not leave that battery inside a hot car - way too risky.
So, I did the Kevdav no battery mod - with success.
However, once the battery connection was receiving 5v via a usb car charger the OTG cable connected to the tablet's mini usb port would not wake/suspend the tablet properly. It would wake it up, but once it was awake the little battery icon at the top would forever show that it was 'charging' and once power was cut to the otg y cable / mini usb, it would not suspend (would still show as charging).
I did research, and bought a Drok DC-DC step down converter. I lowered the voltage to the battery mod connection to 3.7v (and tested up to 4.7v) and this alleviated the problem of suspend/wake. I think since the original battery gave out less voltage then the otg/charging connection, this needed to be replicated in order for the otg to work.
However, I now have a new problem that I cannot seem to fix. This problem only seems to happen in the car and does not occur when testing it in the house using normal wall chargers.
For clarity, this is how everything is wired up in the car.
Nexus 7 battery mod side of things:
Nexus 7 battery terminals > 22awg usb cable > drok dc dc step down power supply (this board has a female usb port for output) set at 3.7v (tested up to 4.7v) > input is connected to car's constant 12v connected directly to battery on a fused wire.
Nexus 7 mini usb port side of things:
Nexus 7 mini usb port > usb otg y cable > mini usb cable > 2.4a usb car cig adapter hardwired to car's switched 12v accessory wire.
The link to the drok dc dc step down is this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01FDBY66Y/ref=twister_B01GO268W6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I turn on acc ignition to send power to the otg connection. It'll power up. However, if left in standby overnight the tablet won't power up. If I physically press the tablet's power button it'll wake up, show the wake up animation, and react as normal (including any subsequent power downs). However, if I don't press the power button and I turn off the ign again, an icon on my car's instrument cluster will be faintly illuminated - this is odd behaviour and should be completely out. When this is the case, if I get out and try to lock the car the remote central locking doesn't work.
This light will go out if I physically disconnect the otg y cable from the tablet, and low and behold the remote central locking works.
I'm no expert on electronics and such, but it seems to me that power may be flooding back into the OTG connection from the no battery mod power?
Does this make sense? Sorry for the long question, but I was wondering if anyone had any experience with troubleshooting or any advice? I've this one problem and then I'm set but I just can't seem to figure anything out and need someone's advice who is in the know rather than take wild stabs in the dark using my own logic because if I do the latter, not only will I waste money on needless components but I'll more than likely break something. I've read stuff about diodes or something in order to regulate power flow but I'm not even sure I'm using the correct terminology here so if anyone can tell me I'm onto something here or I'm talking complete nonsense then anything is appreciated!
I did search these forums and google but I really cannot find anything that is similar to my problem.
Thanks for any input guys, whether it be any tips on what I'm missing or what I need to change (software or hardware, electrical, etc) - it's all very much appreciated.
Antony
Edit: so sorry I think I posted this is the wrong n7 2013 sub section. I can't delete the post but if a mod could please kindly move it to the relevant forum I'd appreciate it. Thanks!
antc101 said:
it seems to me that power may be flooding back into the OTG connection from the no battery mod power?
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Hi, indeed, and your "2.4a usb car cig adapter hardwired to car's switched 12v accessory wire" requires a small mod to prevent the power feedback. It needs an extra 1A+ diode connected directly to 12V input. You could modify the adapter's PCB or simply replace the fuse's internal wire with a diode where its cathode goes to the spring and its anode to 12V input. Or just place the diode somewhere along the adapter's hardwire. $0.16 1N4001 is good enough ([email protected] is OK for [email protected]).
Not sure if thread is still active but I also have the same symptom with tablet turning off completely overnight. I am running constant 12v to 3.7v dc to dc on battery input and car adapter 12v to 5v on microusb cable in. Tablet will work fine with on and off but after car is shutdown for the night it will not turn on in the morning. It shows me battery charge icon only. I dont have diode installed either. Not sure if thats the cause. Anyone know why it would completly shutdown overnight?
Neo2020Marz said:
Not sure if thread is still active but I also have the same symptom with tablet turning off completely overnight. I am running constant 12v to 3.7v dc to dc on battery input and car adapter 12v to 5v on microusb cable in. Tablet will work fine with on and off but after car is shutdown for the night it will not turn on in the morning. It shows me battery charge icon only. I dont have diode installed either. Not sure if thats the cause. Anyone know why it would completly shutdown overnight?
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Hi there,
Been a while since I posted on this thread but just wanted to update on what I have done so far.
Since my last post, I don't have any issues. I placed a diode as mentioned above on the +12v for the accessory power. This seemed to have fixed any back flow of power.
Concerning the power off over night, I'm pretty sure this was something to do with Timur's kernel. I forever had issues with that thing - eg, suspect and wake issues, accessories connected to my usb hub..
I switched to a stock version of android 6.0.1 - MOB30X if memory serves... and installed Elemental X version 5.16. No issues with this setup what so ever.
Huh.
I run my Nexus 7 on my car with the battery, mounted just above the dashboard, with direct sunlight exposition and no UV film on the windshield. It's been a whole year without issues, thank God.
https://i.imgur.com/cPNhDDc.jpg
I live in the Northeast of Brazil, where's 30C to 40C through the year. Sometimes I come up to the car and the tablet shut off due to the heat.
Battery still lasts wonders and there's no signs of damage.. yet.
Is it really adamant to remove the battery, or is it just a precautionary measure?
GTMoraes said:
Huh.
I run my Nexus 7 on my car with the battery, mounted just above the dashboard, with direct sunlight exposition and no UV film on the windshield. It's been a whole year without issues, thank God.
https://i.imgur.com/cPNhDDc.jpg
I live in the Northeast of Brazil, where's 30C to 40C through the year. Sometimes I come up to the car and the tablet shut off due to the heat.
Battery still lasts wonders and there's no signs of damage.. yet.
Is it really adamant to remove the battery, or is it just a precautionary measure?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You better have more luck.
My nexus was put under the dash and was fine for around 3 years. And it became expanded in just 2 days, separating the screen and the case. So I have urgently remove the battery.
Has anyone tried using wireless charging receiver pad, like this one for example, with their Max 3? I'm curious if it'd work with the metal body in the first place. Additionally, I wonder if using wireless charging receiver pad would cause the battery to overheat and bloat...I had some bad experience with Mi Mix in the past doing that - wireless charging worked, but over the course of few months battery swell up to a point it was bulging out, and cracked open the back cover, even though it was supposed to be unremovable.
If anyone has actually tried using it with their Max 3 - would appreciate some feedback.
It depends if there is a controller chip inside this unit or if its just feeding strait power from the charger?
If so then there is no limitation in output power and that might be whats causing the failing battery.
If there was a controller the power would start low, add up to around 1A and then lower it self to 700ma and so on when the percentage gets higher.
If theres just strait power it would just keep pumping no mather what the state of the charge is
SUPERUSER said:
It depends if there is a controller chip inside this unit or if its just feeding strait power from the charger?
If so then there is no limitation in output power and that might be whats causing the failing battery.
If there was a controller the power would start low, add up to around 1A and then lower it self to 700ma and so on when the percentage gets higher.
If theres just strait power it would just keep pumping no mather what the state of the charge is
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Click to collapse
2nd picture on the left for this one and 4th picture on the left for this one - is that the controller chip we're talking about?
So many people got their Max 3 already...Was hoping by now someone would try a receiver pad and post feedback
Hello fellow Xda forum members, I'm hoping someone can shed a light on what has happened to my Samsung P5210 tablet. Unfortunately this tablet has turned off and will not swtich on at all, my pc & odin don't recognize it. I've charged the battery externally but it won't turn on, & if I plug it into a wall charger the motherboard starts heating up on the upper right hand side of the tablet (under the power button). I've unplugged all flex cables and even changed the power connector cable but to no avail. I've tested the power connector on the mainboard with a voltage pen tester & no voltage passes when the tablet is being wall charged or when the battery is connected. Has any ever had this problem & how did they solve it? I'd really like to recover my files that were on my tablet if it was possible. Thank you for any assistance provided. Rocco
Does your PC recognise it in Device Manager?
Thank you Jespert for your reply. No, unfortunately neither desktop pc's nor laptops recognizie the tablet. I had the chance to bring my tablet to a technician
for repairs and he was able to turn on the tablet externally without using the battery and they kind of think that a transisitor could be at fault as the battery and connectors work perfectly.
maybe display problem? mine won't turn on so I disconnected the display cable and put it back in and it worked
Hi Andrei the Android Guy, thanks for the read & reply. I replaced the flex cable & disconnected the battery connector which worked in the past, so I think I can eliminate all other possibilities (I did unplug all other flex cables just in case). The tablet warms up when charging so I checked up on the internet & it seems that these series of Samsung tablets suffer from power management problems, something which was confirmed from the technician I brought it too for repairs (they managed to boot it up by rebuilding the charging circuit & it worked fine). I'm really griping about the fact that I couldn't copy my files before it turned off.
Hi, i've been researching A LOT about ACA charging + maintaining the OTG connection. The idea here is to get the phone connected to a 3D printer while charging, so the printer won't stop if the pone runs out of battery.
I've tested a USB C hub with HDMI and a y splitter cable capable of PD (both working great with a mi 10t lite) but as soon as i plug in the charger cable the printer gets disconnected...
I've found old threads claiming that your phone has to be able to hand that ACA connection, so i've been looking at the oficial released kernel and trying some different kernels and roms without any progress at all... Since it's a USB C idk if something like this it's posible
[KERNEL] Power over OTG host mod.
[From my README] A mod for the Oneplus One DWC3 otg module. This allows for charging and host mode simultaneously, inspired by Ziddey's msm_otg mod for the Nexus 4/7 (2013). Functionality was ported over from his kernel hack to the DWC3 USB...
forum.xda-developers.com
Btw i've installed a cheap charging pcb from Ali since the original board stopped charging, idk if this could be the issue and It should work just fine. I'd be glad if any of you can test a working mi a1 with some charging + USB dongle...
Also since it'll be an stationary unit i've been thinking of making a dummy battery tearing apart the original battery and connecting it's PCB to a constant 4.2v power supply, but I guess that a constant voltage will make the phone think it's loosing battery until It power's down itself. I've read that you can change the startup kernel's battery guessing direct read of the voltage to a kind of percentage and this should get a constant % of battery with the constant voltage, but I don't really know if It's even posible.
So what do you think It's the best possible way to go now? I think long term would be the dummy battery. Desoldering the battery PCB and getting a 4.2v 2a charging unit or stepper down connected to It seems solid since the battery PCB Will protect the phone against spikes and I can case all that in a 3d printed battery shell, but i'm afraid of not getting the kernel to read It properly.
Also no, a raspi is too expensive nowadays and I'm trying to keep this project idea as cheap as possible.