Has anyone tried using wireless charging receiver pad, like this one for example, with their Max 3? I'm curious if it'd work with the metal body in the first place. Additionally, I wonder if using wireless charging receiver pad would cause the battery to overheat and bloat...I had some bad experience with Mi Mix in the past doing that - wireless charging worked, but over the course of few months battery swell up to a point it was bulging out, and cracked open the back cover, even though it was supposed to be unremovable.
If anyone has actually tried using it with their Max 3 - would appreciate some feedback.
It depends if there is a controller chip inside this unit or if its just feeding strait power from the charger?
If so then there is no limitation in output power and that might be whats causing the failing battery.
If there was a controller the power would start low, add up to around 1A and then lower it self to 700ma and so on when the percentage gets higher.
If theres just strait power it would just keep pumping no mather what the state of the charge is
SUPERUSER said:
It depends if there is a controller chip inside this unit or if its just feeding strait power from the charger?
If so then there is no limitation in output power and that might be whats causing the failing battery.
If there was a controller the power would start low, add up to around 1A and then lower it self to 700ma and so on when the percentage gets higher.
If theres just strait power it would just keep pumping no mather what the state of the charge is
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
2nd picture on the left for this one and 4th picture on the left for this one - is that the controller chip we're talking about?
So many people got their Max 3 already...Was hoping by now someone would try a receiver pad and post feedback
Related
Hi guys,
I have a simple MHL connector (ie splits into power & hdmi), to hookup the phone to the big screen. It looks pretty decent, but even when connected to mains, (which it must have otherwise hdmi doesnt work), it loses charge while playing video.
I have tried several players (dice / mx).. all play well, but phone cant keep up with charging & playing at same time..
Am doing some tests to see how bad it draws. When I go into system details, phone shows it is charging via mains.. but it appears it cant put out enough current to charge and play..
Would make a LOT of sense to me that the LCD screen (which draws about 70% of the power) actually switched off during playback via HDMI.
anyone know if this is possible or if they can charge & play a video at the same time..
I seem to be losing about 1% battery every 2 mins.
Can someone else test so i can know if It is just a dodgy MHL I have or if they are all like this. Have tried both SD & HD video.. all quite similar results.
be aware
Use the original charger or one with 5v 1a otherwise your phone won't get enough power for example I know a BlackBerry charger has a lower output
Crabitpig said:
Use the original charger or one with 5v 1a otherwise your phone won't get enough power for example I know a BlackBerry charger has a lower output
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This was with the original charger unfortunately.
This is the same issue why I wrote that One X is unusable for in-car navigation. Basicaly what happens when under load (navigation, playing a movie, playing a game) is that battery gets into "Overheat" state (you can see this in OS Monitor for example) and stops charging.
My test for car navigation shows that power is drained by 25%/hour when plugged in and Sygic is running. Battery is in overheat state most of the time. This happens at about 50 deg.C if I remember correctly - this looks a little low so maybe they'll tweak it a little, but it doesn't solve the underlying problem really, just delays it...
So I blame crappy heatsink construction or overral internal design, this should not happen under any circumstances (and my iPhone is a marvellous example that it can be done - it is able to navigate and charge at the same time, and gets into overheat only when car ventilation is turned off and sun is shining on its' black body - my One X is white and overheats no matter what I do).
This will sooner or later be the reason why people will start returning their phones en masse...
Get 2 amps charger from eBay, see if it helps. I do have one, but only use it when I really need a quick charge in very shor time. Not advised to use as primary charger, but for powering both: phone and MHL at the same time, it might just do the trick.
schriss said:
Get 2 amps charger from eBay, see if it helps. I do have one, but only use it when I really need a quick charge in very shor time. Not advised to use as primary charger, but for powering both: phone and MHL at the same time, it might just do the trick.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried this, doesn't work. The problem is not insufficient current, it's overheating.
schriss said:
Get 2 amps charger from eBay, see if it helps. I do have one, but only use it when I really need a quick charge in very shor time. Not advised to use as primary charger, but for powering both: phone and MHL at the same time, it might just do the trick.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
zvieratko said:
I tried this, doesn't work. The problem is not insufficient current, it's overheating.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
2a won't work as the phone is limited to 1a
If the battery temp is 48 or over it goes in to overheat state green and red notification.
If you are rooted you could disable two cores see if that helps.
Sent from my HTC One X using xda premium
This same issue came up in the Nexus forums a while back. Evidently, AC charging requires that the USB data lines to be either shorted or have a resistor across them (forget which one). Since MHL is using those USB data lines for video, they cannot be used to signal AC charging capability, so you're stuck with the max USB draw of 500ma. That's way less than the amount of juice you're using, so you end up running the battery down. You should be able to confirm that by noting the charging mode displayed while using MHL.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using xda premium
So i got an MHL cable to connect my 1X to my tv to play snes games with a bluetooth controller
It works fine, plus it looks great... BUT!
The phone says it's charging.. little red light, battery info says charging, but it looses charge as i use it.
Just finished playing a snes emulator for 30 mins. I had the phone in airplane mode, plus the screen brightness on the lowest setting.
After 30 mins it went from 85% to 72%!! plus it was really warn/hot.
Is this normal? Is it because the screen is still on on the 1X?
Does the media link thingy work better? does the screen turn off on the phone when using that?
Anyone else got an MHL cable? does your phone loose charge while using it?
Under heavy use, charging in USB mode (500mA limit) will usually still see the battery level decrease. Are you putting the auxiliary charger off a USB out from your TV/console? If so this will be the case.
I have only given my MHL adapter a quick try. Not really used it in anger yet. Can't say for sure what would happen if you used a wall charger instead of a USB one. No doubt the charge wouldn't drop, but would want to keep a very close eye on the temperature!
Are you rooted?
i think the mhl adapters (mine at least) has a maximum output, to the phone, of 500ma.
This means even if you plugin a wall charger @ 1A, then it will still only provide the phone 500ma of power max.
The rest of the power goes to actually powering the cable itself, in order to get the picture on the tv.
the reason it drains, is because the consumption of the screen/cpu is greater than the 500ma of power that the mhl adapter is providing.
Thanks for the reply.
My phone is not rooted. It's just a standard out of the box 1X.
Also, when using the MHL cable the phone was plugged into the mains charger & was still loosing charge! plus it was very warm..
Maybe i'll try to find some info about those charging dock/cradle things with the HDMI out. Maybe that be better???
lawrence750 said:
i think the mhl adapters (mine at least) has a maximum output, to the phone, of 500ma.
This means even if you plugin a wall charger @ 1A, then it will still only provide the phone 500ma of power max.
The rest of the power goes to actually powering the cable itself, in order to get the picture on the tv.
the reason it drains, is because the consumption of the screen/cpu is greater than the 500ma of power that the mhl adapter is providing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah, ok.. that makes sense really.
I did think maybe there was more power being used than coming in... shame you can't turn the screen off on the 1X.
I think you have already done the sensible thing of trying airplane mode and min screen brightness. If it still heats up doing that on USB charging, then it's unlikely a different dock/adapter would see a reduction in drain & heat. I'd save your money there.
I only asked about root in case you could try Core Control to reduce heating, but never mind there.
Only thing I found that kept my phone cool when charging under heavy use (before I rooted it), was making sure I took the case off and I rest it on a granite drinks coaster I have! Draws the heat out of the phone very efficiently!
Recently bought a camping lantern that runs on a built in 6v 4.5 AH lead acid battery. It also has a USB connector which is for charging cell phones. I initially thought that the USB would be giving off a safe 5v but on testing it turns out that it is 6 volts straight from the battery.
Is this safe to use occasionally while camping? Will that extra 1 volt kill the battery or is there some mechanism inside the phone to regulate that voltage to a safe level?
Good question....hope someone has the answer for you.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda app-developers app
executionist said:
Recently bought a camping lantern that runs on a built in 6v 4.5 AH lead acid battery. It also has a USB connector which is for charging cell phones. I initially thought that the USB would be giving off a safe 5v but on testing it turns out that it is 6 volts straight from the battery.
Is this safe to use occasionally while camping? Will that extra 1 volt kill the battery or is there some mechanism inside the phone to regulate that voltage to a safe level?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course there should be.You get more than 6v in a power socket around the house.
Gkikas said:
Of course there should be.You get more than 6v in a power socket around the house.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No one plugs their phone directly to the wall socket :/ Thats what the charger is for, it only gives 5v to the phone. Just need to know if it can regulate that 6v to a safe level.
*edit. I think no one here would know about the hardware aspects of a phone. Can someone point me to a forum or anywhere where they may know the answer to a question like this?
May I asked how you measured this?
I'd love to check what output my 12v chargers are outputting
TieNN89 said:
May I asked how you measured this?
I'd love to check what output my 12v chargers are outputting
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A multimeter and a stripped usb cable
executionist said:
A multimeter and a stripped usb cable
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ah yeah
My brain has already flicked off for the day LOL
if you use IRC, try the freenode server in the ##electronics channel. they should help you out there. pretty nice ppl in general there.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda app-developers app
?
I'm interested as well. Will 6 volts @ 500mAh fry the phone?
Ok, I am an electronic engineer so a few comments.
I have no idea what kind of charging circuit is in our phones, could probably look it up but ..... in my opinion only 10% above 5V is to be considered safe.
Now you are talking about a 6V battery. That battery is not always 6V. A nice example is the 12V battery in your car which is 12.8V when fully charged. Another example are the cells inside our phones which have a nominal Voltage of 3.7V but are charged to 4.2V.
The Voltage they put on those things is the nominal Voltage.
I would check if there is no electronic circuit in that lamp since I would not connect anything directly to a battery at all.
If you go camping I would check this thing coolook pb-2000. Insert 4 x 18650 batts and you can do a couple of recharges. Very good box for the price and you can salvage 18650 from broken laptop batt packs ... but google and youtube a bit before you do that to make sure you do it the right way.
I'm also interested, any news?
You can see the specs of this type of batteries here. The 6V is nominal, as already mentioned above. The maximum noted is 6.9V and TBH, i would be rather reluctant to test is my SGS3 charging circuit likes the idea of being fed with 40% higher voltage than usual.
Are you sure there is nothing in the lantern that would limit the voltage under load? Could be something as simple as 2 diodes in series, in this case measuring the voltage on the open circuit, totally unloaded, with a DMM that barely draws microamps from it, would show the battery voltage. Try drawing some current from it (use a resistor, a USB LED lamp, etc) while measuring. I seriously doubt a self-respecting vendor would setup a USB port on that thing that would potentially output 40% more than specs, really.
PS: if the port is, indeed, fed straight from that battery, i would rather avoid hooking my SGS3 to it. Even though, it would probably survive.
---------- Post added at 07:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:59 PM ----------
lukesan said:
I have no idea what kind of charging circuit is in our phones...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
MAX77686. Good luck finding the datasheet. And good luck trying to guess if there is anything else potentially fed straight from the USB connector. The bottom line is - i wouldn't dare
Solder this to red wire https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zener_diode
OFC you need 5V model
GR0S said:
Solder this to red wire https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zener_diode
OFC you need 5V model
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not if it doesn't have a resistor in series. And wait. if the battery is at 6.8 Volt and you have a 5.1 Volt zener and it is charging at 1 Amp so you will need a power resistor. You will have a lot of loss of energy because it will go away in heat.
You could use a dc-dc convertor but believe me forget about it and get one of those charging banks where you can put in your own cells.
lukesan said:
Not if it doesn't have a resistor in series. And wait. if the battery is at 6.8 Volt and you have a 5.1 Volt zener and it is charging at 1 Amp so you will need a power resistor. You will have a lot of loss of energy because it will go away in heat.
You could use a dc-dc convertor but believe me forget about it and get one of those charging banks where you can put in your own cells.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure about how practical it would be to be cutting usb cables and wiring zener diodes just to use this lamp....
I think I had a charger that supplied too much voltage (I'm not positive I didn't measure the voltage output or anything), but I can say that the phone did not like it. It would eventually charge somewhat, but the touch screen wouldn't work and would go bezerk if touched lol.
Again I'm not sure how much V it supplied, but I would assume it was more than 6V. It didn't really damage the phones either, I would try it.
Here's your answer, definitively:
6v at the source (the lantern in this case) will probably be 5v or less at the phone because of the resistance in the USB cable itself. The longer the cable is the higher the resistance will be and thus the more voltage you lose to it. Also, the cheaper the cable (the thinner the wires) the more voltage you will lose per foot.
Here's some specs you can plug into THIS VOLTAGE CALCULATOR:
The USB definition specifies up to 5.3v.
Most USB cables will use 30awg wire or maybe 28awg for the better ones.
Depending on which of the sources I've read, some USB cables/chargers use one pair of wires for charging, and some will use two pairs. You can see that using two pairs of conductors drastically improves the voltage transmission but even still, at 28awg over a 6foot cable you're still losing .75v which puts you at 5.25v and well within the USB spec.
So the lantern is fine to use with your phone with your average 6-foot USB cord.
If you're like me and prefer 10-15 foot USB cords in some places you would actually benefit from a 6v or even 7v power supply at the wall. I've found that even on the OEM Samsung wall charger, when I use a 10-foot cable I don't get enough juice to actually charge my S4. With the screen on the battery charge level still drops. The Galaxy Charge Rate app shows something like 500ma charge rate and that's because there's not enough voltage / too much voltage-drop across the long cable. (Radio Shack sells a modular, adjustable voltage wall-wart power supply as well as USB and micro-USB adapters for it. I'm starting to experiment with it and the long cables.)
USB voltage vs charging current
This is an old thread, but I can confirm that my moto G charges at 6v. Apparently the original Motorola charger outputs 5.75v. I hooked up a variable power supply to my phone. The data lines are shorted together to indicate a high current power source is present. The moto G will test load the power supply before settling on a stable charging current. One that does not cause the voltage to sag excessively. When I applied 5v the charging current was approximately 600 mA. At 6v the charging current was approx 1200 mA. The charging current was measured directly on the phone using an app called ampere.
So I conclude that Motorola use this tactic to ensure their phones charge fastest with their chargers. On the up side, its fun watching my phone go from 40% to 100% in 45 minutes
The charging port on my Nexus 7 2013 starting playing up and only charging when the cable was held in certain positions and then finally it stopped working altogether.
I took it apart to replace the port and the problem was that the legs on the connector had actually lifted the tracks off the board.
I replaced the connector and wired the legs to the nearby pads the tracks I believe they're supposed to go to and when plugged in both the charging symbol appeared and usb data communications worked.
However I then had a slight mishap while handling it and managed to knock off and break the component pointed to by the arrow in the photo.
The component has no markings on it and is about 2mm x 1mm. I can't measure the original with a meter as it's physically broken.
Can anyone tell me what the component is so that I can replace it?
I meant to also add that while looking for info I came across this site regarding the port repair which some people may find useful although personally I think you're better of removing the sub board and then using a proper desolder station if you have access to one.
http://freemansgarage.com/blog/?p=1082
Ollie2 said:
what the component is so that I can replace it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This component has a sub-ohm resistance and is a fusible resistor or choke/inductor. Either way you can just short/bridge it - no worries
k23m said:
This component has a sub-ohm resistance and is a fusible resistor or choke/inductor. Either way you can just short/bridge it - no worries
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much for the reply, that's just the kind of answer I was hoping for.
With the link bridged the device does show it as charging when plugged in however the charging rate is now really, really slow and at it's current rate of charge looks like it'll take about 50 hours to fully charge.
If I put an ammeter across the two pads then it looks like it pulls about 85ma whereas I'd expect it to be more like 10 times that.
I've tested it with several cables and chargers (0.5A, 1A and 2A) that used to work perfectly with it previously and still work with other devices..
I've ordered an inline usb ammeter that should arrive later today to double check the current usage but the charger or battery don't get warm so I'd guess it's correct.
The repaired tracks look to be correct and beep through fine, the data cable works and I can transfer data but presumably there is something else wrong with it.
Any suggestions of what else to look or is there anything that I need to do with software to reset the charging process?
Ollie2 said:
If I put an ammeter across the two pads then it looks like it pulls about 85ma whereas I'd expect it to be more like 10 times that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The ammeter's internal resistance may trigger N7's lower charging current draw which normally happens to prevent overloading USB2 or weak chargers.
Anyway, do a recalibration:
fully discharge N7
recharge it completely while off
disconnect the charger and turn N7 on
Thanks for the reply.
I added the ammeter inline as it was charging so slowly and the 85ma it looks to pull roughly equates to the charging times I'm seeing.
The tablet is fully charged at the moment (via a wireless charger) but when it's not needed for a few days I'll flatten the battery and let it charge using the cable, I'd guess it'll take 2-3 days to do so.
Interestingly apps such as ampere show the sort of current I'd expect the device to be getting in the 800ma range however I'm guessing it's calculating this as the requested current but it's just not making it to the battery for some reason.
Hi there everyone,
I have been trying to get my Nexus 7 2013 installed into my car seamlessly without problems since December 2015. I have Timur's Kernel v4 (6.0.1) running on it, and it was working flawlessly.
However, I decided that the no battery mod needed to be done as I just could not leave that battery inside a hot car - way too risky.
So, I did the Kevdav no battery mod - with success.
However, once the battery connection was receiving 5v via a usb car charger the OTG cable connected to the tablet's mini usb port would not wake/suspend the tablet properly. It would wake it up, but once it was awake the little battery icon at the top would forever show that it was 'charging' and once power was cut to the otg y cable / mini usb, it would not suspend (would still show as charging).
I did research, and bought a Drok DC-DC step down converter. I lowered the voltage to the battery mod connection to 3.7v (and tested up to 4.7v) and this alleviated the problem of suspend/wake. I think since the original battery gave out less voltage then the otg/charging connection, this needed to be replicated in order for the otg to work.
However, I now have a new problem that I cannot seem to fix. This problem only seems to happen in the car and does not occur when testing it in the house using normal wall chargers.
For clarity, this is how everything is wired up in the car.
Nexus 7 battery mod side of things:
Nexus 7 battery terminals > 22awg usb cable > drok dc dc step down power supply (this board has a female usb port for output) set at 3.7v (tested up to 4.7v) > input is connected to car's constant 12v connected directly to battery on a fused wire.
Nexus 7 mini usb port side of things:
Nexus 7 mini usb port > usb otg y cable > mini usb cable > 2.4a usb car cig adapter hardwired to car's switched 12v accessory wire.
The link to the drok dc dc step down is this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01FDBY66Y/ref=twister_B01GO268W6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I turn on acc ignition to send power to the otg connection. It'll power up. However, if left in standby overnight the tablet won't power up. If I physically press the tablet's power button it'll wake up, show the wake up animation, and react as normal (including any subsequent power downs). However, if I don't press the power button and I turn off the ign again, an icon on my car's instrument cluster will be faintly illuminated - this is odd behaviour and should be completely out. When this is the case, if I get out and try to lock the car the remote central locking doesn't work.
This light will go out if I physically disconnect the otg y cable from the tablet, and low and behold the remote central locking works.
I'm no expert on electronics and such, but it seems to me that power may be flooding back into the OTG connection from the no battery mod power?
Does this make sense? Sorry for the long question, but I was wondering if anyone had any experience with troubleshooting or any advice? I've this one problem and then I'm set but I just can't seem to figure anything out and need someone's advice who is in the know rather than take wild stabs in the dark using my own logic because if I do the latter, not only will I waste money on needless components but I'll more than likely break something. I've read stuff about diodes or something in order to regulate power flow but I'm not even sure I'm using the correct terminology here so if anyone can tell me I'm onto something here or I'm talking complete nonsense then anything is appreciated!
I did search these forums and google but I really cannot find anything that is similar to my problem.
Thanks for any input guys, whether it be any tips on what I'm missing or what I need to change (software or hardware, electrical, etc) - it's all very much appreciated.
Antony
Edit: so sorry I think I posted this is the wrong n7 2013 sub section. I can't delete the post but if a mod could please kindly move it to the relevant forum I'd appreciate it. Thanks!
antc101 said:
it seems to me that power may be flooding back into the OTG connection from the no battery mod power?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, indeed, and your "2.4a usb car cig adapter hardwired to car's switched 12v accessory wire" requires a small mod to prevent the power feedback. It needs an extra 1A+ diode connected directly to 12V input. You could modify the adapter's PCB or simply replace the fuse's internal wire with a diode where its cathode goes to the spring and its anode to 12V input. Or just place the diode somewhere along the adapter's hardwire. $0.16 1N4001 is good enough ([email protected] is OK for [email protected]).
Not sure if thread is still active but I also have the same symptom with tablet turning off completely overnight. I am running constant 12v to 3.7v dc to dc on battery input and car adapter 12v to 5v on microusb cable in. Tablet will work fine with on and off but after car is shutdown for the night it will not turn on in the morning. It shows me battery charge icon only. I dont have diode installed either. Not sure if thats the cause. Anyone know why it would completly shutdown overnight?
Neo2020Marz said:
Not sure if thread is still active but I also have the same symptom with tablet turning off completely overnight. I am running constant 12v to 3.7v dc to dc on battery input and car adapter 12v to 5v on microusb cable in. Tablet will work fine with on and off but after car is shutdown for the night it will not turn on in the morning. It shows me battery charge icon only. I dont have diode installed either. Not sure if thats the cause. Anyone know why it would completly shutdown overnight?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi there,
Been a while since I posted on this thread but just wanted to update on what I have done so far.
Since my last post, I don't have any issues. I placed a diode as mentioned above on the +12v for the accessory power. This seemed to have fixed any back flow of power.
Concerning the power off over night, I'm pretty sure this was something to do with Timur's kernel. I forever had issues with that thing - eg, suspect and wake issues, accessories connected to my usb hub..
I switched to a stock version of android 6.0.1 - MOB30X if memory serves... and installed Elemental X version 5.16. No issues with this setup what so ever.
Huh.
I run my Nexus 7 on my car with the battery, mounted just above the dashboard, with direct sunlight exposition and no UV film on the windshield. It's been a whole year without issues, thank God.
https://i.imgur.com/cPNhDDc.jpg
I live in the Northeast of Brazil, where's 30C to 40C through the year. Sometimes I come up to the car and the tablet shut off due to the heat.
Battery still lasts wonders and there's no signs of damage.. yet.
Is it really adamant to remove the battery, or is it just a precautionary measure?
GTMoraes said:
Huh.
I run my Nexus 7 on my car with the battery, mounted just above the dashboard, with direct sunlight exposition and no UV film on the windshield. It's been a whole year without issues, thank God.
https://i.imgur.com/cPNhDDc.jpg
I live in the Northeast of Brazil, where's 30C to 40C through the year. Sometimes I come up to the car and the tablet shut off due to the heat.
Battery still lasts wonders and there's no signs of damage.. yet.
Is it really adamant to remove the battery, or is it just a precautionary measure?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You better have more luck.
My nexus was put under the dash and was fine for around 3 years. And it became expanded in just 2 days, separating the screen and the case. So I have urgently remove the battery.