Related
I have an app (calorie counter) that keeps showing a notification there is an update. I don't want to update it because the new permissions seem intrusive (allowing hardware controls - take picture and video).
Does anyone know how I can disable getting a notification about the update?
Cheers,
Open Google play, go to settings and uncheck " notifications" option.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using xda premium
That will turn off notifications for all apps though, which I'd rather not do.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Gucci.Nexus said:
That will turn off notifications for all apps though, which I'd rather not do.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could use titanium backup to disassociate the app with the Google Play store. I've personally never done it myself, but I think this is the solution you're looking for
Sent from my HTC One XL using xda premium
Gucci.Nexus said:
That will turn off notifications for all apps though, which I'd rather not do.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can also specify it on a per app basis. Just open the app in Google play and uncheck the checkbox.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Petrovski80 said:
You can also specify it on a per app basis. Just open the app in Google play and uncheck the checkbox.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, you can't
The only check box is for Automatic Updates, not update notifications.
Go to settings, apps, select the app, uncheck notifications.
Solution by using ZipSigner 2
I just came across a solution (android.stackexchange.com/a/25527)
If you've got root access and have the original apk of the version you want to keep at hand (via Titanium backup or copied out of your \data\app folder), you can use ZipSigner 2 to give that apk a different key (auto-testkey).
When you install the apk with its new key, the Play Store will not recognize the installed app and will therefore not try to search or push any updates. :good:
ZipSigner 2 is available for free in the Play Store: play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=kellinwood.zipsigner2
If you have root, you can simply use ti backup to detach an app from the market.
It was assumed op doesn't have root though.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Petrovski80 said:
If you have root, you can simply use ti backup to detach an app from the market.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It was my understanding that detaching an app in Titanium does not work anymore since an update from Google Play has more checks on the server side.
http://www.titaniumtrack.com/changelog/titanium-backup/4-8-4-1
Djezpur said:
I just came across a solution (android.stackexchange.com/a/25527)
If you've got root access and have the original apk of the version you want to keep at hand (via Titanium backup or copied out of your \data\app folder), you can use ZipSigner 2 to give that apk a different key (auto-testkey).
When you install the apk with its new key, the Play Store will not recognize the installed app and will therefore not try to search or push any updates. :good:
ZipSigner 2 is available for free in the Play Store: play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=kellinwood.zipsigner2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for this. What a quick and easy solution. Now I can keep the old Foursquare without getting it automatically updated to that new version.
Please note: ZipSigner 2 does not require root!
The solution probably still works. Thanks for the hint!
Now I did test it.
1. Use App Backup and Restore to save the apk
2. Use Zipsigner to give the apk a different autokey
3. Uninstall original app
4. Install the apk modified by Zipsigner, you may need some file manager like TotalCommander for this
It is all possible without root and works well
Gucci.Nexus said:
I have an app (calorie counter) that keeps showing a notification there is an update. I don't want to update it because the new permissions seem intrusive (allowing hardware controls - take picture and video).
Does anyone know how I can disable getting a notification about the update?
Cheers,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know this is an old thread. And I understand that Ti Backup used to work for detaching an app from Play Store. But I also understand that this works no longer. For those who are interested, I have created an app that does a pretty good job of this. It is called Hide Updates In Play Store. There is a video showing the app at work. It does require a rooted device. Thanks
Let me summarize:
- it costs money
- it needs root
- it needs an additional app
- the solution may not persist if you uninstall the controlling app
All these disadvantages can be avoided by reading just one posting higher ...
tag68 said:
Let me summarize:
- it costs money
- it needs root
- it needs an additional app
- the solution may not persist if you uninstall the controlling app
All these disadvantages can be avoided by reading just one posting higher ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are, of course, correct in the disadvantages. But the above method has its own limitations:
1) I wonder how/if it will work with system apps unless you have root. For instance, I actually wanted to get rid of updates to Google Search since later versions hose-up Utter.
2) It is something of a pain to "undo" since you will loose any settings or data (unless you are VERY CAREFUL) related to the app when you uninstall the "fake-signed" app and re-install the "real" app. Of course, this would also happen during the install of the "fake-signed" app in the first place. In some cases, this may be trivial but in others, it may not. And App Backup/Restore - which I use - fine app - only processes the .apk file.
3) It requires a minimum 2 apps be installed.
4) It isn't terribly easy to do. Developers would likely be able/willing to handle this - or even know what signing is or what to do. But how about others? The first one would be hardest for sure.
Like my solution, it also seems not likely to work with paid apps or apps having in-app purchases. I am not 100% sure, but would guess that the re-signing will mess up most Play Store license checking. Indeed, App Backup/Restore handles these differently and with far less functionality.
Still, for someone who is willing to do it and for those lacking root, the solution suggested above seems like it will work and those who are rooted can certainly save that $1 which can be used to make a one-time purchase of maybe 1/2 cup of coffee at the nearest Starbucks
Cheers!
David, if you would have mentioned the possibility of resigning in the description of your app, maybe even give the manual how to do without your app, I'd much more be willing to believe and support you.
Without that hint it has a little smell of betraying for me, not showing people who do not know better or do not have root that there are cost-free alternatives. But probably I have just to admit that you seem to be good at selling. I usually don't like people who are good at selling.
tag68 said:
David, if you would have mentioned the possibility of resigning in the description of your app, maybe even give the manual how to do without your app, I'd much more be willing to believe and support you.
Without that hint it has a little smell of betraying for me, not showing people who do not know better or do not have root that there are cost-free alternatives. But probably I have just to admit that you seem to be good at selling. I usually don't like people who are good at selling.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First, I developed and posted my app on Play Store before I even saw this forum thread with its reference to resigning apps. So I was not aware at the time.
Second, I still have not even tried to confirm that the re-signing approach will work (although I can see that it might). I will take the word of the person who posted this technique that it does indeed work. But I now have a solution that I like and use. So I have no real need to find and test other solutions.
Third, there are often many possible solutions to a given problem. In fact, my original approach to this particular problem was done via Tasker and shell scripts. It worked but was not particularly user friendly. I tried to remedy that in my app. It seems you are saying that a person (me) choosing to implement one possible solution must also run down, verify, and advertise all other approaches. If so, I think that is a bit ridiculous and would appreciate a list of examples of app authors who are doing this who you do "believe and support." I do not think it is very common.
Fourth, I found this thread via a google search. I think it is fair to believe others will as well if they are seeking alternative approaches. So they too can learn about the resigning approach and decide for themselves how to proceed. I never claimed (here on in my app) that mine is the only approach. I never say it is the "best" approach. I do not denigrate proponents of other approaches. I only implemented one approach that seemed reasonable to me. I posted here so others who suffer from this weakness in Play Store can, if they wish, can check it out for themselves. Play Store gives buyers 2 hours or so to test the solution and decide if it works for them. If not, they are free to return the app and cancel the sale and charge.
Fifth, if you check my list of apps on Play Store, you will see that they are all very small apps and all are either free or very low cost. All of these apps were the result of my trying to resolve situations that I found personally irritating. I then thought that maybe others would find them useful as well. If you look at the number of installs for all of my apps combined, I think you will find that I am NOT at all good at "selling". Indeed, if the net proceeds from all of my paid apps combined exceeded much more than $300 total it would be a miracle. With programming, testing, and support time this likely works out to be maybe $0.10 per hour. I figure the market for this app will be no larger than my previous apps and at $1 per sale, it will be a while before I can use the proceeds to buy even a six pack of beer (especially after Google takes their cut). So I can hardly be considered a successful salesman. If only that were true! I do sell some of my apps. But truth be told I really do this, not for the money, but so I can show some revenue to the tax authorities so they permit me to write off some computer-related expenses.
I am sorry you feel "betrayed" by me somehow. And I am sorry that you have somehow decided that you don't like me for the rather limited reasons you have managed to list here. I really do not think I have given you or anyone else cause to reach such conclusions. It really makes me kind of sad. But you are entitled to your opinions and I will leave it at that as I walk away in wonder.
You admit that you googled where you could post ads for your app, did not even have a look what was last written in the thread and then sent your ad? In my opinion that IS Spam, nothing else ...
So thank you for the offer, and for staying away from this thread in future. For everyone who needs a good working solution free of cost and less use of resources but with a bit more manual handling of apk-files, have a look at posting #13 of this thread.
Djezpur said:
I just came across a solution (android.stackexchange.com/a/25527)
If you've got root access and have the original apk of the version you want to keep at hand (via Titanium backup or copied out of your \data\app folder), you can use ZipSigner 2 to give that apk a different key (auto-testkey).
When you install the apk with its new key, the Play Store will not recognize the installed app and will therefore not try to search or push any updates. :good:
ZipSigner 2 is available for free in the Play Store: play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=kellinwood.zipsigner2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank-you! That worked like charm!!
This is guide made for Windows 8, but can be used with any version of Windows. The options might just vary a little.
**This guide is meant to provide a way to improve performance on your computer. This is in no way, shape, or form, a fool-proof method (although i tried to make it fool-proof). I will not be responsible for any damage done to your computer by using any of these tools in this thread.**
This guide will show you ways that I have found to optimize windows to get the most you can out of any computer. Some of these tools come with windows, while others I will provide links for your convenience.
To make some of this easier, i have created a '.bat' script for your use.
HDD – Hard Drive
Free up space: Using Windows Tools
This first tool comes with windows. It is the disk cleaner.
The easiest way to find this tool is to go to the start page and type in: “cleanmgr.exe” and click on that.
This takes a little while to sort through your hard drive. Here are the categories that I recommend cleaning:
Code:
[LIST]
[*]Downloaded Program Files
[*]Temporary Internet Files
[*]Recycle Bin
[*]System error memory dump files
[*]Temporary files
[*]Thumbnails
[*]Any of the user error reporting categories if you want
[/LIST]
There is the option to clean system files, which requires administrator privileges. Here are the additional categories that I recommend you clean:
Code:
[LIST]
[*]Previous Windows Installation(s)
[*]Windows Update cleanup
[/LIST]
Depending on how much data is going to be erased, this may take awhile. This tool also tends to use a lot of CPU
Free up space: Using CCleaner
This second tool is not part of windows, but is simple and easy to use. It is called CCleaner. This is a program that has a lot of options that are explained in the different sections (Registry)
- Link: CCleaner
For this category, you will be using the cleaner section which is opened by default when you open the program.
Everything that is checked, I recommend keeping checked. You may choose whatever you want though.
1st click analyze and let it sort through your HDD
It may pause and ask you if you want to force close Chrome or any other conflicting program. Go ahead and let it force close them.
2nd look at what it is going to remove a second time and make sure it’s all stuff that you don’t care about. After that, you may click clean.
There is a third tool that is under the “tools” section in CCleaner. It is the driver wiper.
When you go to this section, you will only wipe the free space on your HDD.
The 35 passes option is a little overkill. Feel free to choose what ever option you want though.
If you have an SSD, DO NOT do the 35 passes. this will only shorten the SSD's life. See more info regarding this in post #4
This could take many hours to complete so make sure you have time.
This also may not give you a whole lot of space, but it should give you some.
Make your disk load files faster:
The major thing that many people recommend to do often, is to defragment the HDD. For people with SSD's, this is not needed
This program is found by going to the start menu and typing in “defrag” in the settings section.
When this opens, click on your HDD, and then click on analyze. It will then scan your HDD and tell you the amount of your HDD is fragmented.
You then click on optimize and this process will take a while as it does about 13 passes over the HDD
Registry
*For this procedure, you will be using CCleaner again. For those who skipped the HDD section, link for this program is in that section.*
In CCleaner, click and on the registry section and then click: “scan for issues”
After it scans, you can take a look at what it has found before it removes them. You can also choose what to delete.
Click fix issues, and this is when it will ask to backup the registry. I HIGHLY recommend doing this.
It will then ask you one by one what you want to do with each entry. You also have the option to fix all issues with one click
Uninstalling programs
For uninstalling programs, the windows uninstaller does not do it for me. I use revo uninstaller
- Link: Revo Uninstaller
This program is pretty self-explanatory but it does more than just uninstalling the program. After the program is uninstalled revo will scan your HDD and your registry to find anything that it believes it left over from the program.
BEWARE: make sure you choose wisely what you delete. Revo does make a system restore point before it uninstalls the program, but this is not a fool-proof method.
**On windows 8, there is a small bug, as far as I know, that when scanning all of this, it will use a decent amount of your CPU.**
*If any of you have ideas on how I can make this guide better whether it is by adding methods, or just clarifying some of these directions as this is the first time that I have written a reference guide like this. Any help is greatly appreciated. :fingers-crossed:
Thanks:
Microsoft: for Windows
Piriform: for CCleaner
VSRevo Group: for Revo Uninstaller
BillP Studios: for WinPatrol (Next post)
GoodDayToDie: for giving some major tips.
Awidawad: letting me use his code as a guide
Tips:
GoodDayToDie: Post #4
SixSixSevenSeven: Post #5
Tips on how to make your computer start-up faster.
Programs start-up
Using task manager
In task manager, there are a ton of options that can be used to help performance. This is especially true with the new task manager that
Microsoft has pushed out with Windows 8.
For the majority of people, when you open up task manager, it will look like this:
To get the full format of task manager, which you will need for this process, you will need to click on the button at the bottom that says: “More Details” and it will open the full version of task manager.
Now to disable start-up programs:
At the top where all the tabs are, click on the “Start-up” tab and you should see something like this:
Now all you have to do is click on the process that you do not want starting with your computer, and click the “Disable” button. Here are some processes that I recommend but you can choose whatever you want.
Code:
[LIST]
[*]Adobe CS6 Service Manager
[*] Apple Push
[*] Bing Desktop Application
[*] Evernote Clipper
[*] Hamachi Client Application
[*] iTunesHelper
[*] KiesPDLR
[*]Logitech Download Assistant
[*]Quicktime Task
This is only what I have disabled. You may disable whatever you want because there are no system tasks that are there to disable.
**That does not meant that you can disable whatever you want because that might cause some programs to not work**
[*]Using WinPatrol
[/LIST]
This program does more than just control start-up programs. This section is only going to talk about the start-up section.
This section of the program, in essence, is a more advanced program to deal with start-up programs.
- Link: WinPatrol
After you install WinPatrol, go to the "Startup Programs" section. It should look like this:
Run through the list of programs and find ones you want to disable. My list of recommended programs is listed under the task manager section.
NOTE: If you do not know if what you are going to disable is going to effect any of your programs, then I would recommend using the "Disable" button. If you KNOW that it WON'T effect any program, then feel free to hit the "remove" button
This program does not only take care of start-up programs. There are many other features such as Active taks and IE Helpers that i will not be covering in this thread. I do however, recommend that you look at them.
Services:
Using Service Manager:
This is going to show you how to use the service manager that is built into Windows to disable some services form starting automatically with your computer. For this, you will not be disabling any services completely, but rather just have them set to manual which will allow them to run when needed.
Start by opening the start page and typing "services" into the settings section. you should end up with a screen that looks like this:
Click on "View Local Services"
Right-click on a service such as "Apple Mobile Device", click properties, and change the startup type from Auto, to Manual.
Choose other services and do the same.
WARNING: I highly advise you NOT to disable any system services as this could cause problems. I am at no fault for what you disable.
Tips from users:
GoodDayToDie said:
tip of my own: there's a bunch of Windows Services which are enabled by default because *somebody* might need them, but which are really unnecessary on most computers. Some good examples include the Bluetooth service (if you don't have or don't use Bluetooth), Encrypting File System (if you don't use EFS), Print Spooler (if you never print), and so on. These can be disabled from the Services management console (services.msc, or find Services using the Start search). I actually recommend just turning them from "Automatic" down to "Manual"; this way, if you ever do want to use such a thing, it's possible that it will still work when you try to invoke it. As with other tweaks, do bear in mind what you've changed and watch for any potential system problems; if you're unsure, either revert the change or don't make it in the first place. Changing certain system services will make the system nigh-unusable. Also, be aware that changing many of these services really won't help much; it might shave fractions of a second each off of the bootup time of the system and/or save a few megs of RAM, but an idle service really isn't that big a threat to system performance if it's not coded completely horribly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
SixSixSevenSeven said:
In almost a year on win7 I never had to manually invoke defrag, whenever I went to and analysed the disk it was only ever 1%, on the 80gb hard disk I had at the time its an insignificant amount of dragged data and I ignored it. I got windows 8 in November and so far it still says 0%.
I would recommend at least checking the values though, especially for external drives (my one hit 20%, think it was unplugged during windows scheduled defrags)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the_scotsman said:
Windows 8 knows if an SSD is being used. If it sees one, it won't allow you to "defrag". it will still allow you to "optimise" the drive. What this does is to manage TRIM to help clean the drives.
Look up TRIM if you want to know more. But do not disable the scheduled "optimisation" of an SSD drive as it's not a defrag, it does other things.
More info here: http://www.helpwithwindows.com/Windows8/Windows-8-on-Solid-State-Drive.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
One last one just in case
also if this is in the wrong section, can someone please let me know. Thanks :good:
this guide is also a work-in-progress and no where near complete. again, feel free to offer whatever advice you have
A couple things to point out here, quickly:
* Don't try to do a massive overwrite a la CCleaner if you have a SSD. It will do nothing except use up a small portion of the disk's lifetime. SSD logical sectors are dynamically mapped to physical NAND blocks by a wear-leveling algorithm; overwriting the same address on the "disk" 35 times probably just means burning one write operation (out of tens or hundreds of thousand each, mind you) on 35 different chunks of NAND memory. Trying to read the "erased" data back in after even a single overwrite is quite futile, though.
* Manual defragmentation shouldn't be necessary on Win7 or later, unless somebody has disabled or otherwise tampered with the automatically scheduled task that runs it in the background. If you never leave the computer on except when it's in active use, though, it might be necessary. Also, SSDs don't benefit from defragmentation in any meaningful way - the speed boost is completely trivial given the lack of seek times, but again it burns a bit of NAND lifetime - although Windows should be smart enough to figure this out on its own.
A tip of my own: there's a bunch of Windows Services which are enabled by default because *somebody* might need them, but which are really unnecessary on most computers. Some good examples include the Bluetooth service (if you don't have or don't use Bluetooth), Encrypting File System (if you don't use EFS), Print Spooler (if you never print), and so on. These can be disabled from the Services management console (services.msc, or find Services using the Start search). I actually recommend just turning them from "Automatic" down to "Manual"; this way, if you ever do want to use such a thing, it's possible that it will still work when you try to invoke it. As with other tweaks, do bear in mind what you've changed and watch for any potential system problems; if you're unsure, either revert the change or don't make it in the first place. Changing certain system services will make the system nigh-unusable. Also, be aware that changing many of these services really won't help much; it might shave fractions of a second each off of the bootup time of the system and/or save a few megs of RAM, but an idle service really isn't that big a threat to system performance if it's not coded completely horribly.
+1 on defrag. In almost a year on win7 I never had to manually invoke defrag, whenever I went to and analysed the disk it was only ever 1%, on the 80gb hard disk I had at the time its an insignificant amount of dragged data and I ignored it. I got windows 8 in November and so far it still says 0%.
I would recommend at least checking the values though, especially for external drives (my one hit 20%, think it was unplugged during windows scheduled defrags)
A note on freeing up space (which is a good idea!):
goldflame09 said:
I recommend that you use the “very complex overwrite "35 passes" option.
If you have an SSD, DO NOT do the 35 passes. this will only shorten the SSD's life. See more info regarding this in post #4
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
35 passes is also overkill on hard disks. Most government standards only require 1-3 passes. Just one pass is sufficient to prevent data recovery via software - there are probably only a handful of labs in the world which can recover data after this (by removing the platters from the drive and reading the bits off).
You also don't need to do this at all if you use bitlocker or truecrypt to encrypt the drive.
Updated: added service management to second post
Windows 8 knows if an SSD is being used. If it sees one, it won't allow you to "defrag". it will still allow you to "optimise" the drive. What this does is to manage TRIM to help clean the drives.
Look up TRIM if you want to know more. But do not disable the scheduled "optimisation" of an SSD drive as it's not a defrag, it does other things.
More info here: http://www.helpwithwindows.com/Windows8/Windows-8-on-Solid-State-Drive.html
the_scotsman said:
Windows 8 knows if an SSD is being used. If it sees one, it won't allow you to "defrag". it will still allow you to "optimise" the drive. What this does is to manage TRIM to help clean the drives.
Look up TRIM if you want to know more. But do not disable the scheduled "optimisation" of an SSD drive as it's not a defrag, it does other things.
More info here: http://www.helpwithwindows.com/Windows8/Windows-8-on-Solid-State-Drive.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Added to tips from users section
Sent from my Kindle Fire using Tapatalk 2
Updated: Added '.bat' script to make this as easy as possible for all of you
will be adding description soon for extras that i have included
There are various threads floating around for this and other devices stating "Apps safe to freeze...."
However I have yet to be able to find a good and comprehensive list of what apps relate to what apks.
I'm looking at doing my own custom rom, purely for my own use and want to make the decision whether I include an app (and therefore it's apk) or not, for me to make an informed choice I'd really quite like to be able to say......
OK That apk runs that app and that app is needed to do this this and this, however I never do any of those things.....but it's also needed as it support connectivity with that app so I should keep it (hopefully you get the point of the example). So a blind "Apps safe to freeze....." list, that doesn't even include the associated apks or information is pretty useless to me.
Anyone?
Please bear with me as I am not too tech savvy. So I have my FireTV rooted to get extra storage, using instructions from AFTVNews (sorry can't post a link). I have FolderMount installed and am attempting to move files around in there by using the “Create Pair” option; however, only XBMC has this capability. All my other apps are showing a file size of 0 with a “Folder is empty, already bound or does not exist” note where the file path should be. So this obviously prevents me from moving them around. I am wondering if I am even rooted at all, although I can see my USB. I have 2 FireTVs and it’s like this on both. Obviously I did something wrong, I just don’t know what. Any ideas? Or are there any other options? TIA
0ojoyo0 said:
Please bear with me as I am not too tech savvy. So I have my FireTV rooted to get extra storage, using instructions from AFTVNews (sorry can't post a link). I have FolderMount installed and am attempting to move files around in there by using the “Create Pair” option; however, only XBMC has this capability. All my other apps are showing a file size of 0 with a “Folder is empty, already bound or does not exist” note where the file path should be. So this obviously prevents me from moving them around. I am wondering if I am even rooted at all, although I can see my USB. I have 2 FireTVs and it’s like this on both. Obviously I did something wrong, I just don’t know what. Any ideas? Or are there any other options? TIA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are many options, Foldermount, Link2SD, etc., but after having used both of those, IMO the best option is jmandawg's method. Use the FireTV utility application to make setting it up easier.
AQKhanTheOne said:
There are many options, Foldermount, Link2SD, etc., but after having used both of those, IMO the best option is jmandawg's method. Use the FireTV utility application to make setting it up easier.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome, I'll look into that. Thanks for the quick reply.
Is there a good source to get all of the apps (including system apps) that come installed on stock firmware?
Just to name a few examples:
Galaxy Apps
GearVr apps (setup, shell, etc)
S health (and s health service)
Smart manager
And even facebookappmanager and facebooksystem
If no one knows a source, would anyone be willing to point me toward a way to extract those apps/files from the stock firmware (without flashing it)? If that's the only option, I'll upload the files to dropbox or afh and make a post so others have it.
Edit: this might be the wrong section, its hard to tell through the xda app. Lmk if i need to delete and repost elsewhere.
Could I ask what those "facebookappmanager and facebooksystem" are for?
yaibakt said:
Could I ask what those "facebookappmanager and facebooksystem" are for?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They might have other purposes, but both are essential to gearVR. Facebook app manager is used to install and update oculus apps and all the other gear vr stuff, instead of app installer. They might also play a role in installing camera modes/filters... they also might act as bloatware to improve the survivability of facebook background processes.