Hi,
We would like to use Sense Hat Raspberry Pi shield for our High Altitude Balloon mission. We were planning to use Sense Hat as outside temperature and pressure sensor, and an Arduino for internal temperature, measuring the temperature inside the casing. Hence we want to use it for outside temperature it should be outside the case, but the temperature is too cold for raspberry to be outside. So is there a way to connect in different ways rather than use pins, such as connecting cables to the pins or something else for expanding the connection to outside of casing?
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This is a pretty shotgun question, but how hard would it be to interface an external GPS module to a smart-phone? Let's say case-modifying aside/module taped to outside with wires leading in, so just hardware and software discussion.
The GPS modules I'm thinking of are like this:
http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8621
This particular module has Tx and Rx Pins and outputs to standard NMEA format.
I personally have an HTC Hermes/Tytn1, but I'd guess this'd be applicable for most phones.
Does anyone know what exact frequencies Sprint uses for Wimax ?
I made an external antenna port on my Evo, now it's time to make an external antenna itself
I'm seeing 2.5 GHz, I will look for continue to look for specifics
Wikipedia has a huge write up on WiMAX. I'm not sure the exact information your looking for, but under the technical information section, they pretty much give you everything.
Thank you
I know the theoretical range of Wimax, would be nice to know what frequencies people are seeing.
Does anyone know if in ##DATA#, Center Frequency is an actual freuqency phone uses to connect ? (Here are the values:* 2647000, 2657000, 2667000 I would assume it's 2.647Ghz/2.657Ghz/2.667Ghz) ?
However, if I go into ##33284# (FieldTrial / Wimax Engineering) it's* 2551500 for Center Frequency (after turning 4G Radio)
Anyone cares to share their ##DATA# and FieldTrial / Wimax Engineering ##33284# center frequencies ? I just want to see how much variation there is.
Its important to get as close to right frequency as possible when calculating segment length on antenna.
I am showing 2.525Ghz with the bandwidth of 10Mhz. What type of antenna are you going to use? I hope you have access to a Service Monitor to check the SWR of your antenna. How are you connecting the antenna to the phone?
Thank you for sharing kf2m
I am going to build omni-directional antenna based on this design (but from thicker cable)
_www.rason.org/Projects/collant/collant.htm
Unfortunately I do not have any equipment to check SWR.
As far as connecting an antenna to the phone, I've made a slight cut out on red cover where 4G antenna terminals are and attached small connector for center wire of coax cable to the terminals (I do not know about what to do with ground, but let's see if I get away without it). Black cover closes normally, without showing any modifications externally.
I will share results after the weekend, whether it's a success or fail
Sounds interesting. I haven't seen anything like this for the Evo. Please keep the thread updated, and if all works maybe a write-up?
~ I'm a fungi
arch111 said:
Thank you for sharing kf2m
I am going to build omni-directional antenna based on this design (but from thicker cable)
_www.rason.org/Projects/collant/collant.htm
Unfortunately I do not have any equipment to check SWR.
As far as connecting an antenna to the phone, I've made a slight cut out on red cover where 4G antenna terminals are and attached small connector for center wire of coax cable to the terminals (I do not know about what to do with ground, but let's see if I get away without it). Black cover closes normally, without showing any modifications externally.
I will share results after the weekend, whether it's a success or fail
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That antenna is gonna be hot with common mode RF (hence the BALUM's at the base). Plus it is designed for 2 Meter operation, WIMax is like 10-11cm. I would not recommend using that. It also uses RG58 COAX which is way too thick, using thicker COAX like RG8 is going to be way too thick (massive line losses). The coax used for our purposes is about as thick as 14-16 gauge wire, RG58 is about 1/4", and RG8 about 1/2" thick. By design our phones use a 1/4 wave dipole antenna built into the chassis/frame. My measurements might be off but a full wavelength antenna is about 2.75" so a dipole antenna mounted vertically would be more effective, and without the grounding/ground plane issue you would have with an omni. At higher frequencies your SWR would be even more critical. Too high and your output circuit is going to overload from RF feeding back, and either pop the final output, or let out the magic smoke. A WiFi antenna is a close match, and using a LC matching circuit would be a better choice (or you can cut it down since WiFi is at 2.4Ghz, and WIMax operates at 2.5Ghz). Again you are going to need some sort of measuring device to properly match your antenna. Also using an antenna without a ground-ground plane, or reflector your SWR is going to be off the charts. To receive it is not much of an issue, but once you start pushing RF down the wire then it's a whole new ballgame.
Check here for some ideas.. http://www.dxzone.com/catalog/Antennas/WiFi/
Hope I gave you a bit more information to work with.
Good Luck
73 de KF2M
With the new Pi just coming out and all the Pi spin offs or competitors, more powerful core hardware is more and more available.
So has anyone thought about building there own head unit?
Or even heavily modifying one of the cheaper chinese ones so you have the facades on the front?
I could see building a simple touch screen system would be fairly easy. But I must admit I want the knobs and buttons... Not to mention a CD drive for audio cds.
So how easy is it?
You can make a pretty decent "knobs and buttons" face plate from... well knobs and buttons and some 3D-printed or custom-made frame, or just recycle from a defective unit.
To start, draw a block scheme with the individual systems you need.
You could start from something like this:
Raspberry
Power level
Audio Amp level
Touchscreen + buttons
Peripherals (Bluetooth dongle, WiFi dongle, etc)
Steering wheel controls decoder
Cameras
OBD2 interface and decoder
Add or remove whatever your needs are.
Then check what components will be needed and what skills are required for said system (programming, soldering, etc).
You'll now have a price and you'll be able to see if you can actually do it with your current skills and resources.
If you want just an entertainment system, I suggest buying a product that does exactly that, because it will be way easier to setup and under some conditions, even cheaper.
If I took the time to build something like this, surely it won't be just for entertainment. I would do my best to connect most of my car to it, say climate control, seat and mirror positions, driver profiles, remote control, etc.
Over time, yes ill be adding more and more controls that interface with the car... Also i dont just want an entertainment system. i want to build and learn at the same time . but its also about customising the whole thing.
As for the face plate. I dont have a 3D printer.... yet, its on my list. (as a 3dartist its kind of a given really) But even if I could print my own stuff off it just wont be the same as a decent plastic moulded part. Thats why i was wondering if its possible to hack/destroy/remake from an existing cheaper model unit. like the very old wince units that use the same face plate as the more modern android units....
NutsyUK said:
Thats why i was wondering if its possible to hack/destroy/remake from an existing cheaper model unit. like the very old wince units that use the same face plate as the more modern android units....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why not, they all have mechanical switches that you can connect to whatever you want
what i meant was... The switches... in what way are they sending a signal are all the face plates the same in sending that signal?
That's different between manufacturers, but if it has electronics between the buttons and the actual player you can strip that part and add wires straight from the mechanical switches to your Raspberry or whatever you wish to use
I own a SEAT IBIZA car with Android Auto and Mirror-Link features.
I'm curious to know if there is a possible way to read some information Via CANBUS protocol like RPM, Speed, Oil temperature etc.
through the original USB plug and not from the OBD II.
Thanks in advance!
Chen_Gold said:
I own a SEAT IBIZA car with Android Auto and Mirror-Link features.
I'm curious to know if there is a possible way to read some information Via CANBUS protocol like RPM, Speed, Oil temperature etc.
through the original USB plug and not from the OBD II.
Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course there is! Not everyone uses those damned rigged* Autel DS708 scantools anymore (even though they have been the gold standard for years, the UI has always been such a......tool.) VAG makes a scanner (not a code reader) that has a USB adapter for some foreign and domestic higher end vehicles.
Just do a Web search for a diagnostic auto scanner with USB adapters, or for the cars with USB diagnostic ports (sometimes they hide diag ports under the hood, too) - I threw it into a Google search and the Seat Ibiza was just the first car I came up with, followed by several scanners with matching port adapters.
Not to sound like a heifer, but finding a tech who is savvy enough to be able to tell the difference between a 16-pin OBD2 port and a USB port is a boon in and of itself. You'd do well to find a well rounded tech with a some history in electronics (wave forms are a marvelous thing when applied to the dynamics of an internal combustion engine and it's components!)
Automotive technicians are a rapidly changing group of people, with those who can't make the cut quickly fall by the wayside, so just be politely persistent about your needs, and [eventually] you may run across someone who specializes [which can be costly] or someone who has enough general knowledge to put a scanner to good use.
Just don't pay a ton of money for the "service" of plugging a scanner in and reading codes or resetting your sun roof - dealerships escalate the costs tremendously, but with intelligent scanners running anywhere from several hundred to several thousand dollars, I'd look for a smaller shop or individual. For what some of the dealers/specialists charge to plug in a scanner you could buy your own scantool!!
All that said, check with your favorite garage and inquire about the make/model of their scanner. The techs who stay up to date may charge a bit more for diagnostics, but it makes the repair a LOT less expensive when they can pinpoint the issues right away, and most are quick to offer up their services to show off that shiny new gadget that can read the cars' minds.
Depending on where you are, I may be able to offer a connect through a tech in your area. They may or may not have a scanner or a friend who does, but I don't mind asking if you'd like.
Good luck!
CC~
EDITED TO ADD: *The Autel Maxidas DS708 is, and has been planned as a terminal application, neatly coinciding with the termination date of Wince 6.x. Want more info? Drop me a line.
Since I've purchased the Joying JY-UQD11N6G I have had nothing but problems with it. Such as:
The device will not power off or sleep when the ignition is switched off no matter the configuration.
The connected amp constantly remains on.
4G does not work with one of the suggested provider's SIM (T-Mobile). The SIM is recognized, works in other phones, but zero bars. Support has zero solution, and the solution in the blog does nothing.
A one pixel wide red line from top to bottom exists in the display. Support will not replace it.
These are just a few of the issues. So i've decided to scrap the board. I'm going to keep the display and the case and put either a Raspberry Pi 4 or a Radxa Rock 3a w/ 8GB of RAM in the case. I'll put a Hi-fi Berry hat or something similar on top for digital audio output and 5.1 signal processing to run to the amp. I could really use some help with the pinout of the UIS7862 40 pin display connector from the community. I can't find this or a schematic for the device anywhere. I'm not certain if this is just using the same protocols as the GPIO standard or if it's something custom.
Looking inside the display case one finds a board with a large 40 pin connector on the back. Its mipi dsi/csi to edp converter is the Lontium LT8911EXB chip, but the board has no part number on it, so again, I can find no schematics/manual. Both the LCD display connect to this via a 40-pin ribbon and 2-pin wire harness, and the capacitive touchscreen via a 6-pin ribbon. I've attached pics of the board and the PDF that has some info about the chip.
So I'm not sure if the display connector on the UIS7862 is an unconventional adaptation of a DSI 40-pin output or a GPIO interface, but whatever it is, it carries the display data, touch data, and power for both. If anyone has a schematic showing the pinout, the actual FYT manual from this year or the last few years, or any information about this display that would be appreciated!
Bump