Develop Bugs

Battery issues

Ok, this is just plain frustrating and I have no clue about what to do.
The lifetime on my phone is dropping ridiculously fast. I replaced the original batery (that used to get ran down pretty quickly, about half a day, without using the phone much) with a spare battery a friend gave me (it's from a different model, but a minor modification it fit perfectly. For a while, it worked somewhat more decently (although should I have used the phone, I'd lose about 1% for every 30-45 seconds of usage). But for a couple of days, it started wearing down a lot quicker as well.
For instance, just charging the phone and then leaving it without actually touching it on the desk will leave it at 88% battery life within about 30 minutes.
I've checked the processes to see if there's anything out of the ordinary, but everything seems fine. I'm thinking maybe the battery may have gotten damaged in the meantime since it wasn't the designated model for this phone, but I'm having serious doubts.
Also, I've ordered a new battery which should ship any day now. Hopefully it will solve the issue, although I'm considering getting a new phone.
Any ideas?
Also, the old Asus that I used to have (WM 6.0, standard keyboard) still has an amazing battery life, at least compared to the HTC (it can do about 3-4 days in standby, and 2 days with normal usage. Also, it's able to run for 12 hours while playing music and occasional web browsing. I can barely squeeze two hours of usage from my HTC)

mtranda said:
Ok, this is just plain frustrating and I have no clue about what to do.
The lifetime on my phone is dropping ridiculously fast. I replaced the original batery (that used to get ran down pretty quickly, about half a day, without using the phone much) with a spare battery a friend gave me (it's from a different model, but a minor modification it fit perfectly. For a while, it worked somewhat more decently (although should I have used the phone, I'd lose about 1% for every 30-45 seconds of usage). But for a couple of days, it started wearing down a lot quicker as well.
For instance, just charging the phone and then leaving it without actually touching it on the desk will leave it at 88% battery life within about 30 minutes.
I've checked the processes to see if there's anything out of the ordinary, but everything seems fine. I'm thinking maybe the battery may have gotten damaged in the meantime since it wasn't the designated model for this phone, but I'm having serious doubts.
Also, I've ordered a new battery which should ship any day now. Hopefully it will solve the issue, although I'm considering getting a new phone.
Any ideas?
Also, the old Asus that I used to have (WM 6.0, standard keyboard) still has an amazing battery life, at least compared to the HTC (it can do about 3-4 days in standby, and 2 days with normal usage. Also, it's able to run for 12 hours while playing music and occasional web browsing. I can barely squeeze two hours of usage from my HTC)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe you should get a new and proper battery to your device, maybe your fix does not work anymore. Also you can damage the excalibur motherboard if your messing with different volts from batteries design for other phones.

Well, the battery voltage is the same. So is the pin layout (well, that was pretty self implied). Both batteries are manufactured for HTC phones.
I guess I'll find out when my new battery arrives. However, my phone has been acting weirder and weirder. SD card issues, now the battery... And on top of that, I wonder if the two issues are related.
Edit: also, will the charger output make much of a difference? Say I use a 500 mA charger or a 1000 mA one.

Issue solved. Apparently it was from the SDHC patch I had installed a few days before. Removing the patch did not solve the issue (also, the patch disabled my WIFI) so I proceeded to reinstall WM on my phone. Now it runs fine, with regular battery drain.
I think the patch may have not allowed the CPU to enter idle mode. I can't think of any other explanation.

nah its definitely ur battery. i had the same problem, its that ur battert has degraded and it has become unable to withstand its charge. just call ur phone carrier and tell them. the should send u a free battery.
Source
-experience lol

mtranda said:
Well, the battery voltage is the same. So is the pin layout (well, that was pretty self implied). Both batteries are manufactured for HTC phones.
I guess I'll find out when my new battery arrives. However, my phone has been acting weirder and weirder. SD card issues, now the battery... And on top of that, I wonder if the two issues are related.
Edit: also, will the charger output make much of a difference? Say I use a 500 mA charger or a 1000 mA one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know some HTC batteries are the same voltage, but why do you think they make different ones especifically for every model eventhough they have the same voltage.
Just to let you know and regarding the output charger; I did a little experiment once, with motorola chargers (V3) since you can charge your dash with them but I tried to charge the exact phone (motorola) with the original HTC output charger.....and it didn't charge at all.
After months of using the motorola charger I started to realize my battery was not working well in my excalibur and in a period of 4 months my battery didn't hold a charge for more than 3 hours. I bought a new one and I strictly used the orginal HTC charger.
My battery is 9 months old now and works like charm (2 days + hours) with the latest ookba 3vo rom.

[Q] Battery Sensor issue ?

I have an issue on my HTC desire as the battery gives me constant values:
- battery voltage: 3923 mV
- battery temperature: 24.3 deg Celsius
- Current:
* either constant to 8mA (after a full charge the current says 8mA for some hours if phone is in standby)
* or constant to 44mA (whatever I do, playing games, browsing, watching movies..., or doing nothing)
Those values can be obtained with the secret menu (*#*#4636#*#*), using the apps "Battery Monitor widget" and CurrentWidget, or from kernel logs (cat /proc/kmsg in terminal emulator).
Apart from that my phone behavior seems to be normal, and the power consumption seems ok.
For some it might not be a big issue but, as I am trying some ROMs and different kernels, I would like to get the real current used (in mA) in order to really test the power consumption.
I did already did some tests to understand where the issue come from:
- full wipe (cache, data, dalvik) to get a clean ROM
- try a different battery (battery reference are both 35H00132-06M)
- change ROM and kernel
but I always get the same values !
That's why I suspect the issue to come from the battery sensor.
Now here come my questions:
1- Did any of you already had such an issue ?
2- Is the Battery Current sensor and Temperature sensor are the same one ?
3- Where are located those sensors ? In the phone or the battery ?
4- Do you think this wrong values could lead to strange phone behavior or damage the battery ?
Thanks for reading this boring post and even more thanks if you have some answers !

If the battery is being used in the same way as another battery then the results will be the same. If your getting 44mA from using your phone then good. Power consumption is low. By turning the screen on and not doing anything, I get to about 120mA. To be honest, this just seems normal, nothing wrong here. Unless I am missing something everything is fine.

My problem is that every returned value is a constant, I don't see any changes in terms of current if my screen is off (even in airplane mode, nothing running) or if I play a game.
I still get the same current, voltage and temperature values. That's why I suspect the sensors not to work.
Now I would like to know where are located those sensors (in battery or in phone) and if this sensor issue could lead to potential problem... I suspect it could damage the battery.
Anyway thanks for your answer, regarding your 120mA with screen on is it a normal value ? how long does you phone lasts on a battery cycle using CM7 ?

Testing the sensor
mmh, my question does not seem to passionate lots of people
I have a new element, I installed the apps called z-DeviceTest and Temperature sensor is said to be not working.
Is there anyone who could try this app on his HTC desire and see if the problem comes from the app or from my phone.
Once again if someone could answer the following questions, it would be quite helpful for me:
Is the Battery Current sensor and Temperature sensor are the same one? and where are located those sensors ? In the phone or the battery ?

problem solved !
I went to the shop where I had bought phone and batteries and I made some tests together with the reseller using Battery Widget Monitor. It has been easy to find out that the issue was coming from the battery.
Actually I was unlucky, I had bought 2 defective batts ! Or at least the battery sensor was defective. The batteries seemed to work fine but because the sensor was broken I think that after some charge-discharge cycles the batteries might have been broken.
So in case you have such a problem, just try another battery.

....

prosciutboy said:
I went to the shop where I had bought phone and batteries and I made some tests together with the reseller using Battery Widget Monitor. It has been easy to find out that the issue was coming from the battery.
Actually I was unlucky, I had bought 2 defective batts ! Or at least the battery sensor was defective. The batteries seemed to work fine but because the sensor was broken I think that after some charge-discharge cycles the batteries might have been broken.
So in case you have such a problem, just try another battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
damn it, it happened to my battery as well.

I have experienced the same problem and reach similar conclusions.
More details are given on my blog 78michel.unblog.fr

Looking more in detail to this battery caracteristics, I am now anxious about one point:
You observed , and I confirm :the temperature is always at the same level.
Looking more deeply at safety IC for LI-Ion battery , it seems that the NTC which normaly gives the temperature of the battery has also a safety component which prevent from extra heating and fire.
If the temperature is constant , may be it is beacause the NTC have been replaced by a resitor. This means that there is no longer any safety system active!!!!!
I am trying to check this point.

I have the same problems as mentioned above. Always constant 3923 V and constant mA drain.
I have bought 3 batteries from different sources all have the same problems
2 batteries have the S/N 35H00132-06M and 1 with S/N 35H00132-01M
The only battery that is working is the one that was shipped with my phone.

htc desire
DirkStorck said:
I have the same problems as mentioned above. Always constant 3923 V and constant mA drain.
I have bought 3 batteries from different sources all have the same problems
2 batteries have the S/N 35H00132-06M and 1 with S/N 35H00132-01M
The only battery that is working is the one that was shipped with my phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i have the same problem with voltage indicator - 3923 mv even my phone is low on power or fully charged!
strange issue....
someone did find any answers till now?
i'm try'ing to change my rom from cm7 (7201) where i am now to another rom to see if problem persist.
i'll be back with some conclusions...soon!

I'm seeing the same issue with 2 bilitong gold batteries. Despite them claiming to be 1650mAh they test at little more than half that with jumps in the % left reported rather than a smooth reduction The batteries appear to be 'genuine' bilitong batteries as they arrived in the blt packaging and not just a battery with a lable.
They also only charge to 99% and the charge light stays orange when powered on although the charge light goes green when its switched off and charged
I would surmise that these effects are seen from batteries which are trying to hide what they actually are. aka the manufacturers disable, or more likely do not include the protection circuitry which
* reduces the cost of manufacture
* decreases the losses through the battery as there is less control electronics to power/incur resistance losses
* prevent reporting of what the battery state is and is doing hence indicate its true capacity.
this would also explain why some folk say that a battery melted/damaged their phones.

Unfortunatly there are a lot of 3rd party batteries for the Desire who have bugged electronics inside.
I tried several 3rd party batteries before ending up with an original HTC battery, that works fine.
It seems like all those companies just buy the same electronics, assemble it with the cells and case and put their name on it. (polar cells, andida, etc.). They maybe check the values once, and because they seem legit, they think it is ok.
Im afraid those electronics are a big intended fraud, because the output seems made up to not be perceived so easily...
Unfortunatly sellers and manufacturers seem dont really care about their broken products, because most people just buy them and dont check for sensors or dont give a ...
But I do see some serious risk here, as others pointed out before:
if the temperature reported is always 24°C , the device would not switch off loading when the battery starts overheating, like it would normally do. IMHO this could lead to serious damage to the battery, device and surrounding.
If you get one of those batteries, I strongly recommend to get your money back.

UncannyValley said:
Unfortunatly there are a lot of 3rd party batteries for the Desire who have bugged electronics inside.
I tried several 3rd party batteries before ending up with an original HTC battery, that works fine.
It seems like all those companies just buy the same electronics, assemble it with the cells and case and put their name on it. (polar cells, andida, etc.). They maybe check the values once, and because they seem legit, they think it is ok.
Im afraid those electronics are a big intended fraud, because the output seems made up to not be perceived so easily...
Unfortunatly sellers and manufacturers seem dont really care about their broken products, because most people just buy them and dont check for sensors or dont give a ...
But I do see some serious risk here, as others pointed out before:
if the temperature reported is always 24°C , the device would not switch off loading when the battery starts overheating, like it would normally do. IMHO this could lead to serious damage to the battery, device and surrounding.
If you get one of those batteries, I strongly recommend to get your money back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Agree fully, especially regarding the overheating, which also likely means the CE labeling is false or at least unjustified outside of any tested ones.
Temp reported at 24.x even when phone is hot.
Mv always reported at 3923
Claims 1650mAh (or anything from 1500mAh up to 3500mAh in other Chinese batteries) but shows between 2-3 times the power drain of a old original battery (@ about 1100-1200mAh of original 1400mAh) whether under load or in standby if battery power set to 1650 in monitor utility, which means they are probably only about 750mAh real capacity at best under normal load.
I see when searching that shenzhen Himax (presumably not to be confused with Himax tw) seems to make some bilitong brand batteries, but there does appear to be a separate shenzhen bilitong unit/factory in poison province China (shenzhen, Guangdong Province).
Its quite likely the companies are related, and they may well be the sources for many if not most of these crap batteries. Its notable that these 'branded' bilitongs despite their very pretty and professional looking packaging had nothing on them stating a capacity rating, so anything could be claimed.
Pretty packaging wrapping a turd..
Happy to revoke this view if I am given any verifiable evidence (preferably me testing) to do so.

Just testing a bxt (baixt) claimed 1600mAh blue coloured battery which seems OK at least. (NOTE - not the gold coloured bxt with ridiculous 2450mAh claims).
Voltage seems to be reported OK although temp is wildly inaccurate in the one I have.
Seems to be testing roughly 1000-1200mAh with low standbye drain
So seems very OK at the price
Note this is testing on my backup zte blade/san fransisco where the standard batteries are lower capacity than on the HTC desire:
(1250 vs 1400)

[Q] Terrible Battery Life - Hardware Fault?

I've had my new desire z about 2 weeks now, and am utterly dissapointed by a frankly dreadful battery life.
It's my second DZ, given the original was nicked, but (kicks self) wasn't insured, so was purchased from a supplier that shipped my phone from Hong Kong (I live in UK, and the new phone is an identical model, except for a slight difference in key layout - A2727 I think is model number)
The original phone would give me over two days life with very low use, which i considered to be fair for a decent smart phone.
The new phone barely gives me 10 hours with no use. I've done a couple of tests - unplugged it at 2am, but 8am it's at 30% or lower. This was done with all data connections turned off.
If i leave the new phone to go dead then that's it - it won't charge. The only way i've found to get juice back into the battery is to hold it in my old touch-pro 2 until it's charged enough to charge from the desire.
Last night was the clincher. I've gone out with some friends to the pub. I had a conversation over it, and checked my battery life - 42%. As a last dith effort i factory reset the phone at that point to rule out a mischevious app, and checked - 39%
Within 2 hours, and with no use at all that was down at 8%. In order to avoid the charge issue i cut my losses and turned it off at that point. Once home (oh, about 4 hours later maybe) I was unable to turn it back on. I then left it plugged in overnight, and was still unable to turn it on this morning until i'd done my cross-phone charging trick.
I'm now entirely convinced there's some form of hardware issue at fault here, so i'm wondering if anyone else has had the same problem with this phone before? I see lots of thread regarding poor battery life, but most seem to be solved by turning data off or some rouge app, neither of which are an issue in this case. Also, any hints for making my life easier when I phone HTC tomorrow? I've read elsewhere their support might not be all it should be.
Thanks in advance for any help! I've ready to pull my hair out as what is a fantastic phone otherwise has been completely ruined by this battery issue.

I think you should get a new battery to rule out that the battery itself isn't a problem. I had similar issues with my G1 a while back and it solved a lot of wierd, seemingly unrelated problems. Batteries are pretty cheap online, $15 or so and some are free shipping.
The way that I figured out my battery was toast was by comparing it to other batteries. it had a bulge in the center where it should have been flat. Fingers crossed it isn't hardware.

had already tried a diff battery (did you know you can chew a corner off a touch pro 2 battery and make it fit??) Which i know worked fine in the old nicked dz and imo as i was getting same issue ruled out battery problem.
anyway... phone has now been returned and i'm waiting 2-3 weeks to get it repaired under warranty (though am hoping for complete replacement obviously)

Chewing on batteries has got to get you extra xda brownie points. I'll remember that
Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using XDA App

I'd like to think there was some techincal or engineering skill in there somewhere.
but it was mostly "Well, apart form this nugget of plastic they're the same shape..."

I'm having the exact same problem... When you take you shutdown to recharge a dead battery, does it sometimes try to turn back on? I left my apartment like 30m ago with 100% battery, and I'm at 84% and declining. There's nothing running. And I've replaced the battery, same issue.
I think I might just RMA this one.. seems like an engineering issues.
Edit: I'm the 40 seconds it took me to type this, battery dropped to 82%.

Wanted to bump this post. I've since wiped / reloaded and wiped battery stats. It's still jacked. I think it's an internal electrical thing. Reason is: I'll power down to take the battery out. When I put the other one in, it'll turn back on. Or if I power down to charge, it'll turn back on - plugged in or not. I don't want to deal with the RMA process again, but I think it's my only choice. I've taken two phone calls this AM @ 100%, and it's at 96% now. Drives me insane. Ugh... I'll call TMO. Anyone know if the replacements are still rootable?

So... I had my phone replaced, and it's still doing the horrid battery thing. Flashed CM 7.1 RC3 or w/e the latest is, cycled one battery - and it drops like a stone. I have two chargers (one at work, one at home) and they both charge the phone up to 100%. But it's still losing battery life quicker than I'd like. I used to be able to get a good 18 hours out of this phone. Even with a new battery and a new phone, it's acting up. I'll try to flash an older ROM and see if it's the same thing. I updated to #130 nightly from 7/10. We'll see how it lasts today. But I do remember I had horrible luck with CM's ROM's on my G1. Battery would just drain for no reason. The main process taking up the most battery life is "Cell standby" so I changed to the latest radio - and it still drops. OP - have you figured out your problem? I've removed a ton of apps, and it's still messing up. I listen to music for... 45m in the AM, and I get down to 54%. I've formatted my SD Card as well.. it's driving me insane.

I just flashed CM 7.1 a few days ago and while the ROM is great, it does seem to be a litter harder on my battery than 6.1 was. With light/moderate usage yesterday, I got about 16 hours and that was running the battery almost completely dead. With heavy usage, I get about 10 hours and need a bump charge in the afternoon.
You might want to look into getting a Mugen 1800mah battery. You can get them on Ebay from 35-40 dollars. The seller 'nakedcellphone' is based out of Southern California and another user has confirmed ordering from them and getting a legitimate battery (lots of fakes on Ebay). Either that, or carry a charger with you...
Have you tried using Watchdog to see if there are any 'rogue' apps that are causing the drain by running in the background? What about going to spare parts > battery history > Partial Wake usage? There it will show apps that are draining your battery when you're not 'actively' using your phone. For me, the Android System is the highest drain in that menu. Good luck! Hope some of this helps!

I just checked spare parts, and there's nothing too odd in there. Just my music app. And I've changed that too - thought Winamp was killing me. I'll check Watchdog. This is a brand new OEM battery along with an RMA'd G2. It has to be the OS / Radio or something. I've stripped like every non-essential app too.

[Q] Did I buy a well disguised lemon?

I picked up a T-Mobile S4 on amazon for a pretty good price. This price wasn't "too good to be true" or anything like that, it was just a fair price for what I think is already a decently "mature" device.
Anyway, the phone is in like new condition and the owner had it presumably for about 6 months at least. I know this because he indicated that he had it in an otter-like case for that amount of time.
The first thing I immediately noticed was how fast the battery drained. He shipped the phone with the battery fully charged but still I just noticed that customizing things and changing settings I seemed to lose battery very quickly. My experience may be biased by my past two devices the Xperia Z Ultra and the Note 2 both which have large batteries, however, I installed CarbonRom and still experience what I believe to be abnormal battery drain.
Also, the top half of the phone gets noticeably warm from normal usage like web browsing or flipping through app settings. I do NOT game. The is a distinct difference between how the top half of the phone feels versus the bottom half. It's mostly centralized around the camera. I used gsam to check the temperature of the battery and it does seem normal, however, my brightness is like ~20% and I don't know, my friend who is also on Carbon says he gets amazing battery life. I feel let down by how quickly this thing drains and as I continue to say I don't think it is normal. I ordered a spare RAVPower 2600mah battery to see if there's a problem with the battery but I'm really not hopeful.
What do you guys think?

I too was disappointed with the M919 when I first got it. I have another S4 (i9505) which is rooted I get great battery life using the same sim card. My guess is the LTE radio is what sucks up the juice.
I have rooted it today just to install intelli3g and it does help save battery life. This app automatically switches to 2G, 3G, 4G and LTE depending on what you tell it to do. It's like a tasker type app.
Try to disable apps like google+ and the like if you haven't done so.
Also don't forget to disable Wifi scanning and Wifi on during sleep.
And if you really don't need "Data" to be on all the time, turn it off.

Dajinn said:
I picked up a T-Mobile S4 on amazon for a pretty good price. This price wasn't "too good to be true" or anything like that, it was just a fair price for what I think is already a decently "mature" device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A bad battery would be my first thought. It's logical. It fits the facts you present. And it's a common problem.
Plus it's a $10 fix.
I would doubt the drain was software related if you get the same bad battery results with a completely different ROM.
And I'd doubt that it's hardware related because a hardware fault that will drain the battery fast is likely a hardware fault that will prevent the phone from working at all. battery drain is caused by short circuits. Electronics don't work and play well with short circuits.
So I think you are being reasonable by trying a new battery. I don't think it's unreasonable to expect it to help.
If you want to squeeze out every possible second of battery life, check out the link in my signature about battery like while idle as well. It'll show you how to improve your battery life.

[DISCUSSION] Use stock ROM for your battery's health

Hello everybody.
I just want to share with you guys what I found out.
I've been using custom ROMs and custom kernels for LG V30, and I faced a lot of issues. The most common issue is overheating, especially on charging or using mobile data.
I use Anker's adapter that supports Quick Charge 3.0, and an Anker USB-C to USB-3.0 cable. I use Ampere app to see how the battery is charge.
On custom ROMs, the ampere number (mA) changes every few seconds, jumps up and down with big gap, and the phone gets very hot.
On stock ROM (US99820H) in my case, mA number is very stable. It increases or decreases slowly and doesn't jump up and down. On plugging in, min and max mA are equal. The phone is just a little bit hotter than before plugging in.
So I just wanted to share my own experience with you guys. If you want you phone to last long, use Stock ROMs, disable bloatwares and useless system apps.
I'm going to purchase the battery and change it myself for better battery life. I wanted to change to another phone but for now, this is the best phone for music.
Please discuss if you disagree with me or have a solution for custom ROMs.

minhntp said:
Hello everybody.
I just want to share with you guys what I found out.
I've been using custom ROMs and custom kernels for LG V30, and I faced a lot of issues. The most common issue is overheating, especially on charging or using mobile data.
I use Anker's adapter that supports Quick Charge 3.0, and an Anker USB-C to USB-3.0 cable. I use Ampere app to see how the battery is charge.
On custom ROMs, the ampere number (mA) changes every few seconds, jumps up and down with big gap, and the phone gets very hot.
On stock ROM (US99820H) in my case, mA number is very stable. It increases or decreases slowly and doesn't jump up and down. On plugging in, min and max mA are equal. The phone is just a little bit hotter than before plugging in.
So I just wanted to share my own experience with you guys. If you want you phone to last long, use Stock ROMs, disable bloatwares and useless system apps.
I'm going to purchase the battery and change it myself for better battery life. I wanted to change to another phone but for now, this is the best phone for music.
Please discuss if you disagree with me or have a solution for custom ROMs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also felt the same...Though the charging speed on custom roms is higher...in terms of stability of current, Stock Rom is the best.

minhntp said:
Hello everybody.
I just want to share with you guys what I found out.
I've been using custom ROMs and custom kernels for LG V30, and I faced a lot of issues. The most common issue is overheating, especially on charging or using mobile data.
I use Anker's adapter that supports Quick Charge 3.0, and an Anker USB-C to USB-3.0 cable. I use Ampere app to see how the battery is charge.
On custom ROMs, the ampere number (mA) changes every few seconds, jumps up and down with big gap, and the phone gets very hot.
On stock ROM (US99820H) in my case, mA number is very stable. It increases or decreases slowly and doesn't jump up and down. On plugging in, min and max mA are equal. The phone is just a little bit hotter than before plugging in.
So I just wanted to share my own experience with you guys. If you want you phone to last long, use Stock ROMs, disable bloatwares and useless system apps.
I'm going to purchase the battery and change it myself for better battery life. I wanted to change to another phone but for now, this is the best phone for music.
Please discuss if you disagree with me or have a solution for custom ROMs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In terms of stability, I have different results, when I charge using a custom rom the phone tends to stay cool, but when I used the stock rom the phone got a lot hotter then before charging.

Custom ROMs may not be utilizing QC properly. QC 2.0 has few discrete voltage/current steps, while QC 3.0 has many (200mA increments iirc) designed to strike a balance between charging speed and heat. Maybe it's getting stuck in QC 2.0 mode and the temperature feedback isn't working properly?
You could just use a non-fast-charging wireless charger, if you're only charging up at night. 5v/~1A is pretty much harmless, it's just on the slow side of things.
fyi, battery capacity (as tracked by the charging controller driver, I guess) is stored at sys/class/power_supply/bms/charge_full; it defaults to design capacity until a full charge cycle has been completed* and then I suppose is revised each time the driver tracks less energy has been stored after a complete charge. Cycle count, cell resistance and a couple other things are also stored here. I think all values are persistent until the battery is physically disconnected.
Might be worth doing a full discharge+charge (to 100%, then let it sit for a few hours to saturate) to see if your battery is worn enough to warrant pulling the phone apart. Accubattery does seem to be more or less accurate, so you charge while it's on you can get a real-time idea of how much has gone in.
* a full charge might be from 1% to 100%. It might be from 5% to 100%. Who knows! I've charged from 2% to 100% a couple times and not had cycle_count increase.
Also, if you do go shopping, beware of undersized batteries. I bought an "OE spec" battery a while ago that was obviously thinner and lighter than the original; it weighed some 12.5% less and only took a 3000mah charge, more or less lining up with the reduced weight. The seller was "tele*cell", and I very much doubt they're the only ones pulling this crap. Record the contents of power_supply/bms if they're important to you, too, as they zero out upon battery disconnect.
edit: hmm, thinking about it...bms = Battery Management System? (not this one specifically, of course)

Septfox said:
Also, if you do go shopping, beware of undersized batteries. I bought an "OE spec" battery a while ago that was obviously thinner and lighter than the original; it weighed some 12.5% less and only took a 3000mah charge, more or less lining up with the reduced weight. The seller was "tele*cell", and I very much doubt they're the only ones pulling this crap. Record the contents of power_supply/bms if they're important to you, too, as they zero out upon battery disconnect.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is possible that you bought a smaller battery - but you should know that the capacity of Li** batteries increases within the first couple of cycles. Also usually the nominal capacity might be different from the real (typical) capacity. So you would need to meassure a.new original battery against your replacement battery (not take the value LG tells us for.granted)

daniu said:
It is possible that you bought a smaller battery - but you should know that the capacity of Li** batteries increases within the first couple of cycles. Also usually the nominal capacity might be different from the real (typical) capacity. So you would need to meassure a.new original battery against your replacement battery (not take the value LG tells us for.granted)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Li-po capacity hasn't really gone anywhere in a while, and I wouldn't expect cheap eBay batteries to be using the newest and best chemistry. It was definitely undersize/weight; I attached some pictures.
Because I wanted to be absolutely sure before I called the seller on it, I purposefully ran it four full cycles, then built up another two during normal use. The best capacity that the BMS ever rated it for was 2980mah, while Accubattery put in something like...3060mah once with subsequent charges in the 2900-3000 range.
While I get what you're saying, I find it unlikely that the BMS would set to the expected design capacity if they were using undersize batteries from the factory.
The reason being that at a guess, the battery "fuel gauge" is probably based on capacity_full, which = capacity_full_design until set. With a new phone that isn't charged to 100% (thus setting capacity_full), if using the phone down to 1% you'd risk either a) the phone suddenly shutting down at ~10% or b) overdischarge damage if the battery is actually less than the phone's design capacity.
Kind of a corner case though, I'll admit, since this would only be on the first run.
Last, I submit my own OEM battery for consideration: prior to taking it out, it had accumulated 537 cycles and had a recorded capacity of 2485mah. That's about what I'd expect from a 3300mah battery that was almost certainly used "normally" e.g. discharged daily, charged nightly and left on the tap at full charge for hours on end.
Like you said, though, the only way to know for sure would be testing a new OEM battery, and we've been fresh out of those for a year and a half now. Maybe someone could nab one from one of their newer models and test for science? I already have too many spare lipo cells laying around.

Septfox said:
Custom ROMs may not be utilizing QC properly. QC 2.0 has few discrete voltage/current steps, while QC 3.0 has many (200mA increments iirc) designed to strike a balance between charging speed and heat. Maybe it's getting stuck in QC 2.0 mode and the temperature feedback isn't working properly?
You could just use a non-fast-charging wireless charger, if you're only charging up at night. 5v/~1A is pretty much harmless, it's just on the slow side of things.
fyi, battery capacity (as tracked by the charging controller driver, I guess) is stored at sys/class/power_supply/bms/charge_full; it defaults to design capacity until a full charge cycle has been completed* and then I suppose is revised each time the driver tracks less energy has been stored after a complete charge. Cycle count, cell resistance and a couple other things are also stored here. I think all values are persistent until the battery is physically disconnected.
Might be worth doing a full discharge+charge (to 100%, then let it sit for a few hours to saturate) to see if your battery is worn enough to warrant pulling the phone apart. Accubattery does seem to be more or less accurate, so you charge while it's on you can get a real-time idea of how much has gone in.
* a full charge might be from 1% to 100%. It might be from 5% to 100%. Who knows! I've charged from 2% to 100% a couple times and not had cycle_count increase.
Also, if you do go shopping, beware of undersized batteries. I bought an "OE spec" battery a while ago that was obviously thinner and lighter than the original; it weighed some 12.5% less and only took a 3000mah charge, more or less lining up with the reduced weight. The seller was "tele*cell", and I very much doubt they're the only ones pulling this crap. Record the contents of power_supply/bms if they're important to you, too, as they zero out upon battery disconnect.
edit: hmm, thinking about it...bms = Battery Management System? (not this one specifically, of course)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have sleep problem after changing the battery? After changing the battery, my phone doesn't go to sleep when the screen is off, so the battery just keeps draining. I'm using stock ROM. I don't know if this is a software of hardware issue.

minhntp said:
Do you have sleep problem after changing the battery? After changing the battery, my phone doesn't go to sleep when the screen is off, so the battery just keeps draining. I'm using stock ROM. I don't know if this is a software of hardware issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The only thing notable that happened was the battery stats getting wiped. Otherwise the phone behaved normally.
Try getting BetterBatteryStats, second post has the newest apk attached (2.3 iirc).
Start it up to get it established, Set Custom Ref. from the menu, shut the screen off for...ehh...20min.
Turn it back on, select Custom in the left drop-down menu and Current in the right drop-down menu.
Check Kernel Wakelocks and Partial Wakelocks using the top drop-down menu to see if anything sticks out.

Septfox said:
Li-po capacity hasn't really gone anywhere in a while, and I wouldn't expect cheap eBay batteries to be using the newest and best chemistry. It was definitely undersize/weight; I attached some pictures.
Because I wanted to be absolutely sure before I called the seller on it, I purposefully ran it four full cycles, then built up another two during normal use. The best capacity that the BMS ever rated it for was 2980mah, while Accubattery put in something like...3060mah once with subsequent charges in the 2900-3000 range.
While I get what you're saying, I find it unlikely that the BMS would set to the expected design capacity if they were using undersize batteries from the factory.
The reason being that at a guess, the battery "fuel gauge" is probably based on capacity_full, which = capacity_full_design until set. With a new phone that isn't charged to 100% (thus setting capacity_full), if using the phone down to 1% you'd risk either a) the phone suddenly shutting down at ~10% or b) overdischarge damage if the battery is actually less than the phone's design capacity.
Kind of a corner case though, I'll admit, since this would only be on the first run.
Last, I submit my own OEM battery for consideration: prior to taking it out, it had accumulated 537 cycles and had a recorded capacity of 2485mah. That's about what I'd expect from a 3300mah battery that was almost certainly used "normally" e.g. discharged daily, charged nightly and left on the tap at full charge for hours on end.
Like you said, though, the only way to know for sure would be testing a new OEM battery, and we've been fresh out of those for a year and a half now. Maybe someone could nab one from one of their newer models and test for science? I already have too many spare lipo cells laying around.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is the full capacity when you put those 2 battery in?
I just bought a battery. This new one has 6 symbols each line (like the one you bought) and 2 lines of manufactured date. The old (original) one has 5 symbols each line and also 2 lines of manufatured date.
When I check "charge_full" after full charging, it shows 3312000 for the original battery and 3230000 for the new one, while the "charge_full_design" being 3312000 for both battery.

minhntp said:
What is the full capacity when you put those 2 battery in?
I just bought a battery. This new one has 6 symbols each line (like the one you bought) and 2 lines of manufactured date. The old (original) one has 5 symbols each line and also 2 lines of manufatured date.
When I check "charge_full" after full charging, it shows 3312000 for the original battery and 3230000 for the new one, while the "charge_full_design" being 3312000 for both battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All three batteries I've had showed the same 3312000 charge_full_design. But I'm not sure if this is relevant to us, aside from as a reference to compare to.
Out of curiosity and so I don't purposely give outright bad information, I went and looked at the kernel (up on github courtesy of lunar-kernels).
3300mah design capacity is set when the kernel is built (BLT34 battery profile, which is grabbed by the power manager).
I'm not sure where the number "3312000" specifically is coming from. I can't read the source for the BMS well enough to tell why it's coming up with that number, aside from it's a calculated result based on more than just the design capacity.
Based on the above and other behavior, I don't think any permanent information is stored with or retrieved from the battery itself; design parameters are set in the BLT34 profile and then the BMS amends certain things as it takes measurements. It assumes that whatever attached battery is actually 3300/3312mah until proven otherwise (calibrated with sufficient cycling).
Said measurements are stored ~somewhere~ outside of the ROM, recovery and download mode - mine persisted through the LAFsploit process and TWRP on both partitions - and cleared when power is lost. Maybe they're stored in RAM somewhere? Maybe the BMS notices the discontinuity in power and assumes a battery change, resetting everything? I'll try making sense of the kernel source to see...
The labeling difference is curious, and something I hadn't really given thought to. The newer ones have NOM and NYCE marks, which are Mexican safety approval things. It's interesting that the originals don't have them; maybe because LG doesn't make phones for the Mexican market and thus saw no need? I doubt these third-party manufacturers have gone out of their way to actually obtain said approval...probably just stuck them there to satisfy customs.
I bought a battery from another seller and installed it this weekend; it uses the 12-symbol style as well, has date+date code like the original (dated a rather shiny 2019.09.08!), and weighs the expected 48g/has an OE-style "stepped" back making it thicker.
Seems to charge fully and otherwise work as expected. charge_full still = charge_full_design, I'm not sure if this is because the BMS has determined that it's an OEM-capacity battery, or it hasn't cycled sufficiently to update. Gonna keep an eye on it. Pictures attached.
Edit: battery listing on ebay. Note if anyone else buys it: the suction cup that came with mine was 100% useless. Plan accordingly.
-
A further note on the smaller battery I bought: it did perform admirably. It had no issues when using the phone as a power supply (~2.5A sustained output), right down to where I stopped it at 5%, which is rather abusive for cells in this form-factor. It was just...well...smaller. It certainly wasn't a bad battery at all, it was just misrepresented. Lighter/slightly-smaller batteries would make great travel batteries, if the V30 were swap-friendly...
-

@Septfox
I hope you bought a good one.
The battery I bought lasts long, but also takes long to charge (about 2 hours). The phone shows fast-charging but when I check battery log in Hidden menu, it shows only Quick charge 2.0.
I found a way to reset the battery information, hopefully sellers don't use this to reset the cycle count.
There's a thread on xda that shows a method to reset battery information on HTC phones. That is holding down 2 volume buttons + power button (volume down + power for LG V30) in 2 minutes while the phone is being charged, let the phone restart as many times it takes in 2 minutes. And then charge the phone to full.
I did that and when I check in Hidden menu, the battery information was resetted to 3312000 full capacity and 0 cycle count.

minhntp said:
@Septfox
The battery I bought lasts long, but also takes long to charge (about 2 hours). The phone shows fast-charging but when I check battery log in Hidden menu, it shows only Quick charge 2.0.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
QC 3.0 wouldn't outright increase the speed any; it exists to help reduce heat and provide more consistent charging.
If it makes you feel any better, mine is also getting stuck on QC 2.0. Judging by the way the Parallel Charging status flickers on and off as I move the cable and put pressure on the connector, I could probably stand to get a new charging port...
This is why wireless charging is a good idea. But now that I think about it, replacement boards are cheap on ebay ($5), so replacing it each time the battery is changed might be a good bit of cheap maintenance to do :good:
Have you tried a different cable and/or charger to see if your charging improves? Maybe you need a new port, too.
minhntp said:
I found a way to reset the battery information, hopefully sellers don't use this to reset the cycle count.
There's a thread on xda that shows a method to reset battery information on HTC phones. That is holding down 2 volume buttons + power button (volume down + power for LG V30) in 2 minutes while the phone is being charged, let the phone restart as many times it takes in 2 minutes. And then charge the phone to full.
I did that and when I check in Hidden menu, the battery information was resetted to 3312000 full capacity and 0 cycle count.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I find this slightly alarming, actually...
The normal button combination to hard-reset the phone is power+vol down. This might just be what's happening, and by making the phone do it repeatedly, the firmware might be interpreting it as a bootloop condition caused by something in memory and completely disconnecting power in an attempt to mitigate it (clearing the battery stats in the process). Probably harmless though.
Dunno that a seller would bother trying it, though. What do they get out of it, other than a seemingly-new battery with less capacity than it should have? It would just recalibrate when charged and show the real capacity in the hidden menu, and the game would be up :v

Septfox said:
QC 3.0 wouldn't outright increase the speed any; it exists to help reduce heat and provide more consistent charging.
If it makes you feel any better, mine is also getting stuck on QC 2.0
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All V30 always show QuickCharge 2.0 in Nougat as well as Oreo. Not sure about Pie.
Speculation was it was a script error, that it was really 3.0 -- but falsely shows 2.0.
Can't remember if it was ever proven one way or the other.
I do remember people say it now charges slower on Pie. Again speculative because LG knows batteries are older?
I'm still on rooted Oreo, so I don't care.

ChazzMatt said:
I do remember people say it now charges slower on Pie. Again speculative because LG knows batteries are older?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't notice my phone charging any different. Even when using wired.
Sent from my LG-H932 using XDA Labs

ChazzMatt said:
All V30 always show QuickCharge 2.0 in Nougat as well as Oreo. Not sure about Pie.
Speculation was it was a script error, that it was really 3.0 -- but falsely shows 2.0.
Can't remember if it was ever proven one way or the other.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I read "the display may not be correct, so you should totally use this as an excuse to get a newer charger-doctor that supports QC".
...and you're completely right, I'm gonna go do that :v
ChazzMatt said:
I do remember people say it now charges slower on Pie. Again speculative because LG knows batteries are older?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Or to mitigate further aging by reducing internal heat. I also remember seeing somewhere that it was limited to 12w or 13w, now that you mention it, though that might have been for 15w wireless which has a reputation for slow-cooking the battery (in any phone, not just the V30).