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Hola!
I'm trying to work out how to make my own XDA car kit cable. I have the pinout for the XDA - thanks to the XDA Developers Site
- http://wiki.xda-developers.com/wiki/Connectors
I also Have a pinout for the back of my Stereo (Philips CAR 400 From a Vauxhall Astra - '02) thanks to
- http://carradio.hit.bg/philips.htm
I have done some preliminary testing with small cables and connectors that go into a standard phono input on my big stereo in my room and have been successful at making a mini-kit, but am having real trouble working out what the pins on the back of the car stereo do (i.e which is for audio input from the phone)
Labels are as follows:
PHILIPS CAR400
01 - SVD
02 - SAC
03 - SCL
04 - Tel. Mute
05 - TIS
06 - Batt. +
07 - MRQ
08 - Power Antenna
09 - DDL
10 - Lights
11 - ACC ( 12 v + )
12 - GND
13 - SDA
The only one that make any sense is Tel. Mute (Anyone any idea what voltage I have to put accross this to get the system to mute)
If anyone knows what the rest of the pins stand for your help would be much appreciated.
Many thanks,
Will
You put the mute to earth to mute the stereo - normally it's floating.
1 down
Good good, one down, 12 to go.
Now I've read your question.
Answer is probably none of them. All the mute does is silence the audio (and pause the CD on some radios) - the assumption is either that you have a remote speaker for the phone or you use some commercial adapter like Autoleads to intercept the output to the car speakers via a relay. Autoleads sell a huge range of car/stereo specific leads that all provide a "generic" phone interface for Nokia phones. There are also a number of patch leads that enable you to plug specific car kits to the Nokia interface (which is just Battery, switched +, ground and mute with a 3.5mm jack for mono audio. Most knowledgeable guy for this stuff is Terry White on http://www.siocommunications.co.uk/ (he'll sell you the appropriate leads or make up what you need).
Note that the Autoleads solution (which mutes the stereo and uses relays to swich the audio from the phone to front speakers) renders the stereo automute unnecessary, but it is nice to pause the CD anyway and usually you get a front panel indication of phone call which is useful.
I note that the Philips connector also has an audio L/R/Gnd input. This is probably for an aux source like an MP3 player (eg XDA) but of course this needs to be selected on the radio and will also be muted when the mute pin goes to ground.
Hope that helps
I guess the other pins are things like CANBus, D2B wakeup etc. a bit like Siemens/Bosch
Last one. The Autolead you need is 06-078B - £47 + pp from Terry.
http://www.siocommunications.co.uk/06-078B.html
Phew!
That's a mighty big cable?
I notice that it has a 'big connector' (I've marked it in yellow on the image I've attached with this post). There is already one of these on the existing setup. This wouldn't mean I have to completely rip out all of the existing wiring would it?
Also, the jack (Red on the image) looks like a mono jack, I assume this is the bit that plugs into the phone or which I can adapt to plug into the phone?
Seems a bit expensive too, is it really necessary? Can I just forget the auto mute feature and have the phone output go through the 'MP3 In' inputs? That way I can listen to the music on the XDA through the car stereo as well as any sat-nav stuff I decide to install later on.
The main aim of my question is to try to develop a cheap solution to an XDA-Car audio interface. Do none of the connections on the back of my stereo allow me to wire in some sort of auxiliary input?
Yes it is big but it does the job and you can usually find room.
The connector(s) go in line with the ISO and stereo specific plugs, so routing all the power and speaker outputs via the relay module. You don't rip anything out, or need to break into existing wiring, so you reduce risk of problems or warranty issues - it really is the lowest hassle solution.
Yes the red plug is the phone audio input and is designed for Nokia kits.
Expensive? Not really, considering you avoid any hassles and can remove the kit after with no changes or damage to the car wiring. Replacing connectors and fixing car wiring can be expensive.
Yes you could go into the Philips cnnector from the XDA, but you would have to manually select Aux in on the radio, and it wouldn't mute anything. If you were listening to the car radio you'd need to answer the phone and also switch to aux in on the radio to hear anything. Sounds a mess to me!
OK
Ok, so assuming I use the new connector to wire in the phone and have it working through a seperate speaker, how do I connect the MP3 Outputs of the XDA into the stereo. I have no problem using a seperate speaker for the voice on the XDA but I really want to play the XDA music through the Car's built in speakers.
I understand I'll have to come up with some way of getting the sound from the XDA to the speaker AND the car stereo but I don't mind that, It's just something I'll have to worry about.
Most car stereos I've seen have a seperate set of Phono Sockets for auxiliary inputs but this philips doesn't. What do the pins on the back actually stand for in english? (Laymans terms please because I don't understand the long names but I will be able to fathom how to use them if you tell me what they actually do, long names might be ok too cos I can always look on Google to find out what the various bits do.)
Actually I screwed up - looking again at that wierd Bulgarian* site the CAR 400 looks like it has the 26 pin connector and the phone lead would be Autolead 06-053B.
http://www.siocommunications.co.uk/06-053B.html
Also it looks as though the CAR400 does NOT support Aux in - sorry about that - although you could try putting signals onto pins 9 and 10 (using 3 as Ground) and see what happens (that's what the CAR660 uses). No warranty actual or implied!!
* This guy is promoting software to crack EEPROM codes on car radios and to clock cars with digital instrument clusters. Not sure I'd be so keen to build a close relationship there mate!!
No Fear
Thanks anyway, I've got a few exams to sit this coming week so no chance to fiddle for a bit but I'll post back again once I work out how it goes. Looks like I'll have to find some sort of seperate amp and patch it in somewhere to output to the car speakers.
No connection between me and the Bulgarian bloke, just found the site on google as a means of showing you the pinout on the back of the CAR 400.
I'm assuming Pins 9 and 10 CDR and CDL stand for CD - Left and CD - Right respectively?
One last quickie before I go, can I source ISO connectors (Just the plastic bits) from anywhere so I can maybe make a patch through cable? I'd need a male and a female one.
i.e.
CAR STEREO (FEMALE ISO) ---> Wiring (MALE ISO)
becomes
CAR STEREO (FEMALE ISO) ---> NEW MALE ISO --------> MY STUFF ---------> NEW FEMALE ISO ---> Wiring (MALE ISO)
Cheers for the help, I'll have a mess about over the next few weeks and post back with my results in case anyone's interested.
Just a note to say I've found some ISO Connectors. You can get them from maplin.
http://www.maplin.co.uk
codes
QK25C (headunit end) @ £4.99
MZ76H (car end) @ £6.99
Anyone finds them a bit cheaper let me know...
Another quick note. I've found a small amplifier from Maplin (Code N67AW) 40W 6-16V. (MONO ONLY)
The instructions say it is a 'bridge type' amplifier and that the speaker connections should therefore not be to ground (As in a car).
The setup works fine on my test rig at home, but I was wondering, will I just get lots of noise if I connect it up in the car, or will I blow everything up?
So far my plan is to make a patch through cable that amplifies the XDA signal direct to the car speakers and has some form of automatic switch to detect if audio is coming through the XDA. If it is, then it mutes the signal from the car stereo and patches the XDA through.
Any suggetsions?
Hi, I recently installed an MTCD px3 unit in my car but the audio quality is not that great. I'm looking at the option of a USB DAC but that appears to have its own set of issues and complexity.
I do note though that the RK3188 chip includes an SPDIF function and this does appear as an audio device in /proc/asound/cards so if the pins (balls) are exposed somewhere on the px3 module board then it should be just a matter of soldering to the right points to create an SPDIF interface.
If someone has a totally bricked unit would you consider doing some research? I.e. using some heat to the remove the RK3188 BGA chip and locating the ball that relates to SPDIF and seeing if it can be traced to a track?
The SPDIF transmitter is located at ball N20. You can find the datasheet by googling "RK3188 Datasheet" (sorry I can't post links yet). So who can "expose the balls"?
Alternatively if someone has a dead board/unit they would give away, I'd be happy to pay shipping for you to send it to me (in New Zealand) and I'll do the research and share my findings with the community.
Also looking for someone who understands what would be required on the software side of things to actually use the interface. Some kind of ALSA magic I guess?
Note - I do understand the limitation. I.e. this only applies to audio within Android, not the radio or bluetooth etc. My approach would be to install a physical switch so I could switch my car amp between the analog and digital outputs.
mcraenz said:
Hi, I recently installed an MTCD px3 unit in my car but the audio quality is not that great. I'm looking at the option of a USB DAC but that appears to have its own set of issues and complexity.
I do note though that the RK3188 chip includes an SPDIF function and this does appear as an audio device in /proc/asound/cards so if the pins (balls) are exposed somewhere on the px3 module board then it should be just a matter of soldering to the right points to create an SPDIF interface.
If someone has a totally bricked unit would you consider doing some research? I.e. using some heat to the remove the RK3188 BGA chip and locating the ball that relates to SPDIF and seeing if it can be traced to a track?
The SPDIF transmitter is located at ball N20. You can find the datasheet by googling "RK3188 Datasheet" (sorry I can't post links yet). So who can "expose the balls"?
Alternatively if someone has a dead board/unit they would give away, I'd be happy to pay shipping for you to send it to me (in New Zealand) and I'll do the research and share my findings with the community.
Also looking for someone who understands what would be required on the software side of things to actually use the interface. Some kind of ALSA magic I guess?
Note - I do understand the limitation. I.e. this only applies to audio within Android, not the radio or bluetooth etc. My approach would be to install a physical switch so I could switch my car amp between the analog and digital outputs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi.. my Android Radio just recently crashed. If you like.. i can give it to you.
Its a Hot Audio Android Radio PX3 RK3188.
Thanks very much. I've sent a PM.
Cheers,
Rhys
do you located SPDIF transmitter? Is possibile to connect directly an external DSP such Audison P8.9?
Bump
I have a MTCD GS unit for an Audi TT and I get a feint electrical noise constantly through the cars speakers. If you have music or the radio on it is not too noticable but otherwise it is really obvious. It is definitely the unit as it isn't there with the stock head unit and if you hard reset the GS unit with the reset button whilst it is running it immediately goes away until the unit has booted. It was originally supplied with a RK3188/PX3 board running Android 5.0. I have since replaced the board with a PX5 board and have upgraded it to Android 8.0 (Malaysk). I isn't a software issue and is down to the hardware (I think...).
I have tried disabling WiFi and BlueTooth - although I don't think BlueTooth can be disabled as its not a native Android component of the system - and the noise remains. It is a feint pop and hiss noise that I think is an earth/grounding issue. I was going to replace the cable that goes to the WiFi antenna on the rear socket as this looks flimsy, however I am not sure it will make a difference.
Any ideas?
Andy
dirty power maybe? did you connect a chassis ground for the 0v on the unit.. my harness came with a ground with ring terminal..
Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
I have exactly same problem. But when the colors on LCD screen black : electrical noise increases. Any other color : electrical noise decreases. I will check groundings of unit in this weekend. I ll write here if i find out anything.
stinger4321 said:
dirty power maybe? did you connect a chassis ground for the 0v on the unit.. my harness came with a ground with ring terminal..
Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It shouldn't be dirty power as it connects into the factory loom. I'll take it out at weekend and see if grounding the chassis of the head unit to the car does anything.
Andy
I had this problem on my ksp. Ultimately I found opamps under the sound processor with dirty ground on the feedback resistors. I substituted resistors to the processor board ground header lead. Now all I hear is my fan.
I took the head unit out last weekend and tried earthing the chassis to the car and it made no difference - you can still hear the feint pops and hiss (all I can think to describe it is radio interference?). I also noticed that it gets worse when the cars lights are on and the head unit backlights come on (via CANBUS telling it I assume?).
It is a MTCD GS unit and has an external 'dongle' that is covered with heatshrink that is inline with the audio outputs. This has something to do with the level of the audio out - however I am just guessing here TBH.
Any other ideas how to eliminate this noise?
Cheers
Andy
ADB100 said:
I took the head unit out last weekend and tried earthing the chassis to the car and it made no difference - you can still hear the feint pops and hiss (all I can think to describe it is radio interference?). I also noticed that it gets worse when the cars lights are on and the head unit backlights come on (via CANBUS telling it I assume?).
It is a MTCD GS unit and has an external 'dongle' that is covered with heatshrink that is inline with the audio outputs. This has something to do with the level of the audio out - however I am just guessing here TBH.
Any other ideas how to eliminate this noise?
Cheers
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try grounding the PX5 board heatsink with the unit chassis.
iRcKenny said:
Try grounding the PX5 board heatsink with the unit chassis.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had the same noise issue when the PX3 board was installed and this has a much smaller heatsink than the PX5?
I'll give it a shot but its a bit more involved than just taking the unit out of the car though...
Andy
ADB100 said:
I had the same noise issue when the PX3 board was installed and this has a much smaller heatsink than the PX5?
I'll give it a shot but its a bit more involved than just taking the unit out of the car though...
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, you also have that noise before upgrading the core board, have you any chance to temporaly install another common radio like low budget Pionner, Alpine or similar? If yes check if the noise persist; some TT owners with noise from speakers said that the cause is the factory amplifier.
Have luck!
i have heard that the problem may be from the antenna, try getting a noise filter for the antenna
Record the noise with a video. Some quiet electrical noise is common, but we're talking almost silent and only when no music is playing at all.
ADB100 said:
I took the head unit out last weekend and tried earthing the chassis to the car and it made no difference - you can still hear the feint pops and hiss (all I can think to describe it is radio interference?). I also noticed that it gets worse when the cars lights are on and the head unit backlights come on (via CANBUS telling it I assume?).
It is a MTCD GS unit and has an external 'dongle' that is covered with heatshrink that is inline with the audio outputs. This has something to do with the level of the audio out - however I am just guessing here TBH.
Any other ideas how to eliminate this noise?
Cheers
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same thing on my A3 and although it doesn’t really bother me I’d be interested to see if someone finds a fix. On the A3’s it only affects the ones with Bose.
All my cabling is exactly the same as yours aswell.
I once emailed a company that sells the factory Bose amps for the audis and reconditions them and the bloke said that the signal sent to the Bose amp from the aftermarket headunit is different to the signal that is sent from the factory unit so I’d guess it’s something to do with that.
In regards to the dongle thing in heatshrink, that is a little board with a plug on it that the audio cables plug into. My speakers stopped working so I cut that open once and the connector had become unplugged inside. I think it’s there because the blue amp cable is connected through it aswell which is supposed to be for the amp to turn it on and that blue cable never used to be there on the older model units.
I have the same issue on my brand new dasaita 10.2 inch px5 android 8. Connected through RCA to my amp.
I will do some troubleshooting and see if I can figure it out.
BTW, there is a very loud static noise when my bluetooth is connected to my phone, I emailed dasaita about that particular issue.
checksum123 said:
I have the same issue on my brand new dasaita 10.2 inch px5 android 8. Connected through RCA to my amp.
I will do some troubleshooting and see if I can figure it out.
BTW, there is a very loud static noise when my bluetooth is connected to my phone, I emailed dasaita about that particular issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same unit with the same issues. Hot Audio sent me a replacement bluetooth module to solder in. That fixed the bluetooth noise. I still have slight background hiss all the time.
could you guys please take a look at my issue which includes electrical noise - even when radio is off.
e.g.
- downloading maps on Sygic, there is a clicking that goes with the increase in % of the download.
- browsing the menu and / or selecting apps has a varying noise
Interestingly, the rear-camera power seems unstable as does the GPS.
I also noted, that i couldn't power the unit on the bench via the vw quadlock connector, i had to use the white connector.
Makes me wonder if there is some general grounding problem that is the problem.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...droid-8-px5-mtcelmv2-881-vw-multiple-t3884665
I have an equal problem with my eonon px3 7.1, which is then klyde. Light rustling always constant, then when I register with the front usb camera the noise is much higher and seems a squeak of mouse .. I changed mb sent by them but the problem remains, even connecting the ground to the chassis of the car. Quache solution please guys, I'm going crazy.
gwaitsi said:
could you guys please take a look at my issue which includes electrical noise - even when radio is off.
e.g.
- downloading maps on Sygic, there is a clicking that goes with the increase in % of the download.
- browsing the menu and / or selecting apps has a varying noise
Interestingly, the rear-camera power seems unstable as does the GPS.
I also noted, that i couldn't power the unit on the bench via the vw quadlock connector, i had to use the white connector.
Makes me wonder if there is some general grounding problem that is the problem.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...droid-8-px5-mtcelmv2-881-vw-multiple-t3884665
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ADB100 said:
I have a MTCD GS unit for an Audi TT and I get a feint electrical noise constantly through the cars speakers. If you have music or the radio on it is not too noticable but otherwise it is really obvious. It is definitely the unit as it isn't there with the stock head unit and if you hard reset the GS unit with the reset button whilst it is running it immediately goes away until the unit has booted. It was originally supplied with a RK3188/PX3 board running Android 5.0. I have since replaced the board with a PX5 board and have upgraded it to Android 8.0 (Malaysk). I isn't a software issue and is down to the hardware (I think...).
I have tried disabling WiFi and BlueTooth - although I don't think BlueTooth can be disabled as its not a native Android component of the system - and the noise remains. It is a feint pop and hiss noise that I think is an earth/grounding issue. I was going to replace the cable that goes to the WiFi antenna on the rear socket as this looks flimsy, however I am not sure it will make a difference.
Any ideas?
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same isue, almost gone when changed the poor quality antenna from the WIFI (used a 9DB antenna)
Pick one from amazon,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GDCLVPJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can try to purchase a extension canble an antenna and put away from the unit and the engine.
In my case the pops and hiss almos gone and are barely noticiable.
The qualty of the original antenna is horrible.
jerrymh said:
I have the same isue, almost gone when changed the poor quality antenna from the WIFI (used a 9DB antenna)
Pick one from amazon,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GDCLVPJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can try to purchase a extension canble an antenna and put away from the unit and the engine.
In my case the pops and hiss almos gone and are barely noticiable.
The qualty of the original antenna is horrible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
by that token, simply turning off the wifi would prove it no?
gwaitsi said:
by that token, simply turning off the wifi would prove it no?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You would think so wouldn't you?
I have a couple of spare SMA WiFi antennas that I can try. If I get some time later today I'll try and get the head unit out of the dash and try them. I'll post whether it makes any difference (the spare antenna I have might also be crap though...).
Andy
What I found helped is that I put some ferrite beads on the power cables to the headunit and the speaker cables from the unit. It hasn’t totally removed the issue but it is certainly better and I haven’t lost any sound quality(if anything it’s slightly better as there’s less interference).
Hi.
I recently bought an MTCE PX5 based head unit for my french Peugeot 308 (2009).
The manufacturer seems to be Klyde as the version number (MTCE_KLD_V2.88b_1) says.
The installation in the car was pretty easy and plug & play thanks to your help on the main PX5 thread.
Still I have a few questions that you might have answers for
First, the head unit sounds pretty crappy.
My previous Parrot Aseroid Smart (slowish Android 2.3 / 512 MB) had a way much better sound output quality.
I will try to flash one of Cs-x's sound patchs, see if it goes better with that update.
The main problem comes from a lot of noises I get from the head unit "gzzzz" "pshhhh", it reminds me of the good old times with the computers ****ty front panel audio
When I call someone, they barelly hear me. Have you guys been experiencing such noises ?
--> Fixed by flashing one of Cs-x's patched firmwares
Then there are my rear sensors.
They are successfully detected and provided to the head unit by the CANBUS decoder provided by the seller, but they don't beep !
The seller didn't provide the amplified external speaker needed so I must do it the DIY way...
I managed to solder RCA connectors to that audio signal and I can hear the beeps when I switch for AV1 on the unit : good... but my back camera is connected to the CAM1 input wich is automatically displayed when I engage the reverse gear.
Is there a way to ask my head unit to switch to AV1 instead of CAM input when I engage reverse ?
That would be perfect as I will get the video from the back camera AND the audio from the sensors !
An other issue : my car's service counter is going crazy !
As I drove a few meters, the service counter droped near a thousand kilometers since next service.
This will result in service light flashing in a few days, for at least 12 month until my next real service :
Any idea ?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Damien
Ok guys, I managed to fix my first issue simplt by flashing one of those Cs-x sound patched firmwares !
Thanks for that !
Any advice for getting sound & video for ma rear sensors & camera ?
Bump, any idea ?
I got an other big issue with my canbus decoder...
See first post (photos), my service odometer seems to freak out a bit
Interesting as I just looked at this company for one for my Mazda CX7..
Just sent them an email on it..
Want the 4meg 32g version..
Seems also while they work with the Bose system already the reverse cam that comes with the car may not work.. need to confirm..
Hi Dgcruzing
Did you have any response from Belsee ?
Usually they answer within 2 days.
Yes, they popped back an answer.
But ended up going with a Dasaita.
Seems plenty of resellers of thier unit across the usual channels.. so with luck it all goes to plan..
Rear sensors
I have a Peugeot 208 and Dasaita unit, so slightly different and this may not help. But I had issues with reverse sensors and did not realise I had to install the supplied speaker. The beeps from the reverse sensors do not come out of the main speakers in the car, only the extra speaker provided.
Thanks Downerhouse for your message.
Indeed, my unit has this connector too, but there was no speaker in shipped the box
I tried many speakers and piezzo buzzers, but none of them worked.
I managed to attach a RCA connector to this output so I could at least plug the rear sensors sound output into my AUX input... but that's really not practical...
Bump
New ideas.
I read in a french forum that I could easily modify the car's ECU so the rear parking sensors output directly through the cars COM2000 (that's the direction switch, behind the steering wheel) instead of the classical audio circuit. I will check this.
Hello! I've got a 2018 Toyota Auris (yes, i know, in the USA is named Corolla). I changed the radio for a Dasaita PX6 radio with DSP and Android 10.
[**Link to the radio**](https://es.aliexpress.com/item/33011976959.html)
It came with an external Microphone but they don't allow you to use the OEM microphone wich was... honestly perfect. This is what the radio came with:
[**Image of the radio with all the accesories**]
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
The microphone connects via 3.5mm Mini Jack. I tested it and I turned the microphone amplification to +10db because if i had it lower, NOBODY CAN HEAR ME. So... +10db, ok.
The audio quality in calls was so horrific that I thought... well maybe is this ****ty microphone, lets try another one. So I bought the Sony ECM-CS3:
[**Sony ECM-CS3 (beautiful)**]
I connected it with the same settings (remember, less than +10db means nobody can hear me), and... I still had the same Issue. The microphone audio is distorted as hell. I tested it by recording a call with my girlfriend. I'm the dude... and i can't even understand myself. The worst part is in the middle, when I am driving in the highway (min. 8 aprox):
[**Sound proof**] (https://freesound.org/s/573025/)
I though about trying to Isolate the microphone with foam because my actual setup is this:
It has foam underneath for vibrations, but the actual microphone has no foam around. I'll test it later but for me it looks more like a software issue.
What do you think? Any idea of how to improve the sound quality? I found this post in a Tacoma forum where **a guy found a way to use the OEM microphone from Toyota in an Android Unit**. But I am scared of not being compatible with the Corollas:
[**Link to his adapter**](https://tombit.com/product/3rd-gen-toyota-tacoma-mic-adapter-atc-ato-fuse-type/)
[**Link to the forum post**](https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-tacoma-oem-mic-adapter.714665/)
Oh! I made a video (in Spanish, sorry. But **it has English subs!**) showing the whole setup of the radio where you can see everything better:
[**Radio Setup**](
)
You have to use the dasaita mic. Other mics don't have the same impedance.
As for quality... maybe your mic or mic input is defective? I use the dasaita mic (and android phone) with no issues.
Bob_Sanders said:
You have to use the dasaita mic. Other mics don't have the same impedance.
As for quality... maybe your mic or mic input is defective? I use the dasaita mic (and android phone) with no issues.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you mean the internal one or the external that came inside the box?
The external. I have never tried the internal
I have a 2015 Corolla ZRE181R. I managed the built in mic to work on my Dasaita PX6 MAX10-CP (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001566063752.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.2d8f7fdcmptC4w). The trim panel bit I bought from Joying a while back - allows your Corolla (Pre-2017) to take a 200x100 toyota universal unit. Also canbus cables is CB004 so you need to get it from a different listing and not the listing for the toyota universal unit.
But before I got this to work, I ended up blowing a little SPDT switch on the board and that shorted the mic input to ground and I could not even use my front panel mic. My temporary solution was replacing the analog SPDT switch (marked with MIAKI) with a 1kiloohm resistor (across the common and normally closed connection). My brother knows how to do SMD soldering/de-soldering so he helped me on that one (with a little fee). MTKNAVI (the seller on aliexpress) was kind enough to tell me which part I needed to fix the board with once I found where the fault was.
It should be the same unit as yours with a different front panel - just a heads up but all these units are quite generic and even the mainboard uses an STM32 microcontroller and the PX6 board is removable.
Attached is what I worked out - try at your own risk. It may allow you to reuse the amplified mic on the harness and it will sound "OK" but I still have to put this through a road test... If someone comes round to selling this for cheap in a kit - send me a free sample. A decoupling capacitor is recommended for when you wire the buck converter to your cigarette lighter connections. The ground strap for the wiring shield is separate - it never gets connected to the microphone but prevents the wiring from picking up noise.
If you need to read up wiring diagrams get them from toyota-tech.eu or any reliable source which is official or even google can help.
Remember the Dasaita supplied mic (even on the front panel) is around 1kiloohm resistance - anything that is much lower impedance may blow up something on the board and you will need help then. Also cannot confirm if the powered mic will not blow the spdt switch again if I replace it and put in a resistance on the input mic. Someone please see if there is perhaps a protection circuit to add on the mic. Any amplified mic will go boom
Your thoughts?
@nxdesign WOW! I was think of trying something similar in my CHR, great job, man! So I basically need to power the factory mic and run a 1k resistor before plugging it's output into the Dasaita, right?
@nxdesign That's it! Tomorrow I'm doing it! Got a 1k + 5k variable resistor so I can tune the attenuating resistance between 1k and 6k.
I wouldn't use a switching regulator, use a linear 7805.
The "protector" is a capacitor connected directly to the head unit mic+/input. 0.1uf should be fine.
Update: It works!
I left the resistance set to the maximum it can do, which is total 5.6Kohm.
For anyone reading this, if you have the same 2018 Toyota CHR + JBL model, you need to take 12V power from somewhere else, as it's not present in F80 pin 3. I just used the Front Camera power cable from the Dasaita unit, but you can splice any ACC power.
Before plugging in, I checked on an oscilloscope and voltage that I put at mic input to Dasaita was +/- about 30mV. Seems high compared to a passive mic, but it seems to clip only if I purposely talk loud close to the mic in the roof. I'll see if I need to increase the resistance more
@nxdesign your schematic works, thanks a lot! And I confirm I didn't fry anything. When I plugged the jack in the unit, it was still using the internal mic and it was working fine. After a reboot, it started using the car microphone.
@marchnz If you're talking about the buck converter, it's a LM2596. What you wrote is above my current understanding of electronics.
@RPG0 Your setup looks clean but once you are happy with it then do remember to wrap in some wiring harness tape so it's not just wires all over the place and the wires don't get damaged over time. Your regulator needs some kind of enclosure or tape up with kapton tape to prevent any shorts and the like. I used the cigarette lighter connector - you can easily crimp a tap-off if you need ACC. There is also ACC going to the unit - it's the red or yellow wire in the harness that dasaita provides. I reused a power supply for one of these crappy mirror units my dad had in his car - it turned out to inject the least noise from what I had on hand. Once you find the perfect resistance for this I might just do the same for my setup.
@marchnz LM7805 works by wasting the energy to reach that specific voltage (e.g. 5V). Higher the gap between the input and the output - the more heat dissipated. If the upstream is noisy it may not be good enough to filter out the noise at specific frequencies. Some switch mode power supplies have really come a long way and with a switching regulator you really need to massage it to make it smooth. It's the easiest option for most people out there. Even using the LM7805 after a good switching regulator that would be better - you avoid overloading your linear regulator and you killed a lot of the input noise in the switching regulator. If you have a good idea on how to obtain nice stable noise free voltage then we would like to hear it.
I ordered a Daisata 12V to 6V supply intended for original Toyota reversing cameras from the Daisata official store to see if this is something to recommend for the microphone amp power supply. When it arrives and I manage to upgrade the harness with it then I will keep you posted on it. I would assume this what the original Toyota unit would do - with a 6V rail to power the mic and the reversing camera.
I managed to use to use 2 overkill spdt relays to switch video the other day so I can look at the rearview cam when not reversing the car. AV IN does support AHD 720p (no surprise there). Also, I have a nice aftermarket parking sensor setup that outputs to the Canbus to show up on the Daisata screen fooling the unit into thinking I have a parking clearance ecu when I reverse.
@nxdesign I think the current 5.6K is close to perfection.
It was a bit too loud and seemed to clip, but I went into factory settings and set the mic gain to 0 (it was 12 before). Now its still loud enough but also very clear, sounds like talking on the phone.
@nxdesign, 7805/linear vs switched mode/buck - is not about "modern", I suggest using a linear regulator to keep switching regulator noise OUT of the head unit or at least adequately decoupled. Vehicle supply noise you refer to are of low frequency component, while switching is high frequency, so you move the problem either UP or out of the audio spectrum, but it's still there, you just don't hear it. Not good for your head unit though.
I really don't need a lecture in powersupply design, and since you've mentioned that you're buying an aliexpress camera DC regulator, you'll likely be buying a linear regulator - and probably of basic level of electronics.
None of the circuit ideas listed above consider switching noise, nor do they DC block or Noise block / decouple the mic signal to the headunit.
I've had working Toyota factor mic for a couple of years now, creating a similar but properly decoupled and filtered solution a couple of years back.
Finally: decouple the signal to the headunit with a 0.1uF capacitor.
@marchnz I did test a decoupling capacitor on the mic input and it did not improve anything for me. But your consideration is valid and I will add it back when I can. I do decouple off where the power supply gets its 12v and 100nf ceramic is the right capacitor to use. The head unit USB socket 5V was too noisy - any idea why that is and if normal? Will try LM7805 too when I have the chance but right now my setup seems to work fine.
This is what I ordered but my impression is this is just another switching power supply... I'll post pics when I get it.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000340322513.html
@marchnz I just did the same thing for the factory mic on my Juke. That one also needs 5V power, if anyone finds this, but only one signal wire.
This time I followed your advice and put a 0.2uF capacitor in series with a 10Kohm resistance because I saw the Juke has mic signal around the 2V area, so it needed DC removal for sure. It works fine.
I think you are both right and wrong about the need of a capacitor.
The CHR factory mic has mic+ and mic- wires which indicate to me there is no DC so no cap needed for DC removal. Unlike the Juke that has only one mic signal back and it's at 2V +/- 0.5V or so.
Used an oscilloscope to confirm and indeed with a cap this went down to AC level.
...Or I might be completely wrong, but both worked for my cars
Edit: Microphone was clipping in fact, changed resistor to 120Kohm, now it's fine. This is for the Juke, with a "Tesla style" unit
@RPG0 could you, please, draw a simple schematic of your wiring? I have done the same wiring on my Nissan and a Pioneer Multimedia source without capacitor and resistance and I get a lot of noise in the mic signal, so I will try adding resistance and capacitor.
A simple em272 did perfectly the job, I set this one at the genuine mic position in a qashqai j11. Mic setting is 5 but I'm going to lower it...