Develop Bugs

[Guide] LG Nitro HD teardown/lcd replacement

http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1019364&stc=1&d=1335128382
Usually when i get a new phone i look around the web for a guide to replace the lc just incase i ever need to...well, after much searching, i never found a guide for the LG Nitro it must just not be as popular a phone as i thought. So i used my own Nitro to make a guide to replacing the LCD screen...
Tools you will need: #00 Phillips screw driver & plastic prying tool (a guitar pic will also suffice)
http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1019365&stc=1&d=1335128382
The easiest way i found to get the back off of the phone is start at the mouth receiver using a finger nail move around both sides popping the tabs out...then kinda jiggle the top off...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1019366&stc=1&d=1335128382
Remove all 9 screws highlighted by the red "O"
The piece highlighted yellow is a plastic cover you need to remove first best pop the bottom up like you did the back of the phone and slide it down comes off easy goes back hard
http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1019367&stc=1&d=1335128382
this is wat the piece should look like wen you get it off...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1019382&stc=1&d=1335129363
The area highlighted the yellow/green color is another plastic cover the needs to be removed. I started at the bottom left side of the phone and again wen around it with my thumb nail to pop the tabs...there may come a point you may have to apply a little bit of force to pull the tabs
CAUTION while trying to remove this piece the LDC tries to come up due to a little adhesive holding the piece down you do not want that to bend too much
Also be cautious of the volume and power buttons as they WILL fall out and you WILL lose them (like i did for hours) if you dont mind them..below is wat they look like
http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1019383&stc=1&d=1335129363
You now will be able to see the control board....Fun Fact there are extra antenna plugins aswell as an extra ribbon plugin....wonder Y?
Next step is to unplug all the ribbon cables highlighted in yellow as well as the wifi antenna, not all the ribbons need to be unplugged just the highlighted
After (not before) you unplug the cables remove the four screws highlighted by the "O"
http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1019384&stc=1&d=1335129363
The camera (center) and headphone jack (bottom left) can be easily removed
just by pulling them out...below is wat they look like...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1019385&stc=1&d=1335130305
http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1019387&stc=1&d=1335130305
Next removing the Control Board u may have trouble getting it lose from the touch screen around the area pointed to be the orange arrow aswell keep an eye on the touch screen ribbon as it is very flimsy pointed to by the green arrow
http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1019388&stc=1&d=1335130305
http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1019389&stc=1&d=1335130305
Now to remove the touch screen to access the LCD...bend back the ight blue highlighted ribbon and seperate the two pieces that are the touch screen and the plastic piece holding the LCD and digitizer
Highlighted in red is a small rubber piece holding the touch screen ribbon down...below is a picture of the peice
http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1019390&stc=1&d=1335130305
Here is a pic of the touch screen removed...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1019392&stc=1&d=1335130305
CAUTION THE LCD ISNT HELD IN VERY GOOD SO WATCH OUT FOR IT TO FALL OUT OF THE DIGITIZER WHERE ITS HIGHLIGHTED IN YELLOW
http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1019393&stc=1&d=1335131305
http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1019394&stc=1&d=1335131305
Highlighted here in yellow is the ribbon to the LCD starting where the connecter is to the ribbon peal off all of the highlighted area
Careful here is where the ribbon is bent so dont peal to fast of it could rip
Remove the black square holding down the ribbon and pull the ribbon through the slot to the side where the LCD is and it should come right out of the digitizer...(I dont have a pic of the one but its pretty obvious at this point wat to do)
I hope this helps somone like me that just couldnt find the answer they were looking for....good day!
s1im

Wow, this is really interesting, I wonder if any hardware mods could be accomplished using those extra antenna plugins?

I was hoping somone would notice it and maybe tinker around with one...
there are at least 2 antenna plugs that i saw open...

What kind of antenna plugin mods are there out there?

Could be nfc
Sent from my LG-P930 using XDA

Anyone know if the Nitro HD uses a Wolfson DAC?

996gt2 said:
Anyone know if the Nitro HD uses a Wolfson DAC?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, the sound quality through 3.5mm is too poor to be anything by wolfson.

996gt2 said:
Anyone know if the Nitro HD uses a Wolfson DAC?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We asked, and not once, but twice, http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1634388 http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1510927 Seems noone knows
And what camera sensor used noone knows either

By any chance, does anyone know how to separate the glass front from the frame it is inside of? The replacement digitizer I bought is only the glass piece without the frame.
---------- Post added at 06:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:01 PM ----------
PhilLee said:
By any chance, does anyone know how to separate the glass front from the frame it is inside of? The replacement digitizer I bought is only the glass piece without the frame.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I mean touchscreen, I guess.

Thank you very much for a very detail instruction.
I successfully replaced my screen within 20 minutes.
Everything looks brand new now.
Very appreciate your effort!

this is really cool...what could (possibly) be done with all this new information?

any ideas on how to replace the digitizer? Only the digitizer without the frame...

You wanna get rid of the at&t logo, don't u?
Sent from my GT-I9300

actually I broke my screen and ordered a replacement from ebay but what I got was the digitizer+frame for su640 which does not fit on my p930. So I was wondering if i can just replace the glass

What type of screws are used?

MrUncondensed said:
What type of screws are used?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What exactly do you mean? All the screws you will need are already in the phone. The only thing that swaps is the digitizer and housing; everything else goes back.

lordcheeto03 said:
What exactly do you mean? All the screws you will need are already in the phone. The only thing that swaps is the digitizer and housing; everything else goes back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
He's asking what kind of screwdriver he needs. Some phones (cough cough iPhone) use custom screws to try to deter you from opening it.
I'm guessing the Nitro uses standard Philips head screws.

MrUncondensed said:
What type of screws are used?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pulling the battery cover off of mine shows that it has Phillips head screws.
Sent from my LG-P930 using xda premium

drumist said:
He's asking what kind of screwdriver he needs. Some phones (cough cough iPhone) use custom screws to try to deter you from opening it.
I'm guessing the Nitro uses standard Philips head screws.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Didn't think about that. Also, it's been a few weeks since I used this guide and I thought it showed the screws, so my apologies.
Yes, they are all small phillips heads.

I edited the original post to show the only 2 tools you would need is a #00 Phillips screw driver and a plastic opening tool or guitar pic is helpful
I also saw a question asking could the glass be separate from the front housing the answer is not safely enough to reuse if anyone else buys a digitizer replacement that does not fit the back housing perfectly it needs to be returned

My experience fixing Xperia PLAY phones.

In addition to the constant influx of iPods and iPhones friends, family, and coworkers bring me to fix, I've taken apart a few different Xperia PLAY phones more times than I can count, so I thought I'd give a few "pro tips" to people who need to know the ins and outs of it. This isn't a disassembly, assembly, or even a repair guide, it's just the stuff I think those guys missed.
First, don't use a heat gun to loosen the adhesive on the front glass + digitizer. The plastic frame wrinkles and melts readily, particularly right under the face buttons.
Second, make sure you transfer as much as possible when you replace the frame. Replacement frames usually do not include the rubber shroud for the proximity sensor and it will not work right without it. I had one phone that seemingly worked fine until the screen protector peeled off while inserting in a pocket and then no amount of clear tape, screen protectors, or Sharpie-marking would fix it. A salvaged rubber shroud fixed it right up. Some replacement frames have a film-backed adhesive for holding it there and some don't. It probably depends on when they were yanked from the manufacturing line, assuming that they are original parts and not replica parts. You also want to make sure you transfer are the inner dust gasket that goes underneath the frame/glass or else things will be filling up with dust quickly. There is no speaker grill and the foam around it does not stop intrusion. A salvaged frame/glass adhesive is likely to allow dust in unless you didn't have to pick much out of it when swapping (usually glass shards). There are also little metallic grounding foam rectangles crammed in the corners that only one replacement frame I've seen has ever included (was probably salvage though listed as "new"). They probably aren't necessary and I've gone long periods without them, but why wonder if a static charge build up is responsible for your erratic touch screen?
Next, be extremely careful separating the glass from the frame. I've managed to crack good ones even going slowly and leaving gaps filled with picks and pry tools. Heat didn't seem to help much and, as mentioned earlier, is discouraged. Cleaning the screen after man-handling it isn't always easy, but don't avoid touching the back side because you will probably need the area to spread the pressure and avoid a crack. I use a levered "mini suction cup" from Harbor Freight on the top side and as many fingers as spread out as I can on the bottom, but the suction cup is near useless on a cracked screen (even tape-coated). I do suggest covering a shattered screen with tape to hold all the bits together but you are still going to have a hard time cleaning the adhesive up. You can always buy a frame with digitizer pre-installed but I know a lot of you want to buy complete replacement housings instead and it's kind of a waste, but at least you don't need to worry about that adhesive (still: don't forget to transfer the other bits!).
The digitizer parts I've salvaged from phones had higher version numbers than the ones I've seen sold as replacement parts and seemed to be more erratic so I prefer salvaged ones. There can be other problems as well. The flat flex cable from the digitizer is supposed to have an adhesive backing that holds it still where it connects to the tiny cable from the earpiece. Replacements often do not have it, which is yet ANOTHER reason to prefer salvage parts. It may not seem like such a big deal considering that there is a black plastic piece screwed down over it to protect it from getting caught in the mechanism, but the connector does not hold on very well and the phone will not boot if it is slightly out of alignment. If you reassemble it and just get a buzz from the vibration motor with no display and no other sign of booting, check this connection (same thing if the digitizer suddenly stops registering touch). Even a small drop/impact will cause it to happen again, so I recommend securing it with precisely cut tape or hot glue (stay clear of the sliding rails).
Now, keep it clean while you work or you will be staring at that contaminate or thumbprint for a long time. I usually wear fresh latex gloves when working on the glass but it doesn't do much good if you keep transferring oils from the rest of the phone. Wash your hands right before you start and clean the outside of the phone. Before you begin, try just touch a used dish soap dispenser with a damp thumb and run all along to screen except the buttons and earpiece. Do it again with just the damp thumb (dilutes the soap that remained from the first pass) and wipe it with a clean lint-free cloth. Your own clean and dry fingertips/palm should readily absorb any remaining streaks/oils. Be sure to wipe down the rest of the phone too and don't transfer it back to the glass. Once inside I use layer after layer of clear tape to lift gunk from the earpiece (no mesh, remember?). Put on new gloves before you start handling the glass after disassembly, even if you were wearing some for disassembly. To clean the back of the glass I put the adhesive between wax paper while I clean using lint-free cloths, 90+% alcohol, and acetone. For the LCD, use tape to lift most contaminates and resort to alcohol + lint-free cloth if that doesn't work. It doesn't need to be too perfect, especially if scratched from cracked glass. Most imperfections only show when it's off.
Hot glue is great for removing adhesive screw covers without showing pick marks or other signs of tampering but you have to make sure to leave an edge exposed so that you aren't just picking it out of the glue instead. I've been getting mine off cleanly without any tricks like this but it came in handy when I was first disassembling one and there weren't any guides to tell me that there weren't screws under the large silver strip (just covers rivets or injections mold points, IIRC). It's also good for sealing off water sensors, like the one you see through a hole under the battery door. There's another one by the contacts on the battery itself, one by the microphone under the gamepad, and one in the opposite corner under the PS Certified logo. I had an AT&T rep tell me that a brand new phone had a tripped water sensor (LIES!) so I would look for ways to do this with most any new phone.
I can't count how many times I've left the power button out while reassembling. It's not usually that I forgot: It's that it falls out while snapping the back on. I've left the face buttons out a few times too.
My first one had the cable folded wrong after reassembly. It still worked fine for a couple years but did eventually require replacement. Once it folds wrong it'll probably stay that way even after correct reassembly (like mine did). Do not try to attach it to the main PCB using a spudger, butterknife, or whatever to awkwardly push the connector down with everything pulled apart. The only thing you need to do is to slide the cable into the phone's closed position, align the plastic posts on the connector with the corresponding holes on the PCB, and then push down on the PCB until it snaps. I'm sure I tried this first back then but chickened out because the connector didn't snap very easily but that is how you are supposed to do it.
Before I talk about the replacing the slide cable, I want to express my annoyance at all the eBay/YouTube/iFixIt.com people who call it a "flex cable." I don't like the term flex cable because generally ALL cables should be flexible and that doesn't distinguish what it is well enough for people looking for the part. Technically, it's a flat cable or a slide cable, though I wouldn't object to it being called a flex PCB (flex PCBs usually have components other than just connectors like a rigid printed circuit board would). "Flex cable" is silly, redundant, and does not describe anything more specific than just "cable." To complicate matters, there are several actual flex PCBs in this phone to distinguish from when ordering the part. Why did so many people start calling flex PCBs "flex cables" in the first place?! In our case the sliding portion is a *flat* cable, so I can see where "cable" was introduced from, but people say "flex cable" for any flat cable made like a flex PCB these days whether fixed or sliding. At least you know now that you are probably going to have to use the incorrect terminology to find what you want online and sift through many useless results.
*whew*
Now, slide cable replacement is easier than it would seem but intact removal isn't and brand new replacements can be defective. It was a troubleshooting nightmare when I encountered a defective one because I replaced the LCD and glass + digitizer at the same time and suspected/checked everything else first, even taking apart my personal phone multiple times to test parts. The plastic part of the connector on the PCB end must be transferred to the new cable and the old one will not reliably stick back down to it even if you did not contaminate the adhesive. I successfully transferred a cable from a water-damaged phone to my personal phone before fixing up the water-damaged donor phone with a new one, so the adhesive on the salvaged part was weak and I didn't realize how hard it was to remove intact until later. When separating the defective new one there was seemingly no place to pry on one end other than underneath the part where the earpiece/camera connector was located. This broke the side of the connector that holds the locking flap though I was still able to use/lock it. I claimed warranty on the defective part anyway because the connector was not needed for proving the cable was defective (a functional cable works with that connector populated or not). This new part was slightly different from those found originally installed in the phone (different colored plastic connectors and such). The second new one I ordered from elsewhere had double-sided adhesive down the middle, a foil quality control sticker, and the same odd connector colors. I didn't think there was a market for replica parts on this phone but it does seem like more than simple factory revisions. Anyway, removing it involves removing metallic tape then lifting a plate that is still adhered underneath with amber-colored Kapton tape. You can see it from the slide mechanism below. I pinch the plate from above and below with two fingers and lift, gradually peeling the tape which I then fold inside and secure to avoid contaminating the adhesive. The cable has a plastic band across it that fits between fingers on this plate. When secured, this isolates the end with multiple connectors from the movement of the sliding portion, so make sure this is in place when reinstalling. It may be best to avoid removing the adhesive backing paper until after the plate and cable are securely taped back down with both the Kapton and metallic tape while the fingers are holding it in position. If you stick it down first and then secure the plate you may find it slightly too long or short to position inside the plate when securing it all back down. To thread the main connector through the slide board opening it may seem that it will only fit by folding the cable but DON'T! Coil it. Without flattening it, bend the connector 90-degrees over from the cable path and then adjust the angle until you have a coil-shape that you can work through with the connector sideways.
I ordered a "no useable parts" dummy phone just for the heck of it and, other than the Sony Ericsson logo on the fake battery door and maybe the stickers that cover the screws, they really don't have any salvageable parts. You can't swap any buttons, keys, springs, covers, etc into a real phone. The closest would be the face buttons. They will fit in a real phone, but they are too tall and put constant pressure on the PCB switches causing unintended key-presses (especially back and search buttons). The extra height easily protrudes out the top and is not the issue so filing them down vertically won't fix anything. I snipped some excess rubber to more closely match the design of the original buttons but it didn't help. I unscrewed the screw in the corner under the search key and unsnapped the bottom edge of the frame from the back/slide board and they work great until the phone inevitably snaps back together. I'd say they felt better then the original with the extra height (I can't stand how close they are to the screen). It's tolerable with ICS/JB's Navigation Bar (on-screen key functions), but I would rather salvage real buttons or pay too much for the eBay ones ($10-$20; very uncommon part; always sold with crap you probably don't need).
I have yet to find a replacement battery door that includes the rubber trim around the speakers and the foam piece surrounding the rear/noise-canceling microphone. I've ordered a few auctions that show them in the pictures but they always arrive bare. You can transfer them with a razor but it likely won't be perfect. Without them the speaker audio will probably echo around inside the battery compartment and make its way into the mic, though people usually don't notice it. Painting on some Plasti-Dip might do the trick, so try that if it bothers you.
Unlike an iPhone with a million different screws, you don't have to keep track of what goes where and everything is easily accessible. Bare minimum to take it all apart: Some fingernails, a T5 or T6 (pick one) and a PH0, 00, or 000 Phillips (pick one). There don't seem to be any tamper/warranty seals and the only concealed screws are the two obvious ones underneath metallic cover stickers on the display/slide board. There are no screws under tape or labels and no water sensors covering them either. All 6 Phillips screws are the same size but you'll likely want to keep the two with adhesive in their original holes to re-use the covers (adhesive usually remains on the screw instead of the cover). There are only two different Torx screw types but it's obvious what goes where (6 stubby flat ones on the top and bottom, 7 long thin ones around the battery area).
There are bits and bobs taped to and embedded in the rear housing including antenna/RF stuff, some more obvious that others. I've compared and the R800x is very different from the R800at even though the plastic frame looks really similar (R800x has a blocked SIM slot, of course). IMO, any housing swap should be limited to the front frame, the gamepad, and the battery door (only colored parts anyway). If you nicked your chrome, hopefully it was on a button or something that can be swapped (springs are a pain). It may be possible to transfer everything but I wouldn't trust it after all the peeling and picking. The one report I've seen of someone transferring between a GSM/CDMA models seems blissfully unaware of the metal wire behind the volume keys on the CDMA model that isn't there on GSM (at least it's not there on my R800at GSM).
That's all my advice for now. If you are having any trouble, let me know.

Excellent guide, thank you for taking the time to type this up. I think a mod should sticky this.....

Awesome guide! Thanks much for it!
@ozzmanj1 Agree, so more people will notice it.

Thanks for help buddy!!!

As for the case of the digitizer, mine has some parts (lower left) that are not recognizing touch inputs. Will realigning the digitizer cable help? I' d really not want to buy a new one right now as I am quite on a tight budget. Please help. Totally in distress here with my very sickly Play.

So, first I want to say thanks for this post as it's been invaluable in my working on my own XP.
I'm in the process of changing out the LCD and slide cable and am wondering about versions of the phone and compatibility. On Ebay I'm finding lots of parts listed as being for R800i\R800x\R800a. Very few parts are listed for R800at (which is what I have)
In changing out parts (anything hardware related) what parts are interchangeable and what parts are not? Anyone able to help?
Right now I'm looking at LCD screen and slide cable, but in the future I would like to change out the digitizer (I read the other page about having to possibly roll back to a different kernel) and perhaps other inner workings of the phone as well. I would just like to know what I can use from other models of the XP and what are model specific.
Thanks!

Arevyn said:
So, first I want to say thanks for this post as it's been invaluable in my working on my own XP.
I'm in the process of changing out the LCD and slide cable and am wondering about versions of the phone and compatibility. On Ebay I'm finding lots of parts listed as being for R800i\R800x\R800a. Very few parts are listed for R800at (which is what I have)
In changing out parts (anything hardware related) what parts are interchangeable and what parts are not? Anyone able to help?
Right now I'm looking at LCD screen and slide cable, but in the future I would like to change out the digitizer (I read the other page about having to possibly roll back to a different kernel) and perhaps other inner workings of the phone as well. I would just like to know what I can use from other models of the XP and what are model specific.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just about everything but the chrome back housing is a simple swap. LCD, slide cable, digitizer, camera/earpiece, face buttons, game pad, slide board, front frame, camera, headphone jack, etc. The only parts tied together for compatability are the motherboard and the chrome back housing and that is because it has all the antennas installed in it. It's probably possible to move all the components but I've never even had to take the speakers out and can't speak to the difficulty or possibility for certain. I'm worried that lifting the adhesive films would damiage the antennas inside. As I mentioned in the OP, there are other little parts to move when you compare the two and note the differences. Good luck!
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

CZroe said:
Just about everything but the chrome back housing is a simple swap. LCD, slide cable, digitizer, camera/earpiece, face buttons, game pad, slide board, front frame, camera, headphone jack, etc. The only parts tied together for compatability are the motherboard and the chrome back housing and that is because it has all the antennas installed in it. It's probably possible to move all the components but I've never even had to take the speakers out and can't speak to the difficulty or possibility for certain. I'm worried that lifting the adhesive films would damiage the antennas inside. As I mentioned in the OP, there are other little parts to move when you compare the two and note the differences. Good luck!
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome! Thanks so much.
---------- Post added at 06:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:11 PM ----------
CZroe said:
Just about everything but the chrome back housing is a simple swap. LCD, slide cable, digitizer, camera/earpiece, face buttons, game pad, slide board, front frame, camera, headphone jack, etc. The only parts tied together for compatability are the motherboard and the chrome back housing and that is because it has all the antennas installed in it. It's probably possible to move all the components but I've never even had to take the speakers out and can't speak to the difficulty or possibility for certain. I'm worried that lifting the adhesive films would damiage the antennas inside. As I mentioned in the OP, there are other little parts to move when you compare the two and note the differences. Good luck!
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you noticed a difference in an LCD screen with a green cable vs one with an orange cable? I have an orange one in mine, and wasnt sure if its a different part, or just a different batch of screens

Arevyn said:
Awesome! Thanks so much.
---------- Post added at 06:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:11 PM ----------
Have you noticed a difference in an LCD screen with a green cable vs one with an orange cable? I have an orange one in mine, and wasnt sure if its a different part, or just a different batch of screens
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am color blind and never took notice but I switched LCD between R800i, R800x, and R800at and they were all compatible. They have no reason to make anything in that half of the phone different, so they don't.
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

narflynn619 said:
As for the case of the digitizer, mine has some parts (lower left) that are not recognizing touch inputs. Will realigning the digitizer cable help? I' d really not want to buy a new one right now as I am quite on a tight budget. Please help. Totally in distress here with my very sickly Play.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, I've also experience same problems as yours... I just wonder is it the flex cable or digitizer....

matfai said:
Hey, I've also experience same problems as yours... I just wonder is it the flex cable or digitizer....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If only some areas are responsive then I'm pretty sure it's the digitizer. The IC likely encodes the output so that all the raw connections don't need to be extended over the slide cable. IOW, the pins that carry digitizer data probably carry encoded data so that it's fewer pins. This means it would work either all or not at all if the slide cable had anything to do with it.
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

CZroe said:
If only some areas are responsive then I'm pretty sure it's the digitizer. The IC likely encodes the output so that all the raw connections don't need to be extended over the slide cable. IOW, the pins that carry digitizer data probably carry encoded data so that it's fewer pins. This means it would work either all or not at all if the slide cable had anything to do with it.
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for reply... So, do I have to replace the digitizer or just realigning the cable will help?

matfai said:
Thanks for reply... So, do I have to replace the digitizer or just realigning the cable will help?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In my experience, cable alignment has also been an all or nothing issue so you probably need to replace the digitizer. It couldn't hurt to realign the digitizer cable first just in case it can avoid an unnecessary expense. That fixed a Cubot C9+ I worked on Saturday (digitizer not working at all) but not the iPhone 4S I worked on yesterday (bottom row of digitizer not responding).
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

stuck in safe mode after replace slider cable(flex)
Hi i'm writing here in hopes you can help me, i bought and replaced the "flex cable" and it kinda worked, somehow it can only boot in safe mode and back, home and menu buttons on the front is unresponsive (i can use joypad though) i've tried opening it up again to check for loose connectors and i even tried disconnect the cable to the front buttons but safe mode persists, i tried to flash several official ftf images and a custom rom to see if it helped, but also without any luck.
I hope that you can help me.
Thx for a nice indepth post

docsmiley said:
Hi i'm writing here in hopes you can help me, i bought and replaced the "flex cable" and it kinda worked, somehow it can only boot in safe mode and back, home and menu buttons on the front is unresponsive (i can use joypad though) i've tried opening it up again to check for loose connectors and i even tried disconnect the cable to the front buttons but safe mode persists, i tried to flash several official ftf images and a custom rom to see if it helped, but also without any luck.
I hope that you can help me.
Thx for a nice indepth post
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you are booting in safe mode, that "menu" button is always pressed. My guess is faulty/damaged flex cable. You can try your old flex cable and see can you enter flash/fastboot mode (test to see is back and search button is working)

Bakisha said:
If you are booting in safe mode, that "menu" button is always pressed. My guess is faulty/damaged flex cable. You can try your old flex cable and see can you enter flash/fastboot mode (test to see is back and search button is working)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Search button is working as intended (also when booted into safe mode) and i can enter flash mode with back button and flash ftf files, back button is just not functional when booted (only on joypad).
I also figured it had to be the flex cable but i thought i was so carefull when mounting it so i didn't thought i damaged it.
The old flex cable didn't give any picture at all, so can't see if it boots into safe mode with that.

docsmiley said:
Search button is working as intended (also when booted into safe mode) and i can enter flash mode with back button and flash ftf files, back button is just not functional when booted (only on joypad).
I also figured it had to be the flex cable but i thought i was so carefull when mounting it so i didn't thought i damaged it.
The old flex cable didn't give any picture at all, so can't see if it boots into safe mode with that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have received a defective flex cable before so it's possible you have also. In my case it didn't work at all (no picture).
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

Thanks for your replies I'll see if I can get it replaced
Sendt fra min Galaxy S4 med Tapatalk

slide flex replacement
hi, its my second time replacing the slide flex cable of my r800i, however this time, my digitizer is unresponsive to the flex i bought, i bought it in the same store where i bought the first one which was perfectly fine before,
my question is does the slide flex cable of xperia play 4G differs to the slide flex cable of the old one xperia play r800i,

dashu31 said:
hi, its my second time replacing the slide flex cable of my r800i, however this time, my digitizer is unresponsive to the flex i bought, i bought it in the same store where i bought the first one which was perfectly fine before,
my question is does the slide flex cable of xperia play 4G differs to the slide flex cable of the old one xperia play r800i,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They are the same. I have also switched then between a "4G" R800at and a R800x. I have also received bad digitizer flex cables that were new. It really is luck of the draw. A lot of replacement parts on eBay are factory seconds, which may have been removed from the production line for good reason. That's why I always order parts in sets of two for anything I know I will need in the future and I always test both. For example, recently I got two iPhone 4S screens and one had the frame installed upside down. Before that I ordered two replacement iPhone 4 30-pin dock replacements and one had a defective microphone. Before that I ordered two iPod touch 2G digitizer/frame assemblies and one didn't work along the left side.
Here I am identifying a couple bad iPhone displays from a lot:
http://youtu.be/TbxzCiGhwPM
I didn't own an iPhone so I had to test them all with the phone the first customer provided.
Edit: Oh! And make sure the problem is not with the digitizer connection under the black plastic cover. Mine works it's way loose all the time and needs to be secured with tape. Even when inserted fully straight and locked, I put it together and find it not working or the display black until I take it back apart and reseat it. It will twist slightly and even the slightest angle affects the connection.

HTC one x white screen replacement help

I have the HTC ONE X White AT&T, but I'm stuck on on replacing the screen, every video I can find on the internet is for he black version, and I need help with one part. After the motherboard etc was out, I have to remove the screen, I did, but idk if I got the lcd part too, because it is much thinner than the replacement. there is like 3 layers of paper/plastic s and then a gray screen left. Can anyone help? I can send pic I really really need help I don't want to mess this phone up!

Update
I split the LCD in half it looks like, but the digitizer seems to not be working correctly is there a way to repair it? or do I have to buy a new one?

show some picture. DId you buy lcd+digitizer or only lcd?

it was the combo the digitzer cable (the connector) seems to be bad as it is very difficult to connect compared to the one that came with my phone, when it does connect the touch is very very slow and uncalibrated. Pictures are coming

http://imgur.com/LEzw2aN,pzEvG88,BnrSmTl#0 http://imgur.com/LEzw2aN,pzEvG88,BnrSmTl#1 http://imgur.com/LEzw2aN,pzEvG88,BnrSmTl#2 here are some pics

IS there a way I can repair this?

I think you have a one xl (snapdragon) and not an international (tegra) version in which case it would explain why it doesn't fit or work properly.
If you do have the xl codename evita then you are also in the wrong forum my friend and should head over to the HTC one xl forum.

intel007 said:
I think you have a one xl (snapdragon) and not an international (tegra) version in which case it would explain why it doesn't fit or work properly.
If you do have the xl codename evita then you are also in the wrong forum my friend and should head over to the HTC one xl forum.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it says here that it works for both versions though http://www.amazon.com/Display-Digit...qid=1413140433&sr=8-2&keywords=HTC+One+X+AT&T. Every other product had low reviews, is there anywhere I can get a reliable screen replacement?

Pretty much every screen replacement says it doubles up with the HTC One XL. If anyone can help it is greatly appreciated.

can I use the old cable? somehow

Look here mate: http://www.etradesupply.com/htc/android-models/htc-one-x.html
I recently got a HTC screen here and it's perfect & original

Eric4753 said:
can I use the old cable? somehow
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
The LCD on the One X and the XL can be different, there is a Sony and a Sharp version which aren't interchangable, but the Digitizer should be essentially the same, as the connectors are identical.
That said, I have come across a dodgy digitizer that was brand new before, and it occasionally does happen. If you want to tell the difference between the sharp and sony version of the LCD, the sharp version gas a green backing to the LCD flex cable while the sony has an orange/yelloy backing to the flex cable, check the attachment i've posted, the one on the left is sony, the one on the right is sharp. It is possible that you have a bad digitizer, but i take it that the LCD works. If thats the case check the connector pins on the main board to make sure they are not damaged (do the same for the digitizer) if it looks ok, and the digitizer is still playing up, i'd try and get a replacement.
Hope this helps

Well I got the thing back together, but I have problems mainly that I'm getting no signal, lastly what thickness of tape should I get?

You may need to open it up again and check everything is connected properly and that it's seated correctly in its rear shell, as there are contacts on the mainboard that touch the antenna mounted inside the shell, hopefully the phone is recognizing the sim and network.
I'm not sure what you want the tape for, could you explain?

We used carpenter's tape, because the tape we supposed to be supplied with didn't come in and the customer is in a rush, I was just asking what should be the thickness of the tape etc

Sorry, I wanted to know what you were going to use tape for, if it was to keep digitizer stuck to frame, I'd use the smallest amount of instant adhesive, being careful not to allow it to run under the glass, where you would see it when you press it down

We'll the screen is almost sticking out of the case despite this being the strongest tape I've ever run into, so I'll guess I'll need thinner tape I just don't want to take everything apart AGAIN and retape. It's a pain to do So should I remove the tape and use glue? Or get thinner tape?

If it's for the back of the LCD get the thinnest double sided tape you can, preferably something reputable like 3m as this is what's going to hold everything in place, if it's the digitizer, I'd use adhesive the tiniest drop in each corner and in the middle of each side, then press until it sets, you just have to be careful as if you use too much it can run from under the glass, and be visible.
---------- Post added at 04:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:44 PM ----------
Just as a tip, you can get a replacement mid frame that already has the 3m tape on it, but I still like to put adhesive on the edges of frame where digitizer sits as sometimes the pressure of putting everything back in the shell can make it pop up.

Well upon taking it back apart the lcd, it got ripped like the bottom half of it is stuck to the tape the top half on the case and there are a bunch of white sheets etc in between them. now should I order a new one or can I repair this? its split in half, nothing is ripped. I'm about to just order a phone off amazon at this point.

You will have to get a new one, look at the videos on YouTube, there are plenty to help, but make sure you keep old one to change over as the phone needs to be turned on to do the LCD change. but if it's really damaged, you cash pick up a used one x reasonably cheaply, but the one m7 or m8 are great phones.

[q] lcd replacement procedure needed

Well, after a couple of weeks with my shiny new ZE551ML (RAM 2GB) purchased overseas in a trip, today the big bastard fell and cracked the glass .
So a new screen (complete screen, even if touch and LCD still works but don't want to mess with heat gun) is on the way via Aliexpress, I've done some similar procedures on more complicated phones but can't find any official procedure or documentation for this one, maybe too new?
So anyone has a PDF or webpage with the procedure?
Best I could find is this, but many pictures are missing
http://www.ewisetech.com/Pages/Product/teardown.aspx?s=1961&dt=6820&img=65699
EDIT: See post #6

http://www.myfixguide.com/manual/asus-zenfone-2-teardown/
Bout the best one available at the moment. Looks fairly simple to do, especially if you are replacing the entire screen assembly, not just the glass.

Sammaul said:
http://www.myfixguide.com/manual/asus-zenfone-2-teardown/
Bout the best one available at the moment. Looks fairly simple to do, especially if you are replacing the entire screen assembly, not just the glass.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, at least it's better than the one I found. But no specifics instructions on replacing the screen (separating the last housing from the old panel. Glue? Heat Gun? Double tape?)

gipikay said:
Thanks, at least it's better than the one I found. But no specifics instructions on replacing the screen (separating the last housing from the old panel. Glue? Heat Gun? Double tape?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do not know unfortunately. I would think it is tape, as most tend to be tape, but I couldn't say for certainty.

If you would like to set up an Out-of-Warranty RMA for ASUS to repair please send me a private message at [email protected].
Or you may apply for an RMA online at http://www.asus.com/us/support/
Please ensure to mention the damage otherwise it will be rejected if received with no reported damage.
Sincerely,
Frank
ASUS_USA

Here's an album I've used to replace my screen, (pictures are from the first link I've posted before) there are a couple of things to consider that aren't one these pictures nor any on the internet and don't make the sames mistakes I did. If you have pictures, and working screens from a different seller, please post it and I'll add it to the thread .
http://imgur.com/a/Rmy02
The tools I've used are screwdriver, a metal spudger, double-tape for cellphone repair, and a heat gun. And of course, your replacement screen. In my case I've purchased for 30 dol. on Aliexpress, but did not come with adhesive or tape so you have to have your own.
To remove the first section (4th picture), not only do you need to remove the cover and black and silver screws, but be careful because the center "rails" (the plastic parts to the sides of where the double sim and sd-card are) of the section are fixed to the battery section with "light" double tape, nothing too strong and can be lifted with care.
In the 5th picture, lift the white part of the connector and very carfeully to remove the ribbon. I've made the mistake to be too forceful and cracked the black part a litlle bit.
WARNING! THIS STEP IS THE MOST DIFFICULT, MANY PEOPLE BREAK THEIR BATTERY WHEN REMOVING, SO BE CAREFUL. AGAIN, YOU'VE BEEN WARNED
Now, one of the most difficult parts of the teardown is between 5th and 6th picture. After removing the uppers ribbon you have to take the battery compartment, and let me tell you that the white double-tape that glues the battery to the frame is one of the strongest i've ever encountered. A metal spudger can be helpful and you can start with pressing the left side, but don't separate too much or go too deep cause you might damage the envelope of the battery (I scrapped and exposed a litlle bit of the cells, but for the moment the phone works and don't heat. Just in case, I already ordered a new battery) . So be extra careful on this step.
In the 7th picture, things looks a little different of what I've found, the upper board has a metal protection that's soldered so DON'T TAKE IT OUT! Remove the upper left small ribbon very carefully. The cables on the down board that connects to the vibration motor are very fragile so be careful.
At this point, you can remove the speaker (I didn't) and you have the upper section, so the real hard work starts to be able to replace your screen. I'm sorry but i didn't take many pictures of this procedure, but again a metal spudger was helpful to be able to separate the cracked screen from the frame.
Remove all pieces of glue, glass or residue that's still on the frame and put the first part of the double-tape on the frame but don't take the upper part just yet. Take the replacement part and check it fits on the frame, paying atention to the two ribbons, one in the middle and other in the upper side. In my case, when I did put the screen I started with the upper ribbon and then guided the middle ribbon to it's hole and then fit the screen to the frame.
Make all the steps in backward order to be able to re-assemble the phone. The final optional step I did, is to seal the double-tape in the screen with the heat gun and some weight (I used a 2.5 drive and a couple of 3.5)
So in the end, I managed to replace the screen with only a couple of small mistakes. When my new battery arrives, the steps will be similar (I removed the white strong double tape with a light adhesive one, so it will be more easy to remove and replace the battery).
All in all, it went pretty well
LIST OF SELLERS WITH WORKING PARTS, according to users
AliExpress - Shenzhen OMG Trade co.,LTD - Screen For ZE551ML - USD 22.39 - gipikay (OP)

Nice to see someone succeeded, I laughted at the big hard drive lol Those 3.5'' HDs are huge. 30$ for the 5.5'' 1080p screen is pretty good, there are for 20$ too.
I tried once replacing an iphone 4 lcd but the problem ended up to be the motherboard.
btw Does anyone know where is the Intel GSM modem located on the motherboard? I see nothing from those pictures about the modem. I could not find a reliable way of disabling it, tried scripts, deleting dial etc apks and /lib/ril files, cellphone still searches for signal with no sim inserted and airplane mode on.

Back when I ordered, this one was the cheapest and the only one for ZE551ML (now the same vendor lists the screen as USD 25).
If I could guess, the modem should be in the upper board, under the metal shielding (the stock pictures indicates two visibles intel chips under the enclosure, maybe a third in the right, and one down in the board)

Thanks, so will it need to be unsoldered for removal? I only use voip and cannot use gsm anyway.

Experienced basically the exact the same when i changed my display essambly. I broke the foil around the battery too, only problem is I can not find any vendor selling a replacement battery. Can you give me a hint where to buy it?
Thanks in advance!
Gesendet von meinem ASUS_Z00AD mit Tapatalk

gipikay said:
Back when I ordered, this one was the cheapest and the only one for ZE551ML (now the same vendor lists the screen as USD 25).
If I could guess, the modem should be in the upper board, under the metal shielding (the stock pictures indicates two visibles intel chips under the enclosure, maybe a third in the right, and one down in the board)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you replace the glass only, or the entire screen assembly?

gettohhole said:
Experienced basically the exact the same when i changed my display essambly. I broke the foil around the battery too, only problem is I can not find any vendor selling a replacement battery. Can you give me a hint where to buy it?
Thanks in advance!
Gesendet von meinem ASUS_Z00AD mit Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is the one I've ordered, even if it says for ZE550ML (mine is 551) the part number and battery is the same (I think the difference between models is the screen resolution)
EDIT: I leave the link, but this seller sent me the wrong battery, see post #21. Now I'm waiting for AsusParts to ship me a new replacement
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free...ENT-BATTERY-C11P1424-3000MAH/32396187338.html
Sammaul said:
Did you replace the glass only, or the entire screen assembly?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Entire screen replaced, to separate the glass is really difficult

gipikay said:
This is the one I've ordered, even if it says for ZE550ML (mine is 551) the part number and battery is the same (I think the difference between models is the screen resolution)
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free...ENT-BATTERY-C11P1424-3000MAH/32396187338.html
Entire screen replaced, to separate the glass is really difficult
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you install 550 screen on 551 phone, it's possible you must install rom for 550 on 551, the big difference is the dpi.

I was just commenting on batteries. My phone is 551 and used a 551 replacement LCD, no differences there

Ok sorry just my bad english

gipikay said:
This is the one I've ordered, even if it says for ZE550ML (mine is 551) the part number and battery is the same (I think the difference between models is the screen resolution)
Entire screen replaced, to separate the glass is really difficult
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
gipikay said:
I was just commenting on batteries. My phone is 551 and used a 551 replacement LCD, no differences there
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you test it already? Does work?
Sent from my ZE551ML

gettohhole said:
Did you test it already? Does work?
Sent from my ZE551ML
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The new battery has not arrived yet
But a couple of scares aside ( if I completely drain the battery, it takes a litlle longer to reach minimal charge to power on ), the old battery seem to hold for the moment.
EDIT: See post #21, the sellers sent me the wrong battery, I think it's for Zenfone 5. Now I'm waiting for AsusParts to ship me a new replacement

Be careful
If anyone tries this, use extreme caution. I exposed some cells on the battery and a little smoke came out. I don't really know what to do from here because I'm afraid to continue this further. I guess I'm out of a 300 dollar phone and 30 dollar screen

Hi all
I ordered ZE551ML for my ZE550ML .... and the person already shipped so couldn't change the order
is it ok or i have to ship it back?
is it only PPI and resolution ?

Hi guys
Failed ... Got the 551ML and mounted on 550ML
Screen turns on but no Asus initial logo etc... Is not working
Mounted all out of the box... Not removing completely the broken screen.
Main board and battery connectors only.
You guys think anything can help ?

Camera not focusing

I have had it with this junk phone. I bought it when it first came out and have had nothing but problems. First the gps, the overheating, the audio jack and now my camera refuses to focus on anything. Has anyone else had camera problems? The lens is clean and I can't see anything under the lens. I've cleared the app data.

Sir Westicles said:
I have had it with this junk phone. I bought it when it first came out and have had nothing but problems. First the gps, the overheating, the audio jack and now my camera refuses to focus on anything. Has anyone else had camera problems? The lens is clean and I can't see anything under the lens. I've cleared the app data.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are not alone bro. I also got mine when it was released. My camera stopped focusing about 3 months ago. No hardware issues as far as scratches on lens, dirt, or abuse.
This phone had so much potential, but I've had all the same issues as you. And to add to it, this is the 1st Android phone I've had since my 1st Android, the HTC Evo, that I wasn't able to root.
I'm pretty much done with LG branded phones after this. I'm just waiting for the Pixel 2 to come out to replace this one with, and I'm only dealing with Google phones from then on.

mistermidas said:
You are not alone bro. I also got mine when it was released. My camera stopped focusing about 3 months ago. No hardware issues as far as scratches on lens, dirt, or abuse.
This phone had so much potential, but I've had all the same issues as you. And to add to it, this is the 1st Android phone I've had since my 1st Android, the HTC Evo, that I wasn't able to root.
I'm pretty much done with LG branded phones after this. I'm just waiting for the Pixel 2 to come out to replace this one with, and I'm only dealing with Google phones from then on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dont get the Pixel XL its a v30 slightly downgraded but LG is making the XL
The standard Pixel 2 will be made by HTC

TheMadScientist said:
Dont get the Pixel XL its a v30 slightly downgraded but LG is making the XL
The standard Pixel 2 will be made by HTC
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I know about the xl being made by LG. Thats why i want the normal Pixel 2. I'm done with lg. As much as i loved lg from the optimus up to the g5.. they totally let me down with this phone.

My main camera also stopped focusing, have only had my phone about six months. I ordered the UniFix G5 camera repair kit off of Amazon for about $30. Came with slightly better quality tools than most cheap "freebie" kits included with parts.
Powered the phone off, removed SIM tray and the battery along with the chin. Unscrewed the two screws at bottom of the display. Carefully lifted display assembly up around edges (seems easier to start lifting at the screw hole opposite SIM tray first.) Once display is separated, the main camera can detach just by unsnapping the ribbon cable connector from the board and sliding the module down and out.
I noted the broken original camera module had the text "Y574A" and the UniFix module had the text "Y574B" on it. The housing is also slightly different. Hopefully this means this is a more durable hardware "B" revision. First day using it has been good as new, will update if it goes out again.

PhantasmRezound said:
My main camera also stopped focusing, have only had my phone about six months. I ordered the UniFix G5 camera repair kit off of Amazon for about $30. Came with slightly better quality tools than most cheap "freebie" kits included with parts.
Powered the phone off, removed SIM tray and the battery along with the chin. Unscrewed the two screws at bottom of the display. Carefully lifted display assembly up around edges (seems easier to start lifting at the screw hole opposite SIM tray first.) Once display is separated, the main camera can detach just by unsnapping the ribbon cable connector from the board and sliding the module down and out.
I noted the broken original camera module had the text "Y574A" and the UniFix module had the text "Y574B" on it. The housing is also slightly different. Hopefully this means this is a more durable hardware "B" revision. First day using it has been good as new, will update if it goes out again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Man the hell with doing all THAT! I'm not a phone tech, I just want the damn phone to work like it's supposed to. I've had literally 2 handfuls of Android phones in my life and this is the only one ever to stop focusing. If you have to basically tear a phone apart just for it to work how it should, it's not a phone worth keeping imo ...Which is why I'm getting rid of this mf once the pixel 2 drops.

mistermidas said:
Man the hell with doing all THAT! I'm not a phone tech, I just want the damn phone to work like it's supposed to. I've had literally 2 handfuls of Android phones in my life and this is the only one ever to stop focusing. If you have to basically tear a phone apart just for it to work how it should, it's not a phone worth keeping imo ...Which is why I'm getting rid of this mf once the pixel 2 drops.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you can afford a new phone, more power to you. Just putting it out there that if you're out of warranty, $30 and 5 minutes can fix the issue (and keep the resale value of the phone higher.) IMO a phone that is simpler to work on than changing a car tire is worth keeping.

PhantasmRezound said:
My main camera also stopped focusing, have only had my phone about six months. I ordered the UniFix G5 camera repair kit off of Amazon for about $30. Came with slightly better quality tools than most cheap "freebie" kits included with parts.
Powered the phone off, removed SIM tray and the battery along with the chin. Unscrewed the two screws at bottom of the display. Carefully lifted display assembly up around edges (seems easier to start lifting at the screw hole opposite SIM tray first.) Once display is separated, the main camera can detach just by unsnapping the ribbon cable connector from the board and sliding the module down and out.
I noted the broken original camera module had the text "Y574A" and the UniFix module had the text "Y574B" on it. The housing is also slightly different. Hopefully this means this is a more durable hardware "B" revision. First day using it has been good as new, will update if it goes out again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I honestly don't even care anymore about having a phone. I'm done with Sprint now. Haven't had service since January and I really like it. Just use wifi when it's available but it's nice being able to take pictures with this $700 POS. I'll never buy LG again. I may try replacing the camera like you did.

Do you have a link to what you bought on Amazon?

go to google play services and disable body sensors or if you have google fit installed disable heart rate monitor, the autofocus will be normal again.

cheeze.keyk said:
go to google play services and disable body sensors or if you have google fit installed disable heart rate monitor, the autofocus will be normal again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Didn't work for me.

Teitn said:
Didn't work for me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah. it worked for me at first but later on it doesn't focus anymore. it will focus if your shooting upwards. I just ordered a replacement camera.