I have the HTC ONE X White AT&T, but I'm stuck on on replacing the screen, every video I can find on the internet is for he black version, and I need help with one part. After the motherboard etc was out, I have to remove the screen, I did, but idk if I got the lcd part too, because it is much thinner than the replacement. there is like 3 layers of paper/plastic s and then a gray screen left. Can anyone help? I can send pic I really really need help I don't want to mess this phone up!
Update
I split the LCD in half it looks like, but the digitizer seems to not be working correctly is there a way to repair it? or do I have to buy a new one?
show some picture. DId you buy lcd+digitizer or only lcd?
it was the combo the digitzer cable (the connector) seems to be bad as it is very difficult to connect compared to the one that came with my phone, when it does connect the touch is very very slow and uncalibrated. Pictures are coming
http://imgur.com/LEzw2aN,pzEvG88,BnrSmTl#0 http://imgur.com/LEzw2aN,pzEvG88,BnrSmTl#1 http://imgur.com/LEzw2aN,pzEvG88,BnrSmTl#2 here are some pics
IS there a way I can repair this?
I think you have a one xl (snapdragon) and not an international (tegra) version in which case it would explain why it doesn't fit or work properly.
If you do have the xl codename evita then you are also in the wrong forum my friend and should head over to the HTC one xl forum.
intel007 said:
I think you have a one xl (snapdragon) and not an international (tegra) version in which case it would explain why it doesn't fit or work properly.
If you do have the xl codename evita then you are also in the wrong forum my friend and should head over to the HTC one xl forum.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it says here that it works for both versions though http://www.amazon.com/Display-Digit...qid=1413140433&sr=8-2&keywords=HTC+One+X+AT&T. Every other product had low reviews, is there anywhere I can get a reliable screen replacement?
Pretty much every screen replacement says it doubles up with the HTC One XL. If anyone can help it is greatly appreciated.
can I use the old cable? somehow
Look here mate: http://www.etradesupply.com/htc/android-models/htc-one-x.html
I recently got a HTC screen here and it's perfect & original
Eric4753 said:
can I use the old cable? somehow
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
The LCD on the One X and the XL can be different, there is a Sony and a Sharp version which aren't interchangable, but the Digitizer should be essentially the same, as the connectors are identical.
That said, I have come across a dodgy digitizer that was brand new before, and it occasionally does happen. If you want to tell the difference between the sharp and sony version of the LCD, the sharp version gas a green backing to the LCD flex cable while the sony has an orange/yelloy backing to the flex cable, check the attachment i've posted, the one on the left is sony, the one on the right is sharp. It is possible that you have a bad digitizer, but i take it that the LCD works. If thats the case check the connector pins on the main board to make sure they are not damaged (do the same for the digitizer) if it looks ok, and the digitizer is still playing up, i'd try and get a replacement.
Hope this helps
Well I got the thing back together, but I have problems mainly that I'm getting no signal, lastly what thickness of tape should I get?
You may need to open it up again and check everything is connected properly and that it's seated correctly in its rear shell, as there are contacts on the mainboard that touch the antenna mounted inside the shell, hopefully the phone is recognizing the sim and network.
I'm not sure what you want the tape for, could you explain?
We used carpenter's tape, because the tape we supposed to be supplied with didn't come in and the customer is in a rush, I was just asking what should be the thickness of the tape etc
Sorry, I wanted to know what you were going to use tape for, if it was to keep digitizer stuck to frame, I'd use the smallest amount of instant adhesive, being careful not to allow it to run under the glass, where you would see it when you press it down
We'll the screen is almost sticking out of the case despite this being the strongest tape I've ever run into, so I'll guess I'll need thinner tape I just don't want to take everything apart AGAIN and retape. It's a pain to do So should I remove the tape and use glue? Or get thinner tape?
If it's for the back of the LCD get the thinnest double sided tape you can, preferably something reputable like 3m as this is what's going to hold everything in place, if it's the digitizer, I'd use adhesive the tiniest drop in each corner and in the middle of each side, then press until it sets, you just have to be careful as if you use too much it can run from under the glass, and be visible.
---------- Post added at 04:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:44 PM ----------
Just as a tip, you can get a replacement mid frame that already has the 3m tape on it, but I still like to put adhesive on the edges of frame where digitizer sits as sometimes the pressure of putting everything back in the shell can make it pop up.
Well upon taking it back apart the lcd, it got ripped like the bottom half of it is stuck to the tape the top half on the case and there are a bunch of white sheets etc in between them. now should I order a new one or can I repair this? its split in half, nothing is ripped. I'm about to just order a phone off amazon at this point.
You will have to get a new one, look at the videos on YouTube, there are plenty to help, but make sure you keep old one to change over as the phone needs to be turned on to do the LCD change. but if it's really damaged, you cash pick up a used one x reasonably cheaply, but the one m7 or m8 are great phones.
Related
I have searched high and low for an answer on how to replace a scratched screen of the SGS2 by yourself and have finally found the answer.
This will definitely VOID YOUR WARRANTY so don't say you haven't been warned.
I suggest you only use this guide if you were desperate like me. My phone didn't come with an official warranty so I was as good as screwed if I wanted a new screen.
Step 1: Obtain the part
Just ebay for lcd screen and digitizer galaxy s2 (however u may wish to buy it with the faceplate see below note). You want both the super amoled plus screen and the digitizer together. You can get this for about 120-130 USD.
There are some vendors that sell just the 'lens' but you need a specialized machine to replace it and is simply not worth the trouble.
Note that if you go to an original Samsung service centre, when they order the part, it comes together with the face plate and is therefore a breeze to install. This part is for sale on Ebay too. http://cgi.ebay.com/LCD-Touch-Digit...312?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a682b9ad0. I would recommend you to buy this type instead of just the LCD and digitizer.
Follow this disassembly guide (not mine).
Now using a thin metal flat tool with a wide flat surface area, dig at the small gap from the top of the screen and pry the screen from the frontplate. It is held entirely by double-tape so don't worry about any screws, catches. Be careful of not damaging the bezel in the process.
Clean off the old black tape and double tape as best as u can, and be careful of the bottom buttons. The attachment shows how it looks like after cleaning it.
Reapply the double tape in strips and try to shape it to fit as much as you can. This is tiresome but necessary since the adhesive behind the lcd screen is very weak and you don't your screen falling out of you halfway.
Push it in and it should stick. That's it! Then reassemble.
Confirmed working!
thanks for the write up, do you have any more photos of your process?
OMG, it's like watching an autopsy.
Could a better resolution screen or even 3d screen be used/upgraded later on?
Nice to know for something happens, Hope not
Hope wont be necessary. How did you scratch the screen so hard that it had to be changed? I tought the Gorilla Glass is almost unscratchable.
Man,,u shud handle it a bit gently ,,,,i mean,i flinched every time u "threw" the phone on the table.
On second thought, I might as well buy that screen protector
Sent from my GT-I9100 using XDA Premium App
wow that is the definition of T H I N !!!!!
Samsung Galaxy S II 2 i9100 LCD Touch Digitizer Screen
Thanks also full part with bezel here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Samsung-G...062?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3cb9ff0e4e
Samsung Galaxy S II 2 i9100 LCD Touch Digitizer Screen
With Housing Bezel front cover ,Home Button, Flex Cable
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LCD-Touch...669?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3cb9ff0cc5
Samsung Galaxy S II 2 i9100 LCD Touch Digitizer Screen
With Housing Bezel front cover ,Home Button, Flex Cable Without Samsung logo
White house soon on site
psp888 said:
thanks for the write up, do you have any more photos of your process?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately not at this time. I will do it the next time around (which will be soon as there is a slight imperfection with my button sensitivity so I might be inclined to try it again) but trust me it's not a beautiful process. Needs lots of guts. Nothing technical about it. Shove the flat tool in the gap and keep on loosening the glue as much as u can then take it off.
podgo said:
Hope wont be necessary. How did you scratch the screen so hard that it had to be changed? I tought the Gorilla Glass is almost unscratchable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's more like cracked. I dropped it on some rocks from waist height and it cracked. It seems that gorilla glass is not shatter proof. There are also some scratches/mini cracks from where the rocks cut it.
Lesson learnt, get a screen protector that hopefully will reinforce it a bit more.
I wonder how these replacement parts compare to the quality of the original parts.
Is your new screen a Super AMOLED+ screen? all ebay listing just says LCD. Is it original Samsung part?
psp888 said:
Is your new screen a Super AMOLED+ screen? all ebay listing just says LCD. Is it original Samsung part?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There some listed as Super AMOLED+ screen just search on ebay or even drop the sellers a question about their iteams.
It is a Super Amoled + screen (don't see any difference in quality between the old and new one). Most sellers don't really know much of their products unfortunately but they do say it's original and I do believe mine is.
There's no Samsung print on the front plate but it does have a part number which corresponds closely to the original one. Everything else looks exactly the same, even the black sponge at the back and the microchips have Samsung wording on them.
BarryH_GEG said:
OMG, it's like watching an autopsy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have stomach to watch dead bodies, but not a GSII LOL
Dropped SGS2 from bikemount : broken screen.
OK,
I broke my screen this weekend. I was on a bike tour with the SGS2 mounted on the steering bar. For some unclear reason, the universal holder came off the bikemount at 25 kmh... Dropped on the paved road, and although still in the universal holder, which is made of soft rubber (which I would expect to break the fall), the screen of my beloved SGS2 was cracked !!! Apart from the cracked screen, everything else seems to work as before.
So, today I ordered a replacement set with bezel from aliexpress.com at 148USD.
When I get the part, I will try to post some pictures of the replacement process.
I had an HD2 before ... just sold it last Friday :-( ... I think over a period of 1,5 year, I dropped the HD2 about 6 times on hard surfaces ... also it fell off my bike once ... the HD2 never broke.
So, is it just bad luck this time, or is the built quality of the SGS2 just not as good as the HD2 ?
Regards,
DirkB
DirkB19 said:
OK,
I broke my screen this weekend. I was on a bike tour with the SGS2 mounted on the steering bar. For some unclear reason, the universal holder came off the bikemount at 25 kmh... Dropped on the paved road, and although still in the universal holder, which is made of soft rubber (which I would expect to break the fall), the screen of my beloved SGS2 was cracked !!! Apart from the cracked screen, everything else seems to work as before.
So, today I ordered a replacement set with bezel from aliexpress.com at 148USD.
When I get the part, I will try to post some pictures of the replacement process.
I had an HD2 before ... just sold it last Friday :-( ... I think over a period of 1,5 year, I dropped the HD2 about 6 times on hard surfaces ... also it fell off my bike once ... the HD2 never broke.
So, is it just bad luck this time, or is the built quality of the SGS2 just not as good as the HD2 ?
Regards,
DirkB
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is very easy to do. Just unclip each component and transplant it to the new case.
I have to do my friends one this weekend as he has dropped it and damaged the screen and the bezel .
I have managed to source the screen and the bezel for him all as one piece .
Now all the guides i have seen just rip the phone to pieces , surely if we have the right bits like i have bought this fix is very smple to do??
I am thinking it is just a case of undoing the 7 screws at the back of the phone , opening it up and then disconnect the screen cables from the mainboard . Does the whole front then come away??
If not i take it i have to undo the screws on the main board to release the screen? but this means the componets of the main board may come loose etc??
Has anyone that has done this got any info on just swapping the screen with the complete part? when i say complete part i mean the one that comes with the bezel and home button etc like this
http://cgi.ebay.com/LCD-Touch-Digit...312?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a682b9ad0
Thanks in adance for any guidance
buxz777 said:
Has anyone that has done this got any info on just swapping the screen with the complete part? when i say complete part i mean the one that comes with the bezel and home button etc like this
http://cgi.ebay.com/LCD-Touch-Digit...312?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a682b9ad0
Thanks in adance for any guidance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1 for me.
I received my screen including bezel.
I've removed the main board just like the guy in the Youtube video.
But now I still have to transfer (from original front to my new front):
- the bottom PCB (where the microUSB sits)
- the camera
- the speaker
etc ...
I can not find a description/movie of how to do this ?
The bottom PCB for example has 2 screws, but after removing them the PCB itself looks like glued to the front assy'.
I prefer to see or get proper instructions before starting the rest of this adventure
...
PS : I got my part from aliexpress.com within 2 weeks (via airmail). It's with the Samsung logo on it and the package included all required tools (screwdrivers) to do the job. Would be nice to see some written instructions included as well.
Grtz,
DirkB
Hi guys,
I have just broken my Dinc2's glass screen. The underlying LCD screen is still functional and the touch screen works. So, I am guessing that I only broke the glass on the top of the screen... I uploaded pics to make it clear.
The casing near the USB port got bent some time back when I went kayaking... And I think that is where the screen cracked significantly when I dropped the phone.
I can still use the touchscreen and there are no discoloration on the LCD. So, can you guys suggest to me what Screen replacement product I need to buy online and (preferably) give me a link for said product and a How to repair guide. Plus, is this process easy? As in if I spend a few hours carefully following the steps to repair, will I succeed?? Moreover, can I replace the metal casing as well?
Thanks for the help gang! I really need to get my phone back to 100% working condition as I don't have an upgrade available till April '13 and I have cancelled my phone's insurance recently!
EDIT: Does this product help? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0057OO9OC/
http://www.repairsuniverse.com/htc-droid-incredible-2-screen-replacements-repair-parts.html
I just replaced my digitizer for $11 on eBay.
It's an HTC one too (no "Verizon" branding, just "HTC".
It's for an Incredible S, came out of SoCal.
EDIT:
Here's the Digitizer
http://goo.gl/w7Vr0 $12.77
Here's the adhesive (sticker) that HAS to be replaced or it'll lift-up and will allow dust inside. Thus driving you F'ING INSANE. Mine is on order
http://goo.gl/34ylh
-Truckin-
Truckin'Ain't4Sissies said:
I just replaced my digitizer for $11 on eBay.
It's an HTC one too (no "Verizon" branding, just "HTC".
It's for an Incredible S, came out of SoCal.
EDIT:
Here's the Digitizer
http://goo.gl/w7Vr0 $12.77
Here's the adhesive (sticker) that HAS to be replaced or it'll lift-up and will allow dust inside. Thus driving you F'ING INSANE. Mine is on order
http://goo.gl/34ylh
-Truckin-
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I have dust under my screen even though my phone is completely original and never been dropped. Do you think it's worth taking apart, cleaning out, and replacing the adhesive? How long do you think it would take, and what is the likelihood of doing more damage to the phone?
Truckin'Ain't4Sissies said:
I just replaced my digitizer for $11 on eBay.
It's an HTC one too (no "Verizon" branding, just "HTC".
It's for an Incredible S, came out of SoCal.
EDIT:
Here's the Digitizer
http://goo.gl/w7Vr0 $12.77
Here's the adhesive (sticker) that HAS to be replaced or it'll lift-up and will allow dust inside. Thus driving you F'ING INSANE. Mine is on order
http://goo.gl/34ylh
-Truckin-
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought the following on amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GIUHDQ
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0057OO9OC
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002EXHR1Q
I should have probably waited for more replies, like yours, here to get a better product link. Anyway, I guess I bought all the needed parts. I hope I get good quality material and I can get going with the repair... Do you think that they are good? The digitizer and tools didn't ship yet, so I can try and cancel and buy the one from ebay...
I actually just finished doing this a few hours ago. It does take some time to do it but if you have patience you can do it
You have to remove the LCD to remove the digitizer, so you will have all the parts out of the body of the phone. It is easier if you replace the body because it comes with new adhesive already perfectly cut and installed. If you reuse the old one you will have to scrape all the old adhesive off, then cut new adhesive. They are also available in red/silver/black so you can change colors.
Dermen said:
I actually just finished doing this a few hours ago. It does take some time to do it but if you have patience you can do it
You have to remove the LCD to remove the digitizer, so you will have all the parts out of the body of the phone. It is easier if you replace the body because it comes with new adhesive already perfectly cut and installed. If you reuse the old one you will have to scrape all the old adhesive off, then cut new adhesive. They are also available in red/silver/black so you can change colors.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When you say replacing the body, are you referring to the front housing/bezel? That is this: http://www.repairsuniverse.com/htc-droid-incredible-2-front-housing-bezel-replacement.html
If so, where did you buy it, as I want a reliable and reasonably priced product online. Thanks a lot for the help, btw!
litetaker said:
When you say replacing the body, are you referring to the front housing/bezel? That is this: http://www.repairsuniverse.com/htc-droid-incredible-2-front-housing-bezel-replacement.html
If so, where did you buy it, as I want a reliable and reasonably priced product online. Thanks a lot for the help, btw!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is what I was referring to as the body, since all the parts attach to it. I actually got an entire new housing, came with the bezel, the middle part, and a new battery cover since my battery cover was beat up and I was changing colors. The middle part I didn't need but it was cheaper to buy all 3 parts than just 2.
I got it on ebay. The Incredible 2 and the Incredible S housing parts are interchangeable. I ended up getting S parts because they were cheaper. Most of the ebay sellers are in China so shipping takes 1-2 weeks depending on the seller. Repairsuniverse is good if you want it fast, I ordered from them once and got the part in 2 days.
Parts arrived. Links to tutorials PLEASE!
Dermen said:
That is what I was referring to as the body, since all the parts attach to it. I actually got an entire new housing, came with the bezel, the middle part, and a new battery cover since my battery cover was beat up and I was changing colors. The middle part I didn't need but it was cheaper to buy all 3 parts than just 2.
I got it on ebay. The Incredible 2 and the Incredible S housing parts are interchangeable. I ended up getting S parts because they were cheaper. Most of the ebay sellers are in China so shipping takes 1-2 weeks depending on the seller. Repairsuniverse is good if you want it fast, I ordered from them once and got the part in 2 days.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi guys, I just received all the parts. The following are what I ordered:
Housing Front for HTC Droid Incredible 2 Red Body Frame Chassis Bezel Part
Verizon HTC Droid Incredible 2 Replacement Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement Front Glass
2mm Wide Double Sided Layer Adhesive Sticky Tape Sticker
Tools for iPhone and most of phone
Now I am ready to replace the screen. Tutorials? I found some online, but would like to see what you guys followed to see if I can find simple and comprehensive tutorials!
Thanks! And wish me luck.
litetaker said:
Hi guys, I just received all the parts. The following are what I ordered:
Housing Front for HTC Droid Incredible 2 Red Body Frame Chassis Bezel Part
Verizon HTC Droid Incredible 2 Replacement Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement Front Glass
2mm Wide Double Sided Layer Adhesive Sticky Tape Sticker
Tools for iPhone and most of phone
Now I am ready to replace the screen. Tutorials? I found some online, but would like to see what you guys followed to see if I can find simple and comprehensive tutorials!
Thanks! And wish me luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. Take it apart.
2. Put it together with new parts.
3. ???
4. Profit.
prototype7 said:
1. Take it apart.
2. Put it together with new parts.
3. ???
4. Profit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, captain obvious!
I wanted to know if there is a detailed how to. Anyway, managed to take it apart. All guides end at taking it apart and say, "well, now you know how to dissemble it, just go in reverse and assemble it. Well. I wish they don't do that and show me through the reverse just to avoid mistakes. I remember having to redo IKEA furniture due to missing a few parts. Don't wanna do this messy procedure and realize I forgot a button or worst still putting the screen on!
Anyway, I am a grad student with a bachelors in Engineering... I should be ashamed if I can't do this! :silly:
repairsuniverse has a guide on youtube for replacing the digitizer. I found it easy to follow. Only difference is when you put it back together put the parts in the new body. You will also have to pull the speaker out of the old body and put it in the new. It is held in by glue, heat it with a hairdryer/heatgun and it comes out pretty easily. You might need to use some new adhesive on the speaker, I was able to pull the old adhesive out of the body in one piece using a hairdryer and some tweezers.
Dermen said:
repairsuniverse has a guide on youtube for replacing the digitizer. I found it easy to follow. Only difference is when you put it back together put the parts in the new body. You will also have to pull the speaker out of the old body and put it in the new. It is held in by glue, heat it with a hairdryer/heatgun and it comes out pretty easily. You might need to use some new adhesive on the speaker, I was able to pull the old adhesive out of the body in one piece using a hairdryer and some tweezers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am 100% done with the repair. But there are a few issues. The Vibrator motor seems to be not working. Then, the Digitizer I bought doesn't have a hole for the front facing camera! That is not a major setback as I rarely use it and I have a tablet and a PC to skype chat with... But it is sad that a feature is missing.
The big issue is the vibrator not working. I didn't mangle it and put it back in place as I am supposed to. Finally, I have 1 or 2 small dust particles under the screen and that is ok. I couldn't remove all the dust and it is a miracle I managed to get it that clean. Finally I seem to have a slight green tint/screen bleed at top left corner. I didn't have that before and I didn't distort the LCD while replacing. Is it due to a smudge on the LCD there? I suppose it is a minor issue and not something that will amplify as I have a Transformer prime that has screen bleeds and it is apparently because the screws are too tight.. So may be I tightened something too much? Anyway, if it doesn't deteriorate I am ok, as it is a very, very minor problem.
So, bottom line: Main problems > (1) No FFC (due to improper digitizer) -> I don't intend to fix it. (2) Vibrator motor not working.
Can someone help me with 2?
I fricking fixed it! I have WORK to do and I spent about 4 hrs fixing my phone!!! I'm kinda screwed for tomorrow! At least now my phone works...
That is odd it didn't have a spot for the front camera. I replaced my digitizer and it has a clear spot for it but it is not even close to centered. It actually looks like it would obstruct the camera but it doesn't. If you take it apart again for some reason you can scrape the black off the back so it is clear. However, it is very hard to do that and make it look decent.
Getting it perfect with no dust between the lcd and digitizer is very very hard to do. The first phone I did I actually took it apart again because there not only was dust but smudges on the other side of the digitizer. As for the bleeding I wouldn't think you could cause it from pressure in the inc2 because the lcd and digitizer are just held on the front by adhesive. The LCD has adhesive around the entire edge of it, I don't know if that also blocks light from the edges but if it does and there is a little bit missing maybe it is the cause.
Dermen said:
That is odd it didn't have a spot for the front camera. I replaced my digitizer and it has a clear spot for it but it is not even close to centered. It actually looks like it would obstruct the camera but it doesn't. If you take it apart again for some reason you can scrape the black off the back so it is clear. However, it is very hard to do that and make it look decent.
Getting it perfect with no dust between the lcd and digitizer is very very hard to do. The first phone I did I actually took it apart again because there not only was dust but smudges on the other side of the digitizer. As for the bleeding I wouldn't think you could cause it from pressure in the inc2 because the lcd and digitizer are just held on the front by adhesive. The LCD has adhesive around the entire edge of it, I don't know if that also blocks light from the edges but if it does and there is a little bit missing maybe it is the cause.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The following are the images of my fixed and "pimped" Dinc2.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/beop9oqvn6qo9p5/2012-09-25 00.23.03.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qh62damm82z0qmu/2012-09-25 00.22.32.jpg
Is the two tone color combination looking sweet, or should I change the back to red as well? I have a spare black back cover. If anyone has a spare red back cover, I can trade!
Plus, the "smudge/screen bleed" at the top left edge is seen in this pic:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/illeve11tomyrtw/2012-09-25 00.54.23.jpg (The black spot on the middle of the left side is a dust spec!)
Close up: https://www.dropbox.com/s/9ys4r2e6xmxfhnh/2012-09-25 00.54.48.jpg
Is the smudge bad? I think it is just a smudge on the LCD and not a damage to the LCD right? In that case, I am cool, as I most likely will cause other smudges if I attempt to redo it anyway. Plus, I am kinda bummed out about the lack of FFC, but I hardly use it and the whole process of removing the screen is SOOO tedious (and I don't have a heat gun, so had to put my phone a feet above a gas burner! ) and it was so painful and stomach wrenching to safely remove the LCD/digitizer that I don't wish to do it again to repair the FFC...
So, what do ya say?
I think the two tone looks good since the red phones have all black accents. I thought it was weird that the speaker on the red phone is silver, while all the other accents are black.
There seems to be a problem with the adhesive. The digitizer is raised by about 1 millimeter at the top while it is attached better at the bottom. I think it is because I had an additional horizontal strip of adhesive at the bottom to attach the digitizer to both the LCD and the buttons firmly while I didn't put such a horizontal strip at the top as I didn't see one when I dissembled it. If I put pressure on the digitizer for a while, it sets back in place for about half a day. Is this a serious problem? I don't feel like dissembling again.
litetaker said:
Hi guys, I just received all the parts. The following are what I ordered:
Housing Front for HTC Droid Incredible 2 Red Body Frame Chassis Bezel Part
Verizon HTC Droid Incredible 2 Replacement Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement Front Glass
2mm Wide Double Sided Layer Adhesive Sticky Tape Sticker
Tools for iPhone and most of phone
Now I am ready to replace the screen. Tutorials? I found some online, but would like to see what you guys followed to see if I can find simple and comprehensive tutorials!
Thanks! And wish me luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just broke my screen and im looking to go the same route. This is a good phone to have as a back up after i get my upgrade and i dont want to get rid of it.
Anyway, did you need all those parts to successfully change your screen? I thought if you bought a new housing you would not need the adhesive tape?
In addition to the constant influx of iPods and iPhones friends, family, and coworkers bring me to fix, I've taken apart a few different Xperia PLAY phones more times than I can count, so I thought I'd give a few "pro tips" to people who need to know the ins and outs of it. This isn't a disassembly, assembly, or even a repair guide, it's just the stuff I think those guys missed.
First, don't use a heat gun to loosen the adhesive on the front glass + digitizer. The plastic frame wrinkles and melts readily, particularly right under the face buttons.
Second, make sure you transfer as much as possible when you replace the frame. Replacement frames usually do not include the rubber shroud for the proximity sensor and it will not work right without it. I had one phone that seemingly worked fine until the screen protector peeled off while inserting in a pocket and then no amount of clear tape, screen protectors, or Sharpie-marking would fix it. A salvaged rubber shroud fixed it right up. Some replacement frames have a film-backed adhesive for holding it there and some don't. It probably depends on when they were yanked from the manufacturing line, assuming that they are original parts and not replica parts. You also want to make sure you transfer are the inner dust gasket that goes underneath the frame/glass or else things will be filling up with dust quickly. There is no speaker grill and the foam around it does not stop intrusion. A salvaged frame/glass adhesive is likely to allow dust in unless you didn't have to pick much out of it when swapping (usually glass shards). There are also little metallic grounding foam rectangles crammed in the corners that only one replacement frame I've seen has ever included (was probably salvage though listed as "new"). They probably aren't necessary and I've gone long periods without them, but why wonder if a static charge build up is responsible for your erratic touch screen?
Next, be extremely careful separating the glass from the frame. I've managed to crack good ones even going slowly and leaving gaps filled with picks and pry tools. Heat didn't seem to help much and, as mentioned earlier, is discouraged. Cleaning the screen after man-handling it isn't always easy, but don't avoid touching the back side because you will probably need the area to spread the pressure and avoid a crack. I use a levered "mini suction cup" from Harbor Freight on the top side and as many fingers as spread out as I can on the bottom, but the suction cup is near useless on a cracked screen (even tape-coated). I do suggest covering a shattered screen with tape to hold all the bits together but you are still going to have a hard time cleaning the adhesive up. You can always buy a frame with digitizer pre-installed but I know a lot of you want to buy complete replacement housings instead and it's kind of a waste, but at least you don't need to worry about that adhesive (still: don't forget to transfer the other bits!).
The digitizer parts I've salvaged from phones had higher version numbers than the ones I've seen sold as replacement parts and seemed to be more erratic so I prefer salvaged ones. There can be other problems as well. The flat flex cable from the digitizer is supposed to have an adhesive backing that holds it still where it connects to the tiny cable from the earpiece. Replacements often do not have it, which is yet ANOTHER reason to prefer salvage parts. It may not seem like such a big deal considering that there is a black plastic piece screwed down over it to protect it from getting caught in the mechanism, but the connector does not hold on very well and the phone will not boot if it is slightly out of alignment. If you reassemble it and just get a buzz from the vibration motor with no display and no other sign of booting, check this connection (same thing if the digitizer suddenly stops registering touch). Even a small drop/impact will cause it to happen again, so I recommend securing it with precisely cut tape or hot glue (stay clear of the sliding rails).
Now, keep it clean while you work or you will be staring at that contaminate or thumbprint for a long time. I usually wear fresh latex gloves when working on the glass but it doesn't do much good if you keep transferring oils from the rest of the phone. Wash your hands right before you start and clean the outside of the phone. Before you begin, try just touch a used dish soap dispenser with a damp thumb and run all along to screen except the buttons and earpiece. Do it again with just the damp thumb (dilutes the soap that remained from the first pass) and wipe it with a clean lint-free cloth. Your own clean and dry fingertips/palm should readily absorb any remaining streaks/oils. Be sure to wipe down the rest of the phone too and don't transfer it back to the glass. Once inside I use layer after layer of clear tape to lift gunk from the earpiece (no mesh, remember?). Put on new gloves before you start handling the glass after disassembly, even if you were wearing some for disassembly. To clean the back of the glass I put the adhesive between wax paper while I clean using lint-free cloths, 90+% alcohol, and acetone. For the LCD, use tape to lift most contaminates and resort to alcohol + lint-free cloth if that doesn't work. It doesn't need to be too perfect, especially if scratched from cracked glass. Most imperfections only show when it's off.
Hot glue is great for removing adhesive screw covers without showing pick marks or other signs of tampering but you have to make sure to leave an edge exposed so that you aren't just picking it out of the glue instead. I've been getting mine off cleanly without any tricks like this but it came in handy when I was first disassembling one and there weren't any guides to tell me that there weren't screws under the large silver strip (just covers rivets or injections mold points, IIRC). It's also good for sealing off water sensors, like the one you see through a hole under the battery door. There's another one by the contacts on the battery itself, one by the microphone under the gamepad, and one in the opposite corner under the PS Certified logo. I had an AT&T rep tell me that a brand new phone had a tripped water sensor (LIES!) so I would look for ways to do this with most any new phone.
I can't count how many times I've left the power button out while reassembling. It's not usually that I forgot: It's that it falls out while snapping the back on. I've left the face buttons out a few times too.
My first one had the cable folded wrong after reassembly. It still worked fine for a couple years but did eventually require replacement. Once it folds wrong it'll probably stay that way even after correct reassembly (like mine did). Do not try to attach it to the main PCB using a spudger, butterknife, or whatever to awkwardly push the connector down with everything pulled apart. The only thing you need to do is to slide the cable into the phone's closed position, align the plastic posts on the connector with the corresponding holes on the PCB, and then push down on the PCB until it snaps. I'm sure I tried this first back then but chickened out because the connector didn't snap very easily but that is how you are supposed to do it.
Before I talk about the replacing the slide cable, I want to express my annoyance at all the eBay/YouTube/iFixIt.com people who call it a "flex cable." I don't like the term flex cable because generally ALL cables should be flexible and that doesn't distinguish what it is well enough for people looking for the part. Technically, it's a flat cable or a slide cable, though I wouldn't object to it being called a flex PCB (flex PCBs usually have components other than just connectors like a rigid printed circuit board would). "Flex cable" is silly, redundant, and does not describe anything more specific than just "cable." To complicate matters, there are several actual flex PCBs in this phone to distinguish from when ordering the part. Why did so many people start calling flex PCBs "flex cables" in the first place?! In our case the sliding portion is a *flat* cable, so I can see where "cable" was introduced from, but people say "flex cable" for any flat cable made like a flex PCB these days whether fixed or sliding. At least you know now that you are probably going to have to use the incorrect terminology to find what you want online and sift through many useless results.
*whew*
Now, slide cable replacement is easier than it would seem but intact removal isn't and brand new replacements can be defective. It was a troubleshooting nightmare when I encountered a defective one because I replaced the LCD and glass + digitizer at the same time and suspected/checked everything else first, even taking apart my personal phone multiple times to test parts. The plastic part of the connector on the PCB end must be transferred to the new cable and the old one will not reliably stick back down to it even if you did not contaminate the adhesive. I successfully transferred a cable from a water-damaged phone to my personal phone before fixing up the water-damaged donor phone with a new one, so the adhesive on the salvaged part was weak and I didn't realize how hard it was to remove intact until later. When separating the defective new one there was seemingly no place to pry on one end other than underneath the part where the earpiece/camera connector was located. This broke the side of the connector that holds the locking flap though I was still able to use/lock it. I claimed warranty on the defective part anyway because the connector was not needed for proving the cable was defective (a functional cable works with that connector populated or not). This new part was slightly different from those found originally installed in the phone (different colored plastic connectors and such). The second new one I ordered from elsewhere had double-sided adhesive down the middle, a foil quality control sticker, and the same odd connector colors. I didn't think there was a market for replica parts on this phone but it does seem like more than simple factory revisions. Anyway, removing it involves removing metallic tape then lifting a plate that is still adhered underneath with amber-colored Kapton tape. You can see it from the slide mechanism below. I pinch the plate from above and below with two fingers and lift, gradually peeling the tape which I then fold inside and secure to avoid contaminating the adhesive. The cable has a plastic band across it that fits between fingers on this plate. When secured, this isolates the end with multiple connectors from the movement of the sliding portion, so make sure this is in place when reinstalling. It may be best to avoid removing the adhesive backing paper until after the plate and cable are securely taped back down with both the Kapton and metallic tape while the fingers are holding it in position. If you stick it down first and then secure the plate you may find it slightly too long or short to position inside the plate when securing it all back down. To thread the main connector through the slide board opening it may seem that it will only fit by folding the cable but DON'T! Coil it. Without flattening it, bend the connector 90-degrees over from the cable path and then adjust the angle until you have a coil-shape that you can work through with the connector sideways.
I ordered a "no useable parts" dummy phone just for the heck of it and, other than the Sony Ericsson logo on the fake battery door and maybe the stickers that cover the screws, they really don't have any salvageable parts. You can't swap any buttons, keys, springs, covers, etc into a real phone. The closest would be the face buttons. They will fit in a real phone, but they are too tall and put constant pressure on the PCB switches causing unintended key-presses (especially back and search buttons). The extra height easily protrudes out the top and is not the issue so filing them down vertically won't fix anything. I snipped some excess rubber to more closely match the design of the original buttons but it didn't help. I unscrewed the screw in the corner under the search key and unsnapped the bottom edge of the frame from the back/slide board and they work great until the phone inevitably snaps back together. I'd say they felt better then the original with the extra height (I can't stand how close they are to the screen). It's tolerable with ICS/JB's Navigation Bar (on-screen key functions), but I would rather salvage real buttons or pay too much for the eBay ones ($10-$20; very uncommon part; always sold with crap you probably don't need).
I have yet to find a replacement battery door that includes the rubber trim around the speakers and the foam piece surrounding the rear/noise-canceling microphone. I've ordered a few auctions that show them in the pictures but they always arrive bare. You can transfer them with a razor but it likely won't be perfect. Without them the speaker audio will probably echo around inside the battery compartment and make its way into the mic, though people usually don't notice it. Painting on some Plasti-Dip might do the trick, so try that if it bothers you.
Unlike an iPhone with a million different screws, you don't have to keep track of what goes where and everything is easily accessible. Bare minimum to take it all apart: Some fingernails, a T5 or T6 (pick one) and a PH0, 00, or 000 Phillips (pick one). There don't seem to be any tamper/warranty seals and the only concealed screws are the two obvious ones underneath metallic cover stickers on the display/slide board. There are no screws under tape or labels and no water sensors covering them either. All 6 Phillips screws are the same size but you'll likely want to keep the two with adhesive in their original holes to re-use the covers (adhesive usually remains on the screw instead of the cover). There are only two different Torx screw types but it's obvious what goes where (6 stubby flat ones on the top and bottom, 7 long thin ones around the battery area).
There are bits and bobs taped to and embedded in the rear housing including antenna/RF stuff, some more obvious that others. I've compared and the R800x is very different from the R800at even though the plastic frame looks really similar (R800x has a blocked SIM slot, of course). IMO, any housing swap should be limited to the front frame, the gamepad, and the battery door (only colored parts anyway). If you nicked your chrome, hopefully it was on a button or something that can be swapped (springs are a pain). It may be possible to transfer everything but I wouldn't trust it after all the peeling and picking. The one report I've seen of someone transferring between a GSM/CDMA models seems blissfully unaware of the metal wire behind the volume keys on the CDMA model that isn't there on GSM (at least it's not there on my R800at GSM).
That's all my advice for now. If you are having any trouble, let me know.
Excellent guide, thank you for taking the time to type this up. I think a mod should sticky this.....
Awesome guide! Thanks much for it!
@ozzmanj1 Agree, so more people will notice it.
Thanks for help buddy!!!
As for the case of the digitizer, mine has some parts (lower left) that are not recognizing touch inputs. Will realigning the digitizer cable help? I' d really not want to buy a new one right now as I am quite on a tight budget. Please help. Totally in distress here with my very sickly Play.
So, first I want to say thanks for this post as it's been invaluable in my working on my own XP.
I'm in the process of changing out the LCD and slide cable and am wondering about versions of the phone and compatibility. On Ebay I'm finding lots of parts listed as being for R800i\R800x\R800a. Very few parts are listed for R800at (which is what I have)
In changing out parts (anything hardware related) what parts are interchangeable and what parts are not? Anyone able to help?
Right now I'm looking at LCD screen and slide cable, but in the future I would like to change out the digitizer (I read the other page about having to possibly roll back to a different kernel) and perhaps other inner workings of the phone as well. I would just like to know what I can use from other models of the XP and what are model specific.
Thanks!
Arevyn said:
So, first I want to say thanks for this post as it's been invaluable in my working on my own XP.
I'm in the process of changing out the LCD and slide cable and am wondering about versions of the phone and compatibility. On Ebay I'm finding lots of parts listed as being for R800i\R800x\R800a. Very few parts are listed for R800at (which is what I have)
In changing out parts (anything hardware related) what parts are interchangeable and what parts are not? Anyone able to help?
Right now I'm looking at LCD screen and slide cable, but in the future I would like to change out the digitizer (I read the other page about having to possibly roll back to a different kernel) and perhaps other inner workings of the phone as well. I would just like to know what I can use from other models of the XP and what are model specific.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just about everything but the chrome back housing is a simple swap. LCD, slide cable, digitizer, camera/earpiece, face buttons, game pad, slide board, front frame, camera, headphone jack, etc. The only parts tied together for compatability are the motherboard and the chrome back housing and that is because it has all the antennas installed in it. It's probably possible to move all the components but I've never even had to take the speakers out and can't speak to the difficulty or possibility for certain. I'm worried that lifting the adhesive films would damiage the antennas inside. As I mentioned in the OP, there are other little parts to move when you compare the two and note the differences. Good luck!
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
CZroe said:
Just about everything but the chrome back housing is a simple swap. LCD, slide cable, digitizer, camera/earpiece, face buttons, game pad, slide board, front frame, camera, headphone jack, etc. The only parts tied together for compatability are the motherboard and the chrome back housing and that is because it has all the antennas installed in it. It's probably possible to move all the components but I've never even had to take the speakers out and can't speak to the difficulty or possibility for certain. I'm worried that lifting the adhesive films would damiage the antennas inside. As I mentioned in the OP, there are other little parts to move when you compare the two and note the differences. Good luck!
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome! Thanks so much.
---------- Post added at 06:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:11 PM ----------
CZroe said:
Just about everything but the chrome back housing is a simple swap. LCD, slide cable, digitizer, camera/earpiece, face buttons, game pad, slide board, front frame, camera, headphone jack, etc. The only parts tied together for compatability are the motherboard and the chrome back housing and that is because it has all the antennas installed in it. It's probably possible to move all the components but I've never even had to take the speakers out and can't speak to the difficulty or possibility for certain. I'm worried that lifting the adhesive films would damiage the antennas inside. As I mentioned in the OP, there are other little parts to move when you compare the two and note the differences. Good luck!
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you noticed a difference in an LCD screen with a green cable vs one with an orange cable? I have an orange one in mine, and wasnt sure if its a different part, or just a different batch of screens
Arevyn said:
Awesome! Thanks so much.
---------- Post added at 06:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:11 PM ----------
Have you noticed a difference in an LCD screen with a green cable vs one with an orange cable? I have an orange one in mine, and wasnt sure if its a different part, or just a different batch of screens
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am color blind and never took notice but I switched LCD between R800i, R800x, and R800at and they were all compatible. They have no reason to make anything in that half of the phone different, so they don't.
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
narflynn619 said:
As for the case of the digitizer, mine has some parts (lower left) that are not recognizing touch inputs. Will realigning the digitizer cable help? I' d really not want to buy a new one right now as I am quite on a tight budget. Please help. Totally in distress here with my very sickly Play.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, I've also experience same problems as yours... I just wonder is it the flex cable or digitizer....
matfai said:
Hey, I've also experience same problems as yours... I just wonder is it the flex cable or digitizer....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If only some areas are responsive then I'm pretty sure it's the digitizer. The IC likely encodes the output so that all the raw connections don't need to be extended over the slide cable. IOW, the pins that carry digitizer data probably carry encoded data so that it's fewer pins. This means it would work either all or not at all if the slide cable had anything to do with it.
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
CZroe said:
If only some areas are responsive then I'm pretty sure it's the digitizer. The IC likely encodes the output so that all the raw connections don't need to be extended over the slide cable. IOW, the pins that carry digitizer data probably carry encoded data so that it's fewer pins. This means it would work either all or not at all if the slide cable had anything to do with it.
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for reply... So, do I have to replace the digitizer or just realigning the cable will help?
matfai said:
Thanks for reply... So, do I have to replace the digitizer or just realigning the cable will help?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In my experience, cable alignment has also been an all or nothing issue so you probably need to replace the digitizer. It couldn't hurt to realign the digitizer cable first just in case it can avoid an unnecessary expense. That fixed a Cubot C9+ I worked on Saturday (digitizer not working at all) but not the iPhone 4S I worked on yesterday (bottom row of digitizer not responding).
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
stuck in safe mode after replace slider cable(flex)
Hi i'm writing here in hopes you can help me, i bought and replaced the "flex cable" and it kinda worked, somehow it can only boot in safe mode and back, home and menu buttons on the front is unresponsive (i can use joypad though) i've tried opening it up again to check for loose connectors and i even tried disconnect the cable to the front buttons but safe mode persists, i tried to flash several official ftf images and a custom rom to see if it helped, but also without any luck.
I hope that you can help me.
Thx for a nice indepth post
docsmiley said:
Hi i'm writing here in hopes you can help me, i bought and replaced the "flex cable" and it kinda worked, somehow it can only boot in safe mode and back, home and menu buttons on the front is unresponsive (i can use joypad though) i've tried opening it up again to check for loose connectors and i even tried disconnect the cable to the front buttons but safe mode persists, i tried to flash several official ftf images and a custom rom to see if it helped, but also without any luck.
I hope that you can help me.
Thx for a nice indepth post
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you are booting in safe mode, that "menu" button is always pressed. My guess is faulty/damaged flex cable. You can try your old flex cable and see can you enter flash/fastboot mode (test to see is back and search button is working)
Bakisha said:
If you are booting in safe mode, that "menu" button is always pressed. My guess is faulty/damaged flex cable. You can try your old flex cable and see can you enter flash/fastboot mode (test to see is back and search button is working)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Search button is working as intended (also when booted into safe mode) and i can enter flash mode with back button and flash ftf files, back button is just not functional when booted (only on joypad).
I also figured it had to be the flex cable but i thought i was so carefull when mounting it so i didn't thought i damaged it.
The old flex cable didn't give any picture at all, so can't see if it boots into safe mode with that.
docsmiley said:
Search button is working as intended (also when booted into safe mode) and i can enter flash mode with back button and flash ftf files, back button is just not functional when booted (only on joypad).
I also figured it had to be the flex cable but i thought i was so carefull when mounting it so i didn't thought i damaged it.
The old flex cable didn't give any picture at all, so can't see if it boots into safe mode with that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have received a defective flex cable before so it's possible you have also. In my case it didn't work at all (no picture).
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Thanks for your replies I'll see if I can get it replaced
Sendt fra min Galaxy S4 med Tapatalk
slide flex replacement
hi, its my second time replacing the slide flex cable of my r800i, however this time, my digitizer is unresponsive to the flex i bought, i bought it in the same store where i bought the first one which was perfectly fine before,
my question is does the slide flex cable of xperia play 4G differs to the slide flex cable of the old one xperia play r800i,
dashu31 said:
hi, its my second time replacing the slide flex cable of my r800i, however this time, my digitizer is unresponsive to the flex i bought, i bought it in the same store where i bought the first one which was perfectly fine before,
my question is does the slide flex cable of xperia play 4G differs to the slide flex cable of the old one xperia play r800i,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They are the same. I have also switched then between a "4G" R800at and a R800x. I have also received bad digitizer flex cables that were new. It really is luck of the draw. A lot of replacement parts on eBay are factory seconds, which may have been removed from the production line for good reason. That's why I always order parts in sets of two for anything I know I will need in the future and I always test both. For example, recently I got two iPhone 4S screens and one had the frame installed upside down. Before that I ordered two replacement iPhone 4 30-pin dock replacements and one had a defective microphone. Before that I ordered two iPod touch 2G digitizer/frame assemblies and one didn't work along the left side.
Here I am identifying a couple bad iPhone displays from a lot:
http://youtu.be/TbxzCiGhwPM
I didn't own an iPhone so I had to test them all with the phone the first customer provided.
Edit: Oh! And make sure the problem is not with the digitizer connection under the black plastic cover. Mine works it's way loose all the time and needs to be secured with tape. Even when inserted fully straight and locked, I put it together and find it not working or the display black until I take it back apart and reseat it. It will twist slightly and even the slightest angle affects the connection.
Well, after a couple of weeks with my shiny new ZE551ML (RAM 2GB) purchased overseas in a trip, today the big bastard fell and cracked the glass .
So a new screen (complete screen, even if touch and LCD still works but don't want to mess with heat gun) is on the way via Aliexpress, I've done some similar procedures on more complicated phones but can't find any official procedure or documentation for this one, maybe too new?
So anyone has a PDF or webpage with the procedure?
Best I could find is this, but many pictures are missing
http://www.ewisetech.com/Pages/Product/teardown.aspx?s=1961&dt=6820&img=65699
EDIT: See post #6
http://www.myfixguide.com/manual/asus-zenfone-2-teardown/
Bout the best one available at the moment. Looks fairly simple to do, especially if you are replacing the entire screen assembly, not just the glass.
Sammaul said:
http://www.myfixguide.com/manual/asus-zenfone-2-teardown/
Bout the best one available at the moment. Looks fairly simple to do, especially if you are replacing the entire screen assembly, not just the glass.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, at least it's better than the one I found. But no specifics instructions on replacing the screen (separating the last housing from the old panel. Glue? Heat Gun? Double tape?)
gipikay said:
Thanks, at least it's better than the one I found. But no specifics instructions on replacing the screen (separating the last housing from the old panel. Glue? Heat Gun? Double tape?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do not know unfortunately. I would think it is tape, as most tend to be tape, but I couldn't say for certainty.
If you would like to set up an Out-of-Warranty RMA for ASUS to repair please send me a private message at [email protected].
Or you may apply for an RMA online at http://www.asus.com/us/support/
Please ensure to mention the damage otherwise it will be rejected if received with no reported damage.
Sincerely,
Frank
ASUS_USA
Here's an album I've used to replace my screen, (pictures are from the first link I've posted before) there are a couple of things to consider that aren't one these pictures nor any on the internet and don't make the sames mistakes I did. If you have pictures, and working screens from a different seller, please post it and I'll add it to the thread .
http://imgur.com/a/Rmy02
The tools I've used are screwdriver, a metal spudger, double-tape for cellphone repair, and a heat gun. And of course, your replacement screen. In my case I've purchased for 30 dol. on Aliexpress, but did not come with adhesive or tape so you have to have your own.
To remove the first section (4th picture), not only do you need to remove the cover and black and silver screws, but be careful because the center "rails" (the plastic parts to the sides of where the double sim and sd-card are) of the section are fixed to the battery section with "light" double tape, nothing too strong and can be lifted with care.
In the 5th picture, lift the white part of the connector and very carfeully to remove the ribbon. I've made the mistake to be too forceful and cracked the black part a litlle bit.
WARNING! THIS STEP IS THE MOST DIFFICULT, MANY PEOPLE BREAK THEIR BATTERY WHEN REMOVING, SO BE CAREFUL. AGAIN, YOU'VE BEEN WARNED
Now, one of the most difficult parts of the teardown is between 5th and 6th picture. After removing the uppers ribbon you have to take the battery compartment, and let me tell you that the white double-tape that glues the battery to the frame is one of the strongest i've ever encountered. A metal spudger can be helpful and you can start with pressing the left side, but don't separate too much or go too deep cause you might damage the envelope of the battery (I scrapped and exposed a litlle bit of the cells, but for the moment the phone works and don't heat. Just in case, I already ordered a new battery) . So be extra careful on this step.
In the 7th picture, things looks a little different of what I've found, the upper board has a metal protection that's soldered so DON'T TAKE IT OUT! Remove the upper left small ribbon very carefully. The cables on the down board that connects to the vibration motor are very fragile so be careful.
At this point, you can remove the speaker (I didn't) and you have the upper section, so the real hard work starts to be able to replace your screen. I'm sorry but i didn't take many pictures of this procedure, but again a metal spudger was helpful to be able to separate the cracked screen from the frame.
Remove all pieces of glue, glass or residue that's still on the frame and put the first part of the double-tape on the frame but don't take the upper part just yet. Take the replacement part and check it fits on the frame, paying atention to the two ribbons, one in the middle and other in the upper side. In my case, when I did put the screen I started with the upper ribbon and then guided the middle ribbon to it's hole and then fit the screen to the frame.
Make all the steps in backward order to be able to re-assemble the phone. The final optional step I did, is to seal the double-tape in the screen with the heat gun and some weight (I used a 2.5 drive and a couple of 3.5)
So in the end, I managed to replace the screen with only a couple of small mistakes. When my new battery arrives, the steps will be similar (I removed the white strong double tape with a light adhesive one, so it will be more easy to remove and replace the battery).
All in all, it went pretty well
LIST OF SELLERS WITH WORKING PARTS, according to users
AliExpress - Shenzhen OMG Trade co.,LTD - Screen For ZE551ML - USD 22.39 - gipikay (OP)
Nice to see someone succeeded, I laughted at the big hard drive lol Those 3.5'' HDs are huge. 30$ for the 5.5'' 1080p screen is pretty good, there are for 20$ too.
I tried once replacing an iphone 4 lcd but the problem ended up to be the motherboard.
btw Does anyone know where is the Intel GSM modem located on the motherboard? I see nothing from those pictures about the modem. I could not find a reliable way of disabling it, tried scripts, deleting dial etc apks and /lib/ril files, cellphone still searches for signal with no sim inserted and airplane mode on.
Back when I ordered, this one was the cheapest and the only one for ZE551ML (now the same vendor lists the screen as USD 25).
If I could guess, the modem should be in the upper board, under the metal shielding (the stock pictures indicates two visibles intel chips under the enclosure, maybe a third in the right, and one down in the board)
Thanks, so will it need to be unsoldered for removal? I only use voip and cannot use gsm anyway.
Experienced basically the exact the same when i changed my display essambly. I broke the foil around the battery too, only problem is I can not find any vendor selling a replacement battery. Can you give me a hint where to buy it?
Thanks in advance!
Gesendet von meinem ASUS_Z00AD mit Tapatalk
gipikay said:
Back when I ordered, this one was the cheapest and the only one for ZE551ML (now the same vendor lists the screen as USD 25).
If I could guess, the modem should be in the upper board, under the metal shielding (the stock pictures indicates two visibles intel chips under the enclosure, maybe a third in the right, and one down in the board)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you replace the glass only, or the entire screen assembly?
gettohhole said:
Experienced basically the exact the same when i changed my display essambly. I broke the foil around the battery too, only problem is I can not find any vendor selling a replacement battery. Can you give me a hint where to buy it?
Thanks in advance!
Gesendet von meinem ASUS_Z00AD mit Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is the one I've ordered, even if it says for ZE550ML (mine is 551) the part number and battery is the same (I think the difference between models is the screen resolution)
EDIT: I leave the link, but this seller sent me the wrong battery, see post #21. Now I'm waiting for AsusParts to ship me a new replacement
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free...ENT-BATTERY-C11P1424-3000MAH/32396187338.html
Sammaul said:
Did you replace the glass only, or the entire screen assembly?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Entire screen replaced, to separate the glass is really difficult
gipikay said:
This is the one I've ordered, even if it says for ZE550ML (mine is 551) the part number and battery is the same (I think the difference between models is the screen resolution)
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free...ENT-BATTERY-C11P1424-3000MAH/32396187338.html
Entire screen replaced, to separate the glass is really difficult
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you install 550 screen on 551 phone, it's possible you must install rom for 550 on 551, the big difference is the dpi.
I was just commenting on batteries. My phone is 551 and used a 551 replacement LCD, no differences there
Ok sorry just my bad english
gipikay said:
This is the one I've ordered, even if it says for ZE550ML (mine is 551) the part number and battery is the same (I think the difference between models is the screen resolution)
Entire screen replaced, to separate the glass is really difficult
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
gipikay said:
I was just commenting on batteries. My phone is 551 and used a 551 replacement LCD, no differences there
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you test it already? Does work?
Sent from my ZE551ML
gettohhole said:
Did you test it already? Does work?
Sent from my ZE551ML
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The new battery has not arrived yet
But a couple of scares aside ( if I completely drain the battery, it takes a litlle longer to reach minimal charge to power on ), the old battery seem to hold for the moment.
EDIT: See post #21, the sellers sent me the wrong battery, I think it's for Zenfone 5. Now I'm waiting for AsusParts to ship me a new replacement
Be careful
If anyone tries this, use extreme caution. I exposed some cells on the battery and a little smoke came out. I don't really know what to do from here because I'm afraid to continue this further. I guess I'm out of a 300 dollar phone and 30 dollar screen
Hi all
I ordered ZE551ML for my ZE550ML .... and the person already shipped so couldn't change the order
is it ok or i have to ship it back?
is it only PPI and resolution ?
Hi guys
Failed ... Got the 551ML and mounted on 550ML
Screen turns on but no Asus initial logo etc... Is not working
Mounted all out of the box... Not removing completely the broken screen.
Main board and battery connectors only.
You guys think anything can help ?
has anybody ordered and replaced the LCD screen on this phone?
i managed to crack mine after some month of abuse. anybody recommend an lcd screen assembly from ebay?
Yes. I have replaced a few as I work in a mobile phone repair shop.
Not sure if I'm allowed to post eBay links here but anyway here it is:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Huawei-P...948322?hash=item1a172c98a2:g:jcoAAOSw6WdXidIF
The client actually bring the screen for me to replace his broken screen, came with screen and frame pre-assembled like this. While I have ordered one for a similar model for the Huawei Ascend G8 a few times it's pretty simple and hassle free when you buy it pre-assembled like that.
I could buy without frame but you get the hassle of adding adhesive manually which comes with the risk of the screen either not sitting on properly or pushing up because the adhesive was too weak or not applied properly. I've done a few G8's with and without frame, worked pretty well in my experience.
Note that the huawei P9 has two pentalobe screws on the bottom like the iPhones do and you will need to take the sim card / sd card tray out before opening it up. The whole metal back cover pretty much unclips from the screen frame. Do check iFixit disassembly guides on how to do so. Most of it is unplugging cables and unclipping stuff, the battery is a bit tricky the adhesive is usually strong for them. You gotta pull the battery adhesive tab if there is one and most likely the battery will still be stuck to the housing even with it removed because there is even more adhesive that is separate from that tab (pry carefully if you intend to do so of course, LCD cable runs under the battery if I remember correctly).
You can also buy cheaper from here but the quality as you can see is quite lower: http://www.eddogo.com/lcd-display-t...-with-frame-for-huawei-p9-eva-al00-black.html
As always make sure to match it up with model number.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jDPRtzjqSlo