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hi!
When I plugged my TyTN into PC via USB or to A/C charger I found that LCD is not displaying properly the today screen, it was getting white and some colour lines showed for few seconds. It was randomly changing and showing and hiding... and caused that I can't work with device.
What was diagnosed by me that when I move the USB jack fitted in port to left or right it helped to come back to OK status.
So I used (in anger) my strenght and fixed my machine for longer time (don't ask how but i'm curious if usb port located in TyTN can be used out???
someone any experience??
rexmundi said:
hi!
When I plugged my TyTN into PC via USB or to A/C charger I found that LCD is not displaying properly the today screen, it was getting white and some colour lines showed for few seconds. It was randomly changing and showing and hiding... and caused that I can't work with device.
What was diagnosed by me that when I move the USB jack fitted in port to left or right it helped to come back to OK status.
So I used (in anger) my strenght and fixed my machine for longer time (don't ask how but i'm curious if usb port located in TyTN can be used out???
someone any experience??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As with any device, the hermes will get to the end of its life. And usb ports can break quite easly if your not carefull or unlucky.
Thats why I never use the wired headphones, dont want to kill my port.
Glad to see you got yours working again though! (your lucky you didnt break it fully, by using to much strength )
veyka said:
As with any device, the hermes will get to the end of its life. And usb ports can break quite easly if your not carefull or unlucky.
Thats why I never use the wired headphones, dont want to kill my port.
Glad to see you got yours working again though! (your lucky you didnt break it fully, by using to much strength )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i hope it will work as long as possible
you know i'm using wired headset quite often and quite often plug in usb a/c in my car so maybe that why it is sending me singnals that he have enough
maybe when this brick will stop working it will be good argument for my wife to purchase new WM device (Diamond maybe)
greetz
rexmundi said:
i hope it will work as long as possible
you know i'm using wired headset quite often and quite often plug in usb a/c in my car so maybe that why it is sending me singnals that he have enough
maybe when this brick will stop working it will be good argument for my wife to purchase new WM device (Diamond maybe)
greetz
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I myself am trying to work out a way to get a Kaiser.. dont think I could quite sneak a touch pro though the net (GPS calls to me, and i dont like bluetooth dongles)
veyka said:
I myself am trying to work out a way to get a Kaiser.. dont think I could quite sneak a touch pro though the net (GPS calls to me, and i dont like bluetooth dongles)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1 on the kaiser for the next phone man... i'll be around for a while in hermes though
You can always buy a new usb port, but make sure you have a good soldering iron, and very good eyes. The 5 pins on the base of the port are extremely small and close together. If you don't have a magnifying glass, it could be a nightmare.
rexmundi said:
maybe when this brick will stop working it will be good argument for my wife to purchase new WM device (Diamond maybe)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If that's the case, I'd just snap that port off now.
veyka said:
I myself am trying to work out a way to get a Kaiser.. dont think I could quite sneak a touch pro though the net (GPS calls to me, and i dont like bluetooth dongles)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Kaiser is a mess I think, with all the non-accelerated video etc problems.
I'm eyeballing with Sony's XPERIA but only when it becomes $300-400 and only if no Android will match it by then - because XPeria's initial $1k price won't go down in less than 6-8 months and most like by then (practically next Spring) the second wave of Android-based phones will be arriving, beating XPERIA in everything at less than half the price...
szlevi said:
Kaiser is a mess I think, with all the non-accelerated video etc problems.
I'm eyeballing with Sony's XPERIA but only when it becomes $300-400 and only if no Android will match it by then - because XPeria's initial $1k price won't go down in less than 6-8 months and most like by then (practically next Spring) the second wave of Android-based phones will be arriving, beating XPERIA in everything at less than half the price...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Omni software driver and HTC class action drivers do the job fine I dont even use any D3D stuff.
The extra ram and the faster cpu sound good to me.
Just seen this anyone know what this is.
http://kindleworld.blogspot.com/2012/01/kingston-wi-drive-app-for-kindle-fire.html
johnsaldivar said:
Just seen this anyone know what this is.
http://kindleworld.blogspot.com/2012/01/kingston-wi-drive-app-for-kindle-fire.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I posted this a few days ago in the General forum...http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1443654
it definitely looks like a good idea.
$100 32gb flash drive
I hope kindle gets usb host support
I assume this works over WiFi? Would be cool if it worked over secret bluetooth and we finally found out for sure the BT worked...
I just ordered one..
This seems pretty cool; however, the 3 hour battery life is somewhat disconcerting.
podspi said:
I assume this works over WiFi? Would be cool if it worked over secret bluetooth and we finally found out for sure the BT worked...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It provides its own WiFi network to which up to 3 devices can connect but also has an extra element that allows it to use a bridging mechanism to let your Kindle Fire be connected to the Internet and the Wi-Drive at the same time (not possible with the otherwise interesting AirStash with nice features of its own). You can be using media from the Wi-Drive while looking up something on the Net.
Besides adding storage to the Kindle Fire this way, 3 people can be wirelessly conected to it at the same time and be watching 3 different movies (or the same one) with what customer reviewers describe as smooth response. But it lasts only 3.5 to 4 hours per session, on the battery.
The sharing function is a real plus for families.
- Andrys (anieb & Kindleworld)
What a ripoff....
We could have this same thing for $5-20 in a micro SD slot/card if Amazon had more sense before releasing this thing.
I will not be buying this. We have a cheap $200 tablet, if you plan to spend $50-200 more on this kind of thing you might as well have bought a better tablet instead.
I don't think this is anything to get excited about.
Since it is apparently a hotspot do you have to pay some sort of monthly fee? Seems co
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I know someone that tried this with an iPAD2... streaming wasn't very good. they sent it back.
i bought one of this too, and im really enjoying.
It streams very well full hd movies to my fire and phone.
I'm having only one problem, cant access files on my windows laptop.
I go to 192.168.200.254 on browser and then i think he dont see well the code, cause appears just " /" NameLast Modified Size " and then the files i have on wi-drive. it's supposed to appear a list of linkable files i have, right?
krelvinaz said:
I know someone that tried this with an iPAD2... streaming wasn't very good. they sent it back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've streamed original 1280 x 720 videoclips shot with a FlipMino HD from the Wi-Drive -- to a Kindle Fire, a Samsung S2 phone, and a Samsung Tab 10.1
They all streamed smoothly. But I don't have an iPad2.
It depends on how you do your file. I've seen now conversion software that is unstable on the intended device and which is not playable from the Wi-Drive and looks like it's torn apart on any of the 3 devices I mentioned.
Positive results came with DVD Catalyst 4 to downsize, and from Emicsoft's easy 'join'ing of mp4's.
I experimented with both the original videoclips and joined ones, which even if called 'lossless' changes something due to the resulting somewhat smaller file.
The FlipMino HD uses 60 frames per second.
---------- Post added at 07:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:39 PM ----------
Android16 said:
What a ripoff....
We could have this same thing for $5-20 in a micro SD slot/card if Amazon had more sense before releasing this thing.
I will not be buying this. We have a cheap $200 tablet, if you plan to spend $50-200 more on this kind of thing you might as well have bought a better tablet instead.
I don't think this is anything to get excited about.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Nook Tablet has the SD slot and costs $50 more + the cost of a good SD card. (It also has better specs in total.)
The Wi-Drive can be shared by 3 devices at a time, accessing the same data or different data. Can't do that with an SD card, but it all depends on your need for that. Some are sharing it on trips, for kids in the back of the car.
But it still lasts only 3.5 to 4 hours tht way.
Someone else mentioned it acts as a hotspot. Actually, it doesn't serve Internet data. It just serves its own stored data. Other devices connect to the Wi-Drive as a sort of cloud and it provides the wireless access to itself -- but not to the Net.
It can, though, be used with a connected device while the latter accesses the Net. It uses some kind of bridging mechanism to do that.
baj24 said:
This seems pretty cool; however, the 3 hour battery life is somewhat disconcerting.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here's the good thing. You can use the Wi-Drive while it's plugged in. Doesn't matter if the battery's drained. People on vacation can use it in their hotel rooms that way.
I just did the setup to use the Wi-Drive and be on the Net at the same time. It's easier than I thought from reading it the first time. You just put the Wi-Drive on your WiFi network (using the Wi-Drive app on your Kindle Fire) and then the Wi-Drive reboots.
After it's done, and ready, you use the app on the KFire to connect with the Wi-Drive again and then check the Wi-Drive's network connections status and there's an icon that, if it shows up, means you're both on the Net, via the Wi-Drive and also able to access the Drive. The other ones I've read about don't do both at the same time...
anieb said:
Here's the good thing. You can use the Wi-Drive while it's plugged in. Doesn't matter if the battery's drained. People on vacation can use it in their hotel rooms that way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you sure you can use it while it's charging? Did you actually try it?
The article states that you can not.
His caveats are that with two or more people using it at a time, constantly streaming, it runs for only 3 hours and then must be re-charged again and you cannot recharge this with the miniUSB adapter while using it. He doesn't say how long it lasts with one person using it.
That was actually one of the things that was turning me against it... would love to know if it's not true.
Though honestly, I will probably just wait for a stable ICS ROM that will, hopefully, by then have the usb host function working.
Xandralia said:
Are you sure you can use it while it's charging? Did you actually try it?
The article states that you can not.
His caveats are that with two or more people using it at a time, constantly streaming, it runs for only 3 hours and then must be re-charged again and you cannot recharge this with the miniUSB adapter while using it. He doesn't say how long it lasts with one person using it.
That was actually one of the things that was turning me against it... would love to know if it's not true.
Though honestly, I will probably just wait for a stable ICS ROM that will, hopefully, by then have the usb host function working.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It turned out that the customer reviewer was wrong about not being able to charge it while accessing it. I've just replied to his review because I AM able to charge it while running a movie from the Wi-Drive. At home. With the power adapter that came with the unit. However, Kingston is clear that you cannot charge it and access it if you are using the USB cord with a computer. It has to be with the power adapter that comes with the unit or is Apple Certified.
The reviewer was describing not being able to charge it in his car once the battery was run down. I called Kingston tech support to find out if there was something different about its use with car adapters, and a Level 2 tech support rep said that it does charge it while you're using but the car adapter has to be up to a certain standard and the best thing to do is look for car adapters that are Apple Product Certified.
I haven't been able to test that yet though!
So anyone can confirm if we can use wi drive while charging with power. adapter?
therethere said:
So anyone can confirm if we can use wi drive while charging with power. adapter?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I explained above that I can charge it while using it. The customer reviewer who said it wasn't possible has revised his review and is now letting people know how to do it, after I wrote to that review thread. He is very good about adding updated info.
does anyone know if they have mobile wireless 1TBs yet? the seagate one is only 500gigs
ok, thanks.
i tried with a charger i have but that don't work, maybe because it got a led light on charger. will have to try another
therethere said:
ok, thanks.
i tried with a charger i have but that don't work, maybe because it got a led light on charger. will have to try another
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It comes with its own charger. The chargers need to be at a standard, they said, which qualifies for 'Apple product qualified' ... The one that comes with it definitely works.
There's also a trick that's needed which I mentioned and the customer reviewer added to his updates. And that's to make sure it's off without the charger plugged in.
Turn it On w/o the charger plugged in. Then turn the Wi-Drive back On to let it get activated. At that point, plug in the power adapter .
Hi all,
I am on vacation and got bumped into, causing me to drop my less than a week old TMo G3 after I ordered my screen protector and case. Lovely, right? Well it caused a nice giant crack in the screen and the LCD to become unresponsive. I pulled the battery and restarted, and it told me my LCD was damaged and said to use volume and power now as manual controls. Only issue with that is I have knock code on, so I cant get into the system at all.
Luckily I am rooted, and have TWRP installed. I also have titanium. I would love to get a backup of my apps somehow (I had not made a backup yet, silly me) or better yet a nandroid if somehow possible to simply restore when I get my replacement (Tried to use power keys to boot into recover, wouldn't even turn off though). I have my SD in to hold my other files, luckily.
I am on a mac and can set up/execute adb if needed.
I really appreciate any help you can give, thanks so much everyone.
Fun Fact- My G3 didn't survive a 1.5ft fall
UPDATE: I will be trying to do the OTG mouse method, but another method is preffered so I dont have to buy anything and can do my backups more immediately.
UPDATE 2: Scratch everything, USB port appears to be broken. Cant get it to charge or recognize on my computer.
Mine was 4 days old when it fell and cracked the screen. If you have an OTG cable plug it in and plug in a USB mouse. You will be able to control the phone with the mouse.
Sent from my LG-D850
D_Rock899x said:
Mine was 4 days old when it fell and cracked the screen. If you have an OTG cable plug it in and plug in a USB mouse. You will be able to control the phone with the mouse.
Sent from my LG-D850
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great idea, I dont have one, but I think I will just pick one up.
TacoLord187 said:
Great idea, I dont have one, but I think I will just pick one up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could try a wireless mouse if it has a USB dongle. Not sure that it will work but worth a shot.
Sent from my LG-D850
D_Rock899x said:
Could try a wireless mouse if it has a USB dongle. Not sure that it will work but worth a shot.
Sent from my LG-D850
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Only wireless mouse I have is the apple magic mouse. If I could get into bluetooth, maybe it would work that way, but I would have to get into bluetooth.
TacoLord187 said:
Only wireless mouse I have is the apple magic mouse. If I could get into bluetooth, maybe it would work that way, but I would have to get into bluetooth.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd say that's doubtful with the screen being unresponsive. If it's anything like mine was it wouldn't recognize any touch input anywhere. USB mice are dirt cheap. Buy the cheapest one you can find at Wal-Mart, Target, etc.
Sent from my LG-D850
D_Rock899x said:
I'd say that's doubtful with the screen being unresponsive. If it's anything like mine was it wouldn't recognize any touch input anywhere. USB mice are dirt cheap. Buy the cheapest one you can find at Wal-Mart, Target, etc.
Sent from my LG-D850
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea, I have a USB one at home somewhere, just sucks because I am in Mexico at the moment....
The very bottom of my screen (nav bar) works. Cant get anything else though. And with the whole knock code being on, cant do to much.
TacoLord187 said:
Yea, I have a USB one at home somewhere, just sucks because I am in Mexico at the moment....
The very bottom of my screen (nav bar) works. Cant get anything else though. And with the whole knock code being on, cant do to much.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was in the exact same boat sans being in Mexico. Best of luck man.
Sent from my LG-D850
Hey. I have a simular problem. I busted my screen, no root. OTG way does work though...but what now? I'm not rooted neither
I recently obtained the HP lapdock for a fair price. This works via USB c connection just fine. I've been looking into how to get the wifi direct connection to work with no luck BUT I know its possible.
OXI rom has been able to successfully connect to the HP lapdock. See this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iAWbDg4hcYc
I have no idea how to try to even get this to work but my guess is it relies on something to do with the wifi direct api somewhere in the phone. Anyone want to take a look into this or know someone that could port this?
Thanks
OXI reached out after I contacted them. So if we could get Lineage support we could get OXI support. Anyone know how to build Lineage? Lol or know someone that could build it for us?
DarkestSpawn said:
OXI reached out after I contacted them. So if we could get Lineage support we could get OXI support. Anyone know how to build Lineage? Lol or know someone that could build it for us?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm trying to build lineage for the razer, but i'm just learning and i'm a little lost building the device tree. I can't seem to find how to do it, i guess my google skills are a bit rusty
DarkestSpawn said:
I recently obtained the HP lapdock for a fair price. This works via USB c connection just fine. I've been looking into how to get the wifi direct connection to work with no luck BUT I know its possible.
OXI rom has been able to successfully connect to the HP lapdock. See this video:
I have no idea how to try to even get this to work but my guess is it relies on something to do with the wifi direct api somewhere in the phone. Anyone want to take a look into this or know someone that could port this?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi I'm trying to use the hp lapdock on my mate 10 just get a blank screen when connecting do I need a special cable using the USB C cable that came with the Dock
There is a Dell Dock that works with the Razer phone, Tested it with keyboard, mouse and Monitor (HDMI output from the Dock, DP ports wont work)
r8dooo said:
Hi I'm trying to use the hp lapdock on my mate 10 just get a blank screen when connecting do I need a special cable using the USB C cable that came with the Dock
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Trying turning off the dock, plug in the cable, turn the dock on, when it gets to the cable or wireless screen plug in the phone. I use the item cord. Sometimes takes 15 tries =/
DarkestSpawn said:
Trying getting off the dock, plug in the cable, turn the dock on, when it gets to the cable or wireless screen plug in the phone. I use the item cord. Sometimes takes 15 tries =/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Still no joy just the blank display although it's connected as when I press the keyboard it does stuff on my phone tried every combination on start up. So annoying but thanks anyway
So updated to 8.1 Oreo, enabled Miracast from build prop, it will attempt to connect as the screen goes black on the Dock the phone force reboots. No idea whats causing it. Attached is the logcat, if anyone can look at it and assist I would be grateful.
If you need more info from a logcat just tell me what I missed. I refuse to give up on this and will continue researching and tinkering.
Also gonna try some Treble GSI's see if they work. Starting with AOKP
I downgraded my Razer phone to the 7.1.1 Android version and I STILL can't get this thing to work with the HP lapdock. Tried using the usb-c cable it shipped with, tried using a thunderbolt 3 cable...only the keyboard will work. The screen and track-pad are a no-go. The Galaxy S9 works with little fuss, so I know it's no a problem on the lapdock's end.
Ugh. I just want this thing to work.
i have a mate 20 pro, blackscreen with cable an no connection with wirelles. did someone get it to work?
y1m47ea#abe
I've recently bought a refurbished Lap dock from an italian seller on Ebay to use with my Blackberry Key2 (Android Oreo) and I must say it is a brilliant solution. I come from the Sentio Superbook, witch is also a very interesting solution, but the Lap dock is definitely better: screen, keyboard, touchpad have no comparison... The Sentio desktop app, anyway, works very well and offers an (almost) true desktop environment.
I haven't had any particolar problem connecting the lapdock to my smartphone, even if sometimes the screen doesn't light up, using the standard cable. I think the best way is to insert the usb c cable ony after the screen is showing the two connection options, first in the lapdock and then in the smartphone. Key presses in the touchpad don't work, but gestures are just fine once you get used to them.
I've also tried the wireless connection using the Miracast app: recognizes the screen, but the touchpad doesn't work and the keyboard is double typing every character. So basically it is useless. Hope it can help someone...
kamueone said:
i have a mate 20 pro, blackscreen with cable an no connection with wirelles. did someone get it to work?
y1m47ea#abe
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Was wondering if you ever got this to work?
no sorry, never got it working. would have been great. Maybe with some other lapdock in the future.
So it works with the Razer 1 through the cable? I have the lapdock and I'm shopping for a new phone but I'm not interested in the Note 9 which is supposed to work great with the lapdock as well.
gonow160 said:
So it works with the Razer 1 through the cable? I have the lapdock and I'm shopping for a new phone but I'm not interested in the Note 9 which is supposed to work great with the lapdock as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It doesn't work wonderfully, YouTube can't run some of the time, and the audio doesn't work at all really. Just through head phones. Even with the new Dex updates. But it is fine in a pinch.
Hi,
I have an Android 5.1 .1 unit with RK3188 chip 1G RAM. All works well but there is a weird rear camera issue. When I start the car and switch to backup gear, the rear camera always works normally, however, after driving 10 minutes or longer the camera does not work anymore and the screen shows an exclamation mark when gear switched to backup. This happens approximately 80% times, while the other 20% times the camera would work OK even after long driving time.
The camera is wired normally with power connected to backup light. Backup light power is also connect to the head unit as trigger for rear camera video.
I was initially thinking this could be a bad camera issue, but the problem persists after installation of a new camera. So it must be the unit.
Has anyone else experienced similar problem? Any help to fix the issue is much appreciated.
yves31 said:
Hi,
I have an Android 5.1 .1 unit with RK3188 chip 1G RAM. All works well but there is a weird rear camera issue. When I start the car and switch to backup gear, the rear camera always works normally, however, after driving 10 minutes or longer the camera does not work anymore and the screen shows an exclamation mark when gear switched to backup. This happens approximately 80% times, while the other 20% times the camera would work OK even after long driving time.
The camera is wired normally with power connected to backup light. Backup light power is also connect to the head unit as trigger for rear camera video.
I was initially thinking this could be a bad camera issue, but the problem persists after installation of a new camera. So it must be the unit.
Has anyone else experienced similar problem? Any help to fix the issue is much appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
modern car? possibly smart power management and therefore not sending enough power to the camera as it detects the reverse light not needing that much power. my vw golf does it and my friends bmw 1 series did, if its wired to a switch 12v does it do the same?
fma965 said:
modern car? possibly smart power management and therefore not sending enough power to the camera as it detects the reverse light not needing that much power. my vw golf does it and my friends bmw 1 series did, if its wired to a switch 12v does it do the same?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you, fma965. That makes sense.
The car is 2013 Prius. I did not realize cars are getting much smarter since last few years. 12v can come down a lot to save energy. I'll try to rewire the power connection.
yves31 said:
Thank you, fma965. That makes sense.
The car is 2013 Prius. I did not realize cars are getting much smarter since last few years. 12v can come down a lot to save energy. I'll try to rewire the power connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you may need to use a relay to detect when reverse light is on then trigger camera via 12v connection (elsewhere) otherwise the camera will be always on
yves31 said:
Thank you, fma965. That makes sense.
The car is 2013 Prius. I did not realize cars are getting much smarter since last few years. 12v can come down a lot to save energy. I'll try to rewire the power connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-to...fixings/halfords-hef554-relay-12v-30amp-4-pin is what i've used (UK)
12v cigareete lighter / battery to 1 pin, gnd to another pin, camera to the 3rd pin and the reverse light power to the 4th pin (not in that order)
fma965 said:
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-to...fixings/halfords-hef554-relay-12v-30amp-4-pin is what i've used (UK)
12v cigareete lighter / battery to 1 pin, gnd to another pin, camera to the 3rd pin and the reverse light power to the 4th pin (not in that order)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. I ordered a 12v/30amp/4pin relay and will install according to your instructions when it arrives.
fma965 said:
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-to...fixings/halfords-hef554-relay-12v-30amp-4-pin is what i've used (UK)
12v cigareete lighter / battery to 1 pin, gnd to another pin, camera to the 3rd pin and the reverse light power to the 4th pin (not in that order)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Relay came yesterday and I installed it. Pull cigarette lighter as 12v power source, wired to the relay switch, and connected rear light cable to relay as trigger.
To my surprise, the problem of video still persists! I can get rear camera video when starting the car, but loss video ~10 minutes after driving when shifting gear to reverse.
I made sure the relay wired correctly (If connected wrong, I would be either stuck in permanent rear camera video or no video after shifting to rear gear). I changed video cable as well to be sure no cable issue. Also noticed that when the problem appears, I have to wait for the head unit to shutdown completely (not to sleep mode) in order to get video back from rear camera.
Not sure if this is MCU bug. The problem started since I had the unit and MCU got updated once. I'll update one more time to see if anything changes.
yves31 said:
Relay came yesterday and I installed it. Pull cigarette lighter as 12v power source, wired to the relay switch, and connected rear light cable to relay as trigger.
To my surprise, the problem of video still persists! I can get rear camera video when starting the car, but loss video ~10 minutes after driving when shifting gear to reverse.
I made sure the relay wired correctly (If connected wrong, I would be either stuck in permanent rear camera video or no video after shifting to rear gear). I changed video cable as well to be sure no cable issue. Also noticed that when the problem appears, I have to wait for the head unit to shutdown completely (not to sleep mode) in order to get video back from rear camera.
Not sure if this is MCU bug. The problem started since I had the unit and MCU got updated once. I'll update one more time to see if anything changes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What MCU manufacturer and what version? i'm on KGL crossflashed to HA
fma965 said:
What MCU manufacturer and what version? i'm on KGL crossflashed to HA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's MTCD_KD_V2.41_1, and is already the latest version. I'll try to flash other manufacturer's MCU since most of them are compatible.
Prior to flashing, I should start by erasing current MCU settings and set to defaults. Do you know the best way to do so?
Edit:
MCU flashed to HA-2.52, but problem not changed. Seems to be a hardware issue, or compatibility issue with Prius.
I tried to wire rear camera to front video input. Image did show up, but I had to press a button each time when switching to back gear. I may have to live with the issue.
Strangely enough I have a 2010 Prius and yes I have a similar issue. Mine works almost always, but if I switch to reverse, then back to any gear, then back to reverse, more then 5-6 time during a minute, then I have the same as you. I'm pretty sure we have the same cause. If I reboot the unit everything is ok. Our situation is definitely different to the german cars as they have a detection circuit for failed bulb and that is the reason for their issues. Ours don't have that, at least ZVW30 Prius. I doubt it's the power or the camera. That is the unit itself and as you say probably poor hardware design.
Agree with you.
Additional note:
I had some issues after cross flashing MCU. Lost RDS in radio and iGo became very slow. Now I flash original KD MCU back and everything got back to normal. Cross flash MCU may not be always a good idea.
Hi you solved?
Mine do the same..its another car...more strange that mine works fine before i change battery...after that start with problems...
It switch but take 5 mins at least...
I rewire.put relay.put direct 12 and nothins..sometimes it works at second..bit after nothings....
Any help?
Thanks
Hello,
I had the same issue and check voltage. For an insane reason, the wire provided with the radar kit was totaly failing.. measured voltage was around 5 volts whereas camera required 12v ( i though to the USB volatge first, but, no!). This red&black wire, i don't known how, went to a huge resistance... may be pinch. I change for good power wire and throw away the bad one. My rear camera get back...
Bruno
yves31 said:
Thank you, fma965. That makes sense.
The car is 2013 Prius. I did not realize cars are getting much smarter since last few years. 12v can come down a lot to save energy. I'll try to rewire the power connection.
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I'm looking for someone who knows how to rewire. You guys know a good place?