For amateur astronomy use, I needed to be able to bring down my A43's LCD brightness to a very low level. After a bit of experimenting, here is a very simple app that lets you have a darker screen than the OS normally allows:
http://code.google.com/p/superdim
It requires root.
This is my first independent Android app, so no doubt I screwed up in some way.
arpruss said:
For amateur astronomy use, I needed to be able to bring down my A43's LCD brightness to a very low level. After a bit of experimenting, here is a very simple app that lets you have a darker screen than the OS normally allows:
http://www.mediafire.com/?zwsg7aeqtcqogpm
It requires root.
This is my first independent Android app, so no doubt I screwed up in some way.
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Click to collapse
Nice, if you need it, make it. Personally, I find using Night Mode in Chainfire better than simply turning down brightness. It turns the brightness down, and renders everything in red, or whatever color you choose, but red is the correct choice to retain night sensitivity.
Obviously, I probably wouldn't watch a movie like that, but it's great for when I'm bow-fishing by full moon and want to change songs or something without wrecking my night vision.
For astronomy purposes, ChainFire3D's night mode won't be enough. At the lowest normal system backlight setting, if one is fully dark adapted under a dark sky, the amount of light leaking through the black pixels will be enormous--the screen will look grey rather than black (well, I haven't tried it, but I have experience with other devices). What one needs to do for serious night vision protection is to BOTH turn the view to red with ChainFire3D AND dim the backlight to a very low level with this app. And I am not even sure this will be fully satisfactory, because on my A43 the amount of light leakage is really big.
By the way, I posted a new version and source, and renamed the project to SuperDim. I also added a toggle for the power LED, since they made it green rather than red.
arpruss said:
For astronomy purposes, ChainFire3D's night mode won't be enough. At the lowest normal system backlight setting, if one is fully dark adapted under a dark sky, the amount of light leaking through the black pixels will be enormous--the screen will look grey rather than black (well, I haven't tried it, but I have experience with other devices). What one needs to do for serious night vision protection is to BOTH turn the view to red with ChainFire3D AND dim the backlight to a very low level with this app. And I am not even sure this will be fully satisfactory, because on my A43 the amount of light leakage is really big.
By the way, I posted a new version and source, and renamed the project to SuperDim. I also added a toggle for the power LED, since they made it green rather than red.
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Hmm. That's good to know for the A43. I'd like to know what you think of the night mode in chainfire, just because there aren't many other people who worry about this topic. I live in St. Louis, a big city, so you probably have less ambient light, but I also wonder if my A101 gets darker than the A43. Even at night, I can turn it down to the point that I really can't read a damn thing.
Great idea with the Power LED. Once again, I don't think light levels drop low enough in St. Louis for it to bother me, but I hadn't even thought of disabling it.
To really be dark adapted, you need to be away from white light for about 45 minutes. (Though I find that after 15 minutes the payoff diminishes.) It's not going to happen outdoors in a big city.
I added profiles (three night, two day), and integrated SuperDim with ChainFire3D, so if you have ChainFire3D installed, you can control its night mode directly from SuperDim, and even include its night mode setting in a profile.
For my own use, I wanted a red screen dim profile for astronomy, a green screen dim profile for reading books in the dark, a dim full color profile for other night use, a bright green profile sometimes for reading books in the day, and a full color bright profile. But you can save whatever you want in the five profile slots.
I've been using figuring out the light control stuff for SuperDim as an opportunity for learning how to program for Android in preparation for writing (not from scratch--I got a donation of the AstroTools source code under the GPL to start with, and I may port some code from open2sky and AstroInfo for PalmOS) a high-end astronomy app. (I'm an experienced PalmOS developer, but quite new to Android.) I'm actually quite pleased. I was dreading java (I've usually developed in C), but I am finding Android development, especially with Eclipse, surprisingly pleasant.
arpruss said:
To really be dark adapted, you need to be away from white light for about 45 minutes. (Though I find that after 15 minutes the payoff diminishes.) It's not going to happen outdoors in a big city.
I added profiles (three night, two day), and integrated SuperDim with ChainFire3D, so if you have ChainFire3D installed, you can control its night mode directly from SuperDim, and even include its night mode setting in a profile.
For my own use, I wanted a red screen dim profile for astronomy, a green screen dim profile for reading books in the dark, a dim full color profile for other night use, a bright green profile sometimes for reading books in the day, and a full color bright profile. But you can save whatever you want in the five profile slots.
I've been using figuring out the light control stuff for SuperDim as an opportunity for learning how to program for Android in preparation for writing (not from scratch--I got a donation of the AstroTools source code under the GPL to start with, and I may port some code from open2sky and AstroInfo for PalmOS) a high-end astronomy app. (I'm an experienced PalmOS developer, but quite new to Android.) I'm actually quite pleased. I was dreading java (I've usually developed in C), but I am finding Android development, especially with Eclipse, surprisingly pleasant.
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Click to collapse
Yeah, my point exactly. I'm about 15 miles away from the city when out on the river, but that's not really far enough to get out of the city's light pollution.
Great work integrating with Chainfire. I'll give it a try next time I'm out. It should be nice having everything in one place.
I'll be looking forward to the astronomy app. It's been a looong time since I've worked on one, but I still have the DOS version of CyberSky I helped develop, so I guess I still have a fondness for them.
I posted 0.23, fixing a bug that made day2 = day1.
And I posted 0.30, adding support for toggling keyboard and button backlight on devices that have them.
I use screen filter to make my screen dimmer..
its in the market..
1. As far as I can tell, Screen Filter doesn't adjust the backlight--it only lowers the LCD pixel intensity. As a result, even if you turn Screen Filter to something really low like 2%, if you take your device to a dark area, you'll see a grey glow coming from the screen, because the backlight leaks through the black pixels.
To remedy the grey glow issue, you need to turn the backlight down, but the OS only lets you turn it so far down (10/255 on my A43; some phones only allow 20/255) without directly writing to /sys/class/leds/lcd-backlight/brightness (which needs root, and is what SuperDim does).
I also suspect that in a dark area, with brightness set to a low value, lowering backlight will produce a more visually attractive image than Screen Filter, because lowering the backlight will make a black background be fairly black.
That's all for backlit LCD screens. OLED screens are a completely different kettle of fish, and SuperDim won't help you much there (though it'll still let you set themes controlling LEDs and ChainFire3D nightmode).
2. I generalized the code a little so it should let you control whatever LEDs your device has, as long as they have a /sys/class/leds/*/brightness interface.
3. By the way, ChainFire3D's nightmode is a touch imperfect: if you set it to red, I think it just turns off the green and blue channels. That means that green and blue visual elements cease to be visible. A somewhat better nightmode would convert the image from RGB to grayscale, and then turn off the green and blue channels. I don't know how easy to implement that would be--I don't know enough about GL blending (I tried to google but couldn't find an answer simple enough for me to understand).
arpruss said:
1. As far as I can tell, Screen Filter doesn't adjust the backlight--it only lowers the LCD pixel intensity. As a result, even if you turn Screen Filter to something really low like 2%, if you take your device to a dark area, you'll see a grey glow coming from the screen, because the backlight leaks through the black pixels.
To remedy the grey glow issue, you need to turn the backlight down, but the OS only lets you turn it so far down (10/255 on my A43; some phones only allow 20/255) without directly writing to /sys/class/leds/lcd-backlight/brightness (which needs root, and is what SuperDim does).
I also suspect that in a dark area, with brightness set to a low value, lowering backlight will produce a more visually attractive image than Screen Filter, because lowering the backlight will make a black background be fairly black.
That's all for backlit LCD screens. OLED screens are a completely different kettle of fish, and SuperDim won't help you much there (though it'll still let you set themes controlling LEDs and ChainFire3D nightmode).
2. I generalized the code a little so it should let you control whatever LEDs your device has, as long as they have a /sys/class/leds/*/brightness interface.
3. By the way, ChainFire3D's nightmode is a touch imperfect: if you set it to red, I think it just turns off the green and blue channels. That means that green and blue visual elements cease to be visible. A somewhat better nightmode would convert the image from RGB to grayscale, and then turn off the green and blue channels. I don't know how easy to implement that would be--I don't know enough about GL blending (I tried to google but couldn't find an answer simple enough for me to understand).
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I assumed it did convert to greyscale first before tinting, but you may be right. I'll have to think how to test that.
msticninja said:
I assumed it did convert to greyscale first before tinting, but you may be right. I'll have to think how to test that.
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Click to collapse
Quick test: If you set CF3D to blue, anything that's pure yellow goes black. For example, if you go to SuperDim, the left half of the brightness adjustment bar is yellow and disappears completely.
Another test: go with the browser to http://www.w3schools.com/html/html_colors.asp in red mode. Notice that the blue 0000FF and green 00FF00 samples can't be distinguished from 000000 black, while the red FF0000 can't be distinguished from white FFFFFF.
arpruss said:
Quick test: If you set CF3D to blue, anything that's pure yellow goes black. For example, if you go to SuperDim, the left half of the brightness adjustment bar is yellow and disappears completely.
Another test: go with the browser to http://www.w3schools.com/html/html_colors.asp in red mode. Notice that the blue 0000FF and green 00FF00 samples can't be distinguished from 000000 black, while the red FF0000 can't be distinguished from white FFFFFF.
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Click to collapse
Seems like pretty clear results to me. I wonder if converting to greyscale first would even be feasible, from a coding, and from a processor cycle standpoint. It would have to use extra power, but I wonder how much. It doesn't really matter for me, everything I need to do is doable, but interesting nonetheless.
msticninja said:
Seems like pretty clear results to me. I wonder if converting to greyscale first would even be feasible, from a coding, and from a processor cycle standpoint. It would have to use extra power, but I wonder how much. It doesn't really matter for me, everything I need to do is doable, but interesting nonetheless.
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Click to collapse
There may be a way of hardware accelerating this.
As topic says, what color settings are you using? Any of the preset profiles or your own expert settings? I have been playing around with the settings in the expert mode, but can't really find anything that looks better than the auto setting.
If you are using your custom expert settings, please post a screenshot of it here.
According to some reviews I've read, Expert with the warmth cranked all the way up was the "most accurate". I didn't really like how this looked as it just made the display look more red, not necessarily "warmer". I settled on Expert with the Red and Blue sliders dialed back one notch. I also cranked up the saturation one step and dialed back the sharpness slightly. This resulted in a bit of a warmer and sharper image that I'm content with but I really miss KCAL.
EDIT: Anandtech just released their review of this phone. They recommend that you use the "Expert" Color settings and turn the blue slider all the way down. It looks better but the display is still way too blue.
I use Expert.
Color Temperature is at 50%.
Red is at 100%.
Green is at 100%.
Blue is at 50%.
Saturation is at 100%
Hue is at 50%.
Sharpness is at 50%.
Color Filter is set to off.
I use Expert. Im searching a better black
Color Temperature is at 100%.
Red is at 0%.
Green is at 100%.
Blue is at 0%.
Saturation is at 100%
Hue is at 75%.
Sharpness is at 75%.
Color Filter is set to off.
try it!
Using expert
Saturation 50%
Hue 25%
Sharpness 0
Color temperature 75%
Red 50%
Green 75%
Blue 25%
This is what looks best to my eyes after time spent fiddling with it.
Auto with Comfort View "always on".
Now that and if I switch off comfort view or look at other phones I can clearly figure out the "blueness". The comfort view on the G7 is an excellent setting and something users should use of a couple of hours and feel the difference.
What makes color filer
What's your lcd display?
1) dial *#*#64663#*#*
2) Version Information
3) Check under "TP:"
Mine is EBBG
Also, is there a way to adjust color temperature? I wish we had the color temperature settings for warm or cool displays
EBBG, too.
I like having on the night light mode all the time. I don't like the blue color all phones have.
Same here and I also think it's a little bit cold. But having night mode on all the time? Way too warm for me....
I had this also and my colors here is somehow slightly warm compared to my xperia z lcd
rfkd said:
Same here and I also think it's a little bit cold. But having night mode on all the time? Way too warm for me....
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You can set the intensity. It's better for your eyes (or that's what they say). And you get used to it in a few hours But it's personal preference.
adriakus said:
You can set the intensity. It's better for your eyes (or that's what they say). And you get used to it in a few hours But it's personal preference.
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Click to collapse
How to set intensity?
Just go to settings/display/night light. There is a slider there.
I also placed a shortcut in the quick tiles so I can turn it off if I want to and get to the slider.
If you get root and Kernel Adiutor, (maybe necessary to flash new kernel), you can set through kernel native RGB, saturation options, etc. It's called KCAL color calibration. There are posts at xda with even different profiles (think like 'how to turn lcd into amoled'). I don't have the A2, but since reviews complain about blue tint and lack of display calibration as in MIUI I thought this could be the solution for AO.
I also complain from this ****, I compred color temperature to my friend's phone (with miui)
And I found a huge difference in color temperature!!
Does anyone know how to turn off the s20's adaptive display feature? (I'm not asking about adaptive brightness.) I'm on a US snapdragon, unlocked, regular S20. Thanks!
I am referring to:
"Samsung's adaptive super AMOLED screen optimizes the color range, saturation, and sharpness of the picture depending on what you're watching or doing."
https://www.samsung.com/us/support/answer/ANS00063051/
The vivid/natural, white balance, and advanced RGB settings mentioned in that link do NOT seem to impact the adaptive display feature. (And in fact, white balance and RGB settings don't seem to do anything at all... If anyone has thoughts about why THAT is, or how to make them actually have an effect, I'm interested.)
I have tried turning off dark mode completely, turning off the video enhancer, and turning off the dark mode on wallpaper, but the problem persists and impacts things like apps and pages in Chrome - basically everything.
If I look at my task switcher, app screens will often look the way I want them to in the preview, but when I click on one, after about a second the display adjusts and changes the image to something brighter, whiter, and less what I want. This is true whether adaptive brightness is on OR off.
I'm trying to use a screen filter to manually set the screen to the settings I need, and it feels like the screen is fighting the filter and countering it, and I think this business with the adaptive display optimizing color and saturation could be the problem. Or if you have other ideas for the source of the problem, I want to hear them.
Any help is appreciated!
Erre én is k
dovesong said:
Does anyone know how to turn off the s20's adaptive display feature? (I'm not asking about adaptive brightness.) I'm on a US snapdragon, unlocked, regular S20. Thanks!
I am referring to:
"Samsung's adaptive super AMOLED screen optimizes the color range, saturation, and sharpness of the picture depending on what you're watching or doing."
https://www.samsung.com/us/support/answer/ANS00063051/
The vivid/natural, white balance, and advanced RGB settings mentioned in that link do NOT seem to impact the adaptive display feature. (And in fact, white balance and RGB settings don't seem to do anything at all... If anyone has thoughts about why THAT is, or how to make them actually have an effect, I'm interested.)
I have tried turning off dark mode completely, turning off the video enhancer, and turning off the dark mode on wallpaper, but the problem persists and impacts things like apps and pages in Chrome - basically everything.
If I look at my task switcher, app screens will often look the way I want them to in the preview, but when I click on one, after about a second the display adjusts and changes the image to something brighter, whiter, and less what I want. This is true whether adaptive brightness is on OR off.
I'm trying to use a screen filter to manually set the screen to the settings I need, and it feels like the screen is fighting the filter and countering it, and I think this business with the adaptive display optimizing color and saturation could be the problem. Or if you have other ideas for the source of the problem, I want to hear them.
Any help is appreciated!
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Click to collapse
they removed the option to close adaptive display since Note 9 starting from s10 it is always on and can't be disabled
They removed the option to close adaptive display since Note 9 starting from s10 it is always on and can't be disabled
It was something like attached picture on Note 9
Ah hah! I think I figured out a solution to my problem (which was that the whites were too blue and bright and vivid as compared to everything else on the screen, no matter what settings I used on Twilight or another screen filtering app). For anyone who comes after me with a similar issue: the native blue light filter doesn't JUST turn on/off - it has an opacity setting which you can find and adjust by clicking on "blue light filter" in your display settings menu, to the left of the on/off toggle switch. Turning it all the way up (to the right) tones down the whites and blues without impacting the rest of the colors on the screen, which for me at least creates a much better color display ratio.