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For amateur astronomy use, I needed to be able to bring down my A43's LCD brightness to a very low level. After a bit of experimenting, here is a very simple app that lets you have a darker screen than the OS normally allows:
http://code.google.com/p/superdim
It requires root.
This is my first independent Android app, so no doubt I screwed up in some way.
arpruss said:
For amateur astronomy use, I needed to be able to bring down my A43's LCD brightness to a very low level. After a bit of experimenting, here is a very simple app that lets you have a darker screen than the OS normally allows:
http://www.mediafire.com/?zwsg7aeqtcqogpm
It requires root.
This is my first independent Android app, so no doubt I screwed up in some way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice, if you need it, make it. Personally, I find using Night Mode in Chainfire better than simply turning down brightness. It turns the brightness down, and renders everything in red, or whatever color you choose, but red is the correct choice to retain night sensitivity.
Obviously, I probably wouldn't watch a movie like that, but it's great for when I'm bow-fishing by full moon and want to change songs or something without wrecking my night vision.
For astronomy purposes, ChainFire3D's night mode won't be enough. At the lowest normal system backlight setting, if one is fully dark adapted under a dark sky, the amount of light leaking through the black pixels will be enormous--the screen will look grey rather than black (well, I haven't tried it, but I have experience with other devices). What one needs to do for serious night vision protection is to BOTH turn the view to red with ChainFire3D AND dim the backlight to a very low level with this app. And I am not even sure this will be fully satisfactory, because on my A43 the amount of light leakage is really big.
By the way, I posted a new version and source, and renamed the project to SuperDim. I also added a toggle for the power LED, since they made it green rather than red.
arpruss said:
For astronomy purposes, ChainFire3D's night mode won't be enough. At the lowest normal system backlight setting, if one is fully dark adapted under a dark sky, the amount of light leaking through the black pixels will be enormous--the screen will look grey rather than black (well, I haven't tried it, but I have experience with other devices). What one needs to do for serious night vision protection is to BOTH turn the view to red with ChainFire3D AND dim the backlight to a very low level with this app. And I am not even sure this will be fully satisfactory, because on my A43 the amount of light leakage is really big.
By the way, I posted a new version and source, and renamed the project to SuperDim. I also added a toggle for the power LED, since they made it green rather than red.
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Click to collapse
Hmm. That's good to know for the A43. I'd like to know what you think of the night mode in chainfire, just because there aren't many other people who worry about this topic. I live in St. Louis, a big city, so you probably have less ambient light, but I also wonder if my A101 gets darker than the A43. Even at night, I can turn it down to the point that I really can't read a damn thing.
Great idea with the Power LED. Once again, I don't think light levels drop low enough in St. Louis for it to bother me, but I hadn't even thought of disabling it.
To really be dark adapted, you need to be away from white light for about 45 minutes. (Though I find that after 15 minutes the payoff diminishes.) It's not going to happen outdoors in a big city.
I added profiles (three night, two day), and integrated SuperDim with ChainFire3D, so if you have ChainFire3D installed, you can control its night mode directly from SuperDim, and even include its night mode setting in a profile.
For my own use, I wanted a red screen dim profile for astronomy, a green screen dim profile for reading books in the dark, a dim full color profile for other night use, a bright green profile sometimes for reading books in the day, and a full color bright profile. But you can save whatever you want in the five profile slots.
I've been using figuring out the light control stuff for SuperDim as an opportunity for learning how to program for Android in preparation for writing (not from scratch--I got a donation of the AstroTools source code under the GPL to start with, and I may port some code from open2sky and AstroInfo for PalmOS) a high-end astronomy app. (I'm an experienced PalmOS developer, but quite new to Android.) I'm actually quite pleased. I was dreading java (I've usually developed in C), but I am finding Android development, especially with Eclipse, surprisingly pleasant.
arpruss said:
To really be dark adapted, you need to be away from white light for about 45 minutes. (Though I find that after 15 minutes the payoff diminishes.) It's not going to happen outdoors in a big city.
I added profiles (three night, two day), and integrated SuperDim with ChainFire3D, so if you have ChainFire3D installed, you can control its night mode directly from SuperDim, and even include its night mode setting in a profile.
For my own use, I wanted a red screen dim profile for astronomy, a green screen dim profile for reading books in the dark, a dim full color profile for other night use, a bright green profile sometimes for reading books in the day, and a full color bright profile. But you can save whatever you want in the five profile slots.
I've been using figuring out the light control stuff for SuperDim as an opportunity for learning how to program for Android in preparation for writing (not from scratch--I got a donation of the AstroTools source code under the GPL to start with, and I may port some code from open2sky and AstroInfo for PalmOS) a high-end astronomy app. (I'm an experienced PalmOS developer, but quite new to Android.) I'm actually quite pleased. I was dreading java (I've usually developed in C), but I am finding Android development, especially with Eclipse, surprisingly pleasant.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, my point exactly. I'm about 15 miles away from the city when out on the river, but that's not really far enough to get out of the city's light pollution.
Great work integrating with Chainfire. I'll give it a try next time I'm out. It should be nice having everything in one place.
I'll be looking forward to the astronomy app. It's been a looong time since I've worked on one, but I still have the DOS version of CyberSky I helped develop, so I guess I still have a fondness for them.
I posted 0.23, fixing a bug that made day2 = day1.
And I posted 0.30, adding support for toggling keyboard and button backlight on devices that have them.
I use screen filter to make my screen dimmer..
its in the market..
1. As far as I can tell, Screen Filter doesn't adjust the backlight--it only lowers the LCD pixel intensity. As a result, even if you turn Screen Filter to something really low like 2%, if you take your device to a dark area, you'll see a grey glow coming from the screen, because the backlight leaks through the black pixels.
To remedy the grey glow issue, you need to turn the backlight down, but the OS only lets you turn it so far down (10/255 on my A43; some phones only allow 20/255) without directly writing to /sys/class/leds/lcd-backlight/brightness (which needs root, and is what SuperDim does).
I also suspect that in a dark area, with brightness set to a low value, lowering backlight will produce a more visually attractive image than Screen Filter, because lowering the backlight will make a black background be fairly black.
That's all for backlit LCD screens. OLED screens are a completely different kettle of fish, and SuperDim won't help you much there (though it'll still let you set themes controlling LEDs and ChainFire3D nightmode).
2. I generalized the code a little so it should let you control whatever LEDs your device has, as long as they have a /sys/class/leds/*/brightness interface.
3. By the way, ChainFire3D's nightmode is a touch imperfect: if you set it to red, I think it just turns off the green and blue channels. That means that green and blue visual elements cease to be visible. A somewhat better nightmode would convert the image from RGB to grayscale, and then turn off the green and blue channels. I don't know how easy to implement that would be--I don't know enough about GL blending (I tried to google but couldn't find an answer simple enough for me to understand).
arpruss said:
1. As far as I can tell, Screen Filter doesn't adjust the backlight--it only lowers the LCD pixel intensity. As a result, even if you turn Screen Filter to something really low like 2%, if you take your device to a dark area, you'll see a grey glow coming from the screen, because the backlight leaks through the black pixels.
To remedy the grey glow issue, you need to turn the backlight down, but the OS only lets you turn it so far down (10/255 on my A43; some phones only allow 20/255) without directly writing to /sys/class/leds/lcd-backlight/brightness (which needs root, and is what SuperDim does).
I also suspect that in a dark area, with brightness set to a low value, lowering backlight will produce a more visually attractive image than Screen Filter, because lowering the backlight will make a black background be fairly black.
That's all for backlit LCD screens. OLED screens are a completely different kettle of fish, and SuperDim won't help you much there (though it'll still let you set themes controlling LEDs and ChainFire3D nightmode).
2. I generalized the code a little so it should let you control whatever LEDs your device has, as long as they have a /sys/class/leds/*/brightness interface.
3. By the way, ChainFire3D's nightmode is a touch imperfect: if you set it to red, I think it just turns off the green and blue channels. That means that green and blue visual elements cease to be visible. A somewhat better nightmode would convert the image from RGB to grayscale, and then turn off the green and blue channels. I don't know how easy to implement that would be--I don't know enough about GL blending (I tried to google but couldn't find an answer simple enough for me to understand).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I assumed it did convert to greyscale first before tinting, but you may be right. I'll have to think how to test that.
msticninja said:
I assumed it did convert to greyscale first before tinting, but you may be right. I'll have to think how to test that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Quick test: If you set CF3D to blue, anything that's pure yellow goes black. For example, if you go to SuperDim, the left half of the brightness adjustment bar is yellow and disappears completely.
Another test: go with the browser to http://www.w3schools.com/html/html_colors.asp in red mode. Notice that the blue 0000FF and green 00FF00 samples can't be distinguished from 000000 black, while the red FF0000 can't be distinguished from white FFFFFF.
arpruss said:
Quick test: If you set CF3D to blue, anything that's pure yellow goes black. For example, if you go to SuperDim, the left half of the brightness adjustment bar is yellow and disappears completely.
Another test: go with the browser to http://www.w3schools.com/html/html_colors.asp in red mode. Notice that the blue 0000FF and green 00FF00 samples can't be distinguished from 000000 black, while the red FF0000 can't be distinguished from white FFFFFF.
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Click to collapse
Seems like pretty clear results to me. I wonder if converting to greyscale first would even be feasible, from a coding, and from a processor cycle standpoint. It would have to use extra power, but I wonder how much. It doesn't really matter for me, everything I need to do is doable, but interesting nonetheless.
msticninja said:
Seems like pretty clear results to me. I wonder if converting to greyscale first would even be feasible, from a coding, and from a processor cycle standpoint. It would have to use extra power, but I wonder how much. It doesn't really matter for me, everything I need to do is doable, but interesting nonetheless.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There may be a way of hardware accelerating this.
Well, after 5 months of looking out for the best values, I've experimented and all and found out these to be the best. Even at lowest brightness, the screen is crisp and clear just like it's supposed to be.
People who have the Purple Screen issue, I highly recommend you use these values.
Requirements -
1. Franco Kernel Updater (TKT wouldn't give that much brightness/crispyness to the screen)
2. ICS Gradient Fix (Check Signature)
3. Franco Kernel
First up, flash Franco's latest kernel.
Secondly, make sure you don't have any 2 or more applications which have Color Control options (Like, Franco Kernel Updater and TKT - Remove TKT and stay with Franco). If you do have 2 or more installed, please set all values to default on all applications including Franco's. (In TKT, click on menu and select reset preferences and reboot).
Third, fire up Franco Kernel Updater and get to the CC options and set these :
Color Multipliers -
Red - 280
Green - 292
Blue - 350
Gamma -
Red - 4
Green - 0
Blue - 9
Disable Contrast Adaptive Brightness - Yes (Tick)
Contrast Control : -24
OMAP Gamma - 1.2
These values work BEST with MoDaCo's JB Build. Tested on Jr1, Jr.1.1, Jr2.
Please note : This is simply a band aid, not a total fix. The purple screen and grain issue is probably a hardware issue. This settings are extremely crisp on my device. You need to get adapted to them.
Thanks to -
1. Franco for his amazing kernel and application.
2. Morfic for introducing contrast control into the kernel world and of course for his kindness. (You're the sweetest developer I've talked to).
Best of luck with these settings guys!
Please, don't forget to click "Thanks"!
It made everything look over-saturated for me.. plus, is it safe to jack up the settings like this?
It did improve the grainy screen on low brightness problem, though.
Well, i think the best values i've EVER Seen.
Oh dear, so f****ng awesome.
via Google Galaxy Nexus
Made my eyes hurt.. Too cold.. I'm trying to get my screen as close to 6500k as possible.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Thank you for this! By far the best optimization of colors I've ever seen. Maybe colors are a bit over-saturated but thats how Super AMOLED should produce.
Doesn't lacking the values up that high create burn in???
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using xda premium
craigbailey1986 said:
Doesn't lacking the values up that high create burn in???
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try reducing every multiplier value by 40. 280 to 240, 292 to 252 and 300 to 260.
This can never be an all-in-one "fix" because of the way screen technology works. Everyone's screen will have different degrees of the problem itself (purple tint & grain), on top of that they will all have a slightly different color temperature, contrast level, saturation etc. By providing the values that worked for you, you're just going to have a thread where half the people think it looks great, half think it looks awful, and everyone thinks everyone else is crazy.
A better idea might be to describe the steps you took to arrive at your own numbers, things you looked for, how you tweaked them to get to the best values.
Look Excellent to me - Screen absolutely Pops, so vivid and the gradient issues are not visible.
Thanks so much!
Those high values are gonna kill your screen
OP settings work well for me (similar to my 200 215 280, -2 0 10, -23, CAB off), but OMAP always makes things worse IMO. With OMAP at 1.2 I instantly see banding again where with it off the gradients are smooth. OP settings with OMAP 1.0 are excellent however, reducing the magenta and yellowing I was seeing with my others. I am worried about the burn-in though..
What's this about burn in? Do these settings cause it?
I sort-of mispoke. Burn-in is possible, but high multipliers are more worried to wear out those pixels/degrade them faster.
Edit: I'm going for more of a "Trinity Blue" sort of solution now: 215 235 280, -2 0 15, -24, CAD off, OMAP unset. Still trying to find that balance that gets rid of the magenta/yellow at all points.
Okay guys try out 180,192 and 250 as the color multipliers. No burn issues then. I'm on it right now. Its great!
I'm using Trinity kernel, TKT, and Display Tester Pro for calibration. The gamma test shows that my particular settings should be red=2, green=3, blue=2. The color gamma settings are not relative to one another and are not "mixed together" for adjusting color. Each one is a separate adjustment for that color's correct level of brightness for midtones, relative to darkest and lightest levels. Together, the three settings add up to correct gray brightness levels, not to correct gray colorlessness.
If you look at a chart containing only black, 50% gray, and white, the color multipliers should be adjusted to remove any trace of color tint from the gray. The easiest way to do it is set the weakest color to 200 and reduce the other two colors until the gray has no color tint at all. The properly set color gamma settings, on the other hand, should make the 50% gray have the correct lightness level.
If you have yellow tint, there's not enough blue. Magenta tint means not enough green. Cyan tint, not enough red.
The color multipliers, unlike the gamma settings, are relative to one another. Once you have them set correctly relative to one another, moving them all up or all down together pnly changes the overall brightness of the display. The wrong overall brightness level will remove detail from either the black end or the white end. Too much brightness is also bad for the screen, not to mention battery drain.
So anyway I'll shut up now and I hope everyone gets their screens looking perfect.
gsm gnex / cm9 / trinity / 1420 MHz
for whatever reason trinity seems to be giving me better screen color, but im sure I could do the same with franco, anyways, my gamma settings are untouched, I found that modifying the color to these values makes the purple tint go away for me:
Red:135
Green:135
Blue:190
Trinity Contrast -15 to -25
Have you tried adjusting it for 18% gray? I can nail it pretty close with 180,150,190 and 8,0,8 but gamma is a complete ***** on this display...
strumcat said:
I'm using Trinity kernel, TKT, and Display Tester Pro for calibration. The gamma test shows that my particular settings should be red=2, green=3, blue=2. The color gamma settings are not relative to one another and are not "mixed together" for adjusting color. Each one is a separate adjustment for that color's correct level of brightness for midtones, relative to darkest and lightest levels. Together, the three settings add up to correct gray brightness levels, not to correct gray colorlessness.
If you look at a chart containing only black, 50% gray, and white, the color multipliers should be adjusted to remove any trace of color tint from the gray. The easiest way to do it is set the weakest color to 200 and reduce the other two colors until the gray has no color tint at all. The properly set color gamma settings, on the other hand, should make the 50% gray have the correct lightness level.
If you have yellow tint, there's not enough blue. Magenta tint means not enough green. Cyan tint, not enough red.
The color multipliers, unlike the gamma settings, are relative to one another. Once you have them set correctly relative to one another, moving them all up or all down together pnly changes the overall brightness of the display. The wrong overall brightness level will remove detail from either the black end or the white end. Too much brightness is also bad for the screen, not to mention battery drain.
So anyway I'll shut up now and I hope everyone gets their screens looking perfect.
gsm gnex / cm9 / trinity / 1420 MHz
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
arzbhatia said:
Okay guys try out 180,192 and 250 as the color multipliers. No burn issues then. I'm on it right now. Its great!
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Click to collapse
It's been discussed few times already - going above 200 can lead to screen burn in. On SAMOLED screens blue color wear out first and peeps really shouldn't touch this setting. Better set lower red/green values. Screen will look a bit darker so don't cranck up contrast too much, -10 should be good enough.
herzzreh said:
Made my eyes hurt.. Too cold.. I'm trying to get my screen as close to 6500k as possible.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
look at the graphs.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=29037317&postcount=1
herzzreh said:
Have you tried adjusting it for 18% gray? I can nail it pretty close with 180,150,190 and 8,0,8 but gamma is a complete ***** on this display...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can see where your gamma should by by installing the free version of Display Tester from the Play Store. Go to Color, Gamma, and slide the gray screen to the left to see the red page. Find the vertical bar that most closely matches the red bacground. The number on that bar is where your gamma should be set for that color. Mine is spot on at 2.3. Then slide to green page and do the same. Then the blue page. My green gamma reading is 2.8, meaning it isn't quite as bright as the red or blue, so I have to turn it up a hair. My blue is good at 2.3. The adjustment sliders in TKT only give me whole-number choices, so I get as close as possible with 2, 3, 2. I'm just guessing there, since TKT doesn't have normal gamma increments. Anyway good luck taming your gamma.
galaxy nexus (gsm) / cm9 / trinity @ 1.4GHz
I use my Android tablets for reading, using Google Play Books. I prefer a bright white background. With my Nexus 7 (2013) it's a pure white background, just the way I like it. With the Tab S 8.4 I can't seem to achieve bright white. It's more like a light sepia. I know sepia is a choice but that's a very dark (to my eyes) background. I've also played around with the Screen Mode but none of the choices seem to change the GPB background at all. I've turned Reading Mode on and off but I don't see any difference.
I know there are other reading apps but I like having a large library stored in the Google cloud and the ability to switch devices and have the bookmark change with it.
Any suggestions on how to change the background color for just Google Play Books?
I'm having the same problem with my Galaxy Tab 4 7.0". I've tried everything you have and it also doesn't work. I've also noticed that when I click the home button on my device it turns bright white just before closing so I know that the app and device are capable of displaying the correct color.
I know this isn't an answer to your question, just letting you know that you're not the only one. In fact your post is the first I've seen about this issue and I've been Google searching different variations of the question.
Those are my settings, and whites are white as should be.
kekinash said:
Those are my settings, and whites are white as should be.
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Click to collapse
Yep same thing, plus reading mode is off for me. Whites are whites for me ☺
Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
kekinash said:
Those are my settings, and whites are white as should be.
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Click to collapse
I seem to get better whites with Basic rather than Cinema. When I use Cinema white has a strong blueish tint, especially on video. Whites on Basic are fine while watching movies, YouTube, etc. Google Play Books is now better with Basic and Reading Mode off but it's still not as bright a white as I would like.
For example, I was watching Ex Machina. An early scene has a helicopter flying over a glacier. With Cinema it looked like a sea of blue. I changed to Basic and the snow and ice turned white. You lose the oversaturated colors with Basic but the blueish whites really bother me on the other settings.
Lying in bed last night I turned on Night Mode. I noticed when I pulled down the notification shade, the top portion was still dimly back lit, so I could see the camera cutout and the edges of the screen, no matter how much I dim the backlight.
Well tonight I fired up my Note 9, put it on Night Mode and pulled down the notification shade, and no matter how bright or dim I have the screen, the top part is BLACK. no light. You can't see where the screen ends and the frame begins.
This isn't a huge deal except for battery savings. When an AMOLED screen is true black, those prices shut off. But since the night mode on the N10+ isn't true black those pixels are still lit up and using power.
When viewing video in Netflix or YouTube the black bars are truly black, so I know the screen is capable showing true blacks, I'm just not sure why Sammy changed Night mode so it's no longer truly black.
I have just experienced the same thing. I have a note 9 as well to compare. I'm actually deeply disappointed. I also noticed screen mode only has 2 options... vivid and natural. Where as note 9 has 4 screen modes. I'm trying to figure things out to see if I can get it to be true black.
It's probably normal since it's a night mode and not a black mode ; in which you wouldn't it to make your screen showing heavy contrasted differences that actually made more eye fatigue than the light one.
Maybe I'll finally like this mode on this new phone.
Nastrahl said:
It's probably normal since it's a night mode and not a black mode ; in which you wouldn't it to make your screen showing heavy contrasted differences that actually made more eye fatigue than the light one.
Maybe I'll finally like this mode on this new phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No I understand it's a "Night mode" but I'm comparing it to the Note 9 and Note 8 Night mode where it became a true black. And I ran it in Night mode almost 24/7 for some battery savings as well. Well that doesn't work if Night Mode is just a dark grey rather than a true black.
And I'm not sure how true black and contrast made for more eye fatigue? Have you never watched a 4K movie? The whole point of high def is high contrast with true deep blacks, bright whites, and bright colors.
I also noticed on the quick access home screen in Samsung Browser on dark mode, it's not longer a true black. Now if you turn on High Contrast mode in the browser settings, then the background is a true black, so that panel is capable of turning off the pixels and going true black. This means it was an obvious design choice.
Mr. Orange 645 said:
No I understand it's a "Night mode" but I'm comparing it to the Note 9 and Note 8 Night mode where it became a true black. And I ran it in Night mode almost 24/7 for some battery savings as well. Well that doesn't work if Night Mode is just a dark grey rather than a true black.
And I'm not sure how true black and contrast made for more eye fatigue? Have you never watched a 4K movie? The whole point of high def is high contrast with true deep blacks, bright whites, and bright colors.
I also noticed on the quick access home screen in Samsung Browser on dark mode, it's not longer a true black. Now if you turn on High Contrast mode in the browser settings, then the background is a true black, so that panel is capable of turning off the pixels and going true black. This means it was an obvious design choice.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dark VS black doesn't make much difference battery wise on OLED screens (let me just find the test back and I'll update my post)
Because the notification panel and anywhere else that it matters contains mostly texts and it produce visual retina persistence (not sure if I translated well), plus it's more annoying to read and and eyes accommodate less than in light mode where everything is light too.
There's nothing to do with movies since it's dynamic and constantly changing from a lot of different colours while texts are more static (but going from dark to light scene still hurts)
I agree that it's absolutely a design choice, but in my opinion for the better.
Nastrahl said:
Dark VS black doesn't make much difference battery wise on OLED screens (let me just find the test back and I'll update my post)
Because the notification panel and anywhere else that it matters contains mostly texts and it produce visual retina persistence (not sure if I translated well), plus it's more annoying to read and and eyes accommodate less than in light mode where everything is light too.
There's nothing to do with movies since it's dynamic and constantly changing from a lot of different colours while texts are more static (but going from dark to light scene still hurts)
I agree that it's absolutely a design choice, but in my opinion for the better.
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Click to collapse
I gotcha. Makes sense. I'd like to see some tests on black vs dark. I had always heard and though the battery savings was due to the pixels shutting off. It's why the AOD is black and not just dark.
Buts also weird. I'm replying to this direct from the Gmail notification of your reply. So it opened up the webpage in the webview. Well the top bar above the page that says reply to topic and has had the Gmail overflow button is true black. But the status bar right above it is dark grey.
I guess what bugs me most is it makes the camera cutout stick out, even in the dark. Because I look up an I see a true black for on a dark charcoal background. And I can see the screen edges. I preferred on the Note 9 where it all just blended away with the true black.
But yet, when I watch a movie, the status bar DOES turn off completely and you can't see the camera cutout. Just can't figure out the inconsistency.
Mr. Orange 645 said:
I gotcha. Makes sense. I'd like to see some tests on black vs dark. I had always heard and though the battery savings was due to the pixels shutting off. It's why the AOD is black and not just dark.
Buts also weird. I'm replying to this direct from the Gmail notification of your reply. So it opened up the webpage in the webview. Well the top bar above the page that says reply to topic and has had the Gmail overflow button is true black. But the status bar right above it is dark grey.
I guess what bugs me most is it makes the camera cutout stick out, even in the dark. Because I look up an I see a true black for on a dark charcoal background. And I can see the screen edges. I preferred on the Note 9 where it all just blended away with the true black.
But yet, when I watch a movie, the status bar DOES turn off completely and you can't see the camera cutout. Just can't figure out the inconsistency.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It may be because apps got their own night mode colour settings embedded, while all One UI apps got theirs which are different.
Like, if for Google night mode is all black, their apps will just check about system UI night mode trigger and of its on, apply their own settings.
I can only find that reason for it to be such inconsistent.
Nastrahl said:
It may be because apps got their own night mode colour settings embedded, while all One UI apps got theirs which are different.
Like, if for Google night mode is all black, their apps will just check about system UI night mode trigger and of its on, apply their own settings.
I can only find that reason for it to be such inconsistent.
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Click to collapse
That's a good point/thought. I hadn't thought of that. Damn...I just like consistency, LOL.
Mr. Orange 645 said:
That's a good point/thought. I hadn't thought of that. Damn...I just like consistency, LOL.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I totally understand and agree ! Especially when you like what Samsung did with their UI
In an other hand, there's some third party theme that may be of use to have a black theme : https://forum.xda-developers.com/s10-plus/themes/theme-anxious-t3921645
I don't know if it's working for the Note 10 yet but I think it's just a matter of time before it do
Nastrahl said:
I totally understand and agree ! Especially when you like what Samsung did with their UI
In an other hand, there's some third party theme that may be of use to have a black theme : https://forum.xda-developers.com/s10-plus/themes/theme-anxious-t3921645
I don't know if it's working for the Note 10 yet but I think it's just a matter of time before it do
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm using #hex_ and it works very well on Note10+.
Wysłane z mojego SM-N975F przy użyciu Tapatalka
I just use a theme that's mostly black everywhere. No need for night mode..
One UI notification shade isn't actually black for any of the devices on the One UI. I had an S8+ before this and it looked black but if you take a screenshot and measure the color value, you'll see that it's not black. You can do the same thing on your Note 9. Take a screenshot and extract the color value. Or take a screenshot and then transfer that screenshot to the Note 10 and view it on the Note 10. I guarantee that the Note 9 screenshot of the notification shade will look like the Note 10 notification shade. Black will cause AMOLED smearing which isn't good look.
jkgao said:
One UI notification shade isn't actually black for any of the devices on the One UI. I had an S8+ before this and it looked black but if you take a screenshot and measure the color value, you'll see that it's not black. You can do the same thing on your Note 9. Take a screenshot and extract the color value. Or take a screenshot and then transfer that screenshot to the Note 10 and view it on the Note 10. I guarantee that the Note 9 screenshot of the notification shade will look like the Note 10 notification shade. Black will cause AMOLED smearing which isn't good look.
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So I tried this. Set my Note 9 to Night Mode and took a screen shot. Sent it to my N10+. Guess what? The notification shade in my Note 9 screen shot is pure black when viewed on my N10+ screen.
So I did the opposite. Took a screen shot of N10+ notification shade and sent it to my Note 9, and it appears dark grey.
So I'm not saying you're WRONG, but this is proof that the notification shade on Night Mode on the Note 9 (and the Note 8) was SIGNIFICANTLY darker than the N10+. If they aren't true black, then they are so close at to be indistinguishable from it, whereas the N10+ is definitely lighter than black.
I also just used an app to do a color value sample on my screenshots. Note 9 notification shade is #00000. I believe that is true black?
See my attached screenshots. War Machine is Note 9 (The one with the true black notification shade) and the Darth Vader is the Note 10+ (the one with the dark grey notification shade)
To see what I'm talking about, you may need to turn brightness up on your phone or go in a dark room.
Screenshots of color picker showing Note 9 notification shade is #00000 (true black) and Note 10+ is #080808 (not true black).
koppee1 said:
I just use a theme that's mostly black everywhere. No need for night mode..
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I tried this. The notification shade was still dark grey, not black.
Samsung doesn't use black on the N10, it's that simple. They use a form of grey that's fairly close to pure black, however. The avg person probably uses white themes, so I doubt many will take notice.
Mr. Orange 645 said:
I tried this. The notification shade was still dark grey, not black.
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Look for a different theme. There are black ones. I'd post mine but I can't seem to post screenshots here.
koppee1 said:
Look for a different theme. There are black ones. I'd post mine but I can't seem to post screenshots here.
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It's all good. I fixed it with GoodLock. I have my stock theme and a true black notification shade again.
Thanks!!
Mr. Orange 645 said:
It's all good. I fixed it with GoodLock. I have my stock theme and a true black notification shade again.
Thanks!!
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Write back when you find a solution to make samsung browser black.cheers.
As Nastrahl pointed out it the pixels don't need to be completely off to save a lot of power. I was going for total black but since I adjust brightness manually a little bit of tint to the black looks nicer and makes it easier to gauge the brightness.
You can use the Good lock app Quickstar to make the pull down notification panel any color or darkness level you want. Mine is almost black with a hint of forest green.
My wallpaper is even darker with the same green tint.
When the brightness is too high the wallpaper's green tint is noticeable otherwise it looks black.
Does anyone know how to turn off the s20's adaptive display feature? (I'm not asking about adaptive brightness.) I'm on a US snapdragon, unlocked, regular S20. Thanks!
I am referring to:
"Samsung's adaptive super AMOLED screen optimizes the color range, saturation, and sharpness of the picture depending on what you're watching or doing."
https://www.samsung.com/us/support/answer/ANS00063051/
The vivid/natural, white balance, and advanced RGB settings mentioned in that link do NOT seem to impact the adaptive display feature. (And in fact, white balance and RGB settings don't seem to do anything at all... If anyone has thoughts about why THAT is, or how to make them actually have an effect, I'm interested.)
I have tried turning off dark mode completely, turning off the video enhancer, and turning off the dark mode on wallpaper, but the problem persists and impacts things like apps and pages in Chrome - basically everything.
If I look at my task switcher, app screens will often look the way I want them to in the preview, but when I click on one, after about a second the display adjusts and changes the image to something brighter, whiter, and less what I want. This is true whether adaptive brightness is on OR off.
I'm trying to use a screen filter to manually set the screen to the settings I need, and it feels like the screen is fighting the filter and countering it, and I think this business with the adaptive display optimizing color and saturation could be the problem. Or if you have other ideas for the source of the problem, I want to hear them.
Any help is appreciated!
Erre én is k
dovesong said:
Does anyone know how to turn off the s20's adaptive display feature? (I'm not asking about adaptive brightness.) I'm on a US snapdragon, unlocked, regular S20. Thanks!
I am referring to:
"Samsung's adaptive super AMOLED screen optimizes the color range, saturation, and sharpness of the picture depending on what you're watching or doing."
https://www.samsung.com/us/support/answer/ANS00063051/
The vivid/natural, white balance, and advanced RGB settings mentioned in that link do NOT seem to impact the adaptive display feature. (And in fact, white balance and RGB settings don't seem to do anything at all... If anyone has thoughts about why THAT is, or how to make them actually have an effect, I'm interested.)
I have tried turning off dark mode completely, turning off the video enhancer, and turning off the dark mode on wallpaper, but the problem persists and impacts things like apps and pages in Chrome - basically everything.
If I look at my task switcher, app screens will often look the way I want them to in the preview, but when I click on one, after about a second the display adjusts and changes the image to something brighter, whiter, and less what I want. This is true whether adaptive brightness is on OR off.
I'm trying to use a screen filter to manually set the screen to the settings I need, and it feels like the screen is fighting the filter and countering it, and I think this business with the adaptive display optimizing color and saturation could be the problem. Or if you have other ideas for the source of the problem, I want to hear them.
Any help is appreciated!
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Click to collapse
they removed the option to close adaptive display since Note 9 starting from s10 it is always on and can't be disabled
They removed the option to close adaptive display since Note 9 starting from s10 it is always on and can't be disabled
It was something like attached picture on Note 9
Ah hah! I think I figured out a solution to my problem (which was that the whites were too blue and bright and vivid as compared to everything else on the screen, no matter what settings I used on Twilight or another screen filtering app). For anyone who comes after me with a similar issue: the native blue light filter doesn't JUST turn on/off - it has an opacity setting which you can find and adjust by clicking on "blue light filter" in your display settings menu, to the left of the on/off toggle switch. Turning it all the way up (to the right) tones down the whites and blues without impacting the rest of the colors on the screen, which for me at least creates a much better color display ratio.