if you're looking for charging port fix, here is a small tip i hope could help you..
you can read all the thread or just jump to bottom line
my charging port stopped working after about 3 months of usage.
this was very frustrating, and didn't happen at once. at first i had to put the charging cable in certain direction, and later on i had to put some leverage on that direction, until eventually i couldn't charge at all.
it is known that this phone is one of the hardest to open, and once you put it on the "surgical table" it's hard to finish the job without "scars" , so i do understand those of you who chooses repair stores over fixing adventures. on the other hand, at least in my country, HTC repair cost so much that you ought to think about other options.
So then my tip is for those of you who have the willing and repair equipment.
You'd probably look for replacement charging board, which indeed are very cheap, and then just check out one of the many tear-down youtube videos explaining how to open the phone and replace the port.
i chose to fix the exist port instead.
to be honest, i also bought replacement. but not only it got damaged, i've found out after opening the phone that there are the two different boards for 32G/16G versions. so instead of buying another part, and waiting another month or so until arrival, i figured i can try and check out what went wrong with the current one.
i did use lab microscope to find out the problem, but there weren't many suspects to begin with.
turns out for 3 out of the 5 micro USB pins (the middle 3) - the connection to the board got broken.
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so i just used friend help and soldered the 5, and voilà, phone charging again..
note that -
1. the pins were barely soldered to the board. very little amount of tin
2. I've checked my USB cables and it does look like the metal connector length differ in sizes from one to another. even if not by much, it's clearly visible. so it's very likely that inserting a cable with long connector time after time just broke the connection.
bottom line,
if your charging port malfunctions, and you happen to have soldering equipment, or a friend who does, just carefully solder/strengthen exist soldering of the 5 USB pins to the charging board.
i guess you can even take the board and ask for any electronic repair shop just to solder those. will cost much less than expert store repair
Related
Hi,
My Lumia 900 only charges if I plug in the cable with force and I keep pushing it. I tried other cable and mobile charger, but no luck. Anyone experience this before? Any suggestions?
Thanks
If you have tried multiple cables, it sounds, unfortunately, that it might be the Lumia 900's connector.
If you can shine a bright light into the connector (my eyesight would require me to use a magnifying glass now) just to check that there are no foreign objects like pocket lint; that might find something. While I had not had this happen to my Lumia 900, it had happened several years ago with my iPhone.
Otherwise, the connector might be loose from the main board, especially if the phone had ever taken a tumble while it was plugged in. Hopefully, it would be the former and not the latter.
Airbrushed said:
If you have tried multiple cables, it sounds, unfortunately, that it might be the Lumia 900's connector.
If you can shine a bright light into the connector (my eyesight would require me to use a magnifying glass now) just to check that there are no foreign objects like pocket lint; that might find something. While I had not had this happen to my Lumia 900, it had happened several years ago with my iPhone.
Otherwise, the connector might be loose from the main board, especially if the phone had ever taken a tumble while it was plugged in. Hopefully, it would be the former and not the latter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I disassembled my Lumia 900 today. The port connection to the board seemed okay, but the body of the port which is made of plastics was cracked. It's all make sense why the phone charges only if I forcefully push the cable into the port.
So... I glued the cracked area of the port super glue then pressed it using a small clamp. After several minutes, the glue hardened. Done. I reassembled my phone and tested it. It worked.
I know this is not permanent solution and I don't know how long it will last. But, this is a workaround for user who doesn't have good technical skills of soldering like me.
Pictures:
I didn't take any pictures when I disassemble my phone. I got these pictures through Googling.
The clamp:
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Cracked area of the micro USB port:
see attachment. Red line is the crack.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi guys. Sorry if this is in the wrong thread but thought I'd post up to show how I fixed my note 2 wifi problem,
So my specific model is the sgh-i317m and I'm in the uk, bought the phone recently as I've always fancied one, anyhow when I got the phone home and set it up I had very weak wifi connection, no signal at all up stairs (would disconnect) and even if I was in the same room as the router I wouldn't have any wifi signal bars (unless I was smack bang next to the router)
Anyway I Googled the issues and saw 5 hat it is a common problem, tried all the usual stuff and nothing worked so decided to get my tools out. Anyway here is how and what I did, I'm not sayo g this will work for everyone but it worked for me.
I recommend you have a professional do this unless you have the knowledge and skills base.
Things you'll need;
Small screwdriver set,
Small tweezers
Magnifying glass (optional but makes it somewhat easier)
patience is key here.
Any how,
Once you've removed the back chassis from your phone and mother board you will see these prongs
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*this photo is from Google as I was doing this repair to my daily phone do couldn't use for photos* lol
Anyway on mine this prong had come loose and therefore wasn't contacting properly, I pinpointed this anyway as when you pressed on the back of the phone the signal would boost,
Anyway this is where you need your soldering iron, and a spare motherboard, you could possibly use something else but I had spare motherboards lying around so used one from a crapberry
So once you've let your soldering iron get up to temperature press it as close as you can to the underneath of this prong to liquidise the solder underneath, be patient, I held the soldering iron there for 10-15 seconds before it liquidised. you'll know when it's hot enough as the prong will move, I held it with small tweezers to make it easier.
So now you should have your old prong removed, move this away as not to get confused with the one your replacing it with. Repeat above steps for the one from your spare motherboard.
Once you've done that, if you have a flux pen lightly cover the solder pads, place your prong on them with the tweezers and hold it still, then hold your soldering iron on the prong for about 30-60 seconds to be safe, gently move away your soldering iron away from it and if it's tight on you've done it successfully.
I will post up some photos of the full process but this should be easy enough to follow. And I'm sure you'll be able to find a guide on you tube (if not I'll upload one)
Hope this helps. Feel free to comment with any questions etc.
Hello everyone. My question is related to the pin connector and battery life:
3 months ago, i though it was moment for battery replacement of my S 8.4, but in the process i broke the 6-pin connector placed in the board. So, I tried to deal with it and charge the new battery once, with the connector slightly detached and badly soldered. It went bad since wasn't charging normally, i screwed badly the connector so had to replace it.
I ordered the new connector with an official tech support. Connector took few weeks to arrive (i live in Chile). I did the microsoldering with a lot of troubles, and after watching tutorials and buying soldering stuff, practicing and studying the possible troubles i could face, i finally did it (see the pic). Anyway I'm skeptic about what i just did XD (btw i used soldering paste for smd, really cool stuff)
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Now it's charging, after 3 hrs it went from 20 - 90%. My questions are 2:
1) considering that many experts point out that lithium battery's first charge is extremely important for technical reasons (SEI forming on first charge cycle; non full charge leads to fading over time), should i replace my battery soon, if i stored at 20% for 2 months?
2) how do i know if i soldered correctly the connector, should i consider the time it takes (normally charging cycle was around 3 hrs 30 from 0 - 100%)?
Thanks!
need help with soldering
Hi buddy , have a similar needs as yours, except in my case i did not break the connector , it broke by itself after a few months , guess a bad solder at the samsung factory itself .
So now coming to the point , i ordered a new connector and was thinking to solder it myself as service center was charging a hefty price for a small repair . Could you please guide me as to what all is required to do it properly .
li-ion battery`s dont need a forming charge on first charge.
Dont run the battery too low as the battery can fail, I don't go below 20% (I use a charge level alarm)
I don't charge above 80%(I use a charge alarm) , I have charged to 100% only 7 time in 28months(only after flashing or upgrades to calibrate the battery gauge)
i have used my T800 every day and no problems so far.
John.
Im also having the same problem...
The connector pin just came off from the motherboard...In my case..im so afraid to do the microsoldering,however i tried “reflow solder” heat up the connecter while sticking it on the motherboard for few seconds...then let it cool...yes it was succesfully connected..but its not strong enough...it just came off again when i grabbed the tablet to put on its backcover...The main reason why im scared to do the microsoldering is what if i accidently damaged other components in the motherboard...is there any other way to solve this issue other replacing the motherboard...
This is a little explanation of what happened: by mistake splashed with water a USB-C cable suited for charging. Then I connected it to the G7 to charge it, and immediately got the debris/moisture message:
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LG System Server
Check USB port
Charging blocked due to moisture/debris has been detected. Make sure the USB port and cable are dry and free of debris before charging.
What I did was, perfectly clean the G7 USB port with Electronic Contact Cleaner, and buy a brand new USB-C cable. However, from time to time, the message still appears sometimes when connecting the charger, and always when disconnecting any USB-C to 3.5mm jack audio DAC, probably this happens because it uses more pins than the charger?
I've contacted LG tech support on my region, and they state they'll perform a device reset and OS update, which I don't want either of them, so my best bet is to try to do it myself. The tech support states an IP Ingress Protection test is required to assure it's up to specs, to discourage me to do it myself, but I've seen tutorials on YouTube and they don't replace the cover seal, so I guess it's still protected?
I'll contact tech support again for repair price, and to know more about the back cover seal issue. Until know they didn't want to tell me how much it is, they want me to send the device over, so it's more likely I don't turn the repair down once the device is there even if the fixing is pricey.
Disassemble/assemble video
Finally bought a charging port replacement called "OEM USB Charging Charger Port Dock Connector Mic Flex Cable for LG G7 ThinQ G710" from eBay seller smileelife, apparently it's OEM quality and includes the rubber O-ring. Let's see when it arrives how it looks like.
You can choose between two models, LMG710VM and LMG710EM, which is mine.
Replaced the USB charging port, and working perfectly so far so good.
The problem was, I contacted LG, and they refused to give me a quotation on how much the repair will cost. They just require you to send the phone, which implies a factory reset and software upgrade. I've filed a Consumer Complain against LG due to not facilitating repair prices in advance. Let's see what happens and who do they favour.
The reference for the charging port on my phone is the LG EBR85980107, in case it helps somebody.
Thank you very much...however in my case I used normal charger and after that the fast charger,this way the problem solved. fast charging is causing the problem I think! Its a temporary solution though.
Palauv said:
Thank you very much...however in my case I used normal charger and after that the fast charger,this way the problem solved. fast charging is causing the problem I think! Its a temporary solution though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh I see, I guess you can use iphone wall charger or use a computer. None of them support QC3.0 or similar. Can't test anymore since it's fixed.
Hi all, I have been lurking for a little while and apologize for my first post being a request for help.
I have been attempting to unlock the bootloader on my Fire 7" 9th gen. I managed to make the tablet unresponsive, so had to disconnect the battery. In doing so, I damaged the terminals on the main board (I didn't realize how delicate those pins are). So I had the idea to remove the pins and solder the battery wires directly onto the board (I know, I know...).
Anyway, I managed to destroy the pads (see picture).
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So I started probing about to see where the non-damaged pads are connected to (as shown above). There are some things that aren't clear to me however.
1) What is the function of that third pad, I suspect it is also the ON trigger, but for a second cell?
2) The two positive pads go to VBAT, are these connected in parallel? Ditto for negative.
3) I can't quite work out from the traces if the labelled pads bypass the components in the photo, or if they are just additional connection points for diagnostics.
4) What is the circuit that these components form? Is it a BIM?
It looks to me as though what I have is a 2 cell battery, with individual positive, negative and control lines for each cell. If this is indeed the case, I'm thinking that I can "repair" my damage by connecting to these labelled pads instead. Of course, if these pads bypass the pictured electronics (a BIM/balance charging circuit?), then this is obviously not safe to do.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Well, you see how easy it was to damage them... what makes you think you can repair them?
Repair is much more difficult and tedious than simply unsoldering them.
You need a temperature controlled iron, tools, flux and most the skill level to do so.
You get that by practice and learn from failures.
Not being condescending but after doing this for decades I know how it goes.
Many times you get one shot at repairing it especially when you damage a trace or pad. Damaged plated through holes will need a fine wire inserted to replace the missing connection.
The foil traces and non through hole pads lift up very easily when heated. Multilayered PCBs can be damaged by excessive heat as well. Heat must be controlled, applied fast and accurately. To be soldered metal needs to be clean oxide free and tinned first, this includes fine wire jumpers. A lot of little skills are needed.
Solder tip must be completely tinned with lead based rosin core solder 63/37. Do Not use lead free solder. Wipe tip as needed and always keep it tinned and shiny.
Have extra rosin flux available and desoldering braid. Pad repair kits are available but hard to use and not as good as the original.
A skilled tech may be able to salvage it...
Hi, thanks for your input and advice on dealing with such delicate devices.
I have got another with a broken screen on eBay rather cheap, so I'll take the main board out of that.
Hi, thanks for your input and advice on dealing with such delicate devices.
I have got another with a broken screen on eBay rather cheap, so I'll take the main board out of that.