Manual camera apps: Moon shooting possible? - Nexus 5X Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

Hi, is it possible with the 5X to shoot a clear moon that doesn´t look like a bright light bulb? Normally it should be possible with third party apps by setting the ISO very low and speed up the shutter speed. But when I had the 5X there have been issues f.e. with FV-5. The app often didn´t take a shot when I manually adjusted the shutter speed and I also noticed focusing problems. Maybe someone could test it. Thanks in advance!

Use Lightroom and take picture as RAW (DNG) format. Then edit it. It should be possible, 1/4 shutter speed can handle with that. Set the ISO whatever you like. Depends on perspective.

khanjui said:
Use Lightroom and take picture as RAW (DNG) format. Then edit it. It should be possible, 1/4 shutter speed can handle with that. Set the ISO whatever you like. Depends on perspective.
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Click to collapse
Thanks. But isn´t it better to use faster shutter speeds to get details instead of an overexposed bulb? When shooting moon (or other light sources like that) with the S7 oder the HTC 10 I only get a picture with structures and details by using high shutter speeds.

presets said:
Thanks. But isn´t it better to use faster shutter speeds to get details instead of an overexposed bulb? When shooting moon (or other light sources like that) with the S7 oder the HTC 10 I only get a picture with structures and details by using high shutter speeds.
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Click to collapse
Sure, that's true. You can always use thanks button instead of writing.
Sent from my LG Nexus 5X using XDA Labs

The focal length is too small on mobile phones, you need a proper lens, otherwise the moon will look extremely tiny. But other than that even auto exposure should be able to handle if given that you are using a lens.

tauio111 said:
The focal length is too small on mobile phones, you need a proper lens, otherwise the moon will look extremely tiny. But other than that even auto exposure should be able to handle if given that you are using a lens.
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Click to collapse
With a lens it should be much more easier. I was also able to get some shots with the S7 and HTC10 where you can identify the moon structure, the color and some details only by high shutter speed, low iso and some zooming. It´s not really crisp and really tiny, but still better than a totally overexposed object that looks like a bright spot.

In FV5 use spot metering and put the spot right on the moon. Default is matrix metering and that will always blow out the highlights.
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Related

Best replacement camera app for LGG4?

Has anyone tried any replacement camera apps for the LGG4? Don't get me wrong, I like the stock camera but I do think it lacks a little in features (in auto mode). I tried 'Open Camera' and I really like the extra features but It only has 4x zoom instead of the 8x the stock camera handles. I also don't know if any 3rd party camera apps take full advantage of the G4's laser focus and color spectrum analyzer? Another feature that I like in 'Open Camera' is the ability to select scenes such as back light, indoors, macro and candle light. I know the G4 stock app has automatic scene selection but I like a little more control.
So what do you guys think? The big thing is if any 3rd party apps take full advantage of the G4's hardware? If so, what are some feature packed camera apps?
ProShot for me. Little slow to focus but with ISO 50 and NR off the daylight shots are just amazing.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.riseupgames.proshot2
Odoslané z LG-H815 pomocou Tapatalku
Has it some filters to preview a shot before take it? that's the only thing I miss from the stock camera, the ability to use filters before taking pictures, because sometimes don't have time or mood to postprocess. Thanks!
RocketFoot said:
Has anyone tried any replacement camera apps for the LGG4? Don't get me wrong, I like the stock camera but I do think it lacks a little in features (in auto mode). I tried 'Open Camera' and I really like the extra features but It only has 4x zoom instead of the 8x the stock camera handles. I also don't know if any 3rd party camera apps take full advantage of the G4's laser focus and color spectrum analyzer? Another feature that I like in 'Open Camera' is the ability to select scenes such as back light, indoors, macro and candle light. I know the G4 stock app has automatic scene selection but I like a little more control.
So what do you guys think? The big thing is if any 3rd party apps take full advantage of the G4's hardware? If so, what are some feature packed camera apps?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I woulden't be over concerned by the low zoom capabilities of Open camera. Zoom only degrades the quality and sharpness of the picture anyway... If you really have to use it, i woulden't recommend you go beyond 4x. Other thing, no 3rd party camera app can fully utilize all of the G4's features and capabilities. It's simply not possible, as of yet anyway. So, my advice to you and everyone else is, use the default camera app as it is quite powerfull if you know how to manage the manual settings .
Here is a link that explains in detail the manual mode:
Link
Dude, stock app is best. Learn how to use manual.
NocturnalDroid said:
Dude, stock app is best. Learn how to use manual.
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Click to collapse
I can use the manual camera ok but only for planed shots...takes too much time to catch random shots! Feature rich auto mode is what I am wishing for!
RocketFoot said:
I can use the manual camera ok but only for planed shots...takes too much time to catch random shots! Feature rich auto mode is what I am wishing for!
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Click to collapse
Hm yes, good point. Lol. I used camera360 once, that was good.
Try AZ Camera, NR is a lot better than stock and manual control is still possible.
t68kv said:
Try AZ Camera, NR is a lot better than stock and manual control is still possible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Anyone seen a camera app that has a fancy animated facial recognition reticle like the Galaxy Edge Plus/Note 5's have? It actually moves across the screen and targets a detected face in the scene. I know that it is completely gingerbread, but it would be a pretty cool feature!
wayne_sk said:
ProShot for me. Little slow to focus but with ISO 50 and NR off the daylight shots are just amazing.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.riseupgames.proshot2
Odoslané z LG-H815 pomocou Tapatalku
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Found that there's a free demo for this at https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.riseupgames.proshot_free
Which is nice to try it out. Very restrictive demo, allowing only 2 full res shots. I'm keen to try out the low ISO with the NR off you mention (as I've yet to see a photo at this handset level beat the G4 in a decent lit outdoor shot), but my handset went hot as hell whilst running the demo, possibly showing its using all the available processer power but a bit unsettling for potential longer usage.
:edit: unistalled and let handset cool down. Reinstalled and handset ran uncomfortably hot again. Shame, but thanks for the recommendation.
Hi, just got an LG G4 today and tried a few camera apps. Stock is great and since it has a manual raw mode, no need for 3rd party apps imho.
ProShot is nice and does show a low res preview of dngs in its viewer (useful to send them to PS Express for instance); BUT I have noticed that it does only goes to 0,6s in manual exposure (while stock goes to 30s). So for (ocasional) dng viewing I will use Slingshot Portfolio and for the processing, PS Express, much friendlier than Photomate (which yields slightly sharper pics, but with much worse color balance...)
Snap HDR Camera has an interesting low light mode that merges multiple exposures to increase detail / lower noise, BUT then again you can use manual long exposures in the stock app, which in dark conditions will give better results.
For panos I prefer Google's camera interface and options .
Anyway, those are my quick impressions.
You made my day! Thank you!
This one (especially ability to switch off NR) gives me the best from the G4
Tweaking sharpness and NR should be native and available in Stock camera app in manual mode
Shame on you LG!
wayne_sk said:
ProShot for me. Little slow to focus but with ISO 50 and NR off the daylight shots are just amazing.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.riseupgames.proshot2
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Click to collapse
dawabz94 said:
You made my day! Thank you!
This one (especially ability to switch off NR) gives me the best from the G4
Tweaking sharpness and NR should be native and available in Stock camera app in manual mode
Shame on you LG!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, just tried, and ProShot's no NR setting is amazing! Thanks
Kemby13 said:
no 3rd party camera app can fully utilize all of the G4's features and capabilities.
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Click to collapse
hey Kemby13,
what exactly do you think can proshot or camera fv-5 or other camera apps not utilize from the hardware?
I'm considering buying the LG G4 but have similar thoughts as the thread starter. I'm comfortable with manual modes on cameras and shoot/edit raw with my DSLR but I'm looking for more or better auto modes than the stock camera app can offer. Also lots of reviews show that the auto mode of the G4 is not as good as images taken in auto mode with other smartphones (I'm not speaking of what the LG camera is capable of once it is used in manual mode). I thought that maybe other apps give better images in auto modes than the stock app (plus more options/scene modes). I often find myself in situations where I don't have the time to setup in manual mode but would like to tell the app to at least use a fast shutter speed (sports mode) etc.
my second concern is because I love custom roms. and even though there are hardly any out there for the G4 I'd still try the few available ones and would need a good camera app. Proshot etc will work on any rom (yes, the shutter speed is reduced to max. 0,7).
But what else would I be losing?
To the thread starter: have you reached a solution? I'd be very curious to know.
Thx and greetz,
vercetti.
Proshot doesn't have HDR that I can find. I don't recall if Camera FV-5 does but I prefer the custom modes of Proshot to FV-5.
I would settle for an app that can take pictures using flash in half the time that mine currently does.
I am waiting for Almalence's Better Camera to support camera api2 on the LG G4, so we can test its SUPER mode on our phone, similar to Google Camera's HDR+. I wonder how it would compare to LG's own Night mode.
According to the developper, it's planned and in alpha stage.
Did you guys find any app that can get to 30" shutter speed? It seems like I can only get that with the stock app.
Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk
hi there, updates on this? i think proshot now is optimized to lg g4. anyone confirm?
How about now? Still no updates?

Camera Modes - what does HQ actually do ?

As they title said I tied to find out but am at a loss in trying to find out exactly what is happening when we use the HQ mode in the camera app.
In night scenes it seems to produce a better photo but the shutter speed is the same. One plus have not really said what they have changed since the HD to HQ update so wondered if anyone could let me know ? Is it an extra stop in exposure maybe ?
Just watch this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=md3Ow6AEwLU
(HD recently got renamed to HQ)
Mine still says HQ
Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using XDA-Developers mobile app
jdawgg21 said:
Mine still says HQ
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It used to be hd then they changed it to hq
AcmE85 said:
Just watch this video:
(HD recently got renamed to HQ)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the video but it didn't really answer my question as it was only a comparison.
That video just compared the 2 options of HD (which has slightly changed since they renamed it to HQ) and HDR. It does not explain what kind of post processing happens apart from staying it used a de noise filter. I wonder what "exactly" is happening with exposure, contrast, saturation etc when you use this HQ mode ?
If anyone knows that would be really helpful.
Crap. I read it wrong. I thought it said HQ recently got changed to HD. And does anyone elses HQ lag like crazy?
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jdawgg21 said:
Crap. I read it wrong. I thought it said HQ recently got changed to HD. And does anyone elses HQ lag like crazy?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not suffering any lag on mine however I am not rooted and complete stock ? How about you ?
ipmanwck said:
Not suffering any lag on mine however I am not rooted and complete stock ? How about you ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine is rooted and running the Elemental Kernel. So I guess that's probably it.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using XDA-Developers mobile app
@jdawgg21 Nope, that's not it.
When using HQ in lowlight, it automatically reduces shutter-speed even more compared to the already lower speed in auto-mode.
Lower shutter-speed = lower framerate
1/30s = 30fps
1/10 (mostly when using HQ) = 10 fps
When others say they don't see the lag, it must only mean they did not test this in the same lighting conditions as you did.
It "lags" here too and so does it on every device which will use 1/10 or even lower shutter speed which shows you a real-time preview of what the image will approximately look like when taking the shot.
AcmE85 said:
@jdawgg21 Nope, that's not it.
When using HQ in lowlight, it automatically reduces shutter-speed even more compared to the already lower speed in auto-mode.
Lower shutter-speed = lower framerate
1/30s = 30fps
1/10 (mostly when using HQ) = 10 fps
When others say they don't see the lag, it must only mean they did not test this in the same lighting conditions as you did.
It "lags" here too and so does it on every device which will use 1/10 or even lower shutter speed which shows you a real-time preview of what the image will approximately look like when taking the shot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Finally a sensible answer. Thanks man. I had been asking around and Juan Bagnel said it's probably doing something like a dslr de noise function so what you said makes sense I have only used it indoors with artificial light so probably had no lag but so is what is displayed on the screen if it is leggy is representative of the shutter speed ?
I have heard from a Carl Pei interview that the camera is the reason for the phone having 6gb of ram because it snaps 4 photos at the same time we snap one photo. The phone then automatically chooses the best one photo of those four photos. I reckon that is also a probable answer due to the lag you are experiencing.
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markusviktorius said:
I have heard from a Carl Pei interview that the camera is the reason for the phone having 6gb of ram because it snaps 4 photos at the same time we snap one photo. The phone then automatically chooses the best one photo of those four photos. I reckon that is also a probable answer due to the lag you are experiencing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, this is not the answer for the "lag". Why doesn't it lag in good lighting then?
I already gave the correct explanation for this.
As an example: I don't know if you have experience with the OnePlus One. It also started lagging much heavier in lowlightconditions due to the low shutter-speed.
Eventually, Sultan released his modded camera hal which forced the camera to not go below 1/30s on the shutter-speed.
The result was a perfectly fluid viewfinder regardless of the lighting conditions.
I am only talking about the fluidity of the viewfinder here. (Shutter-speed and video-framerate is a whole different story not to be mixed-up here...)
I've seen this interview too,
but I don't agree with him that it takes the best of these 4, instead I think that it somehow combines them into one.
This often results in more blurry pictures, even in good lighting!
Check this video I did on this issue:
http://www108.zippyshare.com/v/KidtanPE/file.html
As you can already see in the video, all images were taken without HQ or HDR. You can clearly see this when taking a picture and quickly swiping to the gallery.
For an instant, you will see the unprocessed picture which quickly changes as processing is being applied! Sometimes to the worse though :/
This gets more pronounced the more the ISO level goes up on a shot.
I was holding my phone as steady as possible and you can see that the shots which are displayed first look sharp before postprocessing.
So how can this be explained when, as Carl says, "the camera takes the best out of 4 shots"?!?
I first thought that in HQ mode, the camera is doing Dynamic Denoise
Grainy pictures are a thing of the past with Dynamic De-noise, which takes several photos and compares them to reduce noise and improve clarity.
Click to expand...
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Source
However GSMA review says that the Denoise function gets activated automatically when there is minimum handshake and is not dependent on modes.
A few other things I have noticed.
1) On 3.1.x the noise suppression was very aggressive, almost like a water paint effect. On 3.2.x, the photos are more natural. Still less noise that normal mode.
2) The minimum shutter speed in HQ mode is 1/10 while without HQ it is 1/17
3) RAW is disabled in HDR as well as HQ modes. This makes me think that the HQ (like HDR) is using multiple snaps to filter noise that is Dynamic denoise. If you quickly switch image preview after clicking a pic, you can see the transition from normal to HQ happening. This is definitely not normal noise reduction.
ungeeked said:
This makes me think that the HQ (like HDR) is using multiple snaps to filter noise that is Dynamic denoise. If you quickly switch image preview after clicking a pic, you can see the transition from normal to HQ happening. This is definitely not normal noise reduction.
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This is exactly what I said in my post right above yours and it even happens when HQ and HDR are disabled.
Check the linked video. I bet this is what you mean.
I hate this behavior, often faces are smoothed out because of this, even in perfect lighting conditions.
Hi, it seems the HQ mode does not generate RAW file, someone He checked?
manu.mr64 said:
Hi, it seems the HQ mode does not generate RAW file, someone He checked?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A raw file is a photographic negative without any processing applied to it.
So even when the app would generate a raw file in HQ mode,
it would not look any different than the raw file created with HQ disabled.
My best bet is that the app is saving its resources for the HQ postprcessing,
thus completely skipping the raw part intentionally.
AcmE85 said:
A raw file is a photographic negative without any processing applied to it.
So even when the app would generate a raw file in HQ mode,
it would not look any different than the raw file created with HQ disabled.
My best bet is that the app is saving its resources for the HQ postprcessing,
thus completely skipping the raw part intentionally.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK understand, thank you very much

Alternative/Best Camera app for op3?

Are Camera apps other than stock that offer same or better quality/focus for crisper images? Just wondering.
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A camera with a much better auto focus is what I am looking for also
Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk
What's the problem with your AF?
Mine works better than on any other phone I've had..
ptoner said:
A camera with a much better auto focus is what I am looking for also
Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Agree, is there one? I saw someone who used Open Camera for "pro" Pictures but i havent tested it out yet.
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Apart from specific features and camera2api compatibility,
I did not find a single app yet which can compete with the stock camera app
in terms of general processing quality.
Sure, sometimes the stock app tends to overprocess images, but I guess they can further tweak this with future updates.
( check this video on this matter: http://www108.zippyshare.com/v/KidtanPE/file.html )
I often noticed that faces tend to be overly processed and thus result smoothed-out. This without using HQ or HDR which is bad!
Judging by this issue, it might be better to enable raw or use another app in specific situations.
In terms of white balance abd focus accuracy, they are all more or less the same.
AcmE85 said:
Sure, sometimes the stock app tends to overprocess images, but I guess they can further tweak this with future updates.
( check this video on this matter: http://www108.zippyshare.com/v/KidtanPE/file.html )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That link is virus as ****.
General balances can be edited but Focus cant. Would be great with an app that locks on a Little better when tapping the screen for Focus.
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markusviktorius said:
That link is virus as ****.
...
Would be great with an app that locks on a Little better when tapping the screen for Focus.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for any inconvenience produced by this link. I am using an adblocker on my OP3 and my PC so I don't have any issues with zippyshare.
Regarding focus, when using the stock camera app you can lock focus by long pressing on a subject.
Personally I don't have focus issues. My only issue is the processing you can see in my video.
It might actually be the reason why some think that pictures are not correctly focused.
They appear sharp at first, but get blurry after processing has been applied.
I can upload somewhere else if you want. Just tell me a hoster.
AcmE85 said:
Sorry for any inconvenience produced by this link. I am using an adblocker on my OP3 and my PC so I don't have any issues with zippyshare.
Regarding focus, when using the stock camera app you can lock focus by long pressing on a subject.
Personally I don't have focus issues. My only issue is the processing you can see in my video.
It might actually be the reason why some think that pictures are not correctly focused.
They appear sharp at first, but get blurry after processing has been applied.
I can upload somewhere else if you want. Just tell me a hoster.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Alright, didnt think you did that on purpose. How about uploading to Youtube? Or any other Place, does not really matter. Oh, i honestly did not know.
I just know that i am too lazy for using the manual tweaks to get perfection?
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markusviktorius said:
How about uploading to Youtube? Or any other Place, does not really matter. Oh, i honestly did not know.
I just know that i am too lazy for using the manual tweaks to get perfection��
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There you go
This is a serious issue OnePlus needs to address and probably the reason many think they have focus issues.
AcmE85 said:
There you go
This is a serious issue OnePlus needs to address and probably the reason many think they have focus issues.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! Mine does that too but it flickers 3 Times instead of your 1 time.
Yours get blurry the first time and so does mine, but mine moves back and forth one more time before settling with a pic that is as Good or almost as Good as the first pic shown.
Edit: actually now when i look at it it doesnt flicker in Good lighting, just in semi-poor to poor lighting for some reason..
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Yes, it differs with the lighting. It may sound strange but I was actually happier with the OPO in some situations
because it offered more consistency compared to the OP3 (in daylight).
Off course, the overall quality is much better on the OP3, especially in lowlight, but sometimes you won't know what the postprocessing will actually do with the final image,
mostly with slightly moving subjects (I am not talking about motion blur due to slow shutter-speed!).
I already did some pictures from people which appeared great at first inside the gallery, but then got destroyed by postprocessing!
AcmE85 said:
Yes, it differs with the lighting. It may sound strange but I was actually happier with the OPO in some situations
because it offered more consistency compared to the OP3 (in daylight).
Off course, the overall quality is much better on the OP3, especially in lowlight, but sometimes you won't know what the postprocessing will actually do with the final image,
mostly with slightly moving subjects (I am not talking about motion blur due to slow shutter-speed!).
I already did some pictures from people which appeared great at first inside the gallery, but then got destroyed by postprocessing!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You have obviously tested other apps such as Open camera and confirmed that the problem stays the same regardless of the app used?
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markusviktorius said:
You have obviously tested other apps such as Open camera and confirmed that the problem stays the same regardless of the app used?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, the OOS Camera App is the only app with this issue because it uses proprietary postprocessing to filter out noise, which is not available for other camera apps.
Other apps use the same "basic" postprocessing which is nearly identical in good lighting, or much worse in bad lighting compared to the OOS Camera.
Google Camera https://abload.de/img/img_20160723_001912tkqmo.jpg
Stock Camera https://abload.de/img/img_20160723_001920t9q4y.jpg
Google Camera https://abload.de/img/img_20160723_002156l7rpb.jpg
Stock Camera https://abload.de/img/img_20160723_002205h1q8y.jpg
In lowlight, no apps beats the OOS camera.
In daylight and depending on the subject you will often get more details with third-party apps, but more noise.
But I need to do more testing, especially when taking pictures of people to really see the differences.
In terms of focusing I did not see a difference. I might test Open Camera later.
For flawless quality, just enable DNG RAW file save and process images yourself. DNG files offer vastly superior dynamic range because the 31 MB files contain all red, green and blue subpixel data, unprocessed.
For wider range of manual controls, I recommend AZ Camera, it has full manual controls for video as well. I also like A Better Camera, I use it's HDR mode which has far superior (albeit grainy) multi-shot processing. Manual Camera is always an option, I just prefer AZ Camera because of video settings and I like AZ Screen recorder.
At the end of the day, stock app image quality is not that bad, though HDR is more denoised since oxygen OS 3.2.2.
It's clear that you can get the most out of a raw file, especially when using additional denoising algorithms on a PC.
This doesn't mean that this is a solution for everyone and we can't discuss this any further.
Some people just want to take their devices and snap the best possible photos without too much of an effort.
I took my fair share of raw photos, but often just don't want to.
In comparison with the OPO for example, the gap between the processed jpeg and the developed dng is not too far away on the OP3.
The OP3's processing still has much room for improvement in auto-mode though, as you can see in my YouTube video.
After some testing I can say that the perfect app highly depends on the lighting conditions.
... I will add more to this post later.
AcmE85 said:
Sorry for any inconvenience produced by this link. I am using an adblocker on my OP3 and my PC so I don't have any issues with zippyshare.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What Ad-Blocker are you using? I have ADP on Chrome but I still got a new window pop-up from that link (AV blocked link). And ADP on my OP3 frickin blocks all internet traffic sometimes, welp most of the times. So on OP3 i only have Ad-Away .. but it's pretty useless.
Adaway on OP3 and uBlock Origin on my PC running Chrome Beta 52.
ABP is slowing down Chrome compared to uBlock.
https://github.com/gorhill/uBlock/wiki/uBlock-vs.-ABP:-efficiency-compared
/off-topic
Camera comparison
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/w3q0it8lgu6hsvl/AABAuFOsk6MKGs7Nn6uMpFXOa?dl=0
For best quality, download the whole package and watch on your PC.
Keep in mind that the Windows 10 standard photos app is a blurry mess and they still did not fix this issue!!!!
http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/...fea-889b-48e4-8368-1a2d2922dd0c?page=1&auth=1
Use the old picture viewer for example
OxygenOS Camera vs. Google Camera vs. Open Camera (camera2api enabled)
Running on OxygenOS 3.2.2
All pictures were taken handheld on auto-mode, no HQ or HDR or any additional modes enabled.
All with autofocus. All pictures were the first and only shots I did in this situations. I did not have to correct focal points or anything, just aim, snap & done.
What I can say so far is that in daylight (Photos 1, 2 and 5) there is almost no difference when comparing them on the OP3 screen.
Only noticeably difference are plain colored objects. There is still some minimal noise left with Open Camera and Google Camera.
The OOS Camera filters most of it without losing any details.
I have included one photo taken with Open Camera with camera2api disabled and it looks like there is no denoise filter enabled at all.
The exception to the rule is the photo showing Yoda (Photo 3).
At first glance there is no difference. When comparing at 100% crop you can see that the OOS Camera loses some slight details due to postprocessing.
On photo 4 I tried to darken the room. There is one photo which shows the proper lighting in that scene, by manually decreasing the exposure with OOS camera.
The improved postprocessing by the OOS Camera clearly wins here hands down. What can be observed is that all apps increase the exposure.
Weirdly, all have the same shutter-speed (1/17s), but although having the by far least amount of noise, the OOS camera uses a 6400 ISO, the other two a 3200 ISO!
I am pretty sure there is something wrong with exif data on the OOS Camera.
Photo 6 shows the Dark Tower^^
OOS Camera wins again. Once again 6400 vs 3200 ISO.
Photo 7 shows the same results as the first daylight shots.
Photo 8 was taken with artificial lighting. The results are equal to photo 4.
Basically the pictures and processing are identical on the Google Camera and Open Camera.
I had more apps installed, but earlier shots were showing the same results, so I did not include them into this comparison.
The OOS Camera basically wins every time in lowlight.
Daylight pictures are hard to judge as it tends to make them quite clean with its denoising (see Yoda!)
Google and Open Camera show a slightly more noise, but one could argue that they are preserving more detail.
As I already mentioned earlier, the OOS Camera sometimes goes way too far when there is slight movement involved in the scene:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hbn9Lj6F6EM
that includes peoples faces in perfect lighting. I will continue shooting with Google Camera in these occasions to compare
the behaviour to the OOS Camera.
In terms of focus speed and accuracy, all apps performed the same.
I was using CM13 for a day, the day before it got official nightlies, and can say that camera quality
is identical to what you get with Google Camera on Oxygen OS.
Unfortunately this means that when you are going to do lowlight shots, you will get worse results.
I really hope we will get a fully working OOS camera port in the future.
Until then I am forced to stay on OxygenOS.
edit: Before I get any of these posts to just use manual mode or raw, or... this is not the goal of this comparison ok
AcmE85 said:
Yes, it differs with the lighting. It may sound strange but I was actually happier with the OPO in some situations
because it offered more consistency compared to the OP3 (in daylight).
Off course, the overall quality is much better on the OP3, especially in lowlight, but sometimes you won't know what the postprocessing will actually do with the final image,
mostly with slightly moving subjects (I am not talking about motion blur due to slow shutter-speed!).
I already did some pictures from people which appeared great at first inside the gallery, but then got destroyed by postprocessing!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This solved my issue:
https://forums.oneplus.net/threads/...-post-processing.470510/page-14#post-16614706
camera FV-5
Google camera with hdr

Question for the photography experts / buffs. i

The one pet peeve I had with the S7 camera (I had both the S7E and the S7 earlier this year) was that the plane of focus was so narrow that large parts of the photo would be out of focus or blurry (subject and where you tapped to focused would be spot on, but rest of image would often be hazy I AM NOT TALKING ABOUT THE BOKEH EFFECT PRODUCED BY SHALLOW DEPTH OF FIELD!). I recently got the Note 7 and it too seemed to suffer from the same problem. All this is shooting in Auto mode.
However, taking the same exact shot in Pro mode (with ISO, Shutter, WB and Focus still set to Auto,) the photos come out better! It's weird, everything set to auto in pro mode should be same as Auto mode, but its not. I think it's because Pro mode gives you the option to set Focus to "Multi AF" instead of "Center AF" as well as the option to do matrix metering.
Now my question is whether there is a way to set auto focus to Multi, and metering to Matrix in the Auto mode. Doesn't seem to be any menu options.
Most likely the Aperture. When you focus on an object with the Apeture wide open (provided the aperture is big enough) it will blue the objects outside of the focus point. The phone has an apeture of 1.7 which is pretty good.
doc_loco said:
Most likely the Aperture. When you focus on an object with the Apeture wide open (provided the aperture is big enough) it will blue the objects outside of the focus point. The phone has an apeture of 1.7 which is pretty good.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are missing the point. I am well aware of depth of field and aperture, and what the 1.7 does. I am talking about multi AF versus spot AF and metering.
xxaarraa said:
You are missing the point. I am well aware of depth of field and aperture, and what the 1.7 does. I am talking about multi AF versus spot AF and metering.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In Auto mode it seems to prefer opening up the aperture all the way for that subtle bokeh effect. It seems there is no way to override the aperture behavior of Auto (which is more aggressive than the 'auto' of pro).
kaylorRN said:
In Auto mode it seems to prefer opening up the aperture all the way for that subtle bokeh effect. It seems there is no way to override the aperture behavior of Auto (which is more aggressive than the 'auto' of pro).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The aperture does not change.
I'm pretty sure what you're experiencing is the depth of field, and having f/1.7 is an unfortunate side effect at times. The only way pro mode would be any different is if Samsung's processing is playing with focus in a less than optimal way. If the exact area you intend to focus on is 100% in focus, I see no reason that pro and auto mode would be any different.
Not being funny or anything but have you made sure there's no plastic film thing over the camera lens? Sometimes can be hard to see that it's on there. Only say that because I've not seen any examples of this happening else where like in note 7 camera review videos etc.
Nitemare3219 said:
The aperture does not change.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes. It does. The quoted 1.7 is maximum size. if it couldn't be effectively made smaller, every picture in moderately bright light would look like the surface of the sun. Go into pro mode, you can manually adjust from a pin point (almost closed) 1/24000 to a huge (wide open) 10.
Nitemare3219 said:
I'm pretty sure what you're experiencing is the depth of field, and having f/1.7 is an unfortunate side effect at times. The only way pro mode would be any different is if Samsung's processing is playing with focus in a less than optimal way. If the exact area you intend to focus on is 100% in focus, I see no reason that pro and auto mode would be any different.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is a dept of field issue and they are (pro and auto) different. In Auto mode, it seems that the aperture is kept overly open and the exposure is shortened (less motion blur, more saturated colors, narrower DOF) on purpose. It looks nice. I've paid good money for SLR lenses with a larger aperture so I could make nice portraits with an out of focus background. But it's not what you always want. In pro mode you can manually adjust the effective aperture (same as f-stop in photo lingo). You can set the aperture to 'auto' in the Pro mode and it seems to be better about focusing a larger area of the photo by using a narrower aperture and a longer exposure and lower "iso" sensitivity. So Auto and Pro with all 'auto' settings appear to behave differently.
I really appreciate you guys taking the time to add to this discussion, particularly kaylorRN. But I fear you are all missing the point entirely. My original question may have been poorly worded I suppose.
I am not talking about focus blur or depth of field. I am very familiar with that concept. What I am talking about is situations when you shoot for an entire image to be in focus, but large parts of the image are still out of focus. Best to show you. Look at these photos shot with my old S7:
Photo 1
Photo 2
Photo 3
Photo 4
There is no real 'subject' in these photos, and they are not macro shots, so depth of field / bokeh / focus blur is not relevant. Those photos are normal, everyday photos where the entire photo is expected to be in focus. But you can see the S7 camera in Auto mode locks onto a very small area and other large areas of the photos are blurry.
Shooting with the Note 7 in Pro mode (with all parameters still left on Auto) seems to minimize this problem. I have a feeling its because pro mode allows you to shoot in "Multi AF" and lets you do matrix metering. Can anyone confirm or deny this hypothesis?
Again, I am not talking about depth of field / aperture.
Does anyone know if shape correction has any negative effect? I was going to use it but unsure of the ups/downs
Sent from my SM-N930V using XDA-Developers mobile app
kaylorRN said:
Yes. It does. The quoted 1.7 is maximum size. if it couldn't be effectively made smaller, every picture in moderately bright light would look like the surface of the sun. Go into pro mode, you can manually adjust from a pin point (almost closed) 1/24000 to a huge (wide open) 10.
.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Umm, that's shutter speed; not aperture. There is no way to control aperture because it is fixed on these phones. The phone compensates for the fixed aperture by reducing the shutter speed.
Look at the EXIF data from any picture taken with the s7 or note7 and they'll all have the same aperture. Pretty much any phone behaves the same way (the aperture may be different, but it'll be fixed).
Sent from my SM-N930W8 using Tapatalk
xxaarraa said:
I really appreciate you guys taking the time to add to this discussion, particularly kaylorRN. But I fear you are all missing the point entirely. My original question may have been poorly worded I suppose.
I am not talking about focus blur or depth of field. I am very familiar with that concept. What I am talking about is situations when you shoot for an entire image to be in focus, but large parts of the image are still out of focus. Best to show you. Look at these photos shot with my old S7:
Photo 1
Photo 2
Photo 3
Photo 4
There is no real 'subject' in these photos, and they are not macro shots, so depth of field / bokeh / focus blur is not relevant. Those photos are normal, everyday photos where the entire photo is expected to be in focus. But you can see the S7 camera in Auto mode locks onto a very small area and other large areas of the photos are blurry.
Shooting with the Note 7 in Pro mode (with all parameters still left on Auto) seems to minimize this problem. I have a feeling its because pro mode allows you to shoot in "Multi AF" and lets you do matrix metering. Can anyone confirm or deny this hypothesis?
Again, I am not talking about depth of field / aperture.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nothing in those photos appears to be in focus. If I had to guess, you were too close when shooting. Do you have other pics of the same things which were take at a greater distance?
mecklaw said:
Nothing in those photos appears to be in focus. If I had to guess, you were too close when shooting. Do you have other pics of the same things which were take at a greater distance?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ha. No, I wouldn't say I was too close. A normal distance away. And it was the same story even when shooting from far away.
Should be sharper. Looks as though the camera lens is faulty or you are causing some kind of shake. How were you holding the N7? The bike shots look as though you were reaching down and then angling the device, a very unsteady posture. Even holding the device too tightly can cause shake.
xxaarraa said:
The one pet peeve I had with the S7 camera (I had both the S7E and the S7 earlier this year) was that the plane of focus was so narrow that large parts of the photo would be out of focus or blurry (subject and where you tapped to focused would be spot on, but rest of image would often be hazy I AM NOT TALKING ABOUT THE BOKEH EFFECT PRODUCED BY SHALLOW DEPTH OF FIELD!). I recently got the Note 7 and it too seemed to suffer from the same problem. All this is shooting in Auto mode.
However, taking the same exact shot in Pro mode (with ISO, Shutter, WB and Focus still set to Auto,) the photos come out better! It's weird, everything set to auto in pro mode should be same as Auto mode, but its not. I think it's because Pro mode gives you the option to set Focus to "Multi AF" instead of "Center AF" as well as the option to do matrix metering.
Now my question is whether there is a way to set auto focus to Multi, and metering to Matrix in the Auto mode. Doesn't seem to be any menu options.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I see your point. The aperture is fixed, inadjustable. However mine seems to be on the contrary. It has a deeper DOF in Auto mode than in Pro mode (Multi AF). I did test many shots and can confirm that. Whatever results, it 's still unsatisfying to me. I 'd like to have a deeper DOF (just like decreasing the Aperture in DSlR)
xxaarraa said:
I really appreciate you guys taking the time to add to this discussion, particularly kaylorRN. But I fear you are all missing the point entirely. My original question may have been poorly worded I suppose.
I am not talking about focus blur or depth of field. I am very familiar with that concept. What I am talking about is situations when you shoot for an entire image to be in focus, but large parts of the image are still out of focus. Best to show you. Look at these photos shot with my old S7:
Photo 1
Photo 2
Photo 3
Photo 4
There is no real 'subject' in these photos, and they are not macro shots, so depth of field / bokeh / focus blur is not relevant. Those photos are normal, everyday photos where the entire photo is expected to be in focus. But you can see the S7 camera in Auto mode locks onto a very small area and other large areas of the photos are blurry.
Shooting with the Note 7 in Pro mode (with all parameters still left on Auto) seems to minimize this problem. I have a feeling its because pro mode allows you to shoot in "Multi AF" and lets you do matrix metering. Can anyone confirm or deny this hypothesis?
Again, I am not talking about depth of field / aperture.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I get what you are saying. I have noticed the same thing on my Note, and previous S7 Edge. I believe you are correct when you say that Auto Mode uses center focus, and Pro Mode uses multi-point. I normally use Pro Mode for just that reason.

SWAP my OnePlus 3 for HTC 10?

hi, i do not know if you came to this dilemma before but i have Oneplus 3 and a friend offered to swap phones... i was looking for a better camera... Oneplus 3 has a "thing" when shooting at moving objects and if you try to take a photo of your baby its impossible... almost every picture is blury.... how is the HTC 10 camera when you shoot moving objects? i am looking forward for your replies!!! thanks!!
every camera will blury when you take a moving objects unless you speed up the shutter speed, so it just depends on if you know how to use the camera with shutter priority/full manual.
DummyPLUG said:
every camera will blury when you take a moving objects unless you speed up the shutter speed, so it just depends on if you know how to use the camera with shutter priority/full manual.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Correct.
Try to shop Manual mode on Oneplus3, set shutter speed minimum 1/60 minimum (if indoor), depends the baby moving,
try to shot outdoor, you can set 1/500+, shot flash to baby eyes it NOT allowed (i forgot 3/5 years old is allowed, just search on google)
try to learn about Exposure in photography (iso, aperture, shutter speed) this will useful in life of photography.
i have oneplus3 for testing, is a great device. so swap to HTC10 will not resolve this issue, if you still using Auto. :fingers-crossed:
thank you very much guys!! it might be a software issue of the app... when in auto mode it selects wrong iso/exposure??? before OP3 i had a galaxy S6 and i used it always in auto mode with fine results... i will definetely try your advise!!
That's because Samsung camera app will detect the scene, if it found something moving fast then it will switch to "sport" mode(something like that, forget the actual name). For HTC 10 I dunno will it have similar function in auto mode, but the 10 official camera app really lack of function

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