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Hi all,
Just wondering anybody could recommend a "AA Battery Powered" External USB power supply for UNI?
I seen some people use a mint box and 4 AA batteries to make a USB power supply, but I figured I might just buy a existing product.
Or does anyone has better solutions for power supply when you are away from computer or a A/C wall?
Thanks!!!
I just buyed this one and works great!
http://cgi.ebay.com/BATTERY-WALL-CH...s=65:15|66:2|39:1|240:1318|301:0|293:1|294:50
You can have 2 normal battteries, one on charge
Hey Orb,
I have one of those and I centainly like the colorful flashing when it charges
However, I think u misunderstood what I meant, I was look for a changer that takes AA batteries, then convert the AA battery power into USB current to charge the phone.
something like this: http://www.boxwave.com/products/batteryadapter/
But again thanks for reply
oops, my mistake
Hope you found what you are looking for!
zer037 said:
Hey Orb,
I have one of those and I centainly like the colorful flashing when it charges
However, I think u misunderstood what I meant, I was look for a changer that takes AA batteries, then convert the AA battery power into USB current to charge the phone.
something like this: http://www.boxwave.com/products/batteryadapter/
But again thanks for reply
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What about this one?
http://www.ladyada.net/make/mintyboost/
I seen this Mint Box project, it's DIY, you only buy the parts....not sure about, I'm more leaning towards something a little more pro made i guess. plus the price is not a huge gap
Yeah but it looks fun
post double submitted
I've got an energiser one I bought for a few quid. Takes 2 AA batteries and then has an adaptor that plugs in to convert to mini-usb.
Unfortunately shop brought, but I certainly wouldn't spend mega bucks on something similar!
Amazon has the micro HDMI cable for 5.99 with 5.00 shipping
link please?
I think he means one of these. But I would rather get a tiny little HDMI>microHDMI adapter, similar to this one I have for my camcorder, so that I could just unplug my xbox's (or Zune HD dock) cable and throw the adapter on whenever I want to hook it up. Unfortunately my TV only has 2 HDMI ports so I'm stuck with either that or plopping down like $25 for a dumb and annoying HDMI hub. I'll probably buy the cable anyways, throw it in my car or something, have a portable movie hub for when friends want to see a movie, I'll just get the cable and hook it up to their tv's. But most of my friends TV's don't even have HDMI lol
Samzebian said:
I think he means one of these. But I would rather get a tiny little HDMI>microHDMI adapter, similar to this one I have for my camcorder, so that I could just unplug my xbox's (or Zune HD dock) cable and throw the adapter on whenever I want to hook it up. Unfortunately my TV only has 2 HDMI ports so I'm stuck with either that or plopping down like $25 for a dumb and annoying HDMI hub. I'll probably buy the cable anyways, throw it in my car or something, have a portable movie hub for when friends want to see a movie, I'll just get the cable and hook it up to their tv's. But most of my friends TV's don't even have HDMI lol
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**** IF IT DOESNT SAY "TYPE D" IT WONT WORK *****
Those links are "mini" connectors, not to be confused with "micro"
O I see so there aren't any on amazon that I haven't found
Aren't all those type C? I thought the Evo 4G used a Type D connector.
yes, as mentioned above, those are Type C, or Mini-HDMI.
Evo needs Type D, or Micro-HDMI.
If you look around, you can find Type D for around $8~, I know because I ordered one already.
I believe this is what you will want:
hdmi.org/manufacturer/hdmi_1_4/micro_connector.aspx
apexi350z said:
yes, as mentioned above, those are Type C, or Mini-HDMI.
Evo needs Type D, or Micro-HDMI.
If you look around, you can find Type D for around $8~, I know because I ordered one already.
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Would you mind telling us where you ordered from so I can order 2 today?
Sure. Aarow Electronics
1. http://www.arrow.com/
2. Look for Search and buy components, enter this number: 687860003
3. Quantity availability is 315 at this time, $8.14 each.
4. Order away!
Here's the Molex data sheet: http://octopart.com/687860003-molex-11863162
Btw, they have very fast responsive when I placed my order, got tracking number within a few hours!
apexi350z said:
Sure. Aarow Electronics
1. http://www.arrow.com/
2. Look for Search and buy components, enter this number: 687860003
3. Quantity availability is 315 at this time, $8.14 each.
4. Order away!
Here's the Molex data sheet: http://octopart.com/687860003-molex-11863162
Btw, they have very fast responsive when I placed my order, got tracking number within a few hours!
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Ordered! Shipping is expensive though and what is a Energy Surcharge. Anyway it's done.
dealextreme dot com/details.dx/sku.37396
at the above link the cost is $12.20 after shipping. Good quality cable also. Obviously remove the spaces and change the "dot" to "." from the link as I cant yet post url's
I paid $16 in total for mines. I ended up ordering one because I will just share it with my GF and it'll stay at home anyway. I have to buy a mounting dock for the car and a good car charger.
coojoe1000 said:
dealextreme dot com/details.dx/sku.37396
at the above link the cost is $12.20 after shipping. Good quality cable also. Obviously remove the spaces and change the "dot" to "." from the link as I cant yet post url's
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seen that site, but not sure if it's shipped from US. Got a feeling it's form Hong Kong or something..
Typically ships in 4 to 7 days* (7 to 10 during new year season) Worldwide Free Shipping on Everything Worldwide Free Shipping
i think i will wait till monoprice gets this cable in i can't bring my self to pay no more than 10 bucks for a cable that site has spoiled me rotten
I love monoprice but I plan to load my Evo with movies and shows so I had to jump on it. I'm going to put all the seasons of Family Guy on it.
If anyone finds something like this post it here or PM me, I'm not wasting money on a cable I'll have to reach the back of my TV every time to plug in. Nor will I spend a lot for an HDMI hub. I might buy one cable to throw in my car for on the go but thats about it.
HDMI Type D male to Type A Female
Samzebian said:
If anyone finds something like this post it here or PM me, I'm not wasting money on a cable I'll have to reach the back of my TV every time to plug in. Nor will I spend a lot for an HDMI hub. I might buy one cable to throw in my car for on the go but thats about it.
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I found this one... me likes it
UPDATE: WRONG male to male... doh!!!
Samzebian said:
If anyone finds something like this post it here or PM me, I'm not wasting money on a cable I'll have to reach the back of my TV every time to plug in. Nor will I spend a lot for an HDMI hub. I might buy one cable to throw in my car for on the go but thats about it.
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the one you posted a link to does the exact opposite of what you need...
dmc971989 said:
the one you posted a link to does the exact opposite of what you need...
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No it does what I need, I just unhook my hdmi cable from my xbox or zune hd dock and put the adaptor in, and the other end of the adaptor in my phone. It's that simple.
I bought one of these: HERE
It doesn't work, so I'm wondering if any one has experience with this cable, it says it's an OTG but I get no power from it.
Does anyone have any ideas?
I tried to plug in several things like my PS3 controller and a HDD but nothing.
I'm wondering if the pin that is supposed to be shorted to ground is on the mini end and not the micro end like we want it to be.
Otherwise I wonder if I I can modify it work rather than send it back?
Do you have the 3.1 update?
jss42 said:
Do you have the 3.1 update?
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No ... but that's not relevent.
alias_neo said:
No ... but that's not relevent.
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Send me your tablet cause you have no idea how it works. No 3.1 means no USB host driver support for thoese devices. The kernel has no idea what the devices are or for what
Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk
tonu42 said:
Send me your tablet cause you have no idea how it works. No 3.1 means no USB host driver support for thoese devices. The kernel has no idea what the devices are or for what
Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk
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I can't wait for someone to tell you what Tiamat is
Send me your brain, cause you have no idea how that works ...
People should really look into who they are insulting.
Sent from my phone
jss42 said:
Do you have the 3.1 update?
Click to expand...
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tonu42 said:
Send me your tablet cause you have no idea how it works. No 3.1 means no USB host driver support for thoese devices. The kernel has no idea what the devices are or for what
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I lol'd at these two getting owned
But anyway I built my own usingthis and a usb extension. Followed this instructions. So my guess is that the cable you have doesn't have the 5th pin (brown wire) grounded. I butchered a regular micro usb cable just to find out it didn't have the brown wire at all.
Hope this helps!
alias_neo said:
No ... but that's not relevent.
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Just interested (as you were in the UK)
Thanks...
crxtasi said:
I lol'd at these two getting owned
But anyway I built my own usingthis and a usb extension. Followed this instructions. So my guess is that the cable you have doesn't have the 5th pin (brown wire) grounded. I butchered a regular micro usb cable just to find out it didn't have the brown wire at all.
Hope this helps!
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Click to collapse
This is my guess also, but the eBay guy as you can see clearly sells it as an OTG cable. I have been in touch and he says his supplier says it's an OTG but he doesn't have the technical expertise to understand, let alone advise.
I guess the solution is as you say, I went to the workshop, and even tried the local electronics store and it seems you can't buy the micro-usb plug as an individual component so butchering other stuff seems to be the solution.
As for the tutorial, thanks, but I shouldn't need it, otherwise I should probably send back the certificate for my degree in Electronic Engineering that's on my wall, cause I really wouldn't have earned it
alias_neo said:
As for the tutorial, thanks, but I shouldn't need it, otherwise I should probably send back the certificate for my degree in Electronic Engineering that's on my wall, cause I really wouldn't have earned it
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No biggie just showing my finding just incase other people start questioning where and what I did I was actually looking for something like that micro to mini one less cable to carry cleaner look too.
crxtasi said:
No biggie just showing my finding just incase other people start questioning where and what I did I was actually looking for something like that micro to mini one less cable to carry cleaner look too.
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Yeh, It does look nice and neat, that's why I ordered that one, if I get the time I'll make some myself and just give them out to people I like on XDA. Just need to find the micro plug, mini plug is easy to get hold of.
alias_neo said:
Yeh, It does look nice and neat, that's why I ordered that one, if I get the time I'll make some myself and just give them out to people I like on XDA. Just need to find the micro plug, mini plug is easy to get hold of.
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I know what you mean found one here but there was no casing so I passed next best thing I was thinking of doing was the iGo plug this but still looking for a better price for that tip
Just found this and also just ordered one hope this one works
http://cgi.ebay.com/mini-USB-OTG-Host-cable-Nokia-N8-sub-CA-157-00-/260782710338?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb7dc5e42
crxtasi said:
Just found this and also just ordered one hope this one works
http://cgi.ebay.com/mini-USB-OTG-Host-cable-Nokia-N8-sub-CA-157-00-/260782710338?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb7dc5e42
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Hi , just to let ya know , I ordered 1 of these 3 weeks ago , still waiting ! )-;
crxtasi said:
I know what you mean found one here but there was no casing so I passed next best thing I was thinking of doing was the iGo plug this but still looking for a better price for that tip
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Well, the iGo is no good, because they probably don't have the data lines connected, as it's for charging.
The one in your next post on eBay won't fit if it's an CA-157 substitute, I got hte real Nokia CA-157 and the connector is squared off at the end, picture: HERE
however, I did get a file to the end of my CA-157 and filed it to fit, and YES it works (taking a picture now)..... attached.
The cable you linked to on ebay is just a micro usb to a mini usb, an OTG cable is a Micro male to USB female.
4 bucks free shipping: Ebay
Spend 4 more dollars and get one with a cool blinky LED in it:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Micro-USB-OTG-C...674064?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item3cb733f7d0
alias_neo said:
however, I did get a file to the end of my CA-157 and filed it to fit, and YES it works (taking a picture now)..... attached.
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This ist a very good information and now I have the same cable as you working perfectly for me! In the first place I ordered the cable in the believe it would fit anyways but after receiving it yesterday I had to face the fact that there is an A and B standard of the micro usb plug. Your tip has saved me money, thanks for that!
Riffer said:
This ist a very good information and now I have the same cable as you working perfectly for me! In the first place I ordered the cable in the believe it would fit anyways but after receiving it yesterday I had to face the fact that there is an A and B standard of the micro usb plug. Your tip has saved me money, thanks for that!
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No problem. I have this and the cable from my OP now working too. I opened it up and found the ID pin was not connected so I soldered it to ground and that works now. SO I have a direct cable for my HDD and a female USB (the filed Ca-157) for other stuff.
nexan21 said:
Hi , just to let ya know , I ordered 1 of these 3 weeks ago , still waiting ! )-;
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I guess mail is slow coming from China
Wish I had read this before ordering 2 from the same guy. Could have just bought the adapter from amazon that someone linked earlier for $0.25 a piece....
I recently purchased a lapdock 100 with the intention of using it as a monitor. I bought the female micro hdmi to hdmi adapter and the female to female hdmi adapter. From what I understand after this it should be plug and play, but it's not getting detected by any devices. Any help? Did I overlook a power button or something?
I believe there's some power logic inside the Lapdock that might be getting in the way. I'm not sure what you're trying to hook it up to, but this article on hooking a Raspberry Pi to a Lapdock 100 might help: http://rpidock.blogspot.com/2012/05/raspberry-pi-and-motorola-lapdock.html
crayz9000 said:
I believe there's some power logic inside the Lapdock that might be getting in the way. I'm not sure what you're trying to hook it up to, but this article on hooking a Raspberry Pi to a Lapdock 100 might help: http://rpidock.blogspot.com/2012/05/raspberry-pi-and-motorola-lapdock.html
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Thanks for replying.
I got some more symptoms of my issue. I plugged it into my hdmi port on my desktop (Before I used my tablet and it didn't detect it) and my computer detects it, it's just the lapdock that doesn't want to turn on. However, occasionally I might see a red flash on the led, when this happens and I press the button, the display turns on! Unfortunately it only lasts for about 10 seconds before shutting off again, and from there I have to wait until the led decides to flash red once again to get 10 seconds more of screentime.
I decided to try something else. I got my micro hdmi female to micro hdmi male cable in the mail today. When I plug my phone into the usb port, the laptop automatically turns on. Unfortunately the display turns off still after about 10 seconds. If I close the lapdock and reopen it the screen will come on once again. So now I can actually decide when I can turn it on, but it's useless due to how long it lasts.
Do you think I just happened to get a bad laptop? I ordered it online at AT&T, I'm not sure if they even have an extra to replace for me, and I don't think Motorola does either.
hajalie24 said:
Do you think I just happened to get a bad laptop? I ordered it online at AT&T, I'm not sure if they even have an extra to replace for me, and I don't think Motorola does either.
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The prevailing conclusion seems to be that Motorola has included some authentication logic in the newer Lapdocks to prevent exactly this. The old Atrix Lapdocks seem to work just fine as dumb HDMI displays, though. Rather a **** move from them, seeing as how they discontinued the program and my expensive Lapdock is currently a paperweight.
Try this one. Might answer your question http://www.robpol86.com/index.php/Atrix_Lapdock_Other_Uses
barminio said:
The prevailing conclusion seems to be that Motorola has included some authentication logic in the newer Lapdocks to prevent exactly this. The old Atrix Lapdocks seem to work just fine as dumb HDMI displays, though. Rather a **** move from them, seeing as how they discontinued the program and my expensive Lapdock is currently a paperweight.
Click to expand...
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Seems like you're right. Since I missed my AT&T return window by one day I had to send it to Motorola because I thought there was an issue with it. Well I finally got it back today and it's the same lapdock, apparently nothing was wrong with it. Seems like I wasted $50
I got it working!
Looks like you need the usb part connected too. I had a female micro usb to male usb plugged into my phone from the start of all this but it didn't work, but I decided to spend $2 on a micro usb to usb converter and plugged it into my computer. The trackpad and keyboard works on my computer and the screen doesn't shut off after a couple of seconds!
Here's what I ordered (Mine came with a chunk of the plastic melted and scratched, so I'd recommend avoiding the retailer "likeelectronic Ship FM Hongkong")
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009AWA3VK/ref=pe_385040_30332190_pe_175190_21431760_3p_M3T1_ST1_dp_1
This is what I already had
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400463295894
In case the listing is removed and you're curious, here's a screenshot.
http://i.imgur.com/whZ9UlL.jpg
My Fire TV stick acts up when powered from the TV usb. It works fine from the AC adapter but I'd rather use the USB because it is less clutter. Will something like this solve my issue?:
amazon.com/PortaPow-Fast-Charge-Blackberry-Charging/dp/B00GC4AJOU
(can't post links yet)
bobbintb said:
My Fire TV stick acts up when powered from the TV usb. It works fine from the AC adapter but I'd rather use the USB because it is less clutter. Will something like this solve my issue?:
amazon.com/PortaPow-Fast-Charge-Blackberry-Charging/dp/B00GC4AJOU
(can't post links yet)
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Click to collapse
Wouldn't hurt to try it out. As per specs it says it will charge similar to the rapid charger I believe. Give it a shot its cheap.
bobbintb said:
My Fire TV stick acts up when powered from the TV usb. It works fine from the AC adapter but I'd rather use the USB because it is less clutter. Will something like this solve my issue?:
amazon.com/PortaPow-Fast-Charge-Blackberry-Charging/dp/B00GC4AJOU
(can't post links yet)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am using an old original iphone usb charger and everything works fine
Zenroid said:
I am using an old original iphone usb charger and everything works fine
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OP (Original Poster) is trying to circumvent the use of an external power supply and use the usb service/media port of the television for less wire clutter by the outlet/powerstrip. Due to power requirements of stick and power limitations of most television usb ports, the device he references is quite interesting and I hope someone may give back some postitive feedback on it. I also would like to know on top of meeting the power requirements for the stick, does it block remote control codes from TV's being sent to the stick through hdmi. I would not go with the model that blocks data for that purpose but then again, the blocking of data model my work better for original question.
rp201 said:
OP (Original Poster) is trying to circumvent the use of an external power supply and use the usb service/media port of the television for less wire clutter by the outlet/powerstrip. Due to power requirements of stick and power limitations of most television usb ports, the device he references is quite interesting and I hope someone may give back some postitive feedback on it. I also would like to know on top of meeting the power requirements for the stick, does it block remote control codes from TV's being sent to the stick through hdmi. I would not go with the model that blocks data for that purpose but then again, the blocking of data model my work better for original question.
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Click to collapse
Oh yes missed the whole point I guess I would like to know as well if such device works and I got power warning from fire tv when I go to software update page other than that no such warning
rp201 said:
OP (Original Poster) is trying to circumvent the use of an external power supply and use the usb service/media port of the television for less wire clutter by the outlet/powerstrip. Due to power requirements of stick and power limitations of most television usb ports, the device he references is quite interesting and I hope someone may give back some postitive feedback on it. I also would like to know on top of meeting the power requirements for the stick, does it block remote control codes from TV's being sent to the stick through hdmi. I would not go with the model that blocks data for that purpose but then again, the blocking of data model my work better for original question.
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Click to collapse
Yes, that is correct, I am trying to about using an external power supply. Maybe I will just have to suck it up and be the guinea pig. I am just a little hesitant because I figured I would be able to find more info on it if it does work. I can't be the first person that thought of this. But in theory, it should work. The USB standard is 5 volts with varying amperes, depending on how the devices negotiate it. Well, it's a service port so I imagine it's doesn't do any sort of power negotiation and so it just supplies a low amperage. The only real concern I have is that this seems to be designed for a phone charger and may not really work in this scenario. I think I will have to check my TV USB with a multimeter and see if it is sending enough and just not negotiating. If it is not sending enough amps, I don't think this will help.
As for the CEC feature for HDMI, I don't see how this would interfere with it at all.
I believe the device posted in OPs post does the same thing as this hack seen here: http://blog.seani.am/2011/08/charge-only-microusb-cable/
Therefore you can just create your own or buy a "fast charge" cable somewhere.
If you're going to create your own cable I suggest you read other sites instructions too just to be sure you know what you're doing.
wqwrqrfq said:
I believe the device posted in OPs post does the same thing as this hack seen here: http://blog.seani.am/2011/08/charge-only-microusb-cable/
Therefore you can just create your own or buy a "fast charge" cable somewhere.
If you're going to create your own cable I suggest you read other sites instructions too just to be sure you know what you're doing.
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it would be wise to know how many milliamps the usb port on the tv puts out, because if the tv uses the minimum output for 2.0 then it doesnt matter what cable you use its not going to increase the milliamps to the device. The charger block for the fire tv is 3.3 amps so i would recommend you use an extension cord from the wall to behind the tv and then plug the tv and firetv charger block in so all is hidden behind the tv and the firetv has enough power
rontonomo said:
it would be wise to know how many milliamps the usb port on the tv puts out, because if the tv uses the minimum output for 2.0 then it doesnt matter what cable you use its not going to increase the milliamps to the device. The charger block for the fire tv is 3.3 amps so i would recommend you use an extension cord from the wall to behind the tv and then plug the tv and firetv charger block in so all is hidden behind the tv and the firetv has enough power
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Click to collapse
Yea, I thought of that a earlier. Good point. Now that I think about it that's probably the case, the TV isn't outputting enough in the first place and I don't think I can do anything about that short of taking apart the TV and altering the circuit to output more amps. Those service ports were never really meant to be used to power anything but that will probably change with more of these devices floating around.
bobbintb said:
Yea, I thought of that a earlier. Good point. Now that I think about it that's probably the case, the TV isn't outputting enough in the first place and I don't think I can do anything about that short of taking apart the TV and altering the circuit to output more amps. Those service ports were never really meant to be used to power anything but that will probably change with more of these devices floating around.
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the TV is unlikely to be putting out more than the USB 2.0 standard [email protected] (although there are a few TVs that do. and some that will do less, lol.) - which is not close to enough - when I first was setting up my stick (trying with the TV usb power) it constantly gave messages of not enough power.
like everyone else, I am also very curious about the device you linked in OP. it could work! or, it could do nothing ... or, it could blow out the TV's usb port regulators from current over-draw
I really want to know!
tarvoke said:
like everyone else, I am also very curious about the device you linked in OP. it could work! or, it could do nothing ... or, it could blow out the TV's usb port regulators from current over-draw
I really want to know!
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It is just a dumb passthrough so unless the TV is capable of outputing more amps and just isn't, it probably does nothing in this case. But I'll update if I find out for certain, but I have to pull out my mulitimeter first.
I was thinking the device was using some kind of capacitive circuitry to store voltage to maintain certain voltage levels during short drops. the more I think about it, it probably pertains to more of a thumb drive environment. Never know till you try. I hate to be a doubting thomas but it doesn't look like it's going to work. w=VxI 5watts=5voltsx1amp not sure how you going to turn a 500mA tv usbport into 1000mA. I always thought adding more circuitry adds more impedance which creates voltage drops and lowers total power throughput. if the device itself had it's own power source then... but that would defeat the purpose I keep an open mind though cause I haven't done circuitry in decades.
all the device in the OP does is tell the firetv (or any usb device) that its plugged into a charger and not a usb data device so no power is lost for data transfer. This is the same thing as hacking a usb micro charge cable by faulting the data cables so the device (in this case firetv, but could also be phones or any other usb device) thinks is only a charger plugged in not a data device so it will give all the available power (which in this case would be the max output of the tv usb port) to the charger. so if it was a device with a battery it would charge faster, but it still isnt gonna make extra power out of thin air, meaning that its most likely not goning to have anywhere enough juice to power the firetv correctly. if you want to make that device in the op yourself google how to make a fast charge cable its the same thing
You are literally "playing with fire"....standard USB ports will not supply proper current to run any unintended device or charge circuit, voids your warranty for both products, risks permanent damage up to and including risk of meltdown or fire. Short answer: DON"T DO IT, use the supplied power for it's intended use ONLY for the product it came with, unless you are looking to test your insurance policy and safety. Also anything you plug into a data capable (including HDMI) port essentially cuts the microprocessor data line and inserts an potential unknown, add inappropriate power draw and you have a recipe for disaster. 30 + years experience fixing failed circuits in consumer and industrial products.