I know it's ridiculous for some folks and maybe I do it just for the sake of doing it, but ah well. It's the future so I enjoy these things.
I have my hotspot from my LG V10, did the same with my Nexus 6 until a few weeks ago, and a Nexus 7 with a usb hub w/ 3 x 128GB tiny flash drives in it connected to that network. I do the cast screen function and use PowerAmp and shuffle like 300whatever gigs of music to the Chromecast Audio which is plugged into my Scion xB.
Might move from the Nexus 7 to a Huawei P8max in january with tax returns coming since it has 64gb and I'll put a 200gb card in it and that'll be close enough to the amount of music I'm using now.
I'm more concerned with convenience than quality outside of the fact that I avoid bluetooth audio, this is wifi and full quality. Otherwise I'd fiddle with an external DAC as well. Who knows what the future holds though.
That's actually so stupid that it's cool,have to try this myself also Always interested thinking outside the box, thanks for the idea!
Lähetetty minun D5503 laitteesta Tapatalkilla
ok
unfortunately one big disadvantage is that it still requires internet to initiate the casting connection, especially if you are not covered with network it stops working
thats why for car-usage it seems that bluetooth is far superior (especially if using apt-x)
Id like to see a way to circumvent the need for internet connection though. Any idea?
Update: Ive made an interesting discovery!!
While connected to the Setup-Wifi (when the Test-Tone can be played!) of the Chromecast Audio it is possible to enable Screen Mirroring / Casting via the Chromecast App then you can listen to anything the Phone plays. If this is stable and usable this would be really awesome. I will keep testing
Ridiculous
therourke said:
Ridiculous
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried this? It works quite well actually. Not so ridiculous.
Quote from ktwo
Update: Ive made an interesting discovery!!
While connected to the Setup-Wifi (when the Test-Tone can be played!) of the Chromecast Audio it is possible to enable Screen Mirroring / Casting via the Chromecast App then you can listen to anything the Phone plays. If this is stable and usable this would be really awesome. I will keep testing
END Quote
Nice find. I have been waiting for root or some solution like this before i purchase a CCA. My scenario is - bluetooth handsfree profile to car bluetooth, headset jack to car audio input. This works great for streaming music from tidal. The problem is the 2007 audio input jack sometimes makes loud pops. Yeah i could probably clean the jack, but i want fully wireless!
Last time i checked, Tidal was not supported on CCA.
I am on Metro PCS, who provides UNLIMITED tidal music streaming, so simply hotspotting the phone will not work for me(no tidal app for CCA)(data plan would be consumed).
I think my car has an optical input, and getting this setup working would be awesome- not ridiculous.
So does this quoted workaround work?
And if so, what steps are required every time you get in the car?
Thanks.
Frolob
Razor bumps
I got one for Xmas and it's been sitting around in a box looking for a purpose. That internet connection bs needs to go. If you want superimpose ads or whatever but let it function offline. For the same price I got a Hootoo portable htm05 router/nas/ battery and it works offline with dlna and bubble upnp. Too bad because the chromecast is smaller and more efficient. If anyone finds a practical workaround hit us up.
I am using Chromecast audio in both of my cars for these reasons:
Lack of bluetooth audio in car.
Steeamed media is far superior from an audio quality perspective.
The DAC in the Chromecast is exceptional.
VW Monsoon and Audi B&O both sound amazing.
I find the chromecast volume level should be at around 50% else distortion may occur on some of the high volume sections.
Post your vote for official support on mobile hotspots here:
https://productforums.google.com/fo...oter#!msg/chromecast/lpHteomXkhs/UJXgaDzbBAAJ
power issue in car
I plugged the chromcast audio in my car usb charger and I overburned 2 out of 2 chromecast devices.. anyone had similar issue? is there an Ampere limit I should stick to?
Thanks
Matteo
madmat71 said:
I plugged the chromcast audio in my car usb charger and I overburned 2 out of 2 chromecast devices.. anyone had similar issue? is there an Ampere limit I should stick to?
Thanks
Matteo
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can't "overburn" them. They probably went out for different reasons, like .. heat. Look at the factory charger the chromecast comes with and use that as your reference. I don't see why a regular 1amp charger would be an issue. The Chromecast will only pull as much as it needs, you can't feed it more.
Well car temperature was 18 celsius. Amp could have been 2.4 ...
Like the previous guy said, CCA will only pull as much power as it needs. Perhaps your power adapter is low quality and didn't supply enough power to the CCA which will cause failure.
madmat71 said:
I plugged the chromcast audio in my car usb charger and I overburned 2 out of 2 chromecast devices.. anyone had similar issue? is there an Ampere limit I should stick to?
Thanks
Matteo
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is the output voltage for your 12V adapter? The Chromecast takes 5V.
So I've made progress, and enjoyed using my chromecast audio (CCA) both to and from work today.
First, you need to decide whether you will only be playing local content on your phone, or will you want to play audio from the Internet via your phone. I'll only talk about Option 2 here for now.
To do this, you either need to have a mobile hotspot working on your phone, or you need to use a MIFI device in your car. I am using the mobile hotspot on my android phone.
In brief, you will set up the CCA to connect to the phone's hotspot when you turn on your car. Then, you will cast from your phone in guest mode (since your phone will turn off wifi when the hotspot comes on, you can't make the traditional wifi connection from your phone to the CCA via a wireless router). Once setup, your phone will notice that it is "close" to the CCA, and you can then cast to nearby CCA in guest mode.
The tricky piece is doing the initial setup. For now, you need to initialize your CCA in a different environment than your car. Choose an SSID and password that you will use in normal operation in your car. Find a wireless router that you can manage and change its SSID and password to your chosen values. (This router is only used in setup; I'll call it the "temp wifi router".) Connect your primary phone to this temp wifi router (scan for wifi, choose the appropriate SSID, and enter the right password).
Power up the chromecast nearby (in range of your temp wifi router) Now go to the Chromecast Home app. If all is running as it should, it should see the CCA and offer to set it up. Set up as you normally would, instructing the CCA to use your chosen SSID and password of the temp wifi router. Setup Guest mode on the CCA and remember the 4 digit pin. Turn off your primary phone's wifi, connecting to the Internet via the cellular network. Confirm operation by casting audio from your primary phone in guest mode to your CCA.
Now turn off the temp wifi router (or change its SSID). Turn on the mobile hotspot on your phone. Change the SSID and password of your mobile hotspot to your chosen values. Reboot the CCA and your phone. Turn on the mobile hotspot on your phone. In a 10-20 sec, your CCA will reconnect to your phone's mobile hotspot. Now use your phone to send audio to your CCA in guest mode. Done!
Related
UPDATED WITH REVIEW:
In-depth review below, will update in a few days to cover DLNA support and revisit Miracast experience while at home (currently discussing the experience at a university)
The PTV Miracast adapter works as advertised, but isn’t perfect. Miracast functionality works like a charm, but with the same slight delay in most other adapters out there. AirPlay is listed as a feature, but don’t expect it to work. Upon opening the package, I was greeted with a matte black, rubbery dongle that was slightly larger than a USB thumb-drive. Under the cap is the HDMI plug, on the other end are two micro USB ports -- one for power and one to connect a storage drive. On one side of the USB end is a tiny button that doesn’t clearly indicate it’s purpose, but is meant to switch between Miracast connectivity and AirFun mode (see below).
Using this adapter isn’t as intuitive as I would like it to be, but it does work. When you initially plug the device into the HDMI port of the TV and USB power, you’re greeted with the AirFun screen, which is green and black. This screen displays the dongle’s IP address, a url containing the IP address and ending with “/remote,” and what network it’s connecting to. When no network is available, it turns itself into it’s own wireless network to allow you to connect. Visiting http://ipaddress/remote takes you to a web-based remote for the dongle to set it up and control the DLNA features of the device. When connecting to this address from an Android device, it prompts you to download the app for this same control. The app is called AirFun and CORRECTION: is in the Play Store - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.realtek.airfun.client. The app appears to be stored on the dongle itself also. Don't worry much about this app after you've adjusted the settings to your liking. Use another DLNA app for your media, MirrorOP if you wish to take advantage of that, and wait on AirPlay.
Connecting the dongle to wifi is easy, but the first step isn’t apparent. You must first connect your phone or tablet to the wifi hotspot the dongle creates. At this time, you will not have an internet connection and will only be able to connect to the Miracast dongle. The next step is to go to the url containing the ip address that is displayed on your TV or use the app to connect to the device. In the settings, you can choose the wireless network you want to use and enter the password. Once this is completed, the Miracast adapter will disconnect it’s own hotspot, disconnect your phone or tablet from the device, and connect to the wireless network you chose. At this point, you should connect to the same wireless network in order to pair with the device again.
I must share a mistake I had made in hopes of those reading this can learn from it. Do not, under any circumstances, connect to an open wireless network in which you need to visit a web browser to sign in or click and accept button. The Miracast adapter can’t choose to accept a license or enter login information. I did this at the university I work for and found that I could no longer access the dongle for anything relying on wifi, including accessing the settings. I had attempted to disconnect and reconnect, reset, unplug and plug in again the device. As I had already set it to connect to the wifi that requires authentication in a browser, it automatically connected to it every time. I was forced to bring this in a location in which that wireless network was unaccessible so that I could connect directly to the device’s own hotspot and connect it to another network.
Once the wireless connection has been connected to both the PTV dongle and your phone or tablet, you can begin using MirrorOP, DLNA, or AirPlay. Please note that Miracast is connected using different steps which I will discuss later. No wireless connection is needed for Miracast and if this is the sole purpose of using this device, you can ignore the steps above and continue to the section specifically about Miracast. After connecting to wifi, I tested MirrorOP and found that connecting to this worked without issue. The screen mirrored as any other MirrorOP connection does. MirrorOP is an AirPlay-like connection except that it requires a rooted Android device or jailbroken iOS device to connect. It mirrors the screen like AirPlay to a device on the same wireless network. The MirrorOP app needs to be installed on your device to make the connection. Though screen mirroring works, MirrorOP does not support audio mirroring -- the audio will continue to play through your phone or tablet.
Connecting to AirPlay was very disappointing. I attempted to connect to AirPlay both at the university I work at and at home using an iPad on iOS7. In each attempt to connect, the iPad recognized the Miracast dongle as an AirPlay device. When selecting to connect to it, it appeared to work initially. Choosing a photo to display on the AirPlay device, however, proved nothing worked. The photo would not project to the TV. The same applied for video as well, but I have not yet tested audio. When enabling screen mirroring in the AirPlay settings, I was also disappointed by the results. The notification bar turned blue, the device appeared to be trying to connect for mirroring, then the AirPlay settings reset, turning off the connection to the dongle. No matter how many times I tried, it wouldn’t work. It may be my lack of knowledge with iOS and how to properly connect the devices, it could be an incompatibility with iOS7, or it could just be a falsely advertised feature. I don’t know the answer to this. EDITED: If I am correct in that Visiontech makes this device, their website (in a couple of posts below) indicates AirPlay is a feature still in development and will be added in a future update.
EDITED: DLNA works as expected. I did have some buffering/stuttering, but that was likely due to my new ISP which is a reduction in speed. Any DLNA/UPNP app or device will recognize this dongle and send content to it. Since DLNA plays the content locally, I haven't narrowed down which files are supported. I have not had any issue with mp4, which should be expected. In order to use DLNA, this dongle needs to be in AirFun mode, but you don't need to use the AirFun app to use it. This app just gives basic functionality and allows you to setup the dongle.
The most important feature in which I purchased this for is the Miracast functionality. I tested this in two different environments and found two different user experiences. I tested this at the university I work for and at home (which I am still testing more at home and will update this with more information later). Before you can connect to Miracast, you must press the button on the side of the dongle twice to switch to the wireless HDMI mode. At the university, the experience was such that I don’t feel it would be beneficial for the classroom. Connecting took several attempts before it was successful. Upon a successful connection, most of the time my device’s wireless connection was disconnected and reverted to cellular data. The screen mirroring worked as it should, however with a fraction of a second in latency. Audio transmitted to the TV flawlessly as well. At times, especially during heavy activity, the TV would fall further behind than initial connection and the picture would display large groups of poorly rendered blocks. This was further exaggerated when I reconnected to wifi for some reason. It may be due to the large number of wireless devices on a college campus causing interference that caused these issues, but I don’t know enough about networking to make an educated guess to this. I did notice turning the HTC One’s Power Saver mode off improved the experience, but only slightly.
EDITED: At home, I get mixed results. Most of the time, it works flawlessly via Miracast. There are times that the picture lags behind and when it starts to, it can be tens of seconds behind. It eventually catches up, especially if you stop your activity to allow it to catch up. With that said, I streamed a few movies from Plex to my HTC One which was Miracasting to the PTV dongle. I did not see any moments in any attempt in which the mirroring had fallen out of sync with my phone. I did, however, find a few movies that would not play sound over Miracast. I am not sure if this is due to bandwidth, licensing/authentication/DRM, or something else entirely. I need to investigate the files more in depth to determine if it's the stream. I tried to play a game with this, but I honestly found myself looking at my phone more than the TV to see where I was touching on screen. I didn't notice any delay here either, but I wasn't playing a complex game either. I ought to try this using a game controller and see how it performs this way. I also discovered that Google Play Music and Google Play Movies & TV are blocked over Miracast. They will not play, even locally stored music tracks. Play Movies tells me this feature is not supported, while Play Music will either display "Cannot play track" or disconnect the Miracast connection completely. Upon contacting Google with regard to this, they responded indicating that this is normal behavior and suggested I buy a Chromecast. I shouldn't have to buy another product to use Google services that already work on my device.
Being a Sprint customer and experiencing network issues regularly on their cellular data, I have installed an app that floats network download and upload speeds on my screen so that I can determine if anything isn’t working due to my internet connection. I noticed that while connected through Miracast, my upload speeds were incredibly high. This is what I would expect from a Miracast connection considering 1080p video encoded as h.264 mp4 video and up to 5.1 surround sound audio is being sent from my phone to the dongle over wifi direct. For anyone curious about the network activity, my upload speeds floated between 7-9 Mbps while connected to Miracast. Download speeds remained normal for the activity I was performing.
I also wanted to note that the PTV Miracast adapter gets about as hot as the HTC One can during high activity. It can be uncomfortable to touch. The included manual warns about this and promises that it will not affect performance. I am still concerned of the heat, despite the manual’s acknowledgement of this issue. Hopefully the heat doesn’t affect this device’s lifespan. I hope that this in-depth review has been helpful to all those who have read it. I would recommend this product to others, but I would warn others of the shortcomings this dongle has as well. The $50 I paid for this was a fair price considering the average price for Miracast today. Others at the same or higher price don’t offer MirrorOP or AirPlay -- I’m hoping a firmware update down the road fixes the AirPlay problems.
Tested with:
MirrorOP - Nexus 7 (2012) on Android 4.3
AirPlay - iPad 2 (two different iPads) running iOS7
Miracast - HTC One on Android 4.3 Sense 5
Full HD 1080P WiFi Display Dongle HDMI Wireless PTV Support DLNA / Miracast
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ESUPKE4/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just received this dongle. Haven't had time to play with it yet, but will very very soon. I did manage to test whether or not the HTC One would connect and on 4.3 Sense 5, it connects and detects it. It's not as intuitive as I would hope, but I'll elaborate later. iPad connectivity via AirPlay will be tested soon too.
gk1984 said:
I just received this dongle. Haven't had time to play with it yet, but will very very soon. I did manage to test whether or not the HTC One would connect and on 4.3 Sense 5, it connects and detects it. It's not as intuitive as I would hope, but I'll elaborate later. iPad connectivity via AirPlay will be tested soon too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
please let us know how it works.
thanks
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
Well, I plan on writing an in depth review later and putting I on the Amazon page too. But some initial thoughts:
So far, miracast works great! WiFi turns off while connecting. Not sure if this is normal or not. Performance is also worse with wifi on, in fact it can be very unusable with wifi on. But this was tested at work so far, home wifi might be a different experience.
If you plan to use any of the other features, I don't recommend setting it up on a wifi that needs to be authenticated - as in if you need to open a website, get a splash screen, and either sign in or accept a license agreement. This is not possible to do on this device and it locked me out of the dongle because it was connected to this kind of network and I had no way to change it.
You download the app to control this device directly from the dongle via ip address. You use the app for everything besides miracast - Dlna, configuration, etc.
I'll update op with full, in depth review after I spend some time with it.
Sent from my HTCONE using xda app-developers app
EDIT: testing at home not disconnect of wifi upon connection. iPad on iOS 7 will see the dongle as an airplay device, but can't connect to it for mirroring, not sure what else to do with it. More testing to come.
Another note for everyone before I write my in-depth review... Airplay doesn't work. The iPad will see the dongle as an Airplay device, but won't connect to it. Tried screen mirroring and just picture sharing, neither worked. Could be something to do with iOS 7 or something.
Sent from my HTCONE using xda app-developers app
Updated OP with in-depth review. Need to revisit two sections after I play with it some more. Will update in a few days.
Not having much success at home either. It works for a little bit, then has problems like I experienced at the university. Still planning to update with more info. But I think I found the company that makes this - the vendor has left this information out and the packaging doesn't include this info either. The specs, description, features, and pictures are all identical.
http://www.vissontech.com/products_detail2/&productId=16a67a7b-4b2c-46f6-8a28-c825a361bdd5&comp_stats=comp-FrontProducts_list01-1337323367416.html
In case anyone wants to investigate further.
Wow! this review is very helpful man. thanks for this review. Now I think I want one :cyclops:
gk1984 said:
Not having much success at home either. It works for a little bit, then has problems like I experienced at the university. Still planning to update with more info. But I think I found the company that makes this - the vendor has left this information out and the packaging doesn't include this info either. The specs, description, features, and pictures are all identical.
http://www.vissontech.com/products_...=comp-FrontProducts_list01-1337323367416.html
In case anyone wants to investigate further.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem. Shop around though, I think if it supported 5ghz wifi like miracast is supposed to, this would have been a better experience. I just recently discovered that.
Sent from my HTCONE using xda app-developers app
HI,
2 weeks ago I got this unit http://www.win-star.com/eshop/goods.php?id=159
I choice it because of the integrated LAN, and simplified functionality (no android, no need to play with air mouse).
It prove to need it own mouse to switch between different modes, as there no any button on unit itself(only hidden reset)
During first star the Unit create own wifi network so I connect to it my samsung galaxy s4 active. However I was unable to test miracast mode not connect.
Then I switch to "bridge to wireless" trying to connect WS-AV601D1 to my existing network but unsuccessfully. I switch back manually to "AP only" mode, however since then I can not see any more networks from the device itself nor to access WIFI settings(its gray/unaccessible). I can not see anymore the open WiFi network that the device should make. I reset it several times to default settings but it going to "Bridge to WiFi" mode instead of "AP only". WiFi light not switching on at all, and wifi module is unaccessible. WiFi module fail about 10 min after first start.
Note that the unit support only WEP encryption, and have no settings for connection to not broadcasted /hidden SSID. So practically I could not connect it WiFi to my existing network even if it works(unless broadcast SSID and change to WEP)!!!
Further I could test only airplay(android airfun appk) from my s4 active and notebook, and screen mirroring from my notebook only(having the device connected to my network via LAN cable). Using the software provided.
Most important for me was the 1080p video played from notebook to TV quality. So the quality was bad, looks like xvid 700MB rip(or more like x264, baseline, ultra fast, 1000bit/s encoding). Dont understand me wrong quality was fair for animation movies of my son, despite of HDMI playback of same video you can not see each hear and dimple of actors face). There was some sound distortion too, however i dint paly with sound settings of the unit. Upload speed during playback was 2-3mbit, while normal speed within my network is 6-7mbit. Note that the Unit is LAN connected to my Asus RT-N66U.
I already send my back to China and waiting for refund.
So I could not test miracast! Does it provide better video quality when mirroring 1080p video What unit you could recommend
I purchased the iview Mira Cast dongle and it pretty much works the same. I did notice a slight lag in playing videos and sometimes it falls behind. The dlna feature works really well but with no remote you have to push everything from the One or browsing your dlna server with another app. I use skifta.
******************************
HTC ONE (Stock so far) Just got 2013-04-21
Samsung Captivate Glide
Installed:
CWMR5x_i927_recovery.tar.md5
ICS 4.0.4 LiteRom 0.9.0
LiteKernel
dudejb said:
I purchased the iview Mira Cast dongle and it pretty much works the same. I did notice a slight lag in playing videos and sometimes it falls behind. The dlna feature works really well but with no remote you have to push everything from the One or browsing your dlna server with another app. I use skifta.
******************************
HTC ONE (Stock so far) Just got 2013-04-21
Samsung Captivate Glide
Installed:
CWMR5x_i927_recovery.tar.md5
ICS 4.0.4 LiteRom 0.9.0
LiteKernel
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I brought the ezcast and found playback at 1080p theres a lot of delay at times on gaming and streaming on nvidia shield but with the htc one it wasn't to bad
When using Bluetooth (LG tone) for audio, I am having problems with audio/video syncing on some apps i.e. Netflix. The audio lags the video stream by sometimes half a sec which makes the whole experience terrible. I tried different Bluetooth headsets and the problem is still there. When I use wired headphones the problem is gone.
I have read a few threads and this is a problem that exists in a variety of android devices (phones, tablets of different models/manufacturers). It also manifests itself in other video apps.
I did not see any solution to this but maybe I am missing something.
I guess I am wondering If anyone could verify this with their tablet.
Also, can anyone shed some light as to why this is happening?
Does anyone know of a solution?
Thanks!
Bluetooth in general is... Laggy. That's why, for example, PS3 Sony wireless headphones aren't bluetooth. In the case that you're only listening to music it's ok but for watching a video I would only use wired headphones or non-bluetooth wireless ones. Bluetooth is still evolving, for the best connection and audio quality you want to be wired. Remember that the less steps on the chain the better, qualitywise and "lagwise".
Sent from my SM-P600 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
spky818 said:
When using Bluetooth (LG tone) for audio, I am having problems with audio/video syncing on some apps i.e. Netflix. The audio lags the video stream by sometimes half a sec which makes the whole experience terrible. I tried different Bluetooth headsets and the problem is still there. When I use wired headphones the problem is gone.
I have read a few threads and this is a problem that exists in a variety of android devices (phones, tablets of different models/manufacturers). It also manifests itself in other video apps.
I did not see any solution to this but maybe I am missing something.
I guess I am wondering If anyone could verify this with their tablet.
Also, can anyone shed some light as to why this is happening?
Does anyone know of a solution?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Use DICE player for local files as for Netflix I don't know . Dice player is free and perfect for any video files .
Yeah unfortunatly bluetooth is laggy on all devices. Lags on my S3 and Laptop and when I had an iPhone it was the same out of sync experiance. So in the end i just used it for listening to music and tbh they were great for that.
Will be class whenever they no longer have lag.. will happily pay some good money for some.
That's right but the problem aren't the headphones/devices, the problem is the bluetooth itself, the way it processes the data makes it laggy for real time stuff..
Sent from my SPH-D710BST using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Geordie Affy said:
Yeah unfortunatly bluetooth is laggy on all devices. Lags on my S3 and Laptop and when I had an iPhone it was the same out of sync experiance. So in the end i just used it for listening to music and tbh they were great for that.
Will be class whenever they no longer have lag.. will happily pay some good money for some.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same here. Thanks for your response. I understand that the bluetooth protocol is not meant for watching video but I don't understand why I can play the same movie on Netflix on my transformer prime tablet with the same bluetooth headset and have zero lag in sound. Same goes for my Nexus4 and yet I can't get it work properly on this tablet.
Sent from my SM-P600 using xda app-developers app
spky818 said:
Same here. Thanks for your response. I understand that the bluetooth protocol is not meant for watching video but I don't understand why I can play the same movie on Netflix on my transformer prime tablet with the same bluetooth headset and have zero lag in sound. Same goes for my Nexus4 and yet I can't get it work properly on this tablet.
Sent from my SM-P600 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
mmmm that is very very odd.
AHHHH I have just thought about this...What if you make the audio play a few milliseconds before the video or something maybe that could work....well it seems to work in my head haha, I dont have a Note 10.1 yet or even my Bluetooth headset with me otherwise I'd give it a go on my laptop.
Interesting... The note 2014 has bluetooth 4.0 which is the newest out there, hopefully a future firmware update will fix that...? (or maybe a Netflix update). Remember the note still has some flaws here and there. If you have NO lag in your transformer there should be a fix for that in ours... (more than no lag, synced correctly).
I know this isn't the answer you want, just my thoughts.
Sent from my SM-P600 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
No Bluetooth isn't laggy by itself, that's ridiculous. What you're experiencing is caused by interference. The main culprit is usually Wi-Fi
My Sony Bluetooth Headphones don't lag one bit on any device. But one time while I had it on, playing the PS3 (with the Bluetooth controller) and connected to the internet via Wifi, I was experiencing audio lag. I turned off the wi-fi and went hardwired and the lag disappeared.
Try listening to you headphones via bluetooth on this device. But shut off wifi and listen to something that's on the storage. Tell me if it lags. If it doesn't then you'll know it's the wifi that's interfering and maybe we can remedy the situation by switching what channel you router uses for it's wifi signal so it doesn't interfere with whatever channel the Bluetooth is using.
Don't automatically assume that Bluetooth is laggy by nature and that's that. That's nonsense.
---------- Post added at 10:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:32 PM ----------
Dusko75 said:
Bluetooth in general is... Laggy. That's why, for example, PS3 Sony wireless headphones aren't bluetooth. In the case that you're only listening to music it's ok but for watching a video I would only use wired headphones or non-bluetooth wireless ones. Bluetooth is still evolving, for the best connection and audio quality you want to be wired. Remember that the less steps on the chain the better, qualitywise and "lagwise".
Sent from my SM-P600 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Every Sony PS3 headset is Bluetooth. Where do you guys get this misinformation that they avoid it? The only way Bluetooth will lag is if your headphones are using an old, slow profile or you're trying to pass heavy content over Bluetooth (and I mean HEAVY high quality content) or your environment is littered with interference.
You think my Sony MDR1RB, a $400 pair of cans, is a laggy by nature? No. Who would pay $400 for that? Why would Sony even make that?
And the Sony MDR1RB isn't even Bluetooth 4.0 it's 2.1
vdc530 said:
No Bluetooth isn't laggy by itself, that's ridiculous. What you're experiencing is caused by interference. The main culprit is usually Wi-Fi
My Sony Bluetooth Headphones don't lag one bit on any device. But one time while I had it on, playing the PS3 (with the Bluetooth controller) and connected to the internet via Wifi, I was experiencing audio lag. I turned off the wi-fi and went hardwired and the lag disappeared.
Try listening to you headphones via bluetooth on this device. But shut off wifi and listen to something that's on the storage. Tell me if it lags. If it doesn't then you'll know it's the wifi that's interfering and maybe we can remedy the situation by switching what channel you router uses for it's wifi signal so it doesn't interfere with whatever channel the Bluetooth is using.
Don't automatically assume that Bluetooth is laggy by nature and that's that. That's nonsense.
---------- Post added at 10:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:32 PM ----------
Every Sony PS3 headset is Bluetooth. Where do you guys get this misinformation that they avoid it? The only way Bluetooth will lag is if your headphones are using an old, slow profile or you're trying to pass heavy content over Bluetooth (and I mean HEAVY high quality content) or your environment is littered with interference.
You think my Sony MDR1RB, a $400 pair of cans, is a laggy by nature? No. Who would pay $400 for that? Why would Sony even make that?
And the Sony MDR1RB isn't even Bluetooth 4.0 it's 2.1
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That was my initial thought. This is why I am using the 5GHz WiFi band since Bluetooth sits at 2.4GHz (same out of sync result). Also some streaming apps have no problem with audio sync i.e. Youtube, streaming from local NAS video and even streaming from Slingbox. I find it tough to swallow that it is a problem with the Bluetooth headphones since they actually work perfectly on my TF201 and Nexus4.
I think it is the actual implementation of the Bluetooth stack on the tablet that is at fault.
spky818 said:
That was my initial thought. This is why I am using the 5GHz WiFi band since Bluetooth sits at 2.4GHz (same out of sync result). Also some streaming apps have no problem with audio sync i.e. Youtube, streaming from local NAS video and even streaming from Slingbox. I find it tough to swallow that it is a problem with the Bluetooth headphones since they actually work perfectly on my TF201 and Nexus4.
I think it is the actual implementation of the Bluetooth stack on the tablet that is at fault.
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How you tried switching your wifi channel? There is an app on the Play store that scans your environment and shows you which channels are most congested. Search "wifi channel" and see which one looks best, I'm sure there are multiple ones.
As far as the implementation of the Bluetooth stack being at fault, if that was so, then wouldn't my Sony's lag as well? But the don't
vdc530 said:
How you tried switching your wifi channel? There is an app on the Play store that scans your environment and shows you which channels are most congested. Search "wifi channel" and see which one looks best, I'm sure there are multiple ones.
As far as the implementation of the Bluetooth stack being at fault, if that was so, then wouldn't my Sony's lag as well? But the don't
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Thanks for your response. This is actually really good info. Your Sony works with Netflix streaming with no lag issues on this Note??? If so maybe it is worth for me buying and trying one.
As far as the channel scanner, I used it and tried a few channels for my WiFi with no improvement. The higher end of the band i.e. ch11 is very clean. Anyway, I ended up going to 5GHz to at least ensure that there is no interference with the Bluetooth coming from my Wifi system.
Apologies on wrong info @spky818 but I could only go on what I have experienced with Bluetooth ... If what VDC530 says is true then I think I'll invest in some good quality BT headphones aswell...Hate wires haha.
Geordie Affy said:
Apologies on wrong info @spky818 but I could only go on what I have experienced with Bluetooth ... If what VDC530 says is true then I think I'll invest in some good quality BT headphones aswell...Hate wires haha.
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No worries. Thanks for taking the time to comment to begin with. Hate those wires too so if better headsets do the trick then I am all for it too.
Sent from my SM-P600 using xda app-developers app
Sorry but I'll have to disagree with vdc530, I'm not trying to be disrespectful or start a controversy here, but you are assuming that I'm assuming things. In my experience with bluetooth I found it most of the times laggy, that's why I said "in general", that doesn't mean "everything", (obviously because I don't have every single device/configuration). If you didn't have mayor lags so far or you found a way around it that's great and I mean it, and great you share it.
Not every Sony Headset/phones are bluetooth, http://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Stereo-Headset-Playstation-3/dp/B0053OLY9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1384458305&sr=8-1&keywords=sony+ps3+headphones , That's the one I was talking about, and I was assuming (I'm human) that Sony didn't make it bluetooth because it would overload the bluetooth on the PS3, that makes sense to me according to my bluetooth experience, and yes I can be wrong on that. Anyway at the end that's out of the main point here, so I don't want to expand on that.
I wouldn't say "nonsense" to something someone says, even if I know everything there is to be known about this or that matter, we can strongly disagree, explain our points and/or correct someone in a more polite way.
That's the beauty of a forum, I always make sure to specify if it's my knowledge, my thoughts or an assumption, i apologize if I didn't.
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I know it doesn't help with Netflix but I use BS player which has an audio offset option to synch the audio.
thomlh said:
I know it doesn't help with Netflix but I use BS player which has an audio offset option to synch the audio.
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Works good. Dice Player also allows for audio syncing. It's what I use, when I stream via bluetooth.
Sent from my SM-N900P
vdc530 said:
No Bluetooth isn't laggy by itself, that's ridiculous. What you're experiencing is caused by interference. The main culprit is usually Wi-Fi
My Sony Bluetooth Headphones don't lag one bit on any device. But one time while I had it on, playing the PS3 (with the Bluetooth controller) and connected to the internet via Wifi, I was experiencing audio lag. I turned off the wi-fi and went hardwired and the lag disappeared.
Try listening to you headphones via bluetooth on this device. But shut off wifi and listen to something that's on the storage. Tell me if it lags. If it doesn't then you'll know it's the wifi that's interfering and maybe we can remedy the situation by switching what channel you router uses for it's wifi signal so it doesn't interfere with whatever channel the Bluetooth is using.
Don't automatically assume that Bluetooth is laggy by nature and that's that. That's nonsense.
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spky818 said:
No worries. Thanks for taking the time to comment to begin with. Hate those wires too so if better headsets do the trick then I am all for it too.
Sent from my SM-P600 using xda app-developers app
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Update:
So I fished out my old Bluetooth Headset (Sony DR-BT22) that I bought back in 2009 for a mere £20 on a clearance sale, these headphones were the reason I said all Bluetooth lags since I tested it on a multiple different devices (S3, Iphone 3G and Laptop).....anyways so I decided to test them on the Note 10.1 just to test something I already know and that I need to invest in some expensive £70 ($110) Bluetooth headphones I have seen.
To my shock there is no lag whatsoever when using the DR-BT22 via Youtube or even while playing a video stored on the Note 10.1...AWESOME
I really have no idea why it works on my Note efficiently yet doesn't on other devices but I no longer care - I now have Wireless headphones for my Note 10.1 that I didn't even know worked haha. I always loved the foldaway design of these headphones and now I can actually utilise this on my travels.
Thanks vdc530 and spky818 I wouldn't have bothered trying my old ones if it wasn't for yous - saved myself some canny dosh :good:
I was watching BS player yesterday with wired headphones and I had lag in the audio caused by fast forwarding. The only way to get rid was to close the player and reload the movie after which it was perfect.
So is it Bluetooth or the player or a combination?
Geordie Affy said:
Update:
So I fished out my old Bluetooth Headset (Sony DR-T22) that I bought back in 2009 for a mere £20 on a clearance sale, these headphones were the reason I said all Bluetooth lags since I tested it on a multiple different devices (S3, Iphone 3G and Laptop).....anyways so I decided to test them on the Note 10.1 just to test something I already know and that I need to invest in some expensive £70 ($110) Bluetooth headphones I have seen.
To my shock there is no lag whatsoever when using the DR-T22 via Youtube or even while playing a video stored on the Note 10.1...AWESOME
I really have no idea why it works on my Note efficiently yet doesn't on other devices but I no longer care - I now have Wireless headphones for my Note 10.1 that I didn't even know worked haha. I always loved the foldaway design of these headphones and now I can actually utilise this on my travels.
Thanks vdc530 and spky818 I wouldn't have bothered trying my old ones if it wasn't for yous - saved myself some canny dosh :good:
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I am having audio lag with a nexus 10 I just received using bluetooth, and actually have an old pair of sony dr-bt22s in the shed, just got them out and charging, hope this works for me as well!
I tried looking up this device on xda, but nothing yet, so i thought i'd post here first.
since it uses an audio jack, do you guys think you could plug this into your cars aux port, and stream using your phone? or is it dependent on wifi only?
It is wifi, not bluetooth. Might work in guest mode. I'm very interested in the device, but want to use if for DLNA streaming from my home server if at all possible.
Hi,
It also has dual output connector: analog 3.5 jack and optical spdif... equal to Apple Airport Express.
Anybody see if it has native FLAC support? I haven't found an answer to that yet. This may be a device I just have to buy and try...
Note10.1Dude said:
Anybody see if it has native FLAC support? I haven't found an answer to that yet. This may be a device I just have to buy and try...
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Yeah I'm still waiting for an answer as to if it supports 320kbps for high quality streaming from spotify. That would be the main advantage of it over a bluetooth receiver.
I'd love to know if it does support that if anyone can find out!
FLAC is listed as supported media for google cast, so it SHOULD work.
https://developers.google.com/cast/docs/media
does anybody have any idea if Chromecast Audio would work as a car audio solution? I tried using a 1st Gen Chromecast but ran into the issue of the device's requiring an actual internet connection (not simply a wifi connection). My guess is that Chromecast Audio will similarly require an internet connection, but am wondering if there is a workaround?
mcnoggin said:
does anybody have any idea if Chromecast Audio would work as a car audio solution? I tried using a 1st Gen Chromecast but ran into the issue of the device's requiring an actual internet connection (not simply a wifi connection). My guess is that Chromecast Audio will similarly require an internet connection, but am wondering if there is a workaround?
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A lot of talk, no conclusion about this yet. Some suggest tethering the phone should work. I've got one on order, should know next week.
cool, let us know! =]
I am working on getting mine to work in my car today. I bought it yesterday and didn't have much time to mess with it. I had it working as I tethered through my phone and using my gfs phone to play music but I'm going to see if I can get it to work without tether.
Got it working but not perfect
So the main thing is IT WORKS!!
Its just buggy getting it started but after that it plays fine for the whole ride. Here is what I did (notice: must have working tether on your phone to get it to work)
I am running a nexus 6 with Chroma ROM. Also I'm using Spotify to play my music.
Steps I did to try to get it working.
1. I first went through the setup process on my gf galaxy s5 and updated the chromecast through my tether.
2. I hooked everything up in my car.
3. Turned on my phones WiFi and press the button on the Chromecast first and then connect to the WiFi that my Chromecast gives out.
4. Then open the Chromecast app and make sure it sees it. (Mine still says it needs to be setup even though it already is. Don't worry about that)
5. Open Spotify and in the devices area it should say nearby cast or something like that. Try to connect and it will ask for a pin. Ignore that and hit cancel.
6. Then turn on your hotspot on your phone. It will then show your Chromecast name correctly in Spotify and you can connect and play music. (Must leave your tether on)
All in all I got it working without having a separate wireless connection to connect both of them and have audio playing through my car audio. I tried it twice now and it has worked.
Also the Chromecast app will not show its connected even though you're playing music through it. I have a screenshot of it at the bottom.
Nice - I have a ground-loop issue in my car and can't charge my phone the same time it is plugged into the stereo - this might solve that. I'm using mine to add streaming to a bedroom system, but if I like it, I may replace the streamer box on the home stereo, which cuts out on FLAC from time to time.
UPDATE: you do not have to go through all those steps everytime. I've tested further and found that it is much easier.
After you already have it setup in your car, to connect do these steps:
1. Turn on your phones WiFi and connect to your Chromecast audio.
2.After a few seconds turn your hotspot on(do not turn off the WiFi at any time).
3. After a few seconds Spotify will see your device and work perfectly.
OK,
I have had my Chromecast Audio working for the last day. I am using it with BubbleUpNP to stream audio of of my DLNA server on my home network. Working well, more reliable than the Soundmate that I was using. Going to order a micro-toslink SPDIF cable to use my on DAC. It isn't a DLNA renderer, so it won't work with software that is expecting UPNP/DLNA, but BubbleUpNP is working well.
I got one of these today, and the Hardware is really nice. It has a decent DAC, good WiFi, Dual (Analogue, Optical) output, so all good on that front. It also plays 24bit 192K FLAC from Qobuz without trouble. You should however make sure to turn the "High Dynamic Range" setting on in the CC app!
However, I don't like the way it's handled. I'm used to running Logitech Media Server with am Odroid U3 as Server and a couple of Raspberry Pi units with Hifiberry DAC/Digi/Amp addon boards, and with that setup starting music in the mornings is easy. I turn on the power, and that's it, after the Pi has booted, the music starts playing, choosing the last Playlist or Webradio Station I used when I turned it off. No need to even touch my phone.
With Chromecast I have to jump through a lot of hoops to actually get it playing any music, and that's it's biggest failure IMHO. It won't automatically reconnect, it won't resume playing where it left off, it's basically just a better kind of BT dongle (using Wifi instead of BT).
This is a huge waste of potential! Sadly, I cannot use this neat piece of Hardware with Logitech Media Server, because it doesn't work as a DLNA Renderer, and LMS can't cast to Chromecast (since that only works from Android/iOS/Chrome OS).
So, while this COULD be great, it's currently badly underachieving. Maybe someone will work out a way to fix this by rooting CC and installing Squeezelite on it, of by some other means. There is always hope!
CommanderROR said:
I got one of these today, and the Hardware is really nice. It has a decent DAC, good WiFi, Dual (Analogue, Optical) output, so all good on that front. It also plays 24bit 192K FLAC from Qobuz without trouble. You should however make sure to turn the "High Dynamic Range" setting on in the CC app!
However, I don't like the way it's handled. I'm used to running Logitech Media Server with am Odroid U3 as Server and a couple of Raspberry Pi units with Hifiberry DAC/Digi/Amp addon boards, and with that setup starting music in the mornings is easy. I turn on the power, and that's it, after the Pi has booted, the music starts playing, choosing the last Playlist or Webradio Station I used when I turned it off. No need to even touch my phone.
With Chromecast I have to jump through a lot of hoops to actually get it playing any music, and that's it's biggest failure IMHO. It won't automatically reconnect, it won't resume playing where it left off, it's basically just a better kind of BT dongle (using Wifi instead of BT).
This is a huge waste of potential! Sadly, I cannot use this neat piece of Hardware with Logitech Media Server, because it doesn't work as a DLNA Renderer, and LMS can't cast to Chromecast (since that only works from Android/iOS/Chrome OS).
So, while this COULD be great, it's currently badly underachieving. Maybe someone will work out a way to fix this by rooting CC and installing Squeezelite on it, of by some other means. There is always hope!
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Click to collapse
You can use it with your DLNA server, but you need to manage the Chromecast with BubbleUpNP on your phone. Not perfect, but more stable than the renderer that I was using.
I got mine yesterday and I must say that I am very happy with it. One thing though, when I play music via YouTube (via casting screen/audio in the CC app) the sound volume is really low. It is much higher when I play music via Spotify. Is there a way to boost the output from the phone? I tried the hardware buttons of course
Workaround for the Volume being too low: Use a cast-native app like Spotify to crank up the Volume.
CommanderROR said:
it's basically just a better kind of BT dongle (using Wifi instead of BT).
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Yes, I see your point, but IMHO it's more than just a WiFi equivalent of a BT adaptor because, whilst you CAN stream from your device/locally with the right app, most "standard/consumer" use cases have the Chromecast streaming content direct from the Internet which is controlled by the app in your device. Your device doesn't do the streaming, saving power, you don't have to stay in range, etc. If I start steaming using Spotify as the app, for example, the Chromecast will continue playing my playlist even if I close Spotify on my device.
True. However, it still lacks a lot of features other multiroom systems offer. This little dingle has loads of potential, but Google will have to work hard to make it shine...
Since AutoMate (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.bitspice.automate) has been released in its first stable version I'm thinking about making my car 'smart'.
Until now I don't have any navigation system or else in my car, just a radio. But this app might replace the need to have to buy an Android Auto unit for about 500 bucks or even more.
The way I'm thinking about implementing it would be by using a 7" tablet, anything slightly bigger might be okay as well.
But I'm not sure about how exactly I should start.
My problems:
I think I need a special LTE data plan for the tablet (sharing the data plan of my phone via hotspot is not very intuitive)
Which tablet? (SIM card slot ruins many reasonable ones)
The small things: how to charge the tablet, how to fix it in my car, how to connect audio so my car plays its music
Another very important question: how do I get my phone's notifications on the tablet?
Is there anybody of you already running such a start up?
Or is there anybody planning to do so? What are your approaches?
I want to get this started and with your help I hope I will do so!
you really don't need a data plan for your car. Unless you drive more than 10 hours a day.
My Setup is easy. My cell phone is with me all the time and the internet sharing via Bluetooth is always enabled.
The Android will connect to it using a free tool named BT auto connect whenever the screen is turned on.
So you will have nothing to do but just power your tablet when you start the car.
It will automatically connect and share your phone's internet. It is energy friendly with BT with decent speed for most application except video streaming. (200KB max)
Nexus 7 2013 was the best option for this implementation, and the most common set up involved a paid kernel.
Search (USB ROM Nexus 7 on google). However, I found my tablet drain a lot of battery without reasons.
Hi. Have a JY mtcb head unit with Maylaysk rom and 4.4.4 android. Find it tricky to shift between the 2 phones i have conected in the bluetooth app on my head unit. First i have to mark the active phone and then deselect it. Then i can mark the next phone in the list and connest it. Is there a easy way to do this with just a short cut or a another app that will do it more easy?
I do not know a shortcut but maybe I can do even better
Buy an android compatible Bluetooth dongle and pair both (cost me $4 incl shipping from China), I did that with my OBD device and phone but see know issue why 2 phones shouldn`t work as well.
The only thing that could be a (small) problem is which it would dial a number with.
Just a suggestion of course
Tasker?
Scubacruiser said:
Tasker?
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What functions would you be using in Tasker?
I was just thinking that Tasker could possibly be used to automate bluetooth switching. I'm not sure HOW to set it up though.
I use the app Trigger. I use it to turn on my phone's Hotspot when it connects to my headunits Bluetooth connection and when it disconnects it turns off the Hotspot and turn on my wifi. It is very easy to use compared to Tasker. Tasker is good as it has a lot of functions but I don't quite know how to use it yet.
bsavoir22 said:
I use the app Trigger. I use it to turn on my phone's Hotspot when it connects to my headunits Bluetooth connection and when it disconnects it turns off the Hotspot and turn on my wifi. It is very easy to use compared to Tasker. Tasker is good as it has a lot of functions but I don't quite know how to use it yet.
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I was using Tasker for a few of these things, but actually the Smart Connect on my phone does all these things well.
I think what this thread is about though, which I would like to know two is that if you have two phones connected to the head unit, it connects to one, but even though the other is stored as a bluetooth connection it will only autoconnect to the last connected phone. This means you have to manually hit the connect on the head unit for it to work if you weren't the last one in the car!
It would be better if you could tell the head unit to have a "preference" to connect to phone A over phone B, but if phone A isn't present, then connect to phone B.
Well the headunit is very limited, but if you are very knowledgeable in Tasker you set something like that up on the headunit. I think trigger can let it do the same thing by using restrictions,
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